EP1284108A2 - Procédé de fabrication d'une cravate et cravate obtenue - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'une cravate et cravate obtenue Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1284108A2
EP1284108A2 EP02018015A EP02018015A EP1284108A2 EP 1284108 A2 EP1284108 A2 EP 1284108A2 EP 02018015 A EP02018015 A EP 02018015A EP 02018015 A EP02018015 A EP 02018015A EP 1284108 A2 EP1284108 A2 EP 1284108A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
tie
interlining
fabric
composite
parts
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02018015A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1284108A3 (fr
Inventor
Matthias Te Neues
Klaus Korting
Dirk Gillmann
Hans-Jürgen Preuss
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hansel Textil GmbH
Schaefer & Te Neues
Original Assignee
Hansel Textil GmbH
Schaefer & Te Neues
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hansel Textil GmbH, Schaefer & Te Neues filed Critical Hansel Textil GmbH
Publication of EP1284108A2 publication Critical patent/EP1284108A2/fr
Publication of EP1284108A3 publication Critical patent/EP1284108A3/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00—Neckties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00—Neckties
    • A41D25/001—Making neckties

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a tie, in which A interlining is connected to a tie fabric by at least one the tie fabric is cut to size with at least two parts, the parts of the blank are sewn together by at least one cross seam the raw tie, i.e.
  • the sewn parts, if necessary on both Tips are provided with lining parts, and by a longitudinal seam to one tubular tie is sewn together and the tie on right is turned and ironed and a corresponding tie with one an interlining fabric connected to a tie fabric with at least two parts of one Cut at least from the tie fabric, in which the parts of the cut sewn together by at least one transverse seam, if necessary at both tips of the sewn together parts with lining parts, and by a longitudinal seam are sewn together in a tube and ironed from the right.
  • the shape of the tie has an inlay attached to a longitudinal seam.
  • Such a tie is made by first of the tie fabric at least two parts, usually two or three parts, one at an angle to the course of the thread Cut and from the interlining fabric an inlay whose shape is slightly smaller than that of the finished tie, and lining parts for the tips of the tie be tailored. Then the parts of the blank are made Tie fabric sewn together by at least one cross seam and on the ironed out the transverse seams on the left side. At the tips of the raw tie, i.e. the parts sewn together, the lining parts are sewn on the left side and ironed the tips if necessary.
  • DE-A 42 03 181 describes a generic method for producing a Tie, in which an interlining is combined with a tie fabric, and a generic tie known.
  • a knitted Intermediate fabric in the same shape and dimensions as the Tie fabric cut and after sewing the two parts of the Tie fabric cutting and ironing the executed seam (cross seam) on the left side of the tie fabric fastened by heat. After sewing the middle seam (longitudinal seam) this is ironed out and fastened. That at this procedure is the execution of the seams specifically to the Manufacturing process adapted.
  • Only tie fabric is used for the cross seam sewn together. Both seams are ironed out and fixed, the fixation the cross seam is made by attaching the interlining.
  • Such a manufacturing process for a tie has the difficulty that Attachment of the intermediate fabric to the left side of the tie fabric of the raw tie the intermediate fabric exactly on the sewn parts of the raw tie must be hung up. Through this and through ironing and fastening the middle seam is more expensive than a conventional one Production method. There is also washing one after this Process manufactured tie the risk that the intermediate material adheres to the Seam allowances of the ironed cross seam of the sewn together parts of the Tie fabric cut loosens. This can lead to the tie being worn repeated washing can no longer be brought into shape and thus theirs Dimensional stability loses.
  • the object of the invention is a generic method for producing a Develop a tie and a generic tie, the manufacture the tie simplified and the shape retention of the tie after the Washing is improved.
  • the manufacturing step Cutting the interlining completely saved. Also the exact placement of the Insert blank on the raw tie, i.e. the sewn together parts of the Tie fabric cut, omitted.
  • the production of a composite before cutting can be done on a larger scale on a technical scale and thus carried out more cost-effectively and technically better are used as attaching a fabric blank to sewn together Part of a tie fabric cut with ironed cross seams.
  • the Production of a composite material according to the invention essentially enables more durable connections between the tie fabric and the interlining than one Attaching an interlining blank to sewn-together parts of one Tie fabric placement.
  • Another advantage of using composite is that it is better than one Tie fabric can be processed.
  • the production of the blank and the Seaming is easier because the composite is more resistant to sliding.
  • the The strength of the seams is higher.
  • the creases extend along the edges of the tie over their entire length or at least almost over their entire length.
  • the composite is deformed during ironing by compared to known ironing, for example in a flat ironing device, one or more of the sizes, temperature of the ironing device, internal pressure, Contact pressure and, preferably, the exposure time, is increased slightly.
  • one like that manufactured tie e.g. when washing, wrinkled, so find subsequently the tie is automatically reshaped into the shape fixed by ironing instead of.
  • Ties made of composite materials according to the invention are preferred interlinings used with a high crease recovery angle, resulting in a high Dimensional stability of the tie is achieved.
  • a tie manufactured according to a method according to the invention Claim 17 from a composite of washable tie fabric and washable interlining is washable without the interlining from Tie fabric loosens and without warping or twisting.
  • the tie keeps its shape even after washing and is again without ironing usable.
  • ironing steam can be used according to claim 2. Ironing with Steam, i.e. with the supply of heated steam, in itself is in the Known manufacture of ties. To create the crease in the composite When using steam, the steam temperature and Vapor pressure can be increased. By using steam, the ironing folds can more trained and / or the exposure time can be reduced.
  • the tie fabric and the interlining fabric are in the full range of the Tie fabric to a composite by gluing, needling, sewing, ultrasound or high-frequency welding connected together.
  • the flat Laminated composites are particularly suitable for production washable ties.
  • An interlining with a coating of grid-like, thermoplastic coating points according to claim 6, ie through spaced circular surfaces, for example with fine points with a diameter of about 0.3 to 0.5 mm, made of thermoplastic material, is particularly good for producing a Composite with a tie fabric suitable.
  • a composite material in which the connection between the tie fabric and the interlining is made by means of grid-shaped, thermoplastic coating points the look and feel of the tie fabric are retained.
  • the tie fabric side is not, or at least not visibly, changed by the coating points attached to the left side (rear side) of the tie fabric, also called adhesive spots, since the choice of the diameter of the coating spots and the number of coating spots per cm 2 enables an optimal adaptation to the tie fabric is possible. Points with a larger point diameter are arranged in a smaller grid and those with smaller point diameters are arranged in a larger grid.
  • the coating points can be in the form of microdots with more than 100 coating points per cm 2 , for example in a grid of 25 or 30 mesh with 120 or 160 points per cm 2 , and correspondingly small diameters, in the form of fine points with 50 to 100 coating points per cm 2 , for example in a grid of 17 or 21 mesh with 52 or 76 points per cm 2 , and diameters of for example approx. 0.5 or 0.3 mm or in the form of coarse points with 50 to 20 coating points per cm 2 , for example in a grid of 15 or 11 with 35 or 22 points per cm 2 , and correspondingly larger diameters.
  • Micropoints are particularly well suited for coating the interlinings for very fine tie fabrics, fine dots for many of the common tie fabrics and coarse dots for example for coarse wool tie fabrics.
  • the grid-like arrangement of the coating points can be designed as a linear arrangement or as a random arrangement.
  • the coating points can be designed as simple powder points or preferably as paste points. Single points are used with closed interlinings, for example with dense fabrics, knitted fabrics or nonwovens.
  • the colon coating of the interlining can be designed in such a way that on an inner, thin, thermosetting base layer, an outer, flat one sits thermoplastic layer, the outer layer after the Laminating process thanks to its delicacy the tie fabric side of the composite unaffected.
  • Coating points designed as colons are especially for open interlinings, i.e. loose fabrics, knitted fabrics or fleeces suitable.
  • the outer thermoplastic layer can e.g. made of polyamide or copolyamide consist.
  • the inner base layer can be made of a thermosetting material or also from a thermoplastic material with a higher melting point or lower melt index than the thermoplastic material of the outer layer consist.
  • the base layer prevents thermoplastic material when laminating strikes back, i.e. that thermoplastic material through the interlining on the uncoated side of the interlining material flows and possibly other Treatments at higher temperatures or ironing processes for gluing, z. B. with lining parts leads.
  • the tie fabric side retains, even with light ones Tie fabrics, the original structure of the surface of the tie fabric. The look and feel of the tie fabric are retained.
  • a method of making a colon coated Interlining is e.g. known from EP-B 0 731 151.
  • tie fabrics e.g. Jacquard are woven or printed and made of synthetic man-made fibers, such as Polyester, from cellulosic man-made fibers, such as viscose, from silk or from Mixtures of these materials with each other or with other native fibers, such as Wool or cotton are used.
  • synthetic man-made fibers such as Polyester
  • cellulosic man-made fibers such as viscose
  • silk or from Mixtures of these materials with each other or with other native fibers such as Wool or cotton are used.
  • interlining for a composite is of a type and type Depending on the severity of the tie fabric. It will also depend on what you want influences the external appearance of the tie. Is a rather voluminous looking tie is desired, so more voluminous, possibly heavier Interlinings used. If a rather delicate-looking tie is desired, then so lighter, flatter interlining fabrics are used.
  • Examples 1 to 3 of composites described are for the preparation of a suitable for ties with little volume.
  • Insert materials made of synthetic are preferred according to claim 8
  • Man-made fibers e.g. made of polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic or mixtures thereof, especially made of mixed fibers made of polyester and polyamide.
  • the interlinings have a high elasticity and thus high Crease recovery angles and show strong self-smoothing effects that are reflected on transfer the composite.
  • These interlinings enable the production of Ties with a particularly high dimensional stability, especially with a strong tendency to reform after deformations e.g. B. by binding, by Wash or in high humidity.
  • Fabrics with a basis weight of 40 to 120 g / m 2 according to claim 10 can be used particularly well for the production of composite materials with all the usual tie fabrics, such as printing fabrics or jacquard fabrics, with a basis weight of 70 to 190 g / m 2 .
  • Fabrics in particular those with a coating with colons according to claim 7, are particularly well suited for the production of composites with jacquard tie fabrics with launches that change in quick succession due to the good adhesion of these coated fabrics.
  • Lighter fabrics for example with a basis weight of 70 g / m 2 , are used for this purpose.
  • the warp or weft threads textured, synthetic man-made fibers can exist.
  • the Warp and weft threads of the textured synthetic synthetic fibers which makes the fabrics elastic in both directions, warp and weft are.
  • Interlining fabrics made of a fabric, the uncoated side of which 12 has a roughened surface can improve the grip of the tie make them appear more voluminous.
  • Elastic interlinings with a roughened surface are e.g. in DE-A 199 04 265 described; the roughening process is also called the peach skin process.
  • Knitted fabrics made of the above-mentioned synthetic, optionally textured chemical fibers, which are designed as warp knitted fabrics with weft insertion, Raschel knitted fabrics or knitted knitted fabrics, can be used as interlinings.
  • the use of knitted fabrics according to claim 13 with a basis weight of 25 to 120 g / m 2 enables less expensive composites and thus less expensive ties.
  • Nonwovens can be used as interlinings, with all nonwovens under the term nonwovens according to ISO 11224: 1993 are to be understood from the above synthetic, if necessary, textured chemical fibers can be used.
  • the fleeces can be thermal be bound, i.e. be formed as a thermobond fleece. You can also use it as a Needle fleece can be formed.
  • nonwovens with a basis weight of 25 to 90 g / m 2 according to claim 15 enables particularly inexpensive composites and inexpensive ties made therefrom.
  • Nonwovens are particularly well suited for the production of composites with heavy tie fabrics.
  • Water jet nonwovens are particularly suitable, in particular as pilling resistant designated water jet fleece, in which the formation of fine Fiber beads are suppressed by friction. Water jet fleeces stand out through good crease recovery values.
  • the invention is illustrated schematically in the drawing Example of a tie according to the invention and based on three material examples further explained.
  • Figures 1 and 2 is a raw tie and a tie together with Templates shown, wherein Figure 1 is a longitudinal section through the tie above the templates and Figure 2 with a cross section through the tie Show template. Since the view in Figure 1 from above of the templates and the part of the tie that falls below is the part above the tie Longitudinal seam is not visible, it is dashed located.
  • FIG. 3 a cross section corresponding to FIG. 2 is without Template and in Figure 4 an enlarged section of the composite with a Colon shown.
  • a method for producing a tie according to the invention in which an interlining material is connected to a tie fabric, is first a Composite made of a tie fabric and an interlining.
  • the three parts 1, 2, 3 are made by two transverse seams 4, 5 sewn together and the sewn parts 1, 2, 3 on their two Tips 6, 7 on the interlining material side B of the composite with lining parts 8, 9 provided and by a longitudinal seam 10 to a tubular tie closed.
  • the interlining material side B of the composite is on the outside.
  • the course of the transverse seams 4, 5 and the longitudinal seam 10 is shown in FIG dashed lines and the ends of the Lining parts 8, 9 shown by dotted lines.
  • tie is turned to the right so that the Tie fabric side A of the composite is on the outside.
  • one flat Ironing device with steam addition is a temperature at the base of the device e.g. 150 ° C to 160 ° C, a vapor pressure of e.g. 5 bar leading to a Steam temperature of approx. 160 ° C, and an exposure time of e.g. 2 to 10 s, in particular from 4 to 5 s.
  • the exposure time in this example is 1 to 2 s longer than with steaming without embossing of creases 13, 14 arise briefly in the crease 13, 14, i.e. on the edges of the tie, Temperatures of e.g. approx. 110 to 120 ° C.
  • the exposure time becomes all the shorter selected, the higher the temperature and the higher the vapor pressure.
  • the one there The pressure exerted corresponds to the pressure of when steaming ties 1.4 to 1.5 bar, e.g. 1.4 bar.
  • the steaming conditions are based on the respective Composites matched.
  • the stencils 11, 12 are spaced a short distance apart into the Tie inserted.
  • the templates 11, 12 can Touch steam in the tie.
  • a cut from two parts or, in special cases, from more can be used as three parts.
  • transverse seams 4, 5 nor the longitudinal seam 10 are ironed out.
  • alternative such ironing can take place.
  • a tie fabric and an interlining fabric are laminated with a coating of thermoplastic material, that is to say they are connected over a large area.
  • the coating has grid points on the interlining which are designed as colons, ie which consist of an inner thermosetting layer 15 located directly on the interlining and an outer thermoplastic layer 16 located thereon.
  • the colons are designed as fine points. They can have a diameter of, for example 0.3 mm with a grid of 21 mesh, ie approx. 76 dots / cm 2 , and of 0.5 mm with a grid 17 mesh, ie approx. 52 dots / cm 2 .
  • a tie fabric web When laminating, a tie fabric web is combined with one coated interlining certain lamination parameters, i.e. a increased temperature and pressure for a period of time, exposed, with the left side of the tie fabric on the coated side of the interlining.
  • the fabric panels are, for example, with the help of a Print ribbon led around a printing roller.
  • the pressure of the pressure roller is e.g. 2 bar.
  • the external temperature is e.g. 130 ° to 140 ° C, resulting in a Joint temperature between tie and interlining of about 120 ° C leads.
  • This treatment leads to a functional connection of the tie fabric with the interlining with a high separation resistance.
  • the lamination parameters are designed in such a way that no or only slight changes on the surface of the Tie fabric occur.
  • tie fabrics that are only exposed to temperatures below 100 ° C can be interlining with a coating that is used in a Glue joint temperature below 100 ° C, used.
  • a tie according to the invention has a blank made of a composite a tie fabric side A and an interlining fabric side B of three parts 1, 2, 3 on, the three parts 1, 2, 3 being sewn together by two transverse seams 4, 5 their tips 6, 7 are provided with lining parts 8, 9 and by a longitudinal seam 10 are closed to the tubular tie.
  • the tie has creases 13, 14 on its lateral edges.
  • the composite consists of a tie fabric and an interlining, whereby the left side of the tie fabric with an outer, thermoplastic layer of arranged on the interlining, arranged in a grid Coating points is connected.
  • the coating points are as Colons with an additional to the outer, thermoplastic layer 16 existing inner thermosetting layer applied to the interlining 15 trained.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
EP02018015A 2001-08-16 2002-08-12 Procédé de fabrication d'une cravate et cravate obtenue Withdrawn EP1284108A3 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2001139174 DE10139174C1 (de) 2001-08-16 2001-08-16 Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Krawatte und Krawatte
DE10139174 2001-08-16

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1284108A2 true EP1284108A2 (fr) 2003-02-19
EP1284108A3 EP1284108A3 (fr) 2004-05-26

Family

ID=7694929

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP02018015A Withdrawn EP1284108A3 (fr) 2001-08-16 2002-08-12 Procédé de fabrication d'une cravate et cravate obtenue

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EP (1) EP1284108A3 (fr)
DE (1) DE10139174C1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20230210203A1 (en) * 2020-08-05 2023-07-06 Jong Pyo HONG Three-fold tie with body folded twice by gatefold

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1600802A (en) * 1925-04-23 1926-09-21 Julius Kayser & Co Necktie
US1782183A (en) * 1926-05-17 1930-11-18 Freydberg Bros Inc Tie, tie piece goods, and method of making
US3358291A (en) * 1965-11-04 1967-12-19 Davidowitz Herman Method for manufacture of neckties
GB1372486A (en) * 1971-11-12 1974-10-30 Kufner Textilwerke Kg Lined tie
DE4203181A1 (de) * 1991-10-16 1993-04-22 Hernandez Pedro Joaquin Garcia Verfahren zur krawattenherstellung
US5759626A (en) * 1995-03-10 1998-06-02 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Process for the raster-formed coating of web-shaped flexible flat articles with hot-melt adhesives

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1747008U (de) * 1957-02-18 1957-06-19 Ver Seidenwebereien Ag Krawatte.
DE3039878C2 (de) * 1980-10-22 1986-09-25 Krawattenfabrik Sepp Halbritter GmbH, 8731 Fuchsstadt Verfahren zum Herstellen von Krawatten
DE29514284U1 (de) * 1995-09-06 1995-10-26 Baldus Franz Diether Vorrichtung zum Aufspannen von Krawatten, insbesondere beim Bemalen und Trocknen
DE19904265C2 (de) * 1999-02-03 2001-02-22 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastische Einlage, Verfahren zu deren Herstellung und Verwendung

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1600802A (en) * 1925-04-23 1926-09-21 Julius Kayser & Co Necktie
US1782183A (en) * 1926-05-17 1930-11-18 Freydberg Bros Inc Tie, tie piece goods, and method of making
US3358291A (en) * 1965-11-04 1967-12-19 Davidowitz Herman Method for manufacture of neckties
GB1372486A (en) * 1971-11-12 1974-10-30 Kufner Textilwerke Kg Lined tie
DE4203181A1 (de) * 1991-10-16 1993-04-22 Hernandez Pedro Joaquin Garcia Verfahren zur krawattenherstellung
US5759626A (en) * 1995-03-10 1998-06-02 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Process for the raster-formed coating of web-shaped flexible flat articles with hot-melt adhesives

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20230210203A1 (en) * 2020-08-05 2023-07-06 Jong Pyo HONG Three-fold tie with body folded twice by gatefold

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE10139174C1 (de) 2003-06-18
EP1284108A3 (fr) 2004-05-26

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