EP3162955A1 - Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe - Google Patents

Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3162955A1
EP3162955A1 EP16196449.9A EP16196449A EP3162955A1 EP 3162955 A1 EP3162955 A1 EP 3162955A1 EP 16196449 A EP16196449 A EP 16196449A EP 3162955 A1 EP3162955 A1 EP 3162955A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
fibres
thread
filament
dtex
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16196449.9A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Matteo Hary
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Filatura Di Trivero SpA
Original Assignee
Filatura Di Trivero SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Filatura Di Trivero SpA filed Critical Filatura Di Trivero SpA
Publication of EP3162955A1 publication Critical patent/EP3162955A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M7/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made of other substances with subsequent freeing of the treated goods from the treating medium, e.g. swelling, e.g. polyolefins
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/02—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using organic solvents
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/10—Processes in which the treating agent is dissolved or dispersed in organic solvents; Processes for the recovery of organic solvents thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • D10B2321/022—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polypropylene

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a natural fibre-based yarn, the relative manufacturing method and the fabric comprising said yarn.
  • cashmere is a high quality fibre for the manufacture of textile articles, in particular for items of clothing.
  • particularly fine yarns count 50-250 dtex
  • ultimate strength values lower than 80-100 g, which makes them unsuitable for industrial weaving.
  • Said method entails the need to carry out a sequence of separate work processes, in which firstly two spinning operations are performed on the cashmere fibres and on the hydrosoluble synthetic fibres, to produce two distinct twist yarns (primary twisting). Only subsequently are said two yarns coupled by means of a "doubling" operation, after which a further twisting (secondary twisting) is performed on them, generally in the opposite direction (S) to the primary twisting direction (Z) of the cashmere yarn.
  • Fabrics are also produced from a "hybrid" yarn comprising a plurality of natural fibres and hydrosoluble synthetic fibres.
  • natural fibres and hydrosoluble synthetic fibres are intimately juxtaposed, twisted and spun together to form a hybrid yarn.
  • the latter can therefore be used for weaving, after which, as has already been described, the hydrosoluble synthetic portion of the yarn can be eliminated by dissolution in an aqueous solution, preferably having a slightly acid pH.
  • the method results in a non-uniform distribution of the cashmere fibres in the yarn which is then woven. Said distribution is the consequence of the intrinsically random arrangement of the fibres in the "blend" from which the yarn is obtained.
  • the mechanical stress to which the different cashmere fibres are subject during the twisting is distributed among the fibres in a generally non-uniform manner, and this is then reflected in the characteristics of the finished fabric.
  • the yarns obtained do not allow an ideal colouring to be obtained since the aqueous solution at the temperature required for the dissolution causes many dyes to change colour, and the method is overall very expensive due to the high cost of the hydrosoluble yarn and the use of large quantities of water.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a yarn based on a natural fibre, and in particular based on cashmere or silk fibres or blends thereof, and a method for the relative manufacturing, which meet the above-mentioned need in a simple inexpensive manner.
  • the above-mentioned object is achieved by the present invention, since it concerns a yarn as defined in claim 1.
  • the present invention also concerns a method for manufacturing a fabric as defined in claim 9.
  • a yarn based on an extra-fine natural fibre that cannot be woven industrially preferably a noble animal fibre, for example cashmere or silk.
  • threads that form a yarn or thread having a count ranging from 50 dtex to 250 dtex, preferably from 85 dtex to 200 dtex, for which automatic weaving without a supporting element is mechanically impossible.
  • the count of the cashmere yarn can be 140 dtex (70000 Nm).
  • the natural animal fibres for example cashmere or silk, have ultimate strength values lower than 80-100 g.
  • threads 2 shown in figure 1 of extra-fine natural fibres which cannot be woven industrially are coupled with interwoven threads or filaments 1 formed by fibres comprising polyolefins by means of a coupling method similar to the one described in the patent EP1061162 .
  • the fibres comprising polyolefins consist mainly or over 50% of polyolefins.
  • the polyolefin fibres comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of polyethylene, polypropylene or blends thereof.
  • the polyolefin fibres comprise polypropylene.
  • the polyolefin fibres are made of polypropylene.
  • the polypropylene has a count ranging from 50 to 150 dtex, in particular a count of dtex 85/30 is preferred, i.e. consisting of 30 interlaced filaments.
  • the percentage by weight of the fibres comprising polyolefins relative to the total weight of the fabric 4 is between 10 and 70%, more preferably between 20 and 50%, for example 30%.
  • the coupling process comprises, preferably but not exclusively, two separate spinning operations, to form a first thread 2 of extra-fine natural fibres which cannot be woven industrially and an interwoven filament or thread 1 formed of a plurality of filaments comprising polyolefins, where the interwoven filament is preferably extruded and preferably formed of a number of filaments ranging from 10 to 50, for example 30.
  • the filament 1 comprising fibres comprising polyolefins and the thread 2 of natural fibres are coupled to form a yarn 3.
  • the filament or thread 1 comprising polyolefin fibres and the thread 2 of natural fibres are coupled by means of a "doubling" operation, after which they are given a further twisting (secondary twisting), generally in the opposite direction (S) with respect to the direction of primary twisting (Z) of the cashmere yarn.
  • secondary twisting generally in the opposite direction (S) with respect to the direction of primary twisting (Z) of the cashmere yarn.
  • the yarn 3 thus obtained can be subsequently used in a conventional weaving process to obtain a fabric 4.
  • the fabric 4 thus obtained can then undergo a dry cleaning operation.
  • the dry cleaning operation is performed with a solvent suitable for dissolving the polyolefin fibres.
  • the dry cleaning operation is performed with at least one substance selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, siloxanes, perchloroethylene also known as tetrachloroethylene, liquid carbon dioxide, siloxanes (other possible solvents?)
  • the dry cleaning operation is performed at a temperature higher than 100°, preferably between 100° and 150°C.
  • the method of the present invention entails reduced costs and less complexity in operating terms.
  • the method of the invention also avoids the risks connected with the use of hydrosoluble threads which are damaged by water and humidity and have therefore proved to be difficult to store and transport.
  • the spinning performance of the cashmere is significantly increased, resulting in a much lower number of breakages.
  • fibres comprising polyolefins and even more the use of fibres comprising polypropylene improves fixing of the colour and in particular does not damage the colour.
  • a yarn is formed by doubling a cashmere thread having count of 140 dtex with a filament having a count of 85/30 dtex formed by interweaving 30 filaments of polypropylene.
  • the cashmere thread and the polypropylene filament are coupled to each other by twisting them in the opposite direction to the direction in which they had been individually spun.
  • the yarn 3 thus obtained is woven into fabric 4 and then dry-cleaned with perchloroethylene at 120°C thus entirely dissolving the polypropylene filaments.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP16196449.9A 2015-10-28 2016-10-28 Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe Withdrawn EP3162955A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITUB2015A005104A ITUB20155104A1 (it) 2015-10-28 2015-10-28 Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3162955A1 true EP3162955A1 (de) 2017-05-03

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16196449.9A Withdrawn EP3162955A1 (de) 2015-10-28 2016-10-28 Verfahren zur hertsellung eines garns aus naturfaser und gewebe

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP3162955A1 (de)
IT (1) ITUB20155104A1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT201800005476A1 (it) * 2018-05-17 2019-11-17 Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1996010113A1 (en) * 1994-09-26 1996-04-04 Glidden John L Sr Wool purification
EP1061162A1 (de) 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1411160A1 (de) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-21 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines textilen Artikels aus purem Kashmir
KR20040053702A (ko) * 2002-12-17 2004-06-24 벤텍스 주식회사 2층 구조를 갖는 흡수속건성 섬유
EP1967622A2 (de) 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1996010113A1 (en) * 1994-09-26 1996-04-04 Glidden John L Sr Wool purification
EP1061162A1 (de) 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1411160A1 (de) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-21 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines textilen Artikels aus purem Kashmir
KR20040053702A (ko) * 2002-12-17 2004-06-24 벤텍스 주식회사 2층 구조를 갖는 흡수속건성 섬유
EP1967622A2 (de) 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes aus extrafeinen Tierfasern, die nicht industriell webbar sind, durch Verwendung kontinuierlicher und synthetischer wasserlöslicher Garne

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 200476, 2004 Derwent World Patents Index; AN 2004-772505, XP002758140 *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT201800005476A1 (it) * 2018-05-17 2019-11-17 Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato

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