EP0345176A1 - Express-Bandschlinge für das Bergsteigen - Google Patents

Express-Bandschlinge für das Bergsteigen Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0345176A1
EP0345176A1 EP19890420190 EP89420190A EP0345176A1 EP 0345176 A1 EP0345176 A1 EP 0345176A1 EP 19890420190 EP19890420190 EP 19890420190 EP 89420190 A EP89420190 A EP 89420190A EP 0345176 A1 EP0345176 A1 EP 0345176A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
loop
fastener
carabiner
quick coupler
coupler according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19890420190
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0345176B1 (de
Inventor
Pierre Petzl
Paul Petzl
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
CAMBIO RAGIONE SOCIALE;ZEDEL
Original Assignee
Petzl SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Petzl SA filed Critical Petzl SA
Publication of EP0345176A1 publication Critical patent/EP0345176A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0345176B1 publication Critical patent/EP0345176B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a quick coupler used in climbing for attachment to a fixed anchor point arranged along the wall of a rock or cliff, said fastener being shaped into a ring by means of a flexible strap, the opposite ends of which are joined together by a seam, the attachment of the fastener to the anchor point being effected by means of a first fastening carabiner trapped in a loop of the fastener.
  • Quick couplers with carabiners are commonly used by solo climbers in self-belaying, and by the first of the rope in the case of belaying the first by the second.
  • the climber hooks each fastener into the opening of a piton or an anchor plate as it advances in the direction of climb.
  • the attachment of the clip necessarily requires the climber to grip the carabiner, followed by its introduction into the piton.
  • a possible grip of the fastener at the level of the strap causes a fall by pivoting of the carabiner under the effect of gravity, causing a certain delay in positioning the fastener, to the detriment of the safety of the climber.
  • the object of the invention is to provide an express strap and carabiner attachment allowing rapid installation to an anchorage, regardless of the place of grip by the climber.
  • the fastener according to the invention is characterized in that retaining means cooperate with the fastener to apply the two elementary strands of the loop one against the other to reduce the play and stiffen the connection with the first carabiner.
  • the absence of play prevents the fall by pivoting the carabiner under the effect of gravity, and facilitates the attachment of the fastener to the anchor point.
  • the grip of the fastener at the level of the strap has various advantages for the climber: - better safety due to the speed and the precision of the attachment to the bolts or to the anchoring plates; - possibility of maximum spacing of the anchor points along the rock wall.
  • the retaining means are formed by an elastic ring, made captive of the strap at the level of the loop, the maintenance in an adjoining position of the two strands of the loop resulting from the elasticity of the ring surrounding said strands.
  • the elastic ring is made of elastomer, and is advantageously introduced on the strap during the manufacture of the fastener, prior to the implementation of the seam.
  • the strands of the loop are held tight against each other by the elasticity effect of the ring.
  • the retaining means comprise inside the loop, a first gripping coating cooperating by adhesion with a second coating conjugated during the pinching of the loop.
  • the adhesion can result either from a mechanical coupling of the two coatings coming into contact with one another, or by gluing action.
  • the holding in the tight position of the elementary strands of the loop results from a purely mechanical action, either of a blocking slide integrated into the fastener, or of an insulating or metallic clamping piece added by stapling or clipping around the loop.
  • the retaining means advantageously include a protruding protruding part which maintains a predetermined spacing of the fastener with the rock.
  • the projecting part can be constituted by a base of a hollow jumper intended to cover the end of the loop. This rider is mounted captive when the carabiner is put in place, and serves both as an elastic strand holding member and as an anti-wear member.
  • FIG. 1 shows the use of a plurality of quick or express fasteners 10, successively hooked at different anchor points 12,14,16, fixed, in particular pitons or hooking plates, staggered at predetermined intervals on along the wall 18 of a rock or a cliff.
  • Each fastener 10 comprises at one of its ends a first carabiner 20 for fixing intended to secure the fastener 10 to an anchor point 12,14,16 ..., and a second carabiner 22 at the opposite end for the passage of a belay rope 24.
  • the upper strand 26 of the rope 24 is attached to the harness (not shown) of the first of the rope, and the lower strand 28 is controlled either directly by the second of the rope in the case of the belaying of the first by the second, or by through a self-locking device in the case of self-belay.
  • Each fastener 10 is put in place by the first of the rope during its progression in the direction of the climb.
  • the climber hooks the first carabiner 20 to the corresponding anchor point, and then passes the rope 24 through the second carabiner 22. This climbing technique is commonly used by climbers alone or first of the rope.
  • each quick coupler 10 is made by means of a flexible polyamide strap 30 shaped into a ring by means of an intermediate seam 32 joining the two opposite ends of the strap 30 together.
  • the result is two adjacent loops 34, 36 separated from each other by the seam 32.
  • One of the loops 34 of the fastener 10 is intended to receive the first fastening carabiner 20 used to equip the fixed anchor points 12,14,16.
  • the other adjacent loop 36 serves to receive the second carabiner 22 for the introduction of the rope 24.
  • the loop 34 for hooking the first carabiner 20 comprises retaining means, formed according to the embodiment of FIGS. 2 to 5, by an elastic ring 38 intended to reduce the play between the loop 34 and the carabiner 20.
  • the elastic ring 38 is trapped on the strap 30 before the operation of sewing the fastener 10.
  • the ring 38 is wound in one or more turns around the loop 34 (see Figure 4), so as to apply elastically the two elementary strands of the loop 34 one against the other ( Figure 5 ) to remove the play with the carabiner 20.
  • the elasticity of the ring 38 allows such mounting after opening the finger of the carabiner 20.
  • the absence of play prevents the fall by pivoting of the carabiner 20 under the effect of gravity, and facilitates the attachment of the fastener 10 to the anchor point 12,14,16.
  • the ring 38 can be constituted by an elastomer O-ring having a high mechanical resistance independently of the temperature variations.
  • the means for retaining the carabiner 20 in the loop 34 comprise a first gripping coating 40 cooperating by adhesion with a second coating 42 conjugated during the pinching of the loop 34 (see arrows F in FIG. 7).
  • the two gripping coatings 40, 42 are formed by strips sewn beforehand on the strap 30 at the level of the internal walls of the loop 34.
  • the means for retaining the carabiner 20 are formed by a blocking slide 44 capable of sliding along the fastener 10 to reduce the clearance between the loop 34 and the carabiner 20.
  • the face internal of the slide 44 is fitted with locking pins 46 which become encrusted in the locking position (FIG. 9) in the external walls of the strap 30.
  • the slide 44 then occupies a stable position which tends to stiffen the connection of the fastener 10 with the carabiner 20.
  • the passage of the slide 44 from the unlocking position (not shown) to the locking position (FIGS. 8 and 9), and vice versa, takes place manually by a bidirectional translational movement, of approximation and d respectively. with the carabiner 20.
  • the other loop 36 of the fastener 10 can also be provided with retaining means according to the invention.
  • the retaining means according to FIG. 10 can also be constituted by separate clamping parts 50 attached around the corresponding loop 34, 36 of the fastener 10 by stapling or by clipping. These parts can be produced by molding a plastic material, and have a predetermined elasticity.
  • the outer periphery of the elastic ring 38 is equipped with protruding protrusions 52 intended to separate the strap 30 from the rock.
  • the wear of the strap 30 by friction against the rock is thus excluded.
  • the presence of the protrusions 52 generates an interval with the rock which on the other hand facilitates the gripping of the carabiner 20.
  • an anti-wear coating 54 surrounds the outside of the loop 34 to protect the strap 30 at the point of wear with the rock.
  • the anti-wear coating 54 is formed by an elastomer protective band held by the elastic ring 38 of FIG. 2.
  • a jumper 56 of molded elastomeric material covers the end of the loop 34, and has in its median zone an orifice 58 for the passage of the carabiner 20.
  • the jumper 56 is hollow and is provided with a projecting base 60 intended to avoid contact of the strap 30 with the rock.
  • the installation of the jumper 56 is effected by insertion on the loop 34, followed by the introduction of the carabiner 20 into the orifice 58.
  • the jumper 56 is then mounted captive, and on the one hand ensures by its elasticity the approximation of the two elementary strands of the loop 34, and on the other hand the protection against wear due to the presence of the base 60.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Hooks, Suction Cups, And Attachment By Adhesive Means (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)
EP19890420190 1988-06-03 1989-06-01 Express-Bandschlinge für das Bergsteigen Expired - Lifetime EP0345176B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8807521 1988-06-03
FR8807521A FR2632195B1 (fr) 1988-06-03 1988-06-03 Attache rapide a sangle pour l'escalade

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0345176A1 true EP0345176A1 (de) 1989-12-06
EP0345176B1 EP0345176B1 (de) 1991-08-21

Family

ID=9366993

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19890420190 Expired - Lifetime EP0345176B1 (de) 1988-06-03 1989-06-01 Express-Bandschlinge für das Bergsteigen

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0345176B1 (de)
DE (1) DE68900215D1 (de)
ES (1) ES2025377B3 (de)
FR (1) FR2632195B1 (de)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1998001188A1 (fr) * 1996-07-09 1998-01-15 Pierre Colombet Attache a sangle a frein integre pour l'assurage utilisee notamment en escalade
EP0970726A2 (de) * 1998-07-06 2000-01-12 Teufelberger Gesellschaft m.b.H. Einrichtung zum Fixieren eines durch eine Bandschlinge gesteckten Gegenstandes
ITMI20130400A1 (it) * 2013-03-18 2014-09-19 Camp Spa Dispositivo di serraggio di una fettuccia su un moschettone
US8973509B2 (en) 2011-09-12 2015-03-10 Zedel Method for manufacturing a strap ring for climbing activities, from a tubular fabric axially cut up
ITUB20151777A1 (it) * 2015-07-01 2017-01-01 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo di trattenuta in posizione di un moschettone in un’asola di una fettuccia.

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2796424B2 (es) 2020-05-31 2020-12-18 Unda Garcia Alejandro Dispositivo de unión de conectores mecánicos para la escalada

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE860922C (de) * 1951-04-19 1952-12-29 Helge Fabian Rost Klammer zum Bilden von Rippen und/oder Verbinden der Enden oder Abschnitte eines endlosen Foerderbandes
DE2114207A1 (de) * 1971-03-24 1972-09-28 Hans Baur Lastentragband
FR2358500A1 (fr) * 1976-07-13 1978-02-10 Robert Felix Mordaches pour estrope
DE2842008A1 (de) * 1978-09-27 1980-04-10 Claus Ing Grad Benk Steigschlinge
EP0239903A1 (de) * 1986-03-29 1987-10-07 Stefan Engers Karabinerhaken, insbesondere für Bergsteiger
DE3712227A1 (de) * 1987-04-10 1988-10-27 Stefan Dipl Ing Engers Seilsicherung fuer ein bergsteiger-kletterseil

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE860922C (de) * 1951-04-19 1952-12-29 Helge Fabian Rost Klammer zum Bilden von Rippen und/oder Verbinden der Enden oder Abschnitte eines endlosen Foerderbandes
DE2114207A1 (de) * 1971-03-24 1972-09-28 Hans Baur Lastentragband
FR2358500A1 (fr) * 1976-07-13 1978-02-10 Robert Felix Mordaches pour estrope
DE2842008A1 (de) * 1978-09-27 1980-04-10 Claus Ing Grad Benk Steigschlinge
EP0239903A1 (de) * 1986-03-29 1987-10-07 Stefan Engers Karabinerhaken, insbesondere für Bergsteiger
DE3712227A1 (de) * 1987-04-10 1988-10-27 Stefan Dipl Ing Engers Seilsicherung fuer ein bergsteiger-kletterseil

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1998001188A1 (fr) * 1996-07-09 1998-01-15 Pierre Colombet Attache a sangle a frein integre pour l'assurage utilisee notamment en escalade
FR2750872A1 (fr) * 1996-07-09 1998-01-16 Colombet Pierre Attache a sangle a frein integre pour l'assurage utilisee notamment en escalade
EP0970726A2 (de) * 1998-07-06 2000-01-12 Teufelberger Gesellschaft m.b.H. Einrichtung zum Fixieren eines durch eine Bandschlinge gesteckten Gegenstandes
EP0970726A3 (de) * 1998-07-06 2000-04-12 Teufelberger Gesellschaft m.b.H. Einrichtung zum Fixieren eines durch eine Bandschlinge gesteckten Gegenstandes
US8973509B2 (en) 2011-09-12 2015-03-10 Zedel Method for manufacturing a strap ring for climbing activities, from a tubular fabric axially cut up
ITMI20130400A1 (it) * 2013-03-18 2014-09-19 Camp Spa Dispositivo di serraggio di una fettuccia su un moschettone
ITUB20151777A1 (it) * 2015-07-01 2017-01-01 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo di trattenuta in posizione di un moschettone in un’asola di una fettuccia.
WO2017002090A1 (en) * 2015-07-01 2017-01-05 Aludesign S.P.A. Retaining device to retain in position a karabiner in a loop of a sling

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE68900215D1 (de) 1991-09-26
ES2025377B3 (es) 1992-03-16
FR2632195B1 (fr) 1991-08-30
FR2632195A1 (fr) 1989-12-08
EP0345176B1 (de) 1991-08-21

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