EP1464744A2 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Filamentpolgewebes - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Filamentpolgewebes Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP1464744A2
EP1464744A2 EP03293352A EP03293352A EP1464744A2 EP 1464744 A2 EP1464744 A2 EP 1464744A2 EP 03293352 A EP03293352 A EP 03293352A EP 03293352 A EP03293352 A EP 03293352A EP 1464744 A2 EP1464744 A2 EP 1464744A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
filament
corduroy
fabric
warp
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP03293352A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1464744A3 (de
Inventor
Sang-Myun Yeo
Jong-Kyu Oh
Jang-Ik Shon
Ki-Hyun Im
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Chemical Korea Inc
Original Assignee
Saehan Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Saehan Industries Inc filed Critical Saehan Industries Inc
Publication of EP1464744A2 publication Critical patent/EP1464744A2/de
Publication of EP1464744A3 publication Critical patent/EP1464744A3/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/06—Warp pile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/063—Load-responsive characteristics high strength

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a corduroy fabric using a microfiber or ultrafine microfiber filament yarn, which has the drapability and elasticity and soft handle feel peculiar to the filament.
  • a corduroy fabric is a velveteen-like woven cut pile fabric with wales, and called "a needle cord.
  • This fabric has various colors, is formed of various layers each having wide or narrow wales, and is durable and practical. Thus, it is frequently used as a cloth for work wears, casual wears, children's wears, and the like.
  • the warp/weft of the prior corduroy fabric is made of a staple fiber, such as cotton/cotton, cotton/polyester, and cotton/polyester-rayon mixture, so that the fabric feels soft.
  • this fabric is suitable for use in trousers, but unsuitable for woman's dresses or jackets where a soft feel is required.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a filament corduroy fabric which has the drapability, elasticity, tensile strength, friction fastness and wash shrinkage peculiar to filaments, and also a soft feel caused by an ultrafine microfiber, so that it can be used in a far wider range of applications than the prior staple corduroy fabric.
  • the filament yarn is woven into a conventional corduroy texture to produce a grey fabric, and then the grey fabric is subjected to a shrinking process to form a given space between a bottom yarn and a pile yarn, so that a knife can be smoothly passed between the bottom yarn and the pile yarn, and miss cutting does not occur, whereby a corduroy fabric with excellent properties can be manufactured.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a method capable of manufacturing a corduroy fabric with an excellent drapability, the improved elasticity, tensile strength, friction fastness and wash shrinkage, and a soft feel, in a simple manner.
  • Warp/weft which are used in manufacturing the corduroy fabric according to the present invention are made of polyester filament/polyester filament, polyester filament/filament such as nylon-polyester (NP) split yarn, or filament/staple fiber.
  • the filament is preferably made of at least one selected from the group consisting of a microfiber, an ultrafine microfiber, a NP split yarn, a sea-island yarn, a drawn yarn, an undrawn yarn (UDY), a partially oriented yarn (POY), a flat yarn (FY), and a draw textured yarn (DTY), and has less than 1 denier monofilament.
  • the fabric will have a stiff feel and a rough surface, and thus a soft feel cannot be obtained.
  • the microfiber or the ultrafine microfiber has an excellent soft feel
  • the sea-island yarn has a soft feels and also special gloss and suede effects
  • the drawn yarn has a dull suede effect, and thus, they are very suitable filaments for a corduroy fabric.
  • the filament yarn is subjected to the conventional corduroy-manufacturing processes, including false twisting, sizing, weaving, cutting, dyeing and finishing processes, but a shrinking process of a grey fabric is additionally performed after the weaving process but before the cutting process without conducting a separate brushing process, so as to form a given space between a bottom yarn and a pile yarn, such that a cutting knife can be smoothly passed between the bottom yarn and the pile yarn.
  • cutting speed can be adjusted, and a specially-made knife for corduroy can be used.
  • the miss cutting of the pile yarn does not occur.
  • a filament yarn such as a microfiber filament yarn with less than 1 denier monofilament obtained by spinning a general polyester chip in the conventional method, a nylon-polyester (NP) split yarn obtained by spinning a nylon/polyester conjugate, a partially oriented yarn (POY), a draw textured yarn (DTY), an undrawn yarn (UDY), a flat yarn (FY), or a sea-island yarn, is subjected to false twisting to make it bulky and crimping. Then, after the warp is starched and dried to improve weaving efficiency, the filament yarn is woven into a conventional corduroy texture to form a grey fabric.
  • NP nylon-polyester
  • POY partially oriented yarn
  • DTY draw textured yarn
  • UTY undrawn yarn
  • FY flat yarn
  • sea-island yarn sea-island yarn
  • the grey fabric Before cutting the pile yarn of the woven corduroy texture, the grey fabric is subjected to a shrinking process such that a given space between the bottom yarn and the pile yarn can be formed. Then, the pile yarn is cut with a specially made knife, and the resulting fabric is dyed and finished, thereby producing a filament corduroy fabric of the present invention. Moreover, in producing the corduroy fabric to the present invention, the miss cutting of the pile yarn does not occur, and the produced corduroy fabric has the drapability, elasticity and soft feel peculiar to the filament and thus can be used in a far wider range of applications than the existing staple corduroy fabric.
  • a DTY yarn as a wrap, and a DTY split yarn as a weft were subjected to the conventional corduroy-manufacturing processes, including false twisting, sizing, weaving, cutting, dyeing and finishing processes.
  • the grey fabric was subjected to a shrinking process without being subjected to a separate brushing process.
  • an 8-wale filament corduroy fabric was produced and measured for its physical properties. The measured results are given in Table 1.
  • the grey fabric was subjected to a shrinking process without being subjected to a separate brushing process.
  • a 20-wale elastic corduroy fabric was produced and measured for its physical properties. The measured results are given in Table 1.
  • Cotton yarns as warp and weft were subjected to the conventional corduroy-manufacturing processes, including false twisting, sizing, weaving, cutting, dyeing and finishing processes.
  • an 8-wale cotton corduroy fabric was manufactured and measured for its physical properties. The measured results are given in Table 1.
  • Cotton yarns as warp and weft were subjected to the conventional corduroy-manufacturing processes, including false twisting, sizing, weaving, cutting, dyeing and finishing processes.
  • a 20-wale cotton elastic corduroy fabric was manufactured and measured for its physical properties. The measured results are given in Table 1.
  • Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 2 Tensile strength (warp; kg) 78.3 36.1 105.5 39.1 Tensile strength (weft; kg) 56.7 25.9 48.8 31.9 Wash shrinkage (warp; %) 0.4 0.8 0.1 -0.6 Wash shrinkage (weft; %) 0.1 0.8 -0.4 -0.6 Friction fastness (dry) 4.5 3.5 4 3.5 Friction fastness (wet) 4 1 4 1.5 Handling Soft Stiff Soft Stiff Drapability High Middle High Middle Elasticity High Middle High Middle
  • the filament corduroy fabric manufactured according to the present invention was excellent in all properties, including tensile strength, wash shrinkage, friction fastness, handling, drapability and elasticity, as compared to the existing staple (cotton) corduroy fabric.
  • the present invention provides the filament corduroy fabric, which has the improved tensile strength, wash shrinkage, friction fastness, drapability, elasticity and soft handling, as compared to the existing staple corduroy fabric using cotton as a staple.
  • the filament corduroy fabric of the present invention can be used in a far wider range of applications than the existing staple corduroy fabric.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP03293352A 2003-04-03 2003-12-31 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Filamentpolgewebes Withdrawn EP1464744A3 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1020030021086A KR20030036445A (ko) 2003-04-03 2003-04-03 장섬유 코듀로이 직물의 제조방법
KR2003021086 2003-04-03

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1464744A2 true EP1464744A2 (de) 2004-10-06
EP1464744A3 EP1464744A3 (de) 2005-02-02

Family

ID=29579161

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP03293352A Withdrawn EP1464744A3 (de) 2003-04-03 2003-12-31 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Filamentpolgewebes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1464744A3 (de)
KR (2) KR20030036445A (de)
CN (1) CN1536115A (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150159307A1 (en) * 2013-12-11 2015-06-11 New Horizon Elastic Fabric Co., Ltd Fabric strap with emulated velvet surface

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100737975B1 (ko) * 2005-09-08 2007-07-13 주식회사 새 한 장섬유 벨벳직물 및 그의 제조 방법
KR100676907B1 (ko) * 2005-12-07 2007-02-01 주식회사 에스엠 인터내셔날 파일직물의 파일 직립 성형방법 및 성형장치
KR100746217B1 (ko) * 2006-09-02 2007-08-03 송진달 트리코트 코듀로이직물의 제조방법
CN103422231B (zh) * 2012-05-17 2016-06-08 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种弹力灯芯绒织物及其生产方法和应用
KR101645252B1 (ko) * 2016-01-28 2016-08-04 정용수 형태안정성이 향상된 파일원단 및 그의 제조방법
KR101968302B1 (ko) * 2017-09-07 2019-04-12 배재대학교 산학협력단 복합 기능성 직물 및 그 제조방법
CN107815766A (zh) * 2017-09-08 2018-03-20 桐昆集团股份有限公司 一种轻盈雪纺纱的生产方法及应用
KR102885044B1 (ko) * 2023-06-21 2025-11-13 (주)아코플레닝 천연가죽 재생사를 포함하는 파일원단

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2238098A (en) * 1938-07-28 1941-04-15 Du Pont Fabric
JPS564768A (en) * 1979-06-19 1981-01-19 Unitika Ltd Production of velvet having soccar like crepe
JPS588156A (ja) * 1981-07-08 1983-01-18 東レ株式会社 ビロ−ド調合成繊維織物の製造方法
JPS59106566A (ja) * 1982-12-07 1984-06-20 帝人株式会社 極細カツトパイル織編物の製造方法
JPH10259543A (ja) * 1997-03-17 1998-09-29 Toyobo Co Ltd 立毛パイル布帛

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150159307A1 (en) * 2013-12-11 2015-06-11 New Horizon Elastic Fabric Co., Ltd Fabric strap with emulated velvet surface

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR20030036445A (ko) 2003-05-09
CN1536115A (zh) 2004-10-13
KR20040086741A (ko) 2004-10-12
EP1464744A3 (de) 2005-02-02

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