CN1925831A - 用取代脲进行稳定化以抵抗个人护理品变色 - Google Patents
用取代脲进行稳定化以抵抗个人护理品变色 Download PDFInfo
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- CN1925831A CN1925831A CNA200480041789XA CN200480041789A CN1925831A CN 1925831 A CN1925831 A CN 1925831A CN A200480041789X A CNA200480041789X A CN A200480041789XA CN 200480041789 A CN200480041789 A CN 200480041789A CN 1925831 A CN1925831 A CN 1925831A
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- urea
- unsaturates
- fatty acid
- acid
- personal care
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- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
- Fats And Perfumes (AREA)
Abstract
本发明提供了一种个人护理品,它包含一种具有至少一个烯烃双键,易降解成有色物质的不饱和有机物,一种用作稳定剂以防止生色体形成的取代脲和一种化妆品可接受的载体。所述不饱和有机物选自C10-C50萜类化合物和选自脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪酸甘油酯、脂肪酸盐、脂肪酸酯及其混合物的C12-C48不饱和脂肪族化合物。羟乙基脲是特别有效的稳定剂。
Description
本发明涉及含有不稳定成分的个人护理品,该不稳定成分被保护起来以免生成不美观的发色体。
颜色稳定性是个人护理品的一项重要美观指标。一些常用的配料容易发生光降解及/或氧化降解。这些配料中有许多含有一个或一个以上不饱和键。带共轭双键和共轭三键的结构(π体系)特别容易产生发色体。
本发明旨在提供一种能保证个人护理品颜色稳定性的体系。
发明概述
本发明提供了一种个人护理组合物,它包括:
(i)一种具有至少一个烯烃双键,容易降解成有色物质的不饱和有机物,该不饱和物选自C10-C50萜类化合物和C12-C48不饱和脂肪族化合物,所述C12-C48化合物选自脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪酸甘油酯、脂肪酸盐、脂肪酸酯和它们的混合物;
(ii)一种具有通式(I)结构的取代脲
其中R1、R2和R3选自氢、C1-C6烷基、(R5)nOH和其混合物;R5为亚甲基、亚乙基、亚丙基或其组合,n为1-6;R4为(R5)nOH;和
(iii)一种化妆品可接受的载体。
发明详述
目前已发现个人护理组合物中的某些种类的不饱和有机物能被保护起来以免降解成明显的有色物。需要稳定化的是那些含有至少一个烯烃双键的物质,如C10-C50萜类化合物和C12-C48不饱和脂肪族化合物。后者包括脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪酸盐、脂肪酸甘油酯、脂肪酸酯及其混合物。通过使用取代脲可以抑制生色。
术语“个人护理组合物”指任何施用于人体以达到美容、清洁、消除不良气味或美观修饰目的的产品。非限制性的个人护理组合物例子包括护肤水和护肤霜(leave-on skin lotions and creams)、洗发精、调理剂、沐浴胶、盥洗室用肥皂、止汗剂、除臭剂、洁齿产品、剃须膏、脱毛剂、口红、粉底、睫毛膏、防晒褐肤乳膏(sunless tanners)和防晒露。
本发明的一个重要组成要素是颜色稳定剂。这是具有通式(I)结构的取代脲:
其中R1、R2和R3选自氢、C1-C6烷基、(R5)nOH及其混合物;R5为亚甲基、亚乙基、亚丙基或其组合,n为1-6;R4为(R5)nOH。
取代脲的例子为羟甲基脲、羟乙基脲、羟丙基脲、双(羟甲基)脲、双(羟乙基)脲、双(羟丙基)脲、N,N’-二羟甲基脲、N,N’-二羟乙基脲、N,N’-二羟丙基脲、N,N,N’-三羟乙基脲、四(羟甲基)脲、四(羟乙基)脲、四(羟丙基)脲、N-甲基-N’-羟乙基脲、N-乙基-N’-羟乙基脲、N-羟丙基-N'-羟乙基脲和N,N’-二甲基-N-羟乙基脲。其中术语“羟丙基”通指3-羟基正丙基、2-羟基正丙基、3-羟基异丙基或2-羟基异丙基。最优选羟乙基脲。羟乙基脲的可得商品为卜内门化学工业公司属国家淀粉与化学品公司(the National Starch & Chemical Divisionof ICI)生产的50%含水液,商标为Hydrovance。
取代脲的含量占组合物重量的0.01-20%,优选0.1-10%,更优选1-8%,最优选3-6%w/w。
个人护理组合物中容易变色的组分是含有至少一个烯键的物质,尤其是那些含有至少两个、三个或四个烯键的物质。特别容易生成发色体的是烯键与其它烯键、炔键或芳族π键共轭的化合物。
不饱和脂肪酸或不饱和脂肪醇的衍生物容易生成发色体。术语“脂肪”指链长为C12-C48(最常见的是C12-C24)的烷基。典型的此类脂肪酸为油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸、蓖麻油酸、反油酸、岩芹酸、芥酸、棕榈油酸、肉豆蔻脑酸和12-羟基油酸。上述脂肪酸中最常用的是油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸和蓖麻油酸。不饱和脂肪醇的例子包括油醇、亚油醇、亚麻醇及其混合物。盐为脂肪酸钠、脂肪酸铵、脂肪酸钾和脂肪酸三乙醇铵。非限制性的本发明的盐例子为油酸钠、油酸钾、油酸铵、油酸三乙醇铵、亚麻酸钠、亚麻酸钾、亚麻酸铵和亚麻酸三乙醇铵。更长链的不饱和脂肪酸的例子为通常所称的共轭亚油酸。
共轭亚油酸(简称为CLA)是本发明所述的容易形成发色体的多不饱和化合物。其包括一批亚油酸的位置异构体和几何异构体,在亚油酸中可能存在位于(6,8)、(7,9)、(8,10)、(9,11)、(10,12)或(11,13)上的各种顺式和反式双键构型。这样就有24种不同的CLA异构体。术语“共轭”指相邻的双键对形成大π轨道体系。
甘油酯是又一种类的不饱和脂肪族化合物。可以是甘油单酯、甘油双酯或甘油三酯。一条、两条或三条与甘油发生酯化脂肪酸链是不饱和的。非限制性的甘油酯例子包括葵花子油、豆油、橄榄油、棉籽油、花生油、牛油果油、棕榈油、可可脂、东印度山榄科植物、琉璃苣和琉璃苣籽油、芫荽子油、亚麻子油、红花油、含共轭亚油酸残基的甘油三酯及其混合物。
根据本发明,萜类化合物是另一种不饱和有机物。萜类化合物可进一步分成醇、醚、醛、缩醛、酸、酮、酯和含有氮或硫等杂原子的萜烯化合物等种类。下表列举了萜类化合物的例子,但不限制本发明。
表1无环萜类化合物
烃类
月桂烯
罗勒烯
β-金合欢烯
醇
二氢月桂烯醇 (2,6-二甲基-7-辛烯-2-醇)
香叶醇 (3,7-二甲基-反-2,6-辛二烯-1-醇)
橙花醇 (3,7-二甲基-顺-2,6-辛二烯-1-醇)
香樟醇 (3,7-二甲基-1,6-辛二烯-3-醇)
月桂烯醇 (2-甲基-6-亚甲基-7-辛烯-2-醇)
薰衣草醇
香茅醇 (3,7-二甲基-6-辛烯-1-醇)
反-反-金合欢醇 (3,7,11-三甲基-2,6,10-十二碳三烯
-1-醇)
反-橙花叔醇 (3,7,11-三甲基-1,6,10-十二碳三烯
-3-醇)
醛和缩醛
柠檬醛 (3,7-二甲基-2,6-辛二烯-1-醛)
柠檬醛二乙缩醛 (3,7-二甲基-2,6-辛二烯-1-醛二乙
缩醛)
香茅醛 (3,7-二甲基-6-辛烯-1-醛)
香茅氧基乙醛
2,6,10-三甲基-9-十一烯醛
酮
万寿菊酮
茄酮
香叶基丙酮 (6,10-二甲基-5,9-十一碳二烯-2-
酮)
酸和酯
顺香叶酸
香茅酸
香叶酯,包括甲酸香叶酯、乙酸香叶酯、丙酸香叶酯、异丁酸香叶
酯、异戊酸香叶酯
橙花酯,包括乙酸橙花酯
芳樟酯,包括甲酸芳樟酯、乙酸芳樟酯、丙酸芳樟酯、丁酸芳樟酯、
异丁酸芳樟酯
薰衣草酯,包括乙酸薰衣草酯
香茅酯,包括甲酸香茅酯、乙酸香茅酯、丙酸香茅酯、异丁酸香茅
酯、异戊酸香茅酯、惕各酸香茅酯
含氮不饱和萜烯衍生物
顺香叶腈
香茅腈
表2环萜类化合物
烃类
烯 (1,8-对二烯)
α-萜品烯
γ-萜品烯 (1,4-对二烯)
萜品油烯
α-水芹烯 (1,5-对二烯)
β-水芹烯
α-蒎烯 (2-蒎烯)
β-蒎烯 (2(10)-蒎烯)
莰烯
3-蒈烯
石竹烯
(+)-凡伦橘烯
罗汉柏烯
α-雪松烯
β-雪松烯
长叶烯
醇和醚
(+)-新异-异胡薄荷醇
异胡薄荷醇 (8-对烯-3-醇)
α-萜品醇 (1-对烯-8-醇)
β-萜品醇
γ-萜品醇
δ-萜品醇
1-萜品烯-4-醇 (1-对烯-4-醇)
醛和酮
香芹酮 (1,8-对二烯-6-酮)
α-紫罗兰酮 (C13H20O)
β-紫罗兰酮 (C13H20O)
γ-紫罗兰酮 (C13H20O)
鸢尾酮,α-、β-、γ- (C14H22O)
正甲基紫罗兰酮,α-、β-、γ- (C14H22O)
异甲基紫罗兰酮,α-、β-、γ- (C14H22O)
烯丙基紫罗兰酮 (C16H24O)
假紫罗兰酮
正甲基假紫罗兰酮
异甲基假紫罗兰酮
大马酮 1-(2,6,6-三甲基环己烯基)-2-丁烯
-1-酮
β-大马烯酮 1-(2,6,6-三甲基-1,3-环己二烯基)
-2-丁烯-1-酮
圆柚酮 5,6-二甲基-8-异丙烯基双环[4.4.0]-
1-癸烯-3-酮
甲基柏木酮 (C17H26O)
酯
α-乙酸萜品酯 (1-对烯-8-基乙酸酯)
乙酸诺卜酯 (-)-2-(6,6-二甲基双环[3.1.1]庚-
2-烯-2-基)乙酸乙酯
Khusymil acetate
表3与萜烯结构相关的脂环族化合物
醇
5-(2,2,3-三甲基-3-环戊烯-1-基)-3-甲基戊-2-醇
醛
2,4-二甲基-3-环己烯甲醛
4-(4-甲基-3-戊烯-1-基)-3-环己烯甲醛
4-(4-羟基-4-甲基戊基)-3-环己烯甲醛
酮
灵猫酮
二氢茉莉酮 (3-甲基-2-戊基-2-环戊烯-1-酮)
顺式茉莉酮 3-甲基-2-(2-顺-戊烯-1-基)-2-环戊烯-1-酮
5-环十六碳烯-1-酮
2,3,8,8-四甲基-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-八氢-2-萘甲基酮
3-甲基-2-环戊烯-2-醇-1-酮
酯
4,7-亚甲基-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-六氢-5-(或6)-茚基乙酸酯
3-环己基丙酸烯丙酯
二氢茉莉酮酸甲酯 甲基(3-氧-2-戊基环戊基)乙酸酯
甾醇是萜类化合物的又一个子类。例如桦木酯醇(桦木酸和桦木醇)、胆固醇、谷甾醇、麦角甾醇、豆甾醇和亚油甾醇。
可引起颜色形成的不饱和物的含量为0.0001-20重量%,常用含量为0.001-10重量%,更常用含量为0.1-5重量%。
取代脲相对于不饱和物的重量比率为10,000∶1-1∶100,优选1,000∶1-1∶10,更优选500∶1-1∶5,最优选100∶1-10∶1。该比例是优选但非必要的条件。
本发明中,某些类不饱和物可表征为其碘值为20-300,优选30-200,最优选50-150。碘值通常与脂肪酸、脂肪醇、脂肪酸盐及脂肪酸甘油酯等脂族化合物相联系。
本发明组合物还包括化妆品可接受的载体。载体的含量为占组合物重量的1-99.9重量%,优选70-95重量%,最优选80-90重量%。有用的载体包括水、饱和润肤剂、饱和脂肪酸、饱和脂肪醇、保湿剂、增稠剂及其混合物。载体可以是含水载体、无水载体或是乳液。优选含水组合物,特别优选油包水(W/O)或水包油(O/W)或三重的水包油包水(W/O/W)类型的油水乳液。水的含量可以为5-95重量%,优选20-70重量%,最优选35-60重量%。
润肤剂可用作化妆品可接受的载体。润肤剂的形式可以是硅油、合成酯及烃类。润肤剂的含量占组合物重量的0.1-95重量%,优选1-50重量%。
硅油可以分成挥发性硅油和不挥发性硅油。术语“挥发性硅油”在这里指在室温下具有可测蒸气压的物质。挥发性硅油优选自含有3-9个(优选4-5个)硅原子的环状(环甲硅油)或线性聚二甲基硅氧烷。
用作润肤剂的非挥发性硅油包括聚烷基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷和聚醚硅氧烷共聚物。用于本发明的非挥发性聚烷基硅氧烷主要包括粘度(25℃)为5×10-6-0.1m2/s的聚二甲基硅氧烷。用于本发明组合物的优选非挥发性润肤剂为粘度(25℃)为1×10-5-4×10-4m2/s的聚二甲基硅氧烷。
乳化硅氧烷弹性体和非乳化硅氧烷弹性体是另一种非挥发性硅氧烷。其中典型的是二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基二甲基硅氧烷交联共聚体,其可购商品为道康宁9040、通用电气的SFE 839以及信越化学的KSG-18。Silwax WS-L(二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇月桂酸酯)等有机硅蜡也可以用。
酯类润肤剂包括:
1)具有10-24个碳原子的饱和脂肪酸烷基酯。例如新戊酸山萮酯、isononyl isonanonoate、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和硬脂酸辛酯。
2)醚-酯,如乙氧基化饱和脂肪醇的脂肪酸酯。
3)多元醇酯,合适的多元醇酯为乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和乙二醇二脂肪酸酯、二乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和二乙二醇二脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇(200-6000)单脂肪酸酯和聚乙二醇(200-6000)二脂肪酸酯、丙二醇单脂肪酸酯和丙二醇二脂肪酸酯、聚丙二醇2000单硬脂酸酯、乙氧基化丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、甘油一脂肪酸酯和甘油二脂肪酸酯、聚甘油多脂肪酸酯、乙氧基化甘油一硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇二硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯。特别有用的是C1-C30醇的季戊四醇酯、三羟甲基丙烷酯和新戊二醇酯。
4)蜡酯,如蜂蜡、鲸蜡、三山萮蜡(tribehenin wax)。
5)脂肪酸糖酯,如蔗糖聚山萮酸酯和蔗糖聚棉籽酸酯。
适合作为化妆品可接受的载体的烃类包括凡士林、矿物油、C11-C13异链烷烃、尤其是异十六烷,其可得商品为Presperse公司生产的Permethyl 101A。
具有10-30个碳原子的饱和脂肪酸也可以适用作化妆品可接受的载体。例如壬酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、异硬脂酸、羟基硬脂酸和山萮酸。
具有10-30个碳原子的脂肪醇是又一类有用的化妆品可接受的载体。例如十八烷醇、月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇和鲸蜡醇。
多元醇类保湿剂可用作化妆品可接受的载体。典型的多元醇包括甘油、聚亚烷基二醇,更优选亚烷基多元醇和它们的衍生物,包括丙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇及其衍生物、山梨糖醇、羟丙基山梨糖醇、己二醇、1,3-丁二醇、异戊二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、乙氧基化甘油、丙氧基化甘油和它们的混合物。保湿剂的含量占组合物重量的0.5-50重量%,优选1-15重量%。
增稠剂可作为本发明组合物中的化妆品可接受的载体。典型的增稠剂包括交联丙烯酸酯(如Carbopol 982)、疏水改性丙烯酸酯(如Carbopol 1382)、纤维素衍生物和天然树胶。有用的纤维素衍生物包括羧甲基纤维素钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、乙基纤维素和羟甲基纤维素。适合于本发明的天然树胶包括瓜尔胶、黄原胶、菌类植物胶、角叉菜胶、果胶及其混合物。无机物也可用作增稠剂,尤其包括膨润土和锂蒙脱石等黏土;火成二氧化硅;硅酸铝镁(Veegum)等硅酸盐。增稠剂的含量占组合物重量的0.0001-10重量%,优选0.001-1重量%,最优选0.01-0.5重量%。
本发明个人护理组合物的形式各样。可以包括露、霜、滚抹剂型、口红、摩丝、气雾剂和非气雾型喷雾剂以及织物(如无纺织物)施用剂型等形式。
本发明组合物中还可以含有表面活性剂。表面活性剂的总含量占组合物重量的0.1-40重量%,优选1-20重量%,最优选1-5重量%。表面活性剂可选自阴离子活性剂、非离子活性剂、阳离子活性剂和两性活性剂。特别优选的非离子表面活性剂带有C10-C20脂肪醇疏水物或脂肪酸疏水物,其与每摩尔疏水物2-100摩尔环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷缩合的表面活性剂;与2-20摩尔烯化氧缩合的C2-C10烷基酚;乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和乙二醇二脂肪酸酯;脂肪酸单甘油酯;脱水山梨糖醇单C8-C20脂肪酸酯和脱水山梨糖醇二C8-C20脂肪酸酯;聚氧乙烯山梨糖醇以及它们的混合物。烷基多苷和糖类脂肪酰胺(如甲基葡糖酰胺)也是合适的非离子表面活性剂。
优选的阴离子表面活性剂包括皂;烷基醚硫酸盐和烷基醚磺酸盐;烷基硫酸盐和烷基磺酸盐;烷基苯磺酸盐;烷基磺基丁二酸盐和二烷基磺基丁二酸盐;C8-C20酰基羟乙磺酸盐;C8-C20烷基醚磷酸盐;C8-C20肌氨酸盐以及它们的混合物。
本发明组合物中还可以含有防晒活性剂。特别优选的防晒剂如对甲氧肉桂酸乙基己酯(可得商品为Parsol MCX);丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(Avobenzene,可得商品为Parsol 1789)和二苯甲酮-3(又称羟苯甲酮)。可以使用的无机防晒活性剂如超细二氧化钛;氧化锌;聚乙烯和其它多种聚合物。防晒剂的含量一般占组合物重量的0.1-30重量%,优选2-20重量%,最优选4-10重量%。
在本发明化妆品组合物中使用防腐剂有利于防止潜在有害微生物的生长。适用于本发明组合物的传统防腐剂为对羟基苯甲酸烷基酯。新近开始使用的其它防腐剂包括乙内酰脲衍生物;丙酸盐和各种季铵化合物。化妆品化学家熟知合适的防腐剂以及利用常规方法选择防腐剂以满足防腐试验要求和保证产品的稳定性。特别优选的防腐剂为苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、咪唑烷基脲、脱氢乙酸钠和苄醇。选择防腐剂时应考虑到组合物的用途以及防腐剂与乳液中其它成分之间可能存在的不相容性。防腐剂的优选含量为组合物重量的0.01-2重量%。
本发明组合物可以包括维生素。例如维生素A(视黄醇)、维生素B2、维生素B3(烟酰胺)、维生素B6、维生素C、维生素E和生物素。也可以使用维生素衍生物。例如维生素C衍生物,包括抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸磷酸镁和抗坏血酸糖苷。维生素E衍生物,包括乙酸生育酚酯、棕榈酸生育酚酯和亚油酸生育酚酯。还可以使用DL-泛醇及其衍生物。对于本发明而言,不认为维生素是不饱和物质。在本发明组合物中使用维生素时,其总含量占组合物重量的0.001-10重量%,优选0.01-1重量%,最优选0.1-0.5重量%。
另一种有用的物质是酶,如氧化酶、蛋白酶、脂酶及其混合物。特别优选超氧化物歧化酶,其可得商品为美国Brooks公司生产的Biocell SOD。
本发明组合物可以包含亮肤化合物。例如胎盘提取物、乳酸、烟酰胺、熊果苷、曲酸、阿魏酸、间苯二酚及其衍生物(如4-取代间苯二酚)以及它们的混合物。亮肤化合物的含量占组合物重量的0.1-10重量%,优选0.5-2重量%。
本发明组合物可以包含促脱落剂,例如α-羟基羧酸和β-羟基羧酸。术语“酸”不仅仅指游离酸,还包括酸的盐和C1-C30烷基或芳基酯以及通过脱除酸中的水而形成环状或线性内酯结构方式得到的内酯。代表性的α-羟基羧酸为羟基乙酸、乳酸和苹果酸。水杨酸是典型的β-羟基羧酸。上述物质的含量占组合物重量的0.01-15重量%。
本发明组合物中任选地包含各种草药提取物。该提取物可以是溶于亲水性溶剂的水溶性提取物或溶于疏水性溶剂的水不溶性提取物。提取溶剂优选水和乙醇。
本发明组合物还可以包含硫辛酸、视黄氧三甲基硅烷(可购自Clariant公司,商标为Silcare 1M-75)、去氢表雄酮(DHEA)及其混合物等物质。在许多本发明组合物中,神经酰胺(包括神经酰胺1、神经酰胺3、神经酰胺3B和神经酰胺6)和假神经酰胺可用可不用。就本发明而言,不认为本段所述物质是不饱和物。这些物质的含量为组合物重量的0.000001-10重量%,优选0.0001-1重量%。
本发明组合物中还可以包含着色剂、遮光剂和研磨剂。其中的每一种物质的含量可占组合物重量的0.05-5重量%,优选0.1-3重量%。
本发明组合物还可以任选引入到不溶性基底(如经处理的擦巾,treated wipe)中以便施用于皮肤。
术语“包含”的含义不局限于其后面列举的所有因素,而且包括了具有主要或次要功能作用的非指明因素。换句话说,所列举的步骤、成分或选项并非穷举。术语“包括”或“具有”的含义与前面“包含”的定义相同。
包括专利、专利申请和出版物在内的所有参考文献在本说明书中整体引入作为参考。
下面的实施例更具体地描述本发明的实施方式。除了特别说明,实施例及后附的权利要求中所述的所有的份数、百分比和比例均按重量计。
实施例1
表I概述了一个典型的本发明个人护理组合物,其形式为化妆水。
表I
组分 | 重量% |
A相 | |
水 | 余量 |
EDTA二钠 | 0.05 |
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 | 0.15 |
硅酸铝镁 | 0.60 |
三乙醇胺 | 1.20 |
羟乙基脲 | 1.00 |
B相 | |
黄原胶 | 0.20 |
Natrosol250HHR(乙基纤维素) | 0.50 |
丁二醇 | 3.00 |
甘油 | 2.00 |
C相 | |
硬脂酰乳酸钠 | 0.10 |
单硬脂酸甘油酯 | 1.50 |
十八烷醇 | 1.50 |
棕榈酸异硬脂醇酯 | 3.00 |
硅氧烷液 | 1.00 |
胆固醇 | 0.25 |
脱水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯 | 1.00 |
丁基化羟基酚 | 0.05 |
维生素E醋酸酯 | 0.01 |
PEG-100硬脂酸酯 | 2.00 |
硬脂酸 | 3.00 |
对羟基苯甲酸丙酯 | 0.10 |
Parsol MCX | 2.00 |
辛/癸酸甘油三酯 | 0.50 |
羟基辛酸 | 0.01 |
C12-15烷基辛酸酯 | 3.00 |
D相 | |
维生素A棕榈酸酯 | 0.10 |
红没药醇 | 0.01 |
维生素A醋酸酯 | 0.01 |
香料 | 0.03 |
视黄醇50C | 0.02 |
共轭亚油酸 | 0.50 |
实施例2
表II表示一种根据本发明制备的油包水型局部用液体化妆用粉底。
表II
组分 | 重量% |
A相 | |
环甲硅油 | 9.25 |
油酸油酯 | 2.00 |
聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇 | 20.00 |
B相 | |
滑石 | 3.38 |
颜料(氧化铁) | 10.51 |
Spheron L-1500(硅石) | 0.50 |
C相 | |
合成蜡durachem 0602 | 0.10 |
山萮酸花生酯 | 0.30 |
D相 | |
环甲硅油 | 1.00 |
三羟基硬脂酸甘油酯 | 0.30 |
E相 | |
聚乙二醇单十二醚-7 | 0.50 |
对羟基苯甲酸丙酯 | 0.25 |
F相 | |
香料 | 0.05 |
G相 | |
水 | 余量 |
羟甲基脲 | 3.00 |
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 | 0.12 |
丙二醇 | 8.00 |
烟酰胺 | 4.00 |
甘油 | 3.00 |
氯化钠 | 2.00 |
脱氢乙酸钠 | 0.30 |
实施例3
表III表示一种加入了本发明的取代脲的含不饱和物(亚麻子油)的护肤霜。
表III
组分 | 重量% |
甘油 | 6.93 |
烟酰胺 | 5.00 |
羟乙基脲 | 5.00 |
Permethyl 101A1 | 3.00 |
Sepigel 3052 | 2.50 |
Q2-14033 | 2.00 |
亚麻子油 | 1.33 |
Arlatone 21214 | 1.00 |
鲸蜡醇CO-1695 | 0.72 |
SEFA cottonate5 | 0.67 |
醋酸生育酚酯 | 0.50 |
泛醇 | 0.50 |
十八烷醇 | 0.48 |
二氧化钛 | 0.40 |
EDTA二钠 | 0.10 |
Glydant plus6 | 0.10 |
PEG-100硬脂酸酯 | 0.10 |
硬脂酸 | 0.10 |
纯化水 | 余量 |
1、异十六烷(Presperse Inc.,South Plainfield,NJ)
2、聚丙烯酰胺(和)C13-14异链烷烃(和)聚乙二醇单十二醚-7(SeppicCorporation,Fairfield,NJ)
3.聚二甲基硅氧烷(和)聚二甲基硅氧烷醇(道康宁公司,Midland,MI)
4、脱水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯和可可酸蔗糖酯(ICI Americas Inc.,Wilmington,DE)
5、脂肪酸蔗糖酯
6、DMDM乙内酰胺(和)氨基甲酸碘丙炔丁酯(Lonza Inc.,Fairlawn,NJ)
实施例4
表IV所示配方表示了另一种根据本发明加入取代脲的含不饱和物(葵花子油)的化妆品组合物。
表IV
组分 | 重量% |
聚硅氧烷-11 | 22 |
环甲硅油 | 54 |
凡士林 | 11 |
羟乙基脲(50%水成液) | 7 |
聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇 | 0.5 |
葵花子油 | 0.5 |
实施例5
表V表示了一种含本发明所述取代脲和不饱和物(琉璃苣籽油)的相对无水的组合物。
表V
组分 | 重量% |
环甲硅油 | 80.65 |
聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 9.60 |
角鲨烷 | 6.00 |
异硬脂酸 | 1.90 |
琉璃苣籽油 | 0.90 |
羟乙基脲(50%水成液) | 0.50 |
棕榈酸视黄酯 | 0.25 |
神经酰胺6 | 0.10 |
生育酚 | 0.10 |
实施例6
一种气雾剂型泡沫清洁剂,该清洁剂含由适合本发明的取代脲保护的不饱和物(葵花子油和聚甘油-4-油酸酯),其组成如表VI所示。
表VI
组分 | 重量% |
葵花子油 | 20.00 |
马来酸化的豆油 | 5.00 |
有机硅聚氨酯 | 1.00 |
聚甘油-4-油酸酯 | 1.00 |
C14-16烯烃磺酸钠 | 15.00 |
月桂基醚硫酸钠(25%活性) | 15.00 |
椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱 | 15.00 |
DC1784(50%硅油乳液) | 5.00 |
聚季铵-11(Polyquaternium-11) | 1.00 |
羟乙基脲(50%水成液) | 1.00 |
水 | 余量 |
实施例7
根据本发明所述的一次性单次用湿纸巾护理产品。该湿纸巾是由70%聚酯和30%人造纤维制成的无纺产品,重1.8克,尺寸为15厘米×20厘米。在该湿纸巾上浸满了表VII所示的含不饱和物(萜类香料)的组合物,该组合物使用取代脲防止变色。
表VII
组分 | 重量% |
羟乙基脲(50%水成液) | 7.50 |
甘油 | 2.00 |
己二醇 | 2.00 |
两性辛基二乙酸二钠 | 1.00 |
葡糖酸内酯 | 0.90 |
硅油微乳液 | 0.85 |
金缕梅 | 0.50 |
PEG-40氢化蓖麻油 | 0.50 |
香料(萜类混合物) | 0.20 |
维生素E醋酸酯 | 0.001 |
水 | 余量 |
实施例8
对一种典型的取代脲进行颜色稳定性评价试验。按照表VIII所示的配方制备一系列含相对大量共轭亚油酸(成色物质)的护肤霜。
表VIII
组分 | 样品(重量%) | ||||
A | B | C | D | E | |
甘油 | 20.00 | 10.00 | 15.00 | 10.00 | 10.00 |
羟乙基脲(50%水成液) | -- | 10.00 | -- | 5.00 | -- |
硅氧烷/粘土 | 5.50 | 5.50 | 5.50 | 5.50 | 5.50 |
共轭亚油酸 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 |
胆固醇 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 |
亚油酸 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 |
硬脂酸 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
Dermoblock OS | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 |
环戊硅氧烷 | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 |
硅氧烷弹性体(DC9045) | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 | 13.00 |
聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 1.00 |
羟基乙酸(70%活性) | 5.70 | 5.70 | 5.70 | 5.70 | 5.70 |
氢氧化铵 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 |
二氧化钛 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 |
营养成分 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 | 1.60 |
香料 | 0.35 | 0.35 | 0.35 | 0.35 | 0.35 |
氯化钠 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 |
EDTA二钠 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 | 0.20 |
对羟基苯甲酸丙酯 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 |
水 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 |
所有样品均在自然室内条件下保存在烧杯中。室温下,样品暴露在自然光和荧光的混合光下。保存两个月后记录护肤霜的变色情况或其发色体的生成情况。使用用于稳定性试验的标准颜色表来评价生色量。分为1-20个等级。在颜色等级表中,1表示白色;颜色连续加深至非常浅黄色(本色至浅米黄色,等级为2-5);浅黄色(浅米黄色至米黄色,等级为6-10);黄色(等级为11-15)以及亮黄色(等级为16-20)。保存2个月后的颜色分级结果如下表所示。
表IX
组分 | 样品(重量%) | ||||
A | B | C | D | E | |
颜色等级表得分 | 16 | 8 | 16 | 9 | 15 |
整体视觉效果 | 亮黄色 | 米黄色 | 亮黄色 | 米黄色 | 黄色 |
根据表IX所示的结果,样品B和D看上去受光照损害最小。它们与样品A、C和E的配方区别在于使用羟乙基脲。显然,羟乙基脲具有稳定颜色的功能。
Claims (12)
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中取代脲是羟乙基脲。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的组合物,其中不饱和物是选自葵花子油、红花油、亚麻子油、琉璃苣油、琉璃苣籽油、芫荽子油、含共轭亚油酸残基的甘油三酯及其混合物的甘油酯。
4.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中不饱和物的含量为0.0001-20重量%。
5.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中取代脲的含量为0.01-20重量%。
6.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中取代脲相对于不饱和物的重量比为10,000∶1-1∶100。
7.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中不饱和物具有至少两个烯烃双键。
8.根据权利要求7所述的组合物,其中所述至少两个烯烃双键中有一对是共轭关系。
9.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中不饱和物是共轭亚油酸。
10.根据上述任一权利要求所述的组合物,其中不饱和物的碘值为20-300。
11.取代脲在减轻个人护理组合物变色中的用途,其中所述取代脲具有通式(I)结构
其中R1、R2和R3选自氢、C1-C6烷基、(R5)nOH及其混合物;R5为亚甲基、亚乙基、亚丙基或其组合,n为1-6;R4为(R5)nOH;以及
所述个人护理组合物包含一种具有至少一个烯烃双键,容易降解成有色物质的不饱和有机物,该不饱和物选自C10-C50萜类化合物和C12-C48不饱和脂肪族化合物,所述C12-C48化合物选自脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪酸甘油酯、脂肪酸盐、脂肪酸酯和它们的混合物。
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US54597204P | 2004-02-19 | 2004-02-19 | |
US60/545,972 | 2004-02-19 |
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US (1) | US20050186231A1 (zh) |
EP (1) | EP1715838B1 (zh) |
JP (1) | JP4536735B2 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN100528125C (zh) |
AT (1) | ATE366565T1 (zh) |
AU (1) | AU2004316069B2 (zh) |
BR (1) | BRPI0418070B1 (zh) |
DE (1) | DE602004007553T2 (zh) |
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Cited By (2)
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CN107126378A (zh) * | 2016-02-29 | 2017-09-05 | 科思创聚合物(中国)有限公司 | 表面活性剂组合物及由其制成的清洁剂 |
CN110099722A (zh) * | 2016-12-22 | 2019-08-06 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | 化妆品组合物的臭味减少 |
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JP4869577B2 (ja) * | 2004-09-30 | 2012-02-08 | アクゾノーベル株式会社 | 毛髪化粧料 |
US8173144B2 (en) * | 2004-11-04 | 2012-05-08 | L'oreal | Administration of urea compounds for combating signs of cutaneous aging |
FR2877567B1 (fr) * | 2004-11-09 | 2007-03-02 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique contenant un compose d'uree |
FR2878438B1 (fr) * | 2004-11-26 | 2009-07-03 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant un agent tenseur et une hydroxyalkyl uree |
DE102005054974A1 (de) * | 2005-11-16 | 2007-05-24 | Henkel Kgaa | Volumengebendes Haarbehandlungsmittel |
US7172754B1 (en) * | 2005-12-23 | 2007-02-06 | Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic emulsions with sunscreens and conjugated linoleic acid |
US7175835B1 (en) * | 2005-12-23 | 2007-02-13 | Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic emulsions with inorganic sunscreens stabilized with conjugated linoleic acid |
US7175836B1 (en) * | 2005-12-23 | 2007-02-13 | Conopco, Inc. | Oil continuous phase cosmetic emulsions with conjugated linoleic acid |
DE102006034533A1 (de) * | 2006-07-24 | 2008-01-31 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Restrukturierung von Haaren mit besonderen Harnstoffderivaten |
US20080299054A1 (en) * | 2007-05-30 | 2008-12-04 | Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever | Personal care compositions with enhanced fragrance delivery |
DE102011002893A1 (de) * | 2011-01-20 | 2012-07-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Kosmetische und dermatologische Zusammensetzungen gegen trockene Haut |
CN106470660B (zh) * | 2014-06-30 | 2020-03-31 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | 含氮硼烷稳定化的皮肤护理组合物 |
MX2019007246A (es) | 2016-12-22 | 2019-08-16 | Unilever Nv | Estabilizacion de composiciones cosmeticas que comprenden aceites de pescado y acidos grasos hidroxilados y/o sus derivados. |
KR102274838B1 (ko) * | 2019-11-25 | 2021-07-08 | 주식회사 대정스페셜티 | 비타민 f 함유 천연오일을 활용한 peg 및 인공방부제 프리 보습크림 |
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FR2711060B1 (fr) * | 1993-10-13 | 1995-11-17 | Oreal | Procédé pour modifier la pousse des poils et/ou des cheveux et compositions utilisables à cet effet. |
FR2750334B1 (fr) * | 1996-07-01 | 1998-09-04 | Oreal | Utilisation de derives amino-alcools a fonction uree dans et pour la preparation de compositions cosmetiques ou dermatologiques |
US5965518A (en) * | 1998-02-23 | 1999-10-12 | Nakatsu; Tetsuo | Fragrance compositions having antimicrobial activity |
GB9828379D0 (en) * | 1998-12-22 | 1999-02-17 | Unilever Plc | Skin care composition |
US6296861B1 (en) * | 1999-05-03 | 2001-10-02 | Nicholas V. Perricone | Treatment of skin damage using conjugated linoleic acid and ascorbyl fatty acid esters |
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US20020100122A1 (en) * | 2000-11-08 | 2002-08-01 | Rodrigues Klein A. | Method for reducing wrinkles and improving feel in fabrics |
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US20050113268A1 (en) * | 2003-11-26 | 2005-05-26 | Landa Peter A. | Increased moisturization efficacy using hydroxyalkylurea |
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2004
- 2004-04-21 US US10/828,906 patent/US20050186231A1/en not_active Abandoned
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- 2004-12-03 CN CNB200480041789XA patent/CN100528125C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107126378A (zh) * | 2016-02-29 | 2017-09-05 | 科思创聚合物(中国)有限公司 | 表面活性剂组合物及由其制成的清洁剂 |
CN107126378B (zh) * | 2016-02-29 | 2022-05-24 | 科思创德国股份有限公司 | 表面活性剂组合物及由其制成的清洁剂 |
CN110099722A (zh) * | 2016-12-22 | 2019-08-06 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | 化妆品组合物的臭味减少 |
CN110099722B (zh) * | 2016-12-22 | 2022-04-29 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | 化妆品组合物的臭味减少 |
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DE602004007553T2 (de) | 2007-11-29 |
BRPI0418070B1 (pt) | 2014-03-11 |
JP2007523104A (ja) | 2007-08-16 |
US20050186231A1 (en) | 2005-08-25 |
JP4536735B2 (ja) | 2010-09-01 |
BRPI0418070A (pt) | 2007-04-17 |
AU2004316069B2 (en) | 2007-10-11 |
ATE366565T1 (de) | 2007-08-15 |
ES2290776T3 (es) | 2008-02-16 |
WO2005079740A1 (en) | 2005-09-01 |
EP1715838B1 (en) | 2007-07-11 |
AU2004316069A1 (en) | 2005-09-01 |
DE602004007553D1 (de) | 2007-08-23 |
EP1715838A1 (en) | 2006-11-02 |
CN100528125C (zh) | 2009-08-19 |
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