CN105661722B - A kind of tailoring method of Huian crock - Google Patents
A kind of tailoring method of Huian crock Download PDFInfo
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- CN105661722B CN105661722B CN201511027798.XA CN201511027798A CN105661722B CN 105661722 B CN105661722 B CN 105661722B CN 201511027798 A CN201511027798 A CN 201511027798A CN 105661722 B CN105661722 B CN 105661722B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of tailoring method of Huian crock, the Huian crock includes clothing body, connects sleeve and collar, and clothing body includes left front part, right anterior plate, left back, the oblique flap of right rear panel and the right side, and the making step of the Huian crock includes successively：Step A：Make model；Step B：Pieces of cloth are cut according to model；Step C：Pieces of cloth are sewn into clothing body；Step D：Sewing connects sleeve and collar in clothing body.Using technical scheme, the structure design of Huian crock is carried out using prototype template, modern Huian female is solved well due to wearing modeling rounding under garment, the problem of front of clothes lifting that chest three-dimensional contouring is strengthened and produced shortens, the height of underarm point can be controlled using this method, the motor function demand of arm when human body is worn is met, while allowing the Huian crock to keep traditional profile and graceful bearing, strengthens the fit aesthetic property and sporting functionality of dressing.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to garment industry, and in particular to a kind of tailoring method of Huian crock.
Background technology
Huian lady dress refers to live in the Chong Wu on Hui'an County east seashore, mountain rosy clouds, small Zuo and the Han nationality woman in 4, net peak town
Lady dress.Over the past thousands of years, due to unique marine environment life and work, the Huian lady dress of unique Regional mark is formed.Its
Folklore landscape and ocean ergonomic features that Huian schoolgirl deposits region are incorporated, it is special with strong national characteristic and place
Color, is to integrate special Han nationality's dress ornament form that multiculture is mutually blended, it is non-to be put into first national level in 2006
Matter input protects project.The Huian crock studied herein, after referring to 1950s, on " sew and make shirt " basis
Sew as upper removal patch and do technique, clothing body shortens, body of tucking inside the sleeve becomes narrow, is referred to as the daily jacket money of Huian female of " saving shirt "
Formula.Its main modeling characteristic：The right front of a garment of Chinese formula digs the flap, and bust is tight, clothing length and navel；The bottom is loose, both sides are made a slit or vent, due to two latasutures
Warp height, forms the middle curve bottom grown；Front and rear middle tear, company is tucked inside the sleeve, connects sleeve structure, and cuff is slightly tightened up.Although working as land
A variety of incentives are put into effect at mansion, the women for even keeping Huian dress issues dress ornament allowance, but less than 35 years old now works as
People from ground hardly wears traditional clothes, and only part old man also keeps the dress of traditional Huian lady dress.To find out its cause, mainly
Huian crock can not meet young Huian woman and wear esthetic requirement and motor function demand.The Huian female of younger generation is
In the modern society's life for incorporating high speed development, influenceed by modern dressing culture, generally worn brassiere, and conventional method is tailored
Huian crock do not account for the convex presence of female chest.
For a long time, mainly continue to use the traditional Chinese of folks of china and take plane cutting method and tailor Huian crock.During cutting,
It is first that dress material is folding into two, it is then folding into two again, the unnecessary dress material of the lower and upper loin of armpit is cut off.Garment piece after tailoring is by full wafer
Dress material is constituted, and except collar is three-dimensional, remaining is all at grade；There is no a shoulder seam, front and rear garment piece is connected, coat-sleeve is from clothing
Connected in body；Because dress material is not wide enough, is then added at the two ends of left and right coat-sleeve and connect sleeve.Front and rear clothing length is the same, does not account for women
Attacking Midfielder's section is long caused by chest is convex is more than the problem of low back section is long.Jacket lacks chest province, and bottom position is bigger, is formed " A fonts "
Planar structure, the Huian woman's bodily form of the profile of this plane just with " pressure chest dash forward abdomen " epoch matches.In " life is not shown up "
Age, Huian female with chest it is straight for U.S., wear it is a kind of in the middle of with intensive clasp fastening split flap tight underwear, to reach
The purpose of " beam chest "[3].Until the popularization of modern brassiere underwear, just gradually replace beam rounding under garment.
And receive the modern Huian female of modern civilization education, at home and abroad under the influence of fashion dress culture, with older generation
Huian woman's orientation of aesthetics is far from each other：It is U.S. no longer with " flat chest ", wearing brassiere increases breastheight, chest to correct the bodily form
Stereoeffect enhancing.The notable difference of " convex chest " build and " flat chest " build in the past of modern Huian female wearing brassiere, is wearing
When the jacket that traditional method of cutting out makes, just occur that front cut pieces lifting, preceding clothing length are shorter than the problem of rear clothing is long.
In consideration of it, the present inventor carries out in-depth study to above mentioned problem, there is this case generation then.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of sanction for the Huian crock that can solve the problem that the convex caused preceding clothing length of chest is not enough
Method processed.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is using such technical scheme：
A kind of tailoring method of Huian crock, the Huian crock includes clothing body, connects sleeve and collar, and clothing body includes a left side
Anter, right anterior plate, left back, right rear panel and the right tiltedly flap, the making step of the Huian crock include successively：
Step A：Make model；
Step B：Pieces of cloth are cut according to model；
Step C：Pieces of cloth are sewn into clothing body；
Step D：Sewing connects sleeve and collar in clothing body；
The long selection prototype template of net bust and the back of the body according to human body, transition template is made using prototype template in step,
Transition template is recycled to make model, prototype template includes the first prototype template of correspondence left front part, right anterior plate and the right tiltedly flap
With left back of correspondence and the second prototype template of right rear panel, transition template includes the First Transition template of the first prototype template of correspondence
With the second transition template of the second prototype template of correspondence, model includes left front part model, right anterior plate model, left back model, the right side
Rear panel model and right tiltedly flap model；
First prototype template is by correspondingly the first neck line of neck, the first shoulder line of correspondence shoulders of human body, correspondence human body
First armpit line of armpit, the first waist nodel line of correspondence human body waist, the first left vertical line for connecting the first waist nodel line and the first armpit line
And the first right vertical line of connection the first neck line and the first waist nodel line is surrounded, the first chest is drawn on the first armpit line and saves line M and first
Chest saves line N, and the first chest saves line M and the first chest saves line N and extends towards the first right vertical line and be crossed to form first province's stop, with first
It is that basic point draws the first vertical line to the first waist nodel line to save stop, the first vertical line to first province's stop is sheared, using first province's stop as base
Point, folds the first prototype template and make it that the first chest saves line M and the first chest saves line N and coincides together to form First Transition template, join
Left front part model, right anterior plate model and right tiltedly flap model are cut according to First Transition template；
Second prototype template is by correspondingly the second neck line of neck, the second shoulder line of correspondence shoulders of human body and correspondence people
Hang down on second right side of the second armpit line of body armpit, correspondingly the second waist nodel line of human body waist, the second waist nodel line of connection and the second armpit line
Line and connect the second neck line and the second waist nodel line the second left vertical line surround, on the second shoulder line provided with the second shoulder save line X with
Second shoulder saves line Y, and the second shoulder saves line X and the second shoulder saves line Y and extends towards the second waist nodel line and be crossed to form second province's stop, with
Second province's stop is that basic point draws the second vertical line to the second waist nodel line, the second vertical line to second province's stop is sheared, with second province's stop
For basic point, fold the second prototype template and make it that the second shoulder saves line X and the second shoulder saves line Y and coincides together to form the second stage die
Plate, with reference to the second transition template crop left rear panel model and right rear panel model；
In stepb, it is left front part model and left back model is stitched together as with reference to the first pieces of cloth are cut, by the right side
Anter model and right rear panel model are stitched together as with reference to the second pieces of cloth are cut, and the 3rd cloth is cut with reference to right tiltedly flap model
Piece, the first pieces of cloth and the second pieces of cloth correspondence are sewed together and be sewed together corresponding with the first pieces of cloth of the 3rd pieces of cloth is formed
Clothing body, left front part, right anterior plate and the right tiltedly flap constitute front of clothes, and left back and right rear panel constitute back coat, after front of clothes is longer than
Clothing body.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, the clothing body is in the right position shape tiltedly between the flap and the right rear panel
Into the first jag portion, the clothing body in the left front part and it is described left back between position form the second jag portion.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, the side of the right tiltedly flap is connected on the left front part, and opposite side is
Free side, is provided with connector between free side and the right anterior plate.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, the connector is buttonhole and the button that can be hung on buttonhole grain, buttonhole
It is arranged on the right anterior plate, button grain is arranged on the right tiltedly flap.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, after button grain is buckled to the buttonhole, the right anterior plate with it is described
Right tiltedly flap formation coincidence part, the coincidence part is blocked by the right tiltedly flap.
Using technical scheme, the structure design of Huian crock is carried out using prototype template, is solved well
Modern Huian female is due to wearing modeling rounding under garment, and the problem of front of clothes lifting that chest three-dimensional contouring is strengthened and produced shortens is adopted
The height of underarm point can be controlled with this method, the motor function demand of arm when human body is worn is met, allows Huian crock to protect
While holding traditional profile and graceful bearing, strengthen the fit aesthetic property and sporting functionality of dressing, to be adapted to current Huian woman shape
Body curve and dressing orientation of aesthetics, are conducive to the succession of the dress culture.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the positive structure schematic of Huian crock in the present invention；
Fig. 2 is the structure schematic diagram of Huian crock in the present invention；
Fig. 3 (a) is the structural representation of the first prototype template in the present invention；
Fig. 3 (b) is the structural representation of First Transition template in the present invention；
Fig. 4 (a) is the structural representation of the second prototype template in the present invention；
Fig. 4 (b) is the structural representation of the second transition template in the present invention；
Structure when Fig. 5 is in same horizontal line for First Transition template in the present invention with the second transition template waist nodel line is shown
It is intended to；
Structure when Fig. 6 is in same horizontal line for First Transition template in the present invention with the second transition template BL BUST LINE is shown
It is intended to；
Fig. 7 is the structural representation of left front part in the present invention；
Fig. 8 is the structural representation of the right tiltedly flap in the present invention；
Fig. 9 is left front part model, right anterior plate model, left back model and the structure of right rear panel model splicing in the present invention
Schematic diagram；
In figure：
11- left front part 12- right anterior plates
Right tiltedly left back of the flap 14- of 13-
Right the first jags of the rear panel 16- portions of 15-
The second jags of 17- portion 20- connects sleeve
30- collar 40- connectors
41- buttonholes 42- detains grain
50- the first prototype template 51- the first neck lines
52- the first shoulder line 53- the first armpit lines
The chests of 54- first save the first chests of line M 55- and save line N
56- the first waist nodel lines the first left vertical lines of 57-
Right the first provinces of the vertical line 59- stops of 58- first
501- the first vertical line the first BL BUST LINEs of 502-
503- lengthening part 500- First Transition templates
60- the second prototype template 61- the second neck lines
62- the second shoulder line 63- the second armpit lines
The shoulders of 64- second save the second shoulders of line X 65- and save line Y
66- the second waist nodel lines the second right vertical lines of 67-
Left the second provinces of the vertical line 69- stops of 68- second
601- the second vertical line the second transition templates of 600-
The BL BUST LINEs of 602- second
Embodiment
In order to which technical scheme is explained further, it is described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Referring to figs. 1 to Fig. 9, description of the invention for convenience, after being worn using Huian crock the orientation of correspondence left hand as
A left side, correspondence the right hand orientation for the right side, a kind of tailoring method of Huian crock, the Huian crock include clothing body, connect sleeve 20 with
And collar 30, clothing body includes left front part 11, right anterior plate 12, left back 14, right rear panel 15 and the right tiltedly flap 13, the Huian crock
Making step include successively：
Step A：Model is made, model selects cardboard in embodiment, its convenient cutting；
Step B：Pieces of cloth are cut according to model；
Step C：Pieces of cloth are sewn into clothing body；
Step D：Sewing connects sleeve 20 and collar 30 in clothing body；
The long selection prototype template of net bust and the back of the body according to human body, transition template is made using prototype template in step,
Transition template is recycled to make model, prototype template first including correspondence left front part 11, right anterior plate 12 and the right tiltedly flap 13 is former
Second prototype template 60 of pattern plate 50 and correspondence left back 14 and right rear panel 15, transition template includes the first prototype template of correspondence
Second transition template 600 of the second prototype template 60 of 50 First Transition template 500 and correspondence, model include left front part model,
Right anterior plate model, left back model, the oblique flap model of right rear panel model and the right side；
First prototype template 50 is by the first neck line 51 of correspondence neck, the first shoulder line 52, right of correspondence shoulders of human body
Answer the first armpit line 53, the first waist nodel line 56 of correspondence human body waist, the first waist nodel line 56 of connection and the first armpit line of human body armpit
53 the first left vertical line 57 and the first right vertical line 58 of connection the first neck line 52 and the first waist nodel line 56 are surrounded, the first left vertical line
57 one end is connected with one end of the first armpit line 53, and the other end is vertically connected on the first waist nodel line 56, the first right vertical line 57
One end is connected with one end of the first neck line 51, and the other end is vertically connected on the upper of the first waist nodel line.Is drawn on the first armpit line 53
One chest saves line M54 and the first chest saves line N55, and the first chest saves line M54 and the first chest saves line N55 and extended simultaneously towards the first right vertical line 58
First province's stop 59 is crossed to form, is that basic point draws the first vertical line 501, shearing first to the first waist nodel line 56 with first province's stop 59
The province of vertical line 501 to the first stop 59, is basic point with first province's stop 59, folds the first prototype template 50 and make it that the first chest saves line
M54 and the first chest save line N55 and coincide together to form First Transition template 500, and left front part is cut with reference to First Transition template 500
Model, right anterior plate model and right tiltedly flap model；
Second prototype template 60 by correspondence neck the second neck line 61, correspondence shoulders of human body the second shoulder line 62 and
The second armpit line 63, the second waist nodel line 66 of correspondence human body waist, the second waist nodel line 66 of connection and the second armpit of correspondence human body armpit
Second right vertical line 67 of line 63 and the second left vertical line 68 of connection the second neck line 61 and the second waist nodel line 66 are surrounded, and second is left vertical
One end of line 68 is connected with one end of the second neck line 61, and the other end is vertical with the second waist nodel line 66 to be connected, the second right vertical line 67
One end is connected with one end of the second armpit line 63, and the other end is vertical with the second waist nodel line 66 to be connected, provided with the on the second shoulder line 62
Two shoulders save line X64 and the second shoulder saves line Y65, and the second shoulder saves line X64 and the second shoulder saves line Y65 and extended simultaneously towards the second waist nodel line 66
Second province's stop 69 is crossed to form, is that basic point draws the second vertical line 601, shearing second to the second waist nodel line 66 with second province's stop 69
The province of vertical line 601 to the second stop 69, is basic point with second province's stop 69, folds the second prototype template 60 and make it that the second shoulder saves line
X64 and the second shoulder save line Y65 and coincide together to form the second transition template 600, with reference to the crop left rear panel of the second transition template 600
Model and right rear panel model；
In stepb, left front part model and left back model is stitched together as with reference to the first pieces of cloth are cut, this
The shape of one pieces of cloth is identical with the shape deployed after left front part 11 and left back 14 splits, by right anterior plate model and right rear panel model
Stitched together to cut the second pieces of cloth as reference, the shape of this second pieces of cloth after right anterior plate 12 and the split of right rear panel 15 with deploying
Shape it is identical, cut the 3rd pieces of cloth with reference to right tiltedly flap model, the shape of the 3rd pieces of cloth is identical with the shape of the right oblique flap 13.By
One pieces of cloth and the second pieces of cloth correspondence are sewed together and be sewed together corresponding with the first pieces of cloth of the 3rd pieces of cloth are formed into clothing body, left
Anter 11, right anterior plate 12 and the right tiltedly flap 13 constitute front of clothes, and left back 14 and right rear panel 15 constitute back coat, and front of clothes is longer than
Back coat, its length difference is designed according to different builds so that after Huian crock is worn on a human body, and makes up newborn chest protuberance
Make the amount that front of clothes warps, it is ensured that the hipline for wearing back coat and back coat is flushed.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, the clothing body is in the right position tiltedly between the flap 13 and the right rear panel 15
Put to form the first jag portion 16, the clothing body in the left front part 11 and it is described left back 14 between position formed the second jag
Portion 17.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, the side of the right tiltedly flap 13 is connected on the left front part 11, another
Side is free side, and connector 40 is provided between free side and the right anterior plate.It is described as a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention
Connector 40 is buttonhole 41 and the button that can be hung on buttonhole 41 grain 42, and buttonhole 41 is arranged on the right anterior plate 12, detains grain 42
It is arranged on the right tiltedly flap 13.In embodiment, connector is buckled using disk.
As a kind of preferred embodiment of the present invention, after the button grain 42 is buckled to the buttonhole 41, the right anterior plate 12
With the right tiltedly flap 13 formation coincidence part, the coincidence part is blocked by the right tiltedly flap 13.
In the present invention, the first prototype template 50 and the second prototype template 60 can carry out phase according to net bust and the back of the body are long
The size answered is set.In order to more quickly be designed, the first prototype template 50 and the second prototype template 60 can be adopted directly
Eighth generation three-dimensional cutting is used, eighth generation three-dimensional cutting is with the mark of adult (18~24 years old)
Screened centered on the quasi- bodily form (bust 80~89), be the bodily form prototype for meeting human body natural's form.Japanese
New Culture prototype has to design the main cause of Huian crock：One is Chinese and Japanese is both Asian, aspectual character
Similar, new prototype meets the aspectual character of Chinese very much using the three-dimensional composition mode for being front and rear box；Two be Japanese cultural type
Women dress prototype experienced eight modifications, and the change of human somatotype and world's fashionable dress trend is all complied with modification every time.Quality of life
The factor such as improving causes the increase of female bra, and modern young man's aesthetic standards change, modern wears correction underwear and increases
Plus chest three-dimensional contouring, greatly, preceding clothing length increases the quantitative change of chest province.Increasing of the eighth generation prototype exactly for modern young woman's dressing bust
Plus, the prototype template that chest saves the big bodily form of change and designed.With the increase of Human Height and bust, prototype chest dart also accordingly increases
Plus.New prototype can use for reference the template that Huian jacket structure model is designed as different heights, the women of different building shape.Three be new
In the same horizontal line, chest is saved and is arranged at armhole the waistline of the front and rear prototype of prototype, can be needed by style anter chest
Save and the shoulder of rear panel saves and is transferred to front and rear panel (i.e. front of clothes and back coat, similarly hereinafter) bottom, form identical Huian crock " tight chest
Enclose, the wide bottom " structure profile.
In order to which the design of the present invention is described in more detail, using the new prototype of eighth generation Japan as template, it is exemplified below：
With 160/84A, net bust 84cm, the new prototype of eighth generation Japan for carrying on the back long 38cm is template, designs Huian crock.
Huian crock is to belong to the A shape profiles that loudspeaker amount is added in clothing body for Mechanical Builds.Carried out using Japanese new prototype
Lithographic structure, should try one's best the design for being shifted using prototype provincial highway and carrying out A shape profiles.In Fig. 3 (a), Fig. 3 (b), Fig. 4 (a) and figure
In 4 (b), line M54 is saved by the first chest and the first chest saves line N55 folding, the shearing of the first vertical line 501, is saved by the second shoulder
Line X64 and the second shoulder save line Y65 folding, the shearing of the second vertical line 601, complete the incision of loudspeaker amount.
Reference picture 4, the first waist nodel line 56 and the second waist nodel line 66 is positioned in the same horizontal line, First Transition template
The high △ in the oxter of 500 to the second transition template 600 (160/84A prototype=2cm).Huian crock is wide without beating the A of chest province
Shape clothes, during using Japanese new prototype structure drawing, First Transition template 500 reduce △ (First Transition template according to
Design needs reduction amount to be adjusted between 1cm~△), as shown in Figure 5 so that shoulder neck point it is equally high (the in figure to BL BUST LINE
One BL BUST LINE 502 and the second BL BUST LINE 602 are conllinear).
The design of finished product bust：The bust of New Culture formula Women dress prototype is placed on the basis of the net bust of human body
12cm, by taking 160/84A as an example, net bust 84cm, new prototype bust 96cm, after provincial highway is folded, front and rear prototype (corresponds to the first mistake
Cross the transition model 600 of model 500 and second, similarly hereinafter) bust increase again, because Huian crock is tight bust, the wide bottom
Moulding, therefore design when, bust should be reduced on prototype foundation.It is each on the BL BUST LINE after provincial highway folding in design
22.5cm, finished product bust 90cm are taken, 6cm is placed equivalent on the basis of net bust, meets the requirement of tight bust.Net bust
The amount of placing can be adjusted between 6cm~8cm as needed.
The design of the deep point of sleeve：In the design, can be by folding the difference of dart size, the height of control prototype underarm point
Degree, meets the motor function demand of arm when human body is worn.Dart folding is small, the reduction of prototype underarm point；Dart rolls over many, prototype oxter
Point is improved.
The design of clothing length：The clothing length of Huian crock is to navel.Navel is the gold point of whole body, preferable human body, be with
Navel is segmentation lower half and the proportionate relationship of the first half, about 8：5.So, the clothing length of Huian crock embodies human body Huang
Golden ratio is beautiful.In actual life, the design of clothing length can be actually needed design according to individual, and young man's is shorter, reveals tripe
Navel, silver-colored trousers chain is covered, near waist nodel line；The clothing length of older is slightly longer.When design structure is charted, first rear panel,
Anter again.Clothing is long afterwards, and 45cm is extended to from rear neck circumference point along CB.Preceding clothing is long, the long line of clothing after extension, in the long line of rear clothing
On the basis of shifted plus provincial highway after before and after prototype oxter difference △, to make up because newborn chest swells the amount that preceding clothing length warps, it is ensured that
Hipline is concordant before and after after dress.
The design of sleeve length：Huian female is that the Chinese takes structure version type, and Chinese clothes replace sleeve length with " selling "." selling " be from human body just
Size from middle amount to palm part.When designing sleeve length, level amount is to cuff 65cm since rear neck circumference point, it is determined as " selling ".By
In rear horizontal open-neck collar=preceding horizontal open-neck collar+0.2cm of new prototype, in order to ensure garment piece company sanction before and after the crock of Huian during cutting, before making
The size of side neck point to the cuff of prototype is the same afterwards, increases the horizontal open-neck collar 0.2cm of anter, improves the wearing comfort of collar.Sleeve
Design continued to use the tradition of Huian crock and connect sleeve structure, cuff mounting lace, fit narrow cuff and wrap up in in the middle part of forearm
Signature design.The design of sleeve position, 6.5cm mounting lace position design and cuff 10cm are met from cuff along sleeve length 29cm
Narrow cuff design maintains the sleeve structure design features of Huian crock.
The design of the bottom：Huian crock sweep degree is bigger than bust degree of enclosing, can be greatly to 20cm or so, the front of clothes bottom
Wide 26cm, the wide 24cm of the back coat bottom, total degree of the enclosing 100cm of the bottom, total degree of enclosing 90cm (the big 22.5cm of front and rear panel bust) of bust, under
Pendulum always degree of enclosing than the total big 10cm of degree of enclosing of bust.Latasuture warp it is very high, typically in 15cm or so, even up to 17cm sometimes.The bottom
Width can be equally big with front and rear panel, can also anter it is wider than rear panel, the bottom is in radian very big camber line moulding.
The design of side seam line, bottom suture of tucking inside the sleeve：The curved shape of side seam line of Huian crock, both sides have seamed 9cm jags, system
When figure front and rear panel must be consistent from length of the latasuture jag stop through oxter camber line to cuff suture, shape.Forward and backward armpit
Following point is motor area, and the design of oxter camber line will meet the functional requirement of upper extremity exercise.Latasuture camber line, oxter camber line
Radian size can be adjusted as needed.
The design of right anterior plate the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right (i.e. right anterior plate 12), the oblique flap of right anterior plate (the i.e. right tiltedly flap):The anter knot of Huian crock
Structure follows traditional right front of a garment structure, and preceding centre matching, anter (front of clothes) is made up of left front part, right anterior plate, the right tiltedly flap, left front part
With right Xie Jinqian centers splicing.On the basis of anter structure chart, turn right picture 10cm horizontal lines, be then connected to from front neck center
Underarm point, and it is linked to be arc shaped in the recessed gesture 2cm in midpoint, so as to complete the design of the oblique flap cut-off rule in right side.The shape of oblique flap cut-off rule
Shape can be changed the data in figure by individual demand, change the moulding of cut-off rule.
The product form of the present invention is not limited to this case diagram and embodiment, and anyone carries out the appropriate of similar thinking to it
Change is modified, and all should be regarded as not departing from the patent category of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of tailoring method of Huian crock, the Huian crock includes clothing body, connects sleeve and collar, clothing body includes left front
Piece, right anterior plate, left back, right rear panel and the right tiltedly flap, the making step of the Huian crock include successively：
Step A：Make model；
Step B：Pieces of cloth are cut according to model；
Step C：Pieces of cloth are sewn into clothing body；
Step D：Sewing connects sleeve and collar in clothing body；
It is characterized in that：
The long selection prototype template of net bust and the back of the body according to human body, transition template, then profit are made using prototype template in step
With transition template construct model, prototype template includes correspondence left front part, right anterior plate and right tiltedly the first prototype template of the flap and right
The second prototype template of left back and right rear panel are answered, transition template includes corresponding to the First Transition template of the first prototype template and right
The second transition template of the second prototype template is answered, model includes left front part model, right anterior plate model, left back model, right rear panel
Model and right tiltedly flap model；
First prototype template is by correspondingly the first neck line of neck, the first shoulder line of correspondence shoulders of human body, correspondence human body armpit
The first armpit line, correspondence human body waist the first waist nodel line, connection the first waist nodel line and the first armpit line the first left vertical line and
The the first right vertical line for connecting the first neck line and the first waist nodel line is surrounded, and the first chest is drawn on the first armpit line and saves line M and the first chest province
Line N, the first chest saves line M and the first chest saves line N and extends towards the first right vertical line and be crossed to form first province's stop, is stopped with the first province
Point draws the first vertical line for basic point to the first waist nodel line, shears the first vertical line to first province's stop, using first province's stop as basic point, folding
Folded first prototype template make it that the first chest saves line M and the first chest saves line N and coincides together to form First Transition template, with reference to first
Transition template cuts left front part model, right anterior plate model and right tiltedly flap model；
Second prototype template is by correspondingly the second neck line of neck, the second shoulder line of correspondence shoulders of human body and correspondence human body armpit
The second armpit line in portion, the second waist nodel line of correspondence human body waist, the second waist nodel line of connection and the second armpit line the second right vertical line with
And the second left vertical line of connection the second neck line and the second waist nodel line is surrounded, and line X and second is saved provided with the second shoulder on the second shoulder line
Shoulder saves line Y, and the second shoulder saves line X and the second shoulder saves line Y and extends towards the second waist nodel line and be crossed to form second province's stop, with second
It is that basic point draws the second vertical line to the second waist nodel line to save stop, the second vertical line to second province's stop is sheared, using second province's stop as base
Point, folds the second prototype template and make it that the second shoulder saves line X and the second shoulder saves line Y and coincides together to form the second transition template, join
According to the second transition template crop left rear panel model and right rear panel model；
In stepb, it is left front part model and left back model is stitched together as with reference to the first pieces of cloth are cut, by right anterior plate
Model and right rear panel model are stitched together as with reference to the second pieces of cloth are cut, and with reference to the right side, tiltedly flap model cuts the 3rd pieces of cloth, will
First pieces of cloth and the second pieces of cloth correspondence are sewed together and be sewed together corresponding with the first pieces of cloth of the 3rd pieces of cloth are formed into clothing body,
Left front part, right anterior plate and the right tiltedly flap constitute front of clothes, and left back and right rear panel constitute back coat, and front of clothes is longer than back coat,
The clothing body forms the first jag portion in the right position tiltedly between the flap and the right rear panel, and the clothing body is in the left front part
The second jag portion is formed with the position between described left back, the side of the right tiltedly flap is connected on the left front part, another
Side is free side, and connector is provided between free side and the right anterior plate.
2. the tailoring method of Huian crock as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that：The connector is buttonhole and can hung
The button grain on buttonhole is located at, buttonhole is arranged on the right anterior plate, button grain is arranged on the right tiltedly flap.
3. the tailoring method of Huian crock as claimed in claim 2, it is characterised in that：The button grain is buckled to the buttonhole
After upper, the right anterior plate is blocked with the right tiltedly flap formation coincidence part, the coincidence part by the right tiltedly flap.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201511027798.XA CN105661722B (en) | 2015-12-31 | 2015-12-31 | A kind of tailoring method of Huian crock |
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| CN105661722B true CN105661722B (en) | 2017-07-11 |
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| CN110771963A (en) * | 2018-07-11 | 2020-02-11 | 李伦 | Hua clothes |
| CN108991643B (en) * | 2018-09-05 | 2020-07-28 | 西京学院 | Oblique-lappet type garment cutting and sewing method |
| CN109907413A (en) * | 2019-04-01 | 2019-06-21 | 唐成杰 | A kind of method of cutting out of clothes and application |
| CN113057391B (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2023-01-24 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
| CN113100511B (en) * | 2021-05-14 | 2023-09-29 | 丛剑 | Chinese dress non-provincial cutting technique |
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| CN201491765U (en) * | 2009-05-14 | 2010-06-02 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | Reference pattern template for women panties |
| CN102068069B (en) * | 2010-11-24 | 2012-10-24 | 宁波玛珂威尔服饰有限公司 | Fabrication method for lapel pockets |
| CN102423160A (en) * | 2011-12-19 | 2012-04-25 | 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 | Processing method for front body seams of men suit |
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