CN105595493A - Business suit tapered cutting method and business suit cut piece - Google Patents

Business suit tapered cutting method and business suit cut piece Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105595493A
CN105595493A CN201610060882.XA CN201610060882A CN105595493A CN 105595493 A CN105595493 A CN 105595493A CN 201610060882 A CN201610060882 A CN 201610060882A CN 105595493 A CN105595493 A CN 105595493A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
skirt
business wear
straight
business
shirt
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Pending
Application number
CN201610060882.XA
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
赵永刚
刘静静
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Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology
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Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology filed Critical Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology
Priority to CN201610060882.XA priority Critical patent/CN105595493A/en
Publication of CN105595493A publication Critical patent/CN105595493A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/01Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils
    • A41H3/015Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils of adjustable type

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a business suit tapered cutting method and a business suit cut piece. The business suit tapered cutting method comprises the steps of determining a cut piece needing tapered cutting; determining the plus or minus amount of the cut piece compared with a standard cut piece according to the elasticity of a shell fabric of the cut piece; arranging a waist dart of a shirt back part of a business suit and an underarm dart of a front part by combining with analysis of human structure characteristics, and avoiding a dart and a slit of a straight skirt of the business suit; determining a tapered cutting structure draft by combining with the specification of the business suit. The business suit cut piece comprises a shirt cut piece and a straight skirt cut piece; the shirt cut piece comprises a back part, a front part, sleeves and a turn-down collar; the back part is provided with a waist dart, and the front part is provided with a waist dart and mastoid amount; the straight skirt cut piece comprises a skirt piece and a waistband, and the skirt piece comprises a skirt back part and a skirt front part; the skirt piece has no dart, no slit is arranged in the rear middle of the skirt piece, and the waistband is a rectangular waistband manufactured in a straight cutting mode. The business suit tapered cutting method and the business cut piece have the characteristic that the business suit cut by the method is fit and comfortable.

Description

The bias cutting method of business wear and business wear garment piece
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing technical field, be specifically related to a kind of bias cutting method and duty of business wearIndustry takes garment piece.
Background technology
Along with China market expanding economy, business wear is transformed into a kind of symbol and image symbol, hasThe features such as symbol, order, labeled, be more and more subject to the attention of all trades and professions.
At present, cutting and the construction design method of business wear are unified and standard, and entirety lacks intention.The structural design of business wear should meet and meets base of principle of human engineering, makes people in the time wearing business wear,Can complete smoothly the various actions function that this work is relevant; Meet again the outward appearance dressing of business wearEffect, business wear should be comparatively fit, and smooth corrugationless, fabric reflecting feel are good, soft, can embodyThe image of women's simpleness, steady, the capable and experienced and confident heart.
Therefore, tapered cut technology is more and more subject to the attention of apparel industry, and fabric 45 is spent positively biased direction,Have a lot of good performances, the tensile property that research discovery fabric 45 is spent positively biased yarn is very good, can obtainThe effect of analogy knitted fabric tensile property, can make clothes more fit by rational structural design; SeparatelyOutward, the wrinkle resistance of oblique fabric is obviously better than straight yarn and horizontal yarn direction, adopts tapered cut technology, is difficult forProduce fold, can meet the appearance requirement of business wear; Tapered cut can also change the gloss of fabricSense, selects the tapered cut of grid fabric, and can also produce some new textures increases the overall dress of business wearDecorations effect, therefore business wear adopts tailoring technique to have higher practical value. Current business wear is obliqueCut out and directly adopt the straight structure drawing method of cutting out to chart, the business wear of making can be because have ignored tiltedlyThe tensile property of yarn, and the various problems such as cause misfiting, uncomfortable occurs, thus can not be effectiveTapered cut technology is applied in the middle of the actual production of clothes.
Summary of the invention
Therefore, the technical problem to be solved in the present invention is to overcome the tapered cut of business wear of the prior artThe business wear that method is determined misfits, uncomfortable defect, thereby provides a kind of business wear of determining to closeBias cutting method and the business wear garment piece of body, comfortable business wear.
The bias cutting method of a kind of business wear of the present invention, comprising:
Determine the garment piece that needs tapered cut in described business wear;
According to the elasticity of the fabric of described garment piece, determine that described garment piece adds deduct than the garment piece of standard No. typeHigh-volume;
In conjunction with the analysis to organization of human body feature, the shirt rear panel in described business wear is established waist and is economized, anterIf oxter province, the straight skirt in described business wear does not arrange provincial highway and makes a slit or vent;
In conjunction with number type of described business wear, determine tapered cut structure drawing.
The fabric of described business wear shirt is that cotton is washed nonelastic strip fabric.
Described in tapered cut, when the shirt of business wear, tapered cut structure drawing step comprises: described business wear shirtTapered cut structure drawing, be on the specification basis of 160/84A type, to increase and decrease size to complete;Wherein the size of C/B length reduces 1cm, and chest measurement adds 6cm high-volume, the dark 24cm of muffs, anter upper horizontal lineOn lift 1cm, mastoid process amount 3cm; Rear shoulder slope is decreased to 13:4.5, and front shoulder slope is decreased to 13:5,Point of shoulder point takes in 1cm, and in the time of drawing, 45 ° of tapered cut ground lines in described business wear shirt, to protectThe straight yarn direction that card provincial highway is in fabric is foundation, gets BP point and draws altogether five 45 ° of ground lines, fiveDescribed in bar, on 45 ° of ground lines, get respectively 1cm, 3cm, 2cm, 3cm, 2cm, 1cm draws and economizes greatly,By the described provincial highway of left front, with the wide terminal of the left front length of inquiring after the health of one's parents.
The fabric of described business wear straight skirt is the nonelastic strip fabric of terylene.
Described in tapered cut, when the straight skirt of business wear, tapered cut structure drawing step comprises: described business wear is straightThe tapered cut structure drawing of sheath skirt is on the specification basis of 160/66A type, to increase and decrease size to have comeBecome, structure comprises and only comprises one-piece skirt sheet, a slice waistband; When drawing, waistline hip circumference is all without looseningAmount, the basic framework of skirt sheet is four duplicate structures, Jiang Yao forms oblique arc after economizing and mergingLine waist and oblique camber line hipline, whole skirt sheet is not established provincial highway, does not arrange in rear and makes a slit or vent and install hiddenShape slide fastener, waistline and the hipline of formation camber line after latasuture merges, waistband is to adopt straight sanction modeRectangle waistband.
Described CONCEAL ZIPPER is installed in 3cm place on rear MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE.
A kind of business wear garment piece of being made up of said method of the present invention, comprises shirt garment piece and straight skirtGarment piece,
Described shirt garment piece, comprises described rear panel, described anter, sleeve and lapel; Described rear panel is establishedPut waist and economize, described anter arranges waist and economizes and mastoid process amount;
Described straight skirt garment piece, comprises described skirt sheet and described waistband, described skirt sheet comprise skirt rear panel andSkirt anter; Described skirt sheet is not established provincial highway, does not establish and makes a slit or vent in rear, and described waistband is that directly sanction mode is madeRectangle waistband.
On the size basis of the shirt garment piece specification that is 160/84A in number type, described rear panel arranges 2cmWaist economize, economize point apart from BL BUST LINE 2-3cm, described anter arrange 2cm waist economize, economize point apart from BL BUST LINE3-4cm, described anter also arranges 3cm mastoid process amount.
Technical solution of the present invention, tool has the following advantages:
1. the bias cutting method of business wear provided by the invention, comprising: determine in described business wear and need tapered cutGarment piece; According to the elasticity of the fabric of described garment piece, determine that described garment piece adds than the garment piece of standard No. typeOr subtract high-volume; In conjunction with the analysis to organization of human body feature, the shirt rear panel in described business wear is established waist and is economized,Anter is established oxter province, and the straight skirt in described business wear does not arrange provincial highway and makes a slit or vent; In conjunction with described occupationNumber type of clothes, determines tapered cut structure drawing. The bias cutting method of business wear of the present invention is according to clothesNumber type of fabric, organization of human body feature and clothes, determine tapered cut structure drawing, than existingBias cutting method, have advantages of fit, comfortablely, can effectively bias cutting method be applied to occupationIn the middle of the actual production of clothes.
2. business wear garment piece provided by the invention, comprises shirt garment piece and straight skirt garment piece. Described shirtGarment piece, comprises described rear panel, described anter, sleeve and lapel; Described rear panel arranges waist and economizes, described inAnter arranges waist and economizes and mastoid process amount; Described straight skirt garment piece, comprises described skirt sheet and described waistband, instituteState skirt sheet and comprise skirt rear panel and skirt anter; Described skirt sheet is not established provincial highway, does not establish and makes a slit or vent, described waist in rearThe rectangle waistband that head is made for straight sanction mode. Have advantages of that the clothes of determining is fit, comfortable.
Brief description of the drawings
In order to be illustrated more clearly in the specific embodiment of the invention or technical scheme of the prior art, underFace will be briefly described the accompanying drawing of required use in detailed description of the invention or description of the Prior Art,Apparently, the accompanying drawing in the following describes is some embodiments of the present invention, general for this areaLogical technical staff, is not paying under the prerequisite of creative work, can also obtain according to these accompanying drawingsObtain other accompanying drawing.
Fig. 1 is the flow chart of the bias cutting method of business wear of the present invention;
The rear panel that Fig. 2 is the business wear shirt that provides in the first embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 3 is the anter of the business wear shirt shown in Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is the sleeve of the business wear shirt shown in Fig. 2;
Fig. 5 is the lapel of the business wear shirt shown in Fig. 2;
The skirt rear panel that Fig. 6 is the business wear straight skirt that provides in the first embodiment of the present invention;
Fig. 7 is the skirt anter of the business wear straight skirt shown in Fig. 6;
Fig. 8 is the waistband of the business wear straight skirt shown in Fig. 6;
The straight sanction structure drawing that Fig. 9 is the business wear shirt that provides in the first embodiment of the present invention;
Figure 10 is the tapered cut structure drawing of business wear shirt shown in Fig. 9;
Figure 11 is a complete set of model of business wear shirt shown in Fig. 9;
The tapered cut structure system that Figure 12 is the business wear straight skirt that provides in the first embodiment of the present inventionFigure;
Figure 13 is a complete set of model of business wear straight skirt shown in Figure 12.
Description of reference numerals:
1-rear panel, 2-anter, 3-sleeve, 4-lapel, 5-skirt sheet, 51-skirt rear panel, 52-skirt anter,6-waistband.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, technical scheme of the present invention is clearly and completely described, obviously,Described embodiment is the present invention's part embodiment, instead of whole embodiment. Based on thisEmbodiment in bright, those of ordinary skill in the art obtain not making under creative work prerequisiteEvery other embodiment, all belong to the scope of protection of the invention.
In addition,, in the different embodiments of described the present invention, related technical characterictic needs only thatBetween this, not forming conflict just can mutually combine.
As shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2-Fig. 8, the bias cutting method of a kind of business wear of the present invention, comprising:
Determine the garment piece that needs tapered cut in described business wear;
According to the elasticity of the fabric of described garment piece, determine that described garment piece adds deduct than the garment piece of standard No. typeHigh-volume;
In conjunction with the analysis to organization of human body feature, the shirt rear panel 1 in described business wear is established waist and is economized, frontSheet 2 is established oxter province, and the straight skirt in described business wear does not arrange provincial highway and makes a slit or vent;
In conjunction with number type of described business wear, determine tapered cut structure drawing.
The analysis of the architectural feature of described combination to human body, is specially, and women's chest is protruding is that business wear is obliqueVery important supporting surface when sanction, shoulder is also a supporting surface, and waist does not have supporting surface, and buttocks is oneIndividual supporting surface, has the place of supporting surface, can give outside power of oblique fabric, increases stretching of fabricLong, draw business wear tapered cut, should be according to the performance chest measurement of fabric and adding of hip circumference in the time of structure drawingHigh-volume want suitable reducing, shoulder slope angle reduces, and shoulder line shortens, and across back quantity of margin increases.
The bias cutting method of business wear of the present invention is according to the fabric of clothes, organization of human body feature and clothingNumber type of clothes, determines tapered cut structure drawing, than existing bias cutting method, has fit, easyproSuitable advantage, can be applied to bias cutting method in the middle of the actual production of business wear effectively.
The structure drawing of the shirt of the business wear of the present embodiment, is to be 160/84A based on number type, and fabric isCotton is washed and carries out on the basis of strip fabric (containing cotton 60%, washing 40%, nonelastic), wherein above-mentioned numberThe specification standards of type are: C/B length 62cm, chest measurement 90cm, shoulder breadth 38cm, sleeve length 20cm. On-jobIndustry takes in the tapered cut structure drawing process of shirt, and C/B length size reduces 1cm; Chest measurement adds 6cm high-volume;The dark 24cm of muffs, lifts 1cm on anter upper horizontal line, mastoid process amount 3cm; Rear shoulder slope is decreased to 13:4.5,Front shoulder slope is decreased to 13:5, and point of shoulder point takes in 1cm left and right, to adapt to the oblique yarn face at shoulder support placeThe distortion of material. In the time of drawing, 45 ° of tapered cut ground lines in described business wear shirt, to ensure provincial highwayThe straight yarn direction that is in fabric is foundation, gets BP point and draws altogether five 45 ° of ground lines, described in fiveOn 45 ° of ground lines, get respectively 1cm, 3cm, 2cm, 3cm, 2cm, 1cm draws and economizes greatly, by doorThe described provincial highway of the flap, with the wide terminal of the left front length of inquiring after the health of one's parents.
Particularly, the drawing step of the shirt of described business wear is as follows:
Step 1: Fig. 9 is the straight sanction structure drawing of the shirt of business wear, in latasuture and waist reasonable distributionChest waist is poor, and rear panel 1 arranges the waist of 2cm and economizes, and economizes point apart from BL BUST LINE 2-3cm, to increase scapular regionAcross back amount, the Clothing Pressure that while preventing physical activity, fabric causes human body in extended state always and thenThe discomfort producing; Anter 2 arranges 3cm mastoid process amount, and the waist that 2cm is large is economized, and economizes point apart from BL BUST LINE3-4cm. After anter 2 and rear panel 1 are completed, according to right back, left front part, right anterior plate, left backSheet, right back discharge.
Step 2: Figure 10 is the tapered cut structure drawing of the shirt of business wear. In order to ensure the direction of provincial highwayWith the warp thread direction state close to the vertical shape of fabric, provincial highway is more stable, the reasonable shape bust of energyForm. Therefore, 45 ° of oblique line directions ground lines, draw with the BP (apart from front middle 9cm) of anter, pressAccording to finding altogether 5 45 ° of tapered cut ground lines shown in figure, using this line, as economizing center line, to get province large. Note,Article 3 and the 4th, tapered cut ground line, by left front, for ensureing the form of left front, governor is wide at left frontCut-off is got mid point on this governor, draws provincial highway large. The mastoid process amount of 3cm is transferred to waist economizes simultaneouslyIn, ensure that provincial highway is in straight yarn direction. Sleeve 3 and lapel 4 chart according to routine.
Step 3: Figure 11 is a complete set of pattern of the shirt of business wear. This drawing economizes into seam by company willAll waists are economized the form with cut-off rule, decompose print. After print decomposes, amalgamation state is shown in figure. To figureAnalyze, the decomposition of print also can, according to characteristics such as the pattern textures of fabric, be carried out other forms ofDecompose. In a complete set of pattern, sleeve adopts straight sanction mode, and lapel part adopts 45 ° of oblique yarn direction discharges,Make after collar turnover the form of striped consistent with clothing body.
The structure drawing of the business wear straight skirt of the present embodiment, is to be 160/66A based on number type, and fabric isOn the basis of the nonelastic fabric of pure terylene, carry out. The specifications design of above-mentioned type is, the long 60cm of skirt,Waistline 66cm (without quantity of margin), hip circumference 90cm (without quantity of margin).
Figure 12 is the straight skirt tapered cut structure drawing of business wear, comprises one-piece skirt sheet 5 and a slice waistband 6.Skirt sheet 5 comprises skirt rear panel 51 and skirt anter 52. The basic framework of skirt sheet is four duplicate structures.When drawing, waistline hip circumference is all without quantity of margin, and the basic framework of skirt sheet 5 is four duplicate structures,Jiang Yao forms oblique camber line waist and oblique camber line hipline after economizing and merging. Figure 13 is the straight of business wearThe a complete set of pattern of sheath skirt, whole skirt sheet 5 is not established provincial highway, 3cm dress CONCEAL ZIPPER on rear MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE,In rear, do not arrange and make a slit or vent, utilize the good tensile property of tapered cut fabric to meet the functional of lower extremity movement.After latasuture merges, form waistline and the hipline of camber line, parcel property is better, can better highlight femaleProperty physical characteristic, again ensure motion comfortable. Waistband 6, for adopting the rectangle waistband 6 of straight sanction mode, is protectedCard waist fabric is not yielding.
The present invention also provides a kind of business wear garment piece of being made up of above-mentioned method, comprise shirt garment piece andStraight skirt garment piece,
Described shirt garment piece, comprises described rear panel 1, described anter 2, sleeve 3 and lapel 4; DescribedRear panel 1 arranges waist and economizes, and described anter 2 arranges waist and economizes and mastoid process amount;
Described straight skirt garment piece, comprises described skirt sheet 5 and described waistband 6, and described skirt sheet 5 comprises after skirtSheet 51 and skirt anter 52; Described skirt sheet 5 is not established provincial highway, does not establish and makes a slit or vent in rear, and described waistband 6 is straightThe rectangle waistband 6 that sanction mode is made.
On the size basis of the shirt garment piece specification that is 160/84A in number type, described rear panel 1 arranges 2cmWaist economize, economize point apart from BL BUST LINE 2-3cm, described anter 2 arrange 2cm waist economize, economize point apart from chest measurementLine 3-4cm, described anter 2 also arranges 3cm mastoid process amount.
Business wear garment piece of the present invention, has advantages of that the clothes of determining is fit, comfortable.
Obviously, above-described embodiment is only for example is clearly described, and not to the side of enforcementThe restriction of formula. For those of ordinary skill in the field, also can on the basis of the above descriptionTo make other changes in different forms. Here without also giving all embodimentsWith exhaustive. And the apparent variation of being extended out thus or the still guarantor in the invention of variationProtect among scope.

Claims (8)

1. a bias cutting method for business wear, is characterized in that, comprising:
Determine the garment piece that needs tapered cut in described business wear;
According to the elasticity of the fabric of described garment piece, determine that described garment piece adds deduct than the garment piece of standard No. typeHigh-volume;
In conjunction with the analysis to organization of human body feature, the shirt rear panel (1) in described business wear is established waist and is economized,Anter (2) is established oxter province, and the straight skirt in described business wear does not arrange provincial highway and makes a slit or vent;
In conjunction with number type of described business wear, determine tapered cut structure drawing.
2. the bias cutting method of business wear according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described occupationThe fabric that takes shirt is that cotton is washed nonelastic strip fabric.
3. the bias cutting method of business wear according to claim 2, is characterized in that, described in tapered cutWhen the shirt of business wear, tapered cut structure drawing step comprises: the tapered cut structure system of described business wear shirtFigure is on the specification basis of 160/84A type, to increase and decrease size to complete; Wherein C/B lengthSize reduce 1cm, chest measurement adds 6cm high-volume, the dark 24cm of muffs, lifts 1cm on anter upper horizontal line, breastProminent amount 3cm; Rear shoulder slope is decreased to 13:4.5, and front shoulder slope is decreased to 13:5, and point of shoulder point takes in 1cm,At when drawing, 45 ° of tapered cut ground lines in described business wear shirt, to ensure that provincial highway is in fabricStraight yarn direction is foundation, gets BP point and draws altogether five 45 ° of ground lines, on five described 45 ° of basesOn line, get respectively 1cm, 3cm, 2cm, 3cm, 2cm, 1cm draws and economizes greatly, described in left frontProvincial highway, with the wide terminal of the left front length of inquiring after the health of one's parents.
4. the bias cutting method of business wear according to claim 3, is characterized in that, described occupationThe fabric that takes straight skirt is the nonelastic strip fabric of terylene.
5. the bias cutting method of business wear according to claim 4, is characterized in that, described in tapered cutWhen the straight skirt of business wear, tapered cut structure drawing step comprises: the tapered cut knot of described business wear straight skirtBody plan figure, is on the specification basis of 160/66A type, to increase and decrease size to complete, structure bagDraw together and only comprise one-piece skirt sheet (5), a slice waistband (6); When drawing, waistline hip circumference is all without quantity of margin,The basic framework of skirt sheet (5) is four duplicate structures, and Jiang Yao forms oblique arc after economizing and mergingLine waist and oblique camber line hipline, whole skirt sheet (5) is not established provincial highway, does not arrange in rear and makes a slit or vent and fillIf CONCEAL ZIPPER, waistline and the hipline of formation camber line after latasuture merges, waistband (6) is straight for adoptingThe rectangle waistband (6) of sanction mode.
6. the bias cutting method of business wear according to claim 5, is characterized in that, described stealthSlide fastener is installed in 3cm place on rear MHL MIDDLE HIPS LINE.
7. a business wear garment piece of being made up of the method described in claim 5 or 6, comprises shirt clothingSheet and straight skirt garment piece, is characterized in that:
Described shirt garment piece, comprises described rear panel (1), described anter (2), sleeve (3) and lapel(4); Described rear panel (1) arranges waist and economizes, and described anter (2) arranges waist and economizes and mastoid process amount;
Described straight skirt garment piece, comprises described skirt sheet (5) and described waistband (6), described skirt sheet (5)Comprise skirt rear panel (51) and skirt anter (52); Described skirt sheet (5) is not established provincial highway, does not establish out in rearVent in the sides of a garment, the rectangle waistband (6) that described waistband (6) is made for straight sanction mode.
8. business wear garment piece according to claim 7, is characterized in that,
On the size basis of the shirt garment piece specification that is 160/84A in number type, described rear panel (1) arrangesThe waist of 2cm is economized, and economizes point apart from BL BUST LINE 2-3cm, and described anter (2) arranges 2cm waist and economizes, and economizes pointApart from BL BUST LINE 3-4cm, described anter (2) also arranges 3cm mastoid process amount.
CN201610060882.XA 2016-01-28 2016-01-28 Business suit tapered cutting method and business suit cut piece Pending CN105595493A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111000310A (en) * 2019-12-21 2020-04-14 山东耶莉娅服装集团有限公司 Twill skirt board making and cutting and sewing process
CN116463842A (en) * 2023-05-08 2023-07-21 上海日播至美服饰制造有限公司 clothing oblique cutting method

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CN101278765A (en) * 2007-08-09 2008-10-08 丁锡强 Clothing bias cutting method

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111000310A (en) * 2019-12-21 2020-04-14 山东耶莉娅服装集团有限公司 Twill skirt board making and cutting and sewing process
CN116463842A (en) * 2023-05-08 2023-07-21 上海日播至美服饰制造有限公司 clothing oblique cutting method

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Application publication date: 20160525