EP1765273A1 - Verwendung von oxo-carbonsaeuren enthaltenden kombinationen zur desodorierung von haut und haaren - Google Patents

Verwendung von oxo-carbonsaeuren enthaltenden kombinationen zur desodorierung von haut und haaren

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Publication number
EP1765273A1
EP1765273A1 EP05769675A EP05769675A EP1765273A1 EP 1765273 A1 EP1765273 A1 EP 1765273A1 EP 05769675 A EP05769675 A EP 05769675A EP 05769675 A EP05769675 A EP 05769675A EP 1765273 A1 EP1765273 A1 EP 1765273A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
oxo
acid
carboxylic acid
polymers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05769675A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Thomas Kripp
Carolin Harpe
Walter Keller
Karl-Heinz Kischka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Deutschland GmbH
Original Assignee
Wella GmbH
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Wella GmbH filed Critical Wella GmbH
Publication of EP1765273A1 publication Critical patent/EP1765273A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of oxo-carboxylic acids in combination with metal ions, organic bases or substantives polymers for deodorization, i. for the control, suppression or elimination of odors of the hair or the skin as well as corresponding cosmetic agents and methods for hair treatment.
  • a shampoo formulation which contains the zinc salt of any organic acid and should exert an odor-reducing effect on colored and dauerge ⁇ wavy hair.
  • aqueous, clear gels which contain finely divided metal oxides, including zinc oxide, in order to bind odors in dermatological or hair cosmetic products.
  • an agent is known from the zinc salt of an organic acid which, apparently as an ingredient of a permanent wave agent, is said to remove the unpleasant odor, without influencing the stability of the corrugation.
  • JP 2003-137758 A relates to odor masking compositions for hair treatment compositions, including for permanent waving agents. Numerous essential oils suitable for odor control but also individual substances are listed. As a single substance, among other things, the free levulinic acid (CAS number 123-76-2) is called. In JP 60-197615 and JP 60-158105 further hair treatment agents are described, which may contain free levulinic acid.
  • Hydrogen or a monovalent organic radical and A is a divalent organic radical or a single bond, wherein the oxo-carboxylic acid may be unneutralized, partially neutralized or fully neutralized, and (b) at least one substance selected from metal ions, organic bases and, with respect to keratin material, noun polymers for controlling, suppressing or eliminating odors of the hair or the skin, in particular odors of sulfur-containing compounds and odors caused by permanent wave treatment of the hair.
  • Oxo-carboxylic acids are carboxylic acids which, apart from at least one carboxy group, also contain at least one carbonyl group as the functional group, that is to say represent aldehyde or ketocarboxylic acids.
  • Oxo-carboxylic acids are e.g. 2-oxo-carboxylic acids such as glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid or 2-oxoglutaric acid, 3-oxo-carboxylic acids such as e.g. Acetoacetic acid or 3-oxoglutaric acid, 4-oxo-carboxylic acid, e.g. Levulinic acid, etc.
  • Preferred oxo-carboxylic acids are 4-oxo-carboxylic acids, e.g. those of the general formula
  • RC ( O) -CH 2 -CH 2 -CO 2 H, where R is hydrogen or a monovalent organic radical, preferably a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group. Particularly preferred is levulinic acid (4-oxo-pentanoic acid).
  • the metal ions are preferably ions of Mau phenomenon ⁇ metals, in particular zinc ions.
  • the substantive polymers with respect to keratin material are preferably selected from film-forming polymers, hair-setting polymers and hair-care polymers.
  • Noun polymers are polyme- which have an adhesion to keratin material, in particular keratin fibers such as hair.
  • Suitable film-forming polymers are, in particular, the polymers listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th edition with the function "Film Formers”.
  • Suitable hair-fixing polymers are, in particular, the polymers listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th Edition with the function "Hair Fixatives”.
  • Suitable hair-care polymers are in particular the substances listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th edition with the function "Hair Conditioning Agents", as far as these are polymers. Examples of Nouns Polymers within the meaning of the invention are listed below.
  • Organic bases in the context of the invention are carbon compounds which have at least one water-basic group, in particular at least one primary, secondary or tertiary group.
  • Preferred are aminoalkanols which are e.g. From 2 to 10 carbon atoms and one or more hydroxy groups, e.g. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine.
  • AMP Aminomethylpropanol
  • Particularly preferred are the monoalkanolamines, especially amino methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
  • the metal salts of oxo-carboxylic acids in particular the zinc salt of levulinic acid, not incorporated as a finished raw material in the kosme ⁇ tables product, but only generated in situ.
  • these may be the amounts of metal salts, metal oxides, metal hydroxides or free metals desired in the product be submitted and are mixed with the example stoichiometrically calculated amount of oxo-carboxylic acid.
  • the oxo-carboxylic acid can also be initially charged and mixed with the desired amount of metal salts, metal oxides, metal hydroxides or free metal.
  • metallic zinc and its suitable compounds in particular zinc oxide, zinc hydroxide, zinc carbonate, basic zinc carbonate, zincates, etc., are preferred.
  • the odor-reducing effect is significantly greater with leave-on products than with rinse-off products.
  • 1 Z 10 to 1 Z 100O of that use concentration as used in rinse-off products is sufficient to significantly suppress the permeable odor or completely suppress it, for example 0.001 to 1% by weight. for leave-on products and 0.01 to 10% by weight for rinse products.
  • the metal salts of levulinic acid are able to sustainably improve the odor of permanently waved hair when they are applied directly or even days after a permanent wave treatment.
  • the zinc salt of levulinic acid synergistically exceeds the sum of the individual effects of levulinic acid on the one hand and other zinc compounds on the other.
  • the invention also cosmetic products, especially hair and skin treatment compositions containing a combination of
  • the pH 2.0 to 10.0, • pre preferably between 3.0 and 8.0 are present.
  • ammonium ions should also be present above pH 7.0 in order to keep the zinc ions in solution, since otherwise they could precipitate out as hydroxide.
  • oxo-carboxylates to be used according to the invention for odor reduction can be used alone, but of course also in Combination with other odor reducing substances such as cyclodextrins, ursolic acid etc. are used.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one further hair- or skin-cosmetically active substance or additive.
  • the active ingredients and additives are preferably present in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10 or from 0.1 to 5% by weight, depending on the nature and intended use.
  • the active substances and additives may be selected from hair-care substances, hair-setting substances, silicone compounds, light stabilizers, oils, waxes, viscosity-modifying substances, preservatives, pigments, substantive hair dyes, particulate substances, surfactants, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, oxidation hair dye precursors , skin-care substances, moisturizing substances and other deodorizing agents.
  • the agent according to the invention can i.a. in one of the following product forms:
  • hair conditioners hair rinses, hair conditioners, hair care foams, hair lotions, pomades, agents for the temporary shaping and / or stabilization of the hairstyle (styling agents), eg hair sprays, hair lacquers, setting lotions, setting foams, hairstyling gels, hairstyling waxes, hairstyle creams etc., permanent, semipermanent or temporary hair dyes, eg oxidative hair dyes or non-oxdidative hair toners, hair bleaches, permanent hair styling agents, eg permanent waving or hair relaxers, perfumes, deodorant sticks, deodorant sprays, deodorants Scooters, deodorant wipes, deodorant creams, skin creams, skin lotions, skin milk, shower baths, bath salts, washing lotions or simple aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions.
  • hairstyle eg hair sprays, hair lacquers, setting lotions, setting foams, hairstyling gels, hairstyling
  • agent according to the invention can be present
  • a hair or skin cleanser with 0.01 to 40 wt.% Of at least one anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic rule washing surfactant and 50 to 90 wt.% Water; as hair spray, either in combination with a propellant (aerosol spray) or in combination with a mechanical spraying device (pump spray);
  • a hair foam which contains at least one foam-forming substance and is present in combination with a device for foaming;
  • hair-setting agent containing at least one hair-setting polymer
  • hair dye containing at least one hair dye or at least one hair dye precursor; - as hair tonic with a content of ethanol and / or isopropanol of at least 10 wt.%;
  • the composition according to the invention contains as a hair-care or hair-setting additive or as a substantive polymer at least one polymer with anionic or anionizable groups in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 20 wt.% Or from 0.05 to 10 wt preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • anionizable groups are meant acid groups such as carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid groups, which can be deprotonated by means of customary bases such as organic amines or alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides.
  • the polymers may be partially or completely neutralized with a basic neutralizing agent.
  • bases are in particular aminoalkanols such as, for example, aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine, but also ammonia, NaOH, KOH and the like.
  • the polymer can be a homopolymer or copolymer with monomeric units containing acid groups on a natural or synthetic basis, which is optionally copolymerized with comonomers which do not contain any acid groups.
  • Suitable acid groups are sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic acid groups, of which the garboxylic acid groups are preferred.
  • Suitable acid group-containing monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters, in particular the mono-C 1 -C 7 -alkyl esters of maleic acid and also aldehydocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids.
  • substituted comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate Monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers having acid groups are in particular non-crosslinked or crosslinked with polyfunctional agents homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid and copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides.
  • a suitable natural polymer is, for example, shellac.
  • Preferred polymers with acid groups are:
  • Terpolymers of acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and N-alkylacrylamide (INCI name: acrylates / acrylamide copolymer), in particular terpolymers of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide; crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers (INCI name: VA / crotonates copolymer); Copolymers of one or more C 1 -C 5 -alkyl acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 4 -alkyl acrylates and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (INCI name: acrylates copolymer), eg terpolymers of tert.
  • the agent according to the invention contains as hair care or hair setting additive or as Substantive polymer at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric polymer in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 20 wt.% or from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%.
  • Zwitterionic polymers have at the same time at least one anionic and at least one cationic charge.
  • Amphoteric polymers have at least one acidic group (eg carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid group) and at least one basic group (eg amino group). Acid groups can be deprotonated by means of customary bases such as, for example, organic amines or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • Preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers are: copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and two or more monomers from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally their esters, in particular copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI name : Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer); Copolymers formed from at least one first type of monomer having quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer having acidic groups; Copolymers of fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and optionally acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, in particular copolymers of lauryl acrylate, stearyl
  • the composition according to the invention contains at least one cationic polymer as a hair-care or hair-setting additive or as a substantive polymer, i. a polymer having cationic or cationizable groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 20 wt.% or from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .%.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are preferably hair-setting or hair-conditioning polymers.
  • Suitable polymers of component (B) preferably contain quaternary amine groups.
  • the cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers containing cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as Cl to Cl alkyl groups, more preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, in particular C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers with quaternary amine groups are e.g. the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Preferred cationic polymers on a synthetic basis Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride); Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; Quaternary ammonium polymers formed by the reaction of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, in particular vinylpyrrolidone /
  • Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer e.g.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are, in particular, cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Are suitable also chitosan and chitosan derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharides have, for example, the general formula
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene, - R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number the C atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably at most 20;
  • X is a common counter anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride.
  • Cationic celluloses are, for example, those with the INCI names Polyquaternium-10 or Polyquaternium-24.
  • a suitable cationic guar derivative has, for example, the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
  • Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the molecular weight can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol, for example from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.
  • a preferred chitosan salt is Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, eg Kytamer ® PC with a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and deacetylation of 70 to 85%.
  • Chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan into consideration.
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, can be used as the neutralizing agent.
  • Natural-based preferred cationic polymers cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethyl cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose and trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide; Chitosan and its salts; Hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts, - alkyl hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; N-Hydroxyalkylchitosanalkylether.
  • the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer.
  • Natural polymers are also understood as meaning chemically modified polymers of natural origin.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic shear solution are able to deposit on the hair a polymer film.
  • Suitable synthetic, nonionic, film-forming, hair-setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 to C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups , Suitable are e.g.
  • Homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide are e.g. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; Polyvinyl alcohols and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are e.g. Cellulose derivatives, e.g. Hydroxyalkylcellulose.
  • Preferred nonionic polymers are:
  • the composition according to the invention contains, as hair-care additive, at least one silicone compound in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 15% by weight. particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the silicone compounds include volatile and non-volatile silicones and soluble and insoluble silicones in the composition. In one embodiment, it is high molecular weight silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 2,000,000 cSt at 25 ° C, preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 or 100,000 to 1,500,000.
  • the silicone compounds include polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxanes, especially with methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl groups.
  • silicone compounds Preference is given to polydimethylsiloxanes, polydiethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. Shiny, arylated silicones with a refractive index of at least 1.46, or at least 1.52, are also preferred.
  • the silicone compounds comprise the substances with the INCI names Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Ditnethicone Copolyol, Phenyl
  • Preferred silicones are: cyclic dimethylsiloxanes, linear polydimethylsiloxanes, block polymers of polydimethylsiloxane and polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide, polydimethylsiloxanes having terminal or pendant polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide radicals, hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl-substituted polydimethylsiloxanes, silicone emulsions, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes , Silicone gums, amino-substituted silicones and silicones substituted with quaternary ammonium groups.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a light stabilizer in an amount of preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight or from 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight.
  • the light stabilizers comprise in particular all light stabilizers mentioned in EP 1 084 696. Preference is given to: 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, methyl methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzenephenone-5-sulfonic acid and polyethoxylated p-aminobenzoates.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one hydrophobic oil or wax in an amount of preferably from 0.01 to 20, more preferably from 0.05 to 10, most preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the liquid, hydrophobic oils have a melting pointIch ⁇ of less than or equal to 25 0 C and a boiling point of preferred wise over 250 0 C, in particular above 300 0 C.
  • any known to those skilled in oil are set. In question are vegetable or animal oils, mineral oils (Paraffinum liquidum), silicone oils or mixtures thereof. Suitable are hydrocarbon oils, eg.
  • Paraffin or isoparaffin oils, squalane, oils of fatty acids and polyols, especially triglycerides are e.g. Sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soybean oil.
  • any wax known in the art can be used. These include animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petrolatum, vaseline, ozokerite, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes, for example polyols. butene, beeswax, wool wax and its derivatives such as wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters and fatty acid glycerides with a solidification point of above 40 0 C, Polyethylenwach.se and silicone waxes.
  • animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic waxes microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petrolatum, vaseline, ozokerite, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes, for example polyols. butene, beeswax
  • the waxes or waxy materials have a Cleararrungs ⁇ point above 4O 0 C, preferably above 55 0 C.
  • the Nadel ⁇ penetration number (0.1 mm, 100 g, 5 s, 25 ° C; according to DIN 51 579) preferably ranges from 2 to 70, especially from 3 to 40.
  • the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10, very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5,% by weight of at least one hair conditioning additive, e.g. selected from
  • panthenol panthenyl
  • sorbitol Protein hydrolysates
  • Plant extracts Plant extracts.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one viscosity-modifying substance in an amount of preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight or 0.05 to 10% by weight or particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the viscosity-modifying substance is preferably a thickening polymer selected from copolymers of at least one first type of monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and at least one second type of monomer selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; crosslinked polyacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers of at least one first type of monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and at least one second type of monomer selected from esters of Acrylic acid with Cl0 to C30 alcohols; Copolymers of at least one first type of monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and at least one second type of monomer selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol, copolymers of at least one first type of monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid
  • the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10, very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5,% by weight of at least one Surfactant.
  • the surfactant may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or zwitterionic.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are e.g. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides or alkylphenols, in particular addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto C 8 to C 22 fatty alcohols, to C 12 to C 22 fatty acids or to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C Atoms in the alkyl group
  • Fatty acid sugar esters especially esters of sucrose and one or two C8 to C22 fatty acids, INCI: sucrose cocoate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate ester of sorbitan and one, two or three C8 to C22 fatty acids and a degree of ethoxylation of 4 to 20 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, in particular of one, two or more C8 to C22 fatty acids and polyglycerol having preferably 2 to 20 glyceryl units - alkyl glucosides, alkyl oligoglucosides and alkyl polyglucosides with C8 to C22 alkyl groups, eg Decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside,
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, salts and esters of carboxylic acids, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfonic acid and their salts (eg, sulfonated sulfonic acid). succinates or fatty acid isethionates), phosphoric acid esters and their salts, acylamino acids and their salts.
  • a detailed description of these anionic surfactants can be found in the publication "FIEDLER - Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe", Volume 1, fifth edition (2002), pages 97 to 102, to which reference is hereby expressly made.
  • Preferred surfactants are mono-, di- and / or triesters of phosphoric acid with addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C 8 to C 22 fatty alcohols.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants are e.g. Derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds of the formula
  • Rl represents a straight or branched chain alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide units and 0 to 1 glycerol unit
  • Y is an N-, P- or S-containing group
  • - R 2 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 C atoms
  • - X is 1, if Y is a sulfur atom and X is 2, if Y is a Nitrogen atom or a phosphorus atom
  • R3 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group having 1 to 4 C atoms and Z M represents a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate or phosphate group.
  • amphoteric surfactants such as betaines are also suitable.
  • betaines include C8 to C18 alkyl betaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine and lauryl bis (2-hydroxypropyl) alphacarboxyethyl betaine, C8 to C18 sulfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C 8 -C 18 -alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the
  • Suitable cationic surfactants contain amino groups or quaternized hydrophilic ammonium groups which carry a positive charge in solution and can be represented by the general formula N 1 + 1 R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 X 1'1 , where R 1 to R 4 are independently aliphatic groups , aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylatnido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups having 1 to 22 C atoms, where at least one residue has at least 6, preferably at least 8 C atoms and X "represents an anion, for example a halogen , Acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride
  • the aliphatic groups may also contain cross-links or other groups such as further amino groups in addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, eg cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, the dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates and compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.
  • C8-22-alkyldimethylbenzylammonium compounds C8-22-alkyltrimethylammonium compounds, in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, C8-22-alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium compounds, di (C8-22-alkyl) -dimethylammonium compounds, C8-22-alkylpyridinium salts, C8- 22- Alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, C8-22-alkylmethylamine oxides, C8-22-alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.
  • the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 5, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1,% by weight of at least one preservative.
  • Suitable preservatives are the substances listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th edition with the function "Preservatives", e.g. Phenoxyethanol, benzylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, DMDM hydantoin.
  • a particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair care product.
  • Hair care products are, for example, conditioners, treatments, hair treatments, rinses or the like.
  • the hair care agent contains at least one hair-care active substance selected from the abovementioned silicone compounds, cationic or amine-substituted surfactants and cationic surfactants. see or amine-substituted polymers.
  • the hair-care active ingredient can be used in amounts between 0.01 and 10.0% by weight, in particular between 0.01 and 5.0% by weight, based on the finished product.
  • the hair care composition according to the invention can either remain in the hair after application to the dry, moist or wet hair or it can be rinsed out again after a suitable exposure time.
  • the exposure times depend on the type of hair. As a general guideline, exposure times of between 0.5 and 30 minutes, in particular 0.5 and 10 minutes, preferably between 1 and 5 minutes, can be assumed.
  • cationic or amine-substituted surfactants are those of the formula R 1 -NH- (CH 2 ) n -NR 2 R 3 or the formula R 1 -NH- (CH 2 ) n N + R 2 R 3 R 4 X " where R 1 is an acyl or a Is alkyl radical having 8 to 24 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, where the acyl and / or the alkyl radical may contain one or more OH groups, R 2, R 3 and R 4 independently of one another are hydrogen, Alkyl or alkoxy alkyl radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated and substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, X "is an anion, in particular a halide ion or a Verbin ⁇ tion of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or uns
  • the hair-care active ingredient is preferably an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine of the abovementioned formulas, in which R 1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 24 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group. Preference is also given to those amines and / or quaternized amines in which at least one of the radicals R 2, R 3 and R 4 is a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 C atoms , Hydroxyethyl or H may have.
  • Suitable amines or amidamines which may optionally be quaternized, are in particular those having the INCI names ricinoleamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethyl lactate, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium
  • Quaternium-33, undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate Quaternium-33, undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment.
  • These may be colored pigments, which are the product mass or the
  • the coloring or gloss effects on the hair are preferably temporary, ie they last until the next hair wash and can be removed by washing the hair with conventional shampoos.
  • the pigments are in the Product mass in undissolved form before and can be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 25 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 5 to 15 wt.%.
  • the preferred particle size is 1 to 200 .mu.m, in particular 3 to 150 .mu.m, particularly preferably 10 to 100 .mu.m.
  • the pigments are practically insoluble colorants in the application medium and may be inorganic or organic. Also inorganic-organic mixed pigments are possible. Preference is given to inorganic pigments.
  • the advantage of anorga ⁇ African pigments is their excellent light, weather and temperature resistance.
  • the inorganic pigments may be of natural origin, for example made of chalk, ocher, umber, green soil, terraced terraza or graphite.
  • the pigments may be white pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, luster pigments, metallic effect pigments, pearlescent pigments, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, preferably at least a pigment is a colored, non-white pigment.
  • Suitable are metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdate and the metals themselves (bronze pigments). Titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29 ), Chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510), Carmine (Cochineal).
  • pearlescent and color pigments based on mica or mica which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and optionally other coloring substances, such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarines, carmines, etc., and the color can be varied by varying the color Layer thickness can be determined.
  • a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride
  • other coloring substances such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarines, carmines, etc.
  • Such pigments are marketed under the trade names Rona ®, Colorona® ®, ® and Dichrona® Timiron ® from Merck, Germany.
  • Organic pigments include, for example, the natural pigments sepia, cambogia, bone charcoal, Kasseler brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments.
  • Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.
  • the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 10, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5,% by weight of at least one further particulate substance other than component (A).
  • Suitable substances are, for example, substances which are solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and in the form of particles. Suitable examples are silica, silicates, aluminates, clays, mica, salts, in particular inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, for example titanium dioxide, minerals and polymer particles.
  • the particles are present in the composition in undissolved, preferably stably dispersed form and, after application to the hair and evaporation of the solvent, can deposit on the hair in solid form.
  • a stable dispersion can be achieved by the Composition is provided with a yield point that is large enough to prevent a decrease in the solid particles.
  • a sufficient flow limit can be adjusted by using suitable gelling agents in an appropriate amount.
  • Preferred particulate matter is silica
  • Metal salts are e.g. Alkali or alkaline earth halides such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride; Alkali or alkaline earth sulfates such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
  • a further embodiment relates to a kit for permanently deforming the hair, comprising a first composition containing one of the abovementioned combinations of oxocarboxylic acid and metal ions or substantive polymers to be used according to the invention and at least one second composition selected from Compositions containing at least one reducing agent (perming agent), in particular a keratin-reducing mercapto compound, in an amount of preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight and compositions containing at least one oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide (fixation).
  • a preferred kit contains, in addition to the first composition, both a reducing agent-containing permanent waving composition and an oxidizing agent-containing fixing composition.
  • the required alkalinity is in this case adjusted by the addition of ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and alkali carbonates or bicarbonates.
  • the permanent hair-shaping agent of the present invention may also contain a mixture of the above-mentioned keratin-reducing compounds. After a sufficient time for the permanent deformation of the hair exposure time, the hair is rinsed with water and then post-treated oxidatively (fixed). For the oxidative after-treatment, a fixing agent of the present invention containing at least one oxidizing agent and one oxo-carboxylic acid metal salt or any fixing agent heretofore used for such a treatment can be used.
  • oxidizing agents usable in such a fixing agent are sodium and potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and hydrogen peroxide.
  • concentration of the oxidizing agent can be from about 0.5 to 10% by weight.
  • Both the permanent waving agent and the fixing agent according to the invention can be present in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion and in a thickened form on an aqueous basis, in particular as a cream, gel or paste. It is also possible to fill this agent under pressure in aerosol cans and remove it as a foam.
  • Another embodiment relates to a hair dye. It can be present both in the form of an oxidative and non-oxidative coloring agent on the basis of the per se known oxidative and / or direct-acting dyes.
  • the total amount of the oxidation dye precursors contained in the agent according to the invention is preferably about 0.01 to 12% by weight, in particular about 0.2 to 6% by weight.
  • suitable oxidation dye precursors there may be mentioned, for example, the following developing agents and couplers and compounds coupling with themselves.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes in the composition according to the invention is about 0.01 to 7% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to 4% by weight.
  • Suitable substantive dyes are e.g. Triphenylmethane dyes, aromatic nitro dyes, azo dyes, quinone dyes, cationic or anionic dyes and are known in the art per se.
  • the oxidizing agent composition used can be a composition according to the invention which contains at least one oxidizing agent and oxo-carboxylic acid metal salts or any composition previously used for such a treatment.
  • oxidizing agent for the development The coloration is mainly hydrogen peroxide or its addition compounds of urea, melamine or sodium borate in the form of a 1 to 12%, preferably a 1.5 to 6% aqueous solution into consideration.
  • the mixing ratio of colorant to oxidant is dependent on the concentration of the oxidizing agent and is generally about 5: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 1: 1, wherein the content of oxidizing agent in the ready Zuberei ⁇ device preferably about 0.5 to 8 wt.%, In particular 1 to 4 wt.% Is.
  • composition according to the invention may moreover comprise further auxiliary components customary for hair treatment compositions, e.g. Perfume oils; Opacifiers such as e.g. Ethylene glycol distearate, styrene / PVP copolymers or polystyrenes; Moisturizing agent; Luster-imparting agents; threatenanfärbestoffe; Antioxidants, in amounts of preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Wherein the total amount preferably does not exceed 10 wt.%.
  • auxiliary components customary for hair treatment compositions e.g. Perfume oils
  • Opacifiers such as e.g. Ethylene glycol distearate, styrene / PVP copolymers or polystyrenes
  • Moisturizing agent e.g. Ethylene glycol distearate, styrene / PVP copolymers or polystyrenes
  • Moisturizing agent e.
  • the agent of the invention may be in any of
  • Hair and skin treatment agent suitable formulation for example in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a dispersion, as a cream or as a gel.
  • the agent can also be sprayed or foamed in admixture with a propellant gas or by means of a mechanically operated spraying device.
  • the agent according to the invention is preferably formulated in an aqueous, an alcoholic or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10% by weight of water.
  • alcohols in particular the customarily used for cosmetic purposes lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol and Isopropanol be included.
  • the agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 10.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in the form of a viscous lotion or in the form of a spray gel, which is sprayed with a mechanical device, and contains at least one of the abovementioned thickening polymers in an amount of preferably 0, 05 to 10, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight and has a viscosity of at least 250 mPa s (measured with a Bohlin Rheometer CS, measuring body C25 at 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 50 s -1 ) Viscosity of the gel is preferably from 500 to 50,000 mPa s, more preferably from 1,000 to 15,000 tnPa s at 25 0 C.
  • the agent according to the invention lies in
  • Form of an O / W emulsion, a W / O emulsion or a microemulsion and contains at least one of the abovementioned oils or waxes emulsified in water and at least one of the above-mentioned surfactants.
  • the agent of the invention is in the form of a spray product, either in combination with a mechanical pump spray device or in combination with at least one propellant selected from propane, butane, dimethyl ether and fluorinated hydrocarbons.
  • the spray products may be free of metal ions and contain a combination of oxo-carboxylic acid or its non-metal-derived salts with at least one substantive polymer.
  • An aerosol spray additionally preferably contains 15 to 85% by weight, particularly preferably 25 to 75% by weight, of a propellant and is filled in a pressure vessel.
  • Suitable blowing agents are, for example, lower alkanes, for example n-butane, isobutane and propane, or else mixtures thereof, and also dimethyl ether or fluorocarbons such as F 152a (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane) and also the propellants in question gaseous propellant, such as N 2 , N 2 O and CO 2 and mixtures of the aforementioned blowing agents suitable.
  • lower alkanes for example n-butane, isobutane and propane, or else mixtures thereof, and also dimethyl ether or fluorocarbons such as F 152a (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane)
  • propellants in question gaseous propellant such as N 2 , N 2 O and CO 2 and mixtures of the aforementioned blowing agents suitable.
  • a non-aerosol hair spray is sprayed using a suitable mechanically operated spray device.
  • mechanical spraying devices are meant those devices which enable the spraying of a composition without the use of a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spraying device can, for example, a spray pump or provided with a spray valve elastic container in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is filled under pressure, wherein the elastic container ter expands and from which the agent is discharged as a result of the contraction of the elastic container when the spray valve is opened, can be used.
  • the composition according to the invention is present in the form of a foamable product (mousse) in combination with a device for foaming, contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose, e.g. at least one foam-forming surfactant or at least one foam-forming polymer.
  • foaming devices are to be understood as meaning devices which enable the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent.
  • a suitable mechanical foaming device for example, a commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head can be used.
  • the product is either in combination with a mechanical PumpJeumvorraum (pump foam) or in combination with at least one blowing agent (aerosol foam) in an amount of preferably 1 to 20, in particular from 2 to 10 wt.%, Before.
  • Propellants are e.g. selected from propane, butane, dimethyl ether and fluorinated hydrocarbons.
  • the agent is foamed immediately before use and incorporated as a foam in the hair and can then be rinsed or left without rinsing in the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair wax, ie it has a waxy consistency and contains at least one of the above-mentioned waxes in an amount of preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight and optionally other water-insoluble substances.
  • the waxy consistency net is preferably characterized gekennzeich ⁇ , that the needle penetration number (unit mm 0,1, test weight 100 g, test duration 5 s, test temperature 25 ° C; according to DIN '51579) greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 20 and that the solidification point of the product is preferably greater than or equal to 30 0 C and less than or equal to 70 0 C, more preferably in the range of 40 to 55 ° C.
  • Suitable waxes and water-insoluble substances are, in particular, emulsifiers with an HLB value below 7, silicone oils, silicone waxes, waxes (eg wax alcohols, wax acids, wax esters, and in particular natural waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, etc.), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters or hydrophilic waxes such as high molecular weight polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 800 to 20,000, preferably from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair lotion, it is present as a substantially non-viscous or slightly viscous, flowable solution, dispersion or emulsion containing at least 10% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, of a cosmetically acceptable alcohol in front.
  • a cosmetically acceptable alcohol in front.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to use the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 C atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, e.g. Ethanol and isopropanol are used.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair cream, it is preferably present as an emulsion and contains either additional viscosity-providing ingredients in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight or the required viscosity and creamy consistency is built up by micelle formation with the help of suitable emulsifiers, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, waxes, etc. in the usual way.
  • the hair-treatment composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair-cleansing composition, it additionally contains at least one washing-active surfactant, preferably 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular 5 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant and 50 to 90% by weight of water.
  • the hair-cleaning composition according to the invention has a pH of preferably from 3 to 8, in particular from 4 to 7. Suitable surfactants are, for example, those mentioned above.
  • Preferred surfactants for a hair cleanser according to the invention are selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of C 1 -C 18 -alkyl sulfates, C 1 -C 18 -alkyl sulfonates, C 1 -C 18 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, C 1 -C 18-xylenesulfonates and with 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units ethoxylated C 1 - to C 18 -alkyl ether sulfates; the ethoxylated sulfosuccinic monoesters of the general formula R ⁇ (OCH 2 CH 2 ) m -O 2 C-CH 2 CH (SO 3 M) -CO 2 M, where R 1 is a C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, M is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation and m is an integer from 1 to 10; the alkyl ether carboxylates of the formula R 2 (
  • the invention also provides a method for hair treatment, wherein
  • the hair is subjected using a sulfur-containing reducing agent of a permanently changing the hair shape treatment
  • the hair is preferably treated with an aftertreatment agent which contains a combination of (a) levulinic acid or its neutralized form and (b) zinc ions and wherein the aftertreatment agent is rinsed out (rinse product) or without Rinsing on the hair remains (leave-on product).
  • an aftertreatment agent which contains a combination of (a) levulinic acid or its neutralized form and (b) zinc ions and wherein the aftertreatment agent is rinsed out (rinse product) or without Rinsing on the hair remains (leave-on product).
  • the relevant zinc salts are prepared by dissolving zinc oxide (ZnO) in the relevant acid.
  • ZnO zinc oxide
  • 0.1 mol of ZnO (8.1 g) is added as a 10% aqueous suspension with 0.2 mol of a monohydric acid and stirred until everything has dissolved.
  • the pH is then about 7.
  • Anschlie ⁇ JOd any undissolved zinc oxide residues are filtered off and the filtrate is concentrated to dryness. This remaining mass is then used directly.
  • their respective molarities are correspondingly halved or divided in half.
  • test substances are tested on freshly permed hair.
  • the hair tresses are cut to 2.5 cm pieces, bleached for 30 minutes and washed with perfume-free shampoo. To get the streaks completely odorless, they are then each three times in a mixture of isopropanol 25% / ethanol 25% / water 50% immersed. Then the hair comes 24 hours in a climate chamber (20 0 C at 85% humidity), and then cut to the weight 2 g. Finally, a smell test takes place.
  • Each 10 strands per Nach ⁇ to be tested are wound onto winder (diameter 13 mm) and placed overnight in the air space (20 0 C at 85% humidity) treating agent. The next morning these hair strands are permed.
  • zinc salts and the corresponding zinc-free acids were incorporated alone into customary cosmetic product bases at in each case two different pH values.
  • interest rate tri-zinc di-citrate
  • the oxo-carboxylic acids were used both as sodium salts and in the form of their respective zinc salts.
  • the pH values were consequently adjusted in each case by means of citric acid or NaOH.
  • Each character represents a test strand.
  • Test substance 1st day 21 1st day 21 2nd day 3) 2nd day 31 3rd day 2 '3rd day' 4th day 31 4th leg 3)
  • Blank value 11 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
  • Zinc levulinate 0 2 2 0 5 0
  • Example 2 Hair shampoo for intensive protection against permanent wave odor
  • Example 5 Permanent wave fixing solution with odor suppression
  • Zinc oxide 0.1 0.3 0.5
  • Example 8 Foam conditioner for protection against sulfur odor

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EP05769675A 2004-07-09 2005-07-11 Verwendung von oxo-carbonsaeuren enthaltenden kombinationen zur desodorierung von haut und haaren Withdrawn EP1765273A1 (de)

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DE102004033206A DE102004033206A1 (de) 2004-07-09 2004-07-09 Verwendung von Oxo-carbonsäuren enthaltenden Kombinationen zur Desodorierung
PCT/EP2005/007485 WO2006005561A1 (de) 2004-07-09 2005-07-11 Verwendung von oxo-carbonsäuren enthaltenden kombinationen zur desodorierung von haut und haaren

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