EP2505096B1 - Schmuckstein mit Chatonschliff - Google Patents

Schmuckstein mit Chatonschliff Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2505096B1
EP2505096B1 EP12001197.8A EP12001197A EP2505096B1 EP 2505096 B1 EP2505096 B1 EP 2505096B1 EP 12001197 A EP12001197 A EP 12001197A EP 2505096 B1 EP2505096 B1 EP 2505096B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstone
angle
facets
crown
pavilion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP12001197.8A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2505096A1 (de
Inventor
Maik Froehlich
Karlheinz Eder
Günther Blasbichler
Markus Sauer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
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Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Publication of EP2505096A1 publication Critical patent/EP2505096A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2505096B1 publication Critical patent/EP2505096B1/de
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001Faceting gems
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/007Special types of gems

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a gemstone with a chaton.
  • US5970744 discloses a gemstone with a stair cut.
  • Chaton Symposium has the so-called octant or Xilionschliff (eg Swarovski stones A1200 and A1028) established in the past in the market, as these have proven to be aesthetically pleasing and easy.
  • octant or Xilionschliff eg Swarovski stones A1200 and A1028
  • the "light return” value indicates how much light that strikes the gemstone from a predefined solid angle range falls back onto the observer essentially along the axis of symmetry of the stone in a relatively narrow (opening angle 3 °) directed solid angle range.
  • the term "fire” refers to the property of a gemstone to break up the incoming white light into its spectral components. The expression of this property depends on both the material (dispersion) and the cut.
  • a gemstone with a chaton section has a crown, also called upper part, with a defined number of lateral facets and a middle plane board, as well as a pavilion, also called lower part, with a defined number of facets on.
  • the opposite of the table opposite end of the gem can be used as a tip or as be formed rounded tip in the form of a so-called caliber.
  • Between the upper and lower part of a so-called Rondiste (peripheral edge) can be arranged.
  • the gemstone can be ground symmetrically or asymmetrically.
  • the object of the invention is to further improve the aesthetic impression of a gemstone with a chaton section by optimizing optical parameters, in particular "fire” and "light return”.
  • the gemstone has a chaton section in which the crown angle ( ⁇ ) is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 ° and that the angle between the diamond plane and those crown facets which adjoin the panel with a broadside is between 33.5 ° and 35 ° , 5 °, has surprisingly resulted in a particularly high light output ("Light Recturn”) at the same time high "fire”.
  • the scintillation (sparkling of the moving gemstone) and the brilliance of the gemstone are particularly well presented.
  • the crown angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the crown and the rondistine plane, this boundary line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a crown facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the Rondistenebene is that level, which is arranged parallel to the board and in which the gemstone has the largest cross-sectional dimension.
  • the Rondistenebene is aligned perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the gem.
  • the "light return” and the "fire” can be measured, for example as shown below FIG. 5 and FIG is described. Instead of an actual measurement, the measurement can also be simulated mathematically on the basis of the geometry and the material of the gemstone.
  • crown angle ranges ( ⁇ ) are between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °. Very particularly preferred is the crown angle ( ⁇ ) at 41.95 °.
  • the gazebo angle ( ⁇ ) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41.0 °, and most preferably 40.73 °.
  • the gazebo angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the gazebo and the girdle plane, this gauging line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a gazebo facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the gemstone according to the invention may preferably be made of a glass, a gemstone of natural or synthetic precious or semi-precious stone or plastic with the Chaton cut is also possible.
  • the crown of the gemstone which is also known as the upper part, has a board, bordered by the eight crown facets, each with a broadside. In one embodiment of the invention, these crown facets have an angle of between 34.25 ° and 34.75 ° to the rondist plane, and preferably at 34.5 °.
  • the crown has eight other crown facets, each with a broadside adjacent to the Rondiste.
  • the angle between these crown facets and the rondist plane is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 ° (preferably between 41.75 ° and 42.25 ° and most preferably at 41.95 °).
  • the orthogonal projection of the last-mentioned crown facets yields the crown angle.
  • the pavilion which is also known as the lower part, has at least 16 pavilion facets, which are guided together in the form of a point or a calette at the opposite end of the panel. In one embodiment, eight pavilion facets have a point located toward the rim, while eight pavilion facets have a broad side adjacent to the rim.
  • This pavilion facet is tapered and pointed from the Rondiste directed away.
  • These pavilion facets which are adjacent to the broadside on the ridge strip, have an angle of between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41 ° and most preferably 40.73 °, relative to the rim plane in one embodiment.
  • the orthogonal projection of the latter pavilion facets gives the pavilion angle.
  • the angle between the rondistine plane and those pavilion facets having a peak adjacent to the rondist or towards the rondist is between 35.0 ° and 37.0 ° (preferably between 36.0 ° ° and 36.5 ° and most preferably at 36.28 °)).
  • Fig. 1 a shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a side view.
  • the crown 2 also called upper part of the pavilion 3, also called lower part separates.
  • the Rondiste 4 is that area of the largest cross-sectional dimension of the gem 1. Schematically represented is also the axis of symmetry (longitudinal axis L) of the gem.
  • the pavilion 3 has two types of pavilion facets 8, 9 (two-ply cut). In this case, eight Pavillonfacetten 9 on a broadside, with which they adjoin the Rondiste 4. The remaining pavilion facets 8 have a tip, which is adjacent to the Rondiste 4 respectively.
  • the crown 2 also has 16 facets 10 and 11, as well as a flat panel 5, which is aligned parallel to the Rondistenebene 7 and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L.
  • Eight crown facets 11 each adjoin the rondist 4 with one broad side and have a point which is aligned in the direction of the panel 5.
  • Eight other crown facets 10 each adjoin the board 5 with one broad side (two-ply cut).
  • Fig. 1b shows a plan view of the crown 2 of the gem 1.
  • the symmetry of the gemstone 1 can be seen.
  • the longitudinal axis L By the center of the coordinate cross the longitudinal axis L.
  • Fig. 1 c shows a view from below of the pavilion 3 of the gem 1.
  • the top 6 which is formed by the adjoining Pavillonfacetten 8, symbolically another coordinate system for representing the symmetry of the gem 1 is shown.
  • Fig. 2 shows a schematic illustration for explaining the crown angle ⁇ formed between the Rondistenebene 7 and the lateral boundary line 16 of the crown 2, while the pavilion angle ⁇ between the lateral boundary line 17 of the pavilion 3 and the Rondistenebene 7 is formed.
  • Fig. 3a shows a gemstone 1 'with a Chatonschliff of the prior art (Swarovski A1200).
  • the rays of light 13 entering the jewelry are only partly reflected back in the viewing direction on the pavilion 3 'because of the angles with which the pavilion facets are ground, in particular because of the crown angle and the pavilion angle.
  • a portion of the rays is refracted or scattered sideways in the form of the beam 14. The light retum value is reduced
  • the luminous efficacy is significantly improved since the majority of the rays in the area of the pavilion 3 is totally reflected, so that almost the entire proportion of entering the crown 2 light rays 13 after optionally multiple reflection in the form of emerging from the crown 2 light rays 15 is reflected back to the viewer.
  • FIG. 4 shows the location of this gemstone according to the invention l021 in the so-called light return / fire diagram. It can be seen that the gemstone according to the invention over the prior art A1200 and A1028, another stone of the Applicant simultaneously high light retum values and high Fire values and thus in terms of optical properties and aesthetic appearance of the prior art is superior.
  • Fig. 5 shows a schematic view of a measuring arrangement for measuring the light return (light output) of a gem.
  • a gemstone 1 arranged in the center of the base circle 17 of the hemisphere 16 is illuminated by light rays 18, so that the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 is irradiated with white, diffused light, the light rays being hemispherical except for a darkened region 19 hit the gemstone 1 and be reflected by this.
  • the base circle 17 is darkened to recess for the gemstone 1, so that from below the base circle 17 no light impinges on the gemstone 1. Also darkened is a region 19 of the hemisphere 16, which lies exactly opposite the gemstone 1 and has an opening angle ⁇ of 46 °.
  • the area 19 has a recess 20 with an opening angle ⁇ of 3 °.
  • This recess 20 serves as a narrow measuring field for a detector. It can thus be arranged above the recess 20, a luminous flux measuring detector.
  • the respective light-specific values such as, for example, the brightness in the area of this recess 20, can be calculated in a computer simulation.
  • the amount of light reflected upwards by the gemstone 1 represents an average over almost all possible illumination arrangements and thus gives a quantitative measure of the light return (light output) of the gemstone 1.
  • the reflections find it different facets, so that light is reflected back directly on the first impact on the gemstone, but also after a number of internal reflections to the recess.
  • the FIG. 6 shows a measuring arrangement for the "Fire" value (fire value).
  • the gemstone 1 held by a holder 20 is illuminated in the direction of its main axis with a directed list from the light source 21 through the opening 22.
  • the light scattered back by the gemstone 1 is recorded in color on a measuring field 24.
  • the product values of saturation and illuminance of the light points recorded in the measuring field (25) are summed up and thus give the measure for the "Fire.”
  • FIGS. 7a to 7c show a further embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention in a schematic side view, similar to FIG. 1a However, this stone is in contrast to the stone of FIG. 1a a pronounced peripheral edge 4a (Rondiste) is provided, which runs in the plan view of the gemstone circular around this.
  • Rondiste peripheral edge 4a
  • the invention is of course not limited to the illustrated embodiments, in particular, the number of facets vary, in contrast to the illustrated gemstone, which has both on the panel and the pavilion each 8+ facets, other combination of facets can be used, for example 6 + 6, 10 + 10 or 12 + 12 facets. Even odd facet numbers are possible. Also, the facet numbers between crown on the one hand and pavilion on the other do not have to match.
  • both the crown and the pavilion have two different grinding angles (two-ply cut) included.
  • two-ply cut two-ply cut
  • one-ply and multi-layered gemstones are possible.
  • the preferred material is glass, preferably having a refractive index between 1.50 and 1.60, and most preferably 1.55. But there are also other materials, especially natural stones conceivable and possible.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Medicines That Contain Protein Lipid Enzymes And Other Medicines (AREA)
EP12001197.8A 2011-03-07 2012-02-23 Schmuckstein mit Chatonschliff Active EP2505096B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT3002011 2011-03-07

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2505096A1 EP2505096A1 (de) 2012-10-03
EP2505096B1 true EP2505096B1 (de) 2016-10-19

Family

ID=45833086

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP12001197.8A Active EP2505096B1 (de) 2011-03-07 2012-02-23 Schmuckstein mit Chatonschliff

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US10271621B2 (pl)
EP (1) EP2505096B1 (pl)
CN (1) CN102669897B (pl)
AT (1) AT12644U1 (pl)
ES (1) ES2608881T3 (pl)
HK (1) HK1173051A1 (pl)
HU (1) HUE032853T2 (pl)
PL (1) PL2505096T3 (pl)

Families Citing this family (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AT513466A1 (de) 2012-10-12 2014-04-15 Swarovski D Kg Schliff für Schmuckstein
AT515136B1 (de) 2013-11-15 2016-12-15 Swarovski D Kg Schmuckstein mit sternförmigem Erscheinungsbild
US9943144B2 (en) 2014-10-31 2018-04-17 Leon Mege Inc. Step-cut gemstone
USD746169S1 (en) 2014-10-31 2015-12-29 Leon Mege Inc. Gemstone
USD741214S1 (en) 2014-10-31 2015-10-20 Leon Mege Inc. Gemstone
USD829124S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2018-09-25 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
USD883134S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-05 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
DE102016222189A1 (de) * 2016-11-11 2018-05-17 Realization Desal Ag Schmuckstein
US11452346B2 (en) * 2017-10-09 2022-09-27 D. Swarovski Kg Cut for gemstone

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CN85102401A (zh) 1985-04-01 1987-01-10 天津市硅酸盐研究所 具有活光效果的模造宝石玻璃
US5970744A (en) * 1998-12-01 1999-10-26 Tiffany And Company Cut cornered square mixed-cut gemstone
US6422039B2 (en) * 2000-07-20 2002-07-23 D. Swarovski & Co. Gem
US6698239B2 (en) * 2001-02-23 2004-03-02 Samuel Aaron, Inc. Brilliant cut diamond
USD483686S1 (en) * 2002-03-13 2003-12-16 Swarovski Aktiengesellschaft Natural or artificial gemstone or ornamental object made of glass
US6705114B2 (en) * 2002-05-29 2004-03-16 D. Swarovski & Co. Decorative stone made of glass
US7225642B2 (en) * 2003-09-09 2007-06-05 Simka Diamonds Diamond cut
CN100386043C (zh) 2003-09-12 2008-05-07 深圳市真诚美珠宝有限公司 圆明亮式琢型钻石及其切割方法
US7571060B2 (en) * 2004-09-27 2009-08-04 Gemological Institute Of America (Gia) System and method for gemstone cut grading
CN101873813B (zh) * 2008-01-22 2013-01-23 哈森费尔德-斯泰因公司 呈现极佳的光学明亮度的切割宝石
CN201153610Y (zh) 2008-03-06 2008-11-26 郭剑鹏 一种切割钻石
US20090260396A1 (en) * 2008-04-16 2009-10-22 Eitan Broukman Methods for processing ornamental diamonds and corresponding ornamental diamonds
JP4768003B2 (ja) * 2008-09-25 2011-09-07 株式会社ほほえみブレインズ 装飾用宝石及び装飾用宝石のカッティング方法
ATE551920T1 (de) 2008-10-22 2012-04-15 Jean-Paul Meijer Tolkowsky Geschliffener diamant
USD691916S1 (en) * 2012-01-16 2013-10-22 Preciosa A.S. Stone for jewelry

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN102669897A (zh) 2012-09-19
HK1173051A1 (en) 2013-07-05
AT12644U1 (de) 2012-09-15
HUE032853T2 (en) 2017-11-28
EP2505096A1 (de) 2012-10-03
US20120227444A1 (en) 2012-09-13
US10271621B2 (en) 2019-04-30
ES2608881T3 (es) 2017-04-17
CN102669897B (zh) 2015-01-07
PL2505096T3 (pl) 2017-03-31

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