The former figure tailoring method of PJF of clothes bubble sleeve mountain moulding
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing manufacture method, especially relate to the former figure tailoring method of PJF of a kind of clothes based on human body raw measurement data bubble sleeve mountain moulding.
Background technology
The mountain moulding of clothes bubble sleeve belongs to garment sleeve mountain line wrinkle type style, and whether wrinkle amount and bubble sleeve height value be supporting to human body comfort, all very important to the cutting manufacture of hubble-bubble sleeve clothes with armhole girth.The proportional type of existing clothes bubble sleeve mountain tailoring technique, fundamental mode, D type ... etc. multiple cutting-out method, the fixed numbers such as employing 11,13 determine the build height steeping sleeve mountain.Also have and first draw fundamental mode figure's, wherein most is representational is Japanese New Culture prototype, employing is less than clothing specification and is greater than the numerical computations picture sanction dress model plate of human body surface, contrast prototype board again and draw sanction clothes profiled sheeting, the relation between its profiled sheeting bubble sleeve mountain wrinkle amount, build height, armhole girth three elements only judges by rule of thumb.These technology cannot determine bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix according to armhole girth, are not suitable with the style change demand of market-oriented clothes, make the trial-manufacturing process of clothes take larger manpower and materials and time, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.Publication date is on September 19th, 2007, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN101036537A discloses a kind of 180 ° of digitalized clothing plate making technical schemes, which disclose a kind of clothing plate making of wide spectrum, structure-design technique, chest breadth, across back, armhole depth, sleeve mountain BICEP only have the disadvantage of only result with dead formula to be in decades intended to solve clothing plate making technology.This invention then adopts angle, numeral, equation to calculate, and is intended to make clothing plate making technology have regularity and broad spectrum activity.Its technical essential is: shoulder moulding is with 180 °, 181 °, 182 °, 183 ° ... angle represents or 6.8,6.7,6.6,6.5 ... numerical calculation, armhole depth equation: average armhole depth × 0.85=the best sleeve mountain calculates, and mountain BICEP of tucking inside the sleeve can be determined by ideal simultaneously, and this technology can be used for clothing industry plate-making, Clothing Structure Design and tailoring etc.But method that what the sleeve height of this technology was directly proportional to armhole depth solve exists cannot determine to steep according to predetermined armhole girth the problem of mountain radix of tucking inside the sleeve, the sleeve mountain variation in moulding of steeping sleeve mountain and so on is subject to many limitations, there is larger shortcoming in the clothes of its design, and cannot meet the style change requirement on garment sleeve mountain in the comfortableness of human body.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is: existing for the bubble sleeve mountain moulding method of cutting out solving prior art time-consuming longer, garment market cannot be met to problems such as the precision rate requests that dress ornament convert, provide a kind of cutting quick, garment market steeps mountain moulding of the tucking inside the sleeve former figure tailoring method of PJF to the clothes of the precision rate request that dress ornament convert can be met.
Above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly solved by following technical proposals: the former figure tailoring method of PJF of a kind of clothes bubble sleeve mountain moulding, comprises the following steps:
A is according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion determination armhole girth, sleeve length, chest measurement.
The former number of clothes adds based on human body raw measurement data the clothing product specification value put loose measure and style variable quantity and determine, contains clothes fashion change and human comfort two factor greatly.Former figure tailoring method is newly-created tailoring basic theory, relates to multiple positions in tailoring field.Such as, for two kinds of people that arm rhizosphere is 46,48, the armhole girth that China travelling trader can be steeped sleeve shirt is all written as 50, the armhole girth of wind coat is all written as 53, and the armhole girth of the bubble sleeve shirt of this kind of people can be defined as 54 according to the dressing habit of Middle East by the travelling trader of middle east, the armhole girth of wind coat is defined as 58.But the actual arm rhizosphere not marking the human body of affiliated specification is how many, clothes amplification quantity is how many.And the same China's " garment size standard " of prior art, never establish armhole week long size, do not establish human body arm rhizosphere radix yet.Therefore, does is the style variable quantity comprised in each specification how many in the face of a clothes order? there is no definite numerical basis.Prior art draw cut out without the dress model plate of style name, drafting fundamental mode figure be less than clothing specification, be greater than human body surface, dream up out without the clothes numerical value of style variable quantity, lacking the numerical value of the large factor of clothes two, is cause one of dress model plate, fundamental mode figure key factor lacking practical use.And former figure tailoring method is according to armhole girth former number design cutting bubble sleeve mountain line, the bubble sleeve mountain key element obtained meets the former number of clothes, the dressing habit of various crowd and the requirement to the change of the style of clothes and comfort level can be met, the object of Fast trim plate-making can be reached.
B. determine that bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix code name is P, sleeve mountain baseline code name is J, and BICEP line code name is F, determines J=armhole girth/2.
C. determine: chest measurement * 0.2=fit type BICEP width, sheet overlap of being tucked inside the sleeve front and back is drawn and is cut out, drawing the material left and right doubling of cutting out sleeve sheet, broken line is determined sleeve length line, sleeve height point, according to sleeve height point flat picture BICEP wide line, vertically being drawn with sleeve length line parallel by BICEP wide line left end and the BICEP line F of equal length, connecting sleeve length line by holding picture cuff line under BICEP line level with both hands.
D. aim at BICEP line by sleeve height point and tiltedly draw sleeve mountain baseline J, the intersection point of sleeve mountain baseline and BICEP line is defined as mountain line endpoints of tucking inside the sleeve; Confirm that sleeve mountain line endpoints is to BICEP line upper extreme point=sleeve height; Sleeve height value be measured or be calculated to actual picture in sanction need not.
E. determine: the wrinkle amount=bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix=P of bubble sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/2, mountain are the wrinkle amount of bulla sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/3, mountain are the wrinkle amount of middle bubble sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/4, mountain are the wrinkle amount of vesicle sleeve mountain line, upwards vertically draw bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix line P from sleeve height point and determine bubble sleeve height point, pointed with the finger or gesticulate by bubble sleeve height point alignment sleeve mountain line end and steep sleeve mountain baseline, draw the edge of a knife at BICEP wide line with 1/2 place of the bubble of hypomere sleeve mountain baseline (namely BICEP wide line is with the mid point of the bubble of hypomere sleeve mountain baseline).
F. from bubble sleeve mountain baseline and BICEP wide line intersection point up the vertical bubble drawing length=0.8P to tuck inside the sleeve mountain guide line, determine bubble sleeve mountain line camber point, by bubble sleeve height point to sleeve mountain line camber point with the finger or gesticulate outwards arch upward in string of a musical instrument 0.05P camber line, draw by camber point to knife-edge part the camber line outwards arched upward in string of a musical instrument 0.15P and form bubble sleeve mountain line, and draw to sleeve mountain line endpoints from knife-edge part along sleeve mountain baseline, complete bubble sleeve mountain line modelling thus; More than the edge of a knife be wherein the bubble sleeve mountain line of necessary wrinkle, for not allowing the sleeve mountain line of wrinkle below the edge of a knife.
Do not allow the sleeve mountain line of wrinkle in fact to determine sleeve mountain line endpoints below the edge of a knife, bubble sleeve mountain line will spend wrinkle amount in the technique sewed up with armhole perimeter line, so, need not verify by the length of the bubble sleeve mountain line of sleeve mountain control line gained.Here the string of a musical instrument is the line between camber line Origin And Destination, outwards arching upward here, is to point to arch upward away from the direction of clothing center line.
G. determine cuff large=2/3 BICEP width (namely actual cuff size accounts for 2/3 of drawn cuff line length), sleeve bottom line is drawn to cuff line 2/3 from sleeve mountain line endpoints, seam cutting bubble sleeve sleeve sheet is put according to bubble sleeve mountain mo(u)lding line, sleeve bottom line, cuff line, then, open lower floor as front sleeve piece, form foresleeve mountain line by the edge of a knife to the sleeve mountain line end camber line inwardly arched upward in string of a musical instrument 0.1P of pointing with the finger or gesticulate, namely obtain clothes profiled sheeting bubble sleeve sleeve sheet.Here the string of a musical instrument is the line of camber line Origin And Destination, inwardly arching upward here, is to point to arch upward near the direction of clothing center line.
In step c in the above-mentioned methods, loose type BICEP width=chest measurement * 0.25, close-fitting type BICEP width=chest measurement * 0.15.
In step e in the above-mentioned methods, determine the wrinkle amount=bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix=P steeping sleeve mountain line, bubble wrinkle amount and the bubble of mountain line mountain build height of tuck inside the sleeve of tucking inside the sleeve is directly proportional, and the bubble making operator can realize all size according to the former number substep of armhole girth is tucked inside the sleeve the setting-out of sheet, cutting, making sheet.
The curved line arched upward of the present invention, is circular arc line, its amount arched upward, and is the maximum deviation amount of circular arc and its string of a musical instrument; Described flat picture refers to the horizontal setting-out of " one " font of left and right directions, and vertical picture refers to the vertical setting-out of " 1 " font of above-below direction; In addition, the bubble sleeve sleeve sheet that the present invention only relates to former figure tailoring method series draws sanction technology, the picture sanction new technology of other position key element or has been carried out another item patent of invention and has been declared, the present invention does not relate to, do not describe the core content of another item patent of invention, and these the present invention do not relate to or the clear place described all can adopt the routine of prior art to draw sanction method.In addition, title of the present invention and code name only represent the difference with other method of cutting out, and cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothes profiled sheeting by the technology of the present invention, model is used for the clothing cutting plate that batch production cut out by picture, also directly can be drawn by cloth and be cut into the cut-parts of single-piece tailored costume.The computing formula of institute of the present invention foundation determines through verification experimental verification many times the clothes of different size, facts have proved that it is for the good applicability of the equal tool of clothes of different size, according to said method calculate setting-out and cut out clothes, not only simple and fast, and accuracy is very high, the human comfort of clothes is fine.The present invention does not draw paper cutting board in addition to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, and just can realize picture according to the former number design of clothes and cut out object, be a kind of garment cutting method of simple and practical environmental protection and energy saving.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: existing for the bubble sleeve mountain moulding method of cutting out solving prior art time-consuming longer, garment market cannot be met to problems such as the precision rate requests that dress ornament convert, realize a kind of cutting quick, garment market steeps mountain moulding of the tucking inside the sleeve former figure tailoring method of PJF to the clothes of the precision rate request that dress ornament convert can be met.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is a kind of schematic diagram of the former figure tailoring method of PJF of clothes of the present invention bubble sleeve mountain moulding.
In figure: 1. sleeve length line, 2. sleeve height point, 3. BICEP wide line, 4. cuff line, mountain line endpoints of 5. tucking inside the sleeve, 6. steep sleeve height point, 7. bubble sleeve mountain baseline, the 8. edge of a knife, 9. camber point, 10. bubble sleeve mountain line, 11. sleeve bottom lines, 12. foresleeve mountain lines, P. bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix line, J. sleeve mountain baseline, F. BICEP line.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, the former figure tailoring method of PJF of a kind of clothes bubble sleeve mountain moulding, comprises the following steps:
A is according to the former number of clothes of anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion determination armhole girth, sleeve length, chest measurement.
B. determine that bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix code name is P, sleeve mountain baseline code name is J, and BICEP line code name is F, determines J=armhole girth/2.
C. determine: chest measurement * 0.2=fit type BICEP width, sheet overlap of being tucked inside the sleeve front and back is drawn and is cut out, drawing the material left and right doubling of cutting out sleeve sheet, broken line is determined sleeve length line 1, sleeve height point 2, according to sleeve height point flat picture BICEP wide line 3, vertically being drawn with sleeve length line parallel by BICEP wide line left end and the BICEP line F of equal length, connecting sleeve length line by holding picture cuff line 4 under BICEP line level with both hands.
D. aim at BICEP line by sleeve height point and tiltedly draw sleeve mountain baseline J, the intersection point of sleeve mountain baseline and BICEP line is defined as mountain line endpoints 5 of tucking inside the sleeve; Confirm that sleeve mountain line endpoints is to BICEP line upper extreme point=sleeve height, need not solve sleeve height value.
E. determine: the wrinkle amount=bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix=P of bubble sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/2, mountain are the wrinkle amount of bulla sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/3, mountain are the wrinkle amount of middle bubble sleeve mountain line, sleeve baseline value/4, mountain are the wrinkle amount of vesicle sleeve mountain line, upwards vertically draw bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix line P from sleeve height point and determine bubble sleeve height point 6, pointed with the finger or gesticulate by bubble sleeve height point alignment sleeve mountain line end and steep sleeve mountain baseline 7, draw the edge of a knife 8 at BICEP wide line with 1/2 place of the bubble of hypomere sleeve mountain baseline.
F. from bubble sleeve mountain baseline and BICEP wide line intersection point up the vertical bubble drawing length=0.8P to tuck inside the sleeve mountain guide line, determine bubble sleeve mountain line camber point 9, by bubble sleeve height point to sleeve mountain line camber point with the finger or gesticulate outwards arch upward in string of a musical instrument 0.05P camber line, draw by camber point to knife-edge part the camber line outwards arched upward in string of a musical instrument 0.15P and form bubble sleeve mountain line 10, and draw to sleeve mountain line endpoints from knife-edge part along sleeve mountain baseline, complete bubble sleeve mountain line modelling thus; More than the edge of a knife be wherein the bubble sleeve mountain line of necessary wrinkle, for not allowing the sleeve mountain line of wrinkle below the edge of a knife.
G. determine cuff large=2/3 BICEP width, sleeve bottom line 11 is drawn to cuff line 2/3 from sleeve mountain line endpoints, seam cutting bubble sleeve sleeve sheet is put according to bubble sleeve mountain mo(u)lding line, sleeve bottom line, cuff line, then, open lower floor as front sleeve piece, form foresleeve mountain line 12 by the edge of a knife to the sleeve mountain line end camber line inwardly arched upward in string of a musical instrument 0.1P of pointing with the finger or gesticulate, namely obtain clothes profiled sheeting bubble sleeve sleeve sheet.
In step e, determine the wrinkle amount=bubble sleeve mountain moulding radix=P steeping sleeve mountain line, bubble wrinkle amount and the bubble of mountain line mountain build height of tuck inside the sleeve of tucking inside the sleeve is directly proportional, and the bubble making operator can realize all size according to the former number substep of armhole girth is tucked inside the sleeve the setting-out of sheet, cutting, making sheet.
In the above-described embodiments, for the clothes of loose type, BICEP width=chest measurement * 0.25, for the clothes of close-fitting type, BICEP width=chest measurement * 0.15, then form new embodiment.
The design cutting making sheet that the technology of the present invention steeps sleeve is whether great or small all applicable, and do not draw sanction non-targeted cardboard, graphic correlation estimation in addition, additionally do not produce waste paper garbage, there is the features such as defining method that is easy to operate, the mountain moulding of bubble sleeve is simply accurate, existing for the bubble sleeve mountain formative method solving prior art time-consuming longer, garment market cannot be met to problems such as the precision rate requests that dress ornament convert, realize a kind of cutting quick, garment market steeps mountain moulding of the tucking inside the sleeve former figure tailoring method of PJF to the clothes of the precision rate request that dress ornament convert can be met.