EP1709230B1 - Machine a coudre automatique polyvalente a aiguilles multiples, et procede de couture associe(en) automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, and relative sewing method - Google Patents

Machine a coudre automatique polyvalente a aiguilles multiples, et procede de couture associe(en) automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, and relative sewing method Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1709230B1
EP1709230B1 EP05784746A EP05784746A EP1709230B1 EP 1709230 B1 EP1709230 B1 EP 1709230B1 EP 05784746 A EP05784746 A EP 05784746A EP 05784746 A EP05784746 A EP 05784746A EP 1709230 B1 EP1709230 B1 EP 1709230B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
sewing
supporting bar
needle
auxiliary supporting
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EP05784746A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1709230A1 (fr
Inventor
Giannino Landoni
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Meca SpA
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Meca SpA
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C—EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C7/00—Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines
    • D05C7/08—Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines for attaching cords, tapes, bands, or the like
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B11/00—Machines for sewing quilts or mattresses
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns an automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, able to perform multiple stitches with an unlimited number of patterns, embroideries and ornamental designs, or able to apply decorative strips, paillettes, ribbons and trimmings, or able to apply crimped tapes onto simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics, fed continuously from rolls, or to crimp simple fabrics or fabrics with a lining below, fed continuously from rolls, or again to apply tapes or ribbons transverse to the direction of feed of the fabric.
  • the sewing machine according to the present invention is advantageously but not exclusively an automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing-quilting-embroidering machine.
  • the invention also concerns a sewing method that allows to make different workings for each of which, until now, it would have been necessary to have different specific sewing machines available.
  • the invention is preferentially, though not exclusively, applied on multi-needle quilting machines, both of the type which make knotted point and chain point stitches.
  • WO 0070137 describes a multi-needle sewing machine according to the preamble of claim 1 and a method according to the preamble of claim 17.
  • One purpose of the present invention is to achieve a single automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, which allows to perform indifferently, by means of rapid and simple reconfiguring operations, one or the other of a plurality of different and differentiated functions in the type of stitching, of accessory applied, for example ribbons, trimmings, paillettes, tapes, longitudinally or transversely to the fabric, crimping operations, or other, according to the clients' requests.
  • Another purpose of the present invention is to achieve a sewing machine that will allow continuous working of simple, multi-layer and padded fabrics, obtaining any ornamental pattern whatsoever of the stitches by means of an electronic control.
  • the sewing machine comprises at least a needle-bearing bar on which a plurality of needles are mounted, each one fed with its own thread called needle thread.
  • the needle-bearing bar is able to be moved alternately with an ascending-descending movement, to take every needle to cooperate with a mating lower sewing element, for example consisting of a shuttle, a rotary crochet or a mobile hook, also equipped with alternating movement mating with the movement of the needle-bearing bar.
  • the cooperation between the needles and the lower sewing elements determines the sewing of stitches, both knotted point and double chain point stitches, on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics, fed continuously from rolls and interposed between said sewing members.
  • the sewing machine also comprises at least an auxiliary supporting bar cooperating with the needle-bearing bar, and able to be moved alternately in an ascending-descending direction, with a movement coordinated to that of the needle-bearing bar.
  • a series of different accessory elements are able to be selectively associated with the auxiliary supporting bar, by means of standardized attachment means, so as to perform selectively one or the other of at least the following operations:
  • parts of said accessory elements comprise movement means, also of a standardized type, able to allow on each occasion the specific achievement of said operations.
  • the standardized attachment means comprise a plurality of housings for said accessory elements, disposed contiguous so as to cover the upper surface of the auxiliary supporting bar, each of which has a length that substantially corresponds to the distance between two contiguous needles; each accessory element has at least a part, of a size correlating to that of each of said housings, so as to be able to be selectively positioned and clamped inside them so that at least a needle can cooperate therewith during the working step.
  • the standardized attachment means comprise a linear guide attached on the auxiliary supporting bar and able to allow the positioning, by means of transverse sliding, and the subsequent attachment in the operating position of the accessory element with respect to the latter.
  • auxiliary supporting bar there are sliding means for a toothed belt, advantageously having a development adequate to cover the entire lateral perimeter of the auxiliary supporting bar.
  • auxiliary supporting bar there are command, guide and return means for said toothed belt.
  • the command means comprise at least a pulley connected to a command motor.
  • the command motor is managed by a programmable control unit in order to impart to the toothed belt movements with a cadence, amplitude and direction of movement that vary according to the type of operation to be performed.
  • the accessory elements are selectively chosen from standard static feet or feet of a robotized type according to the work to be done.
  • the feet can be of different types according to the application or specific operation to be made on the fabric.
  • a plurality of standard feet are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar by means of said standardized attachment means; apart from the standardized part to connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the standard feet have a shaped part equipped with suitable holes through which the corresponding needles pass, mounted on the respective needle-bearing bar.
  • the auxiliary supporting bar behaves like a simple fabric-pressing plate and the toothed belt and its command motor remain inactive.
  • a plurality of robotized feet for example of the ECORDING type, are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar, again by means of said standardized attachment means; apart from the standardized part to connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the robotized feet have a shaped part protruding laterally from the auxiliary supporting bar itself, in which an idle toothed pulley rotating on bearings is mounted.
  • Each toothed pulley comprises a cylindrical insert, provided with an axial hole for the needle, and with other holes and/or hollows with different diameters and widths, disposed eccentric with respect to the axial hole, and through which the strips or tapes to be applied pass.
  • the RIRI type robotized feet are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar by means of said standardized attachment means, in the positions corresponding to the needles intended to be used.
  • the RIRI type robotized feet are equipped with toothed pulleys having a central hole through which the sewing needle passes, and allow to make a tape advance intermittently which is sewn by the needle, with adjustable crimping.
  • Each of the pulleys is also equipped with a cam that drives a sliding pad made of anti-friction material, on which is attached, with a slight inclination, a movable blade, which slides on a fixed blade underneath, attached rigidly to the robotized foot of the auxiliary supporting bar.
  • the command motor imparts to the toothed belt alternate movements that are repeated by the pulley of the RIRI type robotized foot, and transformed by the command cam into alternate backwards-and-forwards movements of the movable blade with respect to the fixed blade. Due to the effect of the alternating movements, the movable blade thrusts the tape forwards, making it slide on the fixed blade, so as to crimp the tape before it is sewn by the needle.
  • PLISSE' type robotized feet are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar by means of said standardized attachment means, in the positions corresponding to the needles intended to be used.
  • the PLISSE' type robotized feet are similar to the RIRI type robotized feet and have only the upper blade which acts directly on the fabric to be crimped, making it slide forwards, either on the sliding surfaces of the materials of the sewing machine, or above the underlying lining if it is present.
  • the amplitude of the feed of the fabric to be crimped can be modified by suitably programming the command motor of the belt, and consequently the crimping can be more or less tight, according to the amplitude of the travel of the movable blade.
  • a plurality of robotized feet for example of the PAILLETTES type, are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar, in the positions corresponding to the needles intended to be used and by means of said standardized attachment means.
  • the feet Apart from the standardized part to connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the feet have a part protruding laterally from the auxiliary supporting bar itself.
  • the PAILLETTES type robotized feet are each equipped with an assembly to feed and cut the paillettes and are commanded by a toothed element, for example a pulley, rotating idle, having a hole through which the sewing needle passes.
  • a toothed element for example a pulley, rotating idle, having a hole through which the sewing needle passes.
  • Each of said rotating toothed elements drives, in a preferential embodiment, a sliding pad made of antifriction material, on which a cursor is fixed that supports a foil.
  • the command motor imparts to the toothed belt rotational movements that are repeated by the rotating toothed element of the PAILLETTES type robotized foot and transformed into alternating backwards-and-forwards movements of the sliding pad, and hence of the cursor and of the foil.
  • These movements cause the first paillette of the strip that has to be applied to find itself with its hole in axis with the hole of the rotating toothed element through which the needle passes.
  • the following paillette of the strip of paillettes is engaged by the foil.
  • the strip of paillettes is thrust forwards, exactly centering the first paillette with the axis of the sewing needle.
  • the advance movement of the strip of paillettes occurs during the descending movement of the sewing needle, so that the needle enters the hole of the paillette to be applied (the first on the strip) at the moment when the paillette itself is centered with the axis of the needle. At this point, it becomes necessary to cut the paillette from the strip in order to allow it to be attached by the sewing needle.
  • a rotary blade is provided, inserted in the lower part of the hole of the rotating toothed element through which the needle passes.
  • the bobbin that feeds the strip of paillettes is positioned above the PAILLETTE foot and is supported by an arm equipped with a pin on which the bobbin rotates, attached to the structure of the machine.
  • the sewing needle descends, enters the hole of the first paillette which is simultaneously cut from the strip, and sews the first side; then, while the needle ascends, the textile material on which the paillette is applied is displaced by an entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette and its second side, diametrically opposite the first. Then, the needle descends again, attaching the paillette with a second stitch that encompasses the second side, then the needle ascends while the textile material is displaced by the same entity and the new paillette is thrust into position under the needle which, during the descent, enters into the hole of the new paillette, thus restarting the cycle.
  • the sewing needle descends, enters the hole of the first paillette, which is simultaneously cut from the strip, and sews the first side.
  • the textile material is displaced by an entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette and its second side, diametrically opposite the first, and the new paillette is thrust into position under the needle which, during the descent, enters into the hole of the new paillette, which in the meantime is cut from the strip, and sews the first side together with the second side of the previous paillette.
  • the textile material is displaced by the same entity and a new paillette is thrust into position under the needle which, descending, enters into the hole of the new paillette, thus restarting the cycle.
  • the sewing needle descends, enters the hole of the first paillette which is simultaneously cut from the strip, and fixes the first side. Then, while the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced by an entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette and a peripheral point of the same paillette located at 120° from the first stitch made by the needle; then the needle descends again and fixes this second side.
  • the textile material While the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced so that the center of the paillette is in axis with the needle that descends again; then, while the needle ascends, the textile material is again displaced by an entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette and a peripheral point of the same paillette located at 120° from the second, then the needle descends again and fixes this third side.
  • the textile material While the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced so that the center of the paillette is in axis with the needle that descends again; then while the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced by an entity equal to the distance between the centers of two contiguous paillettes and finally the needle descends again, enters the hole of the new paillette which simultaneously is cut from the strip and the cycle begins again.
  • the PAILLETTES type robotized foot is suitable to apply paillettes of a varying diameter, for example 3 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm, after suitable modifications.
  • the TRESSE' type slider is equipped with a toothed pulley substantially equal to that of the ECORDING type robotized feet.
  • a device to cut the needle thread is also provided and a clamping device to selectively clamp the rotation of the toothed pulley so that, if the toothed pulley is made to move when the pulley is clamped, the TRESSE' type slider is drawn by the toothed belt and slides transversely on the appropriate guide along the front part of the auxiliary supporting bar.
  • any type of ornamental design can be performed, from the simplest with a linear development, to the most complex and substantially similar to embroidery.
  • a needle is mounted without the corresponding standard feet on the auxiliary supporting bar, while on the rear needle-bearing bar a plurality of needles are mounted, corresponding to the number of stitches that are to be made, with the standard feet corresponding to the needles mounted, on the rear part of the auxiliary supporting bar.
  • the tape or ribbon or trimming to be applied is made to pass in the corresponding hollow of the insert of the toothed pulley of the TRESSE' type slider.
  • the sewing machine according to the invention can thus be used both as a normal sewing machine, for example a multi-needle quilting machine, and as an embroidery machine to apply strips, ribbons, trimmings, crimped tapes, paillettes, on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls, and as a machine to apply ribbons, tapes or trimmings disposed transverse to the direction of feed of the fabric, on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls, and also as a machine to crimp, also over their whole length, simple fabrics or fabrics with a lining beneath, fed continuously from rolls.
  • the sewing machine according to the present invention is extremely versatile and is potentially suitable to apply other accessory elements in order to perform ornamental embellishments with characteristics different from those cited here.
  • the sewing machine according to the invention therefore has high productivity, and entails a considerable economic saving both because of the high working speed, and because of the possibility of working continuously on material unwinding from rolls, and also of performing a substantially unlimited number of ornamental designs and patterns, and also because of the extreme flexibility that allows it, simply and rapidly, to perform multiple applications of ornamental designs, for each of which a specific machine would normally be necessary.
  • an automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine 10 is shown, in this case a multi-needle quilting machine with electronic command, of a substantially conventional type.
  • the sewing machine 10 substantially comprises an inlet assembly 10a, a sewing assembly 10b and an outlet assembly 10c.
  • the inlet assembly 10a feeds the textile material 11 on which the stitches are to be made, and is managed and controlled by a control unit 17, so as to move the textile material 11 in any direction whatsoever, backwards-forwards or left-right, in order to make any design, even the most complex.
  • the sewing assembly 10b comprises upper sewing members 12 and lower sewing members 15 of a conventional type.
  • the upper sewing members 12 consist, in this case, (figs. 2-5) of two needle-bearing bars 13, respectively front 13a and rear 13b, parallel to each other, on which respective needles 14 are mounted, aligned with each other, each one cooperating with a respective thread 16, called the needle thread, fed from respective reels 116 disposed on a creel adjacent to the machine 10.
  • the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b have seatings 38 to position the needles 14, which are clamped therein by means of screws 39.
  • figs. 2, 3,4 and 5 show only some needles 14, it being obvious that according to the type of stitch to be done all the seatings 38 can house a relative needle 14.
  • the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b are equipped with alternating ascending-descending movement, to take the needles 14 to cooperate with the respective lower sewing members 15, consisting in conventional fashion of shuttles, rotary crochets or alternately mobile hooks.
  • the cooperation between the sewing members 12 and 15 determines the simultaneous formation on the textile material 11 of a plurality of stitches 18 which, according to the movement imparted to the textile material 11, make desired patterns to obtain the quilted manufactured article which is collected by the outlet assembly 10c.
  • the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b cooperate with an auxiliary supporting bar 19, disposed transversely, parallel to them and movable alternately in an ascending-descending direction, in a manner correlated to the movement of the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b.
  • the auxiliary supporting bar 19 consists of a high-resistance aluminum plate on the upper surface of which are made, on both sides, a plurality of equidistant housings 20, whose interaxis substantially corresponds with the distance between the needles 14.
  • a plate 21 made of antifriction material is attached, having on both flanks a longitudinal groove with a rectangular section 22, inside which a toothed belt 23 slides, with a development such as to cover the whole lateral perimeter of the auxiliary supporting bar 19.
  • the toothed belt 23 is made of flexible plastic material with toothings on both sides, it slides inside the corresponding grooves 22 of the antifriction plate 21, with one toothed side in contact with the bottom of said grooves 22 and the other toothed side protruding towards the outside.
  • a toothed return pulley 24 and a toothed guide pulley 25 are assembled, both idle.
  • the toothed belt 23 rotates around the return pulley 24 (fig. 3) which, being adjustable, also functions as a tensioner and is oriented by the guide pulley 25 which takes it to adhere precisely to the bottom of the relative groove 22.
  • a command motor 26 is mounted, for example of the electric type, on whose shaft a first command toothed pulley 27 is mounted, on which the toothed belt 23 slides; and a second guide pulley 55, toothed and idle, which allows the toothed belt 23 to adhere precisely to the bottom of the relative groove 22.
  • the command motor 26 can be electronic, electromechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, magnetic or other, and the toothed belt 23 can be a cable, a chain, a rack or other.
  • the command motor 26 is managed by the control unit 17 of the sewing machine 10 and is able to impart to the toothed belt 23 movements with a cadence, amplitude and direction that vary according to the signals received from the control unit 17, according to the operation to be performed, for example set by the operator at the start-up of the machine 10.
  • Each standard foot 28 and 28a has a plane part 60 able to fit precisely in a corresponding housing 20 and be fixed therein with suitable screws 29, and a shaped part 61, spoon-shaped, equipped with suitable holes through which the needles 14 pass, mounted on the respective needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b.
  • the auxiliary supporting bar 19 behaves like a simple fabric-pressing plate and the toothed belt 23 and the command motor 26 remain inactive.
  • a plurality of ECORDING type robotized feet 30 are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in positions corresponding to the needles 14 being used; the feet 30 are also provided with a plane part 60, substantially equivalent to that of the aforesaid standard feet 28, 28a, which is inserted and fixed in the housings 20 of the auxiliary supporting bar 19.
  • the ECORDING type robotized feet 30 are provided with a toothed pulley 31 whose teeth, during use, cooperate with the toothed belt 23, so that any movement whatsoever of the latter is transmitted to the toothed pulleys 31.
  • the toothed pulleys 31 have axially a through hole 54, inside which suitable cylindrical inserts 32 made of ceramic material are inserted under pressure.
  • Each cylindrical insert 32 has an axial hole 29 for the passage of the needle 14 and, in this case, a hole 56 and two hollows 57 and 58 having different diameters and widths.
  • the hole 56 and the hollows 57 and 58 are disposed eccentric with respect to the axial hole 29, and are offset angularly by about 120° one from the other.
  • the strips 33 or the tapes 34 are made to pass, normally fed by bobbins 35 (fig. 1) disposed in the upper part of the sewing machine 10.
  • the strips 33 are advantageously made to pass in the holes 56 with the diameter most similar to theirs. This operation is performed automatically by the control unit 17, which commands the motor 26 so that, according to the diameter of the strip 33, the motor makes the toothed pulleys 31 rotate in order to automatically position the corresponding holes 56 in the correct working position with respect to the needles 14.
  • the command motor 26 imparts to the toothed belt 23 alternate movements simultaneous with the stitches made by the sewing machine 10. This alternate movement is consequently followed by all the toothed pulleys 31 of the ECORDING type robotized feet 30 which, with every stitch, perform a rotation alternately towards the right and towards the left.
  • the alternate rotations, of programmable variable amplitude, determine the spiral winding of the strips 33, around the relative needles 14 and their threads 16, for an angle determined by the angle of rotation of the command motor 26.
  • each strip 33 is fixed to the continuously fed fabric 11 without the needle passing through the strip 33 itself.
  • the strips 33 are drawn downwards by the descending movements of the needles 14 and sewn onto the textile material 11 by the threads of the needles 16, according to the ornamental design or profile programmed, from the simplest with a linear development, to the most complex and substantially comparable to embroidery.
  • tapes 34 are to be fixed on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics 11 fed continuously from rolls, the same ECORDING type robotized feet 30 are used, mounted in the positions corresponding to the needles 14 intended to be used, and the tapes 34 are threaded into the hollows 57 with the width most similar to theirs.
  • This operation too is performed automatically by the control unit 17 which, according to the type of tape 34 to be applied, commands the motor 26 so that it makes the toothed pulleys 31 rotate in order to automatically position the corresponding hollows 57 in the correct working position with respect to the needles 14.
  • the command motor 26 imparts to the toothed belt 23 small corrective movements which the toothed pulleys 31 of the feet translate into small rotations.
  • the ECORDING type robotized feet 30 constantly maintain the tapes 34 in front of the needles 14, according to the direction of stitching. Therefore, the tapes 34 are fixed on the simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics 11 with stitches that are always at the center of the tapes 34, according to the ornamental design or profile programmed.
  • RIRI type robotized feet 37 are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in positions corresponding to the needles 14 in use.
  • the RIRI type robotized feet 37 are also provided with a plane part 60 identical to that of the standard feet 28 and 28a and of the ECORDING type robotized feet 30.
  • the plane part 60 of each RIRI type robotized foot 37 is inserted into the corresponding housing 20 and fixed therein with respective screws.
  • the function of the RIRI type robotized feet 37 is to make a tape 36 advance intermittently, which is sewn by the needle 14 not flattened, but fixed on the textile materials 11 with adjustable crimping.
  • each RIRI type robotized foot 37 is equipped with a toothed pulley 40 which has an axial hole 41 through which the sewing needle 14 passes, and a cam 42 driving a pad 43 made of antifriction material, sliding inside suitable guide hollows 44, made in the body of the RIRI type robotized foot 37.
  • a movable blade 45 made of harmonic steel is fixed on the pad 43 with a slight inclination; the lower free end thereof is advantageously shaped like a saddle so as not to interfere with the needle 14.
  • the movable blade 45 slides with a slight pressure on a fixed blade 46 beneath, also made of harmonic steel, rigidly fixed to the RIRI type robotized foot 37.
  • the tape 36 fed by the relative bobbin, disposed in the upper part of the sewing machine 10, slides between the movable blade 45 and the fixed blade 46 and is guided by two adjustable cursors 49 fixed at inlet to the RIRI type robotized foot 37.
  • the command motor 26 imparts to the toothed belt 23 alternate movements of adjustable amplitude that are repeated by the toothed pulleys 40 and transformed by the cam 42 into alternate backwards-forwards movements of the pad 43 and consequently of the movable blade 45 with respect to the fixed blade 46.
  • the stitch can be either rectilinear, or curved by 360°.
  • the movable blade 45 thrusts the tape 36 forwards, making it slide on the fixed blade 46 above the tape 36 already sewn previously on the textile material 11, and takes it under the needle 14 so that it is sewn above the previously sewn tape 36, thus creating the crimping.
  • the forward movement of the tape 36 is proportional to the movement imparted by the toothed belt 23.
  • a plurality of PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in positions corresponding to the needles 14.
  • the PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 are inserted with their respective plane parts 60, identical to the previous ones, into the mating housings 20 on the supporting bar 19, and fixed therein.
  • the PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 are similar to the RIRI type robotized feet 37, except that they are not provided with the fixed lower blade 46, so that the movable upper blade, indicated by the reference number 45a, acts directly on the fabric 11 to be crimped, making it slide alternately forwards, or above the sliding surface for the fabrics of the sewing machine 10, in the case of a simple fabric, or above the lining below, if it is present.
  • the needles 14 fix between them, or on the lining below, the folds created by the movements of the respective movable blades 45a.
  • the amplitude of feed of the fabric 11 to be crimped can be modified by suitably programming the control unit 17, so as to make the movable blade 45a perform more or less ample travels by means of the toothed belt 23, thus obtaining different types of crimping of the textile material 11.
  • a plurality of robotized feet 70 are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19 by means of said standardized attachment means, in the positions corresponding to the needles 14 intended to be used.
  • the feet 70 Apart from the standardized plane part 60 that connects with the auxiliary supporting bar, the feet 70 have a part 71 protruding laterally from the auxiliary supporting bar 19 itself.
  • the PAILLETTES type robotized feet 70 are each equipped with an assembly to feed and cut the paillettes 80, fed in the form of a strip 81, and are commanded by a toothed pulley 72, rotating idle on bearings 84 and having a central hole 73 through which the relative sewing needle 14 passes.
  • Each of said toothed pulleys 72 is equipped in the lower part with an eccentric element 74 which drives a sliding pad 74 made of antifriction material, on which a cursor 76 is fixed carrying at its end a steel foil 77 shaped like a flexion spring.
  • the free end 77a, pointed, of said foil 77 slides on the bottom of a longitudinal groove 78 made in the laterally protruding part of the PAILLETTES foot 70, the size of said groove 78 being such that the strip 81 that feeds the paillettes 80 slides precisely therein, passing below the toothed pulley 72.
  • the command motor 26 imparts to the toothed belt 23 rotational movements which are repeated by the pulley 72 of the PAILLETTES type robotized foot 70 and transformed by the command cam 74 into alternate backwards-forwards movements of the movable foil 77 with respect to the bottom of the groove 78.
  • the tip 77a of the movable foil 77 is elastically inserted into the hole 82 of one of the paillettes 80 of the strip 81 and, during the forward movement, thrusts forwards the strip 81 that feeds the paillettes 80, making it slide on the bottom of the groove 78 and making it advance by a quantity more or less equal to the diameter of the paillettes 80 in use.
  • the first paillette 80a of the strip 81 that has to be applied finds itself with its hole 82 in axis with the hole 73 in the toothed pulley 72 through which the needle passes.
  • a centering device is provided, consisting of a supporting pin 79 fixed to the protruding part of the PAILLETTES foot 70.
  • a ring 85 rotates on the pin 79, bearing a positioning hook 86 with the same diameter as the hole 82 of the paillettes 80 in use, a drive lever 90 and a return-action spiral spring 87.
  • the tip 77a of the feed foil 77 thanks to its shape, jumps elastically from the hole 82 of the previous paillette 80 to that of the following paillette on the strip 81, without making it slide backwards because it is braked by a felt 88 which presses it against the bottom of the groove 78, while a peg 89 mounted on the cursor 76 thrusts the drive lever 90 backwards, causing the positioning hook 86 to lift, the end of which, hook-shaped, exits from the hole of the paillette 82 in which it was inserted and also causes the spiral spring 87 to load.
  • the tip 77a of the feed foil 77 enters into the hole 82 of a paillette 80 and thrusts the strip 81 forwards, making it slide on the bottom of the groove 78, while the peg 89 gradually releases the drive lever 90 and consequently, due to the effect of the thrust of the spiral spring 87, the pointed hook of the positioning hook 86, is lowered and inserted into the hole 82 of the previous paillette 80 on the strip 81, exactly centering the first paillette 80 with the axis of the relative sewing needle 14.
  • a plane contrasting foil 91 suitably shaped, keeps the strip 81 pressed inside the groove 78 in the last segment between the positioning hook 86 and the toothed pulley 72.
  • the feed movement of the strip 81 occurs during the descending movement of the sewing needle 14, so that the needle 14 enters into the hole 82 of the paillette 80 to be applied (the first on the strip 81) at the moment when the paillette 80 is centered with the axis of the needle 14 by the positioning hook 86. At this point, it is necessary to cut the paillette 80 from the strip 81 to allow it to be fixed on the fabric by the sewing needle 14.
  • a rotary blade 92 is provided, consisting of a hardened steel ring 93 inserted into the lower part of the hole 73 in the toothed pulley 72 where the needle passes.
  • the ring 93 has a protuberance in the part facing downwards which protrudes from the lower plane of the toothed pulley 72; the protuberance in turn has a small sharpened platelet 94 rotating in a circular groove which, during its rotation, comes into contact with the side of the strip 81 and is inserted into the throat between one paillette 80 and the next, cutting the first paillette 80 at the moment after that when the needle 14 has entered the hole 82 of the paillette 80.
  • the bobbin that feeds the strip 81 is positioned above the paillettes foot 70 and is supported by an arm equipped with a pin on which the bobbin rotates, attached to the structure of the machine.
  • the feed foil 77 and the support of the rotation pin 79 of the positioning hook 86 are adjustable so as to allow the exact phasing thereof and to obtain the exact distance between the hole 82 of the paillette 80 in which the positioning hook 86 is inserted, and the first paillette 80 of the strip 81 that is to be applied.
  • the paillettes 80 can be applied on the fabric 11 in three different ways: sequential, superimposed and with star point, which have already been described in detail.
  • paillettes 80 Apart from the continuous application of paillettes 80, both sequential, superimposed and with star point, it is also possible to alternate the application of paillettes with segments of normal stitching or embroidery type stitching, and thus create a very large number of ornamental patterns.
  • the PAILLETTES type robotized foot 70 is suitable to apply paillettes 80 of variable diameter, for example 3 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm, by making the necessary modifications and adjustments of the components.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 is similar to the ECORDING type robotized foot 30, since it is equipped with a toothed pulley 31a substantially equal to that of the ECORDING type robotized feet 30, provided with the same insert made of ceramic material, in this case indicated in its entirety by the reference number 32a, provided with a central hole 61 for the needle 14a.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 is provided with a clamping device 52 able to selectively clamp the rotation of the toothed pulley 31a so that, when the latter is clamped, the movement of the toothed belt 23 determines the movement of the TRESSE' type slider 51 along the corresponding guide 50, transverse to the fabric 11.
  • a needle 14a is mounted at every one of the ends of the needle-bearing bar 13a, without the corresponding standard feet 28, 28a on the auxiliary supporting bar 19, while on the needle-bearing bar 13b a plurality of needles 14 are mounted, corresponding to the number of stitches to be performed, with the standard feet 28 mounted on the rear part of the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in correspondence with the needles 14.
  • the tape or ribbon or trimming 48 is fed from a bobbin, of a substantially conventional type and not shown in the drawings, and is made to pass in a corresponding hollow 62 made through on the insert 32a of the toothed pulley 31a.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 substantially provides the following functioning cycle.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 is stationary, for example at the right end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19.
  • the toothed pulley 31a is clamped by the clamping device 52 (fig. 10) in a position such that its central hole 61 is in axis with the needle 14a mounted at the right end of the needle-bearing bar 13a, and its hollow 62 through which the tape 48 passes is behind said needle 14a with respect to the side on which the fabrics 11 are inserted.
  • the sewing machine 10 starts to sew, the fabrics 11 are fed forwards, all the needles 14 perform parallel stitches and the stitch of the needle 14a mounted at the right end of the needle-bearing bar 13a fixes the tape 48 to the fabric 11.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 acts as a fabric pressing element.
  • a third step of the cycle the needles 14 stop in a high position, the feed of the fabric 11 is stopped and the clamping device 52 releases the toothed pulley 31a (fig. 11).
  • the command motor 26 of the toothed belt 23 performs a small rotation sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate by 90°, so that the hollow through which the tape 48 passes moves to the left of the needle 14a with respect to the side on which the fabrics are inserted.
  • the clamping device 52 clamps the toothed pulley 31a in the position reached.
  • the command motor 26 moves the toothed belt 23, which draws the TRESSE' type slider 51 along the sliding guide 50 until it covers the whole width of the fabric 11. During this travel, the tape 48 passes through the corresponding hollow 62 and is laid transverse on the fabric 11.
  • the TRESSE' type slider 51 reaches the left end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19 and the central hole 61 of its toothed pulley 31a is in axis with the needle 14a mounted at the left end of the needle-bearing bar 13a.
  • the command motor 26 of the toothed belt 23 stops and the clamping device 52 releases the toothed pulley 31a.
  • the command motor 26 performs a small rotation sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate by 90° to take the hollow 62 behind the needle 14a, with respect to the side on which the fabrics are inserted.
  • a sixth step is performed in which the sewing machine 10 starts sewing.
  • the fabrics 11 are made to advance and the needles 14 perform parallel stitches so that the needle 14a fixes the tape 48 to the fabric 11, while the stitches of the needles 14 mounted on the needle-bearing bar 13b fix the tape 48 on the fabric 11 as it is laid transversely during the fourth step.
  • a subsequent seventh step of the cycle the needles 14 stop in a high position, the fabric 11 stops and the clamping device 52 releases the toothed pulley 31a.
  • the command motor 26 of the toothed belt 23 performs a small rotation sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate through 90°, so that the hollow 62 moves to the right of the needle 14a, with respect to the side on which the fabrics 11 are inserted.
  • the clamping device 52 clamps the toothed pulley 31a in the position reached.
  • the command motor 26 makes the toothed belt 23 move in order to draw the TRESSE' type slider 51 along the sliding guide 50 until the central hole 61 of the pulley 31a is in axis with the needle 14a mounted at the left end of the needle-bearing bar 13a.
  • This drawing of the TRESSE' type slider 51 causes the tape 48 to be laid transversely for the whole width of the fabric 11.
  • the movement of the toothed belt 23 can be supplied, instead of by the command motor 26, by any suitable drive means, for example of a pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, electromagnetic or other type.
  • toothed belt 23 can be replaced by another transmission element, such as for example a chain, a rack or other.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (27)

  1. Machine à coudre automatique polyvalente à aiguilles multiples comprenant des organes de couture supérieurs (14) et des organes de couture inférieurs (15) coopérant entre eux de manière à réaliser des points (18) sur un tissu simple ou rembourré (11), avec ou sans doublure, au moins une barre de support auxiliaire (19) coopérant avec lesdits organes de couture (14, 15), machine caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend aussi une pluralité d'éléments accessoires (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70) pouvant être sélectivement associés à ladite barre de support (19) par des moyens de fixation (50, 60) de type standard, lesdits éléments accessoires (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70) étant interchangeables entre eux afin de réaliser l'une ou l'autre d'au moins les opérations de couture multiple, application d'accessoires tels que rubans, passementerie, paillettes ou strass, des bandes, longitudinalement ou transversalement audit tissu (11), ou des fronces.
  2. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins certains desdits éléments accessoires (30, 37, 47, 51, 70) comprennent des moyens de déplacement (31, 40, 31a, 72).
  3. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que lesdits moyens de fixation de type standard comprennent une pluralité de logements (20) ménagés sur une face supérieure de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19), et au moins une pièce de fixation (60), prévue sur chacun desdits éléments accessoires (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70), afin d'être disposée et fixée dans un logement correspondant desdits logements (20).
  4. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que lesdits moyens de fixation de type standard comprennent un guide linéaire (50) prévu sur ladite barre de support (19) et apte à permettre le coulissement transversal d'au moins un type desdits éléments accessoires (51) par rapport à ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19).
  5. Machine à coudre selon l'une quelconque des revendications ci-dessus, caractérisée en ce qu'en-dessous de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) sont prévus des moyens (21) à l'intérieur desquels peut coulisser un élément denté (23) destiné à transmettre le mouvement.
  6. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce qu'aux extrémités de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) sont prévus des moyens de commande, de guidage et de retour pour ledit élément denté (23).
  7. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un moteur de commande (26) géré par un module de contrôle (17), pour la commande sélective et programmable dudit élément denté (23).
  8. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 1 et 3, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent une pluralité de pieds statiques standards (28, 28a) aptes à effectuer des points multiples et des dessins ornementaux sur ledit tissu (11), et comprenant ladite pièce de fixation (60) à la barre de support auxiliaire (19) et au moins une pièce façonnée (61) disposée, en cours d'utilisation, à proximité dudit tissu (11) et munie d'un trou de passage correspondant pour l'organe de couture supérieur (14) associé.
  9. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 2, 3 et 5, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent une pluralité de pieds robotisés (30) aptes à appliquer des rubans (33), des bandes (34) ou de la passementerie sur ledit tissu (11), chacun d'eux comprenant ladite pièce de fixation (60) à la barre de support auxiliaire (19) et au moins une pièce de support pour lesdits moyens de déplacement (31), ceux-ci comprenant une roue dentée (31) en rotation libre et engrenant avec ledit élément denté (23).
  10. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que ladite roue dentée (31) comprend un insert cylindrique (32) muni d'un trou axial (29) pour ledit organe de couture supérieur (14) et d'une pluralité de trous et/ou cavités (57, 58, 62) de différents diamètres et largeurs, excentrés par rapport audit trou axial (29), et par lesquels passent lesdits rubans (33) et/ou lesdites bandes (34) à appliquer.
  11. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 2, 3 et 5, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent une pluralité de pieds robotisés (37) aptes à appliquer des bandes froncées (36) sur ledit tissu (11), chacun d'eux comprenant ladite pièce de fixation (60) à la barre de support auxiliaire (19) et des moyens de déplacement comprenant une roue dentée (40) apte à engrener avec ledit élément denté (23) et munie d'un trou central (41) à travers lequel passe ledit organe de couture supérieur (14), et d'une came (42) apte à déplacer en va-et-vient une semelle (43), ladite semelle (43) étant apte à supporter une lame mobile (45) apte à glisser sur une lame fixe (46) associée de façon rigide audit pied robotisé (37).
  12. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 2, 3 et 5, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent une pluralité de pieds robotisés (70) aptes à réaliser des fronces sur toute la largeur dudit tissu (11), chacun d'eux comprenant ladite pièce de fixation (60) à la barre de support auxiliaire (19) et des moyens de déplacement comprenant une roue dentée (40) apte à engrener avec ledit élément denté (23) et munie d'un trou central (41) à travers lequel passe ledit organe de couture supérieur (14), et d'une came (42) apte à déplacer en va-et-vient une semelle (43), ladite semelle (43) étant apte à supporter une lame mobile (45a) apte à agir sur ledit tissu (11) à froncer.
  13. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 2 et 3, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent une pluralité de pieds robotisés (70) aptes à appliquer des paillettes (80) sur ledit tissu (11), chacun d'eux comprenant ladite pièce de fixation (60) à la barre de support auxiliaire (19) et des moyens de déplacement comprenant une roue dentée (72) apte à engrener avec ledit élément denté (23) et munie d'un trou central (73) à travers lequel passe ledit organe de couture supérieur (14), et d'une came (74) apte à déplacer en va-et-vient une semelle (75), ladite semelle (75) étant apte à supporter une lame mobile (77) apte à s'engager dans un trou (82) de l'une desdites paillettes (80) afin de définir l'avancée progressive de celle-ci vers ladite roue dentée (72) pour piquer ladite paillette (80) sur ledit tissu (11) au moyen de l'aiguille associée (14).
  14. Machine à coudre selon la revendication 13, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un élément de positionnement en forme de crochet (86) apte à centrer le trou (82) de la paillette (80) à appliquer avec le trou (73) de la roue dentée (72), et par conséquent dans l'axe de l'aiguille (14).
  15. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 12 et 13, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une structure de coupe (92, 93, 94) de type rotatif et disposée en coopération avec la partie inférieure du trou (73) de ladite roue dentée (72), apte à couper la paillette (80) après son application sur le tissu (11), pour la détacher du ruban d'alimentation (81).
  16. Machine à coudre selon les revendications 2, 4 et 5, caractérisée en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires comprennent un coulisseau (51) apte à appliquer des bandes (48), des rubans ou de la passementerie transversalement au sens d'alimentation dudit tissu (11), et en ce que lesdits moyens de déplacement comprennent au moins une roue dentée (31a) apte à engrener avec ledit élément denté (23), un dispositif pour couper le fil de l'aiguille et un dispositif de blocage (52) apte à bloquer de manière sélective la rotation de ladite roue dentée (31a), afin de permettre la traction dudit coulisseau (51) le long dudit guide linéaire (50).
  17. Procédé de couture sur un tissu simple ou multicouche (11), avec ou sans doublure, pour une machine à coudre automatique polyvalente à aiguilles multiples comprenant au moins des organes de couture supérieurs (14) et des organes de couture inférieurs (15) coopérant entre eux, et une barre de support auxiliaire (19) coopérant avec lesdits organes de couture, procédé caractérisé en ce qu'il prévoit de réaliser l'une ou l'autre d'au moins les opérations de couture multiple, application d'accessoires tels que rubans, passementerie ou bandes, paillettes ou strass, longitudinalement ou transversalement par rapport audit tissu (11), ou des fronces, par l'assemblage sélectif d'un élément choisi parmi une pluralité d'éléments accessoires (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70), interchangeables entre eux et pouvant tous être montés, par des moyens de fixation (50, 60) sur une barre de support auxiliaire (19) coopérant avec lesdits organes de couture (14, 15).
  18. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un premier type statique desdits éléments accessoires (28, 28a) sert à réaliser des points multiples avec un nombre illimité de dessins ou de motifs ornementaux sur des tissus simples, multicouches ou rembourrés (11), alimentés en continu à partir de rouleaux.
  19. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un deuxième type robotisé desdits éléments accessoires (30) sert à piquer des rubans (33), des bandes (34) ou de la passementerie sur des tissus simples, multicouches ou rembourrés (11), alimentés en continu à partir de rouleaux.
  20. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce que selon le type de ruban (33), de bande (34) ou de passementerie à appliquer, lesdits éléments accessoires (30) sont positionnés et déplacés automatiquement vers une position de travail, par rapport auxdits organes de couture supérieurs (14), de manière à fixer ledit ruban (33) audit tissu (11) sans que ladite aiguille (14) ne traverse ledit ruban (33), ou de manière à fixer ladite bande (34) audit tissu (11), les points étant toujours au milieu de ladite bande (34).
  21. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un troisième type robotisé desdits éléments accessoires (70) sert à piquer des paillettes ou du strass (80) sur des tissus simples, multicouches ou rembourrés (11), alimentés en continu à partir de rouleaux.
  22. Procédé selon la revendication 21, caractérisé en ce qu'il prévoit une première étape consistant à introduire sélectivement un ruban (81) desdites paillettes (80) par le mouvement de va-et-vient d'un élément pointu (77) dont la pointe (77a) s'engage dans le trou (82) de la première desdites paillettes (80), une deuxième étape consistant à positionner ladite paillette (80) dans l'axe de l'aiguille (14) au moyen d'un élément de positionnement de type crochet (86), une troisième étape consistant à coudre la paillette (80) sur le tissu (11) et une quatrième étape consistant à couper la première paillette (80) de son ruban d'alimentation (81) au moyen d'un élément coupant rotatif disposé à proximité de la position de couture et pouvant être introduit dans la gorge située entre deux paillettes adjacentes (80).
  23. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un quatrième type robotisé desdits éléments accessoires (37) sert à appliquer des bandes froncées (36) sur ledit tissu (11).
  24. Procédé selon la revendication 23, caractérisé en ce que lesdits éléments accessoires (37) poussent en va-et-vient vers l'avant lesdites bandes (36) au moyen d'une lame mobile (45), en les faisant glisser sur une lame fixe (46) de manière à les froncer avant qu'elles ne soient cousues par lesdits organes de couture supérieurs (14).
  25. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un cinquième type robotisé desdits éléments accessoires (47) sert à froncer toute la largeur dudit tissu (11).
  26. Procédé selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce qu'un sixième type desdits éléments accessoires (51) sert à appliquer des bandes (48), des rubans ou de la passementerie disposés transversalement au sens d'avancée dudit tissu (11).
  27. Procédé selon la revendication 26, caractérisé en ce que le fonctionnement de chacun desdits éléments accessoires du sixième type (51) prévoit au moins les étapes opérationnelles suivantes :
    - une première étape où l'élément accessoire est stationnaire à une première extrémité de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) et ladite bande (48) est placée derrière l'un desdits organes de couture supérieurs (14a) par rapport au côté d'entrée du tissu (11) ;
    - une deuxième étape où l'on fait avancer ledit tissu (11) et, grâce au piquage effectué par ledit organe de couture supérieur (14a), ladite bande (48) est fixée audit tissu (11) ;
    - une troisième étape où ledit tissu (11) est arrêté et ladite bande (48) est amenée à gauche dudit organe de couture supérieur (14a) par rapport au côté d'entrée dudit tissu (11) ;
    - une quatrième étape où l'élément accessoire (51) est tiré transversalement le long de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) jusqu'à ce qu'il couvre toute la largeur dudit tissu (11), de manière à poser ladite bande (48) transversalement sur ledit tissu (11) ;
    - une cinquième étape où ledit élément accessoire (51) se trouve à une seconde extrémité de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) et où ladite bande (48) est derrière ledit organe de couture supérieur (14a) par rapport au côté d'entrée dudit tissu (11) ;
    - une sixième étape où l'on fait avancer ledit tissu (11) et, grâce au piquage effectué par ledit organe de couture supérieur (14a), ladite bande (48) est fixée audit tissu (11);
    - une septième étape où ledit tissu (11) est arrêté et ladite bande (48) est amenée à droite dudit organe de couture supérieur (14a) par rapport au côté d'entrée dudit tissu (11) ; et
    - une huitième étape où ledit élément accessoire (51) est tiré transversalement le long de ladite barre de support auxiliaire (19) jusqu'à ce qu'il couvre toute la largeur dudit tissu (11), de manière à poser ladite bande (48) transversalement sur ledit tissu (11).
EP05784746A 2004-09-30 2005-07-04 Machine a coudre automatique polyvalente a aiguilles multiples, et procede de couture associe(en) automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, and relative sewing method Active EP1709230B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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IT000188A ITUD20040188A1 (it) 2004-09-30 2004-09-30 Macchina di cucitura multiaghi automatica
PCT/IB2005/001882 WO2006035270A1 (fr) 2004-09-30 2005-07-04 Machine a coudre automatique polyvalente a aiguilles multiples, et procede de couture associe

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EP1709230B1 true EP1709230B1 (fr) 2007-09-19

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US (1) US20080245283A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1709230B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1906344A (fr)
AT (1) ATE373736T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE602005002535T2 (fr)
IT (1) ITUD20040188A1 (fr)
TR (1) TR200602224T1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2006035270A1 (fr)

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CN1906344A (zh) 2007-01-31
EP1709230A1 (fr) 2006-10-11
DE602005002535T2 (de) 2008-06-26
TR200602224T1 (tr) 2007-02-21
WO2006035270A1 (fr) 2006-04-06
ATE373736T1 (de) 2007-10-15
US20080245283A1 (en) 2008-10-09
ITUD20040188A1 (it) 2004-12-30
DE602005002535D1 (de) 2007-10-31

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