EP3479720B1 - Method for crimping a stone - Google Patents

Method for crimping a stone Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3479720B1
EP3479720B1 EP17200360.0A EP17200360A EP3479720B1 EP 3479720 B1 EP3479720 B1 EP 3479720B1 EP 17200360 A EP17200360 A EP 17200360A EP 3479720 B1 EP3479720 B1 EP 3479720B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
girdle
substrate
cavity
pavilion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP17200360.0A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3479720A1 (en
Inventor
Stewes Bourban
Pascal Grossenbacher
Jean-Claude Martin
Vladislav Spassov
Cécile BARRON
Lionel BLASER
Yann Caloz
Cyrille GERNEZ
Stéphane Lauper
Ahmad Odeh
Simon Springer
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Swatch Group Research and Development SA
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Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP17200360.0A priority Critical patent/EP3479720B1/en
Priority to US16/140,852 priority patent/US10743625B2/en
Priority to JP2018189738A priority patent/JP6703582B2/en
Priority to CN201811255717.5A priority patent/CN109744668B/en
Publication of EP3479720A1 publication Critical patent/EP3479720A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3479720B1 publication Critical patent/EP3479720B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/003—3D structures, e.g. superposed patterned layers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • C25D5/02—Electroplating of selected surface areas
    • C25D5/022—Electroplating of selected surface areas using masking means
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
  • the method consists of providing a wax mandrel with a tubular base, depositing a conductive coating on the surface of the mandrel, depositing the stone in the tubular base, depositing a metal by electroforming on the conductive coating layer by layer, to fill the gap between the stone and the seat with this metal to keep the stone in position and to remove the mandrel and the conductive coating.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to choose the dimensions of the housing, and more particularly the dimensions of the through hole, so as to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the mounting of the stone and its fixing support obtained according to the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.
  • the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a fixing support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondist 5 and a cylinder head 6.
  • a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, the dimensions of which can vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.
  • the first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising at least one housing 10 in which said stone 1, said housing 10 is positioned being arranged to form between the substrate 8 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 12 at least around the rounder 5 of stone 1, the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 having a conductive surface 16.
  • “Around the rounder” means that the the peripheral free space 12 is situated at least at the level of the rondist 5 and of zones 4a and 6a of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 respectively contiguous with the rondiste 5.
  • the dimensions of the through hole 18, in the plane of the substrate 8, are of dimensions smaller than the dimensions (generally called “diameter") of the rondist 5 of the stone 1 and the dimensions of the cavity 22, in the plane of the substrate 8, are greater than the diameter of the rondist 5 of the stone 1. Consequently, the cavity 22 has dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, greater than the dimensions of the through hole 18, the cavity 22 then comprising a central opening 24 corresponding to the hole through 18, and a peripheral zone comprising side walls 26 of resin and a bottom, that is to say the bottom 14 occupied by the conductive layer 16 of the substrate 8 around the through hole 18.
  • the housing 10 therefore has a section T-shaped in the plane perpendicular to the substrate 8, as shown in the figure 2 .
  • step e) comprises the use of a negative photosensitive resin 20, for example an SU8 resin, the UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer 20 through a mask corresponding to the outline of the desired mounting support, and removing the non-irradiated portion of the photosensitive resin layer 20 so as to obtain the cavity 22 whose outline corresponds to the outline of said desired mounting support.
  • a negative photosensitive resin 20 for example an SU8 resin
  • UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer 20 through a mask corresponding to the outline of the desired mounting support
  • removing the non-irradiated portion of the photosensitive resin layer 20 so as to obtain the cavity 22 whose outline corresponds to the outline of said desired mounting support.
  • step a) of the assembly method according to the invention continues with the placing of a stone 1 in each of the housings 10 formed.
  • the dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 forming the housing 10 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is partially housed in the through hole 18 to rest on the periphery of the central opening 24 of the cavity 22 , the rest of the breech 6 above the through hole 18 defining the zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, and so that the rest of the stone 1 between said zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5 and at least up to the level of zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 is housed in the cavity 22 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22, that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12.
  • the dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is almost entirely housed in the through hole 18 so that the zone 6a of cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 extends only immediately below the rondist 5, and the zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 extends only immediately above the rondiste 5 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22 , that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12 only substantially around the traffic light 5, that is to say at the traffic light 5 and only immediately on either side said rondist 5, as shown in the figure 3 .
  • the housing 10, and more particularly the cavity 22 has a height such that the table 3 of the stone 1 protrudes from said housing 10, and more particularly of the cavity 22, as shown in the figure 3 .
  • the thickness of the resin layer 20 is chosen for this purpose.
  • the only precise dimension of the stone that can be ensured being the "diameter" of the rondist 5 and its height, it is possible that the installation of the stone 1 is not done correctly, and does not allow to ensure a sufficient flatness from table 3 of stone 1.
  • the assembly method according to the invention may comprise, between steps a) and b), a step f) of correcting the orientation of the stone.
  • this step f) may include bringing the table 3 of the stone 1 into contact with a repositioning device 28 arranged to reposition the stone 1 in its housing 10.
  • a repositioning device 28 comprises for example a rigid plate 30 coated a deformable mat or foam 32 making it possible to compensate for the heights of the stones 1.
  • the repositioning device 28 is arranged so that the mat or foam 32 is brought into contact with the tables 3 of the stones positioned in their respective housings 10 on the substrate 8 so as to correct the orientation of said stones and to ensure the flatness of the tables 3 of the stones 1.
  • Stage g) consists, for example, of introducing, by the free entry of the through hole 18, a retaining adhesive 34 around the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 making it possible to fix the stone 1 in the housing 10.
  • a sufficiently viscous holding glue which will not fill the finest interstices.
  • the indium layer has the advantage of being deformed during the step f) of correcting the orientation of the stones by leveling the tables 3 and then being able to seal at the central opening 24 of the cavity 22.
  • Stage g) is followed by a step h) of removal of the repositioning device 28 in order to be able to continue implementing the assembly process of the invention.
  • step b) consists of depositing galvanically in said peripheral free space 12, from the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 occupied by the conductive layer 16, a metal layer 36 at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively.
  • the metal layer 36 deposited in step b) is preferably made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.
  • the electroforming conditions in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electrodeposited according to techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. for example Di Bari GA "electroforming” Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., NY USA 1984 ).
  • the dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, of the through hole 18 and of the cavity 22, and by the height of the metal layer 36 deposited according to the galvanic deposition parameters.
  • these parameters are chosen so that the metal layer 36 is deposited only substantially at the level of the rondist 5 and of the zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the rondist 5 so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially around the rondist 5 only, as shown in the figure 8 .
  • the fixing support 2 projects slightly over the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, but most of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 remain free.
  • step c) consists in releasing the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 from the substrate 8.
  • the silicon substrate 8 and the holding adhesive 34 are eliminated by dissolution.
  • the assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by providing in the substrate 8 through holes 18 of different diameters, adapted to the dimensions of said stones 1.
  • FIGS. 7a to 7c show some variants of stones 1 assembled to their fixing support 2 which can be obtained by using different photolithographic exposure masks corresponding to the outline of the desired fixing support.
  • the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping process according to the invention.
  • Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the stone 1 and of its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten 38 as shown in the figure 8 .
  • the kitten 38 is then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece or jewelry element.
  • the mounting of the fixing support 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelry element can be carried out by clipping, chasing, crimping, bonding, etc.
  • the timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., or any element of watchmaking / jewelry decor that can be set.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Description

Domaine de l'inventionField of the invention

L'invention se rapporte à un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation, ladite pierre étant taillée pour présenter une table, une couronne, un rondiste et une culasse. L'invention concerne également un procédé de sertissage sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie d'une pierre et de son support de fixation obtenus selon ledit procédé d'assemblage.The invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head. The invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.

Arrière-plan de l'inventionInvention background

Il est connu de sertir des pierres précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques à l'aide de griffes, de grains ou de rails. Le sertissage traditionnel par montage d'une pierre naturelle, comme du diamant ou de l'émeraude, dans un chaton au moyen de griffes impose généralement une maitrise dimensionnelle de la taille des pierres proche des 5/100. De ce fait, ce type de sertissage n'est pas compatible avec celui de pierres serties de grandes séries à faible coût utilisant quant à lui des pierres d'une plus grande précision, proche du 1/100, telles que le diamant synthétique, le zircon et le rubis.It is known to set precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones using claws, grains or rails. The traditional setting by mounting a natural stone, like diamond or emerald, in a kitten by means of claws generally requires a dimensional control of the size of the stones close to 5/100. As a result, this type of setting is not compatible with that of stones set in large series at low cost using stones of greater precision, close to 1/100, such as synthetic diamond, zircon and ruby.

On connaît du document US 2008/0066310 un procédé pour sertir une pierre sur la surface d'un bijou par électroformage. Le procédé consiste à se munir d'un mandrin en cire avec une assise tubulaire, à déposer un revêtement conducteur sur la surface du mandrin, à déposer la pierre dans l'assise tubulaire, à déposer un métal par électroformage sur le revêtement conducteur couche par couche, à remplir le gap entre la pierre et l'assise avec ce métal pour maintenir la pierre en position et à enlever le mandrin et le revêtement conducteur.We know the document US 2008/0066310 a process for setting a stone on the surface of a piece of jewelry by electroforming. The method consists of providing a wax mandrel with a tubular base, depositing a conductive coating on the surface of the mandrel, depositing the stone in the tubular base, depositing a metal by electroforming on the conductive coating layer by layer, to fill the gap between the stone and the seat with this metal to keep the stone in position and to remove the mandrel and the conductive coating.

Résumé de l'inventionSummary of the invention

La présente invention a pour but de remédier à cet inconvénient en proposant un procédé de sertissage de pierres permettant de s'affranchir des inévitables variations dimensionnelles rencontrées lorsque des pierres naturelles, telles que les diamants, sont utilisées. A cet effet, l'invention se rapporte tout d'abord à un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation, ladite pierre étant taillée pour présenter une table, une couronne, un rondiste et une culasse, ledit procédé comportant les étapes suivantes:

  1. a) se munir d'un substrat comportant au moins un logement dans lequel est positionnée ladite pierre, ledit logement étant agencé pour former entre le substrat et ladite pierre un espace libre périphérique au moins au niveau du rondiste de la pierre et de zones de la couronne et de la culasse contiguës au rondiste, le fond dudit espace libre périphérique présentant une surface conductrice
  2. b) déposer par voie galvanique dans ledit espace libre périphérique une couche métallique au moins au niveau du rondiste et des zones de la couronne et de la culasse contiguës au rondiste de manière à emprisonner ledit rondiste dans ladite couche métallique pour former, au moins sensiblement autour du rondiste de la pierre, ledit support de fixation
  3. c) libérer ladite pierre et son support de fixation du substrat
  4. d) se munir d'un substrat présentant une couche conductrice en surface et réaliser dans ledit substrat au moins un trou traversant
  5. e) recouvrir le substrat d'une couche de résine photosensible, et former par photolitographie dans la résine photosensible une cavité de dimensions, dans le plan du substrat, supérieures aux dimensions du rondiste de la pierre, de sorte que la cavité comprend une ouverture centrale en correspondance avec le trou traversant et une zone périphérique comprenant des parois latérales en résine et un fond occupé par la couche conductrice du substrat autour du trou traversant,
les dimensions de la cavité et du trou traversant formant le logement étant choisies de sorte que la culasse de la pierre se loge partiellement dans le trou traversant pour reposer sur la périphérie de l'ouverture centrale de la cavité, le reste de la culasse au-dessus du trou traversant définissant la zone de la culasse contiguë au rondiste, et de sorte que le reste de la pierre entre ladite zone de la culasse contiguë au rondiste et au moins jusqu'au niveau de la zone de la couronne contiguë au rondiste se loge dans la cavité de manière à former entre la pierre et les parois de la cavité, ledit espace libre périphérique.The object of the present invention is to remedy this drawback by proposing a method of setting stones which makes it possible to overcome the inevitable dimensional variations encountered when natural stones, such as diamonds, are used. To this end, the invention firstly relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head, said process comprising the following steps:
  1. a) providing a substrate comprising at least one housing in which said stone is positioned, said housing being arranged to form between the substrate and said stone a peripheral free space at least at the level of the stone rounder and areas of the crown and cylinder head adjoining the rondist, the bottom of said peripheral free space having a conductive surface
  2. b) galvanically depositing in said peripheral free space a metallic layer at least at the level of the rondist and of the zones of the crown and of the cylinder head contiguous to the rondiste so as to trap said rondiste in said metallic layer to form, at least substantially around of the stone rondiste, said fixing support
  3. c) releasing said stone and its support for fixing the substrate
  4. d) provide a substrate having a conductive layer on the surface and make in said substrate at least one through hole
  5. e) covering the substrate with a layer of photosensitive resin, and forming by photolitography in the photosensitive resin a cavity of dimensions, in the plane of the substrate, greater than the dimensions of the rondiste of the stone, so that the cavity comprises a central opening in correspondence with the through hole and a peripheral zone comprising lateral resin walls and a bottom occupied by the conductive layer of the substrate around the through hole,
the dimensions of the cavity and the through hole forming the housing being chosen so that the breech of the stone is partially housed in the through hole to rest on the periphery of the central opening of the cavity, the rest of the breech above the through hole defining the area of the breech adjoining the rondist, and so that the rest of the stone between said zone of the breech contiguous to the rondiste and at least up to the level of the zone of the crown contiguous to the rondiste is lodged in the cavity so as to form between the stone and the walls of the cavity, said peripheral free space.

Le procédé selon l'invention permet de choisir les dimensions du logement, et plus particulièrement les dimensions du trou traversant, de manière à s'adapter aux variations dimensionnelles des pierres.The method according to the invention makes it possible to choose the dimensions of the housing, and more particularly the dimensions of the through hole, so as to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones.

L'invention se rapporte également à un procédé de sertissage d'une pierre sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprenant le montage de la pierre et de son support de fixation obtenus selon le procédé tel que défini ci-dessus sur un chaton ensuite rapporté sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie ou directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.The invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the mounting of the stone and its fixing support obtained according to the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.

L'invention se rapporte également à un élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprenant au moins une pierre assemblée sur son support de fixation obtenue selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que défini ci-dessus.The invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.

Description sommaire des dessinsBrief description of the drawings

D'autres particularités et avantages ressortiront clairement de la description qui en est faite ci-après, à titre indicatif et nullement limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • les figures 1 à 6 sont des représentations des étapes successives d'un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation selon l'invention ;
  • les figures 7a à 7c sont des vue de dessus de différentes variantes de forme de pierres et de supports de fixation obtenus selon le procédé de l'invention ; et
  • la figure 8 est une vue en coupe représentant une pierre et son support de fixation monté sur un chaton.
Other particularities and advantages will emerge clearly from the description given below, by way of indication and in no way limitative, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:
  • the Figures 1 to 6 are representations of the successive stages of a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support according to the invention;
  • the Figures 7a to 7c are top views of different variants of the shape of stones and of fixing supports obtained according to the method of the invention; and
  • the figure 8 is a sectional view representing a stone and its fixing support mounted on a kitten.

Description détaillée des modes de réalisation préférésDetailed description of preferred embodiments

En référence aux figures 1 à 6 et 8, la présente invention se rapporte à un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre 1 sur un support de fixation 2, ladite pierre 1 étant taillée pour présenter une table 3, une couronne 4, un rondiste 5 et une culasse 6. Une telle pierre est de préférence une pierre d'origine naturelle, telle que du diamant ou de l'émeraude, dont les dimensions peuvent varier d'une pierre à l'autre. Il est bien évident que la pierre peut être de toute autre nature, naturelle ou synthétique, le procédé selon l'invention pouvant également être avantageusement utilisé pour de telles pierres.With reference to Figures 1 to 6 and 8 , the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a fixing support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondist 5 and a cylinder head 6. Such a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, the dimensions of which can vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.

La première étape a) du procédé d'assemblage de la pierre 1 sur un support de fixation 2 selon l'invention consiste à se munir d'un substrat 8 comportant au moins un logement 10 dans lequel est positionnée ladite pierre 1, ledit logement 10 étant agencé pour former entre le substrat 8 et ladite pierre 1 un espace libre périphérique 12 au moins autour du rondiste 5 de la pierre 1, le fond 14 dudit espace libre périphérique 12 présentant une surface conductrice 16. « Autour du rondiste » signifie que l'espace libre périphérique 12 se situe au moins au niveau du rondiste 5 et de zones 4a et 6a de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 respectivement contiguës au rondiste 5.The first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising at least one housing 10 in which said stone 1, said housing 10 is positioned being arranged to form between the substrate 8 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 12 at least around the rounder 5 of stone 1, the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 having a conductive surface 16. "Around the rounder" means that the the peripheral free space 12 is situated at least at the level of the rondist 5 and of zones 4a and 6a of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 respectively contiguous with the rondiste 5.

Plus précisément, le substrat 8 et son logement 10 peuvent être avantageusement réalisés selon les étapes d) et e) suivantes :

  • L'étape d) consiste à se munir d'un substrat 8 présentant une couche conductrice 16 en surface et à réaliser dans ledit substrat 8 au moins un trou traversant 18. On forme un trou traversant 18 par pierre 1 à assembler. Avantageusement, le substrat 8 est par exemple à base de silicium, de verre, de céramique, ou de quartz. On pourra utiliser par exemple des wafers silicium pour micro-électronique. La couche conductrice 16 peut être obtenue par exemple par dépôt PVD (Physical Vapor Déposition) de chrome, de titane, d'or et leurs combinaisons. Toute autre couche conductrice appropriée peut être utilisée. Les trous traversants 18 peuvent être formés sur le substrat 8 par exemple par ablation laser. D'une manière avantageuse, la répartition des trous traversants 18 sur la surface du substrat est optimisée notamment en fonction des dimensions des logements, de la forme des supports de fixation, etc..., afin d'avoir un nombre maximum de trous traversants sur la surface du substrat 8.
  • L'étape e) consiste à recouvrir le substrat 8 d'une couche de résine photosensible 20 comme le montre la figure 1, puis à former par photolitographie dans ladite résine photosensible 20 une cavité 22, ladite cavité 22 et le trou traversant 18 formant le logement 10 dans lequel sera positionnée la pierre 1 comme cela sera décrit ci-après. La cavité 22 est creusée jusqu'à faire apparaitre la couche conductrice 16.
More precisely, the substrate 8 and its housing 10 can advantageously be produced according to the following steps d) and e):
  • Step d) consists of providing a substrate 8 having a conductive layer 16 on the surface and making in said substrate 8 at least one through hole 18. A through hole 18 is formed by stone 1 to be assembled. Advantageously, the substrate 8 is for example based on silicon, glass, ceramic, or quartz. We can use for example silicon wafers for microelectronics. The conductive layer 16 can be obtained for example by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) deposition of chromium, titanium, gold and their combinations. Any other layer suitable conductor can be used. The through holes 18 can be formed on the substrate 8, for example by laser ablation. Advantageously, the distribution of the through holes 18 on the surface of the substrate is optimized in particular as a function of the dimensions of the housings, the shape of the fixing supports, etc., in order to have a maximum number of through holes on the surface of the substrate 8.
  • Step e) consists in covering the substrate 8 with a layer of photosensitive resin 20 as shown in the figure 1 , then to form by photolitography in said photosensitive resin 20 a cavity 22, said cavity 22 and the through hole 18 forming the housing 10 in which the stone 1 will be positioned as will be described below. The cavity 22 is hollowed out until the conductive layer 16 appears.

Les dimensions du trou traversant 18, dans le plan du substrat 8, sont de dimensions inférieures aux dimensions (appelé généralement « diamètre ») du rondiste 5 de la pierre 1 et les dimensions de la cavité 22, dans le plan du substrat 8, sont supérieures au diamètre du rondiste 5 de la pierre 1. En conséquence, la cavité 22 présente des dimensions, dans le plan du substrat 8, supérieures aux dimensions du trou traversant 18, la cavité 22 comprenant alors une ouverture centrale 24 en correspondance avec le trou traversant 18, et une zone périphérique comprenant des parois latérales 26 en résine et un fond, c'est-à-dire le fond 14 occupé par la couche conductrice 16 du substrat 8 autour du trou traversant 18. Le logement 10 présente donc une section en forme de T dans le plan perpendiculaire au substrat 8, comme le montre la figure 2.The dimensions of the through hole 18, in the plane of the substrate 8, are of dimensions smaller than the dimensions (generally called "diameter") of the rondist 5 of the stone 1 and the dimensions of the cavity 22, in the plane of the substrate 8, are greater than the diameter of the rondist 5 of the stone 1. Consequently, the cavity 22 has dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, greater than the dimensions of the through hole 18, the cavity 22 then comprising a central opening 24 corresponding to the hole through 18, and a peripheral zone comprising side walls 26 of resin and a bottom, that is to say the bottom 14 occupied by the conductive layer 16 of the substrate 8 around the through hole 18. The housing 10 therefore has a section T-shaped in the plane perpendicular to the substrate 8, as shown in the figure 2 .

D'une manière particulièrement avantageuse, l'étape e) comprend l'utilisation d'une résine photosensible 20 négative, par exemple une résine SU8, l'irradiation par UV de la couche de résine photosensible 20 à travers un masque correspondant au contour du support de fixation souhaité, et l'élimination de la partie non irradiée de la couche de résine photosensible 20 de façon à obtenir la cavité 22 dont le contour correspond au contour dudit support de fixation souhaité. Un tel procédé de photolitographie est connu en soi de l'homme du métier et ne nécessite pas de description plus détaillée.In a particularly advantageous manner, step e) comprises the use of a negative photosensitive resin 20, for example an SU8 resin, the UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer 20 through a mask corresponding to the outline of the desired mounting support, and removing the non-irradiated portion of the photosensitive resin layer 20 so as to obtain the cavity 22 whose outline corresponds to the outline of said desired mounting support. Such a method of photolitography is known per se to those skilled in the art and does not require a more detailed description.

Une fois le substrat 8 et ses logements 10 réalisés, l'étape a) du procédé d'assemblage selon l'invention se poursuit par la mise en place d'une pierre 1 dans chacun des logements 10 formés.Once the substrate 8 and its housings 10 have been produced, step a) of the assembly method according to the invention continues with the placing of a stone 1 in each of the housings 10 formed.

Les dimensions de la cavité 22 et du trou traversant 18 formant le logement 10 sont choisies de sorte que la culasse 6 de la pierre 1 se loge partiellement dans le trou traversant 18 pour reposer sur la périphérie de l'ouverture centrale 24 de la cavité 22, le reste de la culasse 6 au-dessus du trou traversant 18 définissant la zone 6a de la culasse 6 contiguë au rondiste 5, et de sorte que le reste de la pierre 1 entre ladite zone 6a de la culasse 6 contiguë au rondiste 5 et au moins jusqu'au niveau de la zone 4a de la couronne 4 contiguë au rondiste 5 se loge dans la cavité 22 de manière à former entre la pierre 1 et les parois de la cavité 22, c'est-à-dire les parois latérales 26 et le fond 14, ledit espace libre périphérique 12.The dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 forming the housing 10 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is partially housed in the through hole 18 to rest on the periphery of the central opening 24 of the cavity 22 , the rest of the breech 6 above the through hole 18 defining the zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, and so that the rest of the stone 1 between said zone 6a of the breech 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5 and at least up to the level of zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 is housed in the cavity 22 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22, that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12.

D'une manière particulièrement préférée, les dimensions de la cavité 22 et du trou traversant 18 sont choisies de sorte que la culasse 6 de la pierre 1 se loge pratiquement entièrement dans le trou traversant 18 afin que la zone 6a de culasse 6 contiguë au rondiste 5 s'étende uniquement immédiatement en dessous du rondiste 5, et la zone 4a de la couronne 4 contiguë au rondiste 5 s'étend uniquement immédiatement au-dessus du rondiste 5 de manière à former entre la pierre 1 et les parois de la cavité 22, c'est-à-dire les parois latérales 26 et le fond 14, ledit espace libre périphérique 12 uniquement sensiblement autour du rondiste 5, c'est-à-dire au niveau du rondiste 5 et uniquement immédiatement de part et d'autre dudit rondiste 5, comme le montre la figure 3. En outre, le logement 10, et plus particulièrement la cavité 22, présente une hauteur telle que la table 3 de la pierre 1 dépasse dudit logement 10, et plus particulièrement de la cavité 22, comme le montre la figure 3. L'épaisseur de la couche de résine 20 est choisie à cet effet.In a particularly preferred manner, the dimensions of the cavity 22 and of the through hole 18 are chosen so that the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 is almost entirely housed in the through hole 18 so that the zone 6a of cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 extends only immediately below the rondist 5, and the zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 extends only immediately above the rondiste 5 so as to form between the stone 1 and the walls of the cavity 22 , that is to say the side walls 26 and the bottom 14, said peripheral free space 12 only substantially around the traffic light 5, that is to say at the traffic light 5 and only immediately on either side said rondist 5, as shown in the figure 3 . In addition, the housing 10, and more particularly the cavity 22, has a height such that the table 3 of the stone 1 protrudes from said housing 10, and more particularly of the cavity 22, as shown in the figure 3 . The thickness of the resin layer 20 is chosen for this purpose.

La seule cote précise de la pierre pouvant être assurée étant le « diamètre » du rondiste 5 et sa hauteur, il est possible que la mise en place de la pierre 1 ne se fasse pas correctement, et ne permette pas d'assurer une planéité suffisante de la table 3 de la pierre 1.The only precise dimension of the stone that can be ensured being the "diameter" of the rondist 5 and its height, it is possible that the installation of the stone 1 is not done correctly, and does not allow to ensure a sufficient flatness from table 3 of stone 1.

Dans ce cas, le procédé d'assemblage selon l'invention peut comprendre, entre les étapes a) et b), une étape f) de correction de l'orientation de la pierre. D'une manière avantageuse, et en référence à la figure 4, cette étape f) peut comprendre la mise en contact de la table 3 de la pierre 1 avec un dispositif de repositionnement 28 agencé pour repositionner la pierre 1 dans son logement 10. Un tel dispositif de repositionnement 28 comprend par exemple une plaque rigide 30 revêtue d'un tapis déformable ou d'une mousse 32 permettant de compenser les hauteurs des pierres 1. Le dispositif de repositionnement 28 est agencé pour que le tapis ou la mousse 32 soit mis en contact avec les tables 3 des pierres positionnées dans leurs logements respectifs 10 sur le substrat 8 de manière à corriger l'orientation desdites pierres et à assurer la planéité des tables 3 des pierres 1.In this case, the assembly method according to the invention may comprise, between steps a) and b), a step f) of correcting the orientation of the stone. Advantageously, and with reference to the figure 4 , this step f) may include bringing the table 3 of the stone 1 into contact with a repositioning device 28 arranged to reposition the stone 1 in its housing 10. Such a repositioning device 28 comprises for example a rigid plate 30 coated a deformable mat or foam 32 making it possible to compensate for the heights of the stones 1. The repositioning device 28 is arranged so that the mat or foam 32 is brought into contact with the tables 3 of the stones positioned in their respective housings 10 on the substrate 8 so as to correct the orientation of said stones and to ensure the flatness of the tables 3 of the stones 1.

Avant de retirer le dispositif de repositionnement 28, il peut être nécessaire de prévoir, entre les étapes f) et b), une étage g) de fixation de la culasse 6 de la pierre 1 dans le trou traversant 18. Cette étape g) permet de conserver le positionnement correct des pierres 1 dans leurs logements 10, même après avoir retiré le dispositif de repositionnement 28.Before removing the repositioning device 28, it may be necessary to provide, between steps f) and b), a stage g) for fixing the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 in the through hole 18. This step g) allows to keep the correct positioning of the stones 1 in their housings 10, even after having removed the repositioning device 28.

L'étage g) consiste par exemple à introduire, par l'entrée libre du trou traversant 18, une colle de maintien 34 autour de la culasse 6 de la pierre 1 permettant de fixer la pierre 1 dans le logement 10. Afin d'éviter que la colle de maintien 34 ne passe dans la cavité 22 en cas de jeu entre la pierre 1 et l'ouverture centrale 24, on peut utiliser une colle de maintien suffisamment visqueuse qui ne remplira pas les interstices les plus fins. Il est également possible de boucher, du côté de la cavité 22, les interstices existants entre la pierre 1 et l'ouverture centrale 24, préalablement au dépôt de la colle de maintien 34. A cet effet, on peut pulvériser dans lesdits interstices, du côté de la cavité 22, une résine qui pourra facilement être éliminée (par dissolution par exemple). Il est également possible de prévoir un dépôt d'une couche d'indium de 50 µm environ sur le substrat 8 de silicium avant la mise en place des pierres 1. La couche d'indium présente l'avantage de se déformer lors de l'étape f) de correction de l'orientation des pierres par la mise à niveau des tables 3 et de pouvoir ensuite assurer l'étanchéité au niveau de l'ouverture centrale 24 de la cavité 22.Stage g) consists, for example, of introducing, by the free entry of the through hole 18, a retaining adhesive 34 around the cylinder head 6 of the stone 1 making it possible to fix the stone 1 in the housing 10. In order to avoid that the holding glue 34 does not pass into the cavity 22 in the event of play between the stone 1 and the central opening 24, it is possible to use a sufficiently viscous holding glue which will not fill the finest interstices. It is also possible to plug, on the side of the cavity 22, the interstices existing between the stone 1 and the central opening 24, prior to the deposition of the retaining adhesive 34. To this end, it is possible to spray into said interstices side from the cavity 22, a resin which can easily be removed (by dissolution for example). It is also possible to provide for the deposition of an indium layer of approximately 50 μm on the silicon substrate 8 before the stones 1 are put in place. The indium layer has the advantage of being deformed during the step f) of correcting the orientation of the stones by leveling the tables 3 and then being able to seal at the central opening 24 of the cavity 22.

L'étage g) est suivie d'une étape h) de retrait du dispositif de repositionnement 28 pour pouvoir poursuivre la mise en œuvre du procédé d'assemblage de l'invention.Stage g) is followed by a step h) of removal of the repositioning device 28 in order to be able to continue implementing the assembly process of the invention.

Une fois la pierre 1 positionnée dans son logement 10 sur le substrat 8 en formant entre ledit substrat 8 et ladite pierre 1 un espace libre périphérique 12 au moins au niveau du rondiste 5 et des zones 4a et 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 contiguës au rondiste 5 conformément à l'étape a) décrite ci-dessus, le procédé d'assemblage selon l'invention se poursuit par la mise en œuvre de l'étape b). Cette étape b) consiste à déposer par voie galvanique dans ledit espace libre périphérique 12, à partir du fond 14 dudit espace libre périphérique 12 occupé par la couche conductrice 16, une couche métallique 36 au niveau du rondiste 5 et des zones 4a, 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 contiguës au rondiste 5, de manière à emprisonner ledit rondiste 5 dans ladite couche métallique 36 pour former, au moins sensiblement autour du rondiste 5 de la pierre 1, ledit support de fixation 2, comme le montre la figure 6. Son rondiste 5 étant emprisonné dans la couche métallique 36 constituant le support de fixation 2, la pierre 1 est désormais solidaire de son support de fixation 2.Once the stone 1 is positioned in its housing 10 on the substrate 8, forming between said substrate 8 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 12 at least at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a and 6a of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 in accordance with step a) described above, the assembly process according to the invention continues with the implementation of step b). This step b) consists of depositing galvanically in said peripheral free space 12, from the bottom 14 of said peripheral free space 12 occupied by the conductive layer 16, a metal layer 36 at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively. of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5, so as to trap said rondiste 5 in said metallic layer 36 to form, at least substantially around the rondiste 5 of stone 1, said fixing support 2, as shown the figure 6 . Its rondist 5 being trapped in the metal layer 36 constituting the fixing support 2, the stone 1 is now secured to its fixing support 2.

La couche métallique 36 déposée à l'étape b) est de préférence réalisée dans un matériau choisi parmi le groupe comprenant le nickel, l'or, l'argent, le platine, le rhodium, le palladium, le cuivre et leurs alliages.The metal layer 36 deposited in step b) is preferably made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.

Les conditions d'électroformage, notamment la composition des bains, la géométrie du système, les tensions et densités de courant, sont choisis pour chaque métal ou alliage à électro-déposer selon les techniques bien connues dans l'art de l'électroformage (cf. par exemple Di Bari G.A. "electroforming" Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition rédigée par L.J. Durney, publié par Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., N.Y. USA 1984 ).The electroforming conditions, in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electrodeposited according to techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. for example Di Bari GA "electroforming" Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., NY USA 1984 ).

Les cotes du support de fixation 2 sont définies par les dimensions, dans le plan du substrat 8, du trou traversant 18 et de la cavité 22, et par la hauteur de la couche métallique 36 déposée selon les paramètres de dépôt galvanique.The dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions, in the plane of the substrate 8, of the through hole 18 and of the cavity 22, and by the height of the metal layer 36 deposited according to the galvanic deposition parameters.

De préférence, ces paramètres sont choisis pour que la couche métallique 36 se dépose uniquement sensiblement au niveau du rondiste 5 et des zones 4a, 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 qui s'étendent uniquement immédiatement de part et d'autre du rondiste 5 de sorte que le support de fixation 2 est positionné sensiblement autour du rondiste 5 uniquement, comme le montre la figure 8. Le support de fixation 2 déborde légèrement sur les zones 4a et 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 contiguës au rondiste 5, mais l'essentiel de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 reste libre.Preferably, these parameters are chosen so that the metal layer 36 is deposited only substantially at the level of the rondist 5 and of the zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the rondist 5 so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially around the rondist 5 only, as shown in the figure 8 . The fixing support 2 projects slightly over the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, but most of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 remain free.

L'étape c) suivante consiste à libérer la pierre 1 assemblée sur son support de fixation 2 du substrat 8. A cet effet, on élimine le substrat 8 en silicium ainsi que la colle de maintien 34 par dissolution. On pourra utiliser par exemple de l'hydroxyde de potassium KOH 20% chauffé à 85°C pour dissoudre le silicium, et des solvants commerciaux pour dissoudre la colle.The following step c) consists in releasing the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 from the substrate 8. To this end, the silicon substrate 8 and the holding adhesive 34 are eliminated by dissolution. We can use for example potassium hydroxide KOH 20% heated to 85 ° C to dissolve the silicon, and commercial solvents to dissolve the glue.

Le procédé d'assemblage selon l'invention permet de s'adapter aux variations dimensionnelles des pierres 1 en prévoyant dans le substrat 8 des trous traversants 18 de différents diamètres, adaptés aux dimensions desdites pierres 1.The assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by providing in the substrate 8 through holes 18 of different diameters, adapted to the dimensions of said stones 1.

Les figures 7a à 7c montrent quelques variantes de pierres 1 assemblées à leur support de fixation 2 qu'il est possible d'obtenir en utilisant différents masques d'exposition photolithographiques correspondant au contour du support de fixation souhaité.The Figures 7a to 7c show some variants of stones 1 assembled to their fixing support 2 which can be obtained by using different photolithographic exposure masks corresponding to the outline of the desired fixing support.

La pierre 1 assemblée sur son support de fixation 2 ainsi libéré peut être utilisée dans le procédé de sertissage selon l'invention.The stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping process according to the invention.

Ledit procédé de sertissage de ladite pierre sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprend le montage de la pierre 1 et de son support de fixation 2 obtenus selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que décrit ci-dessus sur un chaton 38 comme représenté sur la figure 8. Le chaton 38 est ensuite rapporté sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the stone 1 and of its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten 38 as shown in the figure 8 . The kitten 38 is then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item.

Dans une autre variante, la pierre 1 et son support de fixation 2 obtenus selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que décrit ci-dessus sont montés directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.In another variant, the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece or jewelry element.

Le montage du support de fixation 2 portant la pierre 1 sur le chaton 38 ou directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie peut être réalisé par clippage, chassage, sertissage, collage, etc.The mounting of the fixing support 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelry element can be carried out by clipping, chasing, crimping, bonding, etc.

L'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie peut être par exemple un cadran, une lunette, une lunette tournante, une carrure, une corne de la boite, une couronne, une aiguille, un index, un maillon ou autre élément de bracelet, un élément de pendentif, de bague, de collier, etc., ou tout élément décor d'horlogerie / bijouterie pouvant être serti.The timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., or any element of watchmaking / jewelry decor that can be set.

Claims (12)

  1. Method for assembling a stone (1) on a setting support (2), said stone (1) being cut to exhibit a table (3), a crown (4), a girdle (5) and a pavilion (6), said assembly method comprising the following steps:
    a) providing a substrate (8) comprising at least one recess (10), in which said stone (1) is positioned, said recess (10) being arranged to form, between the substrate (8) and said stone (1), a peripheral free space (12) at least in the vicinity of the girdle (5) and of the zones (4a, 6a) of the crown (4) and of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5), said peripheral free space (12) comprising a bottom (14) having a conductive surface (16),
    b) depositing, by electroplating in said peripheral free space (12), a metal layer (36) at least in the vicinity of the girdle (5) and of the zones (4a, 6a) of the crown (4) and of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5), so as to confine said girdle (5) in said metal layer (36) to form said setting support (2);
    c) releasing said stone (1) and its setting support (2) from the substrate (8),
    the method being characterized in the that the substrate (8) and its recess (10) are produced according to the following steps:
    d) providing a substrate (8) having a conductive surface layer (16) and producing at least one through-hole (18) in said substrate (8),
    e) covering the substrate (8) with a photosensitive resin layer (20) and forming, by photolithography in the photosensitive resin (20), a cavity (22), the dimensions of which, in the plane of the substrate (8), are greater than the dimensions of the girdle (5) of the stone (1), so that the cavity (22) comprises a central opening (24) corresponding to the through-hole (18) and a peripheral zone comprising resin side walls (26) and a bottom (14) occupied by the conductive layer (16) of the substrate around the through-hole (18),
    the dimensions of the cavity (22) and of the through-hole (18) forming said recess (10) being selected so that the pavilion (6) of the stone (1) is partially housed in the through-hole (18), so as to rest on the periphery of the central opening (24) of the cavity (22), the remainder of the pavilion (6) above the through-hole (18) defining the zone (6a) of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5), and so that the remainder of the stone (1) between said zone (6a) of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5) and at least up to the level of the zone (4a) of the crown (4) contiguous to the girdle (5) is housed in the cavity (22), so as to form, between the stone (1) and the walls (26, 14) of the cavity (22), said peripheral free space (12).
  2. Method according to Claim 1, characterised in that the dimensions of the cavity (22) and of the through-hole (18) are selected so that the pavilion (6) of the stone (1) is practically fully housed in the through-hole (18), so that the zone (6a) of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5) only extends directly below the girdle (5), and the zone (4a) of the crown (4) contiguous to the girdle (5) only extends directly above the girdle (5), so as to form, between the stone (1) and the walls (26, 14) of the cavity (22), substantially in the vicinity of the girdle (5) and of said zones (4a, 6a) of the crown (4) and of the pavilion (6) contiguous to the girdle (5), said peripheral free space (12).
  3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the height of the recess (10) is such that the table (3) of the stone (1) exceeds said recess (10).
  4. Method according to Claim 3, characterised in that it comprises, between steps a) and b), a step f) of correcting the orientation of the stone (1).
  5. Method according to Claim 4, characterised in that step f) comprises bringing the table (3) of the stone (1) into contact with a device (28) for repositioning the stone (1) in its recess (10).
  6. Method according to either Claim 4 or 5, characterised in that it comprises, between steps f) and b), a step g) of setting the pavilion (6) of the stone (1) in the through-hole (18).
  7. Method according to Claims 5 and 6, characterised in that step g) is followed by a step h) of removing the repositioning device (28).
  8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the metal layer (36) deposited during step b) is made of a material selected from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and the alloys thereof.
  9. Method according to Claim 1, characterised in that step e) comprises the use of a negative photosensitive resin (20), with the UV irradiation of the photosensitive resin layer (20) through a mask corresponding to the profile of the desired setting support (2), and the removal of the non-irradiated part of the photosensitive resin layer (20), so as to obtain said cavity (22), the profile of which corresponds to the profile of the setting support (2).
  10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the substrate (8) is based on a material selected from the group comprising silicon, a ceramic, a glass and a quartz.
  11. Method for crimping a stone (1) on an element of a timekeeping or jewellery part, comprising the assembly of the stone (1) and of its setting support (2), obtained according to the assembly method according to Claims 1 to 10, on a setting (38) added to the element of a timekeeping or jewellery part or directly on the element of a timekeeping or jewellery part.
  12. Element of a timekeeping or jewellery part comprising at least one stone (1) assembled on its setting support (2) obtained according to the assembly method according to Claims 1 to 10.
EP17200360.0A 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Method for crimping a stone Active EP3479720B1 (en)

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EP17200360.0A EP3479720B1 (en) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Method for crimping a stone
US16/140,852 US10743625B2 (en) 2017-11-07 2018-09-25 Method for crimping a stone
JP2018189738A JP6703582B2 (en) 2017-11-07 2018-10-05 How to crimp stones
CN201811255717.5A CN109744668B (en) 2017-11-07 2018-10-26 Method for crimping gemstones

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EP3569091A1 (en) * 2018-05-18 2019-11-20 D. Swarovski KG Method of making a decorative article, such as a jewellery piece
EP3771359B1 (en) * 2019-07-29 2023-05-10 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Method for crimping a stone
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US10743625B2 (en) 2020-08-18
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