CN106666883B - A kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt - Google Patents

A kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106666883B
CN106666883B CN201611251918.9A CN201611251918A CN106666883B CN 106666883 B CN106666883 B CN 106666883B CN 201611251918 A CN201611251918 A CN 201611251918A CN 106666883 B CN106666883 B CN 106666883B
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China
Prior art keywords
sleeve
line
tuck
cloth
points
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201611251918.9A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN106666883A (en
Inventor
黄红云
张江平
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Ningbo Taiping Fashion Costume Creative Research Institute Co Ltd
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Ningbo Taiping Fashion Costume Creative Research Institute Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201611251918.9A priority Critical patent/CN106666883B/en
Publication of CN106666883A publication Critical patent/CN106666883A/en
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Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses the preparation method applied to the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt, the step of mainly including constriction shoulder breadth, the step of draw new armhole curve, the step of increase the step of sleeve mountain determines to draw tuck block the step of tuck number of blocks and size, more than new cap arc line the step of obtain new cap arc line, between new and old armhole curve, suture sleeve and clothing body and turn down suture tuck.Its technical scheme can obtain proper hubble-bubble sleeve attractive in appearance after ready-made clothes, due to shoulder breadth to have been carried out to appropriate constriction, and shoulder breadth constriction amount is applied in the tuck on sleeve mountain, sleeve mountain appropriate swell has been subjected to simultaneously, so that it is more aesthetically pleasing after ready-made clothes, comfortable and personal, solve the problem of direct shoulder line for increasing tuck making hubble-bubble sleeve generation is not attractive in appearance enough in the prior art.

Description

A kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing mask-making technology technical field, more particularly to a kind of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt Preparation method.
Background technology
Hubble-bubble sleeve refers to takes out gathering and the fluffy sleeve type in bubble shape at sleeve mountain, is imbued with the local sample of women's dress of womanlike feature The sleeve loosely heaved at formula, sleeve mountain.Common one kind for copying pin shoulder fashionable dress sleeve, be characterized in sleeve mountain to steep upwards must, There is more or less close or dilute pleat at the place of sewing up.During common hubble-bubble sleeve is tailored, mainly pass through the armhole line of clothing body Mutually sutured with the cap arc line of coat-sleeve, be further added by garment piece and be sewn into the step on sleeve mountain to form hubble-bubble sleeve after ready-made clothes. But it is such tailor under mode, ready-made clothes back porch line position and unsightly also visually gives people a kind of shoulder breadth with shirt shape not Match sensation.
The content of the invention
For the above-mentioned problems in the prior art, now provide it is a kind of be intended to it is attractive in appearance, comfortable and personal after ready-made clothes should The preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt, solves the shoulder line that directly increase tuck making hubble-bubble sleeve is produced in the prior art Not attractive in appearance enough the problem of.
Concrete technical scheme is as follows:
A kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt, shirt includes the clothing body pieces of cloth and coat-sleeve cloth of phase split Piece, and clothing body pieces of cloth and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth phase mosaic are provided with multiple tucks, preparation method comprises the following steps:
Step one, being tailored out according to default design parameter in the shoulder part of clothing body version, clothing body version has former armhole arc Line c, shoulder line j, and the end points of original armhole curve c both sides is S points and T points, shoulder line j and original armhole curve c intersects at M points, shoulder line j For a line segment and shoulder line j length be clothing body pieces of cloth shoulder breadth;
Step 2, the sleeve mountain part of coat-sleeve version is tailored out according to default design parameter, and formed and former armhole curve c phases The former cap arc line e matched somebody with somebody, and the end points of original cap arc line e both sides is R points and Q points, is matched in being drawn on sleeve mountain part with shoulder line j Straight line k, straight line k and original cap arc line e intersect at O points;
Step 3, reduction shoulder line j length, and reduction is a default length L1, and in two end points S points and T points Between draw a smoother new armhole curve d, new armhole curve d and shoulder line j and intersect at N points, line segment MN length, which is equal to, to be grown Spend L1;
Step 4, drawn between two end points R points and Q points one it is smoother and match what is coincide with new armhole curve d New cap arc line f, straight line k and new cap arc line f intersects at P points, and line segment OP length is a default length L2;
Lived as first in step 5, the region that former armhole curve c, new armhole curve b between S points and T points are encircled into Pleat plate, is several tuck blocks by the first tuck Plate division;
Step 6, additionally cuts out whole tuck blocks, and by each tuck block by the match-place that puts in order in newly sleeve mountain arc On line f, the tuck block being located on sleeve mountain part is constituted;Or,
Drawn out on new cap arc line f by putting in order and the corresponding work of each tuck block matching in the first tuck plate Pleat block;
Also, the edge extended line of adjacent tuck block is intersected on former cap arc line e;
Step 7, clothing body pieces of cloth, and the arc lower profile of the shoulder part of clothing body pieces of cloth are tailored out with clothing body version for masterplate The contour line on the basis of new armhole curve d, coat-sleeve pieces of cloth, and the sleeve mountain of the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) are tailored with coat-sleeve version for masterplate Partial upper profile will form new cap arc line on the basis of the outer ledge line of each tuck, the region between each tuck block Form tuck;
The contour line corresponding with new armhole curve d on step 8, split clothing body pieces of cloth and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth, and clothing body pieces of cloth Match with contour line corresponding with new cap arc line f on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth and coincide, by each tuck on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth away from sleeve The one of mountain is laterally away from the direction turnover of shoulder, and is seamed on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth, and the side of each tuck is seamed into coat-sleeve cloth On piece, to form hubble-bubble sleeve.
It is further preferred that the quantity of tuck block is eight.
It is further preferred that length L1 size is 1cm to 1.5cm.
It is further preferred that the 4th tuck block and the 5th adjacent lateral edges of tuck block overlap, straight line k and The upper edge of four tuck blocks intersects at H points, and line segment HP length is equal to length L1.
It is further preferred that length L2 size is 1cm to 1.5cm.
It is further preferred that length L1 size and length L2's is equal in magnitude.
It is further preferred that former cap arc line e length is more than former armhole curve c length, new cap arc line f length More than new armhole curve d length.
It is further preferred that the side on the remote sleeve mountain of each tuck is sutured on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth and original sleeve on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth On arc line position corresponding mountain camber line e.
The beneficial effect of above-mentioned technical proposal is:
By the preparation method of the above-mentioned hubble-bubble sleeve being applied on shirt, the knot of proper hubble-bubble sleeve attractive in appearance can obtain Structure, is applied in the tuck on sleeve mountain due to shoulder breadth to have been carried out to appropriate constriction, and by shoulder breadth constriction amount, while sleeve mountain is entered Appropriate swell is gone so that more aesthetically pleasing after ready-made clothes, comfortable and personal, shoulder breadth matches with shirt shape, solves in the prior art The problem of shoulder line that directly increase tuck making hubble-bubble sleeve is produced is not attractive in appearance enough.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the present invention applied to the shoulder part of clothing body version in the embodiment of the preparation method of the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Structural representation;
Fig. 2 is the present invention applied to the sleeve mountain part of coat-sleeve version in the embodiment of the preparation method of the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Structural representation;
The sleeve mountain part that Fig. 3 implements to obtain for the present invention applied to the embodiment of the preparation method of the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Structural plan figure;
The sleeve portions that Fig. 4 implements to obtain for the present invention applied to the embodiment of the preparation method of the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Dimensional structure diagram.
Embodiment
In order that the technical means, the inventive features, the objects and the advantages of the present invention are easy to understand, it is real below The tailoring method for applying the Western-style clothes coat-sleeve that example combination 1 to 4 couple of present invention of accompanying drawing is provided is specifically addressed.
Embodiment one,
Refering to Fig. 1, for the shoulder part of clothing body version in the embodiment of the preparation method applied to the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Structural representation, with reference to Fig. 2, for the sleeve mountain part of coat-sleeve version in the embodiment of the preparation method applied to the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Structural representation, and Fig. 3 implements obtained sleeve mountain portion for the embodiment of the preparation method applied to the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt The structural plan figure divided, and Fig. 4, obtained coat-sleeve is implemented for the embodiment of the preparation method applied to the hubble-bubble sleeve on shirt Partial dimensional structure diagram.And be the technical characteristic of the clear display present invention, part-structure is omitted and shown, and is defined as schemed 1st, the paper direction shown in Fig. 2 is respectively positive direction, then what is illustrated is direction up and down mentioned below up and down, The structural representation of unilateral coat-sleeve is only shown in addition, its symmetrical opposite side coat-sleeve can be obtained in an identical manner in figure, therefore not Repeated, also omit and show, and the ray shown in figure is vertical line y, represents the vertical line direction in lithography process, is cutting cloth During piece then as cloth yarn to foundation, specifically cloth yarn to warp direction be parallel to each other with vertical line y, so as to obtain more Comfortable and attractive in appearance pieces of cloth.
Shown in as shown in Figure 1 to Figure 4, in the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied on shirt that the present invention is provided, shirt bag The clothing body pieces of cloth 40 and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 of phase split are included, and are provided with clothing body pieces of cloth 40 and the phase mosaic of coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 multiple Tuck 60, specifically includes following steps:
Step one, the shoulder part 10 of clothing body version is tailored out according to default design parameter, and clothing body version includes phase split Front cut pieces version and rear garment piece version, and form on shoulder part 10 former armhole curve c, relative with original armhole curve c be located at Camber line g of the opposite side of shoulder part 10 to splice collar, shoulder line j is constituted in front cut pieces version and rear garment piece version phase mosaic, and The end points of former armhole curve c both sides is S points and T points, and shoulder line j and original armhole curve c intersects at M points, and shoulder line j is a line segment and shoulder Line j length is the shoulder breadth of clothing body pieces of cloth 40;
It is often by the way of, to design shoulder width, splice clothing on the market that the tailoring method of specific clothing body version, which then use, The camber line g length and radian of neck, garment piece length parameter etc. are cut again can obtain, and be existing means, therefore be not added with here To repeat, but the reasons why it can not be implemented should not be turned into.
Step 2, the sleeve mountain part 20 of coat-sleeve version is tailored out according to default design parameter, and formed and former armhole curve c The former cap arc line e of matching, and the end points of original cap arc line e both sides is R points and Q points, is drawn and shoulder line j on sleeve mountain part 20 The straight line k of matching, straight line k and original cap arc line e intersect at O points;Specific coat-sleeve version then with clothing body version to tailor mode identical, Realized, therefore do not repeated by design parameter and existing means.
Step 3, reduction shoulder line j length reduce shoulder breadth, and reduction is a default length L1, concrete numerical value by Design phase determine, and between two end points S points and T points draw a smoother new armhole curve d, new armhole curve d with Shoulder line j intersects at N points, and line segment MN length is equal to length L1;
Step 4, drawn between two end points R points and Q points one it is smoother and match what is coincide with new armhole curve d New cap arc line f, straight line k and new cap arc line f intersects at P points, and line segment OP length is a default length L2;
Lived as first in step 5, the region that former armhole curve c, new armhole curve b between S points and T points are encircled into Pleat plate, is several pieces tuck block 70 by the first tuck Plate division, that is, determines to use several pleats, the former sleeve between R points and Q points Mountain camber line e, new cap arc line f are encircled into the second tuck plate corresponding with the first tuck plate;
Step 6, additionally cuts out whole tuck blocks 70, and each tuck block 70 is tucked inside the sleeve by the match-place that puts in order in new On the camber line f of mountain, the tuck being located on sleeve mountain part 20 is constituted;Or, drawn out on new cap arc line f by putting in order and the Each tuck block 70 matches corresponding tuck block 30 in one tuck plate;Also, the lateral edges extended line phase of adjacent tuck block 30 Meet on former cap arc line e;
Step 7, clothing body pieces of cloth 40, and the lower arc of the shoulder part 10 of clothing body pieces of cloth 40 are tailored out with clothing body version for masterplate Shape profile contour line on the basis of new armhole curve d, coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50, and the sleeve of clothing body pieces of cloth 40 are tailored with coat-sleeve version for masterplate The upper profile of mountain part 20 contour line on the basis of the edge line of new cap arc line f and each tuck block;
It is corresponding with new armhole curve d on step 8, split clothing body pieces of cloth 40 and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50, and clothing body pieces of cloth 40 The contour line corresponding with new cap arc line f, which matches, on contour line and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 coincide, by coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 with tuck The one of the remote sleeve mountain of each tuck 60 at the corresponding position of block 30 is laterally away from the direction turnover of shoulder, i.e., turned-out, It is exactly outside relative to collar mouthful, and is seamed on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50, the side of each tuck 60 is seamed to coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 On, to form hubble-bubble sleeve.
By above-mentioned technical scheme, the structure of proper hubble-bubble sleeve attractive in appearance is can obtain, due to shoulder breadth having been carried out suitably Constriction, and shoulder breadth constriction amount is applied in the tuck 60 tucked inside the sleeve on mountain, while the mountain that will tuck inside the sleeve has carried out appropriate swell so that into More aesthetically pleasing after clothing, comfortable and personal, shoulder breadth matches with shirt shape, solves directly increase tuck in the prior art and makes hubble-bubble sleeve The problem of shoulder line of generation is not attractive in appearance enough.And it is not necessarily completely overlapped mode that above-mentioned matching, which coincide, is deposited each other In the underlapped position in part, it is mode customary in the art, is not repeated here.Above-mentioned smoother finger curved line is to connect Pass through.
In a preferred embodiment, specifically as shown in Figures 1 and 2, the quantity of tuck block 70 is eight, and the Four tuck blocks 70 and the 5th adjacent lateral edges of tuck block 70 overlap, the upside of straight line k and the 4th tuck block 70 Edge intersects at H points, and line segment HP length is equal to L1.Further, former cap arc line e can be corresponded on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 Position eat gesture amount adjust first, second, the 3rd, the 6th, seven, the 8th tuck block 70 correspond to coat-sleeve plate On position in.In a particular application, it is the attractive in appearance of coat-sleeve connection, generally original cap arc line e length is more than former armhole curve c Length, corresponding, new cap arc line f length is more than new armhole curve d length, so as to just be formed in mutual splicing Certain eats gesture amount.
As further preferred embodiment, each pieces of cloth at position corresponding with tuck is remote on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50 The side on sleeve mountain is sutured on arc line position corresponding with former cap arc line e on coat-sleeve pieces of cloth 50.Further, L1 length Spend for 1cm to 1.5cm, L2 length is 1cm to 1.5cm, further, L1 length and L2 equal length.
Embodiment two,
The content and Making programme and above-described embodiment one of the present embodiment are essentially identical, and it the difference is that only, step Five are:
In drafting two is intersected with former armhole curve c, new armhole curve d respectively on shoulder part 10 oblique line a, oblique line b, And the region being encircled into by oblique line a, oblique line b, former armhole curve c, new armhole curve b is lived as the 3rd tuck plate by the 3rd Pleat Plate division is several pieces tuck block 70, that is, determines to use several pleats;Further, oblique line a and oblique line b is on the basis of shoulder line j Line mirror-image arrangement, but it is not limited to this.And oblique line a and oblique line b is really as the both sides final position of tuck, particular location according to Design phase obtains to the parameter of tuck quantity and width.In the oblique line v corresponding with oblique line a of drafting on sleeve portions, in oblique Oblique line u corresponding line b, and be encircled into and the 3rd tuck plate by oblique line u, oblique line v, former cap arc line e, new cap arc line f The 4th corresponding tuck plate;
Step 6 is:
Additionally cut out whole tuck blocks 70, and by each tuck block 70 by the match-place that puts in order in new cap arc line f On, constitute the tuck being located on sleeve mountain part 20;Or, drawn out on new cap arc line f by putting in order and the 3rd tuck Each tuck block 70 matches corresponding tuck block 30 in plate;Also, the edge extended line of adjacent tuck 30 intersects at former sleeve mountain On camber line e;
I.e. in the present embodiment, further reduce can tuck plate scope so that obtain more aesthetically pleasing comfortable after ready-made clothes Personal hubble-bubble sleeve.
Presently preferred embodiments of the present invention is these are only, is merely illustrative for the purpose of the present invention, and it is nonrestrictive.This Professional and technical personnel understands, can carry out many changes to it in the spirit and scope that the claims in the present invention are limited, and changes, It is even equivalent, but fall within protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. a kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt, shirt includes the clothing body pieces of cloth (40) and coat-sleeve cloth of phase split Piece (50), and the clothing body pieces of cloth (40) and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) phase mosaic are provided with multiple tucks (60), its feature exists In the preparation method comprises the following steps:
Step one, tailored out on the shoulder part (10) of clothing body version, the shoulder part (10) and had according to default design parameter There are former armhole curve c, shoulder line j, and the end points of the former armhole curve c both sides is S points and T points, the shoulder line j tucks inside the sleeve with the original Gallery camber line c intersects at M points, and the shoulder line j is a line segment and length is the shoulder breadth of the clothing body pieces of cloth (40);
Step 2, the sleeve mountain part (20) of coat-sleeve version is tailored out according to default design parameter, and is formed with and the former armhole The former cap arc line e that camber line c matches, and the end points of the former cap arc line e both sides is R points and Q points, in sleeve mountain part (20) the straight line k, the straight line k matched with the shoulder line j is drawn on and intersects at O points with the former cap arc line e;
Step 3, reduces the length of the shoulder line j, and reduction is a default length L1, and in two end points S points and T points Between draw a smoother new armhole curve d, the new armhole curve d and the shoulder line j intersect at N points, line segment MN length Size of the degree equal to the length L1;
Step 4, drawn between two end points R points and Q points one it is smoother and match what is coincide with the new armhole curve d New cap arc line f, the straight line k and new cap arc line f intersects at P points, and line segment OP length is a default length L2;
Lived as first in step 5, the region that the former armhole curve c, new armhole curve b between S points and T points are encircled into Pleat plate, is several tuck blocks (70) by the first tuck Plate division;
Step 6, additionally cuts out whole tuck blocks (70), and by each tuck block (70) by the spelling that puts in order For on the new cap arc line f, constituting the tuck block (30) being located on sleeve mountain part (20);Or,
Draw out and match with each tuck block (70) in the first tuck plate by putting in order on the new cap arc line f Corresponding tuck block (30);
Also, the lateral edges extended line of the adjacent tuck block (30) is intersected on the former cap arc line e;
Step 7, the clothing body pieces of cloth (40), and the shoulder of the clothing body pieces of cloth (40) are tailored out with clothing body version for masterplate Partial arc lower profile contour line on the basis of the new armhole curve d;Coat-sleeve pieces of cloth are tailored for masterplate with coat-sleeve version , and the upper profile of the sleeve mountain part of the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) will form new on the basis of the outer ledge line of each tuck (50) Region between cap arc line, each tuck block forms tuck;
With the new sleeve on step 8, clothing body pieces of cloth (40) described in split and coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50), and the clothing body pieces of cloth (40) The contour line corresponding with the new cap arc line f matches on contour line corresponding gallery camber line d and the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) It coincide, the direction that one of each tuck (60) on the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) away from sleeve mountain is laterally away from into shoulder is turned down, and It is seamed on the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50), then the side of each tuck (60) is seamed on the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50), To form hubble-bubble sleeve.
2. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 1 on shirt, it is characterised in that the tuck block (70) quantity is eight.
3. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 1 on shirt, it is characterised in that the length L1's Size is 1cm to 1.5cm.
4. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 2 on shirt, it is characterised in that the 4th work Pleat block (30) and the 5th adjacent lateral edges of the tuck block (30) overlap, straight line k and the 4th tuck The upper edge of block (30) intersects at H points, and line segment HP length is equal to the size of the length L1.
5. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 3 on shirt, it is characterised in that the length L2's Size is 1cm to 1.5cm.
6. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 5 on shirt, it is characterised in that the length L1's Size is equal in magnitude with the length L2's.
7. the preparation method of the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied on shirt as described in claim 4 or 6, it is characterised in that the former sleeve Mountain camber line e length is more than the length of the former armhole curve c, and the length of the new cap arc line f is more than the new armhole arc Line d length.
8. the preparation method for the hubble-bubble sleeve being applied to as claimed in claim 7 on shirt, it is characterised in that the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) side on the remote sleeve mountain of each tuck (60) is sutured on the coat-sleeve pieces of cloth (50) and the former sleeve mountain arc on On arc line position corresponding line e.
CN201611251918.9A 2016-12-30 2016-12-30 A kind of preparation method of hubble-bubble sleeve applied on shirt Expired - Fee Related CN106666883B (en)

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CN112257130A (en) * 2020-09-28 2021-01-22 深圳市衣定时代科技有限公司 Sleeve capacity adjustment device and electronic equipment

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