CN109645611A - A kind of ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix - Google Patents
A kind of ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix Download PDFInfo
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- CN109645611A CN109645611A CN201811636227.XA CN201811636227A CN109645611A CN 109645611 A CN109645611 A CN 109645611A CN 201811636227 A CN201811636227 A CN 201811636227A CN 109645611 A CN109645611 A CN 109645611A
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- paper membrane
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix that the present invention relates to a kind of.This method comprises: high-volume according to shrinkage progress laterally, longitudinal by clothes, cutting, suture obtains ready-made clothes；The geometric figure of required paper membrane is designed, is cut, it then follows it moves towards folding of taking advantage of a situation, and obtains by the double-deck paper membrane；Ready-made clothes is folded, and is placed in seamless applying in the double-deck paper membrane, is folded, is tightened, high-temperature shaping is cooling according to the geometry cutting trend of paper membrane.This method is easy to operate, time saving and energy saving, shrinks without washing, and saves machine and cost of labor, with good economic efficiency, and ironing is exempted from environmental protection, adapts to market mass, scale, standardized production.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile fabric process field, in particular to a kind of ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix.
Background technique
In terms of the form of crimped preceding clothes, at present in rag trade common application similar technique, usually according to version type cut out
Shear first carry out after garment piece it is crimped suture ready-made clothes again, such crimped method need to reserve the amount of suture on garment piece, due to garment piece
Crimped rear surface form can generate variation, therefore quite high to suture technical requirements, often expend huge human and material resources and financial resources,
Production cost is caused to increase accordingly.It discloses and a kind of is manually pressed using paper membrane application No. is 2017111389549 patent
The apparel modeling production method of pleat, the crimp shape of various moulding is made with paper membrane, is kept clothes pleat deformationization abundant, but is increased
Suture difficulty, and three-dimensional cambered moulding cannot be crimped.
Summary of the invention
The ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix that technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a kind of, it is existing to overcome
There is the suture difficulty of pleat in technology big and defect that three-dimensional cambered moulding cannot be crimped.
A kind of ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix of the invention, comprising:
(1) clothes high-volume, cut, obtain garment piece according to lateral, longitudinal direction 1:1-1:2 shrinkage, suture, stitched
The ready-made clothes made；
(2) geometric figure of required paper membrane is designed, folding line spacing is set as 1-1.5mm, cutting, it then follows its trend is taken advantage of a situation
It folds, obtains according to certain geometry aligned transfer and the good double-deck paper membrane of retractility；
(3) ready-made clothes sewed in step (1) is folded according to certain rule is repeated multiple times, is placed in step (2)
It is seamless applying in middle bilayer paper membrane, it is folded, is tightened, high-temperature shaping generates clothes according to the geometry cutting trend of paper membrane
Permanent crease skin texture, it is cooling, obtain pleat.
Suture is with quilt machine in the step (1).
Carry out local suture in the step (1) when suture, part suture includes: stitch the sole to the upper collar, at least one of sets in sleeve son.
Cutting is using laser cutting machine in the step (2).
Step (3) the high temperature setting temperature is 120~150 DEG C, and the high-temperature shaping time is 20 minutes.
It carries out folding the different geometric modelings referred to according to paper membrane according to the geometry cutting trend of paper membrane in the step (3)
Trend is folded.
Pleat carries out local suture according to the different designs pattern of style in the step (3).
The part suture includes at least one of nail button, stitch the sole to the upper zipper, stitch the sole to the upper waistband or several.
The present invention first high-volume cuts clothes, then is sutured with quilt machine, by the multiple folding placement paper membrane of ready-made clothes
In it is seamless applying, finally use steam box high-temperature shaping, to obtain permanent fold skin texture.
Application No. is 2017111389549 patents for comparison, and the present invention is crimped using single-piece ready-made clothes, and fold skin texture is integrally imitated
Fruit is good, also saves extra sewing step, time saving and energy saving, easy to carry, is conducive to factory's mass production.
Beneficial effect
(1) operation of the present invention is convenient and efficient, time saving and energy saving, shrinks without washing, and saves machine and cost of labor, has good
Ironing is exempted from good economic benefit, environmental protection, adapts to market mass, scale, standardized production.
(2) compare in conventional method and need to carry out washing collapse step, the present invention is without washing, and process is simpler, high temperature
Sizing keeps clothes draping effect more permanent.
(3) the used ready-made clothes pressed pleat apparel of the present invention has good motility and variability, different human body dynamic, fold
Form is also rich and changeful；The good ductility of stretching of crinkle fabric simultaneously, it is big to make one to wear relaxation exercise amount, is suitable for various bodies
People's dress of type, size, has good gas permeability, comfortable and easy to wear, is convenient for physical activity.
(4) pleat that the present invention is prepared is designed using no provincial highway, by the three-dimensional contouring of fold, modifies human body
Curve realizes the flexible and changeable fit effect without provincial highway.
(5) compared with paper membrane is locally crimped, it is a much progress that ready-made clothes it is integrally crimped, which to be carried out paper membrane, by the present invention, solves original
First think the problem that neck portion cuff cannot be crimped.General clothes, neck portion and cuff are that solid has according to the three-dimensional modeling of human body
The moulding of radian, can not be crimped.The present invention is become three-dimensional neck portion and cuff by the cutting structure of improvement innovation clothes
Plane (as shown in Figure 5).The cambered method of cutting out of general neckline cuff is compared, neckline and cuff are directly changed to by the present invention
The structure of plane, and can equally be bonded the neck portion of people and the moulding of cuff very well using the Space of fold solid.Both it protected
Original clothing function, aesthetic feeling function are held, and the crimped technique requirement of one integral piece can be met, ready-made clothes is subjected to whole pressure with paper membrane
Pleat makes the globality of clothes, uniformity more preferable, kills two birds with one stone, and time saving and energy saving and innovation is practical.
(6) the crimped clothes integrity degree of ready-made clothes of the present invention is good, solves the difficulty of crimped rear garment piece suture, storage side
Just, according to the different designs of paper membrane, variation is abundant, and overall effect is good, easy to carry.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the fold skin texture figure of V-arrangement in embodiment 1.
Fig. 2 is the fold skin texture figure of pleat in embodiment 1.
Fig. 3 is circular fold skin texture figure in embodiment 2.
Fig. 4 is the fold skin texture figure of pleat in embodiment 2.
Fig. 5 is conventional sleeve (a), collar (d) in sleeve (b), conventional collar (c) and embodiment 2 in embodiment 2
Cut figure.
Fig. 6 is the fold skin texture figure of pleat in comparative example 1.
Specific embodiment
Present invention will be further explained below with reference to specific examples.It should be understood that these embodiments are merely to illustrate the present invention
Rather than it limits the scope of the invention.In addition, it should also be understood that, after reading the content taught by the present invention, those skilled in the art
Member can make various changes or modifications the present invention, and such equivalent forms equally fall within the application the appended claims and limited
Range.
Embodiment 1
(1) by clothes according to transverse direction, the shrinkage of longitudinal 1:1.4 is carried out high-volume, and cutting obtains front and back garment piece, according to style
Front and rear panel is sutured with quilt machine, obtains the ready-made clothes sewed by design structure；
(2) the V-arrangement figure of paper membrane needed for computer design is good, every four independent folding lines constitute V word geometry basic unit, folding
Trace longitudinal pitch is set as 1.2mm, is cut with computer laser machine.It follows it and moves towards folding of taking advantage of a situation, obtain according to V-arrangement geometry
The paper membrane of aligned transfer, retractility is good, more general paper membrane, geometry fold skin texture aligned transfer, novel and unique, three-dimensional
Molding sense is prominent；
(3) the lateral longitudinal direction of ready-made clothes that step (1) obtains is folded in half 4 times respectively, is placed in seamless paste in the double-deck paper matrix
It closes, carries out propulsion folding according to the V word trend of paper membrane, wound and tightened with rope；The sizing of steam box high temperature is placed, steam box is adjusted
Temperature is 130 DEG C, and the time is maintained at 20min, so that clothes is generated permanent crease skin texture, obtains after natural cooling with V-arrangement geometry
The pleat of moulding；Compare and need to carry out washing collapse step in conventional method, for such method without washing, process is simpler
Single, high-temperature shaping keeps clothes draping effect more permanent.
Embodiment 2
(1) by clothes according to transverse direction, the shrinkage of longitudinal 1:1.4 is carried out high-volume, and cutting obtains front and back garment piece, according to style
Design structure is sutured front and rear panel with quilt machine, and carries out the part suture of sleeve and collar, obtain having sewed at
Clothing；
(2) the arc of circle line graph of paper membrane needed for computer design is good, every camber line equidistant arrangement, spacing are set as 1.2mm,
It is cut with computer laser machine.It follows its arc and moves towards folding of taking advantage of a situation, obtain the round paper membrane spiraled by whirlpool curve-like,
Retractility is good, more general paper membrane, rounded fold skin texture aligned transfer, novel and unique, and three-dimensional contouring sense is prominent；
(3) ready-made clothes for obtaining step (1) is by postmedial line doubling, and left and right sleeve respectively set on two panels anter up and down by folding, makes
Whole clothing be folded into it is complete before plate shape, then be placed in it is seamless applying in the double-deck paper matrix, according to the circle of paper membrane move towards into
Row, which promotes, to be folded, and is wound and is tightened with rope；The sizing of steam box high temperature is placed, the temperature for adjusting steam box is 150 DEG C, and the time is maintained at
20min makes clothes generate permanent crease skin texture, obtains the pleat with circular geometry moulding after natural cooling；Compare one
As need to carry out washing collapse step in method, for such method without washing, process is simpler, and high-temperature shaping imitates clothes fold
Fruit is more permanent.
Comparative example 1
(1) the horizontal and vertical of clothes is high-volume cut by 1:1.5 and 1:1 respectively, obtains garment piece.
(2) upper layer and lower layer paper membrane is made, paper membrane is slightly larger than step according to designed geometry pleat image with hard card paper
(1) garment piece in, and by paper membrane steam high-temperature shaping, temperature is 110 DEG C, cooling, two layers of paper membrane being unfolded.
(3) garment piece in step (1) is placed among two layers of paper membrane being unfolded in step (2), paper membrane is echoed into garment piece with pleat
Shape folds, and fixes paper membrane with rope, and the paper membrane fixed is placed on the sizing of steam box high temperature, adjusts temperature and is 110 DEG C and protects
It holds 20 minutes, makes its sizing, take out paper membrane, natural cooling is cooled to the paper membrane that feel is normal, is formed.
(4) step (1) underpants' piece is repeated into step (2) and step (3), takes out clothing from the paper matrix being formed in step (3)
Piece is sutured with sewing machine, obtains pleat；According to the style moulding of design, the part seams such as addition follows closely button, sets in sleeve son
It closes, and it is soft to use softening agents immersion to add, and completes the production processing with this.
Fig. 6 is this comparative example fold skin texture figure, compares with embodiment 1, is equally the pattern of V word figure fold, embodiment 1
Because being that ready-made clothes is crimped, change the cutting of cuff, it is directly crimped after the suture of two panels garment piece, eliminate extra sewing step and
Crimped step, and cuff moulding is docile, fold skin texture and the clothing body integration of cuff, overall effect is good, is also conducive to factory's batch
Metaplasia produces.The interface of cuff and clothing body in this comparative example, fold skin texture is unnatural, and globality effect is poor, and the later period sews
Step is extra, takes time and effort.
Claims (6)
1. a kind of ready-made clothes pleat shape making method based on paper matrix, comprising:
(1) clothes high-volume, cut, obtain garment piece according to lateral, longitudinal direction 1:1-1:2 shrinkage, suture, obtain sewing
Ready-made clothes；
(2) geometric figure of required paper membrane is designed, folding line spacing is set as 1-1.5mm, cutting, it then follows it moves towards folding of taking advantage of a situation
It is folded, obtain the double-deck paper membrane according to certain geometry aligned transfer；
(3) ready-made clothes sew in step (1) is folded, be placed in it is seamless applying in bilayer paper membrane in step (2), according to
The geometry cutting trend of paper membrane is folded, and is tightened, high-temperature shaping, cooling, obtains pleat.
2. the method according to claim 1, wherein local suture, part are carried out in the step (1) when suture
Suture includes: stitch the sole to the upper collar, at least one of sets in sleeve son.
3. the method according to claim 1, wherein cutting is using laser cutting machine in the step (2).
4. the method according to claim 1, wherein the step (3) high temperature setting temperature is 120~150
DEG C, the high-temperature shaping time is 20 minutes.
5. the method according to claim 1, wherein pleat is according to the difference of style in the step (3)
Layout carries out local suture.
6. according to the method described in claim 5, it is characterized in that, the part suture includes nail button, stitch the sole to the upper zipper, stitch the sole to the upper waistband
At least one of.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811636227.XA CN109645611B (en) | 2018-12-29 | 2018-12-29 | Paper mold-based garment pleat pressing and shaping method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811636227.XA CN109645611B (en) | 2018-12-29 | 2018-12-29 | Paper mold-based garment pleat pressing and shaping method |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN109645611A true CN109645611A (en) | 2019-04-19 |
| CN109645611B CN109645611B (en) | 2021-04-02 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201811636227.XA Active CN109645611B (en) | 2018-12-29 | 2018-12-29 | Paper mold-based garment pleat pressing and shaping method |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113100511A (en) * | 2021-05-14 | 2021-07-13 | 丛剑 | Chinese clothes cutting technique without labor and time |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1297707A (en) * | 1999-09-29 | 2001-06-06 | 株式会社爱美多 | Method for making crepe clothes and crepe clothes made with the same method |
| CN1568848A (en) * | 2004-04-27 | 2005-01-26 | 东华大学 | Film attached pleats pressing plastic method for apparels |
| CN107747167A (en) * | 2017-11-16 | 2018-03-02 | 东华大学 | It is a kind of to carry out artificial crimped apparel modeling preparation method using paper membrane |
| CN107853783A (en) * | 2017-11-16 | 2018-03-30 | 东华大学 | A kind of apparel modeling method crimped using fiber drum high temperature |
-
2018
- 2018-12-29 CN CN201811636227.XA patent/CN109645611B/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1297707A (en) * | 1999-09-29 | 2001-06-06 | 株式会社爱美多 | Method for making crepe clothes and crepe clothes made with the same method |
| CN1568848A (en) * | 2004-04-27 | 2005-01-26 | 东华大学 | Film attached pleats pressing plastic method for apparels |
| CN107747167A (en) * | 2017-11-16 | 2018-03-02 | 东华大学 | It is a kind of to carry out artificial crimped apparel modeling preparation method using paper membrane |
| CN107853783A (en) * | 2017-11-16 | 2018-03-30 | 东华大学 | A kind of apparel modeling method crimped using fiber drum high temperature |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113100511A (en) * | 2021-05-14 | 2021-07-13 | 丛剑 | Chinese clothes cutting technique without labor and time |
| CN113100511B (en) * | 2021-05-14 | 2023-09-29 | 丛剑 | Chinese dress non-provincial cutting technique |
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| CN109645611B (en) | 2021-04-02 |
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