EP1048241A1 - Verfahren zum Fassen von weichen Edelsteinen in ein Stück aus hartem Metall - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Fassen von weichen Edelsteinen in ein Stück aus hartem Metall Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1048241A1
EP1048241A1 EP00810313A EP00810313A EP1048241A1 EP 1048241 A1 EP1048241 A1 EP 1048241A1 EP 00810313 A EP00810313 A EP 00810313A EP 00810313 A EP00810313 A EP 00810313A EP 1048241 A1 EP1048241 A1 EP 1048241A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
grains
stones
holes
stone
metal
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00810313A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Gérald Clerc
Juan Gérald Montes
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Clerc SA
Original Assignee
Clerc SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Clerc SA filed Critical Clerc SA
Publication of EP1048241A1 publication Critical patent/EP1048241A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • Diamonds have already been set on steel. However, you should know that the stone during its setting whatever the technique used undergoes constraints whatsoever during the establishment in holes or when tightening with claws or catkins or grains that can cause destruction partial or total of the stone.
  • the diamond being the hardest stone, since it has a degree of hardness of 10 on the MOHS scale, it allows to realize crimping on steel without many problems.
  • we don't just use diamonds whose prices are among the highest but other stones of colors such as ruby, sapphire, coridon, etc. whose hardness level is less than 10 MOHS. These stones hardly support the constraints of a usual crimping in a hard metal such as steel.
  • the object of the present invention is to remedy this problem and to propose a crimping process to grains of so-called soft stones on a hard metal such than steel.
  • the method according to the invention is characterized in that the holes drilled in step b have a maximum diameter corresponding to the diameter of the laminated stones allowing the introduction of stones into the holes corresponding without deformation of the metal, and that one mill the lower parts of the beans to preform the bearing of the stone, which will marry the laminate when applying the grains on the crown of each stone.
  • the stone is put into the previously dug hole practically without any effort, since the diameter of the hole corresponds to the maximum diameter of the stone, so the stone is not subjected to an effort to push it inside the hole and deform the metal.
  • the diameter of the hole corresponds to the maximum diameter of the stone ensures close contact ensuring the holding of the gem, but the latter does not undergo the stresses that it would have suffered if the hole was smaller than its diameter maximum.
  • the fact that the lower part of the grains has been milled to preform the bearing surface of the stone allows when the grains are pushed against the stone to obtain its crimping without the latter being subjected to stresses as in the previous state to form the bearing of the stone in the grains. It is obvious that when the grains are pushed against the stone, the latter is subjected to an effort, but it is an effort which is not intended to deform the grains and ensure the bearing of the stones by the penetration of the laminate in the grains, but only to clamp the stone between the grains and to bring back in what kind the millings on the angle formed by the crown, the laminate and the cylinder head of the stone.
  • the grain formation is achieved by milling the piece of metal in two perpendicular directions. Indeed, this milling is carried out by removing metal between holes working in two directions different, which creates the path to allow the light reaching the gem's breech, which allows maximum light reflection of radiance.
  • Figure 1 is a sectional view of a piece of metal with the holes intended to receive the stones precious.
  • Figure 2 is a partial view of Figure 1 in plan after milling to lift the grains.
  • Figure 3 is a view similar to the previous one in which two precious stones were placed in their accommodation.
  • Figures 4 and 5 show a partial view of the grain setting of a precious stone according to art prior.
  • FIGS 6 and 7 show grain setting according to the present invention.
  • FIG 1 there is shown a piece of metal 1 in cup provided with holes 2 dug by any known means.
  • a strafing that is to say we mark, depending on the size of the stones and the desired effect obtain, the center of each hole to be made and by the following by means of tools such as strawberries or similar we proceed to the formation of holes 2 in one or more operations.
  • the diameter of the holes drilled is slightly less than the maximum stone diameter and more precisely of the fiilletis.
  • a cutting tool and in this case it will be a strawberry, we dig the space between the two holes (hatched part of the drawing) for two purposes, the first being to leave pass the light towards the lower part of the gem, which allows to get the reflection of the light ensuring the shiny appearance of the stones, and for lift the grains 4 which will be used later to keep each gem inside the hole.
  • there are four grains per stone but this number may vary depending on the size of the stones and the aesthetic effect that desire to obtain. What is certain is that it is necessary that the arrangement of these grains is completely made symmetrical with respect to the gem and also by compared to the room as a whole.
  • FIG. 3 we have represented the object of the Figure 2, except that inside the holes 2 we have arranged the gems 5 represented in a well heard quite schematic.
  • the diameter of the hole 2 corresponds exactly the maximum gem diameter (from leaf) and just push the gem inside this hole, which of course does not holding the gem as effectively as when it there is deformation of the metal.
  • each grain 4 must be pushed by a tool 6 called tab against gem 5 and if we refer now in Figure 5, we see that the grain 4 comes marry part of the crown 52 of the gem and more precisely the angle formed by the crown 52, the laminate 51 and cylinder head 53.
  • the base of the grain 4 is deformed, which makes it possible to obtain a good seated gem 5 in its hole and an outfit sufficient.
  • This deformation of the metal cannot be Obviously obtained if the stone 52 has a some resistance to obtain the deformation metal.
  • the present invention proposes to form by milling at the foot of grain 4 a notch 41, so when the tab 6 pushes the grain 4 against the stone 5, the space necessary to house the part of the gem, namely the angle formed by the crown 52, the laminate 51 and the cylinder head 53, is preformed, which does not subject the gem to constraints necessary for the formation of a bleeding in metal, as in the prior art, which could cause its destruction. It's obvious that the space shown in figure 6 between the stone and the notch 41 is exaggerated for the clarity of the drawing.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
EP00810313A 1999-04-21 2000-04-10 Verfahren zum Fassen von weichen Edelsteinen in ein Stück aus hartem Metall Withdrawn EP1048241A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9905050A FR2792508B1 (fr) 1999-04-21 1999-04-21 Procede de sertissage a grains de pierres molles dans une piece en metal dur
FR9905050 1999-04-21

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1048241A1 true EP1048241A1 (de) 2000-11-02

Family

ID=9544703

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00810313A Withdrawn EP1048241A1 (de) 1999-04-21 2000-04-10 Verfahren zum Fassen von weichen Edelsteinen in ein Stück aus hartem Metall

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1048241A1 (de)
FR (1) FR2792508B1 (de)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004110200A3 (fr) * 2003-06-11 2005-03-24 Lyon Serti Procede de sertissage d’une pierre dans un element de metal
WO2005055757A1 (de) * 2003-12-12 2005-06-23 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem schmuckelement sowie ein verfahren und ein werkzeug zur herstellung eines derartigen schmuckstücks
EP1825773A1 (de) * 2006-02-28 2007-08-29 Blancpain S. A. Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement
DE202011002509U1 (de) 2011-02-08 2011-10-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement
DE102011010665A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
WO2012107209A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem schmuckelement sowie ein verfahren zur herstellung eines derartigen schmuckstücks

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB267618A (en) * 1925-12-19 1927-03-21 Charles William Plumbridge Improvements relating to the setting of precious and other stones in articles of jewellery
FR2171039A1 (de) * 1972-02-08 1973-09-21 Majorica Heusch Sa
DE2531724A1 (de) * 1975-07-16 1977-01-20 Evert Hofacker Schmuckstueck in form eines ringes, armreifs o.dgl. mit einem in einer fassung gehaltenen brillanten oder edelstein
EP0197871A1 (de) * 1985-03-21 1986-10-15 DIAMANT APPLICATIONS Société Anonyme dite: Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schmuckwaren mit einer oder mehreren Reihen von Edelsteinen und so hergestellte Schmuckwaren

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB267618A (en) * 1925-12-19 1927-03-21 Charles William Plumbridge Improvements relating to the setting of precious and other stones in articles of jewellery
FR2171039A1 (de) * 1972-02-08 1973-09-21 Majorica Heusch Sa
DE2531724A1 (de) * 1975-07-16 1977-01-20 Evert Hofacker Schmuckstueck in form eines ringes, armreifs o.dgl. mit einem in einer fassung gehaltenen brillanten oder edelstein
EP0197871A1 (de) * 1985-03-21 1986-10-15 DIAMANT APPLICATIONS Société Anonyme dite: Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schmuckwaren mit einer oder mehreren Reihen von Edelsteinen und so hergestellte Schmuckwaren

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004110200A3 (fr) * 2003-06-11 2005-03-24 Lyon Serti Procede de sertissage d’une pierre dans un element de metal
AU2004246840B2 (en) * 2003-06-11 2009-02-19 Serti, Lyon Method for setting a stone in a metal element
JP4842808B2 (ja) * 2003-06-11 2011-12-21 リヨン セルティ 金属部品に石をセットする方法、及びその方法により製造された製品
WO2005055757A1 (de) * 2003-12-12 2005-06-23 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem schmuckelement sowie ein verfahren und ein werkzeug zur herstellung eines derartigen schmuckstücks
EP1825773A1 (de) * 2006-02-28 2007-08-29 Blancpain S. A. Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement
US7971326B2 (en) 2006-02-28 2011-07-05 Blancpain S.A. Method of setting stones in a support element
DE202011002509U1 (de) 2011-02-08 2011-10-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement
DE102011010665A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
WO2012107209A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem schmuckelement sowie ein verfahren zur herstellung eines derartigen schmuckstücks

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2792508A1 (fr) 2000-10-27
FR2792508B1 (fr) 2001-07-27

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