EP1967622A2 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1967622A2
EP1967622A2 EP08102250A EP08102250A EP1967622A2 EP 1967622 A2 EP1967622 A2 EP 1967622A2 EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 1967622 A2 EP1967622 A2 EP 1967622A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
extra
fibres
fine animal
animal fibres
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Application number
EP08102250A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1967622B1 (de
EP1967622A3 (de
Inventor
Jacopo Geraldini
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication of EP1967622A3 publication Critical patent/EP1967622A3/de
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • the doubling is carried out with an opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist, so as to avoid twists which the yarns of extra-fine cashmere fibres cannot tolerate, and thus obtain a final textile that is extremely soft and pleasant to the touch.
  • the doubling is carried out with opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist.
  • discontinuous water-soluble yarns are used, made up of fibres spun with cotton-type cut.
  • the object of the present invention has now been to create a process which enables the weaving of yarns in extra-fine animal fibres, particularly in cashmere fibres, using thinner water-soluble threads and reducing the "peeling" effect to a minimum.
  • the starting yarns can be of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be mixed yarns (in so-called "intimate mixture") of extra-fine animal fibres, for example of cashmere, and silk fibres. In both cases the yarns can have a fineness of between 50 and 200 dtex.
  • the continuous synthetic filaments can be much thinner than the yarns with animal fibres, with consequent saving in materials and associated economic benefits.
  • the twist for doubling the continuous filaments can be a Z twist of about 200 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 indicates a starting yarn with extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • Yam 1 can be made up of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be a mixed yarn 1 of extra-fine animal fibres and silk fibres, for example of composition 80%WS (cashmere) - 20%SE (silk) with an extra-fine fineness of 66 dtex.
  • Yam 1 is made using traditional spinning with a Z twist, preferably of 1100 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 is doubled with a continuous synthetic filament 2, made in so-called “water-soluble” material, i.e. soluble in slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature, in particular in polyvinyl material (PVA).
  • Continuous synthetic material 2 can be of the same fineness as yarn 1, as illustrated in figures 1 and 2 , or thinner.
  • Doubling is performed with a twist in the same direction as that of yarns 1, i.e. with a Z twist.
  • the doubling twist is of low level, preferably of about 200 turns per linear metre, so as not to create strength problems for yarns 1, and so as to obtain good softness for the final product, accompanied by an almost total absence of "peeling".
  • the raw textile thus created which can be in any weave such as plain, twill or jacquard, clearly has the same composition as doubled combinations 3.
  • This raw textile then undergoes a stage of purging by a dyeing-type process, in which it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per kilogram of polyvinyl with a slightly acid pH (about 4.5) at a temperature of between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • the synthetic filaments 2 are thus eliminated by dissolution or melting, leaving a final textile ( fig, 3 ) composed exclusively of yarns 1 and therefore having a final composition with a fineness of 66 dtex, which is impossible to achieve industrially with traditional techniques.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
EP08102250A 2007-03-09 2008-03-04 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne Active EP1967622B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000467A ITMI20070467A1 (it) 2007-03-09 2007-03-09 Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1967622A2 true EP1967622A2 (de) 2008-09-10
EP1967622A3 EP1967622A3 (de) 2008-10-08
EP1967622B1 EP1967622B1 (de) 2010-08-25

Family

ID=39276061

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP08102250A Active EP1967622B1 (de) 2007-03-09 2008-03-04 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1967622B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE478988T1 (de)
DE (1) DE602008002269D1 (de)
IT (1) ITMI20070467A1 (de)

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009098585A3 (en) * 2008-02-08 2009-10-01 Ghertex S.R.L. Process for making a multicomponent thread and multicomponent thread thus made
ITMI20081673A1 (it) * 2008-09-22 2010-03-23 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un filato sottile di fibre naturali animali o vegetali in puro o in mischia tra di loro atto alla realizzazione di un tessuto
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
EP2554733A1 (de) * 2011-08-05 2013-02-06 Alfonso Saibene Maschine zur Bereitstellung der Eignung zum Weben von dünnem Garn und/oder Kettfaden aus tierischen und/oder pflanzlichen und/oder künstlichen und/oder synthetischen Fasern in reinem Zustand oder einer Mischung daraus
ITMI20111901A1 (it) * 2011-10-19 2013-04-20 Alfonso Saibene Procedimento per il conferimento di idoneita' alla tessitura ad un filato e/o ordito sottili
CN104032428A (zh) * 2014-05-21 2014-09-10 苏州市吴中区甪直明达漂染厂 双重混纺编织耐高温纱
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
EP3162955A1 (de) 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN110219078A (zh) * 2019-04-22 2019-09-10 兔皇羊绒有限公司 一种羊绒大衣的制作方法
CN111893612A (zh) * 2020-07-02 2020-11-06 苏州维杰纺织有限公司 一种高弹抗静电包芯纱
IT202000017314A1 (it) * 2020-07-16 2022-01-16 Filatura Papi Fabio S P A Filato ed articolo tessile ottenuto con filato realizzato con processo di lavorazione cardato in combinazione con filamento di alcool polivinilico (pva)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103757777B (zh) * 2014-01-22 2016-03-30 宁波康赛妮毛绒制品有限公司 一种山羊绒与拉伸羊毛混纺纱线及其制备方法

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2592153A (en) 1941-04-11 1952-04-08 Alginate Ind Ltd Textile fabric
GB1068662A (en) 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
EP1061162A1 (de) 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1245706A1 (de) 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Verfahren zur Herstellung von sehr feinem Wollgewebe mit Einzelfäden in dem Schuss mit verbesserten Webeigenschaften

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20022195A1 (it) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere.
ITMI20070151A1 (it) * 2007-01-31 2008-08-01 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in fibre animali extrafini non tessibili industrialmente e tessuto cosi'ottenuto

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2592153A (en) 1941-04-11 1952-04-08 Alginate Ind Ltd Textile fabric
GB1068662A (en) 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
EP1061162A1 (de) 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1245706A1 (de) 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Verfahren zur Herstellung von sehr feinem Wollgewebe mit Einzelfäden in dem Schuss mit verbesserten Webeigenschaften

Cited By (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009098585A3 (en) * 2008-02-08 2009-10-01 Ghertex S.R.L. Process for making a multicomponent thread and multicomponent thread thus made
ITMI20081673A1 (it) * 2008-09-22 2010-03-23 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un filato sottile di fibre naturali animali o vegetali in puro o in mischia tra di loro atto alla realizzazione di un tessuto
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
EP2554733A1 (de) * 2011-08-05 2013-02-06 Alfonso Saibene Maschine zur Bereitstellung der Eignung zum Weben von dünnem Garn und/oder Kettfaden aus tierischen und/oder pflanzlichen und/oder künstlichen und/oder synthetischen Fasern in reinem Zustand oder einer Mischung daraus
US10174443B2 (en) 2011-10-19 2019-01-08 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn
WO2013057723A1 (en) * 2011-10-19 2013-04-25 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn
JP2014534355A (ja) * 2011-10-19 2014-12-18 カネパ エス．ピー．エー． 糸の可織性を改良するためのプロセス
EP2927356A1 (de) * 2011-10-19 2015-10-07 Canepa S.p.A. Verfahren zur verbesserung der webbarkeit eines garns
ITMI20111901A1 (it) * 2011-10-19 2013-04-20 Alfonso Saibene Procedimento per il conferimento di idoneita' alla tessitura ad un filato e/o ordito sottili
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
CN104032428A (zh) * 2014-05-21 2014-09-10 苏州市吴中区甪直明达漂染厂 双重混纺编织耐高温纱
EP3162955A1 (de) 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN110219078A (zh) * 2019-04-22 2019-09-10 兔皇羊绒有限公司 一种羊绒大衣的制作方法
CN110219078B (zh) * 2019-04-22 2021-09-21 兔皇羊绒有限公司 一种羊绒大衣的制作方法
CN111893612A (zh) * 2020-07-02 2020-11-06 苏州维杰纺织有限公司 一种高弹抗静电包芯纱
IT202000017314A1 (it) * 2020-07-16 2022-01-16 Filatura Papi Fabio S P A Filato ed articolo tessile ottenuto con filato realizzato con processo di lavorazione cardato in combinazione con filamento di alcool polivinilico (pva)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1967622B1 (de) 2010-08-25
ITMI20070467A1 (it) 2008-09-10
DE602008002269D1 (de) 2010-10-07
ATE478988T1 (de) 2010-09-15
EP1967622A3 (de) 2008-10-08

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