US1030990A - Gem-setting. - Google Patents

Description

F. E. FARNHAM. GEM SETTING.

APPLIGATION rum) DEC. 9, 1911.

1,030,990, Y Patnted Jul 2,1912.

I \L I I FIG A FIG. 9. H941" 15 WITNESSES: A 3/ nvvsuron W M M 5. AMA; W1. A a3 ATTORNEY COLUMBIA PuNOunAPM C0.,WASHINGTON, D. C.

IINITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK E. FARNHAIVI, 0F PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND.

GEM-SETTING.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, FRANK E. FARNHAM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Providence, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Gem-Settings, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates to gem settings and to the special details of their construction as set forth in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, like refer ence letters indicate like parts.

Figure 1 is a perspective view of my improved gem setting. Fig. 2 is a view of the same as seen partly in elevation and partly in diametrical section. Fig. 3 is a view, as seen partly in elevation and partly in diametrical section, showing said setting and a gem secured in wearing position therein. Fig. 4c is a view of said setting and gem as seen in elevation. Fig. 5 is a top plan view of the gem and the prongs of the setting bent thereon. Fig. (3 is a View, partly in elevation and partly in diametrical section, showing my improved gem setting having its seat adapted to support either.

a flat or semi-oval, or other gem, which has a straight base or a faceted gem which has a pyramidal or conical base. Fig. 7 is a view of the gem setting having such a seat, as seen partly in elevation and partly in diametrical sect-ion, and shows a faceted gem mounted therein, which has a pyramidal f or conical base. Fig. 8 is a like view, showing a precious stone mounted thereln, which has a flat bottom and which is semi-oval in cross seotlon. Fig. 9 1s a like vlew, showing a precious stone mounted therein, whlch has a flat 'top and a flat bottom parallel with each other.

Fig. 10 is an isometric view and Fig. 11 is a top plan view of a modified form of my improved gem setting.

7 The distinguishing feature of my improved 7 gem setting is that it has a ring or support,

made with integral solid prongs to cramp orbend over upon the face of the gem to confine it in position. These prongs are formed from a ring-shaped blank and swaged by die-action so as to cause the metal thereof to flow, by cold pressure, in the die,

under the force of a plunger, to form a series of ridges upon and across the exterior surface of the blank, which ridges terminate,

respectively, in pointed prongs, according Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed December 9, 1911.

Patented July 2, 1912.. Serial No. 664,788.

to the matrix of the die. These prongs are afterward bent to bring'the inner surface of each parallel with the axial line of the ring, and by proper tools the circular setting thus formed can be made oval, or polygonal, or in other shapes, by die and plunger, as is well known in the art.

In Fig. 1 A represents the ring-shaped body or base of the gem setting, provided with a series of prongs B, parallel one with another. The inner surface of the body A, at and near its top, is made with an annular angularly-inclined seat C. Each prong B has a tapering base or ridge 6, whose central longitudinal line is in alinement with the central longitudinal line of the prong B.

These base ridges Z) project from the cylindrical surface of the body A in radial directions as shown. The tip of each prong B has its transverse surface 6 shaped to extend in an obtuse angle with the outer edge of the prong, so that at the extremity of said tip or terminal the angle is acute or slightly rounded. The gem is shown at D and may have facets (Z, as usual.

In Figs. 3, 4 and 7 the gem has a conical or pyramidal base cl, which may or may not be covered with foil in the well-known manner.

As seen in Fig. 3, the gem D is placed within the ring-shaped setting A and rests upon the seat C thereof. The prongs B. are then bent over into contact with the gem to cramp and secure the same in position, as illustrated in Figs. 3, 4:, 5 and 7.

The shape of the ridges b is shown in front elevation in Figs. 1 and 4E, and in side elevation in Figs. 2, 3, 6, 7, 8 and 9. It is evident that as the ridges b and prongs B stand radially outward, and as'the body or ring A of the setting is of less diameter than the diameter of the gem D, said gem is Well displayed, and a comparatively. large portion of its surface is visible, and also the edge of the gem projects considerably outside of the ring or body A, thus allowing a betterillumination of the gem, because the light can shine unobstructed through the edge thereof and the adjacent portions of the gem.

The beauty of the gem is much enhanced by reducing to a minimum the extent of the metal surface ordinarily visible, as plainly illustrated in Fig. 5. As the whole of the body or base A of the setting is so far in from the edge of the gem as to be incon- 7 is horizontal to. the central facet of the em D.

t? InFigs. 6, 7 8 and 9, the same setting is shown, with the exception that, in addition to the sloping seat C, there is provided a concentric flat annular seat F. By this con- 1 struction the setting is adapted to be used for the mounting of precious stones which have either fiat, or pyramidal, or conical bases. Thus, in Fig. 7, a faceted gem Gr is set, whose base is pyramidal. In this case the gem Gr rests upon the sloping annular seat C,but does not touch the annular fiat seat F. In Fig. 8, a precious stone H has a semi-oval top and a flat bottom. This flat bottom rests upon the flat annular seat F and not upon the sloping annular seat C.

In Fig. 9 a precious stone. I is mounted, whose top and bottom surfaces are fiat and parallel with each other. It rests upon and is supported by the flat annular seat F, but not upon the sloping annular seat C. Gem settings with these two seats are a new article of manufacture, and enable the use of the same setting with gems having bases of different kinds.

As many prongs can be made as are desired, by dies shapedfor thepurpose. Precious stones having three edges may be held by three prongsysquare or four-edged stones may. be held .by. four or eight .prongs,'and

stones having round, oval, or polygonal edges may 'have any desired number of prongs, three or more. As a modification of the gem setting shown in Fig. 1, which has a circular or ring-shaped base, the invention 7 is illustrated inFigs. l0 and 11, where is seen a square gem :setting- In Fig. 10, the base A is square and. the ridges across said base and. the projecting terminals'of those ridges are the same as in Fig.1. In Fig. 11

asquare gem D is represented, held or set in place by the'bent prongs.

In. orderto change the round or ringshaped setting represented in Fig. 1 into the square setting shown in Fig. 10, it is only necessary to subject the round, ringshaped setting tothe operation of a plunger, which is square in cross section, cooperating with a die ofcorresponding shape. Thus the ring-shaped base shownin Fig. l. is the common stock and may be provided in numbers as a jewelers finding and anew article of manufacture, to be formed into noncircular settings by means of suitable dies and plungers, and in thismanner, triangular, square, or polygonal settings may be made, or elliptical, oval, semi-oval, crescent, or other forms.

It is usual in this art, when prongs are used upon gem settings, either to form such prongs separately and to solder each one to the body of the setting (in which case, the

prongs and the body..of the setting are softened by the heat of such an operation and thereby made weak and ineflicient and non-durable.) or to form such prongs inte gral with the body portion by cutting a single blank from one piece ofsheet metal (in which case either the prong is too thick because the body portion must have rigidity and strength to performits functions, or else the body is too thin to serve its purposes, because the prongs must be flexible and able to bend into close contact with the gem).

In my improved gem setting, the body is very rigid and substantial, and the prongs are graduated in thickness, being tapered thinner toward the tip, so as to avoid any danger of catching the threads of the lace or other fabric of the garment; These prongs are easily bent to lie snug to the face of the gem, but at the place of flexure have sufficient stock to maintain whatever shape they are bent 1nto. They are especially strong, because of the swaged ridges b, and

securely confine the gem in place. The symmetrical spacing and the-tapering shape of these ridges enhance the beauty of the setting which holds the gem. I

I claim as a novel anduseful invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent: 1 j

1. The improved gem setting herein clescribed, consisting of a body portion having a series of integral, solid cold-swaged prongs extending radially across the outer surface of the body portion at right angles to the base thereof and projecting from theopposite edge of the body portion;

2. The improved gem setting herein described, consisting of a body portion having a series ofintegral, solid cold-swaged prongs, whose bases extend radially across the outer surface of the body portion at right angles to the base thereof and are radially thicker than the body portion and I whose tips project from the inner peripheral edge of the body portion and are graduated so as to be thinner toward'their outer ends.

3. The improved gem setting herein described, consisting of a body portion having a series of integral, solid, coldswaged prongs, radially arranged and extending transversely across the outer surface of the body portion at right angles to the base thereof and projecting beyond theopposite edge, such projecting part ofeach prong diminishing in thickness toward its free, outer end and there terminating with'an inwardly and radially directed, longitudinal edge, which last named edge is at an obtuse angle with the outer edge of said prong, and which angularly-directed edge, when the prong is bent to cramp a gem in position, is parallel with the outer rim of the body portion.

4:. The improved gem setting herein described, consisting of a body portion having at and near one annular edge thereof on the inner surface of the same an annular seat sloping radially toward the center of the body portion; and a series of cold-swaged solid prongs, integral with the body portion and extending across the outer surface of the body portion at right angles to the basethereof and projecting beyond said annular edge thereof.

5. The improved gem setting herein described, consisting of a body portion, having at and near one annular edge thereof on the inner surface of the same an annular seat adapted to support a gem; and a series of swaged prongs, integral with the body portion and extending across the outer surface tliereof and projecting beyond said annular e go.

6. The improved gem setting herein described, consisting of a body portion having, at and near one annular edge thereof on the inner surface of the same, two annular seats, one of which, nearest said annular edge, has a flat bottom, and the ot-her'of which is adjacent to and below the said fiat bottom of the first named seat and has an annular seat sloping radially toward the center of the body portion, and a series of cold-swa'ged prongs, integral with the body portion and extending across the outer surface thereof and projecting beyond said annular edge.

7. As a new article of manufacture, a jewelers finding consisting of a ring-shaped base having integral therewith a plurality of solid projecting gem-holding prongs in series, which are terminals of radial ridges upon the exteriorsurface of said base, integral therewith and extending at right angles, respectively, with the edges of said base.

8. In a gem setting, the combination of a body portion comprising a base of uniform thickness throughout, an integral continuous flange upon the base of less thickness that that of the base thus leaving a sloping seat along the inner surface of the base just below the bottom of said flange, and a series of cold-swaged ridges integral with said base and flange and extending transversely upon the outer surface of said base and flange and terminating above said flange in gem-setting prongs.

9. The improved gem setting herein described,consisting of aring-sliaped base having at one outer edge thereof an integral continuous flange and provided on its inner surface with two seats one of which contiguous to said flange has a fiat bottom and the other of which adjacent to said fiat bottom has an inwardly sloping seat; and a series of cold-swaged prongs integral with said base and extending across the outer surface thereof and projecting beyond the said flange.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

J osnrrr P. WHITAKER, LILLIAN BARRETT.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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