EP0900533B1 - Bijou creux - Google Patents

Bijou creux Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0900533B1
EP0900533B1 EP98112032A EP98112032A EP0900533B1 EP 0900533 B1 EP0900533 B1 EP 0900533B1 EP 98112032 A EP98112032 A EP 98112032A EP 98112032 A EP98112032 A EP 98112032A EP 0900533 B1 EP0900533 B1 EP 0900533B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wall
hollow
precious stone
stone
jewelry
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP98112032A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0900533A2 (en
EP0900533A3 (en
Inventor
Wilhelm Winkler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Publication of EP0900533A2 publication Critical patent/EP0900533A2/en
Publication of EP0900533A3 publication Critical patent/EP0900533A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0900533B1 publication Critical patent/EP0900533B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/4959—Human adornment device making
    • Y10T29/49593—Finger ring making
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
    • Y10T29/49888—Subsequently coating

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a hollow jewelry with at least one in it electroplated wall used gemstone, which by electroplated applied material is held.
  • Hollow jewelry today is often not by pressing, but by galvanic Ways made.
  • An original model made of steel is cast in silicone and this Silicone mold for the production of a variety of wax models, which the original model correspond, used.
  • the wax models are made with a conductive silver varnish coated, and so much gold is electroplated onto the conductive surface applied that the coating of the wax model is self-supporting. After all, can the wax is melted out of the hollow body.
  • white metal titanium bismuth
  • the known methods have the disadvantage that the insertion of the stone only in In the course of the electroplating process takes place, causing damage to the extreme thin wall (about 0.2 mm) of the hollow jewelry can come.
  • the Holding area which mediates the attachment of the stone to the hollow jewelry, bad are defined.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to create a hollow jewelry in which simple way a good fastening of the used gemstones is guaranteed is.
  • the frame that conveys the connection between the gem and cavity wall can in principle be designed in a known manner (cf. US 4,972,685, FIG. 10).
  • projections provided on the socket usually intervene frictionally in the wall of holes in jewelry Hollow jewelry the possibility to reach behind the wall of the jewelry.
  • FIG. 1 the sheet metal blank from which an inventive Socket for a gem can be formed
  • Fig. 2 explains the Cross-section and the procedure for embedding a stone during manufacture of hollow jewelry
  • Fig. 3 corresponds to Fig. 2 for a modified version.
  • a wax model 6 is first used in the desired shape. For the later insertion of stones it shows Bores 12 on.
  • the wax model 6 is made with a layer 11 of electrical conductive silver lacquer, then the socket 1 holding the stone 1 pressed with the tips 10 into the wax model 6.
  • a layer forming the wall 4 of the hollow jewelry in particular from Gold applied, which is typically a thickness of the order of 0.2 mm.
  • the galvanic layer forming the wall 4 overlaps the socket 2 and forms a unit with it, making the stone 1 safe and in a defined manner is anchored in the hollow jewelry, which is finally removed by removing the Wax model 6 is created.
  • the socket 2 of the gem 1 is in a Bore 12 'used, the diameter of the cylindrical lower edge of the Version 2 corresponds. The insertion is by the conical edge 14 of the Version 2 relieved. Resilient projections 13 on the socket 2 are here first pressed into the wax model 6 and reach behind in the finished state of the Hollow jewelry the wall 4.
  • the gem stone 1 has the shape of a Chatons on.
  • the invention is not limited to this and could also be be used in so-called squares.
  • the size of the used Gemstone is capped by the possibility of a suitable one To produce version 2.

Description

Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf einen Hohlschmuck mit mindestens einem in dessen galvanisch hergestellter Wand eingesetzten Schmuckstein, welcher durch galvanisch aufgebrachtes Material festgehalten ist.The invention relates to a hollow jewelry with at least one in it electroplated wall used gemstone, which by electroplated applied material is held.

Hohlschmuck wird heute vielfach nicht durch Pressen, sondern auf galvanischem Wege hergestellt. Hiebei wird ein Urmodell aus Stahl in Silikon abgegossen und diese Silikonform zur Herstellung einer Vielzahl von Wachsmodellen, welche dem Urmodell entsprechen, verwendet. Die Wachsmodelle werden mit einem Silberleitlack beschichtet, und auf die leitende Oberfläche wird galvanoplastisch so viel Gold aufgetragen, daß der Überzug des Wachsmodells selbsttragend wird. Schließlich kann das Wachs aus dem Hohlkörper ausgeschmolzen werden. An Stelle von Wachs kann auch Weißmetall (Zinn-Wismut) verwendet werden.Hollow jewelry today is often not by pressing, but by galvanic Ways made. An original model made of steel is cast in silicone and this Silicone mold for the production of a variety of wax models, which the original model correspond, used. The wax models are made with a conductive silver varnish coated, and so much gold is electroplated onto the conductive surface applied that the coating of the wax model is self-supporting. After all, can the wax is melted out of the hollow body. Instead of wax can white metal (tin bismuth) can also be used.

Schmucksteine sind elektrisch nicht leitend. Ihre Einbettung in auf galvanischem Wege hergestellten Hohlschmuck ist daher relativ kompliziert. Gemäß DE 35 44 429 C2 wird die Wand des Hohlschmuckes derart gestaltet, daß nach Beendigung des Galvanisiervorganges Steine in vorbereitete Öffnungen der Wand eingesetzt werden können. Um die Steine darin festzuhalten, werden Auswölbungen der Wandoberfläche nachträglich mechanisch verformt. Aus EP 0 620 987 ist andererseits ein Verfahren bekannt geworden, bei welchem zuerst ein Hohlschmuck mit geschlossener Wand hergestellt wird. Die Steine werden in Vertiefungen der Wand eingelegt, wobei sich der größte Durchmesser der Steine etwa am oberen Rand der Vertiefung befindet. Durch fortgesetzte galvanische Auftragung von Metall entsteht ein den Stein geringfügig übergreifender Randwulst, welcher den Stein festhalten soll.Gemstones are not electrically conductive. Your embedding in a galvanic way Hollow jewelry produced is therefore relatively complicated. According to DE 35 44 429 C2 the wall of the hollow jewelry designed such that after the completion of Electroplating stones can be inserted into prepared openings in the wall can. To hold the stones in place, bulges of the wall surface subsequently mechanically deformed. On the other hand, EP 0 620 987 describes a method became known, in which first a hollow jewelry with a closed wall will be produced. The stones are placed in recesses in the wall, the largest diameter of the stones is located approximately at the top of the depression. By Continued galvanic application of metal creates a slight difference to the stone overlapping bead, which should hold the stone.

Die bekannten Verfahren haben den Nachteil, daß das Einsetzen des Steins erst im Zuge des Galvanisierverfahrens erfolgt, wodurch es zu Beschädigungen der äußerst dünnen Wand (etwa 0,2 mm) des Hohlschmuckes kommen kann. Zudem ist der Haltebereich, welcher die Befestigung des Steins am Hohlschmuck vermittelt, schlecht definiert. The known methods have the disadvantage that the insertion of the stone only in In the course of the electroplating process takes place, causing damage to the extreme thin wall (about 0.2 mm) of the hollow jewelry can come. In addition, the Holding area, which mediates the attachment of the stone to the hollow jewelry, bad Are defined.

Aufgabe der Erfindung ist somit die Schaffung eines Hohlschmuckes, bei welchem auf einfache Weise eine gute Befestigung der eingesetzten Schmucksteine gewährleistet ist.The object of the invention is therefore to create a hollow jewelry in which simple way a good fastening of the used gemstones is guaranteed is.

Dies wird erfindungsgemäß dadurch erreicht, daß eine den Schmuckstein umgebende Fassung aus Metallblech zwischen dem Schmuckstein und der Wand angeordnet ist.This is achieved according to the invention in that a surrounding the gem Metal frame between the gem and the wall is arranged.

Die Fassung, welche die Verbindung zwischen Schmuckstein und Hohlwand vermittelt, kann prinzipiell in bekannter Weise (vgl. US 4,972,685, Fig. 10) ausgebildet sein. Während an der Fassung vorgesehene Vorsprünge jedoch üblicherweise reibungsschlüssig in die Wandung von Bohrungen im Schmuck eingreifen, besteht bei Hohlschmuck die Möglichkeit, die Wand des Schmuckes zu hintergreifen. Außerdem ist es zweckmäßig, die Fassung so auszubilden, daß sie leicht in das Wachsmodell, das zur Herstellung des Hohlschmuckes dient, eingesetzt werden kann.The frame that conveys the connection between the gem and cavity wall, can in principle be designed in a known manner (cf. US 4,972,685, FIG. 10). However, while projections provided on the socket usually intervene frictionally in the wall of holes in jewelry Hollow jewelry the possibility to reach behind the wall of the jewelry. Moreover it is advisable to design the frame so that it easily fits into the wax model, which is used to manufacture the hollow jewelry, can be used.

Einzelheiten der Erfindung werden anschließend anhand der Zeichnung erläutert. In dieser stellt Fig. 1 den Blechzuschnitt dar, aus welchem eine erfindungsgemäße Fassung für einen Schmuckstein gebildet werden kann, Fig. 2 erläutert den Querschnitt und die Vorgangsweise beim Einbetten eines Steins bei der Herstellung von Hohlschmuck, Fig. 3 entspricht Fig. 2 für eine abgeänderte Fassung.Details of the invention are subsequently explained with reference to the drawing. In this represents Fig. 1 the sheet metal blank from which an inventive Socket for a gem can be formed, Fig. 2 explains the Cross-section and the procedure for embedding a stone during manufacture of hollow jewelry, Fig. 3 corresponds to Fig. 2 for a modified version.

Um erfindungsgemäß Schmucksteine in Hohlschmuck einsetzen zu können, werden die Schmucksteine mit einer Fassung aus Metallblech umgeben. Üblicherweise besteht diese Fassung aus dem gleichen Edelmetall wie der Hohlschmuck. Die Fassung wird hergestellt, indem von dem in Fig. 1 dargestellten Trägerband 7 Blechzuschnitte 8 entlang der gestrichelten Linie 9 abgetrennt werden. Diese Zuschnitte 8 werden entlang des größten Umfangs um den Stein gelegt. Aus Fig. 2 ist ersichtlich, wie die aus dem Zuschnitt 8 hergestellte Fassung 2 einen Schmuckstein 1 entlang seines größten Umfanges umgibt.In order to be able to use gemstones in hollow jewelry according to the invention surround the gemstones with a frame made of sheet metal. Usually this frame is made of the same precious metal as the hollow jewelry. The Socket is produced by using the carrier tape 7 shown in FIG. 1 Sheet blanks 8 are cut along the dashed line 9. This Blanks 8 are placed around the stone along the largest circumference. From Fig. 2 is can be seen how the socket 2 produced from the blank 8 has a gem 1 surrounds along its greatest circumference.

Bei der Herstellung von Hohlschmuck wird zunächst ein Wachsmodell 6 in der gewünschten Form hergestellt. Für das spätere Einsetzen von Steinen weist es Bohrungen 12 auf. Das Wachsmodell 6 wird mit einer Schicht 11 aus elektrisch leitendem Silberlack überzogen, anschließend wird die den Stein 1 haltende Fassung 2 mit den Spitzen 10 in das Wachsmodell 6 gedrückt. In einem Galvanisierbad wird nunmehr eine die Wand 4 des Hohlschmucks bildende Schicht, insbesondere aus Gold, aufgetragen, welche typischerweise eine Dicke in der Größenordnung von 0,2 mm aufweist. Die die Wand 4 bildende galvanische Schicht übergreift die Fassung 2 und bildet mit dieser eine Einheit, wodurch der Stein 1 sicher und in definierter Weise in dem Hohlschmuck verankert ist, welcher schließlich durch Entfernung des Wachsmodelles 6 entsteht.In the manufacture of hollow jewelry, a wax model 6 is first used in the desired shape. For the later insertion of stones it shows Bores 12 on. The wax model 6 is made with a layer 11 of electrical conductive silver lacquer, then the socket 1 holding the stone 1 pressed with the tips 10 into the wax model 6. In a plating bath now a layer forming the wall 4 of the hollow jewelry, in particular from Gold applied, which is typically a thickness of the order of 0.2 mm. The galvanic layer forming the wall 4 overlaps the socket 2 and forms a unit with it, making the stone 1 safe and in a defined manner is anchored in the hollow jewelry, which is finally removed by removing the Wax model 6 is created.

Beim Ausführungsbeispiel nach Fig. 3 ist die Fassung 2 des Schmucksteines 1 in eine Bohrung 12' eingesetzt, deren Durchmesser dem zylindrischen unteren Rand der Fassung 2 entspricht. Das Einsetzen wird durch den kegelförmigen Rand 14 der Fassung 2 erleichtert. Federnde Vorsprünge 13 an der Fassung 2 werden hier zunächst in das Wachsmodell 6 eingedrückt und hintergreifen im fertigen Zustand des Hohlschmucks die Wand 4.3, the socket 2 of the gem 1 is in a Bore 12 'used, the diameter of the cylindrical lower edge of the Version 2 corresponds. The insertion is by the conical edge 14 of the Version 2 relieved. Resilient projections 13 on the socket 2 are here first pressed into the wax model 6 and reach behind in the finished state of the Hollow jewelry the wall 4.

In den dargestellten Ausführungsbeispielen weist der Schmuckstein 1 die Form eines Chatons auf. Die Erfindung ist darauf jedoch nicht beschränkt und könnte etwa auch bei sogenannten Squares angewendet werden. Die Größe des eingesetzten Schmucksteines ist nach unten durch die Möglichkeit begrenzt, eine geeignete Fassung 2 herzustellen. Steine mit mehr als 4 mm Durchmesser werden andererseits vom Markt nicht verlangt.In the illustrated exemplary embodiments, the gem stone 1 has the shape of a Chatons on. However, the invention is not limited to this and could also be be used in so-called squares. The size of the used Gemstone is capped by the possibility of a suitable one To produce version 2. On the other hand, stones with a diameter of more than 4 mm not required by the market.

Claims (3)

  1. An item of hollow jewellery having at least one precious stone which is fitted into the galvanically produced wall thereof and which is held fast by galvanically applied material characterised in that a setting (2) of metal sheet which surrounds the precious stone (1) is arranged between the precious stone (1) and the wall (4).
  2. A set precious stone for the production of hollow jewellery according to claim 1 characterised in that the setting (2) is provided with projections (3) for engaging behind the wall (4).
  3. A set precious stone for the production of hollow jewellery according to claim 1 characterised in that the setting (2) is provided with tips (5) for insertion into a wax model (6), by the galvanic coating of which the wall (4) is formed.
EP98112032A 1997-07-18 1998-06-30 Bijou creux Expired - Lifetime EP0900533B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT44297U 1997-07-18
AT442/97U 1997-07-18
AT0044297U AT2273U1 (en) 1997-07-18 1997-07-18 CAVE JEWELERY

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0900533A2 EP0900533A2 (en) 1999-03-10
EP0900533A3 EP0900533A3 (en) 1999-07-21
EP0900533B1 true EP0900533B1 (en) 2002-11-20

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP98112032A Expired - Lifetime EP0900533B1 (en) 1997-07-18 1998-06-30 Bijou creux

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US6125516A (en)
EP (1) EP0900533B1 (en)
KR (1) KR19990013972A (en)
AT (2) AT2273U1 (en)
CZ (1) CZ289765B6 (en)
DE (1) DE59806331D1 (en)
TW (1) TW462231U (en)

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CN109744668A (en) * 2017-11-07 2019-05-14 斯沃奇集团研究和开发有限公司 Method for crimping jewel
CN111318614A (en) * 2018-12-16 2020-06-23 青岛丰和工艺品有限公司 Metal diamond-inlaid jewel ornament, method and die

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CZ2017540A3 (en) * 2017-09-14 2019-05-15 Rumares s.r.o. A method of dynamically faceting gems into jewellery
EP3479721B1 (en) * 2017-11-07 2020-05-13 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Method for crimping a stone
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109744668A (en) * 2017-11-07 2019-05-14 斯沃奇集团研究和开发有限公司 Method for crimping jewel
CN111318614A (en) * 2018-12-16 2020-06-23 青岛丰和工艺品有限公司 Metal diamond-inlaid jewel ornament, method and die

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0900533A2 (en) 1999-03-10
ATE227948T1 (en) 2002-12-15
EP0900533A3 (en) 1999-07-21
TW462231U (en) 2001-11-01
US6125516A (en) 2000-10-03
AT2273U1 (en) 1998-08-25
KR19990013972A (en) 1999-02-25
CZ289765B6 (en) 2002-04-17
DE59806331D1 (en) 2003-01-02
CZ215698A3 (en) 1999-02-17

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