EP3479721A1 - Verfahren zum fassen eines steins - Google Patents

Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3479721A1
EP3479721A1 EP17200365.9A EP17200365A EP3479721A1 EP 3479721 A1 EP3479721 A1 EP 3479721A1 EP 17200365 A EP17200365 A EP 17200365A EP 3479721 A1 EP3479721 A1 EP 3479721A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
girdle
adhesive layer
melt adhesive
crimping
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP17200365.9A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3479721B1 (de
Inventor
Stewes Bourban
Pascal Grossenbacher
Jean-Claude Martin
Vladislav Spassov
Cécile BARRON
Lionel BLASER
Yann Caloz
Cyrille GERNEZ
Stéphane Lauper
Ahmad Odeh
Simon Springer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Original Assignee
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP17200365.9A priority Critical patent/EP3479721B1/de
Priority to US16/141,370 priority patent/US10736389B2/en
Priority to JP2018201537A priority patent/JP6666977B2/ja
Priority to CN201811319395.6A priority patent/CN109744667B/zh
Publication of EP3479721A1 publication Critical patent/EP3479721A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3479721B1 publication Critical patent/EP3479721B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/003—3D structures, e.g. superposed patterned layers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • C25D5/02—Electroplating of selected surface areas
    • C25D5/022—Electroplating of selected surface areas using masking means
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a mounting bracket, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a round and a cylinder head.
  • the invention also relates to a crimping method on an element of a timepiece or jewelery of a stone and its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
  • the present invention aims to overcome this disadvantage by proposing a method of crimping stones to overcome the inevitable dimensional changes encountered when natural stones, such as diamonds, are used.
  • the positioning of the stones by means of the hot-melt adhesive layer according to the method of the invention avoids the need to create prior housing appropriately sized to receive the stones.
  • the method according to the invention consequently makes it possible to overcome the dimensional variations of the stones.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone on an element of a timepiece or jewelery including the mounting of the stone and its fixing support obtained according to the method as defined above on a kitten then reported on the timepiece or jewelery element or directly on the timepiece or jewelery element.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelery element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained by the assembly method as defined above.
  • the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondiste 5 and a cylinder head 6.
  • a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, whose dimensions may vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.
  • the first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising a hot-melt adhesive layer 10.
  • the substrate 8 is in the form of a plate, and is based on glass, ceramic, polymer, metal, silicon, quartz or any other support with a suitable flat surface.
  • the substrate 8 is a glass plate.
  • the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is preferably a hot-water-soluble glue layer or a hot-melt solvent, such as Crystalbond TM, Wafer-Mount TM glue or any other suitable similar mounting product.
  • the second step b) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in positioning the stone 1 on the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 of the substrate 8.
  • the stone 1 is positioned so that its table 3 is in contact with the adhesive layer 10, as shown in FIG. figure 1 .
  • Several stones can be positioned on the substrate. The positioning of the stones may correspond to the desired final shape, for example a specific pattern.
  • the third step c) of the assembly process of the invention consists in heating the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 so that it is at least sufficiently softened to be able to drive the stones 1 therein.
  • the fourth step d) of the assembly process of the invention consists in exerting a pressure on the stone 1 to be able to drive, according to the variant represented here, only a portion of the crown 4 of the stone 1 in the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 sufficiently softened, so that the remainder of the crown 4, the girdle 5 and the yoke 6 remain in the open air, as shown in FIG. figure 2 .
  • the stone 1 is depressed until its table 3 is in contact with the substrate 8, which ensures the flatness of the table 3.
  • Step b) can advantageously be implemented after step c) in particular when the stone 1 is positioned so that it is its cylinder head 6 which is partially embedded in the sufficiently softened hot melt adhesive layer leaving to the free air the rest of the stone, so that the rest of the breech 6, the rondiste 5 and the crown 4 remain in the open air.
  • the height of the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is chosen so that the ring 4 (or the yoke 6, according to the variant embodiment) is substantially completely embedded in the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 and comes into contact with the substrate 8, only a part the crown 4 (or the breech 6) thin e (see Figure 2 ) this part will comprise the zone 4a of the crown 4 (or the zone 6a of the cylinder head 6) contiguous to the girdle 5, as defined below.
  • the assembly obtained is allowed to cool so that the adhesive layer 10 solidifies and holds the stone 1 on the substrate 8 without having to form adequate housing in said substrate.
  • step e) by positioning above the adhesive layer 10 (cooled and solidified) of a crimping sheet 12 cut around the stone 1 so as to form between the edge 14 of the crimping sheet 12 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 16 at least at the level of the rounder 5, an area 4a of the crown 4 and an area 6b of the cylinder head 6 , said zones 4a and 6a being contiguous to the girdle 5.
  • the crimping sheet 12 is made of a conductive material, for example in a metal material selected from the group consisting of nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
  • a metal material selected from the group consisting of nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
  • Step e) further comprises placing a lower insulating layer 18 between the adhesive layer 10 and the crimping sheet 12 and placing an upper insulating layer 20 on the free surface of the sheet.
  • crimping 12 as shown in figure 3 .
  • the insulating layers 18 and 20 are cut around the stone and are superimposed with the crimping sheet 12. They may be for example in the form of a sheet of organic material, such as polymers, resins, lacquers, etc. or are obtained for example by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition), CVD (Chemical Layer Deposition) or other similar methods, dielectric thin layers of SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , TiO 2 , AlN, If 3 N 4 , etc.
  • PVD Physical Vapor Deposition
  • ALD Atomic Layer Deposition
  • CVD Chemical Layer Deposition
  • step f) of the method of the invention consists in depositing by galvanic growth in said peripheral free space 16, from the wafer 14 of the crimping sheet 12, a metal layer 22 at least at the level of the girdle 5 and the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the girdle 5 so as to trap the said girdle 5 in the said metal layer 22, as shown in FIG. figure 4 .
  • the stone 1 is now integral with the crimping sheet 12, the metal layer 22 in the continuity of the crimping sheet 12 forming therewith said fixing support 2.
  • the zone 6a of the yoke 6 contiguous to the girdle 5 and the zone 4a of the ring 4 contiguous to the girdle 5 extend only immediately on either side of the girdle 5, to a thickness less than the thickness e of the portion of the ring left in the open air, so as to form said metal layer 22 between the stone 1 and the crimping sheet, only substantially around the girdle, that is to say at the level of the girdle 5 and only immediately on either side of said rondiste 5.
  • the metal layer 22 is preferably made of a material selected from the group consisting of nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.
  • the electroforming conditions in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electro-deposited according to the techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. . for example Di Bari GA "electroforming” Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Company Inc., NY USA 1984 ).
  • step g) consists in releasing the assembled stone 1 on its fixing support 2 of the substrate 8.
  • This step g) is carried out for example by dissolving the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 in an organic solvent.
  • the insulating layers are removed by mechanical peeling, dissolution in organic solvents or etching by chemical agents.
  • a fixing support is obtained in the form of a plate comprising several stones 1 assembled to said plate, the stones being able to form a pattern.
  • the dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions of the crimping sheet 12.
  • the thickness of the crimping sheet 12 is preferably chosen so that the metal layer 22 is deposited only substantially at the level of the crimping sheet 12.
  • rounder 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and the yoke 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the girdle 5 as described above, so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially around the Round 5 only, as shown by the figure 5 .
  • the support 2 attaches slightly over the areas 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and the breech 6 adjacent to the girdle 5, but most of the crown 4 and the yoke 6 remains free.
  • the assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by allowing the stones to be assembled on their fixing support without first having to form different housings of appropriate dimensions to receive stones.
  • the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping method according to the invention.
  • Said method of crimping said stone on an element of a timepiece or jewelery comprises the mounting of the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten . The kitten is then returned to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece element or jewelry.
  • the mounting of the mounting bracket 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelery element can be achieved by clipping, driving, crimping, etc.
  • the timepiece or jewelery element may be for example a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a caseband, a horn of the box, a crown, a needle, an index, a link or other bracelet element , an element of a pendant, a ring, a necklace, etc., any internal or external cladding element, or any timepiece / jewelery element that can be set.
EP17200365.9A 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Active EP3479721B1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
US16/141,370 US10736389B2 (en) 2017-11-07 2018-09-25 Method for setting a stone
JP2018201537A JP6666977B2 (ja) 2017-11-07 2018-10-26 石をセッティングする方法
CN201811319395.6A CN109744667B (zh) 2017-11-07 2018-11-07 用于镶嵌石材的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3479721A1 true EP3479721A1 (de) 2019-05-08
EP3479721B1 EP3479721B1 (de) 2020-05-13

Family

ID=60269706

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP17200365.9A Active EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US10736389B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3479721B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6666977B2 (de)
CN (1) CN109744667B (de)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11169265B2 (en) 2018-05-03 2021-11-09 Fujifilm Sonosite, Inc. Dual frequency ultrasound transducer
CN110281683B (zh) * 2019-07-18 2021-12-21 广州番禺职业技术学院 一种陶瓷镶嵌金属的工艺饰品制作方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0620987A1 (de) * 1993-04-22 1994-10-26 Firma Franz Breuning Schmucksteinbefestigung
FR2717051A1 (fr) * 1994-03-11 1995-09-15 Pgcm Conception Procédé de sertissage de pièces de bijouterie réalisées par électroformage et pièces ainsi obtenues.
US6125516A (en) * 1997-07-18 2000-10-03 D. Swarovski & Co. Method of producing an item of hollow jewelry

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IT1247804B (it) * 1991-01-16 1995-01-02 Aldo Arata Struttura di castone per il fissaggio di pietre preziose e simili, su gioielli in genere
DE4104337A1 (de) * 1991-02-13 1992-10-15 Swarovski & Co Dekorelement mit mehreren schmucksteinen und verfahren zu dessen herstellung
KR950024719A (ko) * 1994-02-14 1995-09-15 김평수 반귀석에 보석을 세팅하는 방법
JPH07289323A (ja) * 1994-04-27 1995-11-07 Inaho:Kk 中空貴金属製品への石留め方法
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0620987A1 (de) * 1993-04-22 1994-10-26 Firma Franz Breuning Schmucksteinbefestigung
FR2717051A1 (fr) * 1994-03-11 1995-09-15 Pgcm Conception Procédé de sertissage de pièces de bijouterie réalisées par électroformage et pièces ainsi obtenues.
US6125516A (en) * 1997-07-18 2000-10-03 D. Swarovski & Co. Method of producing an item of hollow jewelry

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Title
DI BARI G.A.: "Electroplating Engineering Handbook", 1984, VAN NOSTRAND REINHOLD COMPAGNY INC., article "electroforming"

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20190133271A1 (en) 2019-05-09
JP6666977B2 (ja) 2020-03-18
US10736389B2 (en) 2020-08-11
EP3479721B1 (de) 2020-05-13
CN109744667B (zh) 2021-06-29
CN109744667A (zh) 2019-05-14
JP2019084350A (ja) 2019-06-06

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