EP2790654A2 - Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux

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Publication number
EP2790654A2
EP2790654A2 EP12798764.2A EP12798764A EP2790654A2 EP 2790654 A2 EP2790654 A2 EP 2790654A2 EP 12798764 A EP12798764 A EP 12798764A EP 2790654 A2 EP2790654 A2 EP 2790654A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
psoriasis
cell carcinoma
dermatitis
salt
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP12798764.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Geneviève BONNECHÈRE - DELSTANCHE
Olivier Henry
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Italmatch Chemicals SpA
Original Assignee
Italmatch Chemicals SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Italmatch Chemicals SpA filed Critical Italmatch Chemicals SpA
Priority to EP12798764.2A priority Critical patent/EP2790654A2/fr
Publication of EP2790654A2 publication Critical patent/EP2790654A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K31/715—Polysaccharides, i.e. having more than five saccharide radicals attached to each other by glycosidic linkages; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ethers, esters
    • A61K31/733—Fructosans, e.g. inulin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound, such as carboxymethylinulin for skin or hair care.
  • Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.
  • the epidermis is in contact with the outside environment. Its role is to protect the body from dehydration and external aggressions, whether chemical, mechanical, physical or infectious.
  • the main clinical signs of ageing skin include the appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles, increasing with age. These wrinkles are deep, medium or superficial, affecting especially the nasolabial folds, periorbital area, the contour of the lips, forehead (frown lines), those fine lines and wrinkles resulting in a depression or grooves the surface of the skin.
  • hyaluronic acid may be used in many cosmetic applications, such as anti-ageing applications. It also plays an important role in hydration and skin elasticity.
  • the hyaluronic acid used in cosmetic formulations is generally in the form of sodium hyaluronate. To increase its effectiveness, it has also been proposed for use in injection, mesotherapy or as filler for wrinkles.
  • EP191 1439 discloses solid compositions comprising hyaluronic acid applicable to human skin and gellable on contact with water.
  • compositions are prepared in the form of a flexible solid film that can be used in cosmetic or therapeutic applications.
  • EP 2347755 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising hyaluronic acid to reduce wrinkles and/or depth pores.
  • hyaluronic acid and salts thereof have major drawbacks.
  • Such derivatives are prepared by enzymatic or biosynthesis by Streptococcus and have a solubility in water lower than 1wt.% at room temperature.
  • aqueous solutions comprising hyaluronic acid derivatives tend to form gels or form viscous solutions which are hardly processable.
  • the present invention addresses the problem of the state of the art and at least partly overcome the above-discussed drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the present invention relates to a carboxylated fructan compound for cosmetic or therapeutic use.
  • the present invention refers to a carboxylated fructan compound or a pharmaceutical composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound for use as medicine. Such therapeutic effect may be obtained due to the influence of the carboxylated fructan compound on the filaggrin content in epidermis.
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a carboxylated fructan compound for the cosmetic treatment of skin, hair or keratin substances.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be included in a cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • the performance of the carboxylated fructan compound can be further enhanced when used in combination with at least one salt of mono or diglycolate.
  • the presence of at least one salt of mono or diglycolate in the composition allows favoring the hydration of the epidermis.
  • the hydration of the epidermis is important to correct depression of the skin or to remove ageing effect on the skin.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate is suitable as hyaluronic acid substituent.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate exhibits similar or better results than hyaluronic acid regarding cosmetic treatments. Unexpected therapeutic effect of the carboxylated fructan compound alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate was also observed.
  • the present invention relates to a method for hardening or hydrating the epidermis, or enhancing barrier properties of the epidermis, or increasing the content of filaggrin of the epidermis comprising the step of applying a present composition comprising the carboxylated fructan compound optionally in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate, onto the surface of the epidermis.
  • Fig. 1 represents the percentage of moisture absorption of various samples at 81 % of relative humidity over time.
  • Fig. 2 represents the percentage of moisture absorption of various samples at 43% of relative humidity over time.
  • Fig. 3 represents the percentage of moisture retention of various samples at 43% of relative humidity over time.
  • Fig. 4 represents the percentage of moisture retention of various samples in presence of silica gel over time.
  • Fig. 5 represents the electrical resistance (Ohm/10 3 * cm 2 ) of the epidermis when various samples are applied thereon.
  • Fig. 6 represents the relative filaggrin content of various samples comprising either carboxymethylinulin or hyaluronic acid.
  • the present invention relates to a carboxylated fructan compound.
  • Said carboxylated fructan compound may be selected from the group consisting of:
  • dicarboxyfructan having a degree of oxidation (DO) of from 10 to 100% expressed as a molar percentage of monosaccharide units converted into the corresponding dicarboxy analogues
  • fructan polycarboxylic acid having a degree of carboxyalkylation or carboxyacylation of from 0.2 to 3.0, or
  • Fructans used as starting material for producing the carboxylated fructans are oligo- and polysaccharides which have a majority of anhydrofructose units, and can have a polydisperse chain length distribution and can be of straight- or branched-chain.
  • the fructan contains mainly beta-2,1 bonds, as in inulin.
  • the fructans, and the preferred inulin can be products obtained directly from a vegetable source or other sources as well as products in which the average chain length has been modified, increased or reduced, by fractionation, enzymatic synthesis or hydrolysis.
  • Carboxylated fructans with modified average chain length can be made from fructans with enzymatically increased chain length, fructan hydrolysis products having shortened chains and fractionated products having a modified chain length.
  • Fractionating of fructans such as inulin can be achieved, for example, by means of known techniques including low temperature crystallization (see WO 94/01849), column chromatography (see WO 94/12541 ), membrane filtration (see EP-A-0440074, EP-A-0627490) or selective precipitation with alcohol.
  • Hydrolysis to yield shorter fructans can be carried out, for example, enzymatically (endo-insulase), chemically (water and acid) or by heterogeneous catalysis (acid column).
  • Reduced, oxidized, hydroxyalkylated and/or crosslinked fructans can also represent suitable starting materials to produce the carboxylated fructans.
  • the fructans have an average chain length (degree of polymerization, DP) of at least 3 to about 1000. Preferably, the average chain length is from 3 to 60, in particular of from 5 to 30 monosaccharide units.
  • a preferred fructan is inulin (beta-2,1 -fructan) or a modified inulin, and these preferred carboxylated inulins and modified inulins are made accordingly.
  • Dicarboxyfructans can be obtained through oxidation of the fructan raw material, and accordingly the preferred dicarboxyinulins can be obtained through oxidation of the inulin raw material.
  • the anhydrofructose units are converted, with ring opening, into dicarboxy(hydroxyethoxy)ethyleneoxy units.
  • the oxidation can proceed in one step with hypohalite, as described in WO 91/17189, or in two steps with periodate and chlorite, as described in WO 95/12619.
  • Preferred degrees of oxidation (DO) are in the range of from 20 to 90%, the DO being the (molar) percentage of monosaccharide units converted into the corresponding dicarboxy analogues.
  • Fructan polycarboxylic acid is preferably inulin polycarboxylic acid which can be prepared by successive oxidation and carboxyalkylation of the selected starting material.
  • the material has a DO (degree of oxidation) of from 0.2 to 2.0 and a degree of carboxy-alkyl/-acyl substitution of from 0.2 to 3, preferably from 1.5 to 2.7.
  • 6-carboxyfructan is preferably 6-carboxy inulin, which is a well known material. It can be obtained by oxidation in accordance with the method of WO 95/07303.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be selected from the group consisting of carboxyalkylinulin having 1 or 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety (e.g. carboxymethylinulin and/or carboxyethylinulin) and having a degree of substitution of from 1 .5 to 2.7.
  • Carboxymethylinulin can be prepared by reaction of the fructan with chloroacetic acid as described in WO 95/15984.
  • Carboxylethylinulin can be prepared in accordance with the method of WO 96/34017.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be carboxymethylinulin having a degree of substitution of from 1 .5 to 2.7. Most preferably, the carboxylated fructan compound may be carboxymethylinulin having a degree of substitution of 2.0 or 2.5. Compositions comprising carboxymethylinulin having a degree of substitution of 2.0 or 2.5 exhibit better performance with respect to the moisture absorption, the hydration of the epidermis, or the enhancement of the barrier properties of the epidermis. Excellent results were also obtained with respect to the in- vitro experiment, in particular to favor the increase of the content of filaggrin of the epidermis.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be combined with at least one salt of mono or diglycolate to form a composition.
  • said composition may comprise from 1 to 50 wt.% of at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate, preferably from 1 to 20 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 10 wt.%, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the terms "mono glycolate” or “glycolate” both refer to a salt of glycolic acid HO-C(0)-CH 2 OH.
  • diglycolate refers to a salt of diglycolic acid 0(CH 2 COOH) 2 .
  • said composition may comprise a mixture of glycolate and diglycolate salts.
  • the content of glycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 10 wt% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of diglycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 10 wt% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise from 1 to 20 wt% of a mixture of mono and diglycolate salts, preferably from 1 to 10 wt% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Said salt may be alkaline metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt.
  • the salt may be lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium salt.
  • composition further comprise at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt.
  • the presence of said mono or diglycolate salt in the present composition improves the hydration and/or the barrier properties of the epidermis.
  • the content of filaggrin of the epidermis can be increased which favors the improvement of the skin appearance.
  • wrinkles, scarring and others depressions in the skin can be corrected by the present composition, and preferably when said composition further comprises at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt.
  • the present composition may also lower skin and/or mucosa ageing.
  • the present composition may be added to cosmetic composition or formulation used to protect skin and to prevent dehydration of the skin, for example sunscreen composition.
  • the present composition may be suitable as protective agent for hair or skin in a cosmetic composition or formulation.
  • the present composition may be also suitable as skin or hair protective agent in hand and/or body and/or hair care composition.
  • the positive effect of the present composition on the skin, in particular on the hydration of the skin is exemplified hereunder.
  • a composition consisting of a carboxylated fructan compound as defined above and from 1 to 50 wt.% of at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate, preferably from 1 to 20 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 10 wt.%, with respect to the total weight of the composition, is provided.
  • the present invention relates to the use, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, of the composition as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of skin, hair or keratin substances.
  • a cosmetic composition is therefore prepared.
  • Said cosmetic composition further comprises the well-known ingredient or additives needed to prepare a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound as defined above.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises from 1 to 100 wt% of at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate, preferably from 1 to 25 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 12 wt%, calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • said at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate may be a mixture of glycolate and diglycolate salts.
  • the content of glycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • the content of diglycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • the content of said carboxylated fructan compound in the cosmetic composition may range from 0.0005 wt% to 10wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably, from 0.005 wt% to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the present composition comprising carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt may be suitable to correct wrinkles, scarring and others depressions in the skin, or for lowering skin and/or mucosa ageing. Furthermore, the carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt may be used as skin or hair protective agent in a cosmetic composition, hand and/or body and/or hair care composition, sunscreen composition, or hand dishwashing detergent composition. The present composition is also suitable for anti-ageing cosmetic use.
  • a method for hardening or hydrating the epidermis, or enhancing barrier properties of the epidermis, or increasing the content of filaggrin of the epidermis comprises the step of applying the carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt onto the surface of the epidermis, preferably whereon the firmness of said surface of the epidermis is reduced. This lack of firmness may be due, for example, to the dehydration of the epidermis or a lower content of filaggrin.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, alone or in combination with said at least one salt of mono or diglycolate salt may be injected within the epidermis.
  • This kind of injection is well-known in the cosmetic field.
  • the composition may be injected in the wrinkles.
  • the present composition may be suitable as moisture retention or absorption agent, or as epidermis hydrating agent or humectants.
  • the present composition may be used as textile protective agent in laundry detergents, or fabric softeners.
  • the present invention provides a carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, or a composition according to the present invention for use as medicine.
  • the present composition may comprise a carboxylated fructan compound, as defined above, and optionally at least one salt of mono- or diglycolate as defined above.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound as well as the composition according to the present invention may be used for the treatment or prophylaxis of dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders.
  • Said dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders are selected from the group consisting of contact allergy, psoriasis, plaque psoriasis, psoriasis vulgaris, localized pustular psoriasis, pustule psoriasis, Hallopeau localized continuous achrodermatitis, pustular palm psoriasis, pustular sole psoriasis, generalized pustular psoriasis, von Zumbuch generalized pustular psoriasis, milia psoriasis, Hallopeau generalized continuous dermatitis, herpetiform impetigodermatitis, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, numular dermatitis, generalized ex
  • composition or the carboxylated fructan compound according to the present invention may be used for the treatment or prophylaxis of diseases or disorders associated with filaggrin deficiencies in the epidermis.
  • said dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders may be selected from the group consisting of psoriasis, plaque psoriasis, psoriasis vulgaris, localized pustular psoriasis, pustule psoriasis, Hallopeau localized continuous achrodermatitis, pustular palm psoriasis, pustular sole psoriasis, generalized pustular psoriasis, von Zumbuch generalized pustular psoriasis, milia psoriasis, Hallopeau generalized continuous dermatitis, herpetiform impetigodermatitis, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, numular dermatitis, generalized exfoliative dermatitis, statis dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, eczema, xerosis, ichthyosis, epi
  • the present invention further provides a pharmaceutical preparation comprising the carboxylated fructan compound according to the present invention.
  • Said pharmaceutical preparation may comprise a therapeutically effective amount of the carboxylated fructan compound according to the present invention in admixture with a pharmaceutically acceptable adjuvant, diluent or carrier.
  • the pharmaceutical preparation further comprises from 1 to 100 wt% of at least one salt of mono- or di- glycolate, preferably from 1 to 25 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 12 wt%, calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • said at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate may be a mixture of glycolate and diglycolate salts.
  • the content of glycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • the content of diglycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound and said at least one salt of mono- or di-glycolate may be in the form of a pharmaceutically acceptable salt, solvate, hydrate, polymorph, co- crystal thereof.
  • the content of said carboxylated fructan compound in the pharmaceutical preparation may range from 0.0005 wt% to 10wt% based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical preparation, preferably from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical preparation, more preferably, from 0.005 wt% to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical preparation.
  • Said pharmaceutical preparation may be used for the treatment or prophylaxis of dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders, or for the treatment or prophylaxis of diseases or disorders associated with filaggrin deficiencies in the epidermis as defined above.
  • a composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound as defined above, and 1 to 100 wt.% of at least one salt of mono- or diglycolate, preferably from 1 to 25 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 12 wt.%, calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound, is provided.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound is selected from carboxyalkylinulin having 1 or 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety (e.g. carboxymethylinulin and/or carboxyethylinulin) and having a degree of substitution of from 1 .5 to 2.7.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be carboxymethylinulin having a degree of substitution of from 1 .5 to 2.7.
  • the carboxylated fructan compound may be carboxymethylinulin having a degree of substitution of 2.0 or 2.5.
  • said at least one salt of mono- or diglycolate may be a mixture of mono and diglycolate salts.
  • the content of glycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • the content of diglycolate salt may range from 0.5 to 25 wt% calculated on the basis of the carboxylated fructan compound.
  • Said salt may be alkaline metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt.
  • the salt may be lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium salt.
  • the composition may be a powder or an aqueous solution.
  • Example 1 Preliminary absorption and retention tests
  • Ra (%) (Wn - W0)/ W0 X 100 wherein W0 and Wn are the weights of samples before and after putted into the dessicators. Seven compositions, in powder form, were compared.
  • Composition A comprises carboxymethylinulin (degree of substitution was 2.0) and 6.5wt% of a mixture of sodium glycolate and sodium diglycolate.
  • Composition D comprises carboxymethylinulin (degree of substitution was 2.5) and 9wt% of a mixture of sodium glycolate and sodium diglycolate.
  • Composition B comprises carboxymethylinulin (degree of substitution was 2.5) without mono or diglycolate salts.
  • Composition C comprises pure carboxymethylinulin (degree of substitution was 2.5).
  • compositions A-D were also compared to compositions comprising either inulin, hyaluronic acid (HA) or xilogel®.
  • HA hyaluronic acid
  • Xilogel® is a polysaccharide known to be an alternative to hyaluronic acid. Results were summarized in table 1 below and Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 1 represents the percentage of moisture absorption (Ra %) versus the time expressed in hours.
  • compositions A and D which comprise carboxymethylinulin and a mixture of sodium glycolate and sodium diglycolate, show better performance than the composition comprising hyaluronic acid. Indeed, the weight gain was around 50% for hyaluronic acid while the weight gain was greater than 140% after 94 hours for compositions A and D according to the present invention. This result was totally unexpected at the time of the invention. Compositions B and C were slightly less efficient than hyaluronic acid but absorption properties were observed with a weight gain around 20% which was comparable to inulin or xilogel.
  • compositions A and D exhibited excellent absorption properties. Indeed, a weight gain of 190% and 143% was obtained for compositions A and D after 94 hours respectively, while 81 % was obtained with hyaluronic acid. Compositions B and C achieved a weight gain of 73% and 37% after 94 hours respectively which was acceptable results.
  • compositions A and D were similar to the moisture retention ability of hyaluronic acid. After 94 hours, the moisture retention was 50%, 57% and 45% for composition A, D and hyaluronic acid respectively. Compositions B and C reached lower values comparable to values obtained with xilogel®.
  • compositions B and C were similar to those obtained with xilogel®. The same performance profile was observed.
  • Composition A and the composition comprising hyaluronic acid show significant weight loss, e.g. 18% and 15% after 94 hours.
  • the results obtained with composition D were acceptable since a weight loss of 55% was obtained.
  • compositions A and D are efficient compositions for moisture retention and have at least comparable performance with respect to the hyaluronic acid performance.
  • Results obtained in silica gel show that compositions A and D are able to release part of the water absorbed.
  • Compositions B and C without glycolate salts show acceptable absorption performances comparable to xilogel®.
  • the retention ability of such compositions was enhanced overtime compared to hyaluronic acid.
  • Example 1 shows that a composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound has the ability to control the moisture absorption or retention. This effect is enhanced when the composition further comprise at least one salt of mono or di-glycolate. The ability of the mono or diglycolate to further improve the retention/adsorption properties of the composition was unexpected.
  • Example 2 In vitro testing
  • compositions according to the present invention were considered as potential candidates for cosmetic applications.
  • In vitro testing was performed to demonstrate the effect of compositions according to the present invention on the epidermis.
  • cytotoxicity and influence of the composition according to the present invention on epidermis were evaluated.
  • the first sample is a control sample
  • two samples contain hyaluronic acid at 10 ⁇ g ml and 50 ⁇ g ml respectively
  • two other samples contain the composition A described above having a carboxymethylinulin content of 10 ⁇ g ml and 50 ⁇ g ml respectively.
  • the composition A further comprises a mixture of sodium glycolate and sodium diglycolate.
  • the overall content of said sodium glycolate and sodium diglycolate was approx. 6.5wt% with respect to the total weight of carboxymethylinulin in the sample.
  • composition A comprises 3.5wt% of sodium glycolate and 3wt% of sodium diglycolate with respect to the total weight of carboxymethylinulin in the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention having a carboxymethylinulin content of 250 ⁇ g ml.
  • the measurement performed when the composition A was applied on the epidermis showed an increase in electrical resistance up to 130% compared to the control sample at 10 ⁇ g ml.
  • the value obtained with a sample at a concentration of 50 ⁇ g ml was 1 1 1 %. It was unexpected to obtain such results which demonstrate that the present composition is an alternative to hyaluronic acid for cosmetic applications.
  • the epidermis electrical resistance was 102% and 137% at 10 ⁇ g ml and 50 ⁇ g ml respectively in presence of hyaluronic acid.
  • the present composition provides the same results than hyaluronic acid at lower concentration which was unexpected.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprising a carboxylated fructan compound, such as carboxymethylinulin, and preferably further comprising at least one salt of mono or diglycolate, is able to enhance barrier properties of the epidermis.
  • the epidermis exhibits a low permeability and a cohesive structure.
  • Filaggrin is a hydration marker of the epidermis.
  • the proteolysis of filaggrin generates hygroscopic molecules acting as a sponge and which allows increasing the water content of the epidermis. Higher content in filaggrin will favor the correction of wrinkles or skin depression.
  • Fig. 6 represents the relative filaggrin content in epidermis evaluated for five samples: a control sample (non-treated epidermis), in presence of the composition A as described above (carboxymethylinulin concentration of 10 ⁇ g ml or 50 ⁇ g ml) or in presence of hyaluronic acid at 10 ⁇ g ml or 50 ⁇ g ml.
  • the values were relative values expressed compared to the effective amount of filaggrin obtained with the non treated sample.
  • the amount of filaggrin was defined at a value of 100 with the non treated sample.
  • the filaggrin content was 133 and 190 for composition A having a carboxymethylinulin content of 10Mg/ml and ⁇ / ⁇ respectively.
  • the filaggrin content obtained for samples comprising hyaluronic acid was 104 and 195 respectively.
  • the filaggrin content was higher in presence of the composition A, having a carboxymethylinulin content of 1 C ⁇ g/ml, than in presence of a composition comprising 1 C ⁇ g/ml of hyaluronic acid.
  • the present composition can be used in cosmetic applications instead of hyaluronic acid.
  • the filaggrin content obtained with the composition A was comparable to the one of hyaluronic acid. Controlling the amount of filaggrin in epidermis is of utmost importance in the treatment of dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders. This is reported in Sandilands et al., Journal of Cell Science 122 (9), 1285-1294 or Irvine et al., The New England Journal of Medicine, 201 1 , 365 (14), 1315-1327.
  • composition according to the present invention has dramatically positive effect on the filaggrin content and is therefore suitable for use as medicine, preferably for the treatment or prophylaxis of dermatologic or allergic diseases or disorders, in particular for the treatment or prophylaxis of diseases or disorders associated with filaggrin deficiencies in the epidermis.
  • the present composition comprising a carboxylated fructan compound, such as carboxymethylinulin, and preferably at least one salt of mono or diglycolate is able to favor the presence of water on the epidermis which is an important feature to correct wrinkles, or for lowering skin and/or mucosa ageing.
  • the present composition is suitable as skin or hair protective agent in a cosmetic composition, hand and/or body and/or hair care composition, sunscreen composition, or hand dishwashing detergent composition.
  • the testing performed in vitro demonstrate an efficient ability of the present composition to harden the epidermis and thus to avoid alteration thereof.
  • Example 3 In vivo testing
  • the efficacy and tolerance of the present composition was studied on panelists during classical clinical tests.
  • the composition according to the present invention used for in vivo testing, comprises 32% of carboxymethylinulin and 18% mono and diglycolate salts. Formulations comprising a defined amount of the present composition were evaluated on face, neck and forearm. Therefore, the content of carboxymethylinulin in the formulations is selected in the range defined above in the present application.
  • the evaluation of skin moisturizing efficacy was performed with a CORNEOMETER CM825 (Courage + Khazaka).
  • the corneometer is based on the completely different dielectric constant of water and other substances.
  • the measuring capacitor shows changes of capacitance according to the moisture content of the samples.
  • a glass lamina separates the metallic tracks in the probe head from skin in order to prevent current conduction in the samples.
  • An electric scatter field penetrates the skin during the measurement and the dielectricity is determined.
  • One track builds up a surplus of electrons the other a lack of electrons.
  • An electric filed between the tracks with alternating attraction develops.
  • the scatterfield penetrates the very first layer of the skin and determines the dielectricity.
  • the penetration depth of the electrical scatter field is demonstrably very small, so that only the moisture on the skin is measured. Hydration of the skin was determined by evaluating the transepidermal water loss with TEWAMETER TM 300 (Courage + Khazaka).
  • the tewameter defines the integrity of the epidermis in its normal, irritated and diseased skin.
  • the skin smoothening efficacy was determined by SkinSys software.
  • composition according to the present invention tested on panelists has unexpected efficacy in skin moisturizing, skin hydration and skin smoothening.
  • the effect was observed irrespective of the area treated, i.e. face, neck as well forearm.
  • An effect on skin hydration, moisturizing and smoothening was observed at least at the first week.
  • Varying the concentration of carboxymethylinulin in the composition allow controlling the time needed to observe the effect on skin hydration, moisturizing and smoothening, thereby providing a versatile composition.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne l'utilisation d'une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, un composé fructane carboxylé pour le traitement cosmétique de la peau, des cheveux ou des substances kératiniques. La présente invention concerne également une composition comprenant un composé fructane carboxylé destiné à être utilisé comme médicament, en particulier pour le traitement thérapeutique ou prophylactique de maladies ou désordres dermatologiques et allergiques.
EP12798764.2A 2011-12-12 2012-12-12 Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux Withdrawn EP2790654A2 (fr)

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EP12798764.2A EP2790654A2 (fr) 2011-12-12 2012-12-12 Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux

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EP11193024 2011-12-12
PCT/EP2012/075164 WO2013087665A2 (fr) 2011-12-12 2012-12-12 Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux
EP12798764.2A EP2790654A2 (fr) 2011-12-12 2012-12-12 Composition cosmétique pour les soins de la peau ou des cheveux

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EP2790654A2 true EP2790654A2 (fr) 2014-10-22

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JP2019510036A (ja) 2016-03-31 2019-04-11 ゴジョ・インダストリーズ・インコーポレイテッド プロバイオティクス／プレバイオティクス有効成分を含む清浄剤組成物
AU2017240068B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2022-12-15 Gojo Industries, Inc. Antimicrobial peptide stimulating cleansing composition
CA3043748A1 (fr) 2016-11-23 2018-05-31 Gojo Industries, Inc. Composition desinfectante comprenant une substance active probiotique/prebiotique

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WO2013087665A2 (fr) 2013-06-20

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