EP0411656B1 - Pièce thermosoudable en matière synthétique à insérer dans des chemises - Google Patents

Pièce thermosoudable en matière synthétique à insérer dans des chemises Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0411656B1
EP0411656B1 EP90114962A EP90114962A EP0411656B1 EP 0411656 B1 EP0411656 B1 EP 0411656B1 EP 90114962 A EP90114962 A EP 90114962A EP 90114962 A EP90114962 A EP 90114962A EP 0411656 B1 EP0411656 B1 EP 0411656B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
insert
shirt
field according
fabric
warp
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP90114962A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0411656A1 (fr
Inventor
Georg Kufner
Josef Kufner
Günter Dr. Schulz
Rainer Dr. Weckmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Original Assignee
Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kufner Textilwerke GmbH filed Critical Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Publication of EP0411656A1 publication Critical patent/EP0411656A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0411656B1 publication Critical patent/EP0411656B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00Collars
    • A41B3/10Collars chemically stiffened
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • A41D27/06Stiffening-pieces
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/33Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/513Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads heat-resistant or fireproof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • D10B2321/021Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polyethylene
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/06Details of garments
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/2481Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24826Spot bonds connect components

Definitions

  • the invention relates generically to a woven fabric which is used as an insert in the shirt area, synthetic fibers being used as area-forming warp and weft threads and at least partially crimped yarns made from synthetic fibers as weft threads, the finished fabric being bonded to other textile materials with a heat-sealable adhesive based on copolyesters and / or low-pressure polyethylene is coated in a dot pattern with a dot density of 93-217 points / cm2 (600-1400 points / inch2).
  • the inserts can consist of nonwovens, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics or combination products thereof, such as knitted nonwovens.
  • the inlays have the task of shaping and stabilizing the garment in such a way that the bounce, resilience, shape stability, etc. of the outer fabric correspond to the wishes and fashion trends.
  • the exemplary embodiment cited in the cited application describes an insert which consists of a cotton chain and a shrunk double weft of high-density yarn made of polyacrylonitrile fiber.
  • the combination of natural or regenerated fibers in the warp with synthetic fibers in the weft in the form of a woven fabric, which is then coated in a dot pattern with heat-sealable adhesive made of copolyamides, must therefore be counted among the sufficiently known prior art.
  • the invention is therefore based on the object of designing a generic insert such that it no longer has all the disadvantages described.
  • Polyester is known as a shrink-resistant and washable or cleaning-resistant material in the textile sector.
  • the registration also takes into account the use of a polyester yarn in the warp direction. Polyester yarns made of multifilaments and staple fibers are suitable for this.
  • a further embodiment of the invention is a fabric which has filaments of different polymer composition in the warp and / or weft yarn. This means that, for example, the warp yarn is made of a different polymer than the weft yarn.
  • a multifilament warp yarn or weft yarn consists of a mixture of different polymeric individual filaments.
  • the warp yarn can also consist of a polymer and the weft yarn can consist of a polymer mixture.
  • polymer yarns with a low proportion of natural fibers can also be used.
  • the invention also provides for different colors to be used in weft and warp yarn. This does not rule out that the warp yarn itself or the weft yarn also consists of a color combination, caused by differently colored individual filaments.
  • the invention also takes into account an insert in the shirt area which is marked in the warp and / or weft yarn.
  • Both an optical brightener and an X-ray contrast medium as well as metal fibers etc. can be used as the marking.
  • the function of the marking is to identify the quality, Location, conductivity, etc. This can be of interest for the production of the insert in the quality control area or for later use.
  • the marking can relate to single filaments in warp and weft yarn as well as individual fibers and fiber areas.
  • the invention also provides for the insert to be manufactured as a flame-retardant article. There is a possibility that either the fibers themselves or the finished fabric will be given a flame-resistant finish, or that a flame-resistant finish will be sought through the pre-selection of suitable materials.
  • microfibers There is a tendency to observe an increase in the finer monofilaments in the market, which are below 1 dtex in fiber fineness. These materials are assigned to the so-called microfibers. Fabrics made from microfibers show a very supple behavior. Fabrics made from microfibers that meet the requirements of the invention can also be used advantageously as an insert in the shirt area.
  • Punctiform coatings have proven to be particularly advantageous in the area of the inserts.
  • Various methods have been established for the application of punctiform coatings, so that all the known methods can also be used for coating woven shirt inserts designed according to the invention. This includes the process of powder point coating, paste point coating or paste point coating with subsequent application of scatter powder before the thermal treatment. The latter method, also called double-spot method, is described in more detail in German patent application P 2214236.
  • a very serious advantage of the new fully synthetic shirt insert is that the woven raw material does not require any special treatment steps, but can be coated directly with a heat-sealable adhesive.
  • the shrinkage stabilization treatments with reactive synthetic resins and sanforizing processes are completely eliminated.
  • a calendering process can be carried out. This calendering process flattens the existing points and also widens the area of the shirt insert covered with adhesive.
  • a dot pattern coating of 93-217 points / cm2 (600-1400 points / inch2) is carried out. The subsequent calendering has also shown to improve the product. The penetration through the shirt fabric is avoided.
  • an application weight for the synthetic fabric insert with adhesive applied on one side has been found to be between 13 and 30 g / m2 and preferably already between 15 and 20 g / m2 to ensure the required washing safety of the cleaning association.
  • the invention also provides for coating an insert not only on one side but also on both sides. This is not yet a standard method, but it can expand the range of applications for special requirements.
  • the shirt insert according to the invention represents progress which, after years of trying around with other inserts, was no longer to be expected.
  • the harmony between the shirt outer fabric and the insert created by the design of the insert according to the invention leads to such a great improvement in the product that a large economic field of use can be expected.
  • the saving of process steps in the manufacture of the insert according to the invention inevitably results in considerable advantages compared to cotton inserts previously used. These advantages are manifested not only in a reduction in the number of processing steps, but also in the elimination of chemically contaminated waste water and steaming. This environmental aspect should represent a further driving force for the increased use of the shirt insert according to the invention.
  • the insert according to the invention was designed for use in shirts.
  • Such an insert can, however, also be used in similar applications.
  • the fabric 1 shows a schematic embodiment of the shirt insert according to the invention.
  • the fabric 1 consists of multifilament polyester warp threads 2 and weft threads made of crimped yarn 3.
  • the fabric is coated on the side facing away from the viewer with a heat-sealable adhesive in a dot matrix and then calendered.
  • Shirt insert coated with heat sealable adhesive of the following type: Type of binding: Linen weave Warp yarn: Polyester 78/24 dtex, optically brightened Weft: Polyester 76/24 dtex textured, optically brightened Ready shot density: 200-205 per 10cm Warp thread density: 361 on a width of 10 cm Coating: Powder point made from low pressure polyethylene powder Post-treatment of the coating: Calenders Order weight: 16-20 g / m2 Shrink: Insert fixed against itself, after a 90 ° C wash, shrinkage ⁇ 1.5% in warp and weft Total weight: approx. 80 g / m2.
  • the inserts were fixed against each other at a joint temperature of approx. 145 ° C for approx. 15 s and a pressure of 2000 p / cm2.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Nanotechnology (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Wrappers (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (16)

  1. Structure plate en textile tissé représentant une pièce d' insert en chemiserie, caractérisée en ce que l'on utilise comme fils de chaîne et de trame constituants la surface des fibres synthétiques et comme fils de trame au moins partiellement des fils frisés en fibres synthétiques, et en ce que le tissu synthétique est recouvert d'une masse adhésive, permettant un scellement à chaud, à base de copolyester et/ou de polyéthylène basse pression, dans la trame des points, avec une densité de points de 93 à 217 points/cm² (600 à 1400 points/pouce²).
  2. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le fil de trame est en polyester texturé.
  3. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon la revendication 1 et 2, caractérisée en ce que le fil de trame est en polyacrylnitrile à valeur tampon élevée.
  4. Pièce d' insert en chemiserie, selon la revendication 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que le fil de chaîne est en polyester.
  5. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que le fil de chaîne et/ou le fil de trame sont en filaments ayant des compositions de polymère différentes.
  6. Pièce d' insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que le fil de chaîne et/ou le fil de trame sont en filaments de couleurs identiques ou différentes.
  7. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que le tissu est coloré à la couleur des chemises, au stade du produit terminé.
  8. Pièce d' insert en chemiserie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que les fils de chaîne et/ou de trame sont marqués.
  9. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que les fibres elles-mêmes ou le tissu terminé sont traités pour être résistant à la flamme.
  10. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce que le monofilament individuel présente dans le fil de chaîne et/ou de trame une valeur inférieure à 1 dtex, pouvant donc être associé aux microfibres.
  11. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisée en ce que la masse adhésive thermoscellable est appliquée sur le tissu au moyen d'un revêtement ponctuel par poudre, d'un revêtement ponctuel par pâte, d'un revêtement ponctuel par pâte avec ensuite application dispersée de poudre, avant le traitement thermique.
  12. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisée en ce que la masse adhésive thermoscellable est appliquée directement sur un tissu brut n'ayant pas subi de traitement particulier.
  13. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est encore calandrée, après application par points de la masse adhésive thermoscellable.
  14. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisée en ce que la quantité de revêtement appliquée sur une face se situe dans la plage allant de 13 à 30 g/m², de préférence 15 à 24 g/m².
  15. Pièce d'insert en chemiserie, selon l'une des revendications 1 à 14, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est revêtue sur les deux faces, en suivant une trame par points.
  16. Utilisation de la pièce selon une ou plusieurs des revendications 1 à 15 précédentes, pour des chemises.
EP90114962A 1989-08-04 1990-08-03 Pièce thermosoudable en matière synthétique à insérer dans des chemises Expired - Lifetime EP0411656B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3925893A DE3925893A1 (de) 1989-08-04 1989-08-04 Vollsynthetische heisssiegelfaehige hemdeinlage
DE3925893 1989-08-04

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0411656A1 EP0411656A1 (fr) 1991-02-06
EP0411656B1 true EP0411656B1 (fr) 1994-05-18

Family

ID=6386554

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90114962A Expired - Lifetime EP0411656B1 (fr) 1989-08-04 1990-08-03 Pièce thermosoudable en matière synthétique à insérer dans des chemises

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US5075151A (fr)
EP (1) EP0411656B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPH0382845A (fr)
KR (1) KR0148576B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1050063A (fr)
AT (1) ATE105878T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE3925893A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2053033T3 (fr)

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CN101496649B (zh) * 2009-02-25 2012-04-25 江苏三泰轻工科技有限公司 压烫粘合后热熔胶能向面料转移的服装衬布
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CN104169480B (zh) 2012-01-24 2017-09-19 耐克创新有限合伙公司 三维编织系统
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CN104544648B (zh) * 2015-01-16 2016-04-06 南通海汇科技发展有限公司 一种高支高目纯棉机织粘合衬及其生产方法
JP2019094585A (ja) * 2017-11-21 2019-06-20 島田商事株式会社 衣類の製造方法
DE102022104401A1 (de) 2022-02-24 2023-08-24 Gebauer Verwaltungs-GmbH Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes für ein Bekleidungsartikel

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2053033T3 (es) 1994-07-16
KR0148576B1 (ko) 1998-12-01
KR910004128A (ko) 1991-03-28
DE3925893A1 (de) 1991-02-07
US5075151A (en) 1991-12-24
DE59005718D1 (de) 1994-06-23
CN1050063A (zh) 1991-03-20
EP0411656A1 (fr) 1991-02-06
JPH0382845A (ja) 1991-04-08
ATE105878T1 (de) 1994-06-15
DE3925893C2 (fr) 1991-08-01

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