EP3479721B1 - Method for crimping a stone - Google Patents
Method for crimping a stone Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP3479721B1 EP3479721B1 EP17200365.9A EP17200365A EP3479721B1 EP 3479721 B1 EP3479721 B1 EP 3479721B1 EP 17200365 A EP17200365 A EP 17200365A EP 3479721 B1 EP3479721 B1 EP 3479721B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stone
- adhesive layer
- girdle
- hot
- melt adhesive
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 title claims description 80
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 42
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 title description 23
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims description 47
- 239000004831 Hot glue Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palladium Chemical compound [Pd] KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000012790 adhesive layer Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010949 copper Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000000151 deposition Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052763 palladium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-methoxyethoxy)benzohydrazide Chemical compound COCCOC1=CC=CC(C(=O)NN)=C1 GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910001369 Brass Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- FGUUSXIOTUKUDN-IBGZPJMESA-N C1(=CC=CC=C1)N1C2=C(NC([C@H](C1)NC=1OC(=NN=1)C1=CC=CC=C1)=O)C=CC=C2 Chemical compound C1(=CC=CC=C1)N1C2=C(NC([C@H](C1)NC=1OC(=NN=1)C1=CC=CC=C1)=O)C=CC=C2 FGUUSXIOTUKUDN-IBGZPJMESA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010951 brass Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007769 metal material Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010453 quartz Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052703 rhodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010948 rhodium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- MHOVAHRLVXNVSD-UHFFFAOYSA-N rhodium atom Chemical compound [Rh] MHOVAHRLVXNVSD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon dioxide Inorganic materials O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005323 electroforming Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000231 atomic layer deposition Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003292 glue Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005240 physical vapour deposition Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910018072 Al 2 O 3 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910017083 AlN Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 241000579895 Chlorostilbon Species 0.000 description 1
- 229910004298 SiO 2 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910010413 TiO 2 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002969 artificial stone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013043 chemical agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004020 conductor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009713 electroplating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010976 emerald Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052876 emerald Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000005530 etching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012943 hotmelt Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004922 lacquer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011368 organic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010979 ruby Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001750 ruby Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052845 zircon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GFQYVLUOOAAOGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N zirconium(iv) silicate Chemical compound [Zr+4].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] GFQYVLUOOAAOGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D1/00—Electroforming
- C25D1/003—3D structures, e.g. superposed patterned layers
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
- C25D5/02—Electroplating of selected surface areas
- C25D5/022—Electroplating of selected surface areas using masking means
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
- C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
- G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
- G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like
Definitions
- the invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head.
- the invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
- the object of the present invention is to remedy this drawback by proposing a method of setting stones which makes it possible to overcome the inevitable dimensional variations encountered when natural stones, such as diamonds, are used.
- the positioning of the stones by means of the hot-melt adhesive layer according to the method of the invention avoids having to first create housing of adequate size to receive the stones.
- the method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to overcome the dimensional variations of the stones.
- the invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone on an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the assembly of the stone and its fixing support obtained by the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.
- the invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.
- the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a fixing support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondist 5 and a cylinder head 6.
- a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, the dimensions of which can vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.
- the first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising a hot-melt adhesive layer 10.
- the substrate 8 is in the form of a plate, and is based on glass, ceramic, polymer, metal, silicon, quartz or any other support with a suitable flat surface.
- the substrate 8 is a glass plate.
- the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is preferably a layer of glue soluble in hot water or a solvent, of the “hot melt” type, such as Crystalbond TM, Wafer-Mount TM glues or any other similar suitable mounting product.
- the second step b) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in positioning the stone 1 on the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 of the substrate 8.
- the stone 1 is positioned so that its table 3 is in contact with the adhesive layer 10, as shown in the figure 1 .
- Several stones can thus be positioned on the substrate. The positioning of the stones can correspond to the desired final shape, for example a specific pattern.
- the third step c) of the assembly method of the invention consists in heating the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 so that it is at least sufficiently softened to be able to sink the stones 1 into it.
- the fourth step d) of the assembly method of the invention consists in exerting pressure on the stone 1 in order to be able to press, according to the variant shown here, only part of the crown 4 of the stone 1 into the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 sufficiently softened, so that the rest of the crown 4, the rondist 5 and the cylinder head 6 remain in the open air, as shown in the figure 2 .
- the stone 1 is pushed in until its table 3 is in contact with the substrate 8, which makes it possible to ensure the flatness of the table 3.
- Step b) can advantageously be implemented after step c) in particular when the stone 1 is positioned so that it is its cylinder head 6 which is partly embedded in the hot-melt adhesive layer which is sufficiently softened, leaving the open the rest of the stone, so that the rest of the cylinder head 6, the rondist 5 and the crown 4 remain in the open air.
- the height of the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is chosen so that the crown 4 (or the cylinder head 6, depending on the variant used) is almost entirely pressed into the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 and comes into contact with the substrate 8, only a part crown 4 (or cylinder head 6) of small thickness e (see Figure 2 ) being left in the open air under the rondist 5.
- This part will include the zone 4a of the crown 4 (or the zone 6a of the cylinder head 6) contiguous to the rondist 5, as defined below.
- the assembly obtained is allowed to cool so that the adhesive layer 10 solidifies and keeps the stone 1 on the substrate 8 without having had to form adequate housings in said substrate.
- step e) by the positioning above the adhesive layer 10 (cooled and solidified) of a crimping sheet 12 cut around the stone 1 so as to form between the edge 14 of the crimping sheet 12 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 16 at least at the level of the rondist 5, of a zone 4a of the crown 4 and of a zone 6b of the cylinder head 6 , said zones 4a and 6a being contiguous with the rondist 5.
- the crimping sheet 12 is made of a conductive material, for example in a metallic material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
- a metallic material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
- Step e) further comprises placing a lower insulating layer 18 between the adhesive layer 10 and the crimping sheet 12 and setting up an upper insulating layer 20 on the free surface of the sheet crimping 12, as shown in the figure 3 .
- the insulating layers 18 and 20 are cut around the stone and are superimposed with the crimping sheet 12. They can for example be in the form of a sheet of organic material, such as polymers, resins, lacquers, etc. or are obtained for example by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition), CVD (Chemical Layer Deposition) or other similar methods, of dielectric thin layers of SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , TiO 2 , AlN, If 3 N 4 , etc.
- PVD Physical Vapor Deposition
- ALD Atomic Layer Deposition
- CVD Chemical Layer Deposition
- step f) of the method of the invention consists in depositing, by galvanic growth, in said peripheral free space 16, from the edge 14 of the crimping sheet 12, a metal layer 22 at least at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 so as to trap said rondist 5 in said metallic layer 22, as shown in the figure 4 .
- the stone 1 is now secured to the crimping sheet 12, the metal layer 22 in the continuity of the crimping sheet 12 forming with the said fixing support 2.
- the zone 6a of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5 and the zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 extend only immediately on either side of the rondiste 5, over a thickness less than the thickness e of the part of the crown left in the open air, so as to form said metallic layer 22 between the stone 1 and the crimping sheet, only substantially around the rondist, that is to say at the level of the rondist 5 and only immediately on either side of said rondist 5.
- the metal layer 22 is preferably made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.
- the electroforming conditions in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electrodeposited according to techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. . for example Di Bari GA "electroforming” Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., NY USA 1984 ).
- the following step g) consists in releasing the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 from the substrate 8.
- This step g) is carried out for example by dissolving the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 in an organic solvent.
- the insulating layers are removed by mechanical peeling, dissolution in organic solvents or etching by chemical agents.
- a fixing support is obtained in the form of a plate comprising several stones 1 assembled to said plate, the stones being able to form a pattern.
- the dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions of the crimping sheet 12.
- the thickness of the crimping sheet 12 is preferably chosen so that the metal layer 22 is deposited only substantially at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the rondist 5 as described above, so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially only around Rondist 5, as shown in the figure 5 .
- the fixing support 2 projects slightly over the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, but most of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 remain free.
- the assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by allowing the stones to be assembled on their fixing support without having to first form different housings of appropriate dimensions to receive stones.
- the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping process according to the invention.
- Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the stone 1 and of its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten . The kitten is then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item.
- the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece or jewelry item.
- the mounting of the fixing support 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelry element can be carried out by clipping, chasing, crimping, etc.
- the timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index finger, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., any element of internal or external covering, or any element of clockwork / jewelry decor that can be set.
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Electrochemistry (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Metallurgy (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Adornments (AREA)
- Adhesives Or Adhesive Processes (AREA)
Description
L'invention se rapporte à un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation, ladite pierre étant taillée pour présenter une table, une couronne, un rondiste et une culasse. L'invention concerne également un procédé de sertissage sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie d'une pierre et de son support de fixation obtenus selon ledit procédé d'assemblage.The invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head. The invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
Il est connu de sertir des pierres précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques à l'aide de griffes, de grains ou de rails. Le sertissage traditionnel par montage d'une pierre naturelle dans un chaton au moyen de griffes impose généralement une maitrise dimensionnelle de la taille des pierres proche des 5/100. De ce fait, ce type de sertissage n'est pas compatible avec celui de pierres serties de grandes séries à faible coût utilisant quant à lui des pierres d'une plus grande précision, proche du 1/100, telles que le diamant synthétique, le zircon et le rubis. Le document
La présente invention a pour but de remédier à cet inconvénient en proposant un procédé de sertissage de pierres permettant de s'affranchir des inévitables variations dimensionnelles rencontrées lorsque des pierres naturelles, telles que les diamants, sont utilisées.The object of the present invention is to remedy this drawback by proposing a method of setting stones which makes it possible to overcome the inevitable dimensional variations encountered when natural stones, such as diamonds, are used.
A cet effet, l'invention se rapporte tout d'abord à un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation, ladite pierre étant taillée pour présenter une table, une couronne, un rondiste et une culasse, ledit procédé comportant les étapes suivantes:
- a) se munir d'un substrat comportant une couche adhésive thermofusible
- b) positionner la pierre sur la couche adhésive thermofusible du substrat
- c) chauffer la couche adhésive thermofusible
- d) exercer une pression sur la pierre pour pouvoir enfoncer une partie de la couronne ou une partie de la culasse de la pierre dans la couche adhésive thermofusible suffisamment ramollie en laissant à l'air libre le reste de la pierre, respectivement soit le reste de la couronne, le rondiste et la culasse, soit le reste de la culasse, le rondiste et la couronne
- e) positionner au-dessus de la couche adhésive une feuille de sertissage autour de la pierre de manière à former entre la feuille de sertissage et ladite pierre un espace libre périphérique au moins au niveau du rondiste et de zones de la couronne et de la culasse contiguës au rondiste
- f) déposer par croissance galvanique dans ledit espace libre périphérique, depuis la feuille de sertissage, une couche métallique au moins au niveau du rondiste et des zones de la couronne et de la culasse contiguës au rondiste de manière à emprisonner ledit rondiste dans ladite couche métallique, la couche métallique et la feuille de sertissage formant ledit support de fixation
- g) libérer ladite pierre et son support de fixation du substrat.
- a) provide a substrate comprising a hot-melt adhesive layer
- b) position the stone on the hot-melt adhesive layer of the substrate
- c) heating the hot-melt adhesive layer
- d) exert a pressure on the stone in order to be able to push part of the crown or part of the cylinder head of the stone into the hot-melt adhesive layer which is sufficiently softened, leaving the rest of the stone in the open air, respectively the rest of the crown, the rondiste and the cylinder head, i.e. the rest of the cylinder head, the rondiste and the crown
- e) positioning above the adhesive layer a crimping sheet around the stone so as to form between the crimping sheet and said stone a peripheral free space at least at the level of the rondiste and of the crown and cylinder head areas contiguous to the rondist
- f) depositing by galvanic growth in said peripheral free space, from the crimping sheet, a metal layer at least at the level of the rondist and of the zones of the crown and of the cylinder head contiguous to the rondiste so as to trap said rondiste in said metallic layer , the metal layer and the crimping sheet forming said fixing support
- g) releasing said stone and its fixing support from the substrate.
Le positionnement des pierres au moyen de la couche adhésive thermofusible selon le procédé de l'invention évite d'avoir à créer au préalable des logements de taille adéquate pour recevoir les pierres. Le procédé selon l'invention permet en conséquence de s'affranchir des variations dimensionnelles des pierres.The positioning of the stones by means of the hot-melt adhesive layer according to the method of the invention avoids having to first create housing of adequate size to receive the stones. The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to overcome the dimensional variations of the stones.
L'invention se rapporte également à un procédé de sertissage d'une pierre sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprenant le montage de la pierre et de son support de fixation obtenus selon le procédé tel que défini ci-dessus sur un chaton ensuite rapporté sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie ou directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.The invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone on an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the assembly of the stone and its fixing support obtained by the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.
L'invention se rapporte également à un élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprenant au moins une pierre assemblée sur son support de fixation obtenue selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que défini ci-dessus.The invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.
D'autres particularités et avantages ressortiront clairement de la description qui en est faite ci-après, à titre indicatif et nullement limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :
- les
figures 1 à 5 sont des représentations des étapes successives d'un procédé d'assemblage d'une pierre sur un support de fixation selon l'invention.
- the
Figures 1 to 5 are representations of the successive stages of a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support according to the invention.
En référence aux
La première étape a) du procédé d'assemblage de la pierre 1 sur un support de fixation 2 selon l'invention consiste à se munir d'un substrat 8 comportant une couche adhésive thermofusible 10.The first step a) of the method of assembling the
De préférence, le substrat 8 est sous forme de plaque, et est à base de verre, de céramique, de polymère, de métal, de silicium, de quartz ou tout autre support à surface plane approprié. Avantageusement, le substrat 8 est une plaque de verre.Preferably, the
La couche adhésive thermofusible 10 est de préférence une couche de colle soluble dans l'eau chaude ou un solvant, de type « hot melt », telle que les colles Crystalbond™, Wafer-Mount™ ou tout autre produit de montage similaire approprié.The hot-melt
La deuxième étape b) du procédé d'assemblage de la pierre 1 sur un support de fixation 2 selon l'invention consiste positionner la pierre 1 sur la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 du substrat 8. D'une manière avantageuse et particulièrement préférée, la pierre 1 est positionnée de sorte que sa table 3 est au contact de la couche adhésive 10, comme le montre la
La troisième étape c) du procédé d'assemblage de l'invention consiste à chauffer la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 pour qu'elle soit au moins suffisamment ramollie pour pouvoir y enfoncer les pierres 1.The third step c) of the assembly method of the invention consists in heating the hot-melt
La quatrième étape d) du procédé d'assemblage de l'invention consiste à exercer une pression sur la pierre 1 pour pouvoir enfoncer, selon la variante représentée ici, seulement une partie de la couronne 4 de la pierre 1 dans la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 suffisamment ramollie, de sorte que le reste de la couronne 4, le rondiste 5 et la culasse 6 restent à l'air libre, comme le montre la
Il est bien évident que l'ordre des étapes b) et c) peut être inversé. L'étape b) peut avantageusement être mise en œuvre après l'étape c) notamment lorsque la pierre 1 est positionnée de sorte que c'est sa culasse 6 qui est en partie enfoncée dans la couche adhésive thermofusible suffisamment ramollie en laissant à l'air libre le reste de la pierre, de sorte que le reste de la culasse 6, le rondiste 5 et la couronne 4 restent à l'air libre.It is obvious that the order of steps b) and c) can be reversed. Step b) can advantageously be implemented after step c) in particular when the
La hauteur de la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 est choisie de sorte que la couronne 4 (ou la culasse 6, selon la variante mise en œuvre) soit pratiquement entièrement enfoncée dans la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 et arrive au contact du substrat 8, seule une partie de la couronne 4 (ou de la culasse 6) de faible épaisseur e (voir
L'ensemble obtenu est laissé refroidir de sorte que la couche adhésive 10 se solidifie et maintient la pierre 1 sur le substrat 8 sans avoir eu à former de logements adéquats dans ledit substrat.The assembly obtained is allowed to cool so that the
Puis, la mise en œuvre du procédé de l'invention se poursuit conformément à l'étape e) par le positionnement au-dessus de la couche adhésive 10 (refroidie et solidifiée) d'une feuille de sertissage 12 découpée autour de la pierre 1 de manière à former entre la tranche 14 de la feuille de sertissage 12 et ladite pierre 1 un espace libre périphérique 16 au moins au niveau du rondiste 5, d'une zone 4a de la couronne 4 et d'une zone 6b de la culasse 6, lesdites zones 4a et 6a étant contiguës au rondiste 5.Then, the implementation of the process of the invention continues in accordance with step e) by the positioning above the adhesive layer 10 (cooled and solidified) of a
La feuille de sertissage 12 est réalisée dans un matériau conducteur, par exemple dans un matériau métallique choisi parmi le groupe comprenant le nickel, l'or, l'argent, le platine, le palladium, le cuivre, le laiton, et leurs alliages. Ainsi, l'espace libre périphérique 16 est délimité par la surface conductrice de la tranche 14 de la feuille de sertissage 12.The
L'étape e) comprend en outre la mise en place d'une couche isolante inférieure 18 entre la couche adhésive 10 et la feuille de sertissage 12 et la mise en place d'une couche isolante supérieure 20 sur la surface libre de la feuille de sertissage 12, comme le montre la
Puis, l'étape f) du procédé de l'invention consiste à déposer par croissance galvanique dans ledit espace libre périphérique 16, depuis la tranche 14 de la feuille de sertissage 12, une couche métallique 22 au moins au niveau du rondiste 5 et des zones 4a et 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 contiguës au rondiste 5 de manière à emprisonner ledit rondiste 5 dans ladite couche métallique 22, comme le montre la
De préférence, la zone 6a de la culasse 6 contiguë au rondiste 5 et la zone 4a de la couronne 4 contiguë au rondiste 5 s'étendent uniquement immédiatement de part et d'autre du rondiste 5, sur une épaisseur inférieure à l'épaisseur e de la partie de la couronne laissée à l'air libre, de manière à former ladite couche métallique 22 entre la pierre 1 et la feuille de sertissage, uniquement sensiblement autour du rondiste, c'est-à-dire au niveau du rondiste 5 et uniquement immédiatement de part et d'autre dudit rondiste 5.Preferably, the
La couche métallique 22 est réalisée de préférence dans un matériau choisi parmi le groupe comprenant le nickel, l'or, l'argent, le platine, le rhodium, le palladium, le cuivre et leurs alliages.The
Les conditions d'électroformage, notamment la composition des bains, la géométrie du système, les tensions et densités de courant, sont choisis pour chaque métal ou alliage à électro-déposer selon les techniques bien connues dans l'art de l'électroformage (cf. par exemple
L'étape g) suivante consiste à libérer la pierre 1 assemblée sur son support de fixation 2 du substrat 8. Cette étape g) est réalisée par exemple par dissolution de la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 dans un solvant organique. Les couches isolantes sont éliminées par pelage mécanique, dissolution dans des solvants organiques ou attaque (etching) par agents chimiques.The following step g) consists in releasing the
On obtient une pierre 1 assemblée sur son support de fixation 2 comme montré sur la
Lorsque plusieurs pierres 1 ont été positionnées sur la couche adhésive thermofusible 10 à l'étape b), on obtient un support de fixation sous la forme d'une plaque comprenant plusieurs pierres 1 assemblées à ladite plaque, les pierres pouvant former un motif.When
On comprendra que les cotes du support de fixation 2 sont définies par les dimensions de la feuille de sertissage 12. Notamment, l'épaisseur de la feuille de sertissage 12 est choisie de préférence pour que la couche métallique 22 se dépose uniquement sensiblement au niveau du rondiste 5 et des zones 4a, 6a respectivement de la couronne 4 et de la culasse 6 qui s'étendent uniquement immédiatement de part et d'autre du rondiste 5 comme décrit ci-dessus, de sorte que le support de fixation 2 est positionné sensiblement autour du rondiste 5 uniquement, comme le montre la
Le procédé d'assemblage selon l'invention permet de s'adapter aux variations dimensionnelles des pierres 1 en permettant l'assemblage des pierres sur leur support de fixation sans avoir à former au préalable différents logements de dimensions appropriées pour recevoir des pierres.The assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the
La pierre 1 assemblée sur son support de fixation 2 ainsi libéré peut être utilisée dans le procédé de sertissage selon l'invention.The
Ledit procédé de sertissage de ladite pierre sur un élément d'une pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie comprend le montage de la pierre 1 et de son support de fixation 2 obtenus selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que décrit ci-dessus sur un chaton. Le chaton est ensuite rapporté sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the
Dans une autre variante, la pierre 1 et son support de fixation 2 obtenus selon le procédé d'assemblage tel que décrit ci-dessus sont montés directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie.In another variant, the
Le montage du support de fixation 2 portant la pierre 1 sur le chaton 38 ou directement sur l'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie peut être réalisé par clippage, chassage, sertissage, etc.The mounting of the fixing
L'élément de pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie peut être par exemple un cadran, une lunette, une lunette tournante, une carrure, une corne de la boite, une couronne, une aiguille, un index, un maillon ou autre élément de bracelet, un élément de pendentif, de bague, de collier, etc., tout élément d'habillage interne ou externe, ou tout élément de décor d'horlogerie / bijouterie pouvant être serti.The timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index finger, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., any element of internal or external covering, or any element of clockwork / jewelry decor that can be set.
Claims (11)
- Method for assembling a stone (1) on to a mounting (2), said stone (1) being cut so that it has a table (3), a crown (4), a girdle (5) and a pavilion (6), said assembly method comprising the following steps:a) providing a substrate (8) comprising a hot-melt adhesive layer (10);b) positioning the stone (1) on the hot-melt adhesive layer (10) of the substrate (8);c) heating the hot-melt adhesive layer (10);d) exerting a pressure on the stone (1) so that part of the crown (4) or part of the pavilion (6) of the stone (1) can be sunk into the sufficiently softened hot-melt adhesive layer (10), leaving the rest of the stone (1) exposed;e) positioning a setting sheet (12) around the stone (1) above the adhesive layer (10), so as to form a peripheral free space (16) between the setting sheet (12) and said stone (1), at least at the level of the girdle (5) and of areas (4a, 6a) of the crown (4) and the pavilion (6) adjacent to the girdle (5);f) depositing a metallic layer (22) by galvanic growth in said peripheral free space (16) from the setting sheet (12), at least at the level of the girdle (5) and of the areas (4a, 6a) of the crown (4) and the pavilion (6) adjacent to the girdle (5), so as to trap said girdle (5) in said metallic layer (22), the metallic layer (22) and the setting sheet (12) forming said mounting (2);g) releasing said stone (1) and its mounting (2) from the substrate (8).
- Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the area (6a) of the pavilion (6) adjacent to the girdle (5) and the area (4a) of the crown (4) adjacent to the girdle (5) extend immediately on either side of the girdle (5) only, so that said metallic layer (22) is formed between the stone (1) and the setting sheet (12), substantially around the girdle (5) only.
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the setting sheet (12) is made of a metallic material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that step e) also comprises the placing of a lower insulating layer (18) between the adhesive layer (10) and the setting sheet (12) and the placing of an upper insulating layer (20) on the free surface of the setting sheet (12).
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metallic layer (22) deposited in step f) is made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper, and their alloys.
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substrate (8) is based on a material chosen from the group comprising a glass, a ceramic, a silicon, a metal, a polymer and a quartz.
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hot-melt adhesive layer (10) is a layer of soluble adhesive.
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the release step g) is carried out by dissolving the hot-melt adhesive layer (10).
- Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that a plurality of stones (1) are positioned on the hot-melt adhesive layer (10) to form a mounting (2) in the form of a plate comprising a plurality of stones (1) assembled on to said plate.
- Method for setting a stone (1) on an element of a timepiece or a of a piece of jewellery, comprising fitting the stone (1) and its mounting (2), produced according to the assembly method according to Claims 1 to 9, on to a bezel which is then affixed to the element of the timepiece or piece of jewellery, or directly on to the element of the timepiece or piece of jewellery.
- Element of a timepiece or a of a piece of jewellery, comprising at least one stone (1) assembled on to its mounting (2), produced according to the assembly method according to Claims 1 to 9.
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2017-11-07 | Method for crimping a stone |
US16/141,370 US10736389B2 (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2018-09-25 | Method for setting a stone |
JP2018201537A JP6666977B2 (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2018-10-26 | How to set a stone |
CN201811319395.6A CN109744667B (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2018-11-07 | Method for inlaying stone |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2017-11-07 | Method for crimping a stone |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP3479721A1 EP3479721A1 (en) | 2019-05-08 |
EP3479721B1 true EP3479721B1 (en) | 2020-05-13 |
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ID=60269706
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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EP17200365.9A Active EP3479721B1 (en) | 2017-11-07 | 2017-11-07 | Method for crimping a stone |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
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US (1) | US10736389B2 (en) |
EP (1) | EP3479721B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP6666977B2 (en) |
CN (1) | CN109744667B (en) |
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US11169265B2 (en) | 2018-05-03 | 2021-11-09 | Fujifilm Sonosite, Inc. | Dual frequency ultrasound transducer |
CN110281683B (en) * | 2019-07-18 | 2021-12-21 | 广州番禺职业技术学院 | Method for manufacturing ceramic inlaid metal craft ornaments |
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Publication number | Publication date |
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US20190133271A1 (en) | 2019-05-09 |
JP6666977B2 (en) | 2020-03-18 |
US10736389B2 (en) | 2020-08-11 |
EP3479721A1 (en) | 2019-05-08 |
CN109744667A (en) | 2019-05-14 |
CN109744667B (en) | 2021-06-29 |
JP2019084350A (en) | 2019-06-06 |
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