Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/04—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres
  • D04H1/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres having existing or potential cohesive properties, e.g. natural fibres, prestretched or fibrillated artificial fibres and hardened by felting; Felts or felted products
  • D04H1/09—Silk
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C1/00—Corsets or girdles
  • A41C1/006—Corsets or girdles provided with means preventing the riding-up of the garment
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41G—ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS; WIGS; MASKS; FEATHERS
  • A41G1/00—Artificial flowers, fruit, leaves, or trees; Garlands
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01B—MECHANICAL TREATMENT OF NATURAL FIBROUS OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL TO OBTAIN FIBRES OF FILAMENTS, e.g. FOR SPINNING
  • D01B7/00—Obtaining silk fibres or filaments
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
  • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
  • D04H1/4266—Natural fibres not provided for in group D04H1/425
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H3/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length
  • D04H3/015—Natural yarns or filaments
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
  • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
  • D10B2211/04—Silk

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of nonwoven fabrics, in particular the field of nonwoven fabrics comprising natural silk.
• the subject of the invention is a nonwoven fabric of natural silk, and more specifically a sheet of nonwoven fabric of natural silk.
• Silk is a textile of animal origin that is used to make silk fabrics. In industry, it is usually produced by caterpillars of certain butterflies, such as the caterpillar of the mulberry tree (Bombyx mon). Sericulture consists of all the operations of cultivation of the mulberry tree, raising of the silkworm to obtain the cocoon, unwinding the cocoon, and spinning silk.
• the silkworm produces silk proteins that are secreted as a single wire ("drool") consisting essentially of two proteins, fibroin and sericin. The fibroin forms a filament around which the sericin will play a role of natural adhesive, fixing and protecting the filaments. This drool is used by the silkworm to suspend and make a cocoon in which it can finish its development and its transformation into a butterfly.
• This yarn is also formed of a plurality of fibroin filaments, and not of a single filament as in the original slime. Fabrics made from this yarn will therefore have properties totally different from that of natural silk. In addition, this method of producing silk involves killing the animal used to make the cocoon.
• Sericin has very particular properties, which distinguish it from fibroin. In particular, it has a nutritional, anti-oxidant, anti-UV and antibacterial action, especially on the skin. There is therefore a need for textiles consisting of natural silk, rich in sericin, and not silk extracted by spinning a cocoon, transformed and poor in sericin.
• the natural silk textiles will therefore preferably be nonwoven fabrics.
• the invention therefore relates to a sheet of nonwoven fabric of natural silk, comprising fibers and / or fibers of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C, the son or fibers comprising fibroin in an amount of between 70% and 80% and sericin A, sericin B and sericin C in an amount of between 20% and 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the yarn or fiber; and comprising at least one protruding flange; the rim being located at the periphery of the sheet.
• the projecting flange has a thickness of between 0.1 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.25 and 25 mm, more preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm.
• the area occupied by the projecting flange represents less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 1%, of the total surface of said sheet.
• the width of the protruding flange is between 0.002 and 12.5 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 2.5 mm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 mm.
• the sheet is partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape; preferably of convex shape.
• the invention also relates to a nonwoven fabric sheet of natural silk, comprising fibers and / or fibers of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C, the son or fibers comprising fibroin in an amount of between 70% and 80% and sericin A, sericin B and sericin C in an amount of between 20% and 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the yarn or fiber; the sheet being partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape; preferably of convex shape.
• the convex shape is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron, an octahedron, a regular dodecahedron and a regular icosahedron; a cone ; a sphere ; a partially hollow sphere; a half sphere; an ovoid; a dome; or one of their combinations.
• the sheet comprises at least one protruding rim; the rim being located at the periphery of the sheet.
• the yarns and / or fibers further comprise a quantity of waxes comprised between 0.4% and 0.8%, a quantity of carbohydrates of between 1.2% and 1.6%, a quantity of inorganic components of about 0.7% and an amount of pigments of about 0.2%, by weight based on the total weight of the yarn or fiber.
• the wires have a length greater than 1 m, preferably greater than 100 m, more preferably greater than 500 m, even more preferably greater than 1 km.
• the fibers have a length of between 600 nm and 1 ⁇ m, preferably between 600 ⁇ m and 1 mm.
• the thickness of the sheet is between 0.001 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 10 mm, more preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, over a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total area.
• the sheet is a curtain.
• the invention also relates to an article comprising or consisting of at least one sheet as described above.
• the article comprises at least one support, each support being coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet as described above.
• the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a non-woven fabric of natural silk, comprising the steps of: (a) raising a silkworm; (b) take the silkworm at a time when it secretes natural silk; (c) depositing it on a surface of a support in which:
• the surface of the support does not have asperities whose dimension is greater than 3 mm, preferably greater than 1 mm, more preferably greater than 0.5 mm, even more preferably greater than 0.1 mm; the surface of the support has no recesses whose width is greater than 1.5 cm, preferably greater than 1 cm, more preferably greater than 5 mm, even more preferably greater than 1 mm; and the surface and / or the support is configured to limit the progression of the silkworm;
• the surface of the support is of two-dimensional shape.
• the surface of the support is partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape, preferably of convex shape.
• the surface of the support is an oval; a disk ; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle, a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or one of their combinations.
• the surface of the support is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron, an octahedron, a regular dodecahedron and a regular icosahedron; a cone ; a sphere ; a partially hollow sphere; a half sphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or one of their combinations.
• the surface of the support has no roughness and / or no recess.
• the support does not comprise asperities whose dimension is greater than 3 mm to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, even more preferably 50 mm, of the surface of the support.
• the support has no recesses whose width is greater than 1.5 cm to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, even more preferably 50 mm, of the surface of the support.
• the non-woven fabric of natural silk is a sheet.
• the support is raised, preferably by means of a tube, a column or a rod.
• two-dimensional refers to a property of a surface that is flat, that is to say devoid of relief.
• a two-dimensional surface is in particular devoid of concavity and convexity.
• the method according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain sheets of two-dimensional shape.
• Cocoon refers to a natural silk envelope made by a silkworm in which it ends its transformation into a butterfly.
• concave refers to a property of a surface that is hollow, that is, that has a rounded inward shape. Its opposite is “convex” or “convex”. The concavity of an object designates the part of it that has a hollow form.
• convex refers to a property of a surface that has a curved or domed curve, that is, that has a rounded outward shape.
• the convexity of an object designates the part of it that has a convex shape.
• thickness refers, when the context refers to a sheet, to one of the dimensions of the sheet, measured by the difference between its two main faces. For example, when the sheet is comparable to a parallelepiped or a disk, its thickness is the height of the parallelepiped or disk. In the invention, the thickness of a sheet will generally be substantially less than each of the dimensions of the sides of the leaf. Unless the context clearly indicates otherwise, the thickness is always measured at the center of the sheet faces.
• Sheet or “tablecloth” are synonymous and refer to a piece of flat textile having two main faces and a physical boundary called "periphery".
• a sheet may be for example a fabric, a fabric, a fabric, a veil or a veil.
• the physical characteristics that may be associated with a sheet include its thickness, perimeter, surface and density.
• a sheet will generally have a thickness substantially less than each of the dimensions of its faces. For example, a sheet whose faces are in the form of a square may have a side of length greater than or equal to 5 times its thickness; and a sheet whose faces are disk-shaped may have a diameter greater than or equal to 5 times its thickness.
• Fibroma refers to a protein filament produced by the silkworm. Fibroma is the main constituent of natural silk.
• “Satin” refers to a property of a surface that partially reflects visible light so that it has a soft, slightly shiny appearance, but is not shiny, reflective or bright.
• Sericin refers to a protein produced by the silkworm. Sericin is one of the main constituents of natural silk, with fibroin. Sericin can be distinguished into several fractions, which have different solubilities: sericin A is furthest from fibroin, sericin B is the intermediate layer and sericin C is the inner layer adjacent to fibroin. By allowing fibroin filaments to adhere to one another, sericin plays an adhesive role in natural silk and in the cocoon. Most prior art silk yarn or leaf manufacturing processes extract at least one type of sericin, either voluntarily or involuntarily.
• Natural silk or “raw silk” refers to a protein fiber synthesized by a silkworm. Natural silk consists essentially of a filament comprising two strands of fibroin organized in double helix, connected by disulfide bridges and surrounded by successive layers of sericin. A cocoon of silkworm is essentially made of natural silk. When it is being secreted by the silkworm, natural silk is also called “drool”.
• “Support” refers to an article comprising at least one solid surface capable of being covered by a textile sheet, in particular a sheet according to the invention.
• Elevated refers to a condition of an article, particularly a support, which is placed at a sufficient height and a sufficient distance from any solid so that a silkworm deposited on the article can not leave the article without falling.
• a “raising means” refers to any means of placing an item in a raised state, that is, elevating it.
• Texttile refers to a material that can divide or that can be made into fibers or textile threads. Examples of textiles are silk, cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and synthetic fibers. A woven fabric is called "fabric".
• Non-woven fabric refers to a material of structure and / or appearance similar to a fabric, but which is not woven.
• a nonwoven fabric is traditionally made from fibers bonded together chemically, mechanically and / or thermally.
• An example of a nonwoven fabric is felt, which is made by pressing and scalding natural fibers such as wool.
• Three-dimensional refers to a property of a surface that includes at least one non-planar portion, i.e., that includes at least one relief.
• a three-dimensional surface may in particular comprise a concavity and / or a convexity.
• the method according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain sheets of Mdimensional volume form such as half-spheres or spheres.
• “Silkworm” refers to an eruciform larva ("caterpillar"), a butterfly that produces natural silk, eg the mulberry bombyx (Bombyx mon), the silkworm Tussah (Antheraea pernyi), the saturnia of the Japanese oak (Antheraea yamamai), or the bombyx of the winged, also called Bombyx eri (Samia cynthia).
• Bombyx eri also called Bombyx eri (Samia cynthia).
• “veiling” refers to a translucent sheet, that is to say a sheet whose material allows the visible light to pass, but without allowing to clearly distinguish the objects through the sheet.
• the present invention relates to a nonwoven fabric sheet of natural silk.
• the sheet has a thickness substantially less than each of the dimensions of its faces.
• the shorter of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 5 times the thickness of the sheet.
• the shorter of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 10 times the thickness of the sheet.
• the shorter of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 50 times the thickness of the sheet.
• the shorter of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 100 times the thickness of the sheet.
• the shorter of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 500 times the thickness of the sheet.
• the thickness of the sheet is at least 5 nm, preferably at least 5 ⁇ m, more preferably at least 0.1 mm, over a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total area. According to one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is less than 100 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferably less than 1 mm, over a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99% of its total surface area.
• the thickness of the sheet is between 0.001 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 10 mm, more preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, on a surface corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total surface area.
• the density of the sheet is between 15 and 45 g / m 2 , preferably between 20 and 40 g / m 2 , more preferably between 27 and 31 g / m 2 .
• the sheet is symmetrical.
• the sheet is asymmetrical.
• the sheet is two-dimensional. According to another embodiment, the sheet is partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape, such as a convexity or a concavity. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially two-dimensional in shape and is partially three-dimensional in shape. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises at least one convexity. In one embodiment, the sheet is convex. According to one embodiment, the sheet is not concave. In one embodiment, the sheet has no concavity.
• An example of concavity in the sense of the invention is a spherical shape with a diameter greater than or equal to 300 mm.
• the faces of the sheet are oval-shaped; disc; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or their combinations.
• the faces of the sheet are rectangles whose width is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, the thickness of the sheet.
• the "width” is defined in this context as being the shortest of both sides of the surface of the rectangle.
• the faces of the sheet are discs whose diameter is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, the thickness of the sheet.
• the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a partially or completely regular volume.
• the sheet is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron (for example a parallelepiped), an octahedron, a regular dodecahedron and a regular icosahedron; a cone, a sphere; a partially hollow sphere, a half-sphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or their combinations.
• the edges of the polyhedron are marked by the presence of a protruding flange along the entire length of the edge.
• the sheet is a sphere or a half-sphere whose circumference is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, its thickness, measured at any point of the sphere or half-sphere.
• the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is an irregularly shaped volume, for example a flower petal or an asymmetrical shape.
• the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a volume that forms part of a garment or garment, for example a corset.
• the sheet is a veiling, that is to say a translucent sheet.
• the sheeting has a thickness of between 0.001 and 1 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 mm, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 mm, on a surface corresponding to at least 90 mm. %, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total area.
• the sheeting has a thickness of 0.1 to 0.3 mm on a surface corresponding to at least 90% of its total area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of an organza.
• the sheeting has a thickness of 0.3 to 0.9 mm on a surface corresponding to at least 90% of its total area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of a muslin of silk. In another embodiment, the sheeting has a thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm on a surface corresponding to at least 90% of its total area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that a silk twill. In another embodiment, the sheeting has a thickness of at least 1.6 mm on a surface corresponding to at least 90% of its total area and its degree of opacity is comparable, for example, to that of a felt. In another embodiment, the sheet is opaque. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises a place and a back. In one embodiment, the back has a more satin appearance than the place.
• the sheet comprises at least one projecting rim.
• the projecting flange is located at the periphery of the sheet.
• the sheet has a location and a backside and the flange protrudes from the location of the sheet.
• the thickness of the protruding flange is between 0.1 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.25 and 25 mm, more preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm.
• the width of the protruding flange is between 0.002 and 12.5 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 2.5 mm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 mm.
• the area occupied by the protruding flange is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 1%, of the total area of the sheet.
• the projecting flange improves the physical properties of the sheet, for example the resistance to deformation (rigidity).
• the presence of the protruding flange makes it possible to avoid a finishing step such as rolling or overjumping (formation of a hem or a rim)
• the presence of the protruding flange makes it possible to avoid a step of finish such as overlocking (immobilizing the yarns at the periphery of a fabric).
• the sheet is not a cocoon. According to one embodiment, the sheet does not include any material from a cocoon. According to one embodiment, the sheet is not made from cocoons. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers and / or fibers of fibroin coated with at least one sericin. In one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers and / or fibroin fibers coated with sericin A, sericin B and / or sericin C. In a specific embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and / or fibers. of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C.
• the sheet comprises yarns and / or fibers comprising fibroids in an amount of between 70% and 80% and at least one sericin in an amount of between 20% and 30% by weight by weight. relative to the total weight of the yarn or fiber.
• the sheet comprises yarns and / or fibers having the composition shown in Table 1. In one embodiment, the sheet has the composition shown in Table 1.
• the sheet comprises son whose length is greater than 1 m, preferably greater than 100 m, more preferably greater than 500 m, even more preferably greater than 1 km.
• the sheet comprises threads whose length is less than 3 km, preferably less than 2 km.
• the length of the wires is greater than 1 m and less than 2 km.
• the sheet comprises threads whose length is between 1 and 1.5 km.
• the sheet comprises fibers whose length is between 600 nm and 1 m, preferably between 50 ⁇ and 1 mm.
• the fibers and / or wires have a triangular section. According to one embodiment, if their section is similar to a circular section, the fibers and / or son have a diameter of about 10 .mu.m.
• the yarns and / or the fibers are arranged in a non-random manner. According to one embodiment, the yarns and / or the fibers are oriented. According to one embodiment, the yarns and / or the fibers do not form a stitch.
• the sheet comprises silk fibers decomposing between 100 and 150 ° C, preferably at about 130 ° C. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibers having a carbonization temperature of between 250 and 350 ° C, preferably about 300 ° C. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibers having an elongation capacity of about 17% to about 25% dry, and about 30% wet.
• the nonwoven fabric sheet according to the invention can be subject to various post-treatments, including ennoblement techniques known to those skilled in the art.
• the sheet can be subject to post-treatments generally applied to silk in the textile industry.
• the sheet has undergone a post-treatment step such as a dyeing, printing, chemical finishing (dispersion, emulsion or suspension, etc.), mechanical finishing step. (embossing, woolening, shearing, buckling, warping, sanforising, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modeling (as defined below), cutting, pleating, embroidery or incrustation of material.
• a post-treatment step such as a dyeing, printing, chemical finishing (dispersion, emulsion or suspension, etc.), mechanical finishing step. (embossing, woolening, shearing, buckling, warping, sanforising, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modeling (as defined below), cutting, pleating, embroidery or incrustation of material.
• the "heat-modeling" after-treatment refers to a process comprising the following steps: (i) quenching a non-woven textile sheet in hot water, (ii) laying the sheet still warm on a mold, and (iii) slightly stretch the leaf, (iv) dry the leaf. Step (i) makes it possible to dissolve the sericin slightly and thus relax the weft of the nonwoven. Step (ii) makes it possible to give the sheet the shape of the mold. Step (iii) ensures that the sheet takes the form of the mold correctly. Step (iv) may for example consist of leaving the sheet at room temperature until it dries. After drying the sheet permanently keeps the shape of the mold.
• the sheet has been heat-molded at a temperature below 60 ° C, preferably below 50 ° C, more preferably at a temperature of 40 ° C. In one embodiment, the sheet has a thickness of 0.025 to 5 mm, preferably 0.1 to 1 mm, and the sheet has been heat-molded. In one embodiment, the sheet has been tinted at a temperature below 60 ° C, preferably at a temperature below 40 ° C, more preferably cold (about 25 ° C).
• the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment leading to the extraction, denaturation and / or destruction of a sericin chosen from seric A, B and / or C. In one embodiment the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment of chemical primer, mechanical primer and / or thermoforming. In one embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment.
• the invention also relates to an article which comprises or consists of at least one sheet of nonwoven fabric of natural silk as described above.
• the article comprises at least one sheet as described above. According to one embodiment, the article consists of at least one sheet as described above. According to one embodiment, the article comprises at least one support, each support being coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet as described above. In one embodiment, the article comprises at least one support partially coated or covered by a sheet. In one embodiment, the article comprises at least one support completely coated or covered by a sheet. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially attached to the support. In another embodiment, the sheet is not attached to the support. In a specific embodiment, the support is placed on a raising means.
• the article comprises at least two sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk permanently associated.
• the leaves are associated by means of at least one sericin.
• the leaves are associated by means of natural silk threads comprising fibroin coated with at least one sericin.
• the article is a compartment comprising two sheets, associated on a part of their periphery with sericin, and comprising a space between the two sheets.
• the two sheets have the same area.
• the two sheets have different areas.
• the article has been post-processed to modify the properties or appearance of the sheet, as previously described.
• the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a non-woven fabric of natural silk.
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk is a sheet.
• the nonwoven fabric sheet of natural silk is as previously described.
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk is not a sheet.
• the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk, comprising the following steps:
• the surface of the support and the support do not include a hanging point to which the silkworm can fix the silk;
• the surface and / or the support comprises at least one means for limiting the progression of the silkworm
• the surface and / or the support is configured to limit the progression of the silkworm; (d) wait for the necessary time for the desired quantity of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the support, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk;
• the method may comprise a step "(f) separating the nonwoven fabric of natural silk obtained from the surface of the support".
• the silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry bombyx (Bombyx mori), the Tussah silkworm (Antheraea pernyi), the Japanese oak saturnie (Antheraea yamamaî), or the bombyx of the 1 ' all around (Samia cynthia).
• the silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry bombyx (Bombyx mori).
• the appropriate breeding conditions for driving the silkworm to secrete natural silk are standard sericulture and are well known to those skilled in the art.
• silkworm rearing includes feeding it with white mulberry leaves (Morus alba) for about 30 days.
• the worm will secrete continuously silk during a period whose duration is between 12 and 72 hours. In a typical embodiment, the silkworm will secrete for 20 to 50 hours, for example 48 hours. According to one embodiment, several silkworms are removed and deposited simultaneously and / or successively on the surface of the support. In one embodiment, the number of silkworms that are simultaneously present on the surface of a support is between 1 and 600, preferably between 1 and 400, more preferably between 1 and 300 silkworms per square meter of area. According to one embodiment, the process is carried out at a temperature of between 15 and 35 ° C, preferably between 20 and 25 ° C, more preferably at about 22 ° C.
• the method is implemented under a homogeneous light, preferably in the absence of any light gradient. According to one embodiment, the method is implemented under conditions of controlled ambient humidity, preferably with a humidity of between 40% and 20%, typically with a humidity of about 30%.
• the Applicant thinks that once deposited on the surface of the support, the worm secreting silk will seek three points hanging in space to suspend its future cocoon, and he succeeds, he weaves a cocoon around him instead of depositing the silk on the surface of the support.
• To obtain a non-woven fabric and not a cocoon it is necessary to place the silkworm in conditions that prevent the formation of the cocoon, that is to say, to prevent the silkworm to have access to three points hung in space.
• the surface of the support as well as the support does not include a hanging point at which the silkworm can fix silk, that is to say that it is preferable that the surface of the support, if it includes one or more hanging points, includes only hooked points which are all located in the same plane, thus placing the worm in conditions where it can not hang from cocoon in space.
• the support may include hanging points but it is preferable that they are located in the same plane as those possibly present on the surface and / or located out of range of the silkworm.
• the support may include one or more hooked "inaccessible" points, which the silkworm could not reach without falling off the support.
• the surface of the support is entirely two-dimensional in shape.
• the surface of the support is partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape, such as a convexity.
• the support surface is partially two-dimensional in shape and is partially three-dimensional in shape.
• the surface of the support comprises at least one convexity.
• the surface of the support is convex.
• the surface of the support is a half-sphere, preferably a half-sphere whose convexity is oriented upwards.
• the surface of the support is not concave (ie is "non-concave"). In a mode of realization, the surface of the support has no concavity.
• the surface of the support is two-dimensional and / or convex.
• the surface of the support is a closed volume. In one embodiment, the surface of the support is a closed volume and free of orders. According to one embodiment, a hanging point to which the silkworm can fix the silk is an asperity. In one embodiment, the surface of the support has asperities whose size is less than 3 mm, preferably less than 1 mm, more preferably less than 0.5 mm, even more preferably less than 0.1 mm. In one embodiment, the surface of the support has asperities whose dimension is greater than 0.05 mm, preferably greater than 0.01 mm, more preferably greater than 0.005 mm, even more preferably greater than 0.001 mm.
• the surface of the support does not have asperities whose dimension is greater than 3 mm, preferably does not have asperities whose dimension is greater than 1 mm, more preferably does not have asperities. whose dimension is greater than 0.5 mm, even more preferably does not have asperities whose dimension is greater than 0.1 mm.
• the surface of the support is smooth, that is to say devoid of asperities.
• An example of a surface with asperities is a rough surface such as sandpaper. Such a surface can be obtained for example from a smooth surface (such as plexiglass) by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by sanding.
• a hanging point to which the silkworm can fix the silk is a recess.
• the surface of the support comprises recesses whose width is less than 15 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferably less than 5 mm, even more preferably less than 1 mm.
• the surface of the support comprises recesses whose width is greater than 0.5 mm, preferably greater than 0.1 mm, more preferably greater than 0.05 mm, even more preferably greater than 0.01. mm.
• the surface of the support does not have recesses whose average width is greater than 1.5 cm, preferably does not have recesses whose width is greater than 1 cm, more preferably not has no recesses whose width is greater than 5 mm, even more preferably does not have recesses whose width is greater than 1 mm.
• the surface of the support is solid, that is to say devoid of recesses.
• An exemplary surface having recesses is a porous surface such as a mesh or sponge. Such a surface can be obtained for example from a solid surface by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by perforation.
• the sericin does not irreversibly adhere to the surface of the support, which allows to detach the non-woven fabric without damaging the textile.
• the surface is composed or made of a material impermeable to sericin.
• the surface of the support is made of glass, of metal, of inorganic polymer such as polysiloxanes (silicones), or of organic polymer such as polystyrene (PS), poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), for example Plexiglas® or Altuglas®.
• the surface of the support is of leather; woven or nonwoven fabric such as woven silk, cotton; or paper such as cardboard.
• the surface of the support is a sericin-permeable material, such as a non-woven fabric of natural silk.
• the surface of the support is partially or entirely made of a material that does not exhibit toxicity towards the silkworm.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is two-dimensional (the). In one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is an oval; a disk ; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or one of their combinations.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is partially or entirely of three-dimensional shape.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is a partially or completely regular volume.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron (for example a parallelepiped), an octahedron, regular dodecahedron and regular icosahedron; a cone ; a sphere ; a partially hollow sphere; a half sphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or one of their combinations.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is partially or fully three-dimensional and is a volume of irregular shape.
• the surface of the support and / or the support is a volume in the form of part of a garment or garment. In one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is symmetrical. In one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is asymmetrical. According to one embodiment, the surface of the support is at least 70 mm long and / or at least 70 mm in apparent diameter. According to one embodiment, the dimensions of the surface of the support can be modified after the deposition step of natural silk threads. In one embodiment, the dimensions of the surface are modified by means of a change in size of the support, for example by inflating-deflating, or by folding-unfolding.
• the support does not have, close to the surface of the support, hooked point at which the silkworm can fix the silk.
• the support does not include an attachment point at which the silkworm can fix the silk up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, even more preferably 50 mm from the surface of the support.
• the support does not include a hanging point at which the silkworm can fix the silk.
• the surface and / or support comprises at least one means for limiting the progression of the silkworm
• the surface and / or the support is configured to limit the progression of the silkworm.
• the surface and / or the support comprises at least one means for limiting the progression of the silkworm. According to one embodiment, the surface and / or the support is configured to limit the progression of the silkworm.
• the configuration for limiting the progression of the silkworm is that the support is raised, for example using at least one raising means.
• the silkworm thus sees its progression limited by the meeting of an empty space in front of it, and is forced to change direction, thus depositing again its thread on the surface of the support.
• the support is placed and / or fixed on a raising means, which is a part whose lateral dimensions are substantially reduced with respect to the lateral dimensions of the surface of the support, preferably reduced by 25%, plus preferentially reduced by 50%, even more preferably reduced by at least 75%.
• raising means are a tube, a column or a rod fixed on a base or on an axis.
• the support is horizontally placed and / or fixed on a raising means.
• the support comprises a horizontal portion including a surface, and this horizontal portion is elevated by means of another portion of the support.
• the horizontal portion overhangs an elongated vertical portion whose lateral dimensions are substantially reduced relative to the lateral dimensions of the surface, preferably reduced by 25%, more preferably reduced by 50%, even more preferably reduced by at least 75%.
• An example of raising means according to this embodiment is a flared base which is part of the support.
• the position of the support in space can be modified during the process. In one embodiment, it is possible to choose the surface of the support on which the silkworm will deposit the silk thread by orienting this surface so that this surface is the highest part of the support.
• the product resulting from the process is an article which comprises at least one support, each support being coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet as described above.
• the method does not include a step "(f) separating the nonwoven fabric of natural silk obtained from the surface of the support".
• the method comprises a step of bonding together at least two sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk.
• the portions of the sheets to be associated are slightly moistened, then juxtaposed, and then steps (a) to (e) of the method are implemented to ensure permanent bonding of the sheets to one another by means of the deposit of new natural silk threads.
• the sheets are associated with at least one edge.
• the sheets are superimposed on all or part of their surface.
• the dry route, the melted route and the wet route are non-woven textile manufacturing processes well known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment, the nonwoven fabric of natural silk is obtained neither by the dry route, nor by the molten route, nor by the wet route.
• the method according to the invention may optionally include one or more post-processing steps, and in particular finishing techniques known to those skilled in the art.
• the method may include post-treatment steps generally applied to silk in the textile industry.
• the post-treatment step is a dyeing, printing, chemical finishing (dispersing, emulsifying or suspending, etc.), mechanical finishing (embossing, woolening, shear, buckling, ramage, sanforising, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modeling (as defined below), cutting, pleating, embroidery or inlay of material.
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has been heat-molded at a temperature below 60 ° C, preferably below 50 ° C, more preferably at a temperature of 40 ° C. In one embodiment, the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has a thickness of 0.025 to 5 mm, preferably 0.1 to 1 mm, and the fabric has been heat-molded. In one embodiment, the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has been tinted at a temperature below 60 ° C, preferably at a temperature below 40 ° C, more preferably cold (about 25 ° C).
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has undergone no post-treatment leading to the extraction, denaturation and / or destruction of a sericin chosen from seric A, B and / or C
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has not undergone any post-treatment of chemical primer, mechanical primer and / or thermoforming.
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk has not undergone any post-treatment.
• Figures 1 to 4 are photographs showing examples of nonwoven textile sheets of natural silk of two-dimensional shape according to the invention.
• Figures 5 to 8 are photographs showing examples of sheets according to the invention, nonwoven fabric of natural silk having undergone post-treatment.
• Figures 9 to 15 and 24 are photographs showing examples of articles according to the invention, comprising or consisting of at least one sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk, and / or comprising a support coated or covered in all or part by a sheet of non-woven textile of natural silk.
• Figure 16 is a diagram showing the different steps of a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• Figure 17 is a photograph showing an exemplary support usable in a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• Figures 18 and 19 are photographs showing silkworms during a step of a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• Figures 20 and 21 are diagrams showing particular embodiments of a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• Figure 22 is a diagram showing a set of supports usable in a method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• Figures 23 and 25 to 30 are photographs showing examples of sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention, partially or fully three-dimensional shape.
• Figure 31 is a photograph showing an example of nonwoven textile sheet of natural silk according to the invention, of partially three-dimensional shape. This leaf is shaped like a garment and has been post-treated.
• FIGS. 1 and 2 show two sheets of non-woven textile of natural silk of two-dimensional shape.
• the sheet shown in Figure 1 is a square sheet of dimensions 70 mm x 70 mm x 0.2 mm with four protruding edges of width 3 mm, giving it a thickness of 1.5 mm at its periphery.
• the sheet shown in FIG. 2 is a square sheet having a thickness of 500 mm and a thickness of 0.5 mm, with four protruding edges of width 3 mm giving it a thickness of 1 mm at its periphery.
• Figure 3 shows sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk of two-dimensional shape, which are disks of diameter 70 mm and thickness 0.3 mm having a projecting rim of width 3 mm giving them a thickness of 1 mm at its periphery (Figure 4).
• Figure 4 shows a nonwoven fabric sheet of natural silk of two-dimensional shape, which is a rectangle without edges obtained by cutting a sheet according to the invention, dimensions 60 mm x 100 mm x 0.2 mm.
• Figure 23 shows a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk of partially three-dimensional shape, which is a hexagonal-based cone having a protruding rim at the periphery of said base. The edges of the cone are marked by the presence of a protruding rim along the entire length of the ridge.
• Figure 25 shows a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk of fully three-dimensional shape, which is a rectangular base dome having a protruding rim at the periphery of the rectangle.
• Figure 26 shows a non-woven textile sheet of natural silk of fully three-dimensional shape, which is an ovoid.
• Figure 27 shows a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk of fully three-dimensional shape, which is a hemisphere having a protruding rim at the periphery of the section plane.
• Figure 28 shows a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk of fully three-dimensional shape, which is a partially recessed sphere.
• Figure 29 shows a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk of partially three-dimensional shape having a projecting rim at its periphery, which is in the shape of flower petals.
• Figure 30 shows a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk of partially three-dimensional shape, which is an asymmetrical shape.
• Example 2 Leaves of nonwoven fabric of natural silk after post-treatment
• Figures 5 to 8 show sheets of non-woven natural silk fabric having been subjected to a post-treatment step: printing (Figure 5), thermo-modeling and dyeing (Figure 6), sewing ( Figure 7). ), bead embroidery ( Figure 8).
• Figure 31 shows a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk of partially three-dimensional shape, which is shaped like a garment. The garment is a corset and has been post-treated several times: sewing a hem on the rim, perforation of the edge with integration of rings and threading a lace.
• Example 3 Articles comprising or consisting of at least one sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk, and / or comprising a support coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk
• Figures 9 and 24 show a parallelepiped three-dimensional article comprising five sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk permanently associated with each other by their edges. This article was obtained by means of the method described in Example S as illustrated by the diagram of FIG. 20.
• the periphery of the recessed face comprises a protruding flange and the edges of the parallelepiped are marked by the presence of a protruding rim along the entire length of the ridge.
• Figure 10 shows an article comprising a bowl-shaped lower part and a hemispherical upper part consisting of a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk of fully three-dimensional shape.
• the hemisphere was made by a method analogous to that described in Example 4, wherein the support comprises at least one hemispherical surface. It could also be obtained using the method described in Example 6 as illustrated by the diagram of Figure 21, followed by a step of cutting the resulting sphere.
• this article can serve as a candle.
• an electric circuit and a bulb this article can serve as an indoor lamp.
• Figure 11 shows an article made of sheets of nonwoven fabric of natural silk cut and associated to form an artificial flower.
• Figure 12 shows such a flower attached to a plastic rod.
• Fig. 13 shows an article consisting of a support, which is a glass container, covered on its entire outer surface by a non-woven fabric sheet of natural silk.
• This article can serve as a candle holder, as illustrated in Figure 14 which shows the article associated with a lit candle placed inside the container.
• Figure 15 shows an article comprising a support which is a leather disc 7 cm in diameter, which is coated on its entire surface with a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk. This support is therefore fully included in the sheet.
• Example 4 Process for manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk
• Figure 16 shows the various steps of an exemplary method of manufacturing a nonwoven fabric of natural silk according to the invention.
• the surface of the support used is typically two-dimensional in shape; or of three-dimensional and convex form; smooth or not including asperities whose size is greater than 0.1 mm; and full, non-concave and devoid of concavities. It is made of plastic (PS, PMMA) or glass, which are impervious to sericin.
• the support and its surface are in the form of squares, disks, half-sphere or other forms.
• the dimensions of the support are variable and at least 70 mm long or in diameter.
• the deposition surface of the silk threads consists of the entire upper surface of the support.
• the silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry bombyx ⁇ Bombyx mon).
• the support is configured to limit the progression of the silkworm. It is horizontally fixed on a raising means, which is a rod held in a foot, for example a rectangular foot.
• the stem and the foot may be in any material, and are typically metal or wood. Any suitable method of fixing the support to the rod may be suitable, typically the attachment is carried out by means of an adhesive paper or an adhesive gum (Patafix® type).
• the zone of fixation of the stem with the support could constitute a hanging point for the silk, but as said zone is located below the support, the silkworm can not reach it and thus can not form a cocoon . Examples of support with elevation means used in the process are shown in Figures 17, 18 and 22.
• the mulberry moth (Bombyx mon) larva is fed with white mulberry leaves (Morus alba) for 30 days. Breeding the caterpillar to reach the stage of development where it secretes drool is classic sericulture, well known to the person skilled in the art. The process is carried out at 22 ° C under homogeneous light and with an ambient humidity of about 30%.
• One or more silkworms are removed and then deposited simultaneously on the support at a time when they secrete silk, and removed from the support when they have finished secreting all their silk.
• the number of worms deposited is adapted.
• the number of silkworms deposited simultaneously on the support depends on the dimensions of the support and the desired silk thickness, but it is typically 400 vers / m 2 , ie 4 vers / dm 2 . It is then expected the time necessary for the desired amount of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the support, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk.
• the silkworm is removed from the nonwoven fabric of natural silk obtained.
• the nonwoven fabric of natural silk obtained is separated from the surface of the support.
• a sheet of non-woven fabric of natural silk is obtained by means of this procedure. Examples of sheets obtained by this process are listed in Table 2.
• E thickness of the sheet (mm) measured at the center of the sheet
• NV number of silkworms in a group of worms deposited simultaneously on the surface
• NG number of groups of silkworms deposited on the surface
• NT total number of silkworms used for the production of the leaf.
• Example 5 Manufacture of articles comprising at least two sheets
• an article is manufactured by the following method, shown schematically in FIG.
• a first sheet is made by following the method previously described, then this sheet is detached and a second sheet is manufactured in the same manner and left in place on the support.
• One edge of each two leaves is then slightly moistened, which causes a partial dissolution of the sericin.
• the two edges are immediately put in contact, and the drying of the sericin keeps the two sheets joined by an edge.
• Silkworms are deposited on the support, and deposit silk which will permanently associate the two leaves between them by the edge. It is also possible to secure the sheets while the manufacture of the second sheet is not yet complete, in which case the silkworms will simultaneously manufacture the second sheet and associate with the first sheet. By repeating these steps several times, an article comprising at least two sheets permanently associated with each other by natural silk is obtained.
• FIG. 20 notably makes it possible to manufacture a parallelepipedal article comprising five sheets of natural silk forming five faces of a parallelepiped, such as the article represented in FIG. 9.
• EXAMPLE 6 Manufacture of a Three-Dimensional Spherical Sheet According to a variant of the process described in Example 4, an article is manufactured by the following method, shown schematically in FIG.
• the support is a sphere or pseudosphere. As they move so as to avoid falling, the silkworms will only deposit the drool on the highest surface of the support. When the desired natural silk thickness is deposited, the support is detached from the raising means and oriented so that the still un-coated portion of the support becomes the highest part. It is not necessary to remove the silkworms from the support during the movement of the support. The worm or worms will continue to deposit their drool on the upper surface of the support, and thus by successive displacement of the support, it is possible to cover the entire surface of the support with natural silk. The resulting sheet has no protruding rim at its periphery.
• the support is an inflatable balloon and a reduced surface, which is one which comprises a deflation means (for example a nozzle), is not covered with natural silk.
• a deflation means for example a nozzle
• the support is solid and is not removed after the manufacture of the sheet.
• a spherical or pseudo-spherical article comprising a support partially or completely covered with a natural silk sheet is thus obtained.
• a set of supports shown in FIG. 22 is used.
• the supports are configured in such a way that a silk worm that falls from its support falls on another support of the set, instead of falling on the ground.
• This set of supports is advantageous because it makes it possible to reduce the number of interventions necessary to keep the silkworms on the surface of the support where they must deposit their slime.
• a tray is also placed below the support assembly, thereby recovering the silkworms that would have fallen from supporting support to the full height of the media assembly.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Absorbent Articles And Supports Therefor (AREA)

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• 2016
  • 2016-05-20 FR FR1654545A patent/FR3051487B1/fr active Active
• 2017
  • 2017-05-19 EP EP17730860.8A patent/EP3458634A1/de active Pending
  • 2017-05-19 US US16/303,523 patent/US20200325606A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2017-05-19 JP JP2019513490A patent/JP2019518151A/ja active Pending
  • 2017-05-19 WO PCT/FR2017/051229 patent/WO2017198969A1/fr unknown
  • 2017-05-19 CN CN201780038081.6A patent/CN109661486A/zh active Pending
  • 2017-05-19 KR KR1020187035658A patent/KR20190013819A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation

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