Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin by application of at least two compounds X and Y, able to react together, where appropriate in the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide, at least one of the compounds being silicone.
• the treatment method according to the invention is more particularly intended to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, such as for example the cutaneous microrelief, or even the deep wrinkles of the skin.
• these tensor agents are effective only on the superficial wrinkles of the face, and are less effective on the deeper ones for which their action is on the other hand weak and very little durable.
• compounds X and compound Y are capable of polymerizing in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature, and to form advantageously biocompatible wrinkle filling agents capable of physically filling the irregularities.
• skin for example the skin microrelief, or even the deepest wrinkles of the skin, and this in a sustainable manner over time.
• Such systems are in part partly described in WO 01/96 450 and GB 2 407 496.
• polymeric fillers capable of being formed in situ on a support, in particular of the keratin material type, are furthermore endowed with advantageous properties in terms of cosmetics, namely good adhesion and comfort.
• the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting in applying to said irregularities a filling product resulting from a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or from a condensation reaction, or a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide; between two compounds X and Y at least one of which is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with each other, where appropriate in the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide, so that said reaction occurs at least in part on the skin.
• a cosmetic treatment process intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting in applying to said irregularities a filling product resulting from a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or from a condensation reaction, or a crosslinking reaction in the
• the filling product can be obtained by extemporaneously mixing a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least compound X and a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least compound Y, with at least one of said first and second compositions additionally containing, if appropriate, at least one catalyst or a peroxide.
• the first and second compositions may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, or be in paste form, if necessary anhydrous. It should be noted that the first and second compositions are different from each other.
• the first composition may advantageously be devoid of compounds Y and the second composition may advantageously be devoid of compounds X. Indeed, in view of their high reactivity for each other, the compounds X and Y are not present simultaneously in a first and / or second composition according to the invention, when their interaction is not conditioned by the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide.
• the compounds X and Y When their interaction is conditioned by the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide, the compounds X and Y may be present simultaneously in a composition, if the latter does not comprise a catalyst or peroxide.
• one of the compounds X or Y may be present in a composition simultaneously with a catalyst or a peroxide, if the other compound is not present in this composition.
• first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the compound X
• second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, compound Y
• at least one of said first and second compositions additionally containing, where appropriate, at least one catalyst or a peroxide.
• the subject of the present invention is also, in another of its aspects, a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, such as for example, the cutaneous microrelief, comprising at least the application on the skin exhibiting said irregularities of a filling product resulting from the application of at least: a layer of a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound X, and a layer of a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y, at least one of compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, said compounds X and Y being capable of react together by a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or by a condensation reaction, or by a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, when they are brought into contact with each other, with at least one of said first and second compositions additionally containing, where appropriate, at least one catalyst or a peroxide.
• the method consists in applying to the skin at least one layer of the second composition comprising the compound Y, then depositing on the layer or layers of said second composition at least one layer of the first composition comprising the compound X, at least one of said first and second compositions further comprising, where appropriate, at least one catalyst or peroxide.
• the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may further comprise the application on the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin of interferential particles.
• the joint application of interferential particles, present in one and / or the other of the first and second compositions advantageously provides, in addition to the effect resulting from the filling product described above, an optical effect to affect at the same time, the visual perception of the irregularities of the skin with the naked eye.
• the camouflage effect sought by the process according to the invention is thus reinforced.
• the invention also relates, in yet another of its aspects, to a kit for treating keratin material (s), in particular the skin, comprising at least two different compositions packaged separately, the kit comprising at least one filler and or a wax, at least one compound X, at least one compound Y with at least one of the compounds X or Y being silicone, and optionally at least one catalyst or a peroxide, said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or by a condensation reaction, or by a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, when they are brought into contact with each other and in which the compounds X and Y and the catalyst or peroxide when present are not present simultaneously in the same composition, and said filler and / or wax is in sufficient quantity to impart opacity to the filling product resulting from the interaction of the compounds X and Y, at the end of the mixture of the compositions of the kit.
• said kit may comprise at least: a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound X, a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y, one at least one less X and Y compounds being a silicone compound, said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or by a condensation reaction, or by a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, when in contact with each other, with at least one of the first and second compositions further comprising at least one filler and / or wax and at least one of said compositions further containing, where appropriate, at least one catalyst or peroxide.
• the mixture formed by the mixture of such a first composition and of such a second composition comprises compounds X and / or Y in a form which has not yet reacted and not exclusively in the form of their reaction product by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst, by condensation and / or by crosslinking in the presence of a peroxide.
• reaction product according to the invention can either be carried out directly on the surface of the keratinous material to be treated or is initiated just before application by extemporaneous mixing of compounds X and Y under conditions conducive to their interaction, the formation of the reaction product being in the latter case finalized on the surface of the keratin material.
• the method according to the invention therefore implements a composition containing compounds X and Y, and thus not frozen in the form of the expected final film and resulting from the reaction of all of X and / or all of Y.
• the two compositions have a semi-liquid to pasty texture, and in particular have a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s at a shear rate of 10 -3 s -1. preferably greater than 20,000 Pa.s.
• at least one of the compositions used in a process according to the invention is anhydrous, preferably both compositions are anhydrous.
• the two compositions or each composition of the kit contains at least one filler and / or one wax in an amount sufficient to impart opacity to each of the compositions.
• the first composition comprising the compound X and the second composition comprising the silicone compound Y are packaged in separate packages.
• each composition may be packaged separately in one and the same packaging article, for example in a bi-compartmented pen, the base composition being delivered by one end of the pen and the composition of the top being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end being closed in particular sealed manner by a cap.
• Each composition may also be packaged in a compartment within the same packaging article, the mixture of the two compositions being effected at the end or ends of the packaging article during the delivery of each composition.
• each of the first and second compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin material (s) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound X, a compound Y, at least one filler and / or wax, said filler and / or or wax being present in an amount sufficient to impart opacity to the composition and, where appropriate, at least one catalyst or peroxide with at least one of X or Y being present in an encapsulated form.
• the composition has a semi-liquid to pasty texture, and may have a shear rate equal to 10 ⁇ 3 sec " ⁇ a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s, preferably greater than 20 000 Pa.s.
• the composition applied contains at least one of the compounds X and Y in an encapsulated form.
• the two compounds X and Y are present in separate encapsulated forms.
• the two compounds X and Y may be packaged in the same composition, optionally in the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide, while avoiding the risk of premature reaction between them. This reaction occurs only when the composition is handled beforehand or when it is applied to the skin.
• the encapsulated form (s) of the compound X and / or Y break on drying and the compounds X and Y then brought into contact, if necessary in the presence of a catalyst or a peroxide, react to form the expected filler.
• the invention finally relates to the use of a kit or a cosmetic composition as defined above to obtain a film deposited on the skin which permanently hides the irregularities of the skin, in particular the deep wrinkles of the face .
• the method according to the invention advantageously leads to a comfortable deposit on the skin, which permanently conceals the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin.
• the products and compositions according to the invention have in turn a suitable viscosity for the desired use, and in particular improved deformability, elasticity and workability in comparison with the products known hitherto.
• the cosmetic products and compositions according to the invention are suitable for performing a modeling of the skin, in particular of the skin of the face, and make it possible to reduce the skin microrelief.
• the expression "visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin” means the signs of skin aging, such as, for example, wrinkles, in particular deep wrinkles, and fine lines, as well as marks of acne or chickenpox and scars.
• deep wrinkles refers to wrinkles due to skin aging, as opposed to “wrinkles of expression”, in particular induced by dermocrispation of the facial muscles. These are the tensions responsible for wrinkles expression that, by pulling on the deep face of the dermis, tend to dig and form deep wrinkles with time.
• the present invention is more particularly dedicated to the cosmetic treatment of wrinkles, in particular deep wrinkles of the skin, in particular deep wrinkles of the facial skin.
• si-liquid to pasty texture designates a texture having a sufficient viscosity to be able to be used in the process according to the invention, preferably having, for a shear rate equal to 10 -3 S -1 , a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s, preferably greater than 20,000 Pa.s.
• the fillers or the composition as described above may be characterized by an opacity greater than 35%, and preferably greater than 50%.
• composition or mixture of compositions for forming the filler is spread on a transparent film (Hp Color laser jet transparency, HP Inventory CP2936A) by means of an automatic applicator from Braive instruments (wet thickness 100 ⁇ m). The spreads are then placed in the thermostatted oven and ventilated for 24 hours at 37 ° C.
• opacity is then measured using a Minolta CR-400 colorimeter from the Y values of the black and white parts obtained in the tristimular system (X, Y, Z).
• the opacity value is obtained from the following equation
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a semi-liquid to pasty texture, having a shear rate equal to a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s, preferably greater than 20,000 Pa.s, and especially less than 1,000,000 Pa.s.
• the cosmetic kits according to the invention comprise at least a first and a second composition, at least one of the first and second compositions having a semi-liquid to pasty texture, having a shear rate of 10 ⁇ 3 s "1 , a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s, preferably greater than 20,000 Pa.s, and in particular less than 1,000,000 Pa.s.
• each of the compositions of the product for example each of the two compositions of the product, has a semi-liquid to pasty texture having a shear rate of 10 -3 s -1 , a viscosity greater than 10,000 Pa.s, preferably greater than 20,000 Pa.s, and in particular less than 1,000,000 Pa.s.
• the viscosity of a composition at different shear rates may in particular be measured using an imposed stress rheometer such as for example a Haake rheometer.
• RS 150 at a temperature of 25 ° C.
• silicone compound is meant a polyorganosiloxane compound, that is to say comprising at least two organosiloxane units, for example at least 5 organosiloxane units, in particular at least 10 organosiloxane units.
• at least one of the compounds X and Y, or the compounds X and the compounds Y are silicone.
• Compounds X and Y may be amino or non-amino.
• At least one of the compounds X and Y is a polymer whose main chain is formed mainly of organosiloxane units.
• silicone compounds mentioned below some may have both film-forming and adhesive properties, for example according to their proportion of silicone or according to whether they are used in admixture with a particular additive. It is therefore possible to modulate the film-forming properties or the adhesive properties of such compounds according to the intended use, this is particularly the case for so-called "room temperature vulcanization" reactive silicone elastomers.
• Compounds X and Y may react together at a temperature ranging from room temperature to 180 ° C.
• compounds X and Y may react together at ambient temperature (20 ⁇ 5 ° C.) and pressure. atmospheric, or advantageously in the presence of a catalyst, by a hydrosilylation reaction or a condensation reaction, or a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide.
• At least one of the compounds X and Y for example the compound X, carries at least one polar group capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with the keratin materials.
• polar group is meant a group comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms in its chemical structure and at least one heteroatom (such as O, N, S and P), such that said group is capable of establishing at least one link hydrogen with keratin materials.
• Compounds bearing at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond are particularly advantageous because they provide the compositions containing them with better adhesion to keratin materials.
• the at least one polar group (s) carried by at least one of the compounds X and Y is / are capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, and comprises (s) either a hydrogen atom linked to an electronegative atom, an electronegative atom such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur.
• the group comprises a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom
• the hydrogen atom may interact with another electronegative atom carried, for example by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond.
• the electronegative atom may interact with a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom carried, for example by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond.
• these polar groups can be chosen from the following groups: carboxylic acids -COOH,
• alcohols such as: -CH 2 OH or -CH (R) OH
• R being an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, amino of formula -NRiR 2 , in which the R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or one of R 1 or R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, and the other of R 1 and R 2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, pyridino, amido of formula -NH-COR or -CO-NH-R in which R 'represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, pyrrolidino preferably chosen from groups of formula:
• R 1 being an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
• these polar groups are present at a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight of each compound X or Y, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example in a content ranging from 1 to 3% by weight.
• the polar group (s) may be located in the main chain of the compound X and / or Y or may be pendant to the main chain or located at the ends of the main chain of the compound X and / or Y.
• 1- X and Y compounds likely to react by hydrosilylation
• the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting of to apply on said irregularities a filling product resulting from a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst between two compounds X and Y at least one of which is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with one of the other in the presence of a catalyst so that said reaction occurs at least in part on the skin.
• a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting of to apply on said irregularities a filling product resulting from a hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst between two compounds X and Y at least one of which is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with one of the other in the presence of a catalyst so that said reaction occurs at least in part on the skin
• the compounds X and Y are capable of reacting by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst, this reaction being able to be schematically simplified as follows:
• Si-H CH CH-W Si-CH 9 -CH 9 -W
• W representing a carbon and / or silicone chain containing one or more unsaturated aliphatic groups.
• the compound X may be chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups.
• the compound X may be a polyorganosiloxane comprising a silicone main chain whose unsaturated aliphatic groups are pendant to the main chain (lateral group) or located at the ends of the main chain of the compound (terminal group).
• these particular compounds will be called polyorganosiloxanes with unsaturated aliphatic groups.
• the compound X and / or the compound Y carries at least one polar group, as described above, capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with the keratin materials.
• This polar group is advantageously carried by the compound X which comprises at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups.
• the compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups, for example two or three vinyl or allylic groups, each bonded to a silicon atom. According to an advantageous embodiment, the compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising siloxane units of formula:
• R ' is an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, preferably a vinyl group.
• R represents an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or else a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl radical, and R 'is a vinyl group.
• the polyorganosiloxane also comprises units of formula:
• the compound X may be a silicone resin comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, said resin being capable of reacting with the compound Y by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst.
• These resins are crosslinked organosiloxane polymers.
• silicone resins are known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
• the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 2 Z 2 , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
• the letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms
• T represents a trifunctional unit of the formula (CH 3) Si0 3/2.
• At least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
• a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
• the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional SiO 4/2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
• resins include silicone resins MT such as poly (phenyl-vinylsilsesquioxane) such as those sold under the reference SST-3PV1 by the company Gelest.
• the compounds X comprise from 0.01 to 1% by weight of unsaturated aliphatic groups.
• the compound X is chosen from polyorganopolysiloxanes, especially those comprising the siloxane units (I) and optionally (II) previously described.
• the compound Y preferably comprises at least two free Si-H groups (hydrogenosilane groups).
• R represents a linear or cyclic monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; , in particular a methyl radical, or else a phenyl group and p is equal to 1 or 2.
• R is a hydrocarbon group, preferably methyl.
• polyorganosiloxane compounds Y with alkylhydrogenosiloxane units may also comprise units of formula:
• the compound Y may be a silicone resin comprising at least one unit selected from the units M, D, T, Q as defined above and comprising at least one Si-H group such as the marketed poly (methyl-hydridosilsesquioxane) under the reference SST-3MH1.1 by the company Gelest.
• these polyorganosiloxane compounds Y comprise from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of Si-H groups.
• radicals R represent a methyl group in formulas (I), (II), (III) above.
• these polyorganosiloxanes Y comprise terminal groups of formula (CHs) 3 SiOiZ 2 .
• the polyorganosiloxanes Y comprise at least two alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula - (H 3 C) (H) SiO- and optionally comprise - (H 3 C) 2 SiO- units.
• the compound X is chosen from oligomers or organic polymers (by organic means compounds whose main chain is non-silicone, preferably compounds not comprising silicon atoms) or from polymers or oligomers organic / silicone hybrids, said oligomers or polymers bearing at least 2 reactive unsaturated aliphatic groups, the compound Y being chosen from the polyorganosiloxanes Y with hydrogenosilane groups mentioned above.
• the organic compounds X or hybrid organic / silicone bearing at least 2 reactive unsaturated aliphatic groups carry at least one polar group as described above.
• Compound X may then be chosen from vinyl, (meth) acrylic polymers or oligomers, polyesters, polyurethanes and / or polyureas, polyethers, perfluoropolyethers, polyolefins such as polybutene, polyisobutylene and the like. dendrimers or organic hyperbranched polymers, or mixtures thereof.
• the organic polymer or the organic part of the hybrid polymer may be chosen from the following polymers: a) polyesters with ethylenic unsaturation (s):
• polyester type having at least 2 ethylenic double bonds, distributed randomly in the main chain of the polymer.
• unsaturated polyesters are obtained by polycondensation of a mixture of: linear or branched or cycloaliphatic aliphatic carboxylic diacids containing especially from 3 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 20 and better still from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid or sebacic acid, of aromatic dicarboxylic acids having in particular from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phthalic acids, especially terephthalic acid; and / or dicarboxylic acids derived from dimer fatty acids ethylenic unsaturations such as the dimers of oleic or linoleic acids described in EP-A-959 066 (paragraph [0021]) sold under the names Pripol ® by Unichema or Empol ® company
• polyesters with (meth) acrylate groups and / or terminal It is a group of polymers of the polyester type obtained by polycondensation of a mixture of linear or branched aliphatic carboxylic or cycloaliphatic dicarboxylic acids including 3 at 50 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 20 and better still from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid or sebacic acid, of aromatic dicarboxylic acids having in particular from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phthalic acids, especially terephthalic acid, and / or dicarboxylic acids derived from dimers of ethylenically unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic or linoleic acid dimers described in EP-A- 959 066 (paragraph [0021]) marketed under the names Pripol® by Unichema or Empol® by Henkel, all these diacids to be free
• polyesters differ from those described above under point a) in that the ethylenic double bonds are not located in the main chain but on side groups or at the end of the chains. These ethylenic double bonds are those of (meth) acrylate groups present in the polymer.
• polyesters are sold, for example, by the company UCB under the names EBECRYL® (EBECRYL® 450: molar mass 1600, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule, EBECRYL® 652: molar mass 1500, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule, EBECRYL ® 800: molar mass 780, on average 4 acrylate functions per molecule, EBECRYL® 810: molar mass 1000, on average 4 acrylate functions per molecule, EBECRYL® 50 000: molar mass 1500, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule).
• EBECRYL® 450 molar mass 1600, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 652 molar mass 1500, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL ® 800 molar mass 780, on average 4 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 810 molar mass 1000, on average 4 acryl
• polyurethanes and / or polyureas containing (meth) acrylate groups obtained by polycondensation: cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic aliphatic diisocyanates, triisocyanates and / or polyisocyanates having in particular from 4 to 50, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylenediisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane diisocyanate or isocyanurates of the formula:
• R-NCO resulting from the trimerization of 3 molecules of OCN-R-CNO diisocyanates, where R is a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon radical containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms; polyols, especially diols, free of polymerizable ethylenic unsaturations, such as 1,4-butanediol, ethylene glycol or trimethylolpropane, and / or polyamines, especially diamines, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic having especially 3 to 50 carbon atoms, such as ethylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine, and at least one (meth) acrylic acid ester and a diol or polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 2-hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and glycerol methacrylate.
• R is a linear,
• Such polyurethanes / polyureas containing acrylate groups are sold, for example, under the name SR 368 (tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate-triacrylate) or CRAYNOR® 435 by the company Cray Valley, or under the name EBECRYL® by the company UCB (EBECRYL).
• EBECRYL® 210 1500 molar mass, 2 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 230 5000 molar mass, 2 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 270 1500 molar mass, 2 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 8402 1000 molar mass, 2 acrylate function per molecule
• EBECRYL® 8804 mass molar 1300, 2 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 220 1000 molar mass, 6 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 2220 1200 molar mass, 6 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL® 1290 1000 molar mass, 6 acrylate functions per molecule
• EBECRYL 800 800 molar mass, 6 acrylate functions per molecule).
• Polyoxyethylene di (meth) acrylate of suitable molar mass are commercially available for example under the names SR 259, SR 344, SR 610, SR 210, SR 603 and SR 252 by the company CRAY VALLEY or under the name EBECRYL® 11 by UCB.
• Polyethoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylates are sold, for example, under the names SR 454, SR 498, SR 502, SR 9035, SR 415 by the company Cray Valley or under the name EBECRYL® 160 by the company UCB.
• Polypropoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylates are sold, for example, under the names SR 492 and SR 501 by the company Cray Valley.
• oils bearing at least 2 epoxide groups such as epoxidized soybean oil, epoxidized linseed oil and epoxidized vernonia oil,
• a phenol-formaldehyde polycondensate (Novolac ® resin), the ends and / or side groups have been epoxidized, and one or more carboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids having at least one ethylenic double bond in ⁇ , ⁇ of the carboxylic group such as (meth) acrylic acid or crotonic acid or esters of (meth) acrylic acid and a diol or polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as 2-hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate.
• carboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids having at least one ethylenic double bond in ⁇ , ⁇ of the carboxylic group
• Such polymers are sold, for example under the names SR 349, SR 601, CD 541, SR 602, SR 9036, SR 348, CD 540, SR 480, 9038 CD by the company Cray Valley, under the names EBECRYL ® 600 and EBECRYL ® 609, EBECRYL ® 150, EBECRYL ® 860, EBECRYL ® 3702 by the company UCB and under the names PHOTOMER ® 3005 and PHOTOMER ® 3082 by the company HENKEL.
• poly (meth) acrylates of (C 1 -C 5 ) alkyl said alkyl being linear, branched or cyclic, comprising at least two functions with ethylenic double bond borne by the side and / or terminal hydrocarbon chains.
• copolymers are sold for example under the names IRR® 375, OTA® 480 and EBECRYL® 2047 by the company UCB.
• polyolefins such as polybutene, polyisobutylene,
• the hyperbranched polymers are polycondensates, generally of polyester, polyamide or polyethyleneamine type, obtained from multifunctional monomers, which have a tree structure similar to that of dendrimers but much less regular than this one (see for example WO-A-93). / 17060 and WO 96/12754).
• the company PERSTORP markets under the name BOLTORN® hyperbranched polyesters. COMBURST® of the company DENDRITECH will be found under hyperramifluated polyethyleneamines. Poly (esteramide) hyperramified hydroxyl ends are marketed by DSM under the name HYBRANE®.
• dendrimers and hyperbranched polymers esterified or amidified with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid are distinguished from the polymers described under points a) to h) above by the very large number of ethylenic double bonds present. This high functionality, most often greater than 5, makes them particularly useful by allowing them to play a role of "crosslinking node", that is to say of multiple crosslinking site.
• dendritic and hyperbranched polymers can thus be used in combination with one or more of the polymers and / or oligomers a) to h) above.
• compositions comprising compound X and / or Y may further comprise an additional reactive compound such as:
• organic or inorganic particles comprising at their surface at least 2 unsaturated aliphatic groups, for example silicas surface-treated for example with silicone compounds with vinyl groups such as, for example, cyclotetramethyltetravinylsiloxane-treated silica,
• silazane compounds such as hexamethyldisilazane.
• the hydrosilylation reaction is carried out in the presence of a catalyst which may be present with one or other of the compounds X or Y or may be present in isolation.
• this catalyst may be present in the composition in an encapsulated form if the two compounds X and Y, whose interaction it is to cause, are present in the same composition in an unencapsulated form or conversely there may be present in an unencapsulated form if at least one of X and Y is present in the composition in an encapsulated form.
• the catalyst is preferably based on platinum or tin.
• platinum catalysts deposited on a silica gel or charcoal powder (charcoal) support platinum chloride, platinum and chloroplatinic acid salts.
• the chloroplatinic acids are preferably used in hexahydrate or anhydrous form, which is easily dispersible in organosilicone media.
• platinum complexes such as those based on chloroplatinic acid hexahydrate and divinyl tetramethyldisiloxane.
• the catalyst may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
• Compounds X and / or Y may be combined with polymerization inhibitors or retarders, and more particularly catalyst inhibitors.
• polymerization inhibitors or retarders and more particularly catalyst inhibitors.
• ionic salts such as sodium acetate may influence the rate of polymerization of the compounds.
• the compounds X and Y are chosen from silicone compounds capable of reacting by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst; in particular, compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula (I) described above and compound Y is chosen from organosiloxanes comprising alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula (III) described above.
• the compound X is a polydimethylsiloxane with terminal vinyl groups
• the compound Y is a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane
• the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting of applying to said irregularities a filling product resulting from a condensation reaction, optionally in the presence of a catalyst, between two compounds X and Y at least one of which is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with one another on the other, optionally in the presence of a catalyst, so that said reaction occurs at least in part on the skin.
• a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting of applying to said irregularities a filling product resulting from a condensation reaction, optionally in the presence of a catalyst, between two compounds X and Y at least one of which is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with one another on the other, optionally in the presence of a catalyst, so that
• compounds X and Y are capable of reacting by condensation, either in the presence of water (hydrolysis) by reaction of 2 compounds bearing alkoxysilane groups, or by so-called “direct” condensation by reaction of a compound carrier group (s) alkoxysilane (s) and a silanol group (s) carrier compound (s) or by reaction of 2 silanol group (s) bearing compounds (s).
• the condensation When the condensation is done in the presence of water, it can be in particular the ambient humidity, the residual water of the skin, the lips of the eyelashes and / or the nails, or the water brought by an external source for example by prior wetting of the keratinous material (for example by a misting agent, natural or artificial tears).
• the compounds X and Y which are identical or different, may therefore be chosen from silicone compounds whose main chain comprises at least two alkoxysilane groups and / or at least two silanol groups (Si-OH), side and / or at the end of the chain.
• the compound X and / or the compound Y carries at least one polar group, as described above, capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with the keratin materials.
• the compounds X and / or Y are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two alkoxysilane groups.
• alkoxysilane group is meant a group comprising at least one -Si-OR moiety, R being an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• the compounds X and Y are in particular chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising alkoxysilane end groups, more specifically those which comprise at least 2 terminal alkoxysilane groups, preferably terminal trialkoxysilanes.
• the groups R 9 independently of one another a radical selected from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl, fluoroalkyl groups, and s is O, 1, 2 or 3.
• the groups R 9 represent, independently of one another, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• alkyl group there may be mentioned in particular methyl, propyl, butyl, hexyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl.
• the fluoroalkyl group 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl may be mentioned.
• the compounds X and Y which are identical or different, are polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula:
• R 9 is as described above, preferably R 9 is a methyl radical, and f is such that the polymer advantageously has a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 0.5 to 3000 Pa.s, preferably ranging from from 5 to 150 Pa.s; for example, f may range from 2 to 5000, preferably from 3 to 3000, and preferably from 5 to 1000.
• These compounds X and Y polyorganosiloxanes comprise at least 2 terminal trialkoxysilane groups per polymer molecule, said groups having the following formula
• the R radicals independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
• R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is 0 or 1, preferably x is 0 and
• Z is chosen from: divalent hydrocarbon groups not containing ethylenic unsaturation and comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 18 carbon atoms (alkylene groups), combinations of divalent hydrocarbon radicals and siloxane segments of formula (IX) below: 9 R9 .. S1 * (IX)
• G is a divalent hydrocarbon radical having no ethylenic unsaturation and comprising 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 18 carbon atoms and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
• Z and G may be chosen especially from alkylene groups such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, hexylene, arylene groups such as phenylene.
• Z is an alkylene group, and better ethylene.
• the various polyorganosiloxanes are present in contents such that the terminal organosilyl chains represent less than 40%, preferably less than 25% by weight. number of terminal chains.
• Particularly preferred compounds X and / or Y polyorganosiloxanes are those of formula (VII) described above. Such compounds X and / or Y are described, for example, in WO 01/96450.
• the compounds X and Y may be the same or different.
• compounds X and Y may represent a mixture of polydimethylsiloxanes containing methoxysilane groups.
• one of the two reactive compounds X or Y is of a silicone nature and the other is of organic nature.
• the compound X is chosen from oligomers or organic polymers or oligomers or hybrid organic / silicone polymers, said polymers or oligomers comprising at least two alkoxysilane groups and Y is chosen from silicone compounds such as the polyorganosiloxanes described above.
• the organic oligomers or polymers are chosen from vinyl, (meth) acrylic, polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes and / or polyureas, polyethers, polyolefins, perfluoropolyethers, dendrimers and organic hyperbranched polymers, and mixtures thereof.
• the compound X of organic nature or of organic hybrid / silicone nature carries at least one polar group, such as described above, capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with the keratin material.
• the organic polymers of vinyl or (meth) acrylic nature bearing alkoxysilane side groups may in particular be obtained by copolymerization of at least one vinylic organic monomer or (meth) acrylic with a (meth) acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, a vinyl trimethoxysilane, a vinyltriethoxysilane, an allyltrimethoxysilane etc.
• the organic polymers resulting from a polycondensation or a polyaddition may result for example from the reaction of a oligomeric prepolymer as described above with one of the following silane co-reactants bearing at least one alkoxysilane group: aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, aminopropyltriethoxysilane, aminoethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltriethoxysilane, epoxycyclohexylethyltrimethoxysilane, mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane.
• polyethers and polyisobutylenes with alkoxysilane groups are described in the publication by KUSABE.M., Pitture e Vermaschine - European Coating; 12-B, pp. 43-49, 2005.
• polyurethanes having terminal alkoxysilane groups include those described in PROBSTER, M., Adhesion-Kleben & Dichten, 2004, 481 (1-2), p.12 -14 or those described in the document LANDON, S., Pitture e Vermaschine vol. 73, No. 11, pages 18-24, 1997 or in the document HUANG, Mowo, Pitture e Vermaschine Vol. 5, 2000, pages 61-67, there may be mentioned polyurethanes alkoxysilane groups of OSI-WITCO-GE.
• MQ or MT type resins itself bearing alkoxysilane and / or silanol ends
• poly (isobutylsilsesquioxane) resins functionalized by groups.
• silanols proposed under the reference SST-S7C41 (3 Si-OH groups) by Gelest.
• the compound X and / or Y may be further associated with an additional reactive compound comprising at least two alkoxysilane or silanol groups.
• An organic or inorganic particle or particles comprising, on their surface, alkoxysilane and / or silanol groups, for example fillers surface-treated with such groups.
• the condensation reaction may be carried out in the presence of a metal catalyst which may be present with one or other of the compounds X or Y or may be present in isolation.
• this catalyst may be present in the composition in an encapsulated form if the two compounds X and Y, whose interaction it is to cause, are present in the same composition in an unencapsulated form or conversely there may be present in an unencapsulated form if at least one of X and Y is present in the composition in an encapsulated form.
• the catalyst useful in this type of reaction is preferably a titanium-based catalyst.
• the catalyst may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it. 2c - Thinner
• compositions comprising X and / or Y may further comprise a volatile silicone oil (or diluent) for decreasing the viscosity of the composition.
• This oil may be chosen from linear short chain silicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
• This silicone oil may represent from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting in applying to said irregularities a filler resulting from a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, between two compounds X and Y, the at least one is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with each other in the presence of a peroxide, so that said reaction occurs at least in part on the skin.
• a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example the cutaneous microrelief, consisting in applying to said irregularities a filler resulting from a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, between two compounds X and Y, the at least one is a silicone compound, said compounds being brought into contact with each other in the presence of a peroxide, so that said reaction occurs at least in part on
• This reaction is preferably carried out by heating at a temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 80 ° C., up to 120 ° C.
• the compounds X and Y which are identical or different, comprise in this case at least two -CH 3 side groups and / or at least two side chains carrying a -CH 3 group.
• the compounds X and Y are preferably silicone and may be chosen, for example, from high molecular weight non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes having a degree of polymerization of greater than 6 having at least two -CH 3 side groups bonded to the silicon atom. and / or at least two side chains bearing a group -CH 3 . Mention may be made, for example, of the polymers described in the "Reactive Silicone” Catalog of Gelest Inc., Edition 2004, page 6, and in particular the copolymers (also called gums) of vinylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane with molecular weights ranging from 500,000 to 900. 000 and especially viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt.
• Peroxides that can be used in the context of the invention include benzoyl peroxide, 2,4-dichlorobenzoyl peroxide and mixtures thereof.
• the hydrosilylation reaction in the presence of a catalyst, or the condensation reaction, or even the crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, between the compounds X and Y is accelerated by a contribution of heat by raising for example the temperature of the system between 25 0 C and 180 0 C.
• the molar percentage of X with respect to all compounds X and Y may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90%, more preferably from 20% to 80%.
• the molar percentage of Y relative to the set of compounds X and Y ie the ratio Y / (X + Y) ⁇ 100, can vary from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90%, more preferably from 20% to 80%.
• Compound X may have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of from 150 to 1,000,000, preferably from 200 to 800,000, more preferably from 200 to 250,000.
• Mw weight average molecular weight
• Compound Y can have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of from 200 to 1,000,000, preferably from 300 to 800,000, more preferably from 500 to 250,000.
• Mw weight average molecular weight
• the compound X may represent from 0.1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it, preferably from 1% to 90%, and better still from 5% to 80%.
• Compound Y may represent from 0.1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80%.
• the ratio between the compounds X and Y may be varied so as to modulate the reaction rate and therefore the film formation rate or in such a way as to adapt the properties of the film formed (for example its adhesive properties) according to the desired application. .
• the compounds X and Y may be present in a molar X / Y ratio ranging from 0.05 to 20 and better still from 0.1 to 10.
• the compounds X and Y may advantageously be associated with at least one filler.
• the kit according to the invention may for example comprise in at least one of the compositions a filler selected from silica or silica treated on the surface.
• the compounds X and Y can be used in the form of a single composition which then contains at least one of them or, if appropriate, the catalyst or peroxide if necessary to their interaction, in an encapsulated form.
• encapsulated forms of heart / shell type still called microcapsules or nanocapsules whose bark is of polymeric nature and the core contains the compound X, the compound Y, one of its compounds X and Y being optionally encapsulated with the catalyst or the peroxide if necessary for the interaction of the two compounds.
• this catalyst is not encapsulated with one or other of the compounds X or Y, it is present in the cosmetic composition containing the encapsulated forms.
• the encapsulated forms considered according to the invention are nanocapsules and are obtained by a so-called solvent switching technique, particularly illustrated in the documents EP 274 961 and EP 1 552 820.
• the bark of the nanocapsules of compound X or Y, implemented according to the invention is polymeric in nature, non-crosslinked, non-water soluble and not soluble in the heart of the capsules.
• all the polymers, of natural or synthetic origin are soluble in a water-immiscible solvent and in particular those having a melting point below the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure. (100 0 C), may be suitable.
• These polymers may be biodegradable, for example polyesters, or not.
• polymers of C 2 -C 12 alkyl cyanoacrylate polymers formed by poly-L-lactides, poly-DL-lactides, polyglycolides and corresponding copolymers, polycaprolactones, polymers of the acid 3- butyric hydroxy, copolymers of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate, copolymers of acid and methacrylic ester, especially methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid ester, polyvinyl acetate phthalate, cellulose acetate phthalate, polyvinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, polyethylenevinylacetates, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycols, poly (C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl methacrylates) cellulose and C 1 -C 4 carboxylic acid esters, polystyrene and copolymers of styrene and maleic anhydride, copolymers of styrene and acrylic acid,
• These polymers or copolymers may have a weight average molecular weight of between 1000 and 500 000 and in particular between 1500 and 100 000.
• Poly (alkylene adipate), organopolysiloxanes, polycaprolactones, cellulose acetophthalate, acetobutyrate, are particularly suitable for the invention.
• the lipophilic core may contain in addition to compound X or compound Y, at least one oil.
• the oil may be chosen from the oils described below for the oily phase.
• the oil is preferably a silicone oil.
• the encapsulated forms of compound X or compound Y may be coated with a lamellar phase.
• kits according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention and the compositions of the cosmetic process according to the invention may comprise at least one filler whose nature and quantity are such that the filling product obtained after interaction of X and Y is opaque.
• At least one of the compositions from which the filling product used in a process according to the invention is derived comprises at least one filler.
• These fillers may also advantageously make it possible to reinforce the effect of physical filling of the wrinkles of the face produced by the interaction of compounds X and Y according to the invention.
• silica and especially porous silica microparticles such as Silica Beads SB 150 SB700 ® ® and Miyoshi, average size of 5 microns
• the Sunspheres R -H series of Asahi Glass for example the Sunsphere H33 R , H51 R , and H53 ® sizes of 3, 5 and 5 microns respectively
• polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) powders such as Clariant Ceridust 9205F ® PTFE with an average size of 8 microns
• silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145 A ®, medium size 4.5 microns
• PTFE polytetrafluoroethylene
• hollow hemispherical silicone particles such as the NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto OiI and Fat
• powders of acrylic copolymers especially poly (meth) acrylate (PMMA), such as particulate PMMA Jurymer MBI ® Nihon midsize Junyoki 8 microns, hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead LH85 ® by the company Wacker, and vinylidene chloride-acrylonitrile microspheres expanded methylene methacrylate sold under the name Expancel ®
• polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid such as particulate polyethylene AC540 ® or the Flobeads EA 209 ® Sumitomo particles of mean size of 10 microns
• Such elastomeric powders are especially sold under the names KSP- 100 ®, KSP- 101 ® , KSP-102 ® , KSP-103 ® , KSP-104 ® , KSP-105 ® by Shin Etsu; mixtures of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane sold under the names KSG-6 ® and KSG-16 ® by the company Shin Etsu; composite talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica as for example those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 ® by the company Catalyst &Chemicals; polyamide (Nylon ® ) powders, such as Atofina type Orgasol ® Nylon 12 particles of average size 10 microns; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially microspheres formed from a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel ® by
• microspheres sold under the name Micropearl® ® F 80 ED by Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO ® by the company National Starch; and their mixtures.
• powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO ® by the company National Starch; and their mixtures.
• the filler may preferably be selected from silica, porous silica microparticles, silicone resin powders, polyethylene powders, mixtures of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane, expanded powders and mixtures thereof.
• the quantity of charges introduced obviously depends on the desired effect, but these can generally represent from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the product. , each composition or the sum of the weights of the first and second composition containing it.
• the amount of fillers in the filler can range from 10 to 35% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, of the total weight of said product.
• the product, the composition or one of the first and second compositions, especially when it is in paste form may comprise a wax.
• At least one of the compositions from which the filling product used in a process according to the invention is derived comprises, in addition, at least one wax.
• a wax within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than about 45 ° C. (measured by D. SC) and better than 50 0 C and up to 200 0 C, and having in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization.
• Waxes in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally having ester or hydroxyl functions.
• mineral waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax
• waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives
• waxes of plant origin such as Candelilla, Ouricurry, Car
• a wax having a starting melting temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C. and better still at least one wax whose starting melting temperature is greater than 65 ° C., such as carnauba wax, some polyethylene waxes and some microcrystalline waxes such as those sold under the name Microwax ®, particularly Microwax HW ®, the company Paramelt.
• starting melting temperature is meant herein the temperature at which a wax begins to melt. This temperature can be determined by DTA (differential thermal analysis) which makes it possible to obtain the thermogram (or melting curve) of the wax in question.
• the starting melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which a noticeable change of slope in the thermogram can be observed.
• the melting point meanwhile, represents the minimum point of said thermogram.
• the preparation of the composition or at least one step of this preparation in particular the preparation of the oily phase or a step for preparing the oily phase, in a screw mixer-extruder, subjected to a temperature gradient ranging from 100 ° C. to 20 ° C.
• Such a preparation is described in particular in applications EP 1 005 856, EP 1 005 857 and EP 1 013 267 .
• the wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the weight. total product, each of the compositions or the sum of the weights of the first and second composition containing it.
• the products according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention, and the compositions of the cosmetic process according to the invention may comprise at least one anti-aging active agent having at least one preventive effect and / or curative on at least one cutaneous sign of aging.
• anti-aging active agent having at least one preventive effect and / or curative on at least one cutaneous sign of aging.
• These compounds are active agents acting on the epidermis and / or the dermis.
• anti-aging active agent As an anti-aging active agent that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of all the active agents known for their activity on aging of the skin, such as ⁇ -hydroxy acids (for example lactic acid), ⁇ - hydroxy acids (eg salicylic acid), retinoids and their esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives (eg retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate), adenosine and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and C-glycosides and their derivatives (especially those described in application WO 02/051828) and in particular C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
• ⁇ -hydroxy acids for example lactic acid
• ⁇ - hydroxy acids eg salicylic acid
• retinoids and their esters retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives (eg retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate), adenos
• vitamins such as, for example, vitamins B3 or PP, B5, E, K1.
• the amount of anti-aging active agent obviously depends on the nature of the active ingredient and the desired effect, but this is generally from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of each of compositions or the sum of the weights of the first and second compositions.
• the anti-aging active agent is chosen from adenosine and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and C-glycosides and their derivatives, such as C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. .
• kits according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention and the compositions of the process according to the invention may also advantageously comprise interferential particles, such as, for example, small nacres or interference pigments.
• interferential particles may jointly provide the skin, coated with a film according to the invention, a complementary effect of lightening nature, unifying or even camouflage with respect to skin imperfections.
• they advantageously make it possible to reinforce the visual perception of the improvement in the surface appearance of the skin provided by the compositions considered according to the invention.
• interference particles may make it possible to provide a camouflage complementary effect such that the visual perception of the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, such as, for example, the cutaneous microrelief, is attenuated.
• the interference particles according to the invention can provide a transparency effect such that the effect provided by the corresponding composition at the skin does not affect almost, see not at all, the natural complexion of it.
• the expression "interference particles” designates any particle generally having a multilayer structure such that it allows the creation of a color effect by interfering with light rays that diffract and diffuse differently according to the nature of the layers. .
• these particles may have varying colors depending on the angle of view and the incidence of light.
• a multilayer structure means indifferently designating a structure formed of a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed of a substrate covered with at least two or even more consecutive layers.
• the multilayer structure may thus comprise one or even two layers, each layer, whether or not independent of the other layer (s), being made of at least one material selected from the group consisting of the materials MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.
• the multilayer structure is of inorganic nature.
• the interference particles considered according to the invention may be interferential pigments, or natural or synthetic nacres, monolayers or multilayers, in particular formed of a natural substrate based on, inter alia, mica and which is coated with one or more metal oxide layers.
• the interferential particles according to the invention are characterized by a mean size in volume generally less than 40 ⁇ m, in particular ranging from 0.5 to 40 ⁇ m, more particularly less than 30 ⁇ m, especially less than 20 ⁇ m, and in particular less than 15 ⁇ m. ⁇ m, and better from 1 to 15 ⁇ m, measured by a laser particle size analyzer, such as, for example, the Malvernet Mastersizer 2000 ® or the Broockhaven Instrument Corporation BI90 + ® .
• pearlescent agents preferably chosen from nacres of mica / tin oxide / titanium oxide such as for example those sold under the names TIMIRON SILK BLUE ®, TIMIRON ® SILK RED, GREEN SILK TIMIRON ® , TIMIRON SILK GOLD ® and TIMIRON SUPER SILK ® proposed by the company MERCK and mica / iron oxide / titanium oxide pearls such as for example FLAMENCO SATIN BLUE ® , FLAMENCO SATIN RED ® and FLAMENCO SATIN VIOLET ® proposed by the company ENGELHARD and their mixtures.
• interference particles are operated so as to be otherwise compatible with the requirements in terms of filling required according to the invention.
• these interference particles are present in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous effect in terms of color while preserving the natural complexion of the skin and / or lips.
• these particles may represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 7% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the product. of each of compositions or the sum of the weights of the first and second compositions.
• compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials of human beings and of appearance, odor and odor. pleasant touch.
• compositions according to the invention advantageously contain at least one liquid fatty phase.
• compositions according to the invention may be in the form of anhydrous compositions or emulsions.
• they can be in the anhydrous form.
• anhydrous composition denotes a composition which contains less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water relative to its total weight, and in particular a composition free of water.
• compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or H / E
• the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may for example be from 10/90 to 95/5, and preferably from 30/70 to 90/10.
• the aqueous phase may for example represent from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 30 to 98% by weight, better still from 60 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions according to the invention
• the phase oily may for example represent from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 2 to to 70% by weight, better from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions according to the invention.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (25 0 C), such as primary alcohols (monohydric alcohol Ci -C 3) such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
• organic solvents miscible with water 25 0 C
• primary alcohols monohydric alcohol Ci -C 3
• polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
• the amount of polyol (s) is generally from 0.05 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions according to the invention.
• the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
• the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
• the emulsifier is generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging for example from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
• hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
• esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RiCOOR 2 and RiOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a chain hydrocarbon, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate isostearyl; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates,
• linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam ® oil;
• natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, walnut nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot;
• fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; , oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
• silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
• PDMS volatile or non-volatile poly
• hydrocarbon-based oil in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
• compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil.
• volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Hg).
• Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane.
• Use may also be branched hydrocarbons such as, for example isododecane and volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ®” and "PF 5060 ®” by the company 3M and derivatives perfluoromorpholine such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ®” by the company 3M.
• branched hydrocarbons such as, for example isododecane and volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ®” and "PF 5060 ®” by the company 3M and derivatives perfluoromorpholine such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ®” by the company 3M.
• the amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures.
• These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention may further contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents; perfumes ; and thickeners and gelling agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants and their nature will be chosen so as not to impair the optical properties of the composition.
• one or more gelling agents may be incorporated in the composition, in particular hydrophilic, that is to say, water soluble or dispersible in water, or lipophilic.
• hydrophilic gelling agents mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company GOODRICH; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of
• modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium).
• RHEOX bentonite gel VS38 modified magnesium silicate
• CTFA name: Disteardimonium distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride
• hectorite marketed under the name "bentone 38 CE” by Rheox, or else silicone elastomers such as those sold under the names KSG-6 or KSG-16 by the company Shin Etsu.
• compositions containing the compounds X and Y according to the invention may also contain other adjuvants or cosmetic or conventional care additives, such as, for example, active agents, preserving agents, antiseptics, bactericides, softening agents, moisturizing agents such as polyols, buffers, humectants, UV filters (or sunscreens), bleaching and / or depigmenting agents, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, anti-free radical agents, electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH adjuster for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), as well as mixtures thereof.
• adjuvants or cosmetic or conventional care additives such as, for example, active agents, preserving agents, antiseptics, bactericides, softening agents, moisturizing agents such as polyols, buffers, humectants, UV filters (or sunscreens), bleaching and / or depigmenting agents, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, anti-free radical agents, electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH adjuster for example
• the invention is further illustrated by the exemplary filler described hereinafter.
• Microcrystalline waxes (Microwax HW) 6,00 g
• Acrylic Acid / Ethylene Copolymer (Polyethylene AC 540) 3.00 g
• the charged polyamide particles are prepared in the following manner: a solution containing 2 g of adenosine, 100 ml of water, 0.5 g of an ethylene oxide / propylene oxide / ethylene oxide copolymer (128 EO) / 54 OP / 128 EO - Poloxamer 338 from UNIQEMA) and 5 g of an IN hydrochloric acid solution is carried out. This solution is maintained stirring at room temperature until complete solubilization of the active. 38 g of Nylon-12 (Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204 - ARKEMA) are then dispersed in this solution, then the dispersion is transferred into a flask and the water is evaporated under Rotavapor at 40 ° C. for 8 hours. Thus, after complete evaporation of the solvent, a powder consisting of nylon particles whose pores are filled with adenosine in solid form is obtained.
• Microcrystalline waxes (Microwax HW) 6,00 g
• Acrylic Acid / Ethylene Copolymer (Polyethylene AC 540) 3.00 g
• the first and second compositions are extemporaneously mixed in a 50/50 weight ratio.
• This mixture is then applied to the lines and wrinkles of the outline of the goose and crow's feet of a panel of women with mature skin, for which there is then a significant decrease in wrinkles and fine lines.
• Microcrystalline waxes (Microwax HW) 4.00 g
• Acrylic Acid / Ethylene Copolymer (Polyethylene AC 540) 3.00 g
• Microcrystalline waxes (Microwax HW) 4.00 g
• Acrylic Acid / Ethylene Copolymer (Polyethylene AC 540) 3.00 g
• the first and second compositions are extemporaneously mixed in a 50/50 weight ratio.
• This mixture is then applied to the lines and wrinkles of the outline of the goose and crow's feet of a panel of women with mature skin, for which there is then a significant decrease in wrinkles and fine lines.

Landscapes

• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=38289874

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Families Citing this family (10)

Family Cites Families (14)

• 2006
  • 2006-12-20 FR FR0655727A patent/FR2910300B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2007
  • 2007-12-19 EP EP07871976A patent/EP2099428A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2007-12-19 BR BRPI0720408-6A patent/BRPI0720408A2/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2007-12-19 WO PCT/FR2007/052563 patent/WO2008087325A2/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2007-12-19 US US12/519,271 patent/US20100047298A1/en not_active Abandoned

Non-Patent Citations (1)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events