Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
  • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
  • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
  • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
  • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/02—Cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
  • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
  • D10B2201/24—Viscose
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
  • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
  • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
  • D10B2211/02—Wool
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

• the present invention concerns the field of textile manufacturing, and in particular it regards a new method for producing knitwear garments with a high percentage of cashmere or other animal fibres.
• the yarn employed in the standard production of cashmere is composed of two plies, each of which has a thickness defined by a metric count not less than 26 Nm (that is, 26000 m for a kg of yarn), and up to 40 Nm and beyond.
• the production of so fine a yarn, with the carded spinning system requires the use of cashmere fibres of particular length, not less than 32-34 mm for the 26 Nm count, and increasingly greater up to 42 mm (which is about the maximum found in nature) for the counts greater than 40 Nm.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a new method for producing knitwear garments made of cashmere or other animal fibres which permits to obtain a result, in terms of quality of the finished garment, that is entirely comparable to that obtainable according to the prior art, but with a considerable cost decrease.
• the garment thus obtained acquires the same aspect of a traditionally obtained garment in pure cashmere, with even an improved quality due to the fact that the eliminated cellulose fibres leave empty spaces inside the yarn, which thus tends to be more voluminous and soft than one obtained via standard production.
• the carbonisation or carbonising step is preferably of dry type with hydrochloric acid vapours; such treatment permits attacking the cellulose component without damaging the keratin component of the animal fibre. Even though they may cause a slight qualitative decline, other carbonisation systems of known type (for example, in sulphuric acid bath) can be used for obtaining a still satisfactory result. A final washing will in any case ensure the elimination of every carbonised residue, thus giving the garment a pure animal fibre composition. Other finishing treatments can follow in accordance with the prior art (dyeing, ironing etc.).
• the first step of the process consists in making a yarn, through the traditional techniques and equipment of wool spinning, starting from a raw material consisting of animal textile fibres, for example and typically cashmere fibres, advantageously of short type (i.e. with length less than 32 mm), added with a certain amount of cellulose textile fibres, such as viscous or cotton fibres having, as known, greater lengths than those of the abovementioned animal fibres.
• the amount of cellulose fibres is at least about 8% by weight with respect to the total weight of the animal fibre (8 units by weight of cellulose fibres for every 100 units of animal fibres), preferably about 15% and in any case not greater than 40%.
• the mixture of fibres thus obtained leads to the obtainment of a mixed yarn, which is then in turn used for the weaving or knitting step, aimed at obtaining the garment (directly or following an assembly step of the various parts, as in the case of garments such as shirts, jackets or the like).
• the long cotton, viscose or other similar fibres carry out an effective retaining and binding action of the short animal fibres, conferring the strength required for the knitting or weaving.
• the third step of the process provides for a treatment capable of eliminating such fibres, restoring the garment, and the yarn with which it is made, to a composition 100% cashmere (or other animal fibre), without damaging the latter.
• a carbonisation treatment with hydrochloric acid vapours has been identified as particularly suitable. Indeed, rather than an actual combustion of the cellulose material, this treatment causes its disintegration via hydrolysis, following which it can be easily eliminated by subsequent beating and washing.
• Treatments of this type are known and applied for freeing the wool material, in tufts or fabric piece state, from the impurities of cellulose nature (vegetable detritus).
• the treatment can be made both continuously and discontinuously, subjecting the garments for example to HCL vapours at the concentration of 17° Bé [Baumé degrees] at the temperature of 80° C (110%, max 112°C) in the proportion of 8-10% of the weight of the material to be treated.
• the operation has a cycle of about two-hour duration, in rotating drum equipment in which the acid, vaporised by a boiler, is fed through suitably formed axial channels.
• the garments leaving from the carbonisation step once they have undergone a washing to eliminate all the residues, acquire a 100% cashmere composition, like those obtained with the traditional processes; the yarn composes them returns to a finer count than that of the intermediate mixed yarn.
• the aspect of the garment therefore has all the quality features conferred by the use of the high quality fibre, with actually an increased softness and voluminosity that derives from the empty spaces left by the cellulose fibres.
• the process according to the invention can be used for other animal textile fibres.
• the process that provides for the support of cellulose fibres in the yarn, and the subsequent carbonisation of the garment for the elimination of the same can be extended to the use in spinning of any animal fibre and for any yarn count, when one wishes to attain the objective of increasing the otherwise insufficient strength of the yarn, given the same quality of the employed animal fibre, or employing animal fibres of lower length, given the same strength of the yarn, or a combination of both.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Priority Applications (1)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Publications (1)

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (1)

Cited By (4)

Citations (5)

• 2008
  • 2008-03-06 EP EP08425138A patent/EP2098623A1/de not_active Withdrawn

Patent Citations (5)

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