EP2327323A1 - Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung - Google Patents

Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2327323A1
EP2327323A1 EP09176994A EP09176994A EP2327323A1 EP 2327323 A1 EP2327323 A1 EP 2327323A1 EP 09176994 A EP09176994 A EP 09176994A EP 09176994 A EP09176994 A EP 09176994A EP 2327323 A1 EP2327323 A1 EP 2327323A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
single base
yokes
layer
decoration piece
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09176994A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Pascal Grossenbacher
Julien Meier
Michel Caillaud
Stéphane Lauper
Arlette-Elsa Emch
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Dress Your Body AG
Original Assignee
Dress Your Body AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dress Your Body AG filed Critical Dress Your Body AG
Priority to EP09176994A priority Critical patent/EP2327323A1/de
Priority to RU2012126149/12A priority patent/RU2546501C2/ru
Priority to PCT/EP2010/067135 priority patent/WO2011064092A1/fr
Priority to JP2012540352A priority patent/JP5379311B2/ja
Priority to PT107766743T priority patent/PT2503914E/pt
Priority to US13/503,757 priority patent/US9345294B2/en
Priority to EP10776674.3A priority patent/EP2503914B1/de
Priority to CN201080052948.1A priority patent/CN102665478B/zh
Priority to ES10776674.3T priority patent/ES2480280T3/es
Publication of EP2327323A1 publication Critical patent/EP2327323A1/de
Priority to HK13102988.5A priority patent/HK1175673A1/xx
Priority to US14/872,372 priority patent/US9596910B2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece including a jewelery or jewelery item forming a paved stone suitable for decorating a surface.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the aforementioned drawbacks proposing an industrial manufacturing process for obtaining a homogeneous assembly of stones, a diversity of shape, improved accuracy and fixing of better quality at lower cost.
  • the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising several stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to one another, characterized in that the fixing device comprises a single base making it possible to attach all stones relative to each other by their breech and that the stone layers are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked.
  • the invention also relates to an article of jewelry or a jewelery and a timepiece characterized in that they include, reported, a decorative piece according to one of the previous variants.
  • the invention relates to generally annotated decoration pieces 1, 3 and 5 which can be reported, in particular, on jewelery and jewelery articles and timepieces (particularly in terms of the dial and the cladding).
  • these decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 can not be limited to the above applications.
  • the decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 could also be reported on other objects such as, for example, glasses.
  • the invention relates to an attachment device 7, 7 'of the invisible crimped type for attaching several precious stones 2 semiprecious or synthetic by their cylinder head 4 so that the laminate 6 stones 2 (also called rondistes) mounted side by side so that the tables 8 of the stones 2 are substantially coplanar.
  • the fixing device 7, 7 ' comprises a single base 9, 9' attaching the stones 2 to each other very precisely.
  • the material of the base 9, 9 ' is made as and as and not removed and then deformed as and when.
  • the single base 9, 9 ' which is preferably mainly electrodeposited, thus allows to perfectly cover the cylinder heads 4 of the stones 2 with a minimum of mechanical stresses transmitted to the stones.
  • the base 9, 9 ' is natively corresponding in shape to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 whatever the dispersions thereof. This is made possible by the use of a manufacturing method 21 according to the invention which will be explained hereinafter and which comprises in particular a step 29 of electroplating.
  • the single base 9, 9 'thus comprises at least two layers 11, 11' and 13, 13 '.
  • the respective thicknesses of the layers 11, 11 'and 13, 13' are not on the same scale for better understanding. Indeed, the first layer 11, 11 'is actually much weaker than the thickness shown in FIGS. figures 5 , 7, 8, 9 and very small compared to the thickness of the second layer 13, 13 '.
  • the first layer 11, 11 ' is intended to adhere to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 but also to provide an electrically conductive layer capable of serving as a germination surface of the second layer 13, 13' which will be electrodeposited. If the first layer 11, 11 'has a preponderant role with respect to the final aesthetics of the decorative part 1, 3, 5, the second layer 13, 13' is mainly used to its mechanical characteristics, that is to say, aims to improve the strength of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
  • the first layer 11, 11 ' comprises a high reflection material to be used as a reflection layer of ambient light. It is understood that such a layer 11, 11 'thus makes it possible not to reduce too much the brightness of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
  • the first layer 11, 11 ' may comprise gold and / or silver and / or platinum and / or palladium and / or iridium and / or copper and / or titanium and / or aluminum and / or nickel and / or tin and / or zinc.
  • the second layer 13, 13 ' which is, as explained above, much thicker than the first layer 11, 11', can take from the latter the same materials or their alloys.
  • a protective layer such as silicon nitride to a thickness of a few microns, will be used in recovery to avoid tarnishing due to oxidation of money.
  • the fastening device 7 comprises a single base 9, the two layers 11, 13 of which cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2. This first embodiment allows a maximum brightness and / or a very homogeneous aesthetic of the decoration part 1 , 3, 5.
  • the fixing device 7 ' has a single base 9' whose two layers 11 ', 13' do not cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
  • the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 stones 2.
  • This second embodiment improves the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the room of decoration 1, 3, 5. It also makes it possible not to have to open the single base mechanically, for example, using a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones.
  • the decorative piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed, even in more or less complex shapes, such as, for example, a waveform 3 illustrated in FIG. figure 11 , a form 5 without particular symmetry illustrated in the figure 12 or a completely symmetrical form 1 illustrated in FIG. figure 10 , can, therefore, be easily reported on a final product through its single base 9, 9 '.
  • each of the yokes 4 of the stones 2 comprises at least one groove 10. Because the base 9, 9' corresponds perfectly to the shape of the the yoke 4 of the stones 2, it is understood that the base 9, 9 'then forms hooks which hold each stone 2 more firmly by its yoke 4.
  • each stone 2 has two grooves 10 on two opposite facets of its yoke 4.
  • each groove may also form a peripheral groove on each yoke 4 to maximize the mechanical fastening force of the fastener 7, 7 '.
  • the method 21 consists in providing stones 2 whose laminates 6 allow them to be mounted edge to edge, for example to obtain the variants of embodiments of the figures 10 , 11 and 12 , that is to say, a homogeneous plan of stones 2.
  • a second step 25 the stones 2 are secured one after the other on a support 12.
  • the method 21 comprising an electroplating step 29
  • the support 12 comprises a electrically insulating material such as polypropylene or any other material compatible with the method 21.
  • the face 15 where are reported stones 2 must have a good flatness.
  • each stone 2 is secured to the face 15 of the support 12 by gluing its table 8 by means of a glue of the cyanoacrylate type.
  • glue of the cyanoacrylate type.
  • the figures 3 and 4 represent a focused magnification on the laminates 6 of the stones 2 according to two alternatives of the invention explained above. It is thus immediately understood that the size accuracy of the 6 or rondist layers of the stones 2 is of great importance. Indeed, according to the invention the laminates 6 must be mounted edge to edge to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2.
  • the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
  • the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
  • the chemical interactions between the materials ensure the fixing of the stones.
  • Step 24 shown in broken lines at the figure 13 is intended to engrave at least one groove 10 in at least a portion of the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
  • the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as illustrated to the Figures 1 and 5 .
  • the grooves 10 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.
  • the support 12 may also include a template 14 of dedicated form to help start the stone plan 2.
  • This template 14 can thus form a square like the figure 1 to form a symmetrical decoration piece 1 or a curved body to form a decoration piece 3 in wave.
  • step 25 we thus obtain a block of stones 2 secured by their table 8 on the face 15 of the support 12.
  • the method 21 continues with a step 27 intended to form the first layer 11, 11 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 5 .
  • Figures 8 and 9 can also be combined to adapt the aesthetics of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
  • Step 27 can be performed according to several different methods.
  • physical vapor deposition or chemical metallization deposition is preferred.
  • a bonding layer, interposed between the stone surface and the first layer 11, 11 'of a few nanometers, for example chromium or titanium may be used to improve the adherence while remaining substantially invisible.
  • a coating made electrically conductive coating by means of, for example, silver powder (grains between 1 and 10 microns) in addition to or in replacement of the above deposits is also possible. Indeed, if the precision of the laminates 6 is not perfectly controlled, it may be preferable to deposit a conductive varnish at the level of the layers 6 in order to guarantee homogeneous growth during the next step 29.
  • step 27 may be followed by step 28 in dashed lines and then step 29 or directly from step 29.
  • the method 21 can directly go to step 29 to form a single base 9, 9 'which will form the body of the final element by electrically connecting the layer 11, 11'.
  • a frame 16 is reported during step 28 in order to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step 29 above said stone yokes 2.
  • the frame 16 can also be used to form a single base 9, 9 'which will form a blank of the final element. If the frame 16 is used, that is to say if the step 28 is performed, the frame 16 will preferably comprise an electrically conductive track 17 for connecting the first layer 11, 11 '.
  • the walls of the frame 16 surrounding the stones 2 are preferably electrically conductive.
  • the method 21 is continued by the step 29 of electroplating the second layer 13, 13 'from the first layer 11, 11' in order to finish the production of the single base 9, 9 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 7 .
  • the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed is separated from the support 12 and, if it is used, from the frame 16.
  • a machining and / or polishing step may be carried out in order to modify the shape of the single base 9, 9 ', either to form the final element, either to adapt the shape in order to be related to the final element.
  • the method 21 allows a wide variety of decorative pieces such as, for example, those of Figures 10 to 12 with paved geometries with various stone shapes without its implementation is more difficult which allows its application to all kinds of precious stones, semi-precious or synthetic cheaply.
  • the yokes 4 may be all or partially perforated or not without retouching steps are made necessary. It is also remarkable, according to the invention, that the stones 2 may be more or less high and / or of different shapes and / or distributed more or less symmetrically and that the heights, angles and depths of the grooves 10 are more or smaller, without the complexity of the process 21 being increased. Finally, according to the invention, the manufacturing conditions are improved by working directly by the breech 4 stones 2 while current methods do not allow and require continually return the book to verify the proper assembly in the stones 2.
  • This feature is particularly advantageous in after-sales operations requiring the replacement of a single stone or part of the stones.
  • remove a stone is very difficult and induces a great risk of scratching, cracking or crimping stones close to the one to be replaced.
  • advantageously according to the invention it is possible to spare the adjacent stones, remove, for example chemically, the metal of the stone to be removed and then pick a new stone in place of the old and reform the entirety of the unique base by significantly reducing the risk of scratching, cracking or creasing of other pavement stones.
  • Another advantage of the manufacturing method 21 according to the invention relates to saving time and, incidentally, cost. Indeed, not only the manufacturing process 21 is much shorter by compared to a manual embodiment but, in addition, the steps 27 and / or 29 of several decoration pieces 1, 3, 5 can be made at the same time from several supports 12 or from a single support 12.
  • the face 15 of the support 12 is not flat to allow the realization of a decorating part 1, 3, 5 whose tables 8 stones 2 are not coplanar.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
EP09176994A 2009-11-25 2009-11-25 Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung Withdrawn EP2327323A1 (de)

Priority Applications (11)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP09176994A EP2327323A1 (de) 2009-11-25 2009-11-25 Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung
US13/503,757 US9345294B2 (en) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Invisible set decorative part
PCT/EP2010/067135 WO2011064092A1 (fr) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Pièce de décoration serti invisible
JP2012540352A JP5379311B2 (ja) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 インビジブル・セッティングによる装飾用部品
PT107766743T PT2503914E (pt) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Peça decorativa de conjunto invisível
RU2012126149/12A RU2546501C2 (ru) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Декоративный элемент в невидимой оправе
EP10776674.3A EP2503914B1 (de) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer fassung
CN201080052948.1A CN102665478B (zh) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 隐形镶嵌的装饰件
ES10776674.3T ES2480280T3 (es) 2009-11-25 2010-11-09 Pieza decorativa de engaste invisible
HK13102988.5A HK1175673A1 (en) 2009-11-25 2013-03-11 Invisible set decorative part
US14/872,372 US9596910B2 (en) 2009-11-25 2015-10-01 Invisible set decorative part

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP09176994A EP2327323A1 (de) 2009-11-25 2009-11-25 Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2327323A1 true EP2327323A1 (de) 2011-06-01

Family

ID=42078973

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09176994A Withdrawn EP2327323A1 (de) 2009-11-25 2009-11-25 Schmuckartikel mit unsichtbarer Fassung

Country Status (1)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2327323A1 (de)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014122296A1 (fr) 2013-02-08 2014-08-14 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Pièce d'horlogerie, et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce
EP2796065A1 (de) 2013-04-26 2014-10-29 Omega SA Unsichtbares eingepresstes Dekorteil
RU2653992C2 (ru) * 2012-12-21 2018-05-15 Омега Са Декоративная деталь со скрытой закрепкой
US10165835B2 (en) * 2012-08-20 2019-01-01 Forever Mount, LLC Brazed joint for attachment of gemstones to each other and/or a metallic mount

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB798080A (en) * 1954-09-29 1958-07-16 Simili Fabrik Feiner Schleifpr Imitation gems consisting of glass, transparent plastics or the like
US6112552A (en) * 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
US20040172969A1 (en) * 2003-03-05 2004-09-09 Richard Buchberger Gem formation
US20080066310A1 (en) * 2006-09-05 2008-03-20 Siu Chung Pang Setting stones in the surface of electroformed piece

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB798080A (en) * 1954-09-29 1958-07-16 Simili Fabrik Feiner Schleifpr Imitation gems consisting of glass, transparent plastics or the like
US6112552A (en) * 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
US20040172969A1 (en) * 2003-03-05 2004-09-09 Richard Buchberger Gem formation
US20080066310A1 (en) * 2006-09-05 2008-03-20 Siu Chung Pang Setting stones in the surface of electroformed piece

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10165835B2 (en) * 2012-08-20 2019-01-01 Forever Mount, LLC Brazed joint for attachment of gemstones to each other and/or a metallic mount
RU2653992C2 (ru) * 2012-12-21 2018-05-15 Омега Са Декоративная деталь со скрытой закрепкой
CN108402614A (zh) * 2012-12-21 2018-08-17 奥米加股份有限公司 制造装饰件的方法
US10588386B2 (en) 2012-12-21 2020-03-17 Omega S.A. Decorative piece with invisible setting
WO2014122296A1 (fr) 2013-02-08 2014-08-14 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Pièce d'horlogerie, et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce
CH707581A1 (fr) * 2013-02-08 2014-08-15 Horlogers Dior Sa Atel Pièce d'horlogerie, et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce.
US9820538B2 (en) 2013-02-08 2017-11-21 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Timepiece part, and method for producing such a timepiece part
EP2796065A1 (de) 2013-04-26 2014-10-29 Omega SA Unsichtbares eingepresstes Dekorteil

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