CN113100511A

CN113100511A - Chinese clothes cutting technique without labor and time

Info

Publication number: CN113100511A
Application number: CN202110524999.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 丛剑
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2021-05-14
Filing date: 2021-05-14
Publication date: 2021-07-13
Anticipated expiration: 2041-05-14
Also published as: CN113100511B

Abstract

The invention discloses a Chinese uniform cutting-out technique without standing, and aims to solve the technical problems that the existing Chinese uniform planar cutting-out technique is complex in manufacturing process and cannot fit a human body. The invention comprises the following steps: cutting an opening on the non-woven paper, taking the intersection of the neck and the shoulder as an original point, and sequentially and vertically fixing the rear piece and the central axis of the back by a bead needle by adopting a radiation method; on the premise of ensuring the shoulder to be smooth, the front piece is flatly laid on the front half of the mannequin to draw a neck line; finding the middle vertical part of the front sheet, taking a vertical line at the position exceeding the middle line 2/3, and subtracting the redundant part; and (5) manufacturing crossbeams, sleeves and lower hems. The invention has the beneficial technical effects that: the vertical cutting technology is applied to the Chinese clothes manufacturing, the cutting process is simplified, and the manufactured Chinese clothes are more in line with human engineering and convenient to popularize.

Description

Chinese clothes cutting technique without labor and time

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of Chinese clothes manufacturing processes, in particular to a Chinese clothes non-provincial and vertical cutting skill.

Background

The traditional Chinese clothes cutting method is plane cutting, does not consider the structure of a human body, is wide in sleeves in many times and does not accord with the modern life style. The existing cutting process needs to measure the size of a human body firstly, then separate garment pieces are manufactured according to different parts, and finally the garment pieces are sewn. Therefore, in order to inherit the production technology of Chinese-cultural clothes, a cutting mode meeting the modern life style and the manufacturing technology is urgently needed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a Chinese garment cutting technique without standing, so as to solve the technical problem that the existing Chinese garment cutting technique is complex in manufacturing process and cannot fit a human body.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

designing a Chinese uniform no-province and no-standing cutting technique, comprising:

step 1: taking a section of non-woven paper, and cutting an opening at the edge of the non-woven paper;

step 2: fixing the root of the opening at the intersection of the neck and the shoulder of the mannequin, taking the fixed point as an original point, rotating the non-woven paper to enable the included angle between the edge of the non-woven paper and the central axis of the back of the mannequin to be 0-30 degrees, forming a surplus amount, and then overlapping and fixing the edge of the non-woven paper and the central axis of the back on the back of the mannequin to serve as a back piece;

and step 3: the non-woven paper is wound around the shoulders of the mannequin, the non-woven paper is flatly laid on the front face of the mannequin and fixed on the premise of guaranteeing the flat shoulders, the surplus in the step 2 is distributed to the back or the chest according to the actual human body, the neck circumference line is drawn, and the surplus part above the neck circumference line is cut off to be used as the front piece;

and 4, step 4: finding out the middle vertical part of the front part, taking a vertical line on one side exceeding the middle line, and cutting off redundant parts along the vertical line;

and 5: taking a long strip-shaped non-woven paper, fixing the rear middle vertical part of the long strip-shaped non-woven paper in the center of the back neck part of the mannequin by a bead needle, taking out a neckline line of a cross collar according to a track that the long strip bypasses the neck part, and cutting off the redundant part above the cross collar in the front piece;

step 6: combining the front and rear sheets, fixing the front and rear sheets to the armpit from the waist by a bead needle along the side seam line of the cut mannequin, and cutting off the redundant parts;

and 7: cutting the shapes of sleeves and hems on the front piece and the rear piece;

and 8: and taking down the cut non-woven paper from the mannequin and placing the non-woven paper on a fabric, wherein the fabric is a double-layer folded fabric, an included angle between the central axis of the back of the non-woven paper and the folded line of the fabric is-15 degrees, and the fabric is cut according to the shape of the non-woven paper.

Preferably, the transverse radius of the opening in the step 1 is the same as that of the neck of the cutting mannequin.

Preferably, the vertical line in step 4 exceeds the intermediate line 2/3.

Preferably, the width of the long-strip-shaped non-woven paper in the step 5 is 6 cm.

Preferably, after the neckline line of the cross collar is taken out in the step 5, the cross collar is drawn according to cross collar shapes of different styles, and then redundant parts are removed.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial technical effects that:

1. the invention reserves Chinese culture dress basic symbols: the characteristics of the crossband, the right aestates, the lapel sleeves and the like are kept, a one-piece two-dimensional cutting mode of the Chinese culture clothing is kept, the human engineering is combined, the vertical cutting skill is fused, and the breakthrough of the Chinese culture clothing cutting mode from two-dimensional plane cutting to three-dimensional cutting is effectively realized.

2. The invention changes the cutting angle of the woven fabric, changes the horizontal and vertical longitude and latitude relationship into a 38-degree oblique cutting mode, so that the non-elastic woven fabric has elasticity, and the body structure lines are cut in a mode suitable for pattern according to the width of the fabric. The Chinese cultural clothing is no longer a wide-sleeve garment, but becomes more fit and comfortable, and is more convenient to use in modern life style and working style.

3. The invention makes the fabric without elasticity become malleable and is suitable for various human body specifications. Therefore, the original pushing and placing specification becomes more humanized and fuzzy, people are not limited by the specification any more, for example, one code is placed every 4cm originally, and one code can be placed every 8cm or more at present, so that the stock phenomenon of the clothing industry is greatly reduced, and the goods returning and changing rate caused by the specification limitation is also greatly reduced.

4. The invention uses the three-dimensional cutting process, so that the plane cutting of the original Chinese and cultural ethnic clothes can be finished on a mannequin in a vertical cutting mode, the difficulty of learning and training is reduced, the non-woven paper with stronger plasticity is used for replacing cotton greige cloth for printing, the plate sample and the greige cloth are formed at one time, the greige cloth does not need to be sewn, the unified greige cloth and paper sample can be obtained on the mannequin only by the bead needle and the non-woven paper, the research and development time is shortened, the research and development cost is reduced, and the production efficiency is greatly improved.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a front panel structure of a Han dynasty uniform without the technique of vertical cutting.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a rear panel structure of a Hanzi jacket without a standing cutting technique.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a Chinese uniform without a cutting technique.

Detailed Description

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention in detail and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention in any way.

Example 1: a Chinese clothes cutting technique without the need of vertical cutting is provided, which combines the aesthetic design concept with the vertical cutting technology to form a new cutting process. For example, the aesthetics is different according to the essence of the Chinese culture aesthetic julian thought and the Taoist thought, for example, the sum of the julian thought. As appropriate. Therefore, the idea of the Taoist is natural. It has the meaning of achieving. The cutting process keeps the basic symbols of Chinese cultural clothing: the characteristics of the crossband, the right aestates, the lapel sleeves and the like are kept, a one-piece two-dimensional cutting mode of the Chinese culture clothing is kept, the human engineering is combined, the vertical cutting skill is fused, and the breakthrough of the Chinese culture clothing cutting mode from two-dimensional plane cutting to three-dimensional cutting is effectively realized.

The cutting process carries out Chinese culture aesthetic philosophy thinking and utilizes the generative concept of existence and nonexistence. The traditional way of cropping is to crop the longitude and latitude relationship, which is the "there" spatial relationship. The aesthetic cutting skill is to cut the spatial relationship between longitude and latitude, which is the "none" spatial relationship. The result is that the cutting angle of the woven fabric is changed, the horizontal and vertical warp-weft relation is changed into a 38-degree oblique cutting mode, and the non-elastic woven fabric has elasticity. Simply speaking, according to the width of the fabric, the body structure lines are cut in a mode suitable for pattern. The Chinese cultural clothing is no longer a wide-sleeve garment, but becomes more fit and comfortable, and is more convenient to use the Chinese cultural clothing in modern life modes and working modes, such as student uniform, professional uniform, labor protection uniform and other practical fields.

For example, the aesthetic Chinese placket cutting technology is Chinese cultural ethnic clothes, and the cutting method of the mark western-style clothes enables inheritance and development of the Chinese national costume to have more possibility and space, and aims to popularize, modernize and industrialize the Chinese cultural ethnic clothes and better accord with modern life style and production relationship. For the purpose, like the aesthetic Chinese placket cutting skill, the ergonomic and the longitude and latitude angles of the fabric are organically fused, and the method comprises the following steps:

1. cutting an opening with the same transverse radius as the neck of the cut human platform by using non-woven paper with strong plasticity, taking a neck-shoulder junction as an original point, adopting a radiation method, taking a shoulder-neck point as the original point, rotating the non-woven paper to enable an included angle between the edge of the non-woven paper and a central axis of the back of the human platform to be 0-30 degrees so as to form a surplus amount, and sequentially and vertically fixing the back piece and the central axis of the back by using a bead needle;

2. flatly paving the non-woven paper on the mannequin, drawing a neck line on the front half body of the mannequin on the angle of the shoulder inclined part on the premise of ensuring the flat shoulders, and cutting off the redundant part to obtain the result that the longitude and latitude of the rear part are straight wires and the longitude and latitude of the front part are oblique wires;

3. finding out the middle vertical part of the front part, taking a vertical line at the position exceeding the middle line 2/3, cutting off the angles and spaces between the redundant parts and the warps and wefts of the fabric, so that the fabric which is not elastic originally has elasticity and is more pendulous, the pushing and pulling amount of the traditional cutting process is weakened, the manufacturing method is simpler, and the fabric is more comfortable to wear by people and has no constraint feeling;

4. taking a strip-shaped non-woven paper with the width of 6cm, fixing the rear middle vertical part at the center of the rear neck part of the mannequin by a bead needle, taking out a crossed neckline line according to the track of the strip passing around the neck part, and cutting off the redundant part;

5. drawing a 6cm wide collar strip in order according to the wanted cross collar shape, and removing redundant parts;

6. according to the cut mannequin side seam lines, combining the garment pieces of the front and rear pieces, fixing the garment pieces to the armpit by a bead needle according to the mannequin side seam lines, and cutting off redundant parts;

7. cutting out sleeve parts according to the shape of the sleeves required by the user;

8. correcting the shape of the lower hem according to the shape of the lower hem required by the user;

9. taking down the cut pieces from the cutting mannequin, and putting the cut pieces on a chopping board to correct details;

10. taking down the manufactured non-woven paper template from the mannequin and placing the template on the double-layer folded cloth, wherein the central axis of the back of the non-woven paper is superposed with the folding line of the cloth, the cloth is cut according to the shape of the non-woven paper, and the cloth is unfolded to obtain the ready-made clothes.

As the aesthetic Chinese placket cutting technique is adopted, the fabric without elasticity becomes malleable and is suitable for various human body specifications, so that the original pushing and placing specification becomes more humanized and fuzzy, people are not limited by the specification any more, for example, one yard is placed every 4cm, and one yard can be placed every 8cm or more at present, thereby greatly reducing the stock phenomenon of the clothing industry and greatly reducing the goods return rate caused by the specification limitation. The cutting mode suitable for various body types and specifications is dark and has the meaning of 'like', so that the cutting mode is suitable for body types and fabric cloth.

The Chinese clothes do not have the provincial and vertical cutting skill, the radiation cutting lines with the neck and shoulder points as the circle centers can be adjusted according to the width condition of the fabric, the agile and comfortable effect is achieved, the surplus quantity with a certain angle (about 0-30 degrees) is formed by rotation, the Chinese clothes can be flexibly applied according to the characteristics of different human bodies, the complicated provincial channels do not need to be arranged according to the mannequins, and the surplus quantity can be randomly distributed on different parts such as the back, the chest and the like, so that the body shape fitting effect is achieved.

For example, the aesthetic Chinese placket cutting technique applies the three-dimensional cutting process, the plane cutting of the original Chinese cultural ethnic clothes can be completed on a mannequin in a vertical cutting mode, the difficulty of learning and training is reduced, the non-woven paper with strong plasticity replaces cotton gray cloth for printing, the plate sample and the gray cloth are formed in one step, the gray cloth does not need to be sewn, the fit gray cloth and the paper sample can be obtained on the mannequin only by virtue of the bead needle and the non-woven paper, the research and development time is shortened, the research and development cost is reduced, and the production efficiency is greatly improved. The technology can effectively reduce the waste of the fabric, improve the utilization rate of the woven fabric, apply the one-piece type cutting technology, greatly reduce the sewing procedures and improve the manufacturing efficiency.

The Chinese placket cutting design facilitates the modernization transformation of Chinese cultural ethnic costumes, the effect of a three-dimensional cutting mode is expressed by a two-dimensional cutting mode, the edition and the stacking are convenient to push, the style change is convenient, the design of cutting dividing lines is convenient to cut, the time and the labor are saved in the design and the manufacture of the costume, and the modernization popularization and the application of the Chinese cultural ethnic costume are convenient.

While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the drawings and the embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various specific parameters in the above embodiments can be changed without departing from the spirit of the present invention, and a plurality of specific embodiments are formed, which are common variation ranges of the present invention, and will not be described in detail herein.

Claims

1. A Chinese uniform no-province and no-standing cutting skill is characterized by comprising the following steps:

and 8: and taking down the cut non-woven paper from the mannequin and placing the non-woven paper on a fabric, wherein the fabric is a double-layer folded fabric, the central axis of the back of the non-woven paper is superposed with the folding line of the fabric, and the fabric is cut according to the shape of the non-woven paper.

2. The Hanzi costume no-standing cutting technique as claimed in claim 1, wherein the transverse radius of the opening and the neck of the cut mannequin in step 1 is the same.

3. The hatschek technique of claim 1, wherein the vertical line in step 4 exceeds the intermediate line 2/3.

4. The Hanzi-Do-free cutting technique according to claim 1, wherein the width of the strip-shaped non-woven paper in the step 5 is 6 cm.

5. The Han Dynasty suit no-provincial or vertical cutting skill of claim 4, wherein the line of the neckline taken out in the step 5 is drawn in order according to the shape of the neckline with different styles, and then the redundant part is removed.