Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A43—FOOTWEAR
  • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
  • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
  • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
  • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
  • A43B23/0255—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by gluing or thermo bonding
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A43—FOOTWEAR
  • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
  • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
  • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
  • A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
  • A43B23/021—Leather
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
  • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
  • C14C11/00—Surface finishing of leather
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10S428/904—Artificial leather

Definitions

• the invention relates to the shaping of leather, more particularly for the manufacture of shoe uppers.
• the upper comprises a leather support material covered with a layer of poromeric polyurethane.
• FR-A-2 507 444 describes a hunting rod made of a material other than leather welded to a sole by a high-frequency current and a method for obtaining this set.
• shoes are made by assembling a shoe upper with a sole; for this assembly, the upper is placed on a shape, one face of which adjacent to the edge of the upper acts as a wall of a molding cavity into which the plastic material intended to constitute the sole is injected, thus secured to the upper by its edge during the very molding; or else the rod having been placed on the form and coated with an adhesive on its edge, the sole is applied to it, in leather or in plastic, thus assembled with the rod by gluing or welding.
• the shoe manufacturer receives hides from the tanner from which he cuts the uppers. Before delivery, however, the tanner treats the leather by applying the finishing layer desired by the manufacturer to give the upper the desired end look for the shoe upper, from the point of view of color and / or view of the surface finish.
• the invention relates in particular to a process which, taking the opposite of what has been proposed hitherto, namely to eliminate, before joining with the sole, the product received by the skin, provides to bring on the latter a deposit chosen to obtain the desired final effect, namely a bonding of the leather thus treated with the sole at least as good as with a leather stripped of all products by glassing or carding.
• the process is particularly advantageous for the production of sports shoes, such as jogging or training shoes, in which the leather constituting the upper must be light in color, even white, the irregularities in the glassing or carding then being unacceptable, especially when the sole includes a peripheral projection intended to partially cover the upper.
• a deposit adhering to the leather is formed on the surface of the leather, by adding material, allowing, without carding or locking the leather, the attachment of a leather shoe upper thus treated with a sole, either by direct injection of the material of the sole, either by welding or gluing on a prefabricated sole.
• the shoe manufacturer thus has no prior operation to perform on the leather delivered to him by the tanner, after having undergone the surface treatment according to the invention. Furthermore, the latter does not imply an increase in cost for the tanner, since this treatment replaces the finishing operations which were previously necessary to obtain the surface appearance and the mechanical properties of the leather which are desired by the shoe manufacturer. .
• the deposit is formed on the surface of the leather by a multiplicity of superimposed layers, each of which is chosen to be adherent to the underlying layer.
• the leather receives a prefond, constituted by a polyurethane emulsion containing pigments and a crosslinking agent, in a sufficiently diluted form, as presented by the acrylic prefonds usually used to ensure its good impregnation in the dermis.
• the process provides, before the introduction of the prefond, a synthetic retanning of the skin using chemicals usually used by the tanner, such as condensed phenolic sulfonated and anionic derivatives, phosphoric esters and polyglycol esters, etc. , excluding all products of plant or animal origin.
• chemicals usually used by the tanner such as condensed phenolic sulfonated and anionic derivatives, phosphoric esters and polyglycol esters, etc. , excluding all products of plant or animal origin.
• the bond between the prefond and the fibers of the leather is then not only mechanical, but the adhesion is considerably increased by the chemical bonds of the hydrogen type occurring between the polyurethane binder of the prefond and certain functional groups of the retanning product.
• the method also provides that it will very advantageously be possible to sand the skin flower before the introduction of the prelude.
• the skin receives an "inter" which has a composition similar to that of the foreground, but which is of a greater concentration both in emulsion and in pigments, the emulsion also being added with crosslinking agent.
• the skin thus treated is subjected to a first hot plating to ensure complete chemical crosslinking of the two layers thus provided and also perfect adhesion and cohesion of the leather assembly, in and out, while preparing the desired surface appearance. for the upper of the shoe.
• a surface finish layer is then applied, which consists of a dissolution in the solvent phase of a polyurethane resin, of pigment and of a crosslinking agent.
• the appearance of this finish can be glossy or satin. It adheres well to leather due to the prior treatment of the latter.
• the leather is ready for delivery by the tanner to the shoe manufacturer.
• composition is as follows (by weight): dry extract # 21.5%
• composition is as follows (by weight): dry extract # 54.7%
• composition is as follows (by weight): dry extract * 13.5%
• shoe uppers with the external appearance of leather are produced from sheet materials of which at least the face facing outwards is not of leather, such as fabrics coated with polyvinyl chloride or plastisols lined with a fabric or split leather previously glued.
• the imprint of a model obtained by flattening a leather shoe stem from the disassembly of a shoe is taken.
• a sheet of the type mentioned above is placed on which it is desired to give the appearance of natural leather in the mold thus produced and the sheet is passed through by a high-frequency electric current, which causes the sheet to soften or melt. , the surface of which then follows the irregularities of the mold wall and thus acquires the surface configuration of the natural leather upper which has been imprinted.
• a high frequency current also allows the heat sealing, on the face of the sheet facing outwards, of appliques or reinforcements made of a material having suitable dielectric properties.
• sconces or reinforcements are usually placed in corresponding housings of the mold, these housings having been advantageously provided by the imprints of sconces or reinforcements present on the natural leather upper used as a model.
• the mold containing the sheet to be treated and, if necessary, the appliques or reinforcements to be placed are placed between two electrically conductive plates and a high frequency current is passed through. between the two plates through the mold and its contents.
• upper is used here to denote both a part of the finished shoe and a cut sheet intended to constitute, after shaping, this part of the shoe.
• Another object of the invention is then to allow the application, to the uppers of leather shoes, of the high frequency process, and this with the same economic advantages as those which it presents in its known application to uppers of synthetic materials .
• the appliques and / or reinforcements can be made of synthetic materials having a suitable dielectric permeability, for example plastisols, polyvinyl chloride and vinyl copolymers, as in the prior art.
• the invention further provides for putting in place leather appliques and / or reinforcements, after their face turned towards what will constitute the shoe upper, whether the latter is made of a sheet material other than leather, or in treated leather, has also been subjected to the surface treatment defined above.
• the face to be decorated should also have undergone the surface treatment described above.
• a decoration is for example an imitation of seams, obtained by taking the imprint of a model comprising appliques and / or reinforcements fixed by seams.
• the invention provides, in the implementation of the high-frequency process to take into account the fact that the resistivity of the leather is a function of the tanning conditions and the humidity level, and can be very high, to compensate for the resistivity of the leather by reducing that of the mold, for example by incorporating into the constituent material of the latter conductive particles such as metal powder particles.
• a shoe upper having undergone the surface treatment according to the invention can be directly secured to a sole, either that it is mounted on a form forming part of 'A mold which receives the sole in PU, TR, PVC, etc., by injection, as usual, either that, on a form, a previously manufactured sole is attached to it by bonding or welding.
• no treatment of the leather by the shoe manufacturer is necessary and, in particular, no glazing or carding, and the adhesion of the sole takes place over the entire surface in contact with the leather, in the case of an injected sole, or over the entire surface of the leather which will have received the glue, in the case of a glued or welded sole.
• the manufacture of the shoe is simplified. Rejects are avoided as well as rework.
• the cost price of the set is reduced.
• the invention also provides that the treatment of the face of the leather intended to be turned towards the exterior comprises the application not of three layers, as described above, but of only two layers, the prelude or the inter being omitted. Such treatment is provided, whether or not the leather thus treated is intended to be subjected subsequently to the high-frequency shaping treatment.
• the invention also provides a surface treatment of the leather which comprises the application to the leather of a single layer, then relatively large, in the foreground to allow shaping of the leather analogous to that of the leather to which three successive layers have been applied. as described above.
• the invention also relates to a shoe upper, the manufacture of which uses the shaping process which has just been defined, and a shoe comprising such a upper.
• the invention applies to the different kinds of leather used in the shoe industry, both those called “skin” and those called “crust”. It finds a particularly interesting application for the manufacture of sports shoes.
• the invention also applies in fields other than that of shoe uppers, in particular for the use of leather in clothing, furniture, luggage, saddlery. It also generally provides for the application of high frequency treatment for the assembly of leather elements after they have undergone an appropriate surface treatment or for their welding to themselves after folding.

Landscapes

• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Zoology (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Materials Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Organic Chemistry (AREA)
• Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
• Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)

Priority Applications (1)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Publications (3)

Family

ID=26223678

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (13)

Families Citing this family (10)

Family Cites Families (12)

• 1984
  • 1984-11-14 KR KR1019850700127A patent/KR880001826B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1984-11-14 DE DE8484402324T patent/DE3481267D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1984-11-14 WO PCT/FR1984/000261 patent/WO1985002095A2/fr unknown
  • 1984-11-14 BR BR8407171A patent/BR8407171A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1984-11-14 EP EP84402324A patent/EP0145560B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1984-11-14 US US06/754,443 patent/US4705586A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1984-11-14 AU AU36140/84A patent/AU568171B2/en not_active Ceased
  • 1984-11-15 CA CA000467916A patent/CA1258953A/fr not_active Expired
  • 1984-11-15 PT PT79502A patent/PT79502B/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1984-11-15 MX MX203402A patent/MX163029B/es unknown
  • 1984-11-16 OA OA58443A patent/OA07866A/xx unknown
  • 1984-11-16 ES ES537732A patent/ES8603252A1/es not_active Expired
  • 1984-11-16 NZ NZ210229A patent/NZ210229A/en unknown

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