EP1953280B1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell gewebt werden können - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell gewebt werden können Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1953280B1
EP1953280B1 EP07123777A EP07123777A EP1953280B1 EP 1953280 B1 EP1953280 B1 EP 1953280B1 EP 07123777 A EP07123777 A EP 07123777A EP 07123777 A EP07123777 A EP 07123777A EP 1953280 B1 EP1953280 B1 EP 1953280B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibres
yarns
industrially
blended yarns
torsion
Prior art date
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Application number
EP07123777A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1953280A3 (de
EP1953280A2 (de
Inventor
Jacopo Geraldini
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Geraldini Jacopo
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Individual
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Publication of EP1953280A3 publication Critical patent/EP1953280A3/de
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for the production of a fabric made of extra fine animal fibres which cannot be women by an industrial machine.
  • fibre yarns having a very high count may industrially be made, for instance worsted yarns having a count in the range between 200 dtex and 50 dtex.
  • worsted yarns having a count in the range between 200 dtex and 50 dtex may be made, for instance worsted yarns having a count in the range between 200 dtex and 50 dtex.
  • such yarns have a kinetic resistance which is so low as not to allow them to be subjected to an industrial weaving operation, requiring a breaking strength not lower than 80-100 grams.
  • GB-A-1 068 662 discloses a bulky stretchable yarn of substantially solid structure, for example of silk, which is associated with a substantially unstretchable yarn, for example of wool, to obtain a two-ply yarn around which a binding yarn is helically twisted to form a three-ply yarn.
  • EP-A- 1 061 162 discloses a process for manufacturing a pure cashmere textile article in which first yarns of pure cashmere fibres are associated by doubling with second yarns of synthetic fibres which are then dissolved after weaving of the doubled yarns.
  • GB-A-775 387 discloses a process for manufacturing spun yarns in which a yarn is produced by mixing soluble and insoluble fibres.
  • CN-A-1 450 216 discloses a fabric made of extra fine animal fibres consisting only of blended yarns formed by animal fibres having a count in the range between 200 dtex and 50 dtex.
  • the process according to the present invention is characterised in that it comprises the sequence of steps recited in claim 1.
  • Fabrics made of extra fine animal fibres, specifically cashmere fibres, which up to now could not be subjected to industrial weaving, may be obtained industrially in this manner.
  • Blended yarns indeed allow to achieve incredibly high counts by mixing very soft though very low tenacity short fibres, such as extra fine cashmere fibres, with extremely fine and very high tenacity long fibres, such as silk.
  • the doubling is with carried out with yarns having substantially the same count and with a torsion in the direction opposite to that of the blended yarns.
  • the torsion of the single yarns is of the Z type and the doubling torsion is of the S type.
  • An extremely soft and together resistant fabric is the result of the doubling torsion in a direction opposite to that of the blended yarns, even though extra fine animal fibres which are not otherwise industrially weaveable have been used.
  • a blended yarn 1 formed by 80%WS - 20%SE with an extra fine 66 dtex count is considered here by way of example.
  • the yarn 1 has been made by traditional spinning with a Z torsion of 1100 rounds/linear meter.
  • the blended yarn 1 is then doubled with a yarn 2 having a substantially equivalent count, and a Z torsion of 1000 rounds/linear meter, consisting of synthetic (so-called "water-soluble") polyvinyl fibres (PVA). These fibres can be dissolved in a slightly acidic aqueous solution at a high temperature.
  • the yarn 2 may be made of spun fibres with a cotton cut (thus having a discontinuous nature).
  • the doubling is carried out with a S torsion of 440 rounds/linear meter, so as to obtain a correct final balancing of the doubled yarn.
  • the resulting doubled yarn is obviously made of 50%PVA, 40%WS and 10%SE.
  • an appropriate number of doubled yarns 3 is subsequently subjected to a traditional warp and weft weaving (or weaving on a circular Jersey type machine), in which the polyvinyl yarns 2 serve as a support to allow the weaving of the blended yarns 1, which are otherwise not industrially weaveable.
  • the coarse fabric thus obtained which may have any cloth, twill or jacquard-type weave, clearly has the same composition as the doubled yarn 3.
  • Such a coarse fabric is then subjected to a scouring dyeing step, during which it is dipped in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per kg of polyvinyl with a slightly acidic pH (about 4,5) at a temperature between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • the PVA yarn 2 is thus eliminated by dissolution or melting, leaving a final fabric ( fig. 3 ) consisting exclusively of blended yarns 1 and therefore having a final composition of 80%WS - 20%SE with a 66 dtex count, which is impossible to achieve industrially by traditional techniques.
  • the remaining yarn 1 has a torsion which is equivalent to the sum of the spinning torsion (1100 Z) and the doubling torsion (440 S), that is in the example considered equivalent to 660 Z.
  • the resulting fabric is therefore extremely soft, as well as having an extra fine count.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Claims (1)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes, aus extra feinen Tierfasern, die mit einer Industriemaschine nicht gewebt werden können, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Verfahren die folgende Schrittfolge aufweiset:
    a) Spinnen von gemischten Garnen (1), welche von 80 % tierischen Kaschmirfasern mit einer Dichte im Bereich zwischen 200 dtex und 50 dtex und von 20% Seidenfasern gebildet werden, wobei die gemischten Garne (1) eine Z-Drehung von 1100 Drehungen/Linearmeter haben;
    b) Doublieren der jeweiligen gemischten Garne (1) mit einem entsprechenden synthetischen Garn (2), hergestellt aus synthetischen PVA-Fasern, welche in einer flüssigen Lösung mit einem pH-Wert von etwa 4,5 bei einer Temperatur zwischen etwa 30°C und 100°C löslich sind, wobei die synthetischen Fasern (2) im wesentlichen dieselbe Dichte wie die gemischten Garne (1) und eine Z-Drehung von 1000 Drehungen/Linearmeter haben, und wobei das Doublieren mit einer S-Torsion von 440 Drehungen/Linearmeter erfolgt;
    c) Weben der doublierten Garne (3);
    d) Auflösen der synthetischen Fasergarne (2) mit Hilfe einer flüssigen Lösung, welche einen pH-Wert von etwa 4,5 hat, bei einer Temperatur zwischen 30°C und 100°C.
EP07123777A 2007-01-31 2007-12-20 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell gewebt werden können Active EP1953280B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000151A ITMI20070151A1 (it) 2007-01-31 2007-01-31 Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in fibre animali extrafini non tessibili industrialmente e tessuto cosi'ottenuto

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1953280A2 EP1953280A2 (de) 2008-08-06
EP1953280A3 EP1953280A3 (de) 2008-10-29
EP1953280B1 true EP1953280B1 (de) 2011-10-19

Family

ID=39428221

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP07123777A Active EP1953280B1 (de) 2007-01-31 2007-12-20 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell gewebt werden können

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1953280B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE529551T1 (de)
IT (1) ITMI20070151A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20070467A1 (it) * 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in
ITMI20080204A1 (it) * 2008-02-08 2008-05-09 G T I S P A Gruppo Tessile Ind Procedimento per realizzare un tessuto e tessuto cosi' realizzato
CN102704099A (zh) * 2012-06-06 2012-10-03 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 220Nm纯羊绒精纺纱及其制备方法
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB775387A (en) 1954-06-04 1957-05-22 Kanegafuchi Spinning Co Ltd Process for manufacturing spun yarn
GB1068662A (en) 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) * 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
IT1312400B1 (it) 1999-06-15 2002-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere
CN1450216A (zh) 2002-04-05 2003-10-22 内蒙古鹿王羊绒集团公司 一种羊绒纤维和天然蚕丝混纺的精纺高支纱的工艺方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITMI20070151A1 (it) 2008-08-01
EP1953280A3 (de) 2008-10-29
EP1953280A2 (de) 2008-08-06
ATE529551T1 (de) 2011-11-15

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