EP3226713B1 - Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support - Google Patents

Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3226713B1
EP3226713B1 EP15821016.1A EP15821016A EP3226713B1 EP 3226713 B1 EP3226713 B1 EP 3226713B1 EP 15821016 A EP15821016 A EP 15821016A EP 3226713 B1 EP3226713 B1 EP 3226713B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
pavilion
gemstone
mount
crown
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP15821016.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3226713A1 (fr
Inventor
Romain MOYSE
Marie-Adélaïde LO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International AG
Original Assignee
Cartier International AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cartier International AG filed Critical Cartier International AG
Publication of EP3226713A1 publication Critical patent/EP3226713A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3226713B1 publication Critical patent/EP3226713B1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a jewelry stone, made of natural or synthetic material, in particular a faceted diamond, comprising a visible front part called the crown and a back part at least partially hidden when the stone is mounted on a support, said back part being called the cylinder head and being separated from the crown by an intermediate part between said crown and said cylinder head, called girdle, said jewelery stone comprising fixing means arranged to allow its fixing on said support, said fixing means comprising a metal connection zone located on said cylinder head.
  • Jewelry stones in particular diamonds, are intended to be fixed on a support or on a setting to form, for example, jewelry or timepieces.
  • the fixing of the stones on a support is carried out by depositing on a part of the peripheral surface of the stone, a metallic coating making it possible to firmly secure them to the support by a process of welding, riveting or similar.
  • the publication FR 2 042 156 A describes a jewelry stone having a yoke on which is deposited a layer of metal.
  • This layer of metal allows the stone to be welded onto a support.
  • such an arrangement has the disadvantage of being unattractive, because this metallized layer is visible due to the fact that certain incident rays which are reflected by an exit interface of the stone located in the metallized zone, are returned by the stone by total reflection and return the image of the metallized layer.
  • the publication JP 09173115 A describes a technique for fixing a jewelry stone, such as a diamond on a support, according to which a first layer, such as for example an alloy containing titanium (Ti), copper (Cu), silver (Ag) and/or zirconium (Zr), is deposited on the diamond, and a second layer of metal is deposited on the support, for example a gold alloy (Au).
  • a first layer such as for example an alloy containing titanium (Ti), copper (Cu), silver (Ag) and/or zirconium (Zr)
  • a second layer of metal is deposited on the support, for example a gold alloy (Au).
  • the two layers of metal are then welded together to firmly fix the diamond on the support.
  • the deposition of the metal layer is carried out on the cylinder head of the diamond, more particularly, in the middle of the cylinder head of the diamond and on a surface less than the total surface of the cylinder head.
  • the publication WO 00/57743 A2 relates to a system for setting a precious stone in a piece of hollow jewelry.
  • This system includes a device for creating a metal attachment zone secured to the surface of the gemstone and a connection device for attaching the metal attachment zone to a shell of the hollow piece of jewelry.
  • a circumferential portion of the surface of the gemstone is metallized and a layer of metal is deposited by electrolysis on the metallized circumferential part of the surface of the gemstone.
  • This fastening belt is formed in a groove cut in the stone and it encroaches at least partially on the frontal part of the stone (ie the crown).
  • the publication WO 2014/030068 A2 relates to a setting that includes a gemstone, a mounting surface, and a brazed joint.
  • the brazed joint is formed from a reactive metal alloy, which alloy allows certain points on the surface of the gemstone to adhere directly to the mounting surface.
  • the fixing techniques described in this publication run the risk of not ensuring a sufficiently reliable or effective hold of the stone, and the brazing process described requires high temperatures, generally above 800° C., which are greedy energy and can possibly damage a delicate mounting surface of a bracket for a high-end part.
  • the document US 2014/0047867 A1 discloses the preamble of claims 1 and 12.
  • the present invention aims to overcome the above drawbacks by proposing a jewelry stone arranged to be able to be fixed on its support invisibly and a method for fixing this stone on its support, the fixing obtained being effective, reliable, durable and invisible.
  • the invention relates to a jewelery stone as defined in the preamble, characterized in that said connection zone is located on part or all of a peripheral sector of limited width of said cylinder head, in which the incident rays on the crown penetrating into the stone by an air/stone interface, are either reflected by a first cylinder head/air interface on a point of the cylinder head lower than said connecting zone or totally reflected by said first cylinder head/air interface of said stone in the peripheral sector comprising said connecting zone, and are refracted outside of said stone, at the rear of said cylinder head, through at least one second cylinder head/air interface of said stone, and in that the peripheral sector comprises a strip extending over 360° around the cylinder head and covering an area corresponding at least approximately to about 20 to 35% of the surface of the cylinder head.
  • said peripheral sector is located on said yoke close to said girdle.
  • Said peripheral sector can preferably comprise a so-called invisible zone in which no incident ray refracted at the air/crown interface is reflected by the first cylinder head/air interface.
  • the metal fastening means may comprise a plurality of metal layers deposited in a sandwich.
  • the plurality of metal layers preferably includes an inner layer forming a carbide layer with the stone.
  • said internal layer comprises titanium, tantalum, hafnium or niobium.
  • the plurality of metal layers also preferably includes an outer layer comprising the same material as that of the support intended to receive the stone.
  • the outer layer and said support comprises gold.
  • the plurality of metallic layers comprises an intermediate layer forming a diffusion barrier between said inner layer and said outer layer.
  • the intermediate layer can include platinum.
  • the metal fixing means are deposited by a PVD process.
  • the invention relates to a fixing method as defined in the preamble, characterized in that said connecting zone is deposited on part or all of a peripheral sector of limited width of said cylinder head, in which the rays incident on the crown penetrating in the stone by an air/stone interface, are either reflected by a first yoke/air interface on a point of the yoke lower than said connection zone or totally reflected by said first yoke interface /air of said stone in the peripheral sector comprising said connecting zone, and are refracted outside of said stone, at the rear of said cylinder head, through at least a second cylinder head/air interface of said stone, and in that a band is deposited in the peripheral sector extending over 360° around the cylinder head and covering a zone corresponding at least approximately to approximately 20 to 35% of the surface of the cylinder head.
  • said peripheral sector is advantageously delimited from said yoke near said girdle.
  • a plurality of metallic layers can be deposited in a sandwich to form the metallic fastening means. It is also possible to deposit an internal layer forming a carbide layer with the stone, this internal layer comprising titanium, tantalum, hafnium or niobium. It is also possible to deposit an outer layer comprising the same material as that of the support intended to receive the stone before fixing said stone.
  • the present invention relates to a jewelry stone which will be referred to below as the "stone" 10.
  • the stone 10 according to the invention may be natural or made of synthetic material and may in particular consist of a faceted diamond, but it may also consist of an emerald , a sapphire, a ruby or another type of stone.
  • the stone 10 is a round diamond having multiple cut facets 11. This embodiment is of course not limiting and the present invention extends to various shapes of stones.
  • the stone 10 has a front part which is commonly called a crown 12, visible when the stone 10 is fixed on a support (not shown). It is common for it to be cut so as to present multiple facets 11.
  • the stone 10 comprises a dorsal part, commonly called the cylinder head 13, which is delimited with respect to the crown 12 by a intermediate part, commonly called girdle 14.
  • the yoke 13 is generally cut in a point and can also have multiple facets 11. Usually, the yoke 13 is at least partially hidden when the stone is mounted on its support.
  • the yoke 13 is usually used to allow the fixing of the stone 10 on a support in such a way that only the crown 12 is visible, and ensuring that the fixing of the stone 10 is as little visible as possible.
  • a goal sought by jewelers is to mask the method of attachment of the stone 10 while ensuring the reliability of its attachment and an optimum brilliance or shine of the stone 10, and this whatever the application, therefore independently the type of support, which may consist, for example, of a timepiece or a piece of jewelry.
  • incident light rays R1, R2 which penetrate the stone 10 through the crown 12 can undergo one or more total reflections on the stone/air interfaces in the cylinder head 13, so that the incident light is returned through the stone/air interface of the crown 12 and gives the desired shine and aesthetics to the stone 10.
  • a ray R1 which strikes a facet 11 of the crown 12 of the stone 10 at a point A1, at an angle i 1 , relative to the normal H A1 at the point of incidence A1 of the ray R1, penetrates the stone 10 and undergoes a phenomenon of refraction at the air/stone interface of the crown 12.
  • the refracted ray R'1 is deflected by an angle i2 with respect to the normal H A1 , this angle i2 being less than the incident angle i 1 of the incident ray R1, because the refractive index n 1 of the air is less than the refractive index n 2 of stone 10.
  • This refracted ray R'1 travels inside stone 10 and strikes the wall of cylinder head 13, more exactly the first cylinder head/air interface at a point B1, on which it undergoes a total reflection.
  • the limit angle i 1 is substantially equal to 24°.
  • the reflected ray R'1, at an angle i r at point B1 is then sent to a second cylinder head/air interface at a point C1 where it undergoes a new total reflection, before being sent back to a third crown/air interface at a point D1. It undergoes a refraction such that the exit angle i4 is greater than the incident angle i 3 at point D1.
  • the incident light at the point A1 of the crown 12 is returned to the point D1 of the crown 12 in the form of a ray R" 1 , so that the stone 10 shines with all its brilliance, when the above conditions above are united.
  • a second incident light beam R2 is represented on the figure 1 .
  • the beam R2 penetrates substantially perpendicular to the central area 121 of the crown 12 by propagating in a straight line without undergoing any refraction at the point of incidence A2. It penetrates stone 10 and reaches the first cylinder head/air interface where it undergoes a first total reflection at point B2, then a second total reflection at point C2 at the level of the second cylinder head/air interface.
  • the light emerges substantially perpendicular to the range central 121 of the crown 12 without undergoing refraction. As before, the incident light is restored after having followed a more or less complex optical path inside the stone 10.
  • the stone 10 according to the invention is provided with metal fixing means 20 to allow its fixing on a support (not shown).
  • These metal attachment means 20 comprise, in this embodiment, a connecting zone 21 which is located on part or all of a limited peripheral sector 131 of the cylinder head 13.
  • the metal attachment means 20 do not modify the path normal light, but are arranged in the peripheral sector 131 so that they are made invisible. Indeed, the peripheral sector 131 of the yoke 13 has particular optical properties which will be explained in the following description.
  • the connecting zone 21 is in the form of a metal band 22 which extends over 360°, around the cylinder head, as illustrated in the figure 5 .
  • the strip 22 may be located directly under the girdle 14.
  • the metal strip 22 may be formed by a coating or metal layer which has a limited width with respect to the height of the yoke 13 and extends at least partly over the peripheral sector 131 of the yoke 13. As a result, the peripheral sector 131 can be partially or totally metallized depending on the support.
  • the peripheral sector 131 includes the metal strip 22 which covers an area corresponding to 20 to 35% of the surface of the cylinder head 13.
  • an incident ray R3 is sent to one of the facets 11 of the crown 12 of the stone 10 at a point of impact A3, close to the girdle 14. It will be noted that the ray R3 is sent to the facet 11 adjacent to the girdle 14. It penetrates crown 12 in the form of a refracted ray R′3 approaching normal H A3 of facet 11 at point A3 and falls on the first cylinder head/air interface of cylinder head 13 in peripheral sector 131 where the metal strip 22 is deposited. The ray R′3 undergoes a total reflection at the point B3.
  • the image of the metallized or opaque metal strip 22 which is located in this peripheral sector 131 is not visible at the front of the stone 10, that is to say that an observer will not see not the connection zone 21 of the stone 10, since the metal strip 22 serving as fastening means 20 will not be visible by observing the crown 12.
  • a second ray R4 shown at picture 2 is refracted at a point of impact A4 on crown 12, refracted by penetrating stone 10 in the form of a ray R'4 which is reflected on the first cylinder head/air interface, below metal strip 22 , at point B4. After full reflection, it strikes the second cylinder head/air interface, which is opposite the first cylinder head/air interface, at a point C4 where it undergoes a second total reflection at the point C4. It is then reflected towards crown 12 which it passes through at point D4 while undergoing refraction.
  • the ray R4 joins, as far as its optical path is concerned, the rays R1 and R2 of the figure 1 and returns the incident light by helping to give shine to the stone 10. Since this ray R4 is not reflected in the peripheral sector 131, the latter is visible to the observer.
  • the peripheral sector 131 also comprises a so-called invisible zone ZI in which an incident ray R3 refracted at the air/crown interface can only be reflected by the first cylinder head/air interface outside of said invisible zone ZI. In other words, no ray is reflected in the invisible area.
  • This invisible zone ZI is located under the girdle and its height depends on the height of the girdle, which is typically 2 - 6% of the diameter of the stone. For example, with a stone 10 having a diameter of 2 mm, the width of the invisible zone according to this variant can be 0.25 mm.
  • connection zone 21 comprising the strip 22 does not completely cover the peripheral sector 131.
  • peripheral sector 131 makes it possible to deposit the connection zone 21 on part or all of this peripheral sector 131 so that they are made invisible to an observer looking at the stone 10 by the crown 12. It has been observed in round faceted diamonds that the peripheral sector 131 is located directly under the girdle 14 and extends over an area less than the total area of the breech 13.
  • the metal fastening means 20 are deposited on the surface of the stone by a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) process.
  • PVD Physical Vapor Deposition
  • the use of PVD makes it possible to form the bonding zone 21 in a controlled and precise manner on the surface of the stone.
  • the PVD deposition step can be preceded by a step of cleaning the surface of the stone as well as possibly by the deposition of an adhesion layer.
  • the PVD deposition step takes place in an enclosure comprising an inert gas, such as argon, at a pressure between 10 -4 to 10 -2 mbar.
  • the metallic fastening means 20 comprises a plurality of metallic layers sandwiched on the surface of the stone.
  • an internal metal layer of titanium or a titanium-based alloy
  • platinum or a platinum-based alloy
  • an outer layer of gold or a gold-based alloy
  • the titanium layer which preferably has a thickness of 40-500 nm, plays an adhesion role, the titanium forming a carbide layer with the stone.
  • Other materials capable of forming a carbide layer with the stone can alternatively be used instead of titanium as the internal layer.
  • the outer gold layer which is preferably 100-2000 nm thick, allows attachment to a gold support by soldering or thermal compression as described below.
  • the material of the outer layer can be adapted accordingly for the latter.
  • the platinum layer which preferably has a thickness of 60-500 nm, forms a diffusion barrier between the titanium layer and the gold layer, but other materials can also be used as an intermediate layer. Other layers apart from those mentioned can also be present in the fastening means 20.
  • a chemical cleaning step may take place to remove any metallic material present in unwanted locations to ensure that the bonding area 21 is well positioned and does not is not discernible as explained in detail above.
  • the stone comprising the metal fixing means 20 can be fixed to a corresponding support by various techniques, but preferably this fixing is by thermal compression or by welding.
  • a metal layer is also formed by a PVD process on the part of the surface of the support intended to receive the stone (and in particular the metal fastening means 20 ).
  • the metallic layer deposited on the support is preferably also made of gold. This deposition of a metal layer on the support can also be preceded by a step of cleaning the surface of the support in question.
  • the stone is fixed to the support by thermal compression, and the metal fixing means 20 comprising an outer layer of gold are compressed against a layer of gold deposited on the support.
  • a compression machine operating at a force of 2-20 kg/mm 2 and at a temperature of 100-600°C (or more preferably 200-450°C) for a duration of 20 seconds at 60 minutes, is used for this step.
  • the stone is fixed to the support by a welding machine under a force of 5-50 g/mm 2 and a temperature of 280-350° C. for a duration of 1 second to 5 minutes.
  • a preform of suitable material and shape e.g., a conical gold-tin ring
  • the carrier preferably has a layer of gold previously deposited on its surface.
  • a chemical cleaning step may take place after welding to remove any remaining debris.
  • the metal strip 22 is not discernible because it is located in the invisible zone ZI just below the girdle or all the incident rays R3 which are reflected by the peripheral sector 131, at the level of a first yoke/air interface, in which the metal strip 22 is located, are returned to a second yoke/air interface at an angle less than the limiting angle i l of total reflection, so that they are refracted and evacuated at the back of the breech 13 of the stone 10 without being seen.
  • the invention makes it possible to achieve the set goals, namely to make the connecting zone 21 of the stone 10 invisible when it is fixed to its support.
  • the deposition of the metal fixing means 20 on the cylinder head by a PVD process allows the formation of a metal connection zone 21 of a controlled size and at a precise position.
  • this connecting zone 21 is understood as a metal band 22 over 360° around the cylinder head, which allows reliable and robust fixing to a support even if the stone is small and the band 22 is relatively thin in lenght.
  • the stone comprising the metal fixing means 20 can be advantageously fixed to the support under conditions where the temperatures do not exceed 600°C, and more preferably do not exceed 450°C.
EP15821016.1A 2014-12-02 2015-11-30 Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support Active EP3226713B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH18562014 2014-12-02
PCT/CH2015/000175 WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2015-11-30 Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3226713A1 EP3226713A1 (fr) 2017-10-11
EP3226713B1 true EP3226713B1 (fr) 2022-08-24

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP15821016.1A Active EP3226713B1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2015-11-30 Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20180042345A1 (zh)
EP (1) EP3226713B1 (zh)
JP (1) JP6807839B2 (zh)
CN (1) CN107105839B (zh)
WO (1) WO2016086323A1 (zh)

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3226713A1 (fr) 2017-10-11
CN107105839A (zh) 2017-08-29
WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2016-06-09
JP2017536183A (ja) 2017-12-07
CN107105839B (zh) 2020-08-14
US20180042345A1 (en) 2018-02-15
JP6807839B2 (ja) 2021-01-06

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