Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
  • A41B9/00—Undergarments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
  • A41C5/005—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres by moulding
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
  • A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
  • A41B9/00—Undergarments
  • A41B9/02—Drawers or underpants for men, with or without inserted crotch or seat parts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
  • A41B9/00—Undergarments
  • A41B9/04—Knickers for ladies, with or without inserted crotch or seat parts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C3/00—Brassieres
  • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres

Definitions

• the present invention relates to an item of lace lingerie allowing the maintenance, the support, even the protection of a part of the female body on the one hand, and its manufacture on the other hand.
• the articles concerned are bras, panties, briefs and thongs, the purpose of which is to carry out at least one of the abovementioned functions.
• lingerie articles were generally made from flat pieces of fabric or lace assembled to constitute the finished product usable, that is to say ready to be coated.
• the seams of the various pieces made it possible in particular to obtain three-dimensional volumes, for example necessary for the production of the cups of the bras. Said seams, however, form excess thicknesses which can irritate the skin, and which are generally a drawback which the manufacturers have sought to avoid.
• bonding, welding, etc. technologies have been developed and applied to this field in order to reduce or even eliminate the existence of seams.
• the tulle which forms the basic mesh of the lace is by definition a very light, openwork material, comprising a reduced number of fibers.
• a relatively small number of fibers must therefore be able to withstand the same constraints as in conventional products made of a "full" textile material.
• the three-dimensional shape of the cups is generally obtained by molding, and said fibers must consequently also be able to withstand the deformation imparted during the molding operation.
• said mechanical strength must not only be ensured in the sole support zone of the part of the female body which it covers, but also allow a distribution of the forces over almost the entire article which takes particular account of the constraints.
• the lace lingerie article of the invention is characterized in that the lace is made of an elastic material that is simultaneously thermoformable, weldable and suitable for laminating at least one reinforcing element, said lace being able to undergo without deterioration of the lace thread a permanent deformation by thermoforming during a molding operation for the production of lingerie articles in all the usual sizes, and retaining after deformation a mechanical strength and an elasticity such that said articles preserve their ability to support and to maintain the part of the body which they cover.
• the conditions and criteria to be fulfilled for the material chosen as lace thread are therefore multiple, and required numerous validation tests before obtaining articles which correctly perform their function whatever their size.
• thermoforming carried out at the time of molding the volume of the cup is much more important than for a cup of smaller size. It is however essential that the intrinsic qualities of the fibers are nevertheless preserved after the corresponding deformation, because the weight of the breast to be supported by the cup is, in this hypothesis, much greater than that of the breasts supported by cups having undergone less significant deformation . This is the reason why this deformation must, in the first place, not deteriorate the wire, nor must it not significantly affect "its mechanical characteristics.
• the adequate lace to respond to this problem is composed of a mixture of polyamide and elastane. More precisely, in proportions of the following order: 60 to 80% of polyamide and 20 to 40% of elastane.
• lace and in particular its preforming which gives it part of its ability to deform, are also preponderant.
• the lingerie articles are coated with reinforcing elements such as linings, plastron, protections, etc.
• reinforcing elements such as linings, plastron, protections, etc.
• this or these reinforcing elements must of course be mechanically linked to the lace forming the outside of the article, and able to undergo the same constraints.
• the adhesive material used for the lamination of the reinforcing element or elements is elastic and thermoactivable at a temperature such that it can then undergo thermoforming while preserving the quality of the bonding and retaining after deformation a holding mechanical and elasticity compatible with the support and the maintenance of the part of the body which the article of lingerie covers.
• this adhesive must have is of course to guarantee the connection between the outer layer and the inner layer, that is to say to prevent untimely take-offs between the lining and the lace.
• the adhesive material is a polyurethane adhesive meltable at a temperature below the temperature of the thermoforming, and which remains active during the latter. Even more precisely, this adhesive is meltable from 180 ° C.
• the third essential part of the lingerie articles according to the invention consists of internal reinforcing or protective elements, which moreover also have an impact on wearing comfort. According to the invention, these consist of a material capable of undergoing the deformation induced by thermoforming while preserving after deformation a mechanical strength and an elasticity compatible with the support and the maintenance of the part of the body that the article of lingerie they equip. In fact, the same basic condition obviously applies to the three superimposed layers, where they exist.
• the material used for said reinforcing elements is an elastic jersey allowing a substantially identical elongation longitudinally and transversely.
• the jersey stitches are therefore stretchable in the same way in two directions.
• this jersey is made of 85 to 95% of polyamide and 5 to 15% of elastane. Tests have shown that, quite preferably, when the jersey is made of 89% polyamide and 11% elastane, the results are the best.
• the lining being intended to reinforce the welds of the articles and the cups of the brassieres, it must have characteristics of sufficient nervousness to accompany the deformations which affect them during daily use.
• This nervousness which is defined as the force exerted to obtain an elongation of 40%, is approximately 1.1 N ⁇ 0.5 N longitudinally and transversely, that is to say in the two directions mentioned above.
• the lingerie article according to the invention is made from a strip of preformed lace for the article to which it is allocated, the edges of said lace strip being reinforced to eliminate the need for laying d elastic (s) on said article, which is produced by cutting at least one piece from one of the reinforced edges without reaching the other edge, welding the said piece (s) and laminating at least one element reinforcement.
• the preforming is different depending on the use of the article in a bra on the one hand, panties, briefs or thong on the other hand. It consists in fixing the dimensions in width and in length of a lace during a passage in oar under conditions of temperatures close to 185 ° C. This operation is carried out prior to dyeing, it allows the articles not to be degraded during subsequent treatments, in particular mechanical, during manufacture (molding) as well as during the succession of wash / wear cycles during life. of the product.
• the preforming thus makes it possible to differentiate the lace, that which is intended for bras whose manufacturing process contains a hot molding being different from that intended for thongs or briefs, the manufacture of which does not require molding.
• the lace intended for bras has more potential elongation in the direction of the width, in order to be able to mold without problem the great depths of cups.
• an elongation of material is certainly produced in length and in width, but the shape of the cups implies a greater stretching in the width.
• the reinforced edges of the band have mechanical properties which allow them to replace an elastic band, either around the waist for briefs or thongs, or around the bust, under the breasts, for bras.
• the welding of the various parts obtained by cutting from one of the reinforced edges is by ultrasound, which makes it possible to reduce the number of seams on articles made entirely of lace.
• the lingerie article according to the invention is a bra, it is made from a strip of preformed lace so that its nervousness, the force exerted to obtain an elongation of 40%, or 3, 7 N ⁇ 1.2 N lengthwise in the middle of the strip, 5.7 N ⁇ 1.7 N lengthwise on the reinforced edges, and 10.5 N ⁇ 3.2 N across the width of the strip.
• the lace band has a width of about 30 cm. It should be noted that the nervousness of the reinforced edges is greater than that of the middle of the strip, which clearly indicates that their function is to replace an elastic band.
• the cups of the bras of the invention are reinforced with a laminated lining.
• the cups can also be made up of two identical pieces of shape such that the reinforced edges marking the bottom of each cup are arranged in a chevron after welding from one to the other.
• the realization of said chevron from the lace panels has the function of improving the fit by facilitating the plating of the lower part of the bra on the female bust.
• the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a bra meeting the preceding characteristics, comprising the following steps: preforming for bras of a lace band of about 30 cm in width; cutting parts to be assembled to form said bras; welding of said parts; coating of the reinforcement material with points of non-thermoactivatable polyurethane coIle; bonding a film of heat-activatable adhesive material to said material; cutting of reinforcing elements; bonding said reinforcing elements to the lace by thermoactivation of the adhesive material; thermoforming of the cups at a temperature between 190 and
• the lingerie article according to the invention may relate to panties, briefs or a thong, made from a lace band which is then preformed in a different manner, to adapt it to the constraints specific to these articles.
• the lace band in this case has a width of about 34 cm, to allow all sizes of briefs or thongs to be made.
• the lace has less stretching capacity but greater nervousness in the width direction than in the version for bras.
• the invention relates, on a secondary basis, to a process for manufacturing panties, briefs or a lace thong meeting the above characteristics, and comprising the following steps: preforming for panties, briefs or thongs of a lace band about 34 cm wide; cutting of at least one piece constituting the panties, the briefs or the thong; welding of said part or parts; - coating of the reinforcement material with dots of non-thermoactivatable polyurethane adhesive; bonding a film of heat-activatable adhesive material to said material; cutting of reinforcing elements; bonding of said elements on the lace by thermoactivation of the adhesive material.
• FIG. 1 is a front view of a lace bra according to the invention, provided with a reinforcement plastron at the cups;
• - Figure 2 shows a strip of preformed lace for the production of bras, with the outline of the pieces intended to form the cups;
• Figure 3 schematically shows the assembly of the two chevron cups;
• - Figure 4 schematically illustrates a lace brief according to the invention;
• Figure 5 shows a string;
• FIG. 6 illustrates, by way of example, the optimization in the layout of the pieces to be cut on a strip of preformed lace for the production of thongs.
• the lace bra of the invention has two parts symmetrical with respect to an axis (A) at which the ultrasonic welding of said parts takes place, in the zone referenced (1).
• the bra is then made seamless, and there is more to add the fixing and adjustment devices, on the one hand at both ends side (2, 3) for attachment in the back, and on the other hand at the straps.
• front portions (4, 5) intended to be connected to the rear portions (6, 7) by a mechanical device allowing a size adjustment, and accessible for example above the shoulder.
• the bra therefore consists of a single piece formed entirely by lace, including the lower part which is constituted by the reinforced edge (8), which replaces, as previously mentioned, an elastic band. .
• the existence of this reinforced edge (8) by eliminating the need for the installation of an elastic, further optimizes the manufacture of the bra by eliminating the step that this installation would have required, and constitutes an advantage in terms of wearing comfort since it eliminates any seam in this tightening area around the bust. From an aesthetic point of view, the lower border of the bra, surrounding the female bust under the breasts, finally becomes lighter while retaining the mechanical efficiency of an additional elastic.
• a reinforcing plastron (9) is disposed at the bottom of the cups, that is to say in the area which is subjected to the most significant mechanical stresses, due to the weight of the breasts.
• This plastron (9) is located in the regions undergoing a molding (10, 10 ') for the creation of the volumes forming the cups of the bra.
• This molding carried out by thermoforming, must not deteriorate the connection between the plastron (9) and the lace, and must not alter the mechanical qualities of the article in terms of support and support, whatever the size of the cups. to mold.
• the optimized layout of the cups (B1, B2), each from a reinforced edge (8) shows in particular that an angle greater than 90 ° is introduced between said reinforced edge (8) and the line (11) at which the attachment to the other cap is effected.
• This line (11) is shown in dotted lines, because the portion which it delimits with the external line is intended to be cut before welding of the cups, as shown in FIG. 3.
• the existence of this upper angle at 90 ° makes it possible to conform the reinforced reinforced edge (8) of the front part of the bra in the shape of a chevron.
• these reinforced edges are in fact scalloped, and therefore have a different nervousness than that of other regions of lace, to ensure its function, that is to say the replacement of an elastic.
• the reinforced scalloped edge (8) is obviously located at the upper edge of the briefs shown in Figure 4, which is made from two separate pieces of lace welded to the hips, at the dotted lines (12, 12 ').
• FIG. 6 The layout of the single piece intended to form the thongs is represented in FIG. 6, in the preformed lace strip for the production of this article.
• the said tracing is carried out from a reinforced scalloped border (8), in the direction of the other edge but without reaching it.
• the elastic function is indeed required, on the periphery of the female body, only in one place.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Materials Engineering (AREA)
• Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
• Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)
• Laminated Bodies (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=8871349

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (20)

Families Citing this family (10)

Citations (2)

Family Cites Families (7)

• 2002
  • 2002-01-18 FR FR0200618A patent/FR2834864B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2003
  • 2003-01-20 YU YU72903A patent/YU72903A/sh unknown
  • 2003-01-20 JP JP2003559270A patent/JP2005514536A/ja not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-01-20 CN CNB038018004A patent/CN100398020C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2003-01-20 BR BR0302721-0A patent/BR0302721A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2003-01-20 IL IL16287503A patent/IL162875A0/xx unknown
  • 2003-01-20 US US10/501,839 patent/US20050159078A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-01-20 AU AU2003216740A patent/AU2003216740A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-01-20 EP EP03712262A patent/EP1465506A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-01-20 PL PL03369443A patent/PL369443A1/xx unknown
  • 2003-01-20 KR KR10-2004-7001196A patent/KR20040082371A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2003-01-20 CA CA002453923A patent/CA2453923A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-01-20 WO PCT/FR2003/000162 patent/WO2003059098A2/fr active Application Filing
  • 2003-01-20 EA EA200400964A patent/EA005842B1/ru not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2003-01-20 MX MXPA04000329A patent/MXPA04000329A/es not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2003-09-09 NO NO20033992A patent/NO20033992L/no not_active Application Discontinuation
• 2004
  • 2004-01-29 BG BG108552A patent/BG108552A/xx unknown
  • 2004-06-25 TN TNP2004000119A patent/TNSN04119A1/fr unknown
  • 2004-06-30 MA MA27757A patent/MA26383A1/fr unknown
  • 2004-07-15 ZA ZA200405662A patent/ZA200405662B/en unknown

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