CN110558641B - Combined cutting method for female short-sleeve clothes - Google Patents
Combined cutting method for female short-sleeve clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN110558641B CN110558641B CN201910941736.1A CN201910941736A CN110558641B CN 110558641 B CN110558641 B CN 110558641B CN 201910941736 A CN201910941736 A CN 201910941736A CN 110558641 B CN110558641 B CN 110558641B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 37
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 91
- 239000003337 fertilizer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 13
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000013507 mapping Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037237 body shape Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/22—Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
Abstract
The invention discloses a combined cutting method for a female short-sleeve garment, which comprises the following steps: (1) folding the cloth: forming a four-layer folded fabric rectangle abcd; (2) cutting sleeve pieces: connecting a sleeve length outer point a, a sleeve hill point k, a sleeve hill upper curvature point h, a sleeve hill intersection point i, a sleeve hill lower curvature point g, a sleeve fertilizer point t and a sleeve length inner point t1 to form a sleeve structure; (3) cutting the cut pieces: connecting the shoulder neck point l, the front neck fossa curvature point r and the front neck fossa point m by using an arc to form a front neck fossa arc, and connecting the shoulder neck point l, the rear neck fossa curvature point s and the rear neck fossa point n by using an arc to form a rear neck fossa arc; the shoulder width point o and the shoulder neck point l are connected in a straight line to form a shoulder seam line, and four layers of cloth are cut along the shoulder seam line to form a shoulder structure; connecting the chest major point e, the armhole curvature point g' and the shoulder width point o by using an arc to form an armhole arc, and cutting four layers of cloth to form an armhole; (4) and (5) cutting the collar piece. The cutting method can organically combine adjacent parts for cutting, and greatly improves the cutting efficiency.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cutting method, in particular to a combined cutting method for a short-sleeve female garment.
Background
For a long time, most women's dresses are cut by separating front and back body pieces, sleeves and collars, which causes the phenomena of more drawing and cutting steps, more processes, more sizes and the like of women's dresses.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a combined cutting method for female short sleeves, which solves the problems that each part is cut separately and the matching degree is low in the existing method, can organically combine adjacent parts for cutting, and greatly improves the cutting efficiency.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention provides a combined cutting method for female short sleeves, which comprises the following steps:
(1) folding the cloth: folding the wide edge of the cloth, folding the wide edge of the opening edge into a front fly, and then continuously folding the wide edge to form a four-layer folded cloth rectangle abcd, wherein the ad edge is a folding edge, the bc edge is an opening edge, the point a is an outer point of the sleeve length, the point b is a width point of the remaining cloth edge, and the point d is an upper point of a gallery;
(2) cutting sleeve pieces: drawing a hem rectangle aa1tt1 at a point a of a folded fabric rectangle abcd, drawing a cuff hem point a1 on an ad edge, a sleeve length inner point t1 on an ab edge, and a point t as a sleeve fat point, wherein the length of a hem aa1 is equal to the length of a hem tt1 which is the length of a fabric long edge- (garment length dimension +3.0cm), and the length of a hem at1 is equal to the length of a hem a1t which is the length of a bra dimension/5; setting an arm top point k on the ad edge of the folded fabric rectangle abcd, wherein the length of the arm top height a1k is equal to the chest circumference size/10; connecting a sleeve cap point k and a sleeve fertilizer point t by a straight line to obtain a sleeve cap oblique line kt, quartering the sleeve cap oblique line kt, marking the equant points from the sleeve cap point k to the sleeve fertilizer point t as an equal-divided point, an intermediate-divided point and a lower-divided point respectively, drawing a perpendicular line of the sleeve cap oblique line kt from the equal-divided point to an sleeve cap upper curvature point h, wherein the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve cap height a1k/6, drawing a perpendicular line of the oblique line kt from the lower-divided point to an sleeve cap lower curvature point g, the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve cap height a1k/6-0.6cm, and moving the intermediate-divided point downwards by a distance along the sleeve cap oblique line kt to form a sleeve cap intersection point i;
connecting sleeve length outer points a, sleeve hill points k, sleeve hill upper curvature points h, sleeve hill intersection points i, sleeve hill lower curvature points g, sleeve fertilizer points t and sleeve length inner points t1 to form a sleeve structure, wherein the sleeve hill points k, the sleeve hill upper curvature points h, the sleeve hill intersection points i, the sleeve hill lower curvature points g and the sleeve fertilizer points t are connected through arcs, four layers of cloth are cut during cutting, and two layers of cloth at the ak edge are continuously folded without cutting;
(3) cutting the cut pieces: setting a front collar nest point m and a rear collar nest point n on a bc edge of a folded fabric rectangle abcd, setting a shoulder neck point l on a dc edge, wherein the length of a front straight collar cm is equal to the length of a front transverse collar cl, the length of a rear straight collar cn is equal to (the size of the bra/20 +2.2cm)/3, and the rear transverse collar is the same as the front transverse collar; drawing a vertical line from the middle point of a front neckline lm to a front neck pit curvature point r, wherein the length of the vertical line is 1/3-0.6cm of the front cross-cut collar; drawing a vertical line from the upper third point of a back neckline inclined line ln to a back neckline curvature point s, wherein the length of the vertical line is 1/3-1.6cm of the front cross-open neckline;
connecting the shoulder neck point l, the front neck nest curvature point r and the front neck nest point m by using arcs to form a front neck nest arc lrm, and connecting the shoulder neck point l, the rear neck nest curvature point s and the rear neck nest point n by using arcs to form a rear neck nest arc lsn for neck nest cutting, wherein when the neck nest is cut, the upper two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the front neck nest arc, and the lower two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the rear neck nest arc;
drawing a rectangular pdqo at a right angle of a point d of a cloth rectangle abcd, wherein a shoulder drop point p is on an ad edge, a shoulder flat point q is on a dc edge, a point o is a shoulder width point, the length of a side pd is oq, the length of the side pd is equal to the size of a chest circumference/20, the length of a side dq is equal to the length of a side po, the size of the chest circumference/20-0.8 cm, a shoulder width point o and a shoulder neck point l are connected in a straight line to form a shoulder seam line lo, and four layers of cloth are cut along the shoulder seam line lo to form a shoulder structure;
setting a chest big point e on the ad edge of the fabric rectangle abcd, wherein pe is the depth of an armhole, and the length of pe is equal to the chest circumference size/10 +9.0 cm; connecting the shoulder width point o and the chest large point e in a straight line to form an armhole oblique line oe, making a vertical line segment from the upper third point of the armhole oblique line oe to an armhole curvature point g ', connecting the chest large point e, the armhole curvature point g ' and the shoulder width point o by an arc line to form an armhole arc line og ' e, and cutting four layers of cloth to form the armhole;
cutting off the rectangular block t1tb1b to obtain front and rear garment pieces;
(4) cutting a collar piece: cutting a collar on the residual cloth after cutting the cut piece, setting a collar piece central point u on the armhole depth pe, wherein the length of up is 1/3-adjustment number of the front transverse collar, the adjustment number is 1.1-1.5 cm, and a straight line is connected with the shoulder width point o and the collar piece central point u to form a collar piece central line segment ou; making a vertical line segment to a collar bottom curvature point w at a point which is one third of the collar length line ue and is close to the point e; the central point u of the collar piece, the curvature point w of the collar bottom and the chest large point e are connected by an arc line to form an arc line uwe of the lower opening of the collar for cutting the collar.
Preferably, the long side of the fabric is in the warp direction of the fabric, and the wide side of the fabric is in the weft direction of the fabric.
Preferably, the length of the clothes is 0.4+2.0cm, the size of the chest is type + (10-12 cm), and if the woman is 160/84A, the length of the clothes is (160) 0.4+2.0cm is 66cm, and the size of the chest is type (84) + (10-12 cm) is 94-96 cm.
Preferably, the width of the rear fly is 1.0 cm.
Preferably, a zipper is sewn on the rear fly.
Preferably, the middle division point is shifted down by 0.8-1.0 cm along the sleeve cap oblique line kt to be the sleeve cap intersection point i.
Preferably, the length of the perpendicular line segment from the upper third point of the armhole oblique line oe to the armhole curvature point g' is 4.8-5.2 cm.
Preferably, a vertical line segment from a point which is one third of the neck length line ue and is close to the point e to the neck bottom curvature point w is taken, and the length of the vertical line is 1.0-1.4 cm.
Preferably, the side seams of the panels are: the side seam line efk is formed by making a perpendicular line from a half point of the side seam basic line ek to the waist concave point f and connecting the sleeve top point k, the waist concave point f and the chest large point e by an arc line, and is used for cutting the side seam, and four layers of cloth are cut when cutting.
Preferably, a perpendicular line is drawn from a half point of the side seam base line ek to the waist concave point f, and the length of the perpendicular line is 0 to 2.0 cm.
The combined cutting method for the female short sleeves, disclosed by the invention, solves the problems that in the existing method, each part is cut separately and the matching degree is not high, and has the following advantages:
(1) the cutting method of the invention adopts the method of firstly folding the cloth and then cutting the front and back body pieces, the sleeves and the collar, the front and back body pieces are designed to be cut identically at the shoulder sewing line, the armhole line and the side sewing line, the sleeve caps of the sleeves are inserted at the bottom of the garment piece to be cut with the same radian, and the collar is inserted at the armhole to be cut with the same radian, so that the convex-concave parts are better utilized to process each structure, and the organic combination of the adjacent parts is adopted to carry out cutting, thereby greatly improving the cutting efficiency;
(2) the tailoring method of the invention adopts the length of the garment and the chest circumference as basic mapping data in the aspect of mapping size selection, has the characteristics of simple calculation method, few interference factors between structures and high template matching degree, saves tailoring steps compared with the traditional tailoring method, and adopts the woolen seam tailoring method without considering the seam allowance, thereby improving the working efficiency, simplifying the tailoring steps, achieving the tailoring target of easy operation and easy calculation, and being worthy of popularization.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a flow chart of a combined cutting method for female short sleeves.
Fig. 2 is a schematic view of the first folding of the broadside of the present invention.
Figure 3 is a schematic representation of the second and third folds of the broadside of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of key elements of the folded rectangular fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a first drawing showing the cutting of a garment piece according to the present invention.
Fig. 6 is a second drawing showing cutting of a garment piece according to the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of collar cutting according to the present invention.
FIG. 8 is a first diagram illustrating portions of the present invention during trimming.
FIG. 9 is a second diagram of portions of the present invention during trimming.
FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the appearance effect of the sewn garment of FIG. 8 according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
A method for cutting combined short-sleeve women's clothing, as shown in fig. 1, is a flow chart of the method for cutting combined short-sleeve women's clothing of the present invention, and includes:
(1) folding cloth
As shown in fig. 2, which is a schematic diagram of the first folding of the wide edge of the present invention, and as shown in fig. 3, which is a schematic diagram of the second and third folding of the wide edge of the present invention, the wide edge of the fabric is folded, then the wide edge of the fabric is folded along the wide edge of the fabric, when the back fly is folded, both the two layers of the fabric are folded, and the wide edge is continuously folded to form a rectangular four-layer folded fabric (see fig. 4, fabric rectangular abcd), and the folded part of the back fly is sandwiched between the upper and lower layers of the fabric, wherein the ad edge is a folded edge, and the bc edge is an open edge;
(2) cutting sleeve structure
As shown in fig. 4, which is a schematic diagram of key elements in the folded rectangular fabric of the present invention, a sleeve length outer point a, a cuff folding edge point a1, a sleeve top point k, a sleeve length inner point t1, a sleeve fat point t, a sleeve top curvature point h, a sleeve bottom curvature point g, and a sleeve top intersection point i are set on the folded fabric rectangle abcd to form a short sleeve structure for cutting sleeve pieces.
The rectangle aa1tt1 is a hem rectangle, the hem width aa1 is tt1 which is the long side of the cloth- (the clothes length +3.0cm), and the hem length at1 is a1t which is the chest size/5.
The height a1k of sleeve top is equal to the size of chest circumference/10, and is used for cutting sleeve top and sleeve fat. The sleeve oblique line kt is divided into four equal parts, 3 quartering points are arranged between two end points of the sleeve oblique line kt, points k to t are respectively marked as an equal dividing point, an intermediate dividing point and a lower equal dividing point, a perpendicular line of the oblique line kt is drawn from the equal dividing point to a point h, the point h is an upper curvature point of the sleeve, and the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve height a1 k/6. A vertical line of a slope kt is drawn from the lower bisecting point to a point g, which is the point of curvature under the cuff, and the length of the vertical line is equal to the cuff height a1k/6-0.6 cm. And (3) moving the middle division point down by 0.8-1.0 cm along the oblique line kt to form an arm top intersection point i, wherein the downward movement distance is used as a sewing head, and the downward movement distances of different types can be the same during drawing.
The connecting sleeve length outer point a, the sleeve mountain point k, the sleeve mountain upper curvature point h, the sleeve mountain intersection point i, the sleeve mountain lower curvature point g, the sleeve fertilizer point t and the sleeve length inner point t1 form a sleeve structure, and the sleeve mountain point k, the sleeve mountain upper curvature point h, the sleeve mountain intersection point i, the sleeve mountain lower curvature point g and the sleeve fertilizer point are connected through arcs and used for cutting the sleeve into four layers of cloth, and the two layers of cloth along the ak edge are continuously folded and cannot be cut.
(3) Structure of cutting out clothes
The front and rear neck pockets adopt different-shape drawing methods, and a cloth edge width point b, a garment length point b1, a front neck pocket point m, a rear neck pocket point n, a shoulder neck point l, a front neck pocket curvature point r, a rear neck pocket curvature point s, a shoulder width point o, a chest large point e, an arm hole curvature point g', a waist concave point f, a shoulder flat point q, a hole upper point d and a shoulder falling point p are set to form a front and rear garment body structure for tailoring a garment body.
And setting the front straight collar cm as the front transverse collar cl as the chest circumference size/20 +2.2cm, and drawing the front neckline. The rear open neck cn is set to (frame size/20 +2.2cm)/3, and the rear open neck cl is set to (frame size/20 +2.2cm), and used for drawing the rear neckline, as in the front open neck.
The length of a perpendicular line of the front neckline lm is made from the middle point of the front neckline lm to a point r, the point r is the curvature point of the front neck fossa, and the length of the perpendicular line is 1/3-0.6cm of the front cross-open collar. From the upper third of the rear neck line ln (near point l), a perpendicular line to the rear neck line ln is drawn to a point s, which is the curvature point of the rear neck hole, and the length of the perpendicular line is 1/3-1.6cm from the front cross-neck. As shown in fig. 5, a cutting diagram of the garment piece of the present invention is shown as a first cutting diagram, and as shown in fig. 6, a cutting diagram of the garment piece of the present invention is shown as a second cutting diagram, wherein an arc line is connected with a front neck recess arc line lrm and a rear neck recess arc line lsn to form a front and rear neck recess structure for neck recess cutting, when cutting, the upper two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the front neck recess arc line, and the lower two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the rear neck recess arc line.
A rectangular pdqo is arranged at a right angle at a point d of the fabric rectangle abcd, a point o is a shoulder width point, a rectangular side pd is oq which is the chest size/20, and dq is po which is the chest size/20-0.8 cm, a shoulder seam line lo is connected for drawing a shoulder structure, and the shoulder structure is cut into four layers of fabrics along the shoulder seam line lo, see fig. 5 and 6.
Set up chest major axis e on the ad edge of cloth rectangle abcd, pe is armhole degree of depth, and pe equals chest girth size/10 +9.0 cm. The vertical line to the point g ' of the armhole oblique line oe is made from the upper third point (close to the point e) of the armhole oblique line oe, the point g ' is an armhole curvature point, the length of the vertical line is 4.8-5.2 cm, specific values are sequentially taken from small to large according to the garment number, such as 4.8(155/80A), 4.9(160/84A), 5.0 (165/88A), 5.1(170/92A) and 5.2(175/96A), and the connecting arc line og ' e forms an armhole arc line (namely the armhole line in the figure 5) for cutting the armhole, and when cutting, four layers of cloth are cut.
The side seams of the garment pieces have two modes: (1) taking a perpendicular line from a half point of a side seam basic line ek to a point f of the side seam basic line ek, wherein the point f is a waist concave point, the length of the perpendicular line is 0-2.0 cm, the length of the perpendicular line is taken according to the shape of the garment body, such as the H-shaped body shape, and is 0, such as the body shaping, and is 1, such as the close-fitting shape, and is 2, and an arc line efk is connected to form a side seam for cutting the side seam, and when cutting, four layers of cloth are cut; or, (2) the side seam basic line ek is not cut, and the whole clothes body forms a whole block and is in an H-shaped body profile shape.
Cutting the front and back cut pieces, setting the cut square t1tb1b at the position of the garment hem, and cutting the other arc lines as the sleeve top.
(4) Structure is tailor to collar piece
And cutting a collar at the armhole of the residual cloth after cutting the sleeve, wherein the collar shape belongs to two semi-circles and is opened at the back of the clothes.
As shown in fig. 7, which is a schematic diagram of collar cutting according to the present invention, a collar center point u is set, and a collar center line segment is ou. Wherein, the distance between the central point u of the collar piece and the shoulder drop point p, namely up is 1/3- (the adjustment number is 1.1-1.5 cm) of the front transverse collar. The vertical line of the collar length line ue is taken from a point (close to the point e) on the left third of the collar length line ue to a point w, the point w is a curvature point of the collar bottom, the length of the vertical line is 1.0-1.4 cm, specific values are sequentially taken from small to large according to clothing numbers, for example, 1.0(155/80A), 1.1(160/84A), 1.2(165/88A), 1.3(170/92A) and 1.4(175/96A), and a connecting arc line uwe forms a lower opening arc line of the collar and is used for cutting the collar.
Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the first cut part of the present invention, fig. 9 is a schematic view of the second cut part of the present invention, fig. 8 is a cut side seam, fig. 9 is a cut side seam, and the garment body is formed as a whole without side seams. As shown in FIG. 10, which is a schematic view of the appearance effect of the sewed clothes shown in FIG. 8, a hidden zipper can be arranged on the back clothes piece.
In order to specifically explain the combined cutting method of the short-sleeved women's clothing provided by the invention, the details are explained in the following through an embodiment 1 and an embodiment 2.
Example 1
A combined cutting method for female short sleeves, which sets the length of the made clothes to be 66cm and the bust size to be 96cm, comprises the following steps:
(1) folding cloth
Referring to fig. 2 and 3, the cloth broadside is folded, then the front fly is folded after the opening border cloth broadside is folded, two layers of cloth are all folded when the back front fly is folded, the broadside is continuously folded to form four layers of rectangular folded cloth, the folded part of the back front fly is clamped between the upper and lower layers of cloth, and the rectangular size after the cloth is folded is: the long side of the fabric is 71cm, and the wide side of the fabric is 25cm, so that a fabric rectangle abcd is formed.
(2) Cutting sleeve structure
Referring to fig. 4, a sleeve length outer point a, a cuff folding edge point a1, a sleeve ridge point k, a sleeve length inner point t1, a sleeve fat point t, a sleeve ridge upper curvature point h, a sleeve ridge lower curvature point g and a sleeve ridge intersection point i are set on a folded cloth rectangle abcd to form a short sleeve structure for cutting sleeve pieces.
The rectangle aa1tt1 is a hem rectangle, the hem width aa1 ═ tt1 ═ tt long side- (garment length dimension +3.0cm) ═ 71- (66+3.0) ═ 2.0cm, and the hem length at1 ═ a1t ═ chest dimension/5 ═ 96/5 ═ 19.2 cm.
The height a1k of the sleeve top is equal to the chest size/10 is equal to 96/10 is equal to 9.6cm, and the cutting device is used for cutting the sleeve top and the sleeve fat. The sleeve slope kt is divided into four equal parts, 3 quartering points are arranged between two end points of the sleeve slope kt, points k to t are respectively marked as an equal dividing point, an intermediate dividing point and a lower equal dividing point, a perpendicular line of the slope kt is drawn from the equal dividing point to a point h, the point h is an upper camber point of the sleeve, and the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve height a1k/6 is equal to 9.6/6 is equal to 1.6 cm. A vertical line of a slope kt is drawn from a lower bisecting point to a g point, the g point is a curvature point under the cuff, and the length of the vertical line is equal to the cuff height a1k/6-0.6cm, and is equal to 9.6/6-0.6cm, and is equal to 1.0 cm. And moving the middle division point downwards by 1.0cm along the oblique line kt to form an arm top intersection point i.
The connecting sleeve length outer point a, the sleeve mountain point k, the sleeve mountain upper curvature point h, the sleeve mountain intersection point i, the sleeve mountain lower curvature point g, the sleeve fertilizer point t and the sleeve length inner point t1 form a sleeve structure, and the sleeve mountain point k, the sleeve mountain upper curvature point h, the sleeve mountain intersection point i, the sleeve mountain lower curvature point g and the sleeve fertilizer point are connected through arcs and used for cutting the sleeve into four layers of cloth, and the two layers of cloth along the ak edge are continuously folded and cannot be cut.
(3) Structure of cutting out clothes
The front and rear neck pockets adopt different-shape drawing methods, and a cloth edge width point b, a garment length point b1, a front neck pocket point m, a rear neck pocket point n, a shoulder neck point l, a front neck pocket curvature point r, a rear neck pocket curvature point s, a shoulder width point o, a chest large point e, an arm hole curvature point g', a waist concave point f, a shoulder flat point q, a hole upper point d and a shoulder falling point p are set to form a front and rear garment body structure for tailoring a garment body.
The front straight collar cm is set to the front horizontal collar cl, the chest size/20 +2.2cm is set to the 96/20+2.2 cm is set to the 7.0cm, and the front neckline is drawn. The rear open neck cn is set to (chest size/20 +2.2cm)/3 to (96/20+ 2.2)/3 to 2.3cm, and the rear open neck cl is set to the front open neck cl to the chest size/20 +2.2cm to 96/20+2.2 to 7.0cm, which is the same as the front open neck, and used for drawing the rear neck opening.
The length of the perpendicular line from the middle point of the front neckline lm to the point r of the front neckline lm is 1/3-0.6 cm-1/3-7.0-0.6 cm-1.7 cm. From the upper third of the rear neck line ln (near point l), a perpendicular line to the rear neck line ln is drawn to a point s, which is a curvature point of the rear neck hole, and the length of the perpendicular line is 1/3-1.6cm for the front open neck, 1/3 cm 7.0-1.6cm, and 0.7 cm. The front fossa interna arc lrm and the rear fossa interna arc lsn are connected by arcs to form a front and rear fossa interna structure for fossa interna cutting.
And (3) arranging a rectangular pdqo at a right angle at a point d of the fabric rectangle abcd, wherein the point o is a shoulder width point, the pd (the edge of the rectangle) is oq (the chest size/20 (96/20) 4.8 cm), and dq (the point of the rectangle) is po (the chest size/20-0.8 cm) 96/20-0.8 (4.0 cm), and connecting a shoulder seam line lo for drawing a shoulder structure.
And setting a chest large point e on the ad edge of the fabric rectangle abcd, wherein pe is the depth of an armhole, and pe is the chest size/10 +9.0cm is 96/10+9.0cm is 18.6 cm. The vertical line to the point g ' of the armhole oblique line oe is made from the upper third point (close to the point e) of the armhole oblique line oe, the point g ' is the armhole curvature point, the length of the vertical line is 5.0cm, and the connecting arc line og ' e forms an armhole arc line for cutting the armhole.
The side seam mode of the body is as follows: a perpendicular line of the side seam base line ek is drawn from a half point of the side seam base line ek to a point f, the point f is a waist concave point, the length of the perpendicular line is 1.0cm, a connecting arc line efk forms a side seam line for cutting the side seam, and a 1.0cm seam head is used for sewing.
Cutting the front and back body, setting the cutting block t1tb1b at the position of the clothing pendulum, and cutting the rest arc lines as the sleeve mountains.
(4) Structure is tailor to collar piece
And cutting a collar at the armhole of the residual cloth after cutting the sleeve, wherein the collar shape belongs to two semi-circles and is opened at the back of the clothes.
As shown in fig. 7, which is a schematic diagram of collar cutting according to the present invention, a collar center point u is set, and a collar center line segment is ou. Wherein, the distance between the central point u of the collar piece and the shoulder point p, namely, up is 1/3- (1.1-1.5) ═ 1/3 × (7.0- (1.1-1.5) ═ 0.8-1.2 cm of the front transverse collar. From a point (near the point e) on the left third of the collar length line ue, a perpendicular line of the collar length line ue is drawn to a point w, which is a curvature point of the collar bottom, and the length of the perpendicular line is 1.2cm, and the connecting arc line uwe forms a collar lower opening arc line for cutting the collar.
The cut parts are shown in figure 8 or 9, and the appearance effect of the sewn garment is shown in figure 10.
Example 2
A combined cutting method of short-sleeve women's clothing is used for knitting clothing, the length of the made clothing is set to be 66cm, the chest size is set to be 96cm, the method is basically the same as the embodiment 1, and the difference is that: the broadside of the folded cloth is 24cm, and the side seam mode of the body is as follows: the basic line ek of the side seam is not cut, the whole clothes body forms a whole block, the side seam does not need to be sewn, and the width of the folded cloth is reduced by 1.0cm compared with the embodiment so as to ensure that the size of the bra is not changed.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (10)
1. A combined cutting method for female short sleeves is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) folding the cloth: folding the wide edge of the folded cloth in half, folding the wide edge of the opening edge of the cloth into a front fly, and then continuing folding the wide edge in half to form a four-layer folded cloth rectangle abcd, wherein the ad edge is a folding edge, the bc edge is an opening edge, the point a is an outer point of the sleeve length, the point b is a width point of the remaining cloth edge, and the point d is an upper point of a gallery;
(2) cutting sleeve pieces: drawing a hem rectangle aa1tt1 at a point a of a folded fabric rectangle abcd, drawing a cuff hem point a1 on an ad edge, a sleeve length inner point t1 on an ab edge, and a point t as a sleeve fat point, wherein the length of a hem aa1 is equal to the length of a hem tt1 which is the length of a fabric long edge- (garment length dimension +3.0cm), and the length of a hem at1 is equal to the length of a hem a1t which is the length of a bra dimension/5; setting an arm top point k on the ad edge of the folded fabric rectangle abcd, wherein the length of the arm top height a1k is equal to the chest circumference size/10; connecting a sleeve cap point k and a sleeve fertilizer point t by a straight line to obtain a sleeve cap oblique line kt, quartering the sleeve cap oblique line kt, marking the equant points from the sleeve cap point k to the sleeve fertilizer point t as an equal-divided point, an intermediate-divided point and a lower-divided point respectively, drawing a perpendicular line of the sleeve cap oblique line kt from the equal-divided point to an sleeve cap upper curvature point h, wherein the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve cap height a1k/6, drawing a perpendicular line of the oblique line kt from the lower-divided point to an sleeve cap lower curvature point g, the length of the perpendicular line is equal to the sleeve cap height a1k/6-0.6cm, and moving the intermediate-divided point downwards by a distance along the sleeve cap oblique line kt to form a sleeve cap intersection point i;
connecting sleeve length outer points a, sleeve hill points k, sleeve hill upper curvature points h, sleeve hill intersection points i, sleeve hill lower curvature points g, sleeve fertilizer points t and sleeve length inner points t1 to form a sleeve structure, wherein the sleeve hill points k, the sleeve hill upper curvature points h, the sleeve hill intersection points i, the sleeve hill lower curvature points g and the sleeve fertilizer points t are connected through arcs, four layers of cloth are cut during cutting, and two layers of cloth at the ak edge are continuously folded without cutting;
(3) cutting the cut pieces: setting a front collar nest point m and a rear collar nest point n on a bc edge of a folded fabric rectangle abcd, setting a shoulder neck point l on a dc edge, wherein the length of a front straight collar cm is equal to the length of a front transverse collar cl, the length of a rear straight collar cn is equal to (the size of the bra/20 +2.2cm)/3, and the rear transverse collar is the same as the front transverse collar; drawing a vertical line from the middle point of a front neckline lm to a front neck pit curvature point r, wherein the length of the vertical line is 1/3-0.6cm of the front cross-cut collar; drawing a vertical line from the upper third point of a back neckline inclined line ln to a back neckline curvature point s, wherein the length of the vertical line is 1/3-1.6cm of the front cross-open neckline;
connecting the shoulder neck point l, the front neck nest curvature point r and the front neck nest point m by using arcs to form a front neck nest arc lrm, and connecting the shoulder neck point l, the rear neck nest curvature point s and the rear neck nest point n by using arcs to form a rear neck nest arc lsn for neck nest cutting, wherein when the neck nest is cut, the upper two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the front neck nest arc, and the lower two layers of cloth are cut to obtain the rear neck nest arc;
drawing a rectangle pdqo at a right angle of a point d of a cloth rectangle abcd, wherein a shoulder drop point p is on an ad edge, a shoulder flat point q is on a dc edge, a point o is a shoulder width point, the side length of pd is oq, the side length is the chest size/20, the side length of dq is po, the side length is the chest size/20-0.8 cm, a shoulder width point o and a shoulder neck point l are connected in a straight line to form a shoulder seam line lo, and four layers of cloth are cut along the shoulder seam line lo to form a shoulder structure;
setting a chest big point e on the ad edge of the fabric rectangle abcd, wherein pe is the depth of an armhole, and the length of pe is equal to the chest circumference size/10 +9.0 cm; connecting the shoulder width point o and the chest large point e in a straight line to form an armhole oblique line oe, making a vertical line segment from the upper third point of the armhole oblique line oe to an armhole curvature point g ', connecting the chest large point e, the armhole curvature point g ' and the shoulder width point o by an arc line to form an armhole arc line og ' e, and cutting four layers of cloth to form the armhole;
cutting off the rectangular block t1tb1b to obtain front and rear garment pieces;
(4) cutting a collar piece: cutting a collar on the residual cloth after cutting the cut piece, setting a collar piece central point u on the armhole depth pe, wherein the length of up is 1/3-adjustment number of the front transverse collar, the adjustment number is 1.1-1.5 cm, and a straight line is connected with the shoulder width point o and the collar piece central point u to form a collar piece central line segment ou; making a vertical line segment to a collar bottom curvature point w at a point which is one third of the collar length line ue and is close to the point e; the central point u of the collar piece, the curvature point w of the collar bottom and the chest large point e are connected by an arc line to form an arc line uwe of the lower opening of the collar for cutting the collar.
2. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the long sides of the cloth are in the warp direction of the cloth, and the wide sides of the cloth are in the weft direction of the cloth.
3. The combined cutting method for the short-sleeved women's clothes according to claim 1, wherein the clothes length is 0.4+2.0cm, and the chest size is plus (10-12 cm).
4. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the width of the rear fly is 1.0 cm.
5. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein a zipper is sewn on the rear fly.
6. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein the middle division point is shifted down by 0.8-1.0 cm along the armhole oblique line kt to be an armhole intersection point i.
7. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein a vertical line segment is taken from the upper third point of the armhole oblique line oe to the armhole curvature point g', and the length of the vertical line segment is 4.8-5.2 cm.
8. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 1, wherein a vertical line segment from one third of a point, close to the point e, on the collar length line ue to the curvature point w at the bottom of the collar is taken, and the length of the vertical line is 1.0-1.4 cm.
9. The combined cutting method for the female short-sleeve garment according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the side seams of the garment pieces are as follows:
the side seam line efk is formed by making a perpendicular line from a half point of the side seam basic line ek to the waist concave point f and connecting the sleeve top point k, the waist concave point f and the chest large point e by an arc line, and is used for cutting the side seam, and four layers of cloth are cut when cutting.
10. The combined cutting method for female short sleeves according to claim 9, wherein a perpendicular line is drawn from a half point of the side seam base line ek to the waist concave point f, and the length of the perpendicular line is 0-2.0 cm.
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Denomination of invention: A combined cutting method for short sleeved women's clothing Effective date of registration: 20231212 Granted publication date: 20210101 Pledgee: Bank of China Limited by Share Ltd. Shantou branch Pledgor: Shantou Fenlong Clothing Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2023980071044 |
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