EP1568291A1 - Bijou avec une sertissure - Google Patents

Bijou avec une sertissure Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1568291A1
EP1568291A1 EP05251037A EP05251037A EP1568291A1 EP 1568291 A1 EP1568291 A1 EP 1568291A1 EP 05251037 A EP05251037 A EP 05251037A EP 05251037 A EP05251037 A EP 05251037A EP 1568291 A1 EP1568291 A1 EP 1568291A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
item
jewellery
stone
setting means
rear face
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05251037A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Peter Schmid
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
G & A Ltd
Original Assignee
G & A Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by G & A Ltd filed Critical G & A Ltd
Publication of EP1568291A1 publication Critical patent/EP1568291A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an item of jewellery and setting therefor.
  • An alternative method of attaching gemstones or stones to an item of jewellery is to provide a claw type of setting 102 which is attached to a rear surface 104 of the item of jewellery 106, as shown in figures 1a-1c.
  • a problem with this type of setting is that the gemstone 108 is recessed from the front surface 110 of the item of jewellery, thereby reducing the visibility of the gemstone to a user.
  • dirt is able to build up in the recessed portion 112 which detracts from the aesthetic appearance and sparkle of the gemstone and, since the gemstone 108 is difficult if not impossible to clean once fitted to the jewellery item, this problem significantly reduces the aesthetic appearance of the jewellery item.
  • an item of jewellery said item of jewellery including a front face and a rear face, an aperture defined between said front and rear face for the location of at least one stone therein, characterised in that said at least one stone is attached to the jewellery item via the rear face in such a manner that the top of the at least one stone is substantially flush with or protrudes from the front face of the jewellery item.
  • the present invention has the advantage that the stone is closer to the upper surface of the jewellery item and is therefore more visible and can be more easily cleaned. Furthermore, the stone is attached in a more robust manner and is less likely to become detached and fall out of the jewellery item.
  • the stone is attached to the jewellery item, at least in part, via setting means.
  • the setting means is typically attached to or integral with the rear face of the jewellery item.
  • the setting means preferably undergoes a crimping process to secure the stone to the setting means.
  • the crimping process shapes the setting means to form one or more protrusions which engage against and/or under the stone.
  • At least the rear face surrounding the aperture is provided with a substantially flat seat or edge.
  • the stone is attached to the jewellery item via setting means and the setting means is typically soldered to the substantially flat seat or edge on the rear surface of the item. In this position, the free edge of the setting means typically protrudes in a direction away from the front surface of the jewellery item.
  • the stone can also be provided to protrude outwardly of the flat seat on the rear side of the jewellery item.
  • a stone is located in the setting means in a required orientation and is secured in place by securing means.
  • the securing means includes a crimping process.
  • the free end of the setting means is substantially planar (i.e. the free edges of the setting means are in substantially the same plane).
  • the free end of the setting means can be provided with one or more projections thereon, such as claw type members and/or the like.
  • the projections engage against or under a surface of the stone.
  • the setting means in one embodiment is a seating ring but the setting means is typically in the form of a sleeve member (either having continuous or partially continuous side walls) of any required shape with a channel running therethrough.
  • the seating ring is substantially cylindrical in form.
  • the jewellery item can be formed from any required material in any required shape or size.
  • the present invention could also extend to cover any stone embedded article.
  • the item of jewellery can be a pendant, necklace, locket, bracelet, earring, ring, watch and/or the like.
  • the rear surface of the item of jewellery or article can be substantially flat or substantially curved.
  • a method of setting at least one stone in an item of jewellery including the steps of forming an aperture between a front face and rear face of the jewellery item, attaching at least one stone to the jewellery item via the rear face in such a manner that the top of the at least one stone is substantially flush with or protrudes from the front face of the jewellery item.
  • setting means According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided setting means.
  • an ornamental article having at least one stone set therein in accordance with the method of the present invention.
  • the advantage of the present invention is that the setting allows the stone to be substantially flush with or protruding from the front surface of the jewellery item, thereby allowing the stone to be polished after it has been set in the jewellery item, either by the manufacturer or a user. This is not possible with the prior art methods.
  • the stone can be pre-polished prior to setting in the item of jewellery.
  • the present invention avoids the problem of dirt building up in the recessed area of the ring adjacent the front surface of the stone.
  • a further advantage of the present invention is that of the crimping process since it allows stones of the size of one point diamonds to be successfully set in a jewellery item.
  • the seating ring has the advantage that it prevents the stone from escaping sideways. It also acts as a centering device to allow the stone to be set.
  • the crimping method creates a much stronger holding force compared with conventional claw settings. For example, if one claw breaks there is substantial risk that the stone will become disengaged and may get lost.
  • stone could include any precious or semi-precious stone, gem stone, rock, glass and/or a pre-defined shape of any suitable material and/or the like.
  • the stone can be any shape or size.
  • the stone could be substantially cone shaped on a rear surface thereof or could be substantially flat.
  • an item of jewellery in the form of an earring 2 in which a stone 4 is set into the earring using a setting method according to the present invention.
  • the earring 2 in this example is a hinged earring including a first part 6 which is hingcdly connected to a second part 8.
  • a fixing rod 10 is integrally formed to first part 6 for location through a piercing in a user's ear or other suitable part of a user's body.
  • Earring 2 has a front surface 12 and a rear surface 14.
  • An aperture 16 is punched transversally through the first part 6 of the earring between the front and rear surface thereof, as shown in figure 3c. This step can be undertaken using a toggle press. The earring is held in place over a location former and a working part of the former is brought down onto the front or rear surface 12, 14 to pierce the aperture 16.
  • the working part of the tool is typically called a "former” and includes a protruding member or peg of the required cross sectional shape and size which is brought into contact with the earring for forming the aperture.
  • the aperture is substantially circular in shape.
  • the location former punches the earring in such a way that the peripheral edge of the rear surface 14 and the front surface 12 of the earring is provided with a substantially flat seat 18.
  • the setting which holds the stone 4 in place on the earring is then attached to the flat seat 18 on the rear surface 14 of the earring.
  • the setting is in the form of a seating ring 20, as shown in figure 3d, and this is placed in position on a solder peg.
  • Solder is located on the seating ring, typically along opposite edges thereof.
  • the solder peg and seating ring are then placed through aperture 16 from the direction of the rear surface 14.
  • the solder peg, seating ring and earring assembly can then be placed in a solder jig for passage through a solder furnace. On removal of the assembly from the solder jig, the solder peg is removed, thereby leaving the seating ring soldered to the flat seat 18 on the rear surface 14 of the earring, as shown in figure 3c.
  • the free ends of the seating ring protrude in a direction away from the front surface of the earring.
  • a plurality of cleaning or polishing steps and/or similar can then be undertaken if required to clean the earring of any solder and/or remove any dirt or debris picked up during the soldering process.
  • the earring can be taken through any or any combination of:
  • the stone 4 is then set in the seating ring 20 using tweezers or some other means for manipulating the stone into a required position on the earring.
  • the stone is placed through aperture 16 via the rear surface 14 with the front surface 22 of the stone facing in the direction of the front surface of the earring.
  • the front surface 22 of the stone is preferably substantially flush with the front surface 12 of the earring.
  • the stone could be placed so as to protrude from the front surface 12 of the earring or recessed from the front surface 12 of the earring.
  • the earring and stone are then moved into position on a stone crimping tool and the free edge 26 of the seating ring 20 is crimped into place against the rear surface 24 of stone 4, as shown in figure 2b.
  • This crimping process typically involves the movement of two to eight portions (and possibly more) of the free edge of the seating ring into engagement with the base of the stone. Other engagement processes could be used if required (i.e. Romanset)
  • the stone and/or earring can then undergo further cleaning and polishing steps if required.
  • the stone could be pre-polished prior to fitting with the earring.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
EP05251037A 2004-02-28 2005-02-23 Bijou avec une sertissure Withdrawn EP1568291A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0404472A GB0404472D0 (en) 2004-02-28 2004-02-28 Item of jewellery and setting therefor
GB0404472 2004-02-28

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1568291A1 true EP1568291A1 (fr) 2005-08-31

Family

ID=32051049

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05251037A Withdrawn EP1568291A1 (fr) 2004-02-28 2005-02-23 Bijou avec une sertissure

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1568291A1 (fr)
GB (1) GB0404472D0 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2900802A1 (fr) * 2006-05-12 2007-11-16 Joseph Labbani Piece de bijouterie formant ecrin pour le montage d'une perle
DE202021002484U1 (de) 2021-03-02 2022-06-03 Liliane Pipek Schnell-Haltevorrichtung zum Fixieren von Edelsteinen und oder Applikationen in Schmuckstücken

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1182534A (en) * 1915-12-18 1916-05-09 Joseph Driggott Gem-clamping device for an article of jewelry.
GB1279175A (en) * 1969-05-02 1972-06-28 Diamants Et Joailleries Henri A process for mounting diamonds or other precious stones on the body of a piece of jewellery
FR2667486A1 (fr) * 1990-10-03 1992-04-10 Bernon Gerard Systeme de sertissure amovible.
US5456095A (en) * 1993-05-21 1995-10-10 Tawil; David Interchangeable setting for jewelry pieces
DE19606587A1 (de) * 1996-02-22 1997-08-28 Bauer Christian Gmbh & Co Schmuckartikel und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben
WO2000041587A1 (fr) * 1999-01-14 2000-07-20 Wai To Metal Manufactory Ltd. Monture de pierres precieuses

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1182534A (en) * 1915-12-18 1916-05-09 Joseph Driggott Gem-clamping device for an article of jewelry.
GB1279175A (en) * 1969-05-02 1972-06-28 Diamants Et Joailleries Henri A process for mounting diamonds or other precious stones on the body of a piece of jewellery
FR2667486A1 (fr) * 1990-10-03 1992-04-10 Bernon Gerard Systeme de sertissure amovible.
US5456095A (en) * 1993-05-21 1995-10-10 Tawil; David Interchangeable setting for jewelry pieces
DE19606587A1 (de) * 1996-02-22 1997-08-28 Bauer Christian Gmbh & Co Schmuckartikel und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben
WO2000041587A1 (fr) * 1999-01-14 2000-07-20 Wai To Metal Manufactory Ltd. Monture de pierres precieuses

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2900802A1 (fr) * 2006-05-12 2007-11-16 Joseph Labbani Piece de bijouterie formant ecrin pour le montage d'une perle
DE202021002484U1 (de) 2021-03-02 2022-06-03 Liliane Pipek Schnell-Haltevorrichtung zum Fixieren von Edelsteinen und oder Applikationen in Schmuckstücken

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB0404472D0 (en) 2004-03-31

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