CN108564581A - A kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection - Google Patents
A kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection Download PDFInfo
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- CN108564581A CN108564581A CN201810366205.XA CN201810366205A CN108564581A CN 108564581 A CN108564581 A CN 108564581A CN 201810366205 A CN201810366205 A CN 201810366205A CN 108564581 A CN108564581 A CN 108564581A
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 238000012417 linear regression Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000007717 exclusion Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 241000208340 Araliaceae Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000005035 Panax pseudoginseng ssp. pseudoginseng Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000003140 Panax quinquefolius Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009795 derivation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000008434 ginseng Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000011031 large-scale manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012029 structural testing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001364 upper extremity Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000012795 verification Methods 0.000 description 1
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- G—PHYSICS
- G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
- G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
- G06T7/00—Image analysis
- G06T7/0002—Inspection of images, e.g. flaw detection
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- G—PHYSICS
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- G06F—ELECTRIC DIGITAL DATA PROCESSING
- G06F17/00—Digital computing or data processing equipment or methods, specially adapted for specific functions
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Abstract
The present invention relates to technical field of costume design, disclose a kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection, including：Following steps：S1, multiple sleeve pieces and corresponding armhole are drawn out according to different drafting methods；S2, the sleeve piece being closed；S3, the basic principle positioned according to dress sleeve, the sleeve piece of closure are fixed on corresponding armhole drawing；S4, minimum spacing a, minimum spacing b, minimum spacing c measure the deep amount of the placing H of sleeve, measure the across back amount of placing W, measure the chest breadth amount of the placing B and sleeve width amount of placing S；S5, using linear regression analysis, obtain the correlation for influencing two panels sleeve structure design；S6, abac is drawn；The data value measured in S7, judgement S4 is not in the confidence level section of abac, it then will appear sleeve defect, this split sleeve structure chart method of inspection makes the standard for examining split sleeve architecture quality, can be in the generation of drawing stage control and exclusion finished product sleeve portion defect.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to technical field of costume design, more particularly to a kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection.
Background technology
Shoulder sleeve structure is one of the main structure position in entire jacket structure, because it has modeling requirement and involves
To the human upper limb and arm for having dynamic requirements.In previous paper pattern design, many design parameters come from practical experience,
Lack theoretical research and mathematical derivation.The design plate-making personnel of home clothing industry, have also made more research work in succession, but
The still not no standard of systematization.
During Clothing Structure Design, the more complex stage is that the structure between establishing the component that be combined with each other is coincide, these
Structure member should meet the composite requests such as be combined with each other, position, examining.And common drawing examines work that can not ensure into
The final product quality of quality or a certain structure position.Particularly typical and complicated is " armhole-sleeve " structure position among these：It is recessed
Into armhole curve, be subordinated to they anter sleeve, rear piece sleeve and protrusion cap arc line.In general, armhole and cap arc line
Drawing carries out respectively, and quality inspection could only carry out in the sample clothing stage.
The design of sleeve be should according to the shape of human body armpit and its motion state of arm Aided design.Tuck inside the sleeve
The design of body is armhole to be based on.There are many research of forefathers but are all the analysis in drawing stage and the spy of more preferable drafting method
It begs for, does not make split sleeve that can control the quality of finished product in the drawing stage there are one stringent standard.Thus, it is necessary to propose
One matched analysis about split sleeve structural parameters, that is, each structure position should match between each other there are one good
Than relationship to make the armhole of split sleeve meet the composite requests such as be combined with each other, position, examine with sleeve.The present invention is using figure point
Analysis method formulates the structural testing standard of split sleeve.
It formulates in pattern analysis plant process, it is first determined quality inspection is carried out in the drawing stage to two-piece type dress sleeve
Primary condition：Selection split sleeve form the most typical-man's western-style clothes sleeve.The structural portion for selecting some important in this system
Position, analyzes the basic law that is mutually related between them, these pairs of structural parameters are：Sleeve width and the wide difference of armhole, sleeve
The deep difference with sleeve height in gallery.We first to largely adhere to separately various years male western-style clothes drawing (with No.1 type 176/96) this
A little structure positions are measured, and have obtained the performance graph of their historical variations, as shown in Figure 1, in theory in sleeve width
With the wide difference of armhole, there is apparent associations between armhole depth and sleeve height difference structural parameters.
Domestic and international split sleeve structure drawing method is always various, respectively there is a feature, but to sum up, these are typical
Split sleeve cartography is essentially divided into the drawing of fundamental mode method and rule of three drawing.The characteristics of rule of three is to be both needed to measure bust, sleeve length
Size, and according to bust size come calculate the detail size of sleeve deep, sleeve width, cuff etc. but as value mode be to compare
It is unilateral, influence of the bust size to structure size of tucking inside the sleeve is only taken into account, is likely to result in the goodness of fit on armhole and mountain of tucking inside the sleeve so not
It reaches.Chinese style rule of three is exactly and the Anglicism man west in this way, the controlling position of Italianism Structure Method is also bust and sleeve length
Take in the structure design of split sleeve, sleeve mountain position design extremely emphasize with the matching of garment piece armhole structure, embodied a concentrated reflection of English
The rigorous feature of formula Italianism Clothing Structure Design ratio, but they are relied on to the determination comparison of sleeve height, sleeve width size
Influence and the deep cooperation with sleeve width of sleeve of bust should also be considered in the size of armhole.
Drawing the stage, if coordinate between some structure positions it is bad if will appear such-and-such sleeve defect.Such as：
Retrodeviate the lateral pleat on sleeve bend line top precisely due to sleeve width it is too small and caused by sleeve height is excessively high；Retrodeviate sleeve bend line top
Oblique pleat be due to sleeve width is excessive and caused by sleeve height is too low.This is all since the proportioning of sleeve height and sleeve width is unbalance or sleeve is grand
The proportioning of width and sleeve width is unbalance.In addition, sleeve height deficiency also can the caused vertical folding figure on sleeve mountain；Sleeve mountain is excessively high and can draw
Rise sleeve mountain on tuck, and these be all because sleeve mountain with tuck inside the sleeve it is grand match deeply it is unbalance caused by.
So in order to avoid defect of tucking inside the sleeve caused by the appearance of drawing stage is unbalance due to sleeve structure parameters adjusting, must want
It is proposed a kind of method of inspection of split sleeve drawing.
Invention content
The present invention provides a kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection, can solve the above problem in the prior art.
The present invention provides a kind of split sleeve structure chart methods of inspection, include the following steps：
S1, the clothes based on same model make multiple sleeve pieces and corresponding armhole according to different drafting methods；
The structural drawings of big sleeve piece and small sleeve piece are closed, are closed by S2, the sleeve piece drawn to same drafting method
Sleeve piece；
S3, the basic principle positioned according to dress sleeve, the sleeve piece of closure are fixed on corresponding armhole drawing；
S4, according to dress tuck inside the sleeve after structure chart, measure it is all before partially sleeve bend line peaks and preceding armhole dress sleeve point between
Minimum spacing a, the minimum spacing b for measuring all sleeve mountain peaks and being closed between armhole peak measure all sleeves that retrodeviate and turn
Minimum spacing c between broken line peak and back armhole dress sleeve point, measures the deep amount of the placing H of all sleeves, measures all across backs and place
W is measured, all chest breadth amount of placing B and all sleeve width amount of placing S are measured；
S5, using linear regression analysis, the data obtained in S4 are analyzed, obtain influence two panels sleeve structure design
Correlation it is as follows：
с=1.3+0.9B (1)
B=2.5-0.95c (2)
A=1.9+0.2b (3)
S6, the formula (1) according in S5, formula (2) and formula (3) draw abac；
S7, according to the abac in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is located in the confidence level section of abac, tuck inside the sleeve
The final product quality of son is qualified；If the data value measured in S4 is not in the confidence level section of abac, can go out
It now tucks inside the sleeve defect.
Sleeve defect in the step S7 includes：It is retrodeviated caused by sleeve height is excessively high on sleeve bend line since sleeve width is too small
The lateral pleat in portion, due to sleeve width it is excessive and retrodeviate caused by sleeve height is too low the oblique pleat on sleeve bend line top, due to sleeve height not
Typhloscle caused by foot on sleeve mountain and the tuck caused by sleeve mountain is excessively high on sleeve mountain.
Compared with prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are：
The present invention carries out comprehensive analysis by armhole, the sleeve structural drawings to closure, measures, uses to region of interest
The analysis method of linear regression handles acquired data, obtained it is interrelated between a series of structure positions,
To make the standard for examining split sleeve architecture quality.It can be in the hair of drawing stage control and exclusion finished product sleeve portion defect
It is raw.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the tendency chart of the historical variations of armhole and sleeve wild ginseng number in background of invention.
Fig. 2 is the instrumentation plan that the present invention is closed positioning and relevant parameter of the piece on armhole figure of tucking inside the sleeve.
Interrelated and their confidence interval schematic diagrames of the Fig. 3 between armhole of the present invention and sleeve structure parameter.
Fig. 4 is the adjustment schematic diagram carried out to the fundamental mode cartography eighties.
Fig. 5 is sample clothing three-view diagram.
Specific implementation mode
The specific embodiment of the present invention is described in detail in 2- Fig. 5 below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, it is to be understood that this
The protection domain of invention is not restricted by specific implementation.
As shown in Figures 2 and 3, a kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection provided in an embodiment of the present invention, including following step
Suddenly：
S1, the clothes based on same model make multiple sleeve pieces and corresponding armhole according to different drafting methods；
The structural drawings of big sleeve piece and small sleeve piece are closed, are closed by S2, the sleeve piece drawn to same drafting method
Sleeve piece；
S3, the basic principle positioned according to dress sleeve, the sleeve piece of closure are fixed on corresponding armhole drawing；
S4, according to dress tuck inside the sleeve after structure chart, measure it is all before partially sleeve bend line peaks and preceding armhole dress sleeve point between
Minimum spacing a, the minimum spacing b for measuring all sleeve mountain peaks and being closed between armhole peak measure all sleeves that retrodeviate and turn
Minimum spacing c between broken line peak and back armhole dress sleeve point, measures the deep amount of the placing H of all sleeves, measures all across backs and place
W is measured, all chest breadth amount of placing B and all sleeve width amount of placing S are measured；
S5, using linear regression analysis, the data obtained in S4 are analyzed, obtain influence two panels sleeve structure design
Correlation it is as follows：
с=1.3+0.9B (1)
B=2.5-0.95c (2)
A=1.9+0.2b (3)
S6, the formula (1) according in S5, formula (2) and formula (3) draw abac；
S7, according to the abac in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is located in the confidence level section of abac, tuck inside the sleeve
The final product quality of son is qualified；If the data value measured in S4 is not in the confidence level section of abac, can go out
It now tucks inside the sleeve defect.
Sleeve defect in the step S7 includes：It is retrodeviated caused by sleeve height is excessively high on sleeve bend line since sleeve width is too small
The lateral pleat in portion, due to sleeve width it is excessive and retrodeviate caused by sleeve height is too low the oblique pleat on sleeve bend line top, due to sleeve height not
Typhloscle caused by foot on sleeve mountain and the tuck caused by sleeve mountain is excessively high on sleeve mountain.
(1) analytical procedure
1. having made a system based on No.1 type (170/84A) by largely collecting the sleeve of the male western-style clothes under different cartographies
The male western-style clothes sleeve of row 14 and corresponding armhole.Select with No.1 type rendering architecture figure purpose be placed in same configuration so as to
It is compared.
2. size sleeve chip architecture drawing is closed by particular step.
3. the sleeve piece of closure is fixed on armhole drawing on the basis of meeting the basic principle for filling sleeve positioning.
4. the minimum spacing of measurement selected structure position on sleeve mountain and armhole drawing：The preceding inclined sleeve bend line peaks of a-and
The spacing of preceding armhole dress sleeve point, b-sleeve mountain peak and the spacing for being closed armhole peak, c-retrodeviate sleeve bend line peak and
The spacing and e, f of back armhole dress sleeve point.As shown in Figure 2：
Quality inspection, which is carried out, in the sleeve drawing stage also needs to following initial data：
H-sleeve amount of placing deeply, the W-across back amount of placing, B-chest breadth amount of placing, the S-sleeve width amount of placing
The Structure Method of use has：Russia 1, Russia 2, Russia 3, Russia 4, rule of three 1980, two kind of rule of three
1994, rule of three 1997, rule of three 2000, rule of three 2002, fundamental mode method 1980, fundamental mode method 1998, Italy 1998, Britain
1988, France 1977, Japan 2000, Germany.The wherein value of a is 1~3.5, average value 1.98；The value of b -1~1,
Average value is -0.25；The value of c is 3.1 in 2~3.5 average values；The value of d is 0~4, average value 1.4；The value of e exists
3.3~4.6；Average value is 3.9；The value of f is 1.8~2.9, average value 2.5；The value of H is 3~5, average value 3.7；
The value of W is 1.2~2.5, average value 1.9；The value of B is 1~2.5, average value 1.6；The value of S is put down 4.5~9
Mean value is 6.5.(the unit Jun Wei ㎝ of above each parameter value)
(2) analysis result
In order to calculate relevance that may be present between analysis parameter, the application has used linear regression analysis.Processing institute
Obtained data, 3 groups of correlations being affected to two panels sleeve structure design in obtained relational expression are as follows：
The spacing of a-preceding inclined tuck inside the sleeve bend line peak and preceding armhole dress sleeve point, b-sleeve mountain peak and closure armhole peak
Spacing, c-retrodeviate sleeve bend line peak and back armhole dress sleeve point spacing and e, f.
с=1.3+0.9B (1)
B=2.5-0.95c (2)
A=1.9+0.2b (3)
Fig. 3 illustrates their abac.If these structured data values of drawing are located at the confidence level area that we obtain
Between in, then the final product quality of sleeve would be desirable；If be not in section, the possibility of sleeve defect is occurred.
The case where 4 Regional Representative marked in figure 3 with elliptical form are likely to occur defect：
1. the lateral pleat on sleeve bend line top is retrodeviated,
2. the oblique pleat on sleeve bend line top is retrodeviated,
3. the vertical folding caused by sleeve height is insufficient on sleeve mountain,
4. the tuck caused by sleeve mountain is excessively high on sleeve mountain.
Incidence relation shown in Fig. 3 can use in the following cases：
1. the basic boundary of sleeve piece is determined in the sleeve piece drawing stage,
2. when analyzing and examining drawing, permitted deviation between sleeve mountain and armhole is determined.
(1) verification step
1. structure chart of the selection one in the parameter in drawing stage except test stone is adjusted, make its structural parameters
Within test stone, the numerical value at each position of split sleeve is calculated with the parameter after adjustment, draws out the version of 1 ︰ 1
Type figure.
By analysis, the application selects the cartographic data of fundamental mode eighties to be adjusted, the inspection obtained because according to
Standard, the data in fundamental mode eighties deviate standard farther out.By the parameter of this Structure Method according to the test stone gone out in upper section
It is adjusted, it is as shown in table 1 below to adjust front and back value：
The adjustment that table 1 carries out fundamental mode cartography eighties parameter
Adjustment process is illustrated in fig. 4 shown below, and bold portion is the state before adjustment in figure, and dotted portion is the shape after adjustment
State.
2. making sleeve pattern according to the structure chart after adjustment, and cutting sewing is carried out, it is good to produce a technique
Sleeve is finally filled in clothing body by sleeve and its corresponding half of clothing body.
3. ready-made sample clothing is through on corresponding people's platform, whether intact its contour shape is observed, if there are defects.
(2) inspection result
Ready-made sample clothing is through on corresponding people's platform, its contour shape is observed, result is illustrated in fig. 5 shown below, and can be seen
Going out, the sleeve appearance that original split sleeve structure drawing makes is adjusted according to split sleeve mate of structural parameters standard, sleeve mountain is smoother,
Sleeve turns forward certain angle naturally, and sleeve elbow above and below position does not have defect presence.Sleeves are moulded good,
The set goal is reached.
Conclusion
1. by learning the general theory knowledge of split sleeve, learn that the structure design of split sleeve should meet formative nature
On the basis of consider sleeve functional.And structure drawing is very important the stage, if split sleeve can be carried out in this stage
The control of quality will be significantly.
2. being learnt after having analyzed split sleeve structure drawing, some proportionings are should comply between split sleeve structural parameters and are closed
System can just get hold of the quality of drawing.
3. with signature analysis obtained one be sleeved on split sleeve drawing the stage test stone it is as follows:
с=1.3+0.9B (1)
B=2.5-0.95c (2)
A=1.9+0.2b (3)
The spacing of wherein a-preceding inclined tuck inside the sleeve bend line peak and preceding armhole dress sleeve point, b-sleeve mountain peak and closure armhole are most
The spacing of high point, c-retrodeviate sleeve bend line peak, the B-chest breadth amount of placing.
It is effective to demonstrate this standard by material object manufacture.
It therefore deduces that, becoming the reason of the structure drawing stage excludes sleeve defect or determining finished product sleeve defect occurs can
Can, to ensure ready-made clothes quality.It can carry out producing preceding prediction in theory, and then control the quality of production, improve industry
The present situation of large-scale production.
Disclosed above is only several specific embodiments of the present invention, and still, the embodiment of the present invention is not limited to this, is appointed
What what those skilled in the art can think variation should all fall into protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of split sleeve structure chart method of inspection, which is characterized in that include the following steps：
S1, the clothes based on same model make multiple sleeve pieces and corresponding armhole according to different drafting methods；
The structural drawings of big sleeve piece and small sleeve piece are closed, the sleeve being closed by S2, the sleeve piece drawn to same drafting method
Piece；
S3, the basic principle positioned according to dress sleeve, the sleeve piece of closure are fixed on corresponding armhole drawing；
S4, according to dress tuck inside the sleeve after structure chart, measure it is all before partially sleeve bend line peaks and preceding armhole dress sleeve point between minimums
Spacing a, the minimum spacing b for measuring all sleeve mountain peaks and being closed between armhole peak, measurement is all to retrodeviate sleeve bend line
Minimum spacing c between peak and back armhole dress sleeve point, measures the deep amount of the placing H of all sleeves, measures all across back amount of placing W,
Measure all chest breadth amount of placing B and all sleeve width amount of placing S；
S5, using linear regression analysis, the data obtained in S4 are analyzed, obtain influence two panels sleeve structure design pass
Connection formula is as follows：
с=1.3+0.9B (1)
B=2.5-0.95c (2)
A=1.9+0.2b (3)
S6, the formula (1) according in S5, formula (2) and formula (3) draw abac；
S7, according to the abac in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is located in the confidence level section of abac, sleeve
Final product quality is qualified；If the data value measured in S4 is not in the confidence level section of abac, it will appear sleeve
Defect.
2. the split sleeve structure chart method of inspection as described in claim 1, which is characterized in that the sleeve defect packet in the step S7
It includes：Due to sleeve width it is too small and retrodeviate caused by sleeve height is excessively high the lateral pleat on sleeve bend line top, due to sleeve width is excessive and mountain of tucking inside the sleeve
It is high it is too low caused by retrodeviate the oblique pleat on sleeve bend line top, the typhloscle caused by sleeve height is insufficient on sleeve mountain and due to tucking inside the sleeve
Tuck caused by mountain is excessively high on sleeve mountain.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810366205.XA CN108564581B (en) | 2018-04-23 | 2018-04-23 | Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201810366205.XA CN108564581B (en) | 2018-04-23 | 2018-04-23 | Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN108564581A true CN108564581A (en) | 2018-09-21 |
| CN108564581B CN108564581B (en) | 2021-05-04 |
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| CN201810366205.XA Expired - Fee Related CN108564581B (en) | 2018-04-23 | 2018-04-23 | Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve |
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| JP2012144823A (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2012-08-02 | Yasuko Miyazato | Garment with sleeve, and paper pattern for the same |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
| CN106723566A (en) * | 2016-11-29 | 2017-05-31 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of clothes split sleeve |
| CN206380763U (en) * | 2016-12-30 | 2017-08-08 | 湖南师范大学 | A kind of cloth-cutting template |
-
2018
- 2018-04-23 CN CN201810366205.XA patent/CN108564581B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| JP2012144823A (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2012-08-02 | Yasuko Miyazato | Garment with sleeve, and paper pattern for the same |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
| CN106723566A (en) * | 2016-11-29 | 2017-05-31 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making method of clothes split sleeve |
| CN206380763U (en) * | 2016-12-30 | 2017-08-08 | 湖南师范大学 | A kind of cloth-cutting template |
Non-Patent Citations (4)
| Title |
|---|
| MAN-HONG JIM: "Shoulder technique: A modified sleeve technique devised for treating isolated coronary stenosis at side branch ostium", 《INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CARDIOLOGY》 * |
| 任娟: "男西装两片袖结构设计创新研究", 《中国优秀硕士学位论文全文数据库电子期刊 工程科技I辑》 * |
| 姚怡 等: "插肩袖袖山高与袖中线角度的关系", 《纺织学报》 * |
| 陈谦 等: "男西服袖隆几何参数的研究", 《中原工学院学报》 * |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN108564581B (en) | 2021-05-04 |
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