EP1240368B1 - Procede et dispositif ameliores permettant d'etirer des fragments de fibres animales - Google Patents

Procede et dispositif ameliores permettant d'etirer des fragments de fibres animales Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1240368B1
EP1240368B1 EP00975027A EP00975027A EP1240368B1 EP 1240368 B1 EP1240368 B1 EP 1240368B1 EP 00975027 A EP00975027 A EP 00975027A EP 00975027 A EP00975027 A EP 00975027A EP 1240368 B1 EP1240368 B1 EP 1240368B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sliver
stretching
stretching zone
fibres
wool
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP00975027A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1240368A2 (fr
EP1240368A4 (fr
Inventor
Jack David Watt
Cornelis Jan Van Luijk
Julian Mark Watson
Gail Louise Krsinic
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Wool Research Organization of New Zealand Inc
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Wool Research Organization of New Zealand Inc
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Publication date
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Publication of EP1240368A2 publication Critical patent/EP1240368A2/fr
Publication of EP1240368A4 publication Critical patent/EP1240368A4/fr
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Publication of EP1240368B1 publication Critical patent/EP1240368B1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01H—SPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H5/00—Drafting machines or arrangements ; Threading of roving into drafting machine
    • D01H5/18—Drafting machines or arrangements without fallers or like pinned bars
    • D01H5/28—Drafting machines or arrangements without fallers or like pinned bars in which fibres are controlled by inserting twist during drafting

Definitions

  • the invention relates to animal fibre processing. More particularly, although not exclusively, the invention relates to an improved process and apparatus for modifying the diameter, length and crimp of wool and animal fibres. The modifications may be temporary or permanent depending on the process conditions selected.
  • Fibres which have high shrinkage have various applications known to the textile industry. They are used as a component of 'high-bulk' yarns for knitting, that is yarns which have an unusually large ratio of volume to mass. They are also used to make high shrinkage yarns which are mixed with yarns of low or zero shrinkage in woven fabrics to produce cockled effects, such as seersucker. They may also be used to produce yarns of high shrinkage which form some of the tufts in a pile fabric, such as carpet, so that the difference in shrinkage between the tufts of high and low shrinkage will produce high and low pile or long and short tufts in order to form a visual pattern.
  • the potential shrinkage of fibres for these purposes can be realised by a simple and inexpensive process, such as steaming.
  • a method of producing fibre of high shrinkage potential is to stretch thermoplastic fibre while it is hot and relatively plastic, to cool it while it is still held in an extended state and thereby stabilise it. Since the fibre is not completely plastic but is visco-elastic during the hot-stretch process, some elastic strain energy is created within the molecular structure of the fibre, but this energy is not sufficient to overcome the relative immobility of the structure after cooling and so cause shrinkage. When the fibre is subsequently heated, the structure of the fibre becomes more mobile and the 'latent' elastic strain energy is enabled to cause shrinkage.
  • the most common application of this method is in the production of high shrink acrylic fibres which are blended during textile processing with fibres of much lower shrinkage, usually also acrylic fibres, to produce knitting yarns of high bulk due to a differential shrinkage effect.
  • the blended yarn shrinks, fibres having low shrinkage characteristics are caused to buckle or to form helices of increased radius in the twisted yarn structure so as to increase the volume of the yarn.
  • the mass of a longitudinal element of the yarn is increased as a result of the shrinkage, the volume is increased to a greater degree, thus causing the desired increase in the ratio of volume to mass.
  • Lighter weight garments can be produced as a result of this technique.
  • the hot-stretching process used to create the high shrinkage potential is carried out on the acrylic fibre while it is still in continuous filament form.
  • Techniques to stretch and temporarily set continuous filament tows are known to the industry.
  • the words 'temporarily set' refer to filaments which are stabilised in an extended condition such that the filament has a potential shrinkage which can be realised by a subsequent treatment such as steam relaxation.
  • the word 'tow' refers to a substantially twist-free bundle of parallel filaments, usually several thousand in number.
  • the continuous filaments are then usually converted to discontinuous staple fibres for further textile processing into yarn.
  • the difficulty of stretching and temporarily setting fibres such as wool, which do not occur in continuous filament form and are not thermoplastic has until recently prevented the industry from applying the concept of stretch and temporarily setting to wool and animal fibres.
  • Finer wool fibres are generally valued more highly. They can be spun to finer yarns than coarser fibres, which permits lighter weight fabrics to be made, and they feel softer to the touch. It is therefore not surprising that the patents described above in the context of the stretch with temporary set, also provide methods of stretching with permanent set, in order to effect a reduction in fibre diameter which is substantially unaffected by steam or water.
  • the wool textile industry has available well-known technology based on chemical reduction of disulphide bonds within the fibre, followed by manipulation or constraint of the textile material to the desired shape or configuration (eg, flat fabric, pleated fabric, twisted yarn) and finally followed by an oxidation treatment to reverse the initial reduction cleavage of the disulphide bonds.
  • These treatments are usually known in the wool textile industry as "permanent setting" treatments.
  • the invention provides for a method of creating a transient equivalent of thermoplasticity in wool or animal fibres, such that they can be extended by substantial amounts without breaking and without requiring to be at high moisture regain or chemically treated to increase plasticity.
  • the invention provides a process for continuously stretching and temporarily or permanently setting wool or animal fibres in sliver form, including the steps of: a) passing sliver along a sliver path through a stretching zone; b) generating false twist in sliver in the stretching zone; c) stretching sliver in the stretching zone by applying a tension thereto; characterised in that the sliver path is a substantially straight line path through the stretching zone, between feed rollers (3) and an entrance of a single haul pulley unit (5), the false twist being generated by the haul pulley unit (5) and being freely propagated along sliver in the stretching zone; and in that the method includes rapidly heating sliver and reducing moisture regain of sliver in at least part of the stretching zone using a microwave field (4).
  • the invention provides an apparatus for continuously stretching and temporarily or permanently setting wool or animal fibres in sliver form, including: a) a single haul pulley unit (5) imparting false twist to sliver in a stretching zone, and applying stretching tension to sliver in the stretching zone; b) a microwave drier (4) which rapidly increases the temperature and reduces the regain of sliver in at least part of the stretching zone; and c) feed rollers (3), the feed rollers and an entrance of the haul pulley unit defining a substantially straight line sliver path through the stretching zone.
  • the scope of the invention further includes:
  • the fibre length may be increased or decreased and the lustre of the fibre may be increased.
  • the invention provides for a process for stretching and temporary setting of animal fibres comprising:
  • an improved process for continuously stretching and temporarily setting wool or other animal fibres and thus providing fibres having high shrinkage potential which can conveniently be realised in a steam relaxation treatment or in a water relaxation treatment.
  • the processes further comprise the step of using a combined false twisting and traction providing haul pulley flyer downstream of the energy applicator and outside of the energy application zone such that the path of the sliver through the energy applicator is substantially straight.
  • the process further comprises the application of microwave or radio frequency, but preferably microwave, energy, to heat the sliver throughout its thickness very rapidly.
  • a moisture regain of 19 to 25%, more preferably 20 to 23% is used and is obtained by passing "dry” (ie, approximately in equilibrium with ambient air) sliver or top, through a steam tube so designed as not to deposit droplets of condensed steam on the fibre.
  • dry ie, approximately in equilibrium with ambient air
  • a reduction in moisture regain to 10 to 15%, more preferably 12 to 14% is effected so as to effect temporary setting.
  • the present invention also provides for a process for stretching and temporary setting of animal fibres comprising achieving a mobile plastic fibre state at moderate, preferably 19 to 25%, moisture regain, by increasing the fibre temperature rapidly to a level above the glass transition temperature at that level of regain by means of a linear microwave or radio frequency heater located in a straight zone in which the sliver is plasticised, stretched and then progressively dried as it passes along the straight zone.
  • Microwave driers are well known in various industries and exist in many forms intended to optimise performance for particular applications. One such refined version is described in USP 4,908,486 having maximised resonance.
  • the form used in this invention is not critical or refined, being a simple microwave energy generator and a linear tubular waveguide through which the sliver passes.
  • the present invention provides for a single modified haul pulley flyer adapted to cause a sliver to exit the flyer along the axis of rotation, and which is located downstream of a stretching and drying zone such that the sliver path is substantially straight from feed rolls to the flyer.
  • the straight sliver path facilitates use of a linear heater and equalisation of sliver torque throughout the stretch zone.
  • the microwave or radio frequency heating can be augmented by the passage of warm air through the tubular cavity of the heater, in order to carry away evaporated moisture.
  • Prior art methods of heating include creating an atmosphere of steam around the sliver, as described in PCT WO 91/0283. This requires much longer periods of time to heat the core of sliver which is in a twisted, tensioned and therefore dense condition. Heat applied to the surface of such a strand requires substantial time to diffuse to the core. It is possible therefore, by the use of a microwave or radio frequency heater, to create an environment within and throughout the radial extent of the twisted sliver of high temperature approaching or even exceeding 100 °C together with a moisture content which has not yet substantially changed from its original or input level.
  • the invention provides a process which enables the object of stretching and temporary setting to be achieved with a regain change of only 7 to 10% which minimises energy consumption.
  • the mobile plastic state can be achieved at moderate levels of moisture regain, 19 to 25%, by increasing the fibre temperature to a level above the glass transition temperature at that level of regain.
  • Most methods of heating reduce the regain by evaporation which increases the glass transition temperature.
  • Microwave of radio frequency heating enables the temperature in the dense false twisted sliver to be raised very rapidly and crucially before significant evaporation and drying has occurred. Thus is created a transient state in which the wool sliver of moderate moisture regain is rendered plastic and amenable to high levels of stretch.
  • the only known alternative means of achieving this state of plasticity in the interior of a twisted dense sliver under tension at such low levels of moisture regain is to soak the twisted dense sliver in steam for a lengthy dwell time.
  • the present invention by using microwave or radio frequency heating, permits the same state to be achieved very rapidly and in the absence of an externally applied steam atmosphere.
  • the invention permits the wool sliver to pass in a substantially straight path, without the need to pass around pulleys or guides, through the entire zone in which it is plasticised, stretched, partially dried, cooled and temporarily set.
  • This straight path has three advantages:
  • stages of a process according to the present invention can be as follows:
  • Figure 5 is shown a general arrangement of parts for an example of stretch apparatus.
  • a sliver 7 is supplied from a creel 1 to a pre-steamer 2 to squeeze rollers 3.
  • the sliver 7 then passes in a false-twisted state through microwave dryer 4 to the haul pulley flyer 5.
  • the sliver is then collected by any suitable collection means such as a can coiler 6.
  • a further application of the process and apparatus disclosed is to supply the stretch-set apparatus with sliver which has been pre-plasticised by a chemical reductive treatment, known to the industry, such that a greater degree of permanence of set is achieved.
  • a further increase in degree of set can be achieved by increasing the distance between the microwave or radio frequency heater and the haul pulley flyer and optionally surrounding the sliver with a steam atmosphere.
  • Yet a further increase in degree of set or permanence of stretch may be achieved by an oxidising after-treatment, for example with hydrogen peroxide solution, known to the industry for this application, or a cross-linking treatment, for example with formaldehyde, known to the industry for this application.
  • a sliver of 28.6 micron wool was treated with 10% sodium metabisulphite solution at 85°C and then squeezed in nip rolls as it entered the stretch zone of the process such that the moisture regain was reduced to approximately 60%. It was stretched by 65% and at the same time dried as it passed through a tubular microwave oven, so that it emerged from the stretch zone with a moisture regain of approximately 8%.
  • the diameter and crimp curvature of the fibre after steam relaxation as measured by the OFDA method (Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser, IWTO Test Method 47) were as follows. The fibre length (Almeter method) and the yellowness (Y-Z) are also shown. Diameter (micron) Curvature (°/mm) Fibre length (barbe mm) Yellowness (Y-Z) Untreated 28.6 66 97 5.8 Stretched 24.2 29 118 3.2
  • the stretched fibre was finer and had lower crimp curvature, increased fibre length and reduced yellowness (ie, it had a whiter colour).
  • a sliver similar to that described in Example 1 was pre-treated with metabisulphite in the same conditions. It was squeezed and stretched in the same conditions as in Example 1, with the important exception that less microwave power was supplied, such that the moisture regain of the sliver after the stretch zone was approximately 35%.
  • the fibre diameter, crimp curvature, fibre length and yellowness were as follows. Diameter (micron) Curvature (°/mm) Fibre length (barbe mm) Yellowness (Y-Z) Untreated 28.6 66 97 5.8 Stretched 24.9 82 104 3.0
  • the stretched fibre was finer (although the diameter reduction was only 13% as compared to 15% in Example 1).
  • the crimp curvature and fibre length were increased and the yellowness was decreased.
  • an improved process and apparatus for stretching slivers of wool or animal fibres which may advantageously be used either for the production of temporarily set stretched fibre having high shrinkage potential or for the production of permanently set stretched fibre having reduced diameter, increased length and modified crimp curvature.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Claims (16)

  1. Processus destiné à étirer en continu et impartir de manière temporaire ou permanente une forme de ruban à de la laine ou à des fibres animales, comprenant les étapes consistant à :
    a) faire passer un ruban le long d'un passage pour ruban à travers une zone d'étirement ;
    b) générer une fausse torsion dans le ruban dans la zone d'étirement ;
    c) étirer le ruban dans la zone d'étirement en appliquant une tension à celui-ci ;
    caractérisé en ce que le passage pour ruban est un passage sensiblement linéaire à travers la zone d'étirement, entre les cylindres d'alimentation (3) et une entrée d'une unité de poulie de traction unique (5), la fausse torsion étant générée par l'unité de poulie de traction (5) et étant librement propagée le long du ruban dans la zone d'étirement ;
    et en ce que le procédé comprend le fait de rapidement chauffer le ruban et de réduire le taux de reprise d'humidité du ruban dans au moins une partie de la zone d'étirement en utilisant un champ micro-ondes (4).
  2. Processus selon la revendication 1, dans lequel la fausse torsion dans la zone d'étirement est automatiquement distribuée à l'intérieur de la zone d'étirement de telle sorte qu'il y a un couple constant le long du ruban et par conséquent une torsion plus importante (tours par mètre) où elle est nécessaire aux parties étirées et plus fines du ruban.
  3. Processus selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, dans lequel le chauffage rapide et le séchage du ruban densément garni sont réalisés en faisant passer le ruban à travers un champ micro-ondes (4) qui agit en tant qu'un sécheur.
  4. Processus selon la revendication 3, dans lequel le champ micro-ondes est confiné dans un guide d'ondes tubulaire.
  5. Processus selon la revendication 3 ou la revendication 4, dans lequel le passage sensiblement linéaire du ruban est dépourvu de poulie ou de guide permettant au ruban de passer facilement à travers le champ micro-ondes.
  6. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications 3 à 5, dans lequel le ruban qui doit être temporairement mis dans un état étiré est plastifié à un faible degré en traversant un tube vapeur (2) situé avant les cylindres d'alimentation, ce qui fait augmenter la température du ruban à approximativement 100°C et augmenter la reprise du ruban à au moins 19 % et dans lequel processus la reprise du ruban est ensuite réduite par le sécheur micro-ondes à moins de 14 %.
  7. Processus selon la revendication 6, dans lequel le ruban est temporairement mis en forme en utilisant un changement de reprise de 7 à 10 %.
  8. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la mise en forme impartie aux fibres du ruban est une mise en forme temporaire.
  9. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, dans lequel la mise en forme impartie aux fibres du ruban est une mise en forme permanente.
  10. Processus selon la revendication 9, dans lequel une plus grande permanence de mise en forme est obtenue par la réduction chimique des fibres avant l'étirement.
  11. Processus selon la revendication 9 ou la revendication 10, dans lequel une plus grande permanence de mise en forme est obtenue soit en faisant augmenter une distance entre le sécheur micro-ondes et l'ailette de la poulie de traction (5) soit en entourant le ruban d'une atmosphère de vapeur.
  12. Processus selon la revendication 11, dans lequel encore une autre augmentation du degré de mise en forme est fournie soit par un post-traitement d'oxydation soit par un traitement de réticulation.
  13. Appareil destiné à étirer en continu et impartir de manière temporaire ou permanente une forme de ruban à de la laine ou à des fibres animales,
    caractérisé par :
    a) une unité de poulie de traction unique (5) impartissant une fausse torsion à un ruban dans une zone d'étirement, et appliquant une tension d'étirement à un ruban dans la zone d'étirement ;
    b) un sécheur micro-ondes (4) qui fait rapidement augmenter la température et réduit la reprise du ruban à fausse torsion dans au moins une partie de la zone d'étirement ; et
    c) des cylindres d'alimentation (3), les cylindres d'alimentation et une entrée de l'unité de poulie de traction définissant un passage pour ruban sensiblement linéaire à travers la zone d'étirement.
  14. Appareil selon la revendication 13, dans lequel l'unité de poulie de traction unique est adaptée pour entraîner la sortie d'un ruban de l'unité de poulie de traction (5) le long de l'axe de rotation et qui se trouve en aval de la zone d'étirement et de séchage.
  15. Appareil selon la revendication 13 ou la revendication 14, dans lequel un vide d'air d'au moins 2 à 3 mètres existe entre une sortie du sécheur micro-ondes (4) et l'unité de poulie de traction (5).
  16. Appareil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 13 à 15, dans lequel le passage pour ruban est dépourvu de poulie et de cylindre dans la zone d'étirement entre la zone d'étirement et l'unité de poulie de traction (5).
EP00975027A 1999-10-28 2000-10-27 Procede et dispositif ameliores permettant d'etirer des fragments de fibres animales Expired - Lifetime EP1240368B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
NZ33545799 1999-10-28
NZ33545799 1999-10-28
PCT/NZ2000/000212 WO2001031097A2 (fr) 1999-10-28 2000-10-27 Procede et dispositif ameliores permettant d'etirer des fragments de fibres animales

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1240368A2 EP1240368A2 (fr) 2002-09-18
EP1240368A4 EP1240368A4 (fr) 2002-10-25
EP1240368B1 true EP1240368B1 (fr) 2006-06-07

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EP (1) EP1240368B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1236117C (fr)
AT (1) ATE329071T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU769950B2 (fr)
DE (1) DE60028604T2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001031097A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103361923B (zh) * 2013-07-31 2015-10-07 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 一种未着色羊毛拉伸细化和非永久定形的方法
CN105019093A (zh) * 2015-06-26 2015-11-04 天津纺织工程研究院有限公司 一种羊毛拉伸定型设备及定型工艺
CN106702563B (zh) * 2017-03-01 2018-09-04 青岛科技大学 一种螺杆调节式羊毛整直装置
CN107476100B (zh) * 2017-08-21 2023-12-05 长治高测新材料科技有限公司 环形钢丝绳的制造装置
CN109322030A (zh) * 2018-10-18 2019-02-12 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 Optim纤维拉伸机的拉伸室及其使用方法
CN110004556B (zh) * 2019-04-17 2021-04-30 中国农业科学院兰州畜牧与兽药研究所 一种动物纤维的捻拉设备
CN110760968A (zh) * 2019-12-03 2020-02-07 雄县勤丰纺织制造有限公司 一种合股线牵伸还原装置以及使用其的纱线绕卷成型机

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1358499A (en) * 1971-07-19 1974-07-03 Kanebo Ltd Method and apparatus for setting wool sliver
NZ220550A (en) * 1986-06-05 1990-10-26 Nearctic Research Centre Austr Microwave drier cavity: configuration maximises energy in drying zone while minimising energy reflected back to source
US4961307A (en) * 1989-08-09 1990-10-09 Cook Paul P Textile processing employing a stretching technique
BR9007603A (pt) * 1989-08-17 1992-08-25 Commw Scient Ind Res Org Processo e aparelho para estirar comprimentos de fibras e comprimentos de fibras
US5758483A (en) * 1993-09-17 1998-06-02 Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation Twisting apparatus

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Publication number Publication date
AU1313501A (en) 2001-05-08
WO2001031097A3 (fr) 2001-10-04
CN1236117C (zh) 2006-01-11
EP1240368A2 (fr) 2002-09-18
WO2001031097A2 (fr) 2001-05-03
CN1415031A (zh) 2003-04-30
DE60028604T2 (de) 2007-06-06
ATE329071T1 (de) 2006-06-15
DE60028604D1 (de) 2006-07-20
AU769950B2 (en) 2004-02-12
EP1240368A4 (fr) 2002-10-25

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