EP1167595A1 - Multifilament destine a un tissu a poils du type mohair, tissu a poils comprenant ce multifilament, et procede de fabrication de ce tissu - Google Patents

Multifilament destine a un tissu a poils du type mohair, tissu a poils comprenant ce multifilament, et procede de fabrication de ce tissu Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1167595A1
EP1167595A1 EP00906649A EP00906649A EP1167595A1 EP 1167595 A1 EP1167595 A1 EP 1167595A1 EP 00906649 A EP00906649 A EP 00906649A EP 00906649 A EP00906649 A EP 00906649A EP 1167595 A1 EP1167595 A1 EP 1167595A1
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European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pile
filament
pile fabric
mohair
denier
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EP00906649A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Satoshi Matoba
Yoshinori Kashita
Hideo Noguchi
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Kaneka Corp
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Kaneka Corp
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Publication of EP1167595A1 publication Critical patent/EP1167595A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a multi-filament comprising synthetic fiber used for mohair-like pile fabric and pile fabric comprising this and a method for manufacturing mohair-like pile fabric using synthetic fiber filament.
  • Natural mohair pile fabric obtained from angora goats has the characteristic appearance that the individual hairs constituting the pile are thick and straight in shape and that hairs constituting a single group are partially convergent, or hairs having a large curled shape are partially convergent. Also, although in mohair pile fabric, the individual hairs constituting the pile seem to be thick, it has the characteristic advantages of softness and low stiffness, and excellent heat-retaining properties, enabling it to be used as pile fabric for clothing fur for high quality products and for skins of toy animals such as bears, for example teddy-bears. However, since mohair is a natural product, it is subject to problems such as that the supply of the raw material is unstable and it is expensive. For this reason, various types of pile fabric using synthetic resin having the characteristics of natural mohair have been studied but no satisfactory product has yet been obtained.
  • the pile is manufactured by knitting or weaving using directly thick filament, in particular of single fiber thickness about 10 denier (11 dtex) rather than worsted yarn, since there is no intermingling between the single fibers, the problem can easily arise of single fibers dropping out during pile formation.
  • industrially multi-filaments are employed that have been subjected to bulky processing, or pile is formed in which the intermingling property between single fibers is ensured by means of yarn doubling of multi-filament and worsted yarn; pile of straight shape is then obtained by removing the crimp by polisher processing etc.
  • fine crimp is difficult to remove or complete removal of the crimp cannot be achieved.
  • a further method is to obtain a pile fabric by a pile forming method using sliver knitting rather than spun yarn or bulky processed filament; however, with this method, since fiber is employed that has been subjected to crimping in order to ensure the intermingling property of the sliver which is used as raw material, after manufacturing the pile fabric, it is necessary to remove the crimp of the fiber constituting the pile. However, in this case also there was the problem, as described above, that it was not possible to fully remove the crimp.
  • An object of the present invention is therefore, using synthetic resin, to provide a novel multi-filament for obtaining a mohair-like pile fabric wherein the fibers constituting the pile have a good balance of soft feel and nerve of pile and straightness similar to that of natural mohair and a pile fabric comprising this.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide a method whereby, when forming a mohair-like pile fabric from synthetic fiber, pile fabric similar to that whose raw material is natural mohair can be obtained with little processing loss (loss due to drop-out of single fibers).
  • the present inventors discovered that natural mohair-like pile fabric using as raw material synthetic resin could be obtained by employing a multi-filament constituted with fixed conditions.
  • the invention was achieved by discovering that a pile fabric presenting an appearance in which the hairs (fibers) constituting the pile have a straight shape and have partially convergent groups characteristic of a pile fabric made of natural mohair could be obtained by forming a pile of pile length for example 5 mm to 100 mm by knitting or weaving multi-filaments made of synthetic fiber that is not twisted or is twisted with a twist frequency of 150 T/m or less.
  • a multi-filament for mohair-like pile fabric is a multi-filament comprising synthetic fiber and having a single fiber fineness of 3 to 30 denier (3.3 to 33 dtex), and total fineness of 100 to 750 denier (110 to 830 dtex) and twist frequency of 150 T/m or less.
  • a method of manufacturing a mohair-like pile fabric according to the present invention consists in manufacturing a pile fabric of pile length 5 mm to 100 mm by applying a twist in a frequency of 150 T/m or less to a multi-filament comprising synthetic fiber and subjecting this multi-filament to knitting processing.
  • the knitting texture is double stitch, but it is also possible to use non-twist filament which has essentially not been subjected to twisting as the multi-filament.
  • the multi-filament of the present invention contains at least 50 wt% of fiber of flat cross-section wherein the flat ratio of the fiber cross-section expressed by the ratio of the length L of the long axis of the fiber cross-section and the length W of the short axis (L/W, see Figure 1) (hereinbelow referred to simply as the flat ratio) is 2 to 25.
  • a multi-filament according to the present invention may be a non-twist filament having essentially non-twist.
  • a multi-filament according to the present invention comprises acrylic-based synthetic fibers.
  • a pile fabric according to the present invention is a mohair-like pile fabric obtained by knitting a multi-filament as mentioned above.
  • this pile fabric is a mohair-like pile wherein the fibers constituting the pile are essentially not crimped, and the pile length is in the range 5 to 100 mm.
  • pile fabric of the present invention is employed as an industrial raw material in particular for clothing, toys (skins of toy animals) or interiors.
  • Multi-filament as used in the present invention means an assemblage of two or more monofilaments having a continuous length and in ordinary synthetic fiber classification is classified as "long fibers”.
  • the multi-filament according to the present invention comprises synthetic fiber whose single fiber fineness is in the range of 3 to 30 denier (3.3 to 33 dtex) and whose total fineness is in the range of 100 to 750 denier (110 to 830 dtex). If the single fiber fineness is less than 3 denier (3.3 dtex), the feel of the pile is too soft and it tends to have little nerve; also, the appearance of the fiber constituting the pile is thin i.e. it does not appear like the thick hair that is characteristic of mohair, and so is undesirable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30 denier (33 dtex), the rigidity of the fiber constituting the pile is large, with the result that the feel of the pile is rough i.e.
  • Fiber whose single fiber fineness is small, and which is soft and of little nerve is more suitable for products of short pile length; on the other hand, fiber whose single fiber fineness is large and which is hard and has good nerve is more suitable for products of long pile length; even in the above range of 3 to 30 denier (3.3 to 33 dtex), for example in order to obtain a pile of hard feel, the single fiber fineness may be made large and the pile length short.
  • the total fineness of the multi-filament is less than 100 denier (110 dtex)
  • the finished weight per unit area of the fabric becomes very small, so the under-layer of the pile is exposed; this gives rise to the problems of lowered value of the product and facilitation of yarn breakage in the knitting step; also, since the knitting has to be dense in order to raise the density of the pile, productivity tends to be lowered.
  • the finished weight per unit area of the pile becomes very large, making the weight of the fabric large and making the feel of the pile hard; this is therefore undesirable; in addition, since the multi-filament becomes too thick, problems frequently occur in the knitting step, in that some of the single fibers of the multi-filaments escape the needle, so that sometimes uniform knitting cannot be performed.
  • a preferred range of total fineness of the multi-filament should be selected in accordance with the material of the fibers, but, in particular in the case of acrylic-based fibers, a range of 100 to 750 denier (110 to 830 dtex) is preferable and from the point of view of maximizing "feel", a range of 150 to 600 denier (170 to 670 dtex) is preferred.
  • Acrylic-based fibers as referred to herein are synthetic fibers whose raw material is a polymer containing at least 30 wt% of acrylonitrile and, apart from acrylonitrile homopolymer, may be a copolymer obtained by copolymerization using a vinyl-based monomer capable of copolymerizing with acrylonitrile.
  • vinyl-based monomers capable of copolymerizing with acrylonitrile include: vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, vinyl bromide, vinylidene bromide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, acrylamide, methacrylamide, or mono- or dialkyl derivatives of these, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, methacrylic sulfonic acid, methacryloyl oxybenzene sulfonic acid, methacryloyl oxypropylene sulfonic acid, or metal salts of these and ammonium or amine salts, glycidyl acrylate, glycidyl methacrylate, acrylic glycidyl ether, and methacrylic glycidyl ether.
  • vinyl chloride or vinylidene chloride are preferred, or, if flame retardant properties are required, copolymers with vinyl chloride or vinyliden
  • stabilizers etc that are beneficial in increasing resistance to light etc may be added if required, and suitable quantities of various additives may be added in order to adjust glossiness.
  • suitable amounts of pigments or dyes etc may be employed and, if high flame retardance is required, suitable amounts of flame retardant may be added in a range that does not impair the "feel" of the pile.
  • 1 to 20 wt% of a rubber-like substance such as is disclosed in for example Laid-open Japanese Patent Application No. Sho. 58-215744 may be added to the spinning solution.
  • an up-twister system using for example an Italian-type yarn twisting machine or a double twister system such as is commonly employed for yarn doubling twisting or combination twisting etc may be employed, but there is no restriction to these.
  • the twist frequency lightly twisted yarn of a twist frequency of 150 T/m or less is preferable, with the object of preventing partial separation of the filaments in the pile knitting step and/or preventing fiber loss after manufacture. If the twist frequency exceeds 150 T/m, fine crimp produced by the twisting is left in the pile even after finishing, which is undesirable from the point of view of "feel" and appearance.
  • non-twist filaments having essentially non-twist are used in order to further accentuate straightness of the pile. "Having essentially non-twist” is a concept that includes not only a condition in which there is non-twist at all but also a condition in which no artificial twisting is carried out.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the fiber of the synthetic fiber used in the present invention may be of circular cross-section when the pile fabric is manufactured, or may preferably be of flat cross-section, since this tends to give a hard "feel" when the pile is touched.
  • the multi-filament consists of thick fibers of single fiber fineness of 20 denier (22 dtex) or more
  • the fiber cross-sectional shape is of low flat ratio, the nerve of the pile is high, so preferably the fiber has a highly flat shape of flat ratio of the fiber cross-section of at least 6, but if the flat ratio is raised too much, nerve is not particularly increased but the thickness of the fiber to the naked eye becomes large, so preferably the flat ratio is no more than 25.
  • the multi-filament consists of fine fibers of single fiber fineness of 10 denier (11 dtex) or less
  • the fiber crosssectional shape is of high flat ratio
  • the nerve of the pile becomes very low, so preferably the flat ratio is a low flat ratio of 5 or less; however, if the flat ratio is lowered too far, in contrast, the nerve becomes too large, so preferably the flat ratio is in a range of 2 to 5.
  • the flat ratio of the fibers of the multi-filament is in the range of 2 to 25.
  • fibers in the multi-filament should have a flat cross-section
  • fibers of flat cross-section having a cross-sectional shape within the aforementioned range of flat ratio are present in a proportion of at least 50 wt%.
  • the flatness ratio of the fiber cross-section can be measured by observation of the fiber cross-section of the multi-filament using for example a scanning electron microscope.
  • a spinning nozzle maybe employed having a circular or elliptical hole shape, and fiber of the target flat cross-sectional shape may be obtained by suitably adjusting the conditions in the solidification bath.
  • a nozzle having a shape close to the shape of the target fiber cross-section is preferably employed.
  • the pile length in the present invention means the length from the foundation of the pile fabric to the tip of the pile in the standing pile condition. If this pile length is shorter than 5 mm, it tends to be difficult to make the pile lengths uniform so a product approximating to mohair is not obtained and the commercial value is lowered. Also, on the other hand, if knitting is performed such that the pile length is longer than 100 mm, there are problems regarding lowered knitting efficiency and the fibers constituting the pile tend to become mutually intermingled, likewise tending to lower the commercial value of the product.
  • the pile length is related to the flat ratio and single fiber fineness of the synthetic fibers constituting the pile; if the flat ratio of the synthetic fibers is 5 or less and the single fiber fineness is 10 denier (11 dtex) or less, better straightness is obtained as the pile length is reduced and nerve is also increased; consequently, a range of pile length of 10 to 40 mm is preferable.
  • the pile length is related to the flat ratio and single fiber fineness of the synthetic fibers constituting the pile; if the flat ratio of the synthetic fibers is 5 or less and the single fiber fineness is 10 denier (11 dtex) or less, better straightness is obtained as the pile length is reduced and nerve is also increased; consequently, a range of pile length of 10 to 40 mm is preferable.
  • the range of pile length of 50 to 100 mm is preferred.
  • the target mohair-like pile fabric can be produced by knitting or weaving the multi-filament according to the present invention as described above.
  • the pile fabric obtained can be used for clothing, toys (skins of toy animals etc), interiors, or an industrial raw material etc and is particularly well-suited to the applications of clothing and toys in which the characteristic features of natural mohair are made use of.
  • a known knitting machine or weaving machine can be employed, but, from the point of view of productivity, cost and ease of processing, knitting processing is preferable.
  • the knitting processing of the pile according to the present invention is performed using ordinary knitting processing or a knitting machine remodeled so as to form long pile; in the case of a weft knitted texture, for example a circular knitting machine may be employed and in the case of a warp knitted texture, a raschel machine or tricot knitting machine or the like known knitting machine may be employed; however, there is no particular restriction to these. And in the case where double stitch knitting is adopted, a known circular knitting machine may be employed.
  • the aforesaid double stitch knitting texture means a knitting texture wherein, in contrast to ordinary knitted pile in which the standing pile is folded back in a V shape (as shown diagrammatically in Figure 2), knitting processing is performed in which the standing pile is folded back in W shape (as shown diagrammatically in Figure 3).
  • the multi-filament supplied for knitting may be supplied directly to the knitting machine but, if, when knitting, nap raising occurs due to separation of the single fibers of the filament, such separation (hereinbelow called "loosening") can be suppressed by increasing the convergence of the single fibers by adding a small quantity of oily agent to the multi-filament.
  • oily agent which is used to improve the convergence of the single fibers of the multi-filament
  • oily agents for filaments which are generally marketed and used to improve convergence may be employed.
  • oily agents for filaments for example non-ionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylenes, alkyl ethers, polyethers, or polyoxyethylene-ethylene oxide copolymers, or anionic surfactants such as fatty carboxylic acids or amino-acid type soaps or hydrophobic oily agents such as liquid paraffins may be mentioned by way of example; these oily agents may be used alone or as a combination of a plurality thereof.
  • non-ionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylenes, alkyl ethers, polyethers, or polyoxyethylene-ethylene oxide copolymers
  • anionic surfactants such as fatty carboxylic acids or amino-acid type soaps or hydrophobic oily agents such as liquid paraffins
  • liquid paraffin oily agents are particularly desirable; for example MYB-39S (manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.) is preferable in that when it is employed, although the amount of oily agent adhering is in the range 0.25% to 2.5% with respect to the filament weight, it has little effect on the product, but suppresses loosening of the filaments during knitting. If the amount of oily agent adhering exceeds 2.5%, this gives a sticky feel to the final product giving rise to problems such as that it easily becomes dirty due to adhesion of dust; it is therefore desirable to suppress loosening with as small an amount thereof as possible.
  • MYB-39S manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.
  • the method for depositing the oily agent onto the multi-filament there are no particular restrictions as regards method or process and for example a method in which this is added as primary oil or secondary oil in the multi-filament manufacturing step, or direct addition of oil when rewinding the filament obtained onto a filament bobbin after manufacturing the multi-filament may be employed, so long as the desired amount of oily agent is deposited on the multi-filament prior to knitting.
  • a convergence-filament has been improved by adhesion of a convergence-inducing oily agent, preferably its twist frequency should be 80 T/m or less, from the point of view of separability of the pile when in the form of pile fabric.
  • pile fabric having the desired standing pile configuration may be obtained by processing using hot brushing or a rotary tumbler dryer after first obtaining a straight pile fabric by the method described above.
  • Spinning solution of 29.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 49.5 wt% of acrylonitrile, 50 weight% of vinyl chloride, and 0.5 wt% of sodium styrene sulfonate in acetone; this spinning solution was colored beforehand using an acetone soluble cationic dye, and wet spinning was then performed at high speed in a 10 weight% aqueous solution of acetone, using a circular nozzle ( ⁇ 0.18 mm, number of holes: 50).
  • the gel-like fiber obtained was subjected to high-speed drawing of 2.5 times in warm water at 50°C to 60°C, then, further, in a somewhat relaxed condition, subjected to solvent removal by dwelling in a warm water bath of 60°C to 65°C for 20 seconds or more; NewSoft BN (manufactured by Kitahiro Chemical Company Ltd), which is a generally commercially available soft finishing polyethylene/polyamide-based oily agent was then deposited thereon in the amount of 1.0% with respect to the fiber weight and the fiber subjected to drying at a drying temperature of 150°C, then again subjected to hot drawing of 3.4 times in the same atmosphere, and subjected to relaxation heat treatment of 12% at 160°C.
  • NewSoft BN manufactured by Kitahiro Chemical Company Ltd
  • multi-filament was obtained by depositing 1.4% of liquid paraffin-based mineral oil as secondary oily agent with respect to the weight of the fiber, prior to the winding step.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 10 denier (11 dtex) and the total fineness 500 denier (560 dtex).
  • the fiber cross-sectional shape of this multi-filament was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was found that 68 wt% of fibers of flat cross-section were present in this multi-filament, the flat ratio of these fibers of flat cross-section being 3.8 on average.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this multi-filament, using a circular knitting machine [circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 15 mm [finished weight per unit area: 490 g/m 2 ] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • this pile fabric was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to provide mohair-like pile fabric (boa) with a natural subdued glossiness, no stickiness to the touch, and an animal hair-like feel, which was of nerve and excellent bulkiness.
  • Spinning solution of 26.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 93 wt% of acrylonitrile, 6 wt% of vinyl acetate and 1 wt% of methacrylic sulfonic acid in dimethyl acetamide.
  • Wet spinning was conducted at high speed in aqueous solution at 20°C with 65 wt% of dimethyl acetamide and 35 wt% of water, using this solution with a flat nozzle (long axis 0.345 mm, short axis 0.115 mm, number of holes 60). After washing the gel-like fiber obtained in warm water, it was subjected to primary drawing of 3.5 times in boiling water.
  • a mixed oily agent for spinning constituted by 95 weight% of Upol PA-1 (trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.), which is a fatty acid ester based oily agent, and 5 wt% of Zontes TL (trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.), which is a quaternary ammonium salt based oily agent was deposited onto the fiber, and the filament obtained thoroughly dried, and then subjected to further secondary drawing with a factor of 2 under dry heat and to 10% relaxation heat processing.
  • Upol PA-1 trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.
  • Zontes TL trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.
  • multi-filament was obtained by depositing 1.0 wt% of liquid paraffin based mineral oil as secondary oily agent prior to the winding step.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 10 denier (11 dtex) and the total fineness 600 denier (670 dtex).
  • the fiber cross-sectional shape of this multi-filament was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was found that 92 wt% of fibers of flat cross-section were present in this multi-filament, their flat ratio being 3.0 on average.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this multi-filament, using a circular knitting machine [circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 15 mm [finished weight per unit area: 510 g/m 2 ] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • this pile fabric (boa) was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to provide straight pile fabric of excellent straightness with a natural subdued glossiness, no stickiness to the touch, and an animal hair-like feel, which was of good nerve and excellent bulkiness.
  • Spinning solution of 29.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 49.5 wt% of acrylonitrile, 50 weight% of vinyl chloride, and 0.5 wt% of sodium styrene sulfonate in acetone; this spinning solution was colored beforehand using an acetone soluble cationic dye, and wet spinning was then performed at high speed in a 10 weight% aqueous solution of acetone, using a circular nozzle ( ⁇ 0.15 mm, number of holes: 25).
  • the gel-like fiber obtained was subjected to high-speed drawing of 2.5 times in warm water at 50°C to 60°C, then, further, in a somewhat relaxed condition, subjected to solvent removal by dwelling in a warm water bath of 60°C to 65°C for 20 seconds or more; a non-convergent oily agent i.e. a soft finishing polyethylene/polyamide-based oily agent (NewSoft BN) just as used in Embodiment 1 was then deposited thereon in the amount of 0.8% with respect to the fiber weight and the fiber subjected to drying at a drying temperature of 150°C, then again subjected to hot drawing of 3.4 times and subjected to relaxation heat treatment of 12%.
  • a non-convergent oily agent i.e. a soft finishing polyethylene/polyamide-based oily agent (NewSoft BN) just as used in Embodiment 1 was then deposited thereon in the amount of 0.8% with respect to the fiber weight and the fiber subjected to drying at a drying temperature of 150
  • multi-filament was obtained by depositing 1.4% of liquid paraffin-based mineral oil as secondary oily agent with respect to the weight of the fiber, prior to the winding step.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 6 denier (6.7 dtex) and the total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex).
  • the fiber cross-sectional shape of this multi-filament was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was found that 82 wt% of fibers of flat cross-section were present in this multi-filament, the flat ratio of these fibers of flat cross-section being 2.3 on average.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this multi-filament, using a circular knitting machine [circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, used under the conditions: course number: 26 course/inch, gauge number: 14 G, slip draft: 30 mm] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 15 mm was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • the straight pile fabric (boa) obtained by standing pile finishing thereof with a carding polishing finisher was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to provide mohair-like pile fabric with a natural subdued glossiness, presenting a special appearance, no stickiness to the touch, and an animal hair-like feel, which was of good nerve and excellent bulkiness.
  • Polyethylene terephthalate of limiting viscosity 0.53 was spun using a melt extrusion machine.
  • a flat nozzle (long axis width 0.75 mm, short axis width 0.16 mm, number of holes: 30) was employed, spinning being conducted with a spinning temperature of 270 to 285°C, pulling speed 400 m/min.
  • the multi-filament was obtained by subsequently drawing the fiber obtained with a factor of 2 in hot water at 80°C, then further drawing by a factor of 2.5 in hot water at 85°C and performing heat treatment using a heater roll at 140°C.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 10 denier (11 dtex) and total fineness 300 denier (330 dtex) and, when the cross-sectional shape of this fiber was observed using a scanning electron microscope, the fiber was found to be fiber of flat cross-section of mean flat ratio 4.5.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this multi-filament, using a circular knitting machine [knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, used under the conditions: course number: 26 course/inch, gauge number: 14 G, slip draft: 30 mm] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of double-stitch texture of pile length 15 mm was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • the pile fabric (boa) obtained was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to be capable of providing a mohair substitute with a natural subdued glossiness, no stickiness to the touch, and which had good nerve.
  • Spinning solution of 29.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 49.5 wt% of acrylonitrile, 50 weight% of vinyl chloride, and 0.5 wt% of sodium styrene sulfonate in acetone; this spinning solution was colored beforehand using an acetone soluble cationic dye, and wet spinning was then performed at high speed in a 10 weight% aqueous solution of acetone, using a circular nozzle ( ⁇ 0.35 mm, number of holes: 25).
  • the gel-like fiber obtained was subjected to high-speed drawing of 2.5 times in warm water at 50°C to 60°C, then, further, in a somewhat relaxed condition, subjected to solvent removal by dwelling in a warm water bath of 60°C to 65°C for 20 seconds or more; a soft finishing oily agent just as used in Embodiment 1 (NewSoft BN) was then deposited thereon in the amount of 1.0% with respect to the fiber weight and the fiber subjected to drying at a drying temperature of 150°C, then again subjected to hot drawing of 3.4 times, and subjected to relaxation heat treatment of 12%.
  • NewSoft BN soft finishing oily agent just as used in Embodiment 1
  • multi-filament was obtained by depositing 1.4% of liquid paraffin-based mineral oil as secondary oily agent with respect to the weight of the fiber, prior to the winding step.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 40 denier (44 dtex) and the total fineness 1000 denier (1110 dtex).
  • the fiber cross-sectional shape of this multi-filament was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was found that 68 wt% of fibers of flat cross-section were present in this multi-filament, the flat ratio of these fibers of flat cross-section being 2.8 on average.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this multi-filament, using a circular knitting machine [circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 35 mm [finished weight per unit area: 1050 g/m 2 ] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • this pile fabric was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to be hard to the touch and showed extreme nerve.
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test (comparison with natural mohair).
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test.
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test.
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test.
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test.
  • Spinning solution of 29.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 49.5 wt% of acrylonitrile, 50 weight% of vinyl chloride, and 0.5 wt% of sodium styrene sulfonate in acetone; this spinning solution was colored beforehand using an acetone soluble cationic dye, and wet spinning was then performed at high speed in a 10 weight% aqueous solution of acetone, using a circular nozzle ( ⁇ 0.15 mm, number of holes: 50).
  • the gel-like fiber obtained was subjected to high-speed drawing of 2.5 times in warm water at 50°C to 60°C, then, further, in a somewhat relaxed condition, subjected to solvent removal by dwelling in a warm water bath of 60°C to 65°C for 20 seconds or more; a soft finishing oily agent just as used in Embodiment 1 (NewSoft BN) constituting a non-convergent oily agent was then deposited thereon in the amount of 0.7% with respect to the fiber weight and the fiber subjected to drying at a drying temperature of 150°C, then again subjected to hot drawing of 3.4 times, and subjected to relaxation heat treatment of 12% and wound on a bobbin as non-twist yarn.
  • NewSoft BN soft finishing oily agent just as used in Embodiment 1
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 10 denier (11 dtex) and the total fineness 500 denier (560 dtex).
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric of pile length 7 mm using the non-twist yarn multi-filament that was thus obtained, using (a) a circular knitting machine set to ordinary knitting texture and (b) a circular knitting machine set to double-stitch texture [using for both (a) and (b) a circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch].
  • pile fabric of pile length 7 mm [finished weight per unit area: (a) ordinary knitting: 400 g/m 2 , (b) double-stitch knitting: 450 g/m 2 ] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing the pile surface with a shearing machine, after performing a single brushing step.
  • Both of the pile fabrics (a) and (b) which were thus obtained were pile fabrics in which a straight shape was maintained from the bottom of the foundation in the same way as in the case of fabric directly knitted from the filament and constituted products having a straight type appearance and soft sensation to touch similar to that of pile fabric in which natural mohair was employed as the raw material.
  • processing loss of 7.0 g occurred in the ordinary knitting of fabric (a) in the polishing step, brushing step and shearing step
  • the processing loss was 1.2 g. in the final product
  • loss of fibers when the surface was rubbed by hand was experienced, making this product inferior when compared with double stitch fabric (b).
  • Spinning solution of 26.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 93 wt% of acrylonitrile, 6 wt% of vinyl acetate and 1 wt% of methacrylic sulfonic acid in dimethyl acetamide.
  • Wet spinning was conducted at high speed in aqueous solution at 20°C with 75 wt% of dimethyl acetamide and 25 wt% of water, using this solution with a circular nozzle (diameter ⁇ 0.15 mm, number of holes 100). After washing the gel-like fiber obtained in warm water, it was subjected to primary drawing of 3.5 times in boiling water.
  • Zontes IB (trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.), which is a soft finishing oily agent constituting an oily agent for spinning was deposited onto the fiber, and the filament obtained thoroughly dried, and then subjected to further secondary drawing with a factor of 2 under dry heat and to 10% relaxation heat processing.
  • multi-filament of single fiber fineness 6 denier (6.7 dtex) and total fineness 600 denier (670 dtex) was obtained with (c) no deposition thereof and (d) deposition of 0.5 wt% with respect to the weight of the multi-filament of the liquid paraffin based mineral oil MYB-39S (manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.) as secondary oily agent prior to the winding step.
  • the non-twist filaments obtained were respectively converted into twisted yarn (hereinbelow called S twisted yarn) by rightwards twisting with a frequency of 60 T/m using an up-twister system employing an Italian type yarn twister.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using the S twisted yarn filaments that were respectively obtained, using a circular knitting machine [pile machine: knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 20 course/inch] set to double stitch texture. The back surface of this pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and drying performed for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 30 mm [finished weight per unit area: 600 g/m 2 in the case of both (c) and (d)] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120°C, then once at 100°C, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • the pile fabrics (c) and (d) which were obtained were both pile fabrics maintaining a straight shape from the bottom of the foundation just as in the case of pile fabrics manufactured by directly knitting the filament and constituted products having a straight type appearance and soft feel to the touch just like that of pile fabric employing natural mohair as its raw material.
  • a processing loss of 2.0 g occurred, while the processing loss in the case of fabric (d) was 1.1 g.
  • fabric (d) was the product offering the best trade-off of commercial quality and processing loss.
  • the pile fabric of pile length 30 mm obtained in Embodiment 6(d) was treated for 20 minutes in a rotary tumbler dryer whilst blowing in saturated steam, under a condition of 100% humidity, and internal temperature of 95°C. After blowing in of saturated steam was discontinued, this was cooled to 60°C, and the pile fabric taken out.
  • the pile fabric (f) obtained was a product in which the pile bundles had a gentle waviness of about two peaks per inch and a partially converging appearance like that of natural mohair.
  • Staple of 10 denier (11 dtex) x152 mm was obtained by applying eight crimps per inch to acrylic based fiber of the same composition as in Embodiment 6 with a pressing-in type steam setter. It was thereby converted to yarn of yarn number count 2/28, two single yarns twisted 350 (turns/m) are folded and twisted 230 (turns/m).
  • This yarn was used to knit a pile fabric, employing a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, using a circular knitting machine [circular knitting machine manufactured by Nagata Kikai, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch] set to ordinary stitch texture.
  • the back face of this pile fabric was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin, and drying conducted for 5 minutes at 130°C using a pin tenter drier.
  • pile yarn twist was untwisted by processing four times using a brushing machine and polishing was performed once in each case at the temperatures 150°C, 120°C and 100°C; the pile surface was sheared using a shearing machine, to obtain a pile fabric of pile length 7 mm, finished weight per unit area 410 g/m 2 .
  • crimp was removed in a portion of up to about 50% length from the tip of the pile in the direction of its bottom in the case of the pile fabric (g) which was thus obtained, slight crimp was left in the remaining portions so that, compared with the 30 mm pile fabric of Embodiment 6, the appearance of the product presented a different shape to that of straight type pile fabric whose raw material was natural mohair. It was further inferior to Embodiment 6 and 7 in that, in this processing, 15.5 g of pile waste was generated in polishing in order to obtain 100 g of this pile fabric.
  • Spinning solution of 29.5 wt% was prepared by dissolving copolymer resin comprising 49.5 wt% of acrylonitrile, 50 wt% of vinyl chloride and 0.5 wt% of sodium styrene sulfonate in acetone.
  • Wet spinning was conducted at high speed in 10 wt% acetone aqueous solution using a circular nozzle ( ⁇ 0.18 mm, number of holes: 60); the spinning solution was colored beforehand using an acetone soluble cationic dye.
  • the gel-like fiber obtained was subjected to high-speed drawing of 2.5 times in warm water at 50°C to 60°C, then, further, in a somewhat relaxed condition, subjected to solvent removal by dwelling in a warm water bath of 60°C to 65°C for 20 seconds or more; after this, 1.0% with respect to the fiber weight of Zontes IB (trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.), which is a soft finishing oily agent that is generally commercially employed as a spinning or oily agent for converging was deposited onto the fiber, and thorough drying conducted with dry heat of 150°C and, in addition, hot drawing of 3.4 times under the same atmosphere; 12% relaxation heat processing was then conducted at 160°C, to obtain the multi-filament.
  • Zontes IB trademark; manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku K.K.
  • the single fiber fineness of this multi-filament was 10 denier (11 dtex) and the total fineness 600 denier (670 dtex). Also, when the fiber cross-sectional shape of this multi-filament was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was found that 68 wt% of fibers of flat cross-section were present in this multi-filament, the flat ratio of these fibers of flat cross-section being 3.8 on average.
  • This multi-filament was converted into S twisted yarn by twisting with a frequency of 350 T/m using an up-twister system employing an Italian type yarn twister.
  • a double yarn base yarn of polyester multi-filament [single fiber fineness 3 denier (3.3 dtex), number of filaments: 50f, total fineness 150 denier (170 dtex)] and acrylic, of yarn number count 1/30, was used to knit a pile fabric using this S twisted yarn filament which was obtained, using a circular knitting machine [pile machine: circular knitting machine manufactured by SUNG CHANG Machinery of the Republic of Korea, gauge number: 14 G, course number: 23 course/inch] set to double stitch texture; the back surface of the pile was coated with acrylic acid ester based resin and dried for 5 minutes at 130oC using a pin tenter drier.
  • Pile fabric of pile length 35 mm [finished weight per unit area: 1100 g/m 2 ] was then obtained by aligning the pile directions by processing with a polisher once at 120oC, then once at 100oC, followed by shearing surface nap with a shearing machine.
  • this pile fabric (h) was employed as the skin of a toy animal, it was found to be of inferior straightness, since a crimped shape it was produced by firm twist being left in the standing pile portion. Also, the total amount of pile waste produced in the brushing and shearing steps was to 0.2 g to obtain 100 g of pile.
  • Embodiments 5 to 6 and Comparative Examples 2 to 3 are shown in Table 2.
  • Embodiment 5 Embodiment 6 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Raw material used (twist frequency of twisted yarn) Multifilament 10d x 50f (non-twist yarn) Multifilament 6d x 100f (60 turns/m) Worsted yarn 10d x152 mm Multifilament 10d x 60f (350 turns/m) Item for comparison Knitting texture Secondary oily agent Worsted yarn Twist frequency
  • Evaluation method based on a functional test.
  • the evaluation standard was a five-level evaluation in the same way as in the case of Table 1.
  • pile fabric By using the multi-filament for mohair-like pile fabric according to the present invention, pile fabric can be obtained which is of excellent straightness, which has a soft feel approximating to that of natural mohair, and yet which has nerve.
  • pile products By using such pile fabric, pile products can be obtained which are ideal as material for clothing, toys, interiors, or for industrial use.
  • natural mohair-like pile fabric can be obtained using synthetic resin, with little processing loss and which has a soft feel and straight type appearance.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP00906649A 1999-03-04 2000-03-03 Multifilament destine a un tissu a poils du type mohair, tissu a poils comprenant ce multifilament, et procede de fabrication de ce tissu Withdrawn EP1167595A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP5637799 1999-03-04
JP5637799 1999-03-04
JP5637699 1999-03-04
JP5637699 1999-03-04
PCT/JP2000/001252 WO2000052241A1 (fr) 1999-03-04 2000-03-03 Multifilament destine a un tissu a poils du type mohair, tissu a poils comprenant ce multifilament, et procede de fabrication de ce tissu

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EP1167595A1 true EP1167595A1 (fr) 2002-01-02

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EP (1) EP1167595A1 (fr)
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004009895A1 (fr) 2002-07-22 2004-01-29 Teijin Fibers Limited Tricot a fil multifilament plat
KR20160104929A (ko) * 2015-02-27 2016-09-06 김경만 날개사의 떨어짐을 방지하는 뜨개실의 조직구조

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1955352B (zh) * 2005-10-27 2011-10-26 佰龙机械厂股份有限公司 用以制造长毛绒织物的针织机
CN111848761B (zh) * 2019-04-12 2022-03-01 中国科学院遗传与发育生物学研究所 与油脂代谢调控相关的大豆转录因子GmMYB395及其编码基因与应用

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JPS5247053B2 (fr) * 1972-10-16 1977-11-30
JPS546962A (en) * 1977-06-16 1979-01-19 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Production of pile cloth similar to animal fiber
JPS59192727A (ja) * 1983-04-15 1984-11-01 Nippon Ester Co Ltd モヘア調ポリエステル繊維の製造法
JPS63190083A (ja) * 1987-01-30 1988-08-05 株式会社クラレ 獣毛調ポリエステル繊維およびその製造方法

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004009895A1 (fr) 2002-07-22 2004-01-29 Teijin Fibers Limited Tricot a fil multifilament plat
EP1524349A1 (fr) * 2002-07-22 2005-04-20 Teijin Fibers Limited Tricot a fil multifilament plat
EP1524349B1 (fr) * 2002-07-22 2016-03-16 Teijin Limited Tricot a fil multifilament plat
KR20160104929A (ko) * 2015-02-27 2016-09-06 김경만 날개사의 떨어짐을 방지하는 뜨개실의 조직구조
KR101672626B1 (ko) 2015-02-27 2016-11-03 김경만 날개사의 떨어짐을 방지하는 뜨개실의 조직구조

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CN1115432C (zh) 2003-07-23
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KR20010102265A (ko) 2001-11-15

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