CN105908541A - 弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法 - Google Patents

弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法 Download PDF

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CN105908541A
CN105908541A CN201610464842.1A CN201610464842A CN105908541A CN 105908541 A CN105908541 A CN 105908541A CN 201610464842 A CN201610464842 A CN 201610464842A CN 105908541 A CN105908541 A CN 105908541A
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wool
mercerization australian
dyeing
yarn
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朱跃文
沈伟凤
高士勇
陈学彪
黄炳其
陈东升
张晓丽
杨方瑜
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ZHEJIANG CHNST TEXTILE CO Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8209—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/17—Natural resins, resinous alcohols, resinous acids, or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/008—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/34—Polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/35—Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及一种纺织纱线领域，尤其是一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法；本发明的目的是提供一种具有弹性效果好和抗起球性能好的弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法；第一步，原料的选择：95～96%的100S丝光澳毛和4～5%的锦纶长丝，且100S丝光澳毛和锦纶长丝的总配比为100%；第二步，纯毛单丝的制备：将100S丝光澳毛通过散毛染色→和毛→梳毛→针梳→无捻粗纱→细纱→络筒，制备成多股纯毛单纱等；本发明所设计的一种弹性针织纱的制备加工方法，节省了细纱机的设备改造和复杂的操作，采用丝光澳毛和锦纶原料制备弹性纱线，不仅提高了针织纱的弹性和抗起球的性能，使提升了织物的使用性能。

Description

弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种纺织纱线领域，尤其是一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法。
背景技术
近年来，随着弹性面料使用量的不断增长，弹力纱的需求量也在不断攀升。目前市面上的弹力纱大多是包芯结构，在生产过程时需要使用专用的装置或设备才能进行加工；且现有的多数弹力纱普遍存在垂度较差、弹力不够稳定、不具备吸湿保温性等缺点。
针对以上问题，急需我们解决。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术的不足，提供一种具有弹性效果好和抗起球性能好的弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法。
为了达到上述目的，本发明所设计的一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法，步骤如下：第一步，原料的选择：95～96%的100S丝光澳毛和4～5%的锦纶长丝，且100S丝光澳毛和锦纶长丝的总配比为100%；第二步，纯毛单纱的制备：将100S丝光澳毛通过散毛染色→和毛→梳毛→针梳→无捻粗纱→细纱→络筒，制备成多股纯毛单纱；其中染色工艺是将100S丝光澳毛在室温下以浴比1:8～1:12进行配比，且还加入0.5～1g/L的冰醋酸、0.5～1g/L的匀染剂阿白格B和添加量为0～3%由浅到深的毛用活性染料，并保持5分钟，然后以每分钟0.8℃升温至50℃，再以每分钟１℃升温至85℃，并保持45～60分钟，然后停止升温，使其以每分钟0.8℃降温至70℃，并保持5分钟，然后再以每分钟1℃降温至50℃，最后自然冷却完成染色处理，且在整个染色过程中PH值保持在4～6；100S丝光澳毛在染色结束后PH值为5～7，即100S丝光澳毛在固色、中和、水洗后的PH值为5～7，染色牢度符合ISO国际标准；和毛工艺是将WAN和毛油与水先混合均匀，再加入0.3～0.5%XT-30的纱线增强剂充分搅拌混合好后，对100S丝光澳毛进行和毛处理，且WAN和毛油的添加量是100S丝光澳毛干重的0.8～1.2%，通过本方法进行和毛处理后，使产品的抗起球性能达到了3级以上；第三步，生产制备：以两股纯毛单纱与一股锦纶长丝的配比形式，通过并线→倍捻→蒸汽加湿定型，制备出一种弹性针织纱线；其中在倍捻时，超喂速比为20%，使用股纱捻系数77-80-85的上机工艺。
上述的毛用活性染料采用亨斯迈公司生产的。
上述的WAN和毛油采用英国CROSLUBE公司生产的。
本发明所设计的一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法，节省了细纱机的设备改造和复杂的操作，采用丝光澳毛和锦纶原料制备弹性纱线，不仅提高了针织纱的弹性和抗起球的性能，还提升了织物的使用性能。
具体实施方式
实施例1：
本实施例描述的一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法，步骤如下：第一步，原料的选择：95%的100S丝光澳毛和5%的锦纶长丝；第二步，纯毛单丝的制备：将95%的100S丝光澳毛通过散毛染色→和毛→梳毛→针梳→无捻粗纱→细纱→络筒，制备成多股纯毛单纱；其中染色工艺是将100S丝光澳毛在室温下以浴比1:8进行配比，且还加入0.5g/L的冰醋酸、0.5g/L的匀染剂阿白格B和1.5%由浅到深的毛用活性染料，并保持5分钟，然后以每分钟0.8℃升温至５0℃，再以每分钟１℃升温至85℃，并保持45分钟，然后停止升温，使其以每分钟0.8℃降温至70℃，并保持5分钟，然后再以每分钟1℃降温至50℃，最后自然冷却完成染色处理，且在整个染色过程中PH值保持在6，100S丝光澳毛在固色、中和、水洗后的PH值为6，染色牢度符合ISO国际标准；和毛工艺是将WAN和毛油与水先混合均匀，再加入0.3%XT-30的纱线增强剂充分搅拌混合好后，对100S丝光澳毛进行和毛处理，且WAN和毛油的添加量是100S丝光澳毛干重的0.8%；第三步，生产制备：以两股纯毛单纱与一股锦纶长丝的配比形式，通过并线→倍捻→蒸汽加湿定型，制备出一种弹性针织纱线。
以下是通过本制备方法制备出的弹性针织纱线的性能指标列表：
实施例2：
本实施例描述的一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法，步骤如下：第一步，原料的选择：96%的100S丝光澳毛和4%的锦纶长丝；第二步，纯毛单丝的制备：将96%的100S丝光澳毛通过散毛染色→和毛→梳毛→针梳→无捻粗纱→细纱→络筒，制备成多股纯毛单纱；其中染色工艺是将100S丝光澳毛在室温下以浴比1:12进行配比，且还加入1g/L的冰醋酸、1g/L的匀染剂阿白格B和3%由浅到深的毛用活性染料，并保持5分钟，然后以每分钟0.8℃升温至５0℃，再以每分钟１℃升温至85℃，并保持60分钟，然后停止升温，使其以每分钟0.8℃降温至70℃，并保持5分钟，然后再以每分钟1℃降温至50℃，最后自然冷却完成染色处理，且在整个染色过程中PH值保持在6，100S丝光澳毛在固色、中和、水洗后的PH值为7，染色牢度符合ISO国际标准；和毛工艺是将WAN和毛油与水先混合均匀，再加入0.5%XT-30的纱线增强剂充分搅拌混合好后，对100S丝光澳毛进行和毛处理，且WAN和毛油的添加量是100S丝光澳毛干重的1.2%；第三步，生产制备：以两股纯毛单纱与一股锦纶长丝的配比形式，通过并线→倍捻→蒸汽喷湿定型，制备出一种弹性针织纱线。
以下是通过本制备方法制备出的弹性针织纱线的性能指标列表：

Claims (1)

1.一种弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法，其特征在于：第一步，原料的选择：95～96%的100S丝光澳毛和4～5%的锦纶长丝，且100S丝光澳毛和锦纶长丝的总配比为100%；第二步，纯毛单纱的制备：将100S丝光澳毛通过散毛染色→和毛→梳毛→针梳→无捻粗纱→细纱→络筒，制备成多股纯毛单纱；其中染色工艺是将100S丝光澳毛在室温下以浴比1:8～1:12进行配比，且还加入0.5～1g/L的冰醋酸、0.5～1g/L的匀染剂阿白格B和添加量为0～3%由浅到深的毛用活性染料，并保持5分钟，然后以每分钟0.8℃升温至50℃，再以每分钟１℃升温至85℃，并保持45～60分钟，然后停止升温，使其以每分钟0.8℃降温至70℃，并保持5分钟，然后再以每分钟1℃降温至50℃，最后自然冷却完成染色处理，且在整个染色过程中PH值保持在4～6；100S丝光澳毛在染色结束后PH值为5～7，即100S丝光澳毛在固色、中和、水洗后的PH值为5～7，染色牢度符合ISO国际标准；和毛工艺是将WAN和毛油与水先混合均匀，再加入0.3～0.5%XT-30的纱线增强剂充分搅拌混合好后，对100S丝光澳毛进行和毛处理，且WAN和毛油的添加量是100S丝光澳毛干重的0.8～1.2%，通过本方法进行和毛处理后，使产品的抗起球性能达到了3级以上；第三步，生产制备：以两股纯毛单纱与一股锦纶长丝的配比形式，通过并线→倍捻→蒸汽加湿定型，制备出一种弹性针织纱线；其中在倍捻时，超喂速比为20%，使用股纱捻系数77-80-85的上机工艺。
CN201610464842.1A 2016-06-24 2016-06-24 弹性针织纱线的制备加工方法 Pending CN105908541A (zh)

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CN110629337B (zh) * 2019-09-26 2020-07-31 江苏联宏纺织有限公司 一种支数为56Nm的羊绒粗纺纱线生产方法

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