CN108564581B - Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve - Google Patents
Method for inspecting structure diagram of two-piece sleeve Download PDFInfo
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- CN108564581B CN108564581B CN201810366205.XA CN201810366205A CN108564581B CN 108564581 B CN108564581 B CN 108564581B CN 201810366205 A CN201810366205 A CN 201810366205A CN 108564581 B CN108564581 B CN 108564581B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 15
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000003337 fertilizer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 238000012417 linear regression Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 10
- 238000013507 mapping Methods 0.000 description 10
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009795 derivation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011031 large-scale manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000513 rotator cuff Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000547 structure data Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009897 systematic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001364 upper extremity Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- G—PHYSICS
- G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
- G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
- G06T7/00—Image analysis
- G06T7/0002—Inspection of images, e.g. flaw detection
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- G—PHYSICS
- G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
- G06F—ELECTRIC DIGITAL DATA PROCESSING
- G06F17/00—Digital computing or data processing equipment or methods, specially adapted for specific functions
- G06F17/10—Complex mathematical operations
- G06F17/18—Complex mathematical operations for evaluating statistical data, e.g. average values, frequency distributions, probability functions, regression analysis
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of clothing design, and discloses a method for inspecting a structure diagram of a two-piece sleeve, which comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: s1, drawing a plurality of sleeve sheets and corresponding armholes according to different drawing methods; s2, obtaining a closed sleeve sheet; s3, fixing the closed sleeve sheets on the corresponding armhole drawing according to the basic principle of sleeve positioning; s4, measuring the sleeve depth increasing and releasing quantity H, the back width increasing and releasing quantity W, the chest width increasing and releasing quantity B and the sleeve fertilizer increasing and releasing quantity S; s5, obtaining a correlation affecting the structural design of the two-piece sleeve by adopting a linear regression analysis method; s6, drawing a line graph; s7, judging that the data value measured in S4 is not in the reliability interval of the line-solving picture, the sleeve defect can appear, and the method for inspecting the structure picture of the two-piece sleeve works out the standard for inspecting the structure quality of the two-piece sleeve, and can control and eliminate the defect of the finished sleeve part in the picture-making stage.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment design, in particular to a method for inspecting a structure diagram of a two-piece sleeve.
Background
The rotator cuff structure is one of the most prominent structural parts in the overall jacket structure because it has styling requirements and involves the upper limbs and arms of the human body which have dynamic requirements. In past pattern designs, many of the design parameters were from practical experience, lacking theoretical studies and mathematical derivations. The design platemakers in the domestic clothing industry also make more research work one after another, but still have no systematic standard.
In the design of garment structures, it is a relatively complex step to establish a structural fit between the parts to be joined to each other, which should meet the overall requirements of joining, positioning, checking, etc. The quality of the finished product or the finished product of a certain structural part cannot be guaranteed by the conventional drawing inspection work. This is especially typical and complicated among them by the "armhole-sleeve" structure: concave armhole arcs belong to the front sleeve, the back sleeve and the convex armhole arcs. Usually, the drawing of armholes and armhole arcs is performed separately, and the quality inspection is performed only at the stage of sample garment.
The design of the sleeves is designed according to the shape of armpits of a human body and the motion state of arms of the human body. I.e. the design of the sleeve body is based on the armhole. The former studies are many but the analysis of the mapping stage and the discussion of better mapping methods, and there is no strict standard to make the two-piece sleeve control the quality of the finished product in the mapping stage. Therefore, it is necessary to provide an analysis about the matching of the structural parameters of the two pieces of sleeves, i.e. each structural part should have a good matching relationship with each other so that the armholes and sleeves of the two pieces of sleeves meet the comprehensive requirements of mutual combination, positioning, inspection, etc. The invention adopts a graphic analysis method to establish a structure inspection standard of two pieces of sleeves.
In the process of formulating a graph analysis system, basic conditions for quality inspection of a two-piece sleeve in a drawing stage are determined: the most typical two-piece sleeve format was chosen-men's suit sleeves. Selecting some important structural sites in the system, and analyzing the basic rules of mutual correlation between the important structural sites, wherein the paired structural parameters are as follows: the difference between the width of the sleeve fertilizer and the width of the armhole, and the difference between the depth of the armhole and the height of the sleeve mountain. We firstly measured a large number of these structural parts of the male western-style clothes drawings (same size 176/96) belonging to different ages, and obtained the dynamic curves of their historical changes, as shown in figure 1, there is a clear correlation between the structural parameters of the difference between the arm fat and the arm hole width, and the difference between the arm hole depth and the arm top height in theory.
The two-piece sleeve structure mapping methods at home and abroad are various and have characteristics all the time, but in conclusion, the typical two-piece sleeve mapping methods are basically divided into basic pattern mapping and proportional mapping. The proportional method is characterized in that the sizes of the bust and the sleeve length are measured, the detailed specifications of the sleeve depth, the sleeve width, the cuff and the like are calculated according to the size of the bust, but the value taking mode is one-sided, and only the influence of the size of the bust on the structure size of the sleeve is considered, so that the fit degree of the armhole and the sleeve top is possibly not good enough. The Chinese proportional method is the same, the control parts of the Italian structural method are the chest circumference and the arm length, in the structural design of the two pieces of sleeves of the English man western-style clothes, the design of the sleeve top part is very stressed to be matched with the sleeve hole structure of the cut piece, the strict characteristic of the structural design proportion of the English Italian clothes is intensively embodied, but the determining ratio of the sleeve top height and the sleeve fertilizer size depends on the size of the sleeve hole, and the influence of the chest circumference and the matching of the sleeve depth and the sleeve fertilizer are also considered.
In the mapping stage, such sleeve defects may occur if some structural parts are not well matched. For example: the transverse fold at the upper part of the rear partial sleeve turning line is caused by too low sleeve fertilizer and too high sleeve mountain; the oblique fold at the upper part of the rear partial sleeve turning line is caused by too large sleeve fat and too low sleeve height. This is due to the unbalanced ratio of the sleeve top height to the sleeve fertilizer or the unbalanced ratio of the sleeve ridge width to the sleeve fertilizer. In addition, the longitudinal folding pattern on the sleeve top can be caused by insufficient height of the sleeve top; too high sleeve top can cause transverse folds on the sleeve top, which are caused by the imbalance of the sleeve top and sleeve ridge depth matching ratio.
Therefore, in order to avoid sleeve defects caused by unbalanced proportion of sleeve structure parameters in the drawing stage, a method for inspecting the drawing of the two-piece sleeve is required.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a method for inspecting a structure drawing of a two-piece sleeve, which can solve the problems in the prior art.
The invention provides a method for inspecting a structure diagram of a two-piece sleeve, which comprises the following steps:
s1, manufacturing a plurality of sleeve pieces and corresponding armholes according to different drawing methods based on the clothes with the same type;
s2, for the sleeve sheets drawn by the same drawing method, closing the structural drawings of the big sleeve sheets and the small sleeve sheets to obtain closed sleeve sheets;
s3, fixing the closed sleeve sheets on the corresponding armhole drawing according to the basic principle of sleeve positioning;
s4, according to the structure chart after the sleeve is installed, measuring the minimum distance a between the highest point of all the front sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the front sleeves, measuring the minimum distance B between the highest point of all the sleeve mountains and the highest point of the closed sleeves, measuring the minimum distance c between the highest point of all the rear sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the rear sleeves, measuring all the sleeve depth adding and releasing amounts H, measuring all the back width adding and releasing amounts W, and measuring all the chest width adding and releasing amounts B and all the sleeve fertilizer adding and releasing amounts S;
s5, analyzing the data obtained in S4 by adopting a linear regression analysis method to obtain the correlation formula influencing the structure design of the two-piece sleeve as follows:
с＝1.3+0.9B (1)
b＝2.5–0.95c (2)
a＝1.9+0.2b (3)
s6, drawing an explanation diagram according to the formula (1), the formula (2) and the formula (3) in the S5;
s7, according to the line graph in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is within the confidence interval of the line graph, the finished quality of the sleeve is acceptable; if the data value measured in S4 is not within the confidence interval of the line graph, a sleeve defect may occur.
The sleeve defect in step S7 includes: a lateral fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too high sleeve mountains due to too low sleeve fat, a diagonal fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too low sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve fat, a longitudinal fold at the sleeve mountains due to insufficient sleeve mountains, and a lateral fold at the sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve mountains.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention comprehensively analyzes the drawings of the closed armhole and the sleeve structure, measures the related parts, processes the obtained data by using the analysis method of linear regression to obtain the mutual correlation among a series of structural parts, thereby making the standard for inspecting the structural quality of the two pieces of sleeves. Can control and eliminate the occurrence of the sleeve defects of the finished product in the drawing stage.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a trend chart of the historical changes of armhole and armhole parameters in the background art of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the positioning of the closed sleeve on the armhole graph and the measurement of the related parameters according to the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the correlation between the structural parameters of the armhole and sleeve and their confidence intervals.
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing the adjustment of the base model 80-year charting method.
Fig. 5 is a three-view of the sample garment.
Detailed Description
An embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to fig. 2 to 5, but it should be understood that the scope of the present invention is not limited by the embodiment.
As shown in fig. 2 and 3, the method for checking the structure of the two-piece sleeve provided by the embodiment of the invention comprises the following steps:
s1, manufacturing a plurality of sleeve pieces and corresponding armholes according to different drawing methods based on the clothes with the same type;
s2, for the sleeve sheets drawn by the same drawing method, closing the structural drawings of the big sleeve sheets and the small sleeve sheets to obtain closed sleeve sheets;
s3, fixing the closed sleeve sheets on the corresponding armhole drawing according to the basic principle of sleeve positioning;
s4, according to the structure chart after the sleeve is installed, measuring the minimum distance a between the highest point of all the front sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the front sleeves, measuring the minimum distance B between the highest point of all the sleeve mountains and the highest point of the closed sleeves, measuring the minimum distance c between the highest point of all the rear sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the rear sleeves, measuring all the sleeve depth adding and releasing amounts H, measuring all the back width adding and releasing amounts W, and measuring all the chest width adding and releasing amounts B and all the sleeve fertilizer adding and releasing amounts S;
s5, analyzing the data obtained in S4 by adopting a linear regression analysis method to obtain the correlation formula influencing the structure design of the two-piece sleeve as follows:
с＝1.3+0.9B (1)
b＝2.5–0.95c (2)
a＝1.9+0.2b (3)
s6, drawing an explanation diagram according to the formula (1), the formula (2) and the formula (3) in the S5;
s7, according to the line graph in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is within the confidence interval of the line graph, the finished quality of the sleeve is acceptable; if the data value measured in S4 is not within the confidence interval of the line graph, a sleeve defect may occur.
The sleeve defect in step S7 includes: a lateral fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too high sleeve mountains due to too low sleeve fat, a diagonal fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too low sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve fat, a longitudinal fold at the sleeve mountains due to insufficient sleeve mountains, and a lateral fold at the sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve mountains.
(A) an analysis step
1. A series of fourteen male suit sleeves and corresponding armholes are manufactured by collecting a large number of male suit sleeves under different drawing methods based on the same size (170/84A). The drawing of the same number for the structural drawing figures was chosen for the purpose of placing in the same configuration for comparison.
2. Closing the structural drawings of the big and small sleeve sheets according to specific steps.
3. The closed sleeve sheets are fixed on the armhole drawing on the basis of meeting the basic principle of sleeve positioning.
4. Measuring the minimum spacing of the selected structural parts on the sleeve cap and armhole drawings: a-the distance between the highest point of the front sleeve-deviating turning line and the sleeve-installing point of the front sleeve hole, b-the distance between the highest point of the sleeve cap and the highest point of the closed sleeve hole, c-the distance between the highest point of the rear sleeve-deviating turning line and the sleeve-installing point of the rear sleeve hole, and e and f. As shown in fig. 2:
the quality check at the sleeve drawing stage also requires the following raw data:
h-sleeve depth adding amount, W-back width adding amount, B-chest width adding amount, S-sleeve fertilizer adding amount
The adopted structural method comprises the following steps: russian 1, Russian 2, Russian 3, Russian 4, proportional method 1980, two proportional methods 1994, proportional method 1997, proportional method 2000, proportional method 2002, radical method 1980, radical method 1998, Italy 1998, England 1988, France 1977, Japan 2000, Germany. Wherein the value of a is 1-3.5, and the average value is 1.98; the value of b is-1 to 1, and the average value is-0.25; the average value of c is 3.1 in the range of 2-3.5; d is 0-4, and the average value is 1.4; the value of e is 3.3-4.6; the average value was 3.9; f is 1.8-2.9, and the average value is 2.5; h is 3-5, and the average value is 3.7; the value of W is 1.2-2.5, and the average value is 1.9; the value of B is 1-2.5, and the average value is 1.6; the value of S is 4.5-9, and the average value is 6.5. (the unit of each parameter value is cm)
(II) analysis results
In order to calculate the possible correlation between the analysis parameters, the application uses a linear regression analysis method. The data obtained were processed to obtain 3 sets of correlations in the relationship that had a greater impact on the design of the two-piece sleeve structure as follows:
a-the distance between the highest point of the front sleeve-deviating turning line and the sleeve-installing point of the front sleeve hole, b-the distance between the highest point of the sleeve cap and the highest point of the closed sleeve hole, c-the distance between the highest point of the rear sleeve-deviating turning line and the sleeve-installing point of the rear sleeve hole, and e and f.
с＝1.3+0.9B (1)
b＝2.5–0.95c (2)
a＝1.9+0.2b (3)
Fig. 3 shows their line-up diagram. If these structure data values of the drawing are within our derived confidence interval, the finished quality of the sleeve will be ideal; if the sleeve is not located in the section, sleeve defects may occur.
The 4 areas marked in figure 3 in the form of ellipses represent the possible occurrence of defects:
1. the transverse pleat at the upper part of the turning line of the rear partial sleeve,
2. the oblique pleat at the upper part of the turning line of the rear partial sleeve,
3. longitudinal folds on the sleeve tops caused by insufficient sleeve tops,
4. transverse folds in the sleeve tops due to too high sleeve tops.
The association shown in fig. 3 may be used in the following cases:
1. the basic boundaries of the sleeve are determined in the sleeve drawing stage,
2. the allowed deviation between the armhole and the armhole is determined when analyzing and examining the drawings.
(one) verification step
1. Selecting a structure diagram of which the parameters in the drawing stage are out of the inspection standard to adjust, so that the structure parameters are in the inspection standard, calculating the numerical values of all parts of the two sleeves by using the adjusted parameters, and drawing a 1: 1 layout diagram.
By analysis, the present application selected the baseline 80 generation cartographic data for adjustment because the baseline 80 generation data deviated far from the standard according to the resulting inspection standards. The parameters of the structure method are adjusted according to the inspection standards obtained in the previous section, and the values before and after adjustment are shown in the following table 1:
TABLE 1 adjustment of base model 80 s charting parameters
The adjustment process is shown in fig. 4, in which the solid line part is in a state before adjustment and the dotted line part is in a state after adjustment.
2. And manufacturing a sleeve pattern according to the adjusted structure diagram, cutting and sewing to manufacture a sleeve with good process and a half corresponding to the sleeve, and finally installing the sleeve on the clothes body.
3. And (5) putting the prepared sample clothes on a corresponding mannequin, and observing whether the contour modeling is complete or not and whether defects exist or not.
(II) test results
The finished sample clothes were put on the corresponding mannequin and the contour modeling was observed, and as shown in fig. 5, it was found that the appearance of the sleeves produced by the original two-piece sleeve structure drawing was adjusted according to the matching standard of the two-piece sleeve structure parameters, the sleeve mountains were rounded, the sleeves were naturally inclined forward by a certain angle, and no defect existed at the parts above and below the sleeve elbows. The whole sleeves are well shaped, and the expected target is achieved.
Conclusion
1. By learning the general theoretical knowledge of the two-piece sleeves, the structural design of the two-piece sleeves is known to consider the functionality of the sleeves on the basis of meeting the modeling property. While structural mapping is a very important stage, it would be very meaningful to have control over the quality of the two-piece sleeve at this stage.
2. After the cartographic analysis of the structure of the two pieces of sleeves is finished, the quality of the cartographic chart can be well guaranteed only if the structure parameters of the two pieces of sleeves accord with certain matching relations.
3. The graphical analysis method is used to obtain a set of inspection standards in the two-sleeve mapping stage as follows:
с＝1.3+0.9B (1)
b＝2.5–0.95c (2)
a＝1.9+0.2b (3)
wherein, a is the distance between the highest point of the front sleeve-deviating turning line and the sleeve mounting point of the front sleeve hole, B is the distance between the highest point of the sleeve cap and the highest point of the closed sleeve hole, c is the highest point of the rear sleeve-deviating turning line, and B is the chest width increasing amount.
The standard was validated by physical fabrication.
It can be concluded that it is possible to eliminate the sleeve defects or to determine the cause of the occurrence of sleeve defects in the structural drawing phase, thus ensuring the quality of the finished garment. In theory, the prediction before production can be carried out, so that the production quality is controlled, and the current situation of industrial large-scale production is improved.
The above disclosure is only for a few specific embodiments of the present invention, however, the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any variations that can be made by those skilled in the art are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. A method for checking a structure drawing of a two-piece sleeve is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1, manufacturing a plurality of sleeve pieces and corresponding armholes according to different drawing methods based on the clothes with the same type;
s2, for the sleeve sheets drawn by the same drawing method, closing the structural drawings of the big sleeve sheets and the small sleeve sheets to obtain closed sleeve sheets;
s3, fixing the closed sleeve sheets on the corresponding armhole drawing according to the basic principle of sleeve positioning;
s4, according to the structure chart after the sleeve is installed, measuring the minimum distance a between the highest point of all the front sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the front sleeves, measuring the minimum distance B between the highest point of all the sleeve mountains and the highest point of the closed sleeves, measuring the minimum distance c between the highest point of all the rear sleeve-deviating turning lines and the sleeve installing points of the rear sleeves, measuring all the sleeve depth adding and releasing amounts H, measuring all the back width adding and releasing amounts W, and measuring all the chest width adding and releasing amounts B and all the sleeve fertilizer adding and releasing amounts S;
s5, analyzing the data obtained in S4 by adopting a linear regression analysis method to obtain the correlation formula influencing the structure design of the two-piece sleeve as follows:
с＝1.3+0.9B (1)
b＝2.5–0.95c (2)
a＝1.9+0.2b (3)
s6, drawing an explanation diagram according to the formula (1), the formula (2) and the formula (3) in the S5;
s7, according to the line graph in S6, if the data value measured in S4 is within the confidence interval of the line graph, the finished quality of the sleeve is acceptable; if the data value measured in S4 is not within the confidence interval of the line graph, a sleeve defect may occur.
2. The method for inspecting a two-piece sleeve structure drawing according to claim 1, wherein the sleeve defect in the step S7 includes: a lateral fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too high sleeve mountains due to too low sleeve fat, a diagonal fold at the upper part of the rear sleeve turning line caused by too low sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve fat, a longitudinal fold at the sleeve mountains due to insufficient sleeve mountains, and a lateral fold at the sleeve mountains due to too high sleeve mountains.
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2018
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
| JP2012144823A (en) * | 2011-01-13 | 2012-08-02 | Yasuko Miyazato | Garment with sleeve, and paper pattern for the same |
| CN106418850A (en) * | 2016-10-11 | 2017-02-22 | 合肥师范学院 | Method for manufacturing two-piece sleeve basic pattern of women's suit |
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