EP3479720B1 - Verfahren zum fassen eines steins - Google Patents

Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3479720B1
EP3479720B1 EP17200360.0A EP17200360A EP3479720B1 EP 3479720 B1 EP3479720 B1 EP 3479720B1 EP 17200360 A EP17200360 A EP 17200360A EP 3479720 B1 EP3479720 B1 EP 3479720B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
girdle
substrate
cavity
pavilion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP17200360.0A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3479720A1 (de
Inventor
Stewes Bourban
Pascal Grossenbacher
Jean-Claude Martin
Vladislav Spassov
Cécile BARRON
Lionel BLASER
Yann Caloz
Cyrille GERNEZ
Stéphane Lauper
Ahmad Odeh
Simon Springer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
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Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP17200360.0A priority Critical patent/EP3479720B1/de
Priority to US16/140,852 priority patent/US10743625B2/en
Priority to JP2018189738A priority patent/JP6703582B2/ja
Priority to CN201811255717.5A priority patent/CN109744668B/zh
Publication of EP3479720A1 publication Critical patent/EP3479720A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3479720B1 publication Critical patent/EP3479720B1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/003—3D structures, e.g. superposed patterned layers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • C25D5/02—Electroplating of selected surface areas
    • C25D5/022—Electroplating of selected surface areas using masking means
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
  • the method consists of providing a wax mandrel with a tubular base, depositing a conductive coating on the surface of the mandrel, depositing the stone in the tubular base, depositing a metal by electroforming on the conductive coating layer by layer, to fill the gap between the stone and the seat with this metal to keep the stone in position and to remove the mandrel and the conductive coating.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to choose the dimensions of the housing, and more particularly the dimensions of the through hole, so as to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the mounting of the stone and its fixing support obtained according to the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.
  • the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a fixing support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondist 5 and a cylinder head 6.
  • a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, the dimensions of which can vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.
  • the first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising at least one housing 10 in which said stone 1, said housing 10 is positioned being arranged to form between the substrate 8 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 12 at least around the rounder 5 of stone 1, the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 having a conductive surface 16.
  • “Around the rounder” means that the the peripheral free space 12 is situated at least at the level of the rondist 5 and of zones 4a and 6a of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 respectively contiguous with the rondiste 5.
  • the dimensions of the through hole 18, in the plane of the substrate 8, are of dimensions smaller than the dimensions (generally called “diameter") of the rondist 5 of the stone 1 and the dimensions of the cavity 22, in the plane of the substrate 8, are greater than the diameter of the rondist 5 of the stone 1. Consequently, the cavity 22 has dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, greater than the dimensions of the through hole 18, the cavity 22 then comprising a central opening 24 corresponding to the hole through 18, and a peripheral zone comprising side walls 26 of resin and a bottom, that is to say the bottom 14 occupied by the conductive layer 16 of the substrate 8 around the through hole 18.
  • the housing 10 therefore has a section T-shaped in the plane perpendicular to the substrate 8, as shown in the figure 2 .
  • step e) comprises the use of a negative photosensitive resin 20, for example an SU8 resin, the UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer 20 through a mask corresponding to the outline of the desired mounting support, and removing the non-irradiated portion of the photosensitive resin layer 20 so as to obtain the cavity 22 whose outline corresponds to the outline of said desired mounting support.
  • a negative photosensitive resin 20 for example an SU8 resin
  • UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer 20 through a mask corresponding to the outline of the desired mounting support
  • removing the non-irradiated portion of the photosensitive resin layer 20 so as to obtain the cavity 22 whose outline corresponds to the outline of said desired mounting support.
  • step a) of the assembly method according to the invention continues with the placing of a stone 1 in each of the housings 10 formed.
  • the dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 forming the housing 10 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is partially housed in the through hole 18 to rest on the periphery of the central opening 24 of the cavity 22 , the rest of the breech 6 above the through hole 18 defining the zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, and so that the rest of the stone 1 between said zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5 and at least up to the level of zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 is housed in the cavity 22 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22, that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12.
  • the dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is almost entirely housed in the through hole 18 so that the zone 6a of cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 extends only immediately below the rondist 5, and the zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 extends only immediately above the rondiste 5 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22 , that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12 only substantially around the traffic light 5, that is to say at the traffic light 5 and only immediately on either side said rondist 5, as shown in the figure 3 .
  • the housing 10, and more particularly the cavity 22 has a height such that the table 3 of the stone 1 protrudes from said housing 10, and more particularly of the cavity 22, as shown in the figure 3 .
  • the thickness of the resin layer 20 is chosen for this purpose.
  • the only precise dimension of the stone that can be ensured being the "diameter" of the rondist 5 and its height, it is possible that the installation of the stone 1 is not done correctly, and does not allow to ensure a sufficient flatness from table 3 of stone 1.
  • the assembly method according to the invention may comprise, between steps a) and b), a step f) of correcting the orientation of the stone.
  • this step f) may include bringing the table 3 of the stone 1 into contact with a repositioning device 28 arranged to reposition the stone 1 in its housing 10.
  • a repositioning device 28 comprises for example a rigid plate 30 coated a deformable mat or foam 32 making it possible to compensate for the heights of the stones 1.
  • the repositioning device 28 is arranged so that the mat or foam 32 is brought into contact with the tables 3 of the stones positioned in their respective housings 10 on the substrate 8 so as to correct the orientation of said stones and to ensure the flatness of the tables 3 of the stones 1.
  • Stage g) consists, for example, of introducing, by the free entry of the through hole 18, a retaining adhesive 34 around the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 making it possible to fix the stone 1 in the housing 10.
  • a sufficiently viscous holding glue which will not fill the finest interstices.
  • the indium layer has the advantage of being deformed during the step f) of correcting the orientation of the stones by leveling the tables 3 and then being able to seal at the central opening 24 of the cavity 22.
  • Stage g) is followed by a step h) of removal of the repositioning device 28 in order to be able to continue implementing the assembly process of the invention.
  • step b) consists of depositing galvanically in said peripheral free space 12, from the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 occupied by the conductive layer 16, a metal layer 36 at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively.
  • the metal layer 36 deposited in step b) is preferably made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.
  • the electroforming conditions in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electrodeposited according to techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. for example Di Bari GA "electroforming” Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., NY USA 1984 ).
  • the dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, of the through hole 18 and of the cavity 22, and by the height of the metal layer 36 deposited according to the galvanic deposition parameters.
  • these parameters are chosen so that the metal layer 36 is deposited only substantially at the level of the rondist 5 and of the zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the rondist 5 so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially around the rondist 5 only, as shown in the figure 8 .
  • the fixing support 2 projects slightly over the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, but most of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 remain free.
  • step c) consists in releasing the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 from the substrate 8.
  • the silicon substrate 8 and the holding adhesive 34 are eliminated by dissolution.
  • the assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by providing in the substrate 8 through holes 18 of different diameters, adapted to the dimensions of said stones 1.
  • FIGS. 7a to 7c show some variants of stones 1 assembled to their fixing support 2 which can be obtained by using different photolithographic exposure masks corresponding to the outline of the desired fixing support.
  • the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping process according to the invention.
  • Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the stone 1 and of its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten 38 as shown in the figure 8 .
  • the kitten 38 is then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece or jewelry element.
  • the mounting of the fixing support 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelry element can be carried out by clipping, chasing, crimping, bonding, etc.
  • the timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., or any element of watchmaking / jewelry decor that can be set.

Claims (12)

  1. Verfahren zum Einsetzen eines Steins (1) an einem Befestigungsträger (2), wobei der Stein (1) so geschliffen ist, dass er eine Tafel (3), eine Krone (4), eine Rundiste (5) und einen Stumpf (6) aufweist, und das Einsetzverfahren die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    a) Bereitstellen eines Substrats (8), das mindestens eine Aufnahme (10) umfasst, in der der Stein (1) positioniert ist, wobei die Aufnahme (10) so angeordnet ist, dass sie zwischen dem Substrat (8) und dem Stein (1) mindestens auf der Höhe der Rundiste (5) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereiche (4a, 6a) der Krone (4) und des Stumpfs (6) einen peripheren freien Raum (12) bildet, und der periphere freie Raum (12) einen Boden (14) mit einer leitenden Oberfläche (16) aufweist;
    b) Galvanisches Abscheiden einer Metallschicht (36) im peripheren freien Raum (12) mindestens auf der Höhe der Rundiste (5) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereiche (4a, 6a) der Krone (4) und des Stumpfs (6), um die Rundiste (5) in der Metallschicht (36) einzuschließen und so den Befestigungsträger (2) zu bilden;
    c) Lösen des Steins (1) und seines Befestigungsträgers (2) vom Substrat (8),
    wobei das Verfahren dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass das Substrat (8) und seine Aufnahme (10) entsprechend den folgenden Schritten hergestellt werden:
    d) Bereitstellen eines Substrats (8), das auf der Oberfläche eine leitende Schicht (16) aufweist, und Ausbilden mindestens eines Durchgangslochs (18) im Substrat (8),
    e) Bedecken des Substrats (8) mit einer lichtempfindlichen Harzschicht (20) und fotolitografisches Ausbilden eines Hohlraums (22) im lichtempfindlichen Harz (20), dessen Abmessungen auf der Ebene des Substrats (8) größer als die Abmessungen der Rundiste (5) des Steins (1) sind, sodass der Hohlraum (22) eine zentrale Öffnung (24) entsprechend dem Durchgangsloch (18) und einen peripheren Bereich umfasst, der Seitenwände (26) aus Harz und einen Boden (14) aufweist, der von der leitenden Schicht (16) des Substrats um das Durchgangsloch (18) herum eingenommen ist, wobei die Abmessungen des Hohlraums (22) und des Durchgangslochs (18), die die Aufnahme (10) bilden, so gewählt sind, dass der Stumpf (6) des Steins (1) teilweise im Durchgangsloch (18) aufgenommen ist, um auf der Peripherie der zentralen Öffnung (24) des Hohlraums (22) aufzuliegen, wobei der Rest des Stumpfs (6) oberhalb des Durchgangslochs (18) den an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereich (6a) des Stumpfs (6) definiert, und so, dass der Rest des Steins (1) zwischen dem an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereich (6a) des Stumpfs (6) und mindestens bis zur Höhe des an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereichs (4a) der Krone (4) im Hohlraum (22) aufgenommen ist, um zwischen dem Stein (1) und den Wänden (26, 14) des Hohlraums (22) den peripheren freien Raum (12) zu bilden.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Abmessungen des Hohlraums (22) und des Durchgangslochs (18) so gewählt sind, dass der Stumpf (6) des Steins (1) fast vollständig im Durchgangsloch (18) aufgenommen wird, damit sich der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzende Bereich (6a) des Stumpfs (6) nur unmittelbar unterhalb der Rundiste (5) erstreckt und sich der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzende Bereich (4a) der Krone (4) nur unmittelbar oberhalb der Rundiste (5) erstreckt, um zwischen dem Stein (1) und den Wänden (26, 14) des Hohlraums (22), im Wesentlichen auf der Höhe der Rundiste (5) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereiche (4a, 6a) der Krone (4) und des Stumpfs (6) den peripheren freien Raum (12) zu bilden.
  3. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Aufnahme (10) eine solche Höhe aufweist, dass die Tafel (3) des Steins (1) die Aufnahme (10) überragt.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es zwischen den Schritten a) und b) einen Schritt f) zur Korrektur der Ausrichtung des Steins (1) umfasst.
  5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Schritt f) das In-Kontakt-Bringen der Tafel (3) des Steins (1) mit einer Vorrichtung (28) zur Neupositionierung des Steins (1) in seiner Aufnahme (10) umfasst
  6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4 oder 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es zwischen den Schritten f) und b), einen Schritt g) zum Befestigen des Stumpfs (6) des Steins (1) im Durchgangsloch (18) umfasst.
  7. Verfahren nach den Ansprüchen 5 und 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass auf Schritt g) ein Schritt h) zum Entfernen der Neupositionierungsvorrichtung (28) folgt.
  8. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die in Schritt b) aufgebrachte Metallschicht (36) aus einem Material hergestellt ist, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Nickel, Gold, Silber, Platin, Rhodium, Palladium, Kupfer und ihre Legierungen umfasst.
  9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Schritt e) die Verwendung eines negativen lichtempfindlichen Harzes (20), die UV-Bestrahlung der lichtempfindlichen Harzschicht (20) durch eine der gewünschten Kontur des Befestigungsträgers (2) entsprechende Maske und das Entfernen des nicht bestrahlten Teils der lichtempfindlichen Harzschicht (20) umfasst, um den Hohlraum (22) zu erhalten, dessen Kontur der Kontur des Befestigungsträgers (2) entspricht.
  10. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Substrat (8) auf einem Material basiert, dass aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Silicium, Keramik, Glas und ein Quarz umfasst.
  11. Verfahren zum Fassen eines Steins (1) auf einem Uhren- oder Schmuckelement, umfassend das Einsetzen des Steins (1) und seines entsprechend dem Einsetzverfahren nach den Ansprüchen 1 bis 10 erhaltenen Befestigungsträgers (2) an einem auf dem Uhren- oder Schmuckelement befestigten Futter (38).
  12. Uhren- oder Schmuckelement, umfassend mindestens einen Stein (1), der an seinem entsprechend dem Einsetzverfahren nach den Ansprüchen 1 bis 10 erhaltenen Befestigungsträger (2) eingesetzt ist.
EP17200360.0A 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Active EP3479720B1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200360.0A EP3479720B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
US16/140,852 US10743625B2 (en) 2017-11-07 2018-09-25 Method for crimping a stone
JP2018189738A JP6703582B2 (ja) 2017-11-07 2018-10-05 石をクリンプする方法
CN201811255717.5A CN109744668B (zh) 2017-11-07 2018-10-26 用于压接宝石的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200360.0A EP3479720B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3479720A1 EP3479720A1 (de) 2019-05-08
EP3479720B1 true EP3479720B1 (de) 2020-03-25

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EP17200360.0A Active EP3479720B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

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US (1) US10743625B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3479720B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6703582B2 (de)
CN (1) CN109744668B (de)

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JP6703582B2 (ja) 2020-06-03
CN109744668B (zh) 2020-11-06
EP3479720A1 (de) 2019-05-08
US20190133270A1 (en) 2019-05-09
US10743625B2 (en) 2020-08-18
CN109744668A (zh) 2019-05-14
JP2019084344A (ja) 2019-06-06

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