CN102488343B - Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method - Google Patents
Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method Download PDFInfo
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- CN102488343B CN102488343B CN201110459233.4A CN201110459233A CN102488343B CN 102488343 B CN102488343 B CN 102488343B CN 201110459233 A CN201110459233 A CN 201110459233A CN 102488343 B CN102488343 B CN 102488343B
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- sleeve
- line
- raglan
- inclination angle
- point
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Abstract
The invention relates to a fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method, which comprises the following steps: building a mathematical model between the inclination angle and body and sleeve intersection and the static elegance, dynamic comfort and static and dynamic elegance and fit of the raglan sleeve; preparing a rear garment piece model, determining shoulder width, a post 1/4 chest width point, a waistline and a post central line and well collecting the dart of the rear piece; and determining the value of the inclination angle of the rear sleeve, the length of the sleeve and cuff; determining the intersection of the rear garment body and the garment piece, drawing a tangent line, which passes through the intersection, of a rear arm hole line, drawing a muscle line which is symmetric with the rear arm hole line below the intersection about the tangent line, and determining sleeve cap height; preparing a front garment piece model, determining the shoulder width, a front 1/4 chest width point, the waistline and the width of front over lap, and collecting a chest dart and a waist dart; drawing a front sleeve central line, sleeve length and cuff; and drawing a vertical line of the sleeve central line according the sleeve cap height of the rear piece, determining a point, which a tangent line serving as a symmetric axis of the front chest width point and a point on the vertical line passes through, on the front armhole curve, determining sleeve width and well drawing a front sleeve piece. The fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method facilitates flexible structural design of garments.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing technical field, particularly relate to a kind of fit raglan sleeve model designing and manufacturing method.
Background technology
Raglan sleeve is to be only second to the sleeve type that circle dress sleeve is used morely.From textural, circle dress sleeve be taking the trunk of human body with the boundary line arm rhizosphere line of upper limbs as boundary, the structural design of respectively clothing body and the body of tucking inside the sleeve being carried out; And raglan sleeve is trunk to human body and the structural design of upper limbs region band, related body scale is more, and structural design has certain difficulty.A long-term process has been experienced in the research of raglan sleeve, can find out from the documents and materials of consulting, at present raglan sleeve is carried out to a large amount of research in the industry, from modeling structure, from being designed into technique, static and dynamic, qualitative and quantitative, and various correlative factors that affect raglan sleeve etc. are compared to deep research, also draw a large amount of quantitative regular conclusions.But in traditional structural design, be all rule of thumb first to determine raglan sleeve inclination angle, after inclination angle is determined, design sleeve mountain high, determine cross point between body and sleeve, carry out raglan sleeve sample making.Between the aesthetic property of inclination angle and sleeve, comfortableness, do not have rule to seek, be not easy to carry out flexibly structural design.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of fit raglan sleeve model designing and manufacturing method, solves in fit raglan sleeve model design process, and sleeve inclination angle, the definite science of cross point between body and sleeve, enrich the method that raglan sleeve model designs and produces.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is: a kind of fit raglan sleeve model designing and manufacturing method is provided, comprises the following steps:
(1) set up raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property Y
1, dynamic comfortableness Y
2, sound state fitness Y attractive in appearance
3between Mathematical Modeling;
(2) get rear garment piece prototype, determine shoulder breadth, the wide point of rear 1/4 chest measurement, waistline, CB, and keep rear panel provincial highway well;
(3) determine rear coat-sleeve inclination angle value X
1, sleeve length, cuff;
(4) determine the value X of back coat and garment piece crosspoint O
2, crosspoint O makes the tangent line of back armhole line excessively, and the back armhole camber line below the O of crosspoint, with tangent line symmetry, is drawn to BICEP line, and the mountain that obtains tucking inside the sleeve is high;
(5) cross crosspoint O design model back armhole camber line and rear cap arc line, rear sleeve center line, rear sleeve bottom line are drawn smoother;
(6) get front cut pieces prototype, determine shoulder breadth, front 1/4 chest measurement live width point, waistline, folded gate-width, receive chest and economize He Yao province;
(7) draw foresleeve center line, sleeve length, cuff;
(8) according to the high vertical line of making sleeve center line in rear panel sleeve mountain, finish front armhole curve;
(9) foresleeve center line, foresleeve bottom line are drawn smoother.
In described step (1), set up raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property Y
1, dynamic comfortableness Y
2, sound state fitness Y attractive in appearance
3between Mathematical Modeling be respectively:
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate Y
1between Mathematical Modeling Y
1=1.105-0.014X
1+ 0.052X
2;
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with dynamic Comfort Evaluation value Y
2between Mathematical Modeling Y
2=0.969-0.015X
1+ 0.06X
2;
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with sound state fit assessment value attractive in appearance Y
3between Mathematical Modeling, when static aesthetic property is when dynamically the weight ratio of comfortableness is 0.5:0.5, Y
3=1.037-0.014X
1+ 0.056X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.4:0.6 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.023-0.014X
1+ 0.057X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.6:0.4 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.051-0.014X
1+ 0.055X
2.
Described raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1between 40 °～45 °.
Cross point between body and sleeve X
2between 3.8cm～6.6cm.
Beneficial effect
Owing to having adopted above-mentioned technical scheme, the present invention compared with prior art, there is following advantage and good effect: the present invention has enriched this type of raglan sleeve model method for designing, make this type of raglan sleeve sample making process more accurately with easy, and set up corresponding Mathematical Modeling and solve the relevant issues of this type of raglan sleeve model, be version's teacher reference.The present invention can be closely related with vast garment enterprise model design and fabrication, produces a set of effective practical technique is provided for fit raglan sleeve clothing industry, has stronger practical value, social effect, theoretical reference value, reduces plate-making difficulty.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is fit raglan sleeve garment fashion drawing;
Fig. 2 is the model schematic diagram after completing steps 2 in embodiment;
Fig. 3 is the model schematic diagram after completing steps 3 in embodiment;
Fig. 4 is the model schematic diagram after completing steps 4 in embodiment;
Fig. 5 is the model schematic diagram after completing steps 8 in embodiment.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment are only not used in and limit the scope of the invention for the present invention is described.In addition should be understood that those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after having read the content of the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims limited range equally.
Embodiment
Set up raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property Y
1, dynamic comfortableness Y
2, sound state fitness Y attractive in appearance
3between Mathematical Modeling:
(A) raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate Y
1between Mathematical Modeling Y
1=1.105-0.014X
1+ 0.052X
2.
(B) raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with dynamic Comfort Evaluation value Y
2between Mathematical Modeling Y
2=0.969-0.015X
1+ 0.06X
2.
(C) raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with sound state fit assessment value attractive in appearance Y
3between Mathematical Modeling, when static aesthetic property is when dynamically the weight ratio of comfortableness is 0.5:0.5, Y
3=1.037-0.014X
1+ 0.056X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.4:0.6 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.023-0.014X
1+ 0.057X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.6:0.4 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.051-0.014X
1+ 0.055X
2.
Should be wherein, Y
1, Y
2, Y
3∈ [0,1]; X
1∈ [40 °, 45 °]; X
2∈ [3.8,6.6].
Taking cross point between body and sleeve as 5.5cm as example (style figure is as Fig. 1), this type of model is designed and produced below, select sound state beautiful and comfortable property evaluation of estimate Mathematical Modeling weight (0.5,0.5), set Y
3=0.771, Y
3=1.037-0.014X
1+ 0.056X
2, obtain raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1be 41 °, the preparation method of this type of model is described.Its concrete steps are as follows:
(1) get rear garment piece prototype, determine shoulder breadth, the wide point of rear 1/4 chest measurement, waistline, CB, and keep rear panel provincial highway well.
(2) determine 41 ° of rear coat-sleeve inclination angle values, sleeve length, cuff (see figure 2).
(3) determine that back coat and garment piece crosspoint O(are apart from BL BUST LINE 5.5cm), crosspoint O makes the tangent line of back armhole line excessively, and the back armhole camber line below the O of crosspoint, with tangent line symmetry, is drawn to BICEP line, and the high (see figure 3) in mountain obtains tucking inside the sleeve.
(4) cross crosspoint O design model back armhole camber line and rear cap arc line, rear sleeve center line, rear sleeve bottom line are drawn to smoother (see figure 4).
(5) get front cut pieces prototype, determine shoulder breadth, front 1/4 chest measurement live width point, waistline, folded gate-width, receive chest and economize He Yao province.
(6) draw foresleeve center line, sleeve length, cuff.
(7) according to the high vertical line of making sleeve center line in rear panel sleeve mountain, finish front armhole curve.
(8) foresleeve center line, foresleeve bottom line are drawn to smoother (see figure 5).
Claims (1)
1. a fit raglan sleeve model designing and manufacturing method, is characterized in that, comprises the following steps:
(1) set up raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property Y
1, dynamic comfortableness Y
2, sound state fitness Y attractive in appearance
3between Mathematical Modeling; Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property Y
1, dynamic comfortableness Y
2, sound state fitness Y attractive in appearance
3between Mathematical Modeling be respectively:
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with static aesthetic property evaluation of estimate Y
1between Mathematical Modeling Y
1=1.105-0.014X
1+ 0.052X
2;
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with dynamic Comfort Evaluation value Y
2between Mathematical Modeling Y
2=0.969-0.015X
1+ 0.06X
2;
Raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1, cross point between body and sleeve X
2with sound state fit assessment value attractive in appearance Y
3between Mathematical Modeling, when static aesthetic property is when dynamically the weight ratio of comfortableness is 0.5:0.5, Y
3=1.037-0.014X
1+ 0.056X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.4:0.6 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.023-0.014X
1+ 0.057X
2; In the time that static aesthetic property is 0.6:0.4 with the weight ratio of dynamic comfortableness, Y
3=1.051-0.014X
1+ 0.055X
2; Wherein, described raglan sleeve inclination angle X
1between 40 °～45 °; Described cross point between body and sleeve X
2between 3.8cm～6.6cm; Y
1, Y
2, Y
3∈ [0,1];
(2) get rear garment piece prototype, determine shoulder breadth, the wide point of rear 1/4 chest measurement, waistline, CB, and keep rear panel provincial highway well;
(3) determine rear coat-sleeve inclination angle value X
1, sleeve length, cuff;
(4) determine the value X of back coat and garment piece crosspoint O
2, crosspoint O makes the tangent line of back armhole line excessively, and the back armhole camber line below the O of crosspoint, with tangent line symmetry, is drawn to BICEP line, and the mountain that obtains tucking inside the sleeve is high;
(5) cross crosspoint O point design model back armhole camber line and rear cap arc line, rear sleeve center line, rear sleeve bottom line are drawn smoother;
(6) get front cut pieces prototype, determine shoulder breadth, front 1/4 chest measurement live width point, waistline, folded gate-width, receive chest and economize He Yao province;
(7) draw foresleeve center line, sleeve length, cuff;
(8) according to the high vertical line of making sleeve center line in rear panel sleeve mountain, finish front armhole curve;
(9) foresleeve center line, foresleeve bottom line are drawn smoother.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201110459233.4A CN102488343B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201110459233.4A CN102488343B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN102488343A CN102488343A (en) | 2012-06-13 |
| CN102488343B true CN102488343B (en) | 2014-07-02 |
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ID=46180258
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201110459233.4A Expired - Fee Related CN102488343B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN102488343B (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103610252B (en) * | 2013-06-21 | 2015-04-01 | 胡亨有 | JF original number tailoring method of clothing raglan sleeve |
| CN104397918B (en) * | 2014-11-05 | 2016-02-10 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of plate-making of jacket class another garment sleeve and method of sewing |
| CN104585943B (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-11-25 | 胡亨有 | The former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist |
| CN109105964A (en) * | 2018-09-04 | 2019-01-01 | 四川大学 | A kind of raglan sleeve jacket and its sewing tech method |
| CN109259370B (en) * | 2018-11-09 | 2024-02-20 | 潍坊尚德服饰有限公司 | Rotary armhole sleeve matching method for student uniform and rotary armhole sleeve matching clothing body structure |
| CN112075701A (en) * | 2019-06-12 | 2020-12-15 | 四川大学 | Drawing method for compatibility of raglan armhole and sleeve top arc |
| CN114259101A (en) * | 2021-10-19 | 2022-04-01 | 浙江爱蒙思服饰有限公司 | Linkage printing method for body and sleeve of clothes |
| CN114521706A (en) * | 2022-03-04 | 2022-05-24 | 江西服装学院 | Design method of U-shaped armhole sleeve cap arc line |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RU2118500C1 (en) * | 1997-07-01 | 1998-09-10 | Амурский государственный университет | Method for plotting raglan sleeve curve |
| CN1322502A (en) * | 2000-05-10 | 2001-11-21 | 路红 | Raglan sleeve cutting method |
| CN1391854A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Determining method for cutting clothes integrated raglan sleeve middle line angle |
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
-
2011
- 2011-12-31 CN CN201110459233.4A patent/CN102488343B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RU2118500C1 (en) * | 1997-07-01 | 1998-09-10 | Амурский государственный университет | Method for plotting raglan sleeve curve |
| CN1322502A (en) * | 2000-05-10 | 2001-11-21 | 路红 | Raglan sleeve cutting method |
| CN1391854A (en) * | 2001-06-20 | 2003-01-22 | 葛俊康 | Determining method for cutting clothes integrated raglan sleeve middle line angle |
| CN1452924A (en) * | 2002-04-25 | 2003-11-05 | 葛俊康 | Sectional cutting method for back folded lines of raglan sleeve |
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|---|---|
| CN102488343A (en) | 2012-06-13 |
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