CN1452924A - Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve - Google Patents
Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve Download PDFInfo
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- CN1452924A CN1452924A CN 02118209 CN02118209A CN1452924A CN 1452924 A CN1452924 A CN 1452924A CN 02118209 CN02118209 CN 02118209 CN 02118209 A CN02118209 A CN 02118209A CN 1452924 A CN1452924 A CN 1452924A
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Abstract
The sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve is based on the principle of combining one-piece sleeve with separating sleeve center line and front and back cut pieces. The sleeve Shan base form is first determined according to front and back sleeve cage and sleeve Shan; the drift angle between the sleeve Shan center line and the sleeve cage reference line is then determined according to the mediate sleeve and long sleeve, and sleeve Shan slant line, sleeve cage reference line, sleeve Shan center line and sleeve girth line are determined on clothing and sleeve cage. The sleeve Shan is shifted back and forth to make the stereo folded line become planar folded line, back planar folded line of the sleeve Shan and over three straight lines of sleeve cage are connected to the cuff. Without altering the back planar folded lines of sleeve Shan, the lower seams of back sleeve are increased.
Description
The present invention relates in the method for a kind of clothes Contiuum type raglan sleeve cutting, be meant the method for broken line section cutting behind the Contiuum type raglan sleeve especially.
The cutting of the clothes Contiuum type raglan sleeve in the prior art, normally rule of thumb directly determine sleeve back position of broken line and sleeve mountain line style (as Fig. 1), changed the back position of broken line of sleeve mountain fundamental mode, often can not make the coupling of sleeve and muffs reasonable, influence the effect of clothes, therefore invent the method for broken line section cutting behind a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve, become problem demanding prompt solution in the clothing industry.
The object of the present invention is to provide the method for broken line section cutting behind a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve, guarantee the perfection that rationally reaches the sleeve moulding of sleeve and garment piece muffs coupling.
The objective of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
The method of broken line section cutting behind a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve, the principle that must make up according to the one sleeve cut apart of sleeve center line and preceding back coat.At first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to half sleeve and long sleeves, determine the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, on clothing body muffs, determine sleeve mountain oblique line, sleeve datum line, sleeve center line, BICEP line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three above straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, do not change sleeve mountain back plane broken line, increase the method for cutting out of back curve line quantity.
Compare with the cutting of another garment sleeve in the prior art, the method of broken line section cutting behind a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve of the present invention, guarantee coincideing of sleeve mountain line style and muffs, and made the sleeve body more meet human body, changed original irrational method of cutting out.
Below by embodiment and conjunction with figs. to a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve of the present invention after the method for broken line section cutting be described further.
Fig. 2 is the requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, and the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
Fig. 3 is that sleeve center line and sleeve datum line produce the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle to planar fold.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram that Contiuum type raglan sleeve sleeve center line and sleeve datum line are determined.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in Contiuum type raglan sleeve sleeve mountain to planar fold.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of the front and back sleeve structure line of broken line section cutting behind the Contiuum type raglan sleeve.
At first see also Fig. 2 and be requirement according to garment piece muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, definite sleeve mountain line style schematic diagram, the mountain fundamental mode is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.The rational method that connects body formula cutting raglan sleeve, the principle that the one sleeve that must cut apart according to the sleeve center line and preceding back coat make up.After current back coat structure line is determined, according to the sleeve mountain height that the three-dimensional contouring that the front and back muffs is dark, front and back muffs camber line is long and sleeve is required is determined, the sleeve mountain line style of the one sleeve that draws separately.QH, QI are front and back sleeves mountain oblique line, and QA is sleeve mountain height, and 1/2 sleeve scenery with hills and waters horizontal line and the front and back mountain oblique line intersection point of tucking inside the sleeve is P, P ', with the intersection point of front and back cap arc line be W, W '.If the angle of foresleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve center line is α, the angle of back sleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve center line is β, because the difference of sleeve length, sleeve must possess different drift angles forward, the arm shape that just can meet the people, if the drift angle is θ, QD is a raglan sleeve sleeve datum line, the above cotta θ of elbow line is 0 degree, sleeve length to the long sleeves θ of wrist be the 6-7 degree, sleeve length is the 2-5 degree in wrist to the half sleeve θ between the elbow joint, and promptly the angle of foresleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve datum line is α-θ, and the angle of back sleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve datum line is β+θ.
Seeing also Fig. 3 again is that sleeve center line and sleeve datum line produce the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain of drift angle to planar fold.For making the three-dimensional broken line NM energy in foresleeve mountain relative with the sleeve outline line identical, moving forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes before and after the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, amount of movement is ⊙, constitutes new front and back broken line N ' M ', the F ' E ' mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve, and the A point moves to A ' point.
Fig. 4 is the schematic diagram that Contiuum type raglan sleeve sleeve center line and sleeve datum line are determined.The position of sleeve mountain oblique line before and after at first on the garment piece of front and back, determining: put the public part of outside translation 1.5-2 for sleeve mountain top point Q, on preceding muffs line at the front and back point of shoulder
Preceding AH/2The place is the W point, the inside WP of level is of a size of the P point, W ' some distance and the W point to BL BUST LINE is equal to the distance of BL BUST LINE on the back sleeve line, and W ' outside W ' P ' is of a size of P ' point, and connecting QP, QP ' is sleeve mountain, front and back oblique line, then according to front and back angle α, the β of sleeve center line with sleeve mountain oblique line, front and back angle α-θ, the β+θ of raglan sleeve sleeve datum line and sleeve mountain oblique line, the sleeve center line QA that draws, sleeve datum line QD, according to the sleeve high size QA in mountain, BICEP line AI, AH draw again.
Fig. 5 is the schematic diagram of the three-dimensional broken line in Contiuum type raglan sleeve sleeve mountain to planar fold.In order to make foresleeve mountain three-dimensional folding NM energy relative with the sleeve outline line identical, moving forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes before and after the three-dimensional broken line in sleeve mountain, amount of movement is ⊙, constitute new front and back broken line N ' M ', F ' E ', the mountain planar fold is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve, with N ' M ' is preceding broken line, and A ' is the corresponding points of H, and A ' N ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' H; With F ' E ' is the back broken line, and A ' is the corresponding points of I.
Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of the front and back sleeve structure line of broken line section cutting behind the Contiuum type raglan sleeve.N ' some parallel lines N ' S that makes the QD of sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, datum line for the sleeve outline line, N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, SB=cuff/2-0.3+ ⊙, the B point is sleeve midline position, BB '=AA ', A ' B ' stitches the position down for lining sleeve sleeve, with N ' S is broken line, and a ' is the corresponding points of A ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' .A '; B ' is the corresponding points of B '.Outwards increase by 0.7～1.0 centimeter of fat gesture at the D of BICEP place point, fairing connects each point and promptly constitutes the front sleeve piece outline line.
Get front sleeve piece B, B ' corresponding points on the sleeve sheet cuff line of back, the B point is of a size of apart from the sleeve datum line, and A ' B ' is seam position under the sleeve sleeve of lining.Get BU=cuff-(cuff/2-0.3+ ⊙) on the cuff line, get the T point at the elbow line, elbow is enclosed be slightly less than BICEP, it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.Get C, D two millet cake on A ' B ', A ' C=2～2.5 centimeter, the D point is a broken line with F ' E ' near elbow line place, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ', c, is broken line with E ' T, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.C ' C " 0.7 (eating gesture), d ' d "-0.7 (eating gesture) is back sleeve province's amount of seam down, and economizing point is ⊙+1～1.5 centimeter apart from the distance of broken line.Outwards increase fat gesture 0.7-1.0 centimetre at the D of BICEP place point, fairing connects each point and promptly constitutes back sleeve sheet outline line.
Claims (5)
1, the method for broken line section cutting behind a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve, the principle that must make up according to the one sleeve cut apart of sleeve center line and preceding back coat.At first determine sleeve mountain fundamental mode according to front and back muffs and sleeve mountain moulding, again according to half sleeve and long sleeves, determine the drift angle of sleeve center line and sleeve datum line, on clothing body muffs, determine sleeve mountain oblique line, sleeve datum line, sleeve center line, BICEP line, three-dimensional sleeve mountain broken line is to planar fold before and after moving, sleeve mountain back plane broken line and three above straight lines of sleeve body are connected to cuff, do not change sleeve mountain back plane broken line, increase the method for cutting out of back curve line quantity.
2, according to the method for broken line section cutting behind claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve.After current back coat structure line is determined, according to the sleeve mountain height that the three-dimensional contouring that the front and back muffs is dark, front and back muffs camber line is long and sleeve is required is determined, the sleeve mountain line style of the one sleeve that draws separately.QH, QI are front and back sleeves mountain oblique line, and QA is sleeve mountain height, and 1/2 sleeve scenery with hills and waters horizontal line and the front and back mountain oblique line intersection point of tucking inside the sleeve is P, P ', with the intersection point of front and back cap arc line be W, W '.If the angle of foresleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve center line is α, the angle of back sleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve center line is β, because the difference of sleeve length, sleeve must possess different drift angles forward, the arm shape that just can meet the people, if the drift angle is θ, QD is a raglan sleeve sleeve datum line, the above cotta θ of elbow line is 0 degree, sleeve length to the long sleeves θ of wrist be the 6-7 degree, sleeve length is the 2-5 degree in wrist to the half sleeve θ between the elbow joint, and promptly the angle of foresleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve datum line is α-θ, and the angle of back sleeve mountain oblique line and sleeve datum line is β+θ.
3, according to the method for broken line section cutting behind claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve.For making the three-dimensional broken line NM in foresleeve mountain can be relative with the sleeve outline line identical, solid broken line front and back, sleeve mountain are moved forward synchronously less than in 2.5 centimeters scopes, amount of movement is ⊙, constitutes new front and back broken line N ' M ', the F ' E ' mountain planar fold that is referred to as to tuck inside the sleeve.
4, according to the method for broken line section cutting behind claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve.The position of sleeve mountain oblique line is on the garment piece of front and back: putting outside translation 1.5-2 at the front and back point of shoulder is the mountain top point Q that tucks inside the sleeve for public part, on preceding muffs line
Preceding AH/2The place is the W point, the inside WP of level is of a size of the P point, W ' some distance and the W point to BL BUST LINE is equal to the distance of BL BUST LINE on the back sleeve line, and W ' outside W ' P ' is of a size of P ' point, and connecting QP, QP ' is sleeve mountain, front and back oblique line, then according to front and back angle α, the β of sleeve center line with sleeve mountain oblique line, front and back angle α-θ, the β+θ of raglan sleeve sleeve datum line and sleeve mountain oblique line, the sleeve center line QA that draws, sleeve datum line QD, according to the sleeve high size QA in mountain, BICEP line AI, AH draw again.
5, according to the method for broken line section cutting behind claims 1 described a kind of apparel construction Contiuum type raglan sleeve.N ' some parallel lines N ' S that makes the QD of sleeve datum line through planar fold cap arc line place, foresleeve mountain, datum line for the sleeve outline line, N ' S is preceding sleeve planar fold, SB=cuff/2-0.3+ ⊙, the B point is sleeve midline position, BB '=AA ', A ' B ' stitches the position down for lining sleeve sleeve, with N ' S is broken line, and a ' is the corresponding points of A ', and N ' a ' camber line is the corresponding camber line of N ' A '; B ' is the corresponding points of B '.Outwards increase by 0.7～1.0 centimeter of fat gesture at the D of BICEP place point, fairing connects each point and promptly constitutes the front sleeve piece outline line.
Get front sleeve piece B, B ' corresponding points on the sleeve sheet cuff line of back, the B point is of a size of apart from the sleeve datum line, and A ' B ' is seam position under the sleeve sleeve of lining.Get BU=cuff-(cuff/2-0.3+ ⊙) on the cuff line, get the T point at the elbow line, elbow is enclosed be slightly less than BICEP, it is back sleeve planar fold that straight line connects E ' T, TU.Get C, D two millet cake on A ' B ', A ' C=2～2.5 centimeter, the D point is a broken line with F ' E ' near elbow line place, a ", c ' is the corresponding points of A ', c, is broken line with E ' T, c ", d ' is the corresponding points of C, D; With TU is broken line, and d ", b " is the corresponding points of D, B '.C ' C " 0.7 (eating gesture), d ' d "-0.7 (eating gesture) is back sleeve province's amount of seam down, and economizing point is ⊙+1～1.5 centimeter apart from the distance of broken line.Outwards increase fat gesture 0.7-1.0 centimetre at the D of BICEP place point, fairing connects each point and promptly constitutes back sleeve sheet outline line.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02118209 CN1452924A (en) | 2002-04-25 | 2002-04-25 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 02118209 CN1452924A (en) | 2002-04-25 | 2002-04-25 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
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| CN1452924A true CN1452924A (en) | 2003-11-05 |
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| CN 02118209 Pending CN1452924A (en) | 2002-04-25 | 2002-04-25 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
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Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102132966A (en) * | 2011-03-21 | 2011-07-27 | 东华大学 | Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
| CN108523286A (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2018-09-14 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | A kind of control of coat-sleeve angle, accurate sleeve-matching method |
| CN108564581A (en) * | 2018-04-23 | 2018-09-21 | 中原工学院 | A kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection |
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
| CN111096510A (en) * | 2019-11-08 | 2020-05-05 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Plate-making sleeve matching method for non-biased raglan sleeve clothes |
| CN112075701A (en) * | 2019-06-12 | 2020-12-15 | 四川大学 | Drawing method for compatibility of raglan armhole and sleeve top arc |
| CN112914182A (en) * | 2021-03-08 | 2021-06-08 | 周斌 | Method for manufacturing shoulder sleeve-falling clothes |
| CN113749339A (en) * | 2021-08-23 | 2021-12-07 | 周斌 | Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes |
-
2002
- 2002-04-25 CN CN 02118209 patent/CN1452924A/en active Pending
Cited By (14)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102132966A (en) * | 2011-03-21 | 2011-07-27 | 东华大学 | Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction |
| CN102132966B (en) * | 2011-03-21 | 2013-01-16 | 东华大学 | Method for making fit chamfering one-piece sleeve with dynamic and static balance effect prediction |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
| CN102488343B (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2014-07-02 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
| CN110215002A (en) * | 2018-03-01 | 2019-09-10 | 青岛亿艺通服饰有限公司 | A kind of men's clothing prototype matches the method for platemaking of sleeve according to muffs |
| CN108523286A (en) * | 2018-04-19 | 2018-09-14 | 浙江海明实业有限公司 | A kind of control of coat-sleeve angle, accurate sleeve-matching method |
| CN108564581A (en) * | 2018-04-23 | 2018-09-21 | 中原工学院 | A kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection |
| CN108564581B (en) * | 2018-04-23 | 2021-05-04 | 中原工学院 | Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve |
| CN112075701A (en) * | 2019-06-12 | 2020-12-15 | 四川大学 | Drawing method for compatibility of raglan armhole and sleeve top arc |
| CN111096510A (en) * | 2019-11-08 | 2020-05-05 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Plate-making sleeve matching method for non-biased raglan sleeve clothes |
| CN111096510B (en) * | 2019-11-08 | 2023-09-01 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Non-biased raglan sleeve clothing platemaking and sleeve matching method |
| CN112914182A (en) * | 2021-03-08 | 2021-06-08 | 周斌 | Method for manufacturing shoulder sleeve-falling clothes |
| CN112914182B (en) * | 2021-03-08 | 2023-04-07 | 周斌 | Method for manufacturing shoulder sleeve-falling clothes |
| CN113749339A (en) * | 2021-08-23 | 2021-12-07 | 周斌 | Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes |
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