CN112914183A

CN112914183A - Method for making European style suit body piece of man's suit

Info

Publication number: CN112914183A
Application number: CN202110391493.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Xijing University
Priority date: 2021-04-13
Filing date: 2021-04-13
Publication date: 2021-06-08

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for manufacturing a men's European style suit body, which comprises the following steps: manufacturing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece according to the size of the garment, wherein the size represents the height of a human body, and the type represents the chest circumference of the human body; wherein, the preparation of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a basic rectangular structure of the front cut piece, drawing neckline and shoulder structures of the front cut piece, drawing armholes of the front cut piece, drawing side seams of the front cut piece, lapel of the front cut piece, drawing a circular hem and a bottom edge, drawing an upper pocket of the front cut piece, drawing a dart of the front cut piece, drawing a lower pocket of the front cut piece and drawing an armhole dart of the front cut piece; the preparation of the back cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a back-middle structure, drawing a back collar pit structure, drawing a shoulder structure, drawing a back armhole structure and drawing a back garment piece side seam structure. The method disclosed by the invention is designed according to the model, can accurately express the European plate type structure, improves the fitness, and improves the drawing and cutting efficiency.

Description

Method for making European style suit body piece of man's suit

Technical Field

The invention relates to a method for making men's business suit, in particular to a method for making men's European style business suit body.

Background

The men's suit is a kind of clothes which is commonly used by international men, but the suit produced at present has wide pattern, low fitting degree and especially not delicate appearance shape. The men's suits produced by imitating the Japanese-Korean style have the defects of body types, so the men's suits produced by imitating the Japanese-Korean style often have too narrow armholes and limited human body activities, and the coverage rate of the men's suits in the market is not high.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing a men's European style suit body, which solves the problem that the suit manufactured by the existing man's suit manufacturing method is not suitable, can accurately express the European style suit structure according to the size design, improves the fitting degree, and improves the drawing and cutting efficiency.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for making a men's western style suit body, comprising: manufacturing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece according to the size of the garment, wherein the size represents the height of a human body, and the type represents the chest circumference of the human body; wherein, the preparation of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a basic rectangular structure of the front cut piece, drawing neckline and shoulder structures of the front cut piece, drawing armholes of the front cut piece, drawing side seams of the front cut piece, lapel of the front cut piece, drawing a circular hem and a bottom edge, drawing an upper pocket of the front cut piece, drawing a dart of the front cut piece, drawing a lower pocket of the front cut piece and drawing an armhole dart of the front cut piece; the preparation of the back cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a back-middle structure, drawing a back collar pit structure, drawing a shoulder structure, drawing a back armhole structure and drawing a back garment piece side seam structure.

The drawing of the basic rectangular structure of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point f2 is an anterior-medial waist point, a point e4 is an anterior-medial garment length point, a point e1 is an anterior fundus flat point, a point d2 is an anterior waist side point, a line segment f2d2 is equal to a line segment e4e1 which is 0.475 × type, and a line segment f2e4 is equal to a line segment d2e1 which is 0.216 × type; drawing a rectangle b4g4db5, where a point b4 is an anterior shoulder width point, a point g4 is an anterior arm hole left-saving point, a point d is an anterior chest circumference side point, a point b5 is an anterior chest width point, points d and b5 are on an extension line of a line segment e1d2, and a point d is between points d2 and b5, line segments b4b5, g4d, f2d2 and e4e1 are on the same side of a line segment b5e1, a line segment dd2 is 0.224 × type, a line segment b5d is 0.214 × type, and a line segment b4b5 is 0.173 × type; drawing a rectangle af1g4a5, wherein a is a coat length point, f1 is a front overlap vertical point, a5 is a front shoulder side point, a b4g4 is on a line segment g4a5, a5g4 line segment a is 0.264 × long line segment af1, and a5 line segment aa is 0.316 × long line segment f1g 4.

The drawing of the neckline and shoulder structures of the front garment piece comprises the following steps: drawing a front corner point b on the line af1, wherein the neckline deep line ab is 0.098 multiplied; drawing a first front collar point a1, a second front collar point a2, a third front collar point a3 and a front shoulder midpoint a4 on a line segment aa5, and drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment aa5 from points a1, a2 and a4 into a rectangle af1g4a5 to a front collar first curvature point b1, a front collar second curvature point b2 and a front shoulder lower point b3 respectively, wherein a front collar wide line segment aa3 is 0.171 × type, points a1 and a2 are one third of the line segment aa3, the point a1 is close to the point a, the point a4 is the midpoint of a3a5, a front collar first curvature line segment a1b1 is 0.086 × type, a front collar second curvature line segment a2b2 is 0.073 × type, and a 0194 a 01957 × 3 is 0.57 × type; the front panel neckline structure is formed by connecting points a3, b2, b1 and b by arcs respectively, and the front panel shoulder structure is formed by connecting points a3, b3 and b4 by arcs respectively.

Drawing armholes of the front cut pieces, wherein the drawing armholes comprise: taking a line segment b4g4 as an armhole deep line segment, drawing trisection points c and c1 on the line segment, wherein the point c is close to a point b4, drawing perpendicular line segments cc4 and c1c5 of the line segment b4g4 from the points c and c1 to the outside of a rectangle b4g4db5 respectively, the point c is a first front armhole point, the point c1 is a second front armhole point, the point c4 is a first curvature point of the front armhole, the point c5 is a second curvature point of the front armhole, the line segment cc4 is a first armhole curvature line segment, the line segment c1c5 is a second armhole curvature line segment, the line segment cc4 is 0.035 x, and the line segment c1c5 is 0.057 x; drawing an anterior armhole warping side point c3 on the line segment db5, wherein an armhole warping side high line segment dc3 is 0.066 multiplied by type; drawing a vertical line segment from the point c3 to the inside of the rectangle b4g4db5 to a front armhole warping point c2, wherein an armhole warping side line segment c2c3 is 0.081 multiplied; connecting point c2 and point g4 form an armhole warped side oblique line, a perpendicular bisector line segment g1g2 of the line segment c2g4 is drawn towards the line segment g4d, point g1 is on the line segment c2g4, point g1 is a right perpendicular point of the front armhole, point g2 is a right curvature point of the front armhole, and the line segment g1g2 is 0.014 multiplied; drawing a right anterior armhole base dart point g3 on the line segment g4d, wherein the width g4g3 of the armhole base dart is 0.011X type; the front garment arm hole structure is formed by connecting points b4, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2 and c2 by arcs respectively.

Drawing the side seams of the front garment piece, comprising: drawing a front chest circumference large point d1 on a line segment g4d by taking the line segment df1 as a chest circumference width line segment, wherein a closing line segment dd1 on the right side of the chest circumference is 0.076 multiplied; drawing a front waistline point d3 on the line segment f2d2, wherein the front waistline line segment d2d3 is 0.061 × type; drawing a front side swing point e on a line segment e1d2, wherein a warping line segment ee1 of the bottom edge of the front garment piece is 0.047 multiplied; drawing a vertical bisector d4d5 of the rectangle f2e4e1d2 on the line segment d2e, wherein the point d4 is on the line segment d2e, the point d4 is a front hip side point, the point d5 is a front hip maximum point, and the line segment d4d5 is 0.025 x; the front panel side seam structure is formed by connecting the points c2, d1, d3, d5 and e by arcs respectively.

Preceding garment piece is refuted drawing on head, circle pendulum and base, contains: drawing an extension line segment of the line segment f1d to a front lapel point f, wherein the point f is close to a point f1, and a front lapel curvature line segment f1f is 0.5 cm; drawing a front lower flap dead point f3, a front first flap circular pendulum side point f4 and a front third flap circular pendulum side point e5 on a line segment f2e4, wherein a lower pocket high line segment f2f3 is 0.093 x, points f4 and e5 are one third of a line segment f3e4, and the point f4 is close to the point f 3; drawing perpendicular line segments f4j2 and e5j1 of a line segment f2e4 into a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point j1 is a front-lower-hem first left curvature point, a point j2 is a front-lower-hem second left curvature point, a line segment f4j2 is a lower-hem first high-position curvature line segment, a line segment e5j1 is a lower-hem second high-position curvature line segment, the line segment f4j2 is 0.013 x type, and the line segment e5j1 is 0.036 x type; drawing a front circular swing dead point e2 and a front circular swing point e3 on a line segment e4e1, wherein the point e3 is the midpoint of the line segment e4e2, and a circular swing incoming line segment e4e2 is 0.113 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment e3j of a line segment e4e1 into a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point j is a front downward swing circle high point, a line segment e3j is a bottom circle swing high line segment, and a line segment e3j is 0.027 x; the structures of the lapel, the circular pendulum and the bottom edge are formed by connecting points b, f2, f3, j2, j1, j, e2 and e by arcs.

Drawing the pockets on the front cut pieces, wherein the drawing comprises the following steps: drawing an anterior upper pocket left oblique point l3 and an anterior upper pocket right midpoint l2 on the line f1g4, wherein the upper pocket edge distance line f1l3 is 0.115 × type, and the upper pocket mouth large line l2l3 is 0.122 × type; drawing a vertical segment l4l3 of the line f1g4 toward the line f2d2, wherein the point l4 is the left wide point of the front upper pocket, and the upper pocket width line segment l4l3 is 0.025 × type; drawing a line segment ll1, wherein point l is the right point of the upper front pocket, point l1 is the right wide point of the upper front pocket, the length of the line segment ll1 is equal to the length of the line segment l4l3, and the line segment ll1 passes through the point l2 and is bisected by the point l 2; the straight line connects points l4 and l1 and points l3 and l, a line segment l4l1 is a lower end line segment of the upper pocket, a line segment l3l is an upper end line segment of the upper pocket, and the outline structure of the upper pocket is formed by a structure enclosed by points l3, l4, l1 and l.

The drawing of the dart of the front cut comprises the following steps: a line segment 1i parallel to the line segment f2e4 is drawn from the center of the line segment l4l1 at the lower end of the upper pocket toward the line segment f2d2, the point 1 is at the midpoint of the line segment l4l1, the point i is the point where the upper point of the prothorax is omitted, and the length of the line segment 1i is 5.0 cm; extending segment 1i to point i3 and intersecting segment f2d2 at point 2, ii3 being 0.244 × type; an anterior chest left-saving point i1 and an anterior chest right-saving point i2 are drawn on the line segment f2d2, the length of the line segment 2i1 is equal to the length of the line segment 2i2 is equal to 0.5cm, and a straight-line connecting point i, i1, i3 and i2 form an anterior straight waist dart structure.

Drawing the lower pocket of the front cut piece, comprising the following steps: drawing a parallel line segment i4h3 of the line segment f2d2 by passing through a point i3, wherein the point i4 is a left position point of the lower pocket, the point h3 is a right wide point of the lower pocket, a large line segment i4h3 of the lower pocket is 0.172 x, and the length of a line segment i3i4 is 2.0 cm; drawing a vertical line segment h3h2 of the line segment i4h3 towards the line segment f2d2, wherein a point h2 is a lower pocket right warping point, and a lower pocket right warping line segment h3h2 is 0.5 cm; a straight line connecting point h2i4 is used for forming a lower pocket upper flat line; a parallel line segment of a line segment h3h2 is drawn from a point i4 to the bottom edge of the front garment piece as a lower pocket width line segment, the lower pocket width line segment is 5.5cm, a parallel line segment of a line segment h2i4 is drawn from the bottom end point of the lower pocket width line segment as a lower pocket lower flat line, the length of the lower pocket lower flat line is equal to the length of an upper flat line of the lower pocket, an extension line segment h3h2 intersects with the end point of the lower pocket lower flat line, and two corners of the lower pocket lower end are of a round corner structure.

The drawing of the front cut piece armhole dart comprises the following steps: drawing an anterior lumbar dart sharp point h4 on a lower pocket upper flat line h2i4, wherein a line segment h2h4 is 2.0cm, forming an armhole dart center line by using straight connecting points g4 and h4 and intersecting a line segment f2d3 at a point 3, drawing an anterior lumbar dart left point h1 and an anterior lumbar right point h on a line segment f2d3, wherein the length of the line segment 3h1 is 0.5cm, and the length of the line segment 3h is 1.5 cm; the width of the armhole base province is taken as the width of the upper end of the armhole province channel, and the armhole province channel structure is formed by straight line connecting points g4, h1, h4, h and g 3.

The drawing of the structure in the back comprises the following steps: drawing a rectangle p1rsm, extending a line segment ms from a point s to a rear lower garment length point v, wherein the point p1 is a rear chest width point, the point r is a rear left waist side point, the point s is a rear right waist side point, the point m is a rear upper garment length point, a rear garment width line segment mp1 is 0.25 multiplied, a rear garment length line segment mv is 0.47 multiplied, and a waist section line segment ms is 0.276 multiplied; a rear right waist closing point s1 is drawn on the line segment rs, a line segment vv1 which is on the same side as the line segment ss1 and is parallel to the line segment ss1 is drawn from the point v, the point v1 is a rear lower swing closing point, a back middle waist section closing line segment ss1 is 0.028 multiplied, and the length of the line segment vv1 is 0.042 multiplied; drawing a back middle point o on the line segment ms, wherein the back middle salient point mo is 0.161 multiplied by type; the middle structure is formed by connecting m, o, s1 and v1 by arcs.

Drawing the back collar pit structure, comprising: drawing a rear first collar point m1, a rear second collar point m2 and a rear third collar point m3 on a line segment mp1, wherein a rear transverse collar line segment mm3 is 0.094 x, points m1 and m2 are trisection points of a line segment mm3, and point m2 is close to point m 3; drawing a back collar depth point n on the line segment ms, wherein a back straight collar line segment mn is 0.025 multiplied by type; from the points m1 and m2, respectively, a segment of a perpendicular line of the line segment mm3 is drawn to a rear first collar curvature point n1 and a rear second collar curvature point n2, wherein a rear first collar curvature line segment m1n1 is 0.024 × type, and a rear second collar curvature line segment m2n2 is 0.023 × type; the rear neck nest structure is formed by connecting m3, n2, n1 and n by arcs respectively.

The drawing of the shoulder structure comprises the following steps: drawing a back shoulder width point p2 on a line segment p1r, wherein the shoulder fall degree line segment p1p2 is 0.066 × type; drawing a middle point p of the line segment p1m3 and drawing a vertical line segment pp3, wherein the point p is a back shoulder middle point, the point p3 is a back shoulder lower point, and the shoulder center line pp3 is 0.037 x; the shoulder structure is formed by connecting points p2, p3 and m3 through arcs.

The drawing of the rear armhole structure comprises the following steps: drawing a first point q of the back armhole depth on the line segment p1r, wherein the back armhole depth line segment p2q is 0.166 multiplied type; drawing a segment perpendicular to the line segment p1r from the point q to the line segment ms to a second point q1 of posterior armhole depth, wherein the line segment qq1 is 0.6cm, and connecting the points p2 and q1 by straight lines to form a posterior armhole structure.

The drawing of the side seam structure of the back garment piece comprises the following steps: drawing an extension line segment of the line segment p1r from the point r to a back clothes swinging point u, wherein the line segment ru is 0.191 multiplied by the number; drawing a midpoint t of the line ru, wherein the point t is a posterior hip side point, drawing a perpendicular line segment from the point t to the line sv to a posterior hip convergence point t1, and drawing an outer curvature line segment tt1 which is 0.018 × type; a rear left waist contraction point r1 is drawn on the line segment rs, and the length of the outer waist section contraction line segment rr1 is equal to the length of the line segment vv 1; and arc connecting points q, r1, t1 and u form a rear garment piece side seam structure.

Preferably, the preparation of the front panel further comprises: drawing the buckling points of the front garment piece; the drawing of the front cut piece buckling point comprises the following steps: a front lower snap position j3 and a front upper snap position j4 are drawn, the point j4 is on the line segment f2d2, the point j3 is in the rectangle f2e4e1d2, the line segment j3j4 is parallel to the line segment f2e4, and the line segment j3j4 is 0.11 × type.

Preferably, seams are placed on the basis of the wool pattern of the front and rear panels.

Preferably, the hems of the front garment piece and the back garment piece are folded by 4.0cm, a back slit structure is reserved at the lower part of the back middle structure of the back garment piece, the slit width is 4.0cm, and 1.0cm of sewing heads are sewn on the rest parts of the front garment piece and the back garment piece.

The method for manufacturing the European style suit body for men solves the problem that the suit manufactured by the existing man suit manufacturing method is not suitable, and has the following advantages that:

according to the European style structure of the man's wear manufactured by the method, the neckline is open, the shoulder structure is bow-back, the armhole structure is egg-shell, the side seam is stiff and straight next to the skin, the lapel is full and round, the European style plate structure can be accurately expressed according to the size design, the stiffness is high, and the drawing and cutting efficiency is high.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic view showing the structure of front and rear panels of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a first structural diagram of a front garment piece of the invention.

Fig. 3 is a second structural diagram of a front garment piece of the invention.

Fig. 4 is a schematic view showing the structure of a rear panel of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing the top-stitching of the front and back garment pieces of the invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Example 1

A method for making a western-style suit body for men, as shown in figures 1-3, comprises: the front and rear panels are made in the size of 170/90A (size/type, height of human body, and bust of human body) for men's clothing.

The preparation of the front panel, see fig. 2-3, comprises:

(1) drawing of basic rectangular structure of front cut piece

A rectangle f2e4e1d2 is drawn, a point f2 is an anterior-medial waist point, a point e4 is an anterior-medial garment length point, a point e1 is an anterior sole flat point, a point d2 is an anterior waist side point, a line segment f2d2 is a line segment e4e1, 0.475 × 90cm is 42.75cm, and a line segment f2e4 is a line segment d2e1, 0.216 × 170cm is 36.72 cm.

Drawing a rectangle b4g4db5, a point b4 is an anterior shoulder width point, a point g4 is an anterior arm hole left-saving point, a point d is an anterior chest circumference side point, a point b5 is an anterior chest width point, points d and b5 are on an extension line of a line segment e1d2, the point d is between points d2 and b5, line segments b4b5, g4d, f2d2 and e4e1 are on the same side of a line segment b5e1, the line segment dd2 is 0.224 × 90cm 20.16cm, the line segment b5d is 0.214 × 90cm 19.26cm, and the line segment b4b5 is 0. d × 0.173 × 90 cm.

In the drawing rectangle af1g4a5, a point a is an upper garment length point, a point f1 is a front lapel vertical point, a point a5 is a front shoulder side point, a line segment b4g4 is on the line segment g4a5, a line segment a5g4 is the line segment af1, the line segment aa5 is the line segment f1g4, and the line segment aa5 is the line segment f1g4, the line segment f 316 x 90cm is the line segment f 0.316 x 90cm 28.44 cm.

(2) Drawing of neckline and shoulder structure of front garment piece

The neckline structure of the front garment piece is a ship bottom arc line, and the shoulder structure of the front garment piece is an arch back curve. And drawing a front corner point b on the line af1, wherein the neckline deep line ab is 0.098 × 90cm and 8.82 cm. A first front collar point a1, a second front collar point a2, a third front collar point a3, and a front shoulder midpoint a4 are plotted on a line segment aa5, and from points a1, a2, and a4, a segment perpendicular to line segment aa5 is drawn into rectangle af1g4a5 to front collar first curvature point b1, front collar second curvature point b2, and front shoulder lower point b3, respectively, front collar width line segment aa3 is 0.171 × 90cm — 15.39cm, points a1 and a2 are at one third of line segment aa3 and point a1 is close to point a, point a4 is a midpoint of line segment a3a5, front collar first curvature line segment a1b1 is 0.086 × 0196 cm — 0.0197.0197 × 0196 cm — 0.073 cm — 0.079 cm — 0.3 cm — 0.8 cm. The front panel neckline structure is formed by connecting points a3, b2, b1 and b by arcs respectively, and the front panel shoulder structure is formed by connecting points a3, b3 and b4 by arcs respectively.

(3) Drawing of front cut piece armhole

The front cut piece has an armhole structure of an eggshell shape, and is drawn on the basis of a rectangle b4g4db 5. A line segment b4g4 is used as an armhole depth line segment, trisecting points c and c1 are drawn on the line segment, the point c is close to the point b4, perpendicular line segments cc4 and c1c5 of the line segment b4g4 are drawn from the point c and the point c1 to the outside of a rectangle b4g4db5 respectively, the point c is a first front armhole point, the point c1 is a second front armhole point, the point c4 is a first curvature point of the front armhole, the point c5 is a second curvature point of the front armhole, the line segment cc4 is a first armhole curvature line segment, the line segment c1c5 is a second armhole curvature line segment, the line segment 4 is 0.035 × 90cm ═ 3.15cm, and the line segment c1c5 is 0.7 × 0.057 × 90cm ═ 0.055.13 cm. And drawing an anterior armhole warped side point c3 on the line segment db5, wherein the armhole warped side high line segment dc3 is 0.066 × 90cm is 5.94 cm. From the point c3, a vertical line segment is drawn into the rectangle b4g4db5 to the front armhole warping point c2, and the armhole warping side line segment c2c3 is 0.081 × 90cm is 7.29 cm. The connecting point c2 and the point g4 form an armhole warped side oblique line, a perpendicular bisector segment g1g2 of the segment c2g4 is drawn towards the segment g4d, the point g1 is on the segment c2g4, the point g1 is a right perpendicular point of the anterior armhole, the point g2 is a right curvature point of the anterior armhole, and the segment g1g2 is 0.014 × 90cm is 1.26 cm. An anterior arm cuff base right point g3 is drawn on the line segment g4d, and the arm cuff base width g4g3 is 0.011 × 90cm is 0.99 cm. The front garment arm hole structure is formed by connecting points b4, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2 and c2 by arcs respectively.

(4) Drawing of front cut piece side seam

The line df1 is defined as the chest width line, and the chest width line df 1-b 5b4+ aa 5-15.57 + 28.44-44.01 cm. The line g4d is drawn with the point d1 of the chest circumference, and the right line dd1 of the right chest circumference is 0.076 × 90cm is 6.84 cm. A front waist circumference point d3 is drawn on the line segment f2d2, and the front waist circumference line segment d2d3 is 0.061 × 90cm is 5.49 cm. And drawing a front side swing point e on a line segment e1d2, wherein an edge warping line ee1 of the bottom edge of the front garment piece is 0.047 x 90cm is 4.23 cm. A segment d2e 4e1d2 is drawn on the segment d2e to draw a vertical bisector d4d5, a point d4 is on the segment d2e, a point d4 is a front hip side point, a point d5 is a front hip maximum point, and the segment d4d5 is 0.025 × 90cm is 2.25 cm. The front garment piece side seam structure is formed by connecting points c2, d1, d3, d5 and e by micro-arc lines respectively.

(5) Drawing of lapel, circular hem and bottom edge of front cut piece

An extension line of the line segment f1d is drawn to the front entrance point f, the point f is close to the point f1, and the front roll curvature line segment f1f is 0.5 cm. A front lower flap dead point f3, a front first flap circular pendulum side point f4 and a front third flap circular pendulum side point e5 are drawn on a line segment f2e4, a lower pocket high line segment f2f3 is 0.093 × 90cm is 8.37cm, points f4 and e5 are one third of a line segment f3e4, and a point f4 is close to a point f 3. Drawing perpendicular line segments f4j2 and e5j1 of a line segment f2e4 into a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point j1 is a front-lower first left curvature point, a point j2 is a front-lower second left curvature point, a line segment f4j2 is a lower first high-position curvature line segment, a line segment e5j1 is a lower second high-position curvature line segment, the line segment f4j2 is 0.013 × 90cm is 1.17cm, and the line segment e5j1 is 0.036 × 90cm is 3.24 cm. A front circular swing point e2 and a front circular swing point e3 are drawn on the line segment e4e1, the point e3 is the midpoint of the line segment e4e2, and the circular swing line segment e4e2 is 0.113 × 90cm × 10.17 cm. A perpendicular line segment e3j of the line segment e4e1 is drawn in the rectangle f2e4e1d2, the point j is a front downward swing circle high point, the line segment e3j is a bottom circle swing high line segment, and the line segment e3j is 0.027 × 90cm is 2.43 cm. The structures of the lapel, the circular pendulum and the bottom edge are formed by connecting points b, f2, f3, j2, j1, j, e2 and e by arcs.

(6) Drawing of pockets on front cut pieces

An anterior upper pocket left oblique point l3 and an anterior upper pocket right midpoint l2 are drawn on the line f1g4, the upper pocket edge distance line f1l3 is 0.115 × 90cm is 10.35cm, and the upper pocket large line l2l3 is 0.122 × 90cm is 10.98 cm. A vertical segment l4l3 of the line segment f1g4 is drawn toward the line segment f2d2, the point l4 is the left wide point of the front upper pocket, and the upper pocket width line segment l4l3 is 0.025 × 90cm and 2.25 cm. A line segment ll1 is drawn, point l is the right point of the upper anterior pocket, point l1 is the right wide point of the upper anterior pocket, the length of line segment ll1 is equal to the length of line segment l4l3, and line segment ll1 crosses point l2 and is bisected by point l2, i.e., line segment ll2 is equal to l2l 1. The straight line connects points l4 and l1 and points l3 and l, a line segment l4l1 is a lower end line segment of the upper pocket, a line segment l3l is an upper end line segment of the upper pocket, and the outline structure of the upper pocket is formed by a structure enclosed by four points l3, l4, l1 and l.

(7) Drawing of dart of front cut piece

The dart of the front garment piece is divided into a straight waist dart (dart on the left of the front garment piece) and an armhole dart (dart on the right of the front garment piece). A line segment 1i parallel to the line segment f2e4 is drawn from the center of the upper-pocket lower-end line segment l4l1 toward the line segment f2d2, a point 1 is on the line segment l4l1, the point i is the point of the upper point of the chest, and the length of the line segment 1i is 5.0 cm. Extending line segment 1i to point i3 and intersecting line segment f2d2 at point 2, ii3 is 0.244 × 90cm is 21.96 cm. An anterior chest left-saving point i1 and an anterior chest right-saving point i2 are drawn on the line segment f2d2, the length of the line segment 2i1 is equal to the length of the line segment 2i2 is equal to 0.5cm, and a straight-line connecting point i, i1, i3 and i2 form an anterior straight waist dart structure.

(8) Drawing of lower pocket of front cut piece

A parallel line segment i4h3 of the line segment f2d2 is drawn through a point i3, a point i4 is a left position point of the lower pocket, a point h3 is a right width point of the lower pocket, the length of the line segment i3i4 is 2.0cm, and a large line segment i4h3 of the lower pocket is 0.172 × 90cm is 15.48 cm. A vertical segment h3h2 of the line segment i4h3 is drawn towards the line segment f2d2, the point h2 is the lower pocket right-warping point, and the lower pocket right-warping line segment h3h2 is 0.5 cm. The lower pocket upper flat line is formed by straight connecting points h2i4, the lower pocket width line segment is 5.5cm, a parallel line segment of a line segment h3h2 is drawn from the point i4 to the bottom edge of the front garment piece to be used as a lower pocket width line segment, a parallel line segment of a line segment h2i4 is drawn from the bottom end point of the lower pocket width line segment to be used as a lower pocket lower flat line, the length of the lower pocket lower flat line is equal to the length of the lower pocket upper flat line, the extending line segment h3h2 is intersected with the end point of the lower pocket lower flat line, and two corners of the lower end of the lower pocket are drawn to be a round corner structure.

(9) Drawing of armhole dart of front cut piece

An anterior lumbar dart sharp point h4 is drawn on a lower pocket upper flat line h2i4, a line segment h2h4 is 2.0cm, an armhole dart center line is formed by straight connecting points g4 and h4 and intersects a waist line (a line segment f2d3) at a point 3, an anterior lumbar left point h1 and an anterior lumbar right point h are drawn on a line segment f2d3, the length of the line segment 3h1 is 0.5cm, and the length of the line segment 3h is 1.5 cm. The width of the armhole base province is taken as the width of the upper end of the armhole province channel, and the armhole province channel structure is formed by straight line connecting points g4, h1, h4, h and g 3.

(10) Drawing of front cut piece buckling point

An anterior lower snap point j3 and an anterior upper snap point j4 are drawn, a line segment j3j4 is a central position determining line (central axis) of the button (or button hole), a point j4 is located on a line segment f2d2, a line segment j3j4 is parallel to a line segment f2e4, and a line segment j3j4 is 0.11 × 90cm is 9.9 cm.

The preparation of the rear panel, see fig. 4, includes:

(1) drawing of structures in the back

Drawing a rectangle p1rsm, extending a line segment ms from a point s to a rear lower garment length point v, the point p1 being a rear chest width point, the point r being a rear left waist side point, the point s being a rear right waist side point, the point m being a rear upper garment length point, a rear garment width line segment mp1 being 0.25 × 90cm being 22.5cm, a rear garment length line segment mv being 0.47 × 170cm being 79.9cm, a waist section line segment ms being 0.276 × 170cm being 46.92 cm.

A rear right waist closing point s1 is drawn on the line segment rs, and a line segment vv1 parallel to the line segment ss1 is drawn from the point v on the same side as the line segment ss1, the point v1 is a rear lower swing point, the back middle waist closing line segment ss1 is 0.028 × 90cm is 2.52cm, and the length of the line segment vv1 is 0.042 × 90cm is 3.78 cm. The back middle point o is drawn on the line segment ms, and the back middle salient point mo is 0.161 × 90cm is 14.49 cm. The middle structure is formed by connecting m, o, s1 and v1 by arcs.

(2) Drawing of back collar pit structure

A rear first collar point m1, a rear second collar point m2 and a rear third collar point m3 are drawn on a line mp1, a rear transverse collar line mm3 is 0.094 × 90cm is 8.46cm, points m1 and m2 are trisecting points of a line mm3, and point m2 is close to a point m 3. And drawing a back collar depth point n on the line segment ms, wherein a back straight collar line segment mn is 0.025 × 90cm is 2.25 cm. From the points m1 and m2, respectively, a segment perpendicular to the line segment mm3 is drawn to a first rear neck opening curvature point n1 and a second rear neck opening curvature point n2, the first rear neck opening curvature line segment m1n1 being 0.024 × 90cm being 2.16cm, and the second rear neck opening curvature line segment m2n2 being 0.023 × 90cm being 2.07 cm. The rear neck nest structure is formed by connecting m3, n2, n1 and n by arcs respectively.

(3) Drawing of shoulder structures

A back shoulder width point p2 is drawn on the line segment p1r, and the shoulder fall degree line segment p1p2 is 0.066 × 90cm × 5.94 cm. A center point p is drawn on the line segment p1m3, the point p being a rear shoulder center point, the point p3 being a rear shoulder lower point, and the shoulder center line pp3 being 0.037 × 90cm and 3.33cm, and a vertical line segment pp 3. The shoulder structure is formed by connecting points p2, p3 and m3 through arcs.

(4) Drawing of posterior armhole structure

The first point q of the back armhole depth is drawn on the line segment p1r, and the line segment p2q of the back armhole depth is 0.166 × 90cm is 14.94 cm. Drawing a segment perpendicular to the line segment p1r from the point q to the line segment ms to a second point q1 of posterior armhole depth, wherein the line segment qq1 is 0.6cm, and connecting the points p2 and q1 by straight lines to form a posterior armhole structure.

(5) Drawing of side seam structure of rear cut piece

An extension line segment of the line segment p1r is drawn from the point r to the point u of the rear garment hem, and the line segment ru is 0.191 × 170cm, 32.47 cm. A midpoint t of the line ru is drawn, a point t is a posterior hip side point, and a perpendicular line is drawn from the point t toward the line sv to a posterior hip convergence point t1, and the outer curvature line tt1 ═ 0.018 × 90cm ═ 1.62 cm. A rear left waist convergence point r1 is drawn on the line segment rs, and an outer waist section convergence line segment rr1 is the length of the line segment vv 1. And arc connecting points q, r1, t1 and u form a rear garment piece side seam structure.

The rear panel is composed of a structure enclosed by points m3, p3, p2, q1, q, r1, t1, u, v1, s1, o, n1 and n 2.

As shown in figure 5, the seam placing of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece of the invention is carried out on the basis of a hairlike plate, 1.0cm seam heads are placed in the neckline, the shoulder part, the armhole, the side seam, the lapel, the circular hem and the back of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece respectively, 4.0cm folded edges are placed at the bottom edges of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece, a back slit structure is left at the position of 20cm at the lower end of the back, and the slit width is 4.0 cm.

While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.

Claims

1. A method for making a men's European style suit body, which is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps: manufacturing a front garment piece and a rear garment piece according to the size of the garment, wherein the size represents the height of a human body, and the type represents the chest circumference of the human body; wherein, the preparation of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a basic rectangular structure of the front cut piece, drawing neckline and shoulder structures of the front cut piece, drawing armholes of the front cut piece, drawing side seams of the front cut piece, lapel of the front cut piece, drawing a circular hem and a bottom edge, drawing an upper pocket of the front cut piece, drawing a dart of the front cut piece, drawing a lower pocket of the front cut piece and drawing an armhole dart of the front cut piece; the preparation of the back cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a back-middle structure, drawing a back collar pit structure, drawing a shoulder structure, drawing a back armhole structure and drawing a side seam structure of a back cut piece;

the drawing of the basic rectangular structure of the front cut piece comprises the following steps:

drawing a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point f2 is an anterior-medial waist point, a point e4 is an anterior-medial garment length point, a point e1 is an anterior fundus flat point, a point d2 is an anterior waist side point, a line segment f2d2 is equal to a line segment e4e1 which is 0.475 × type, and a line segment f2e4 is equal to a line segment d2e1 which is 0.216 × type;

drawing a rectangle b4g4db5, where a point b4 is an anterior shoulder width point, a point g4 is an anterior arm hole left-saving point, a point d is an anterior chest circumference side point, a point b5 is an anterior chest width point, points d and b5 are on an extension line of a line segment e1d2, and a point d is between points d2 and b5, line segments b4b5, g4d, f2d2 and e4e1 are on the same side of a line segment b5e1, a line segment dd2 is 0.224 × type, a line segment b5d is 0.214 × type, and a line segment b4b5 is 0.173 × type;

drawing a rectangle af1g4a5, wherein a is a coat length point, f1 is a front lapel vertical point, a5 is a front shoulder side point, a b4g4 is on the line segment g4a5, a line segment a5g4 is the line segment af1, and a line segment aa5 is the line segment f1g4, respectively, the line segment af1 and the line segment f4 are 0.316 x;

the drawing of the neckline and shoulder structures of the front garment piece comprises the following steps:

drawing a front corner point b on the line af1, wherein the neckline deep line ab is 0.098 multiplied; drawing a first front collar point a1, a second front collar point a2, a third front collar point a3 and a front shoulder midpoint a4 on a line segment aa5, and drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment aa5 from points a1, a2 and a4 into a rectangle af1g4a5 to a front collar first curvature point b1, a front collar second curvature point b2 and a front shoulder lower point b3 respectively, wherein a front collar wide line segment aa3 is 0.171 × type, points a1 and a2 are one third of the line segment aa3, the point a1 is close to the point a, the point a4 is the midpoint of a3a5, a front collar first curvature line segment a1b1 is 0.086 × type, a front collar second curvature line segment a2b2 is 0.073 × type, and a 0194 a 01957 × 3 is 0.57 × type; respectively connecting points a3, b2, b1 and b by arcs to form a front garment piece neckline structure, and respectively connecting points a3, b3 and b4 by arcs to form a front garment piece shoulder structure;

drawing armholes of the front cut pieces, wherein the drawing armholes comprise:

taking a line segment b4g4 as an armhole deep line segment, drawing trisection points c and c1 on the line segment, wherein the point c is close to a point b4, drawing perpendicular line segments cc4 and c1c5 of the line segment b4g4 from the points c and c1 to the outside of a rectangle b4g4db5 respectively, the point c is a first front armhole point, the point c1 is a second front armhole point, the point c4 is a first curvature point of the front armhole, the point c5 is a second curvature point of the front armhole, the line segment cc4 is a first armhole curvature line segment, the line segment c1c5 is a second armhole curvature line segment, the line segment cc4 is 0.035 x, and the line segment c1c5 is 0.057 x; drawing an anterior armhole warping side point c3 on the line segment db5, wherein an armhole warping side high line segment dc3 is 0.066 multiplied by type; drawing a vertical line segment from the point c3 to the inside of the rectangle b4g4db5 to a front armhole warping point c2, wherein an armhole warping side line segment c2c3 is 0.081 multiplied; connecting point c2 and point g4 form an armhole warped side oblique line, a perpendicular bisector line segment g1g2 of the line segment c2g4 is drawn towards the line segment g4d, point g1 is on the line segment c2g4, point g1 is a right perpendicular point of the front armhole, point g2 is a right curvature point of the front armhole, and the line segment g1g2 is 0.014 multiplied; drawing a right anterior armhole base dart point g3 on the line segment g4d, wherein the width g4g3 of the armhole base dart is 0.011X type; connecting points b4, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2 and c2 by arcs to form an arm hole structure of the front garment piece;

drawing the side seams of the front garment piece, comprising:

drawing a front chest circumference large point d1 on a line segment g4d by taking the line segment df1 as a chest circumference width line segment, wherein a closing line segment dd1 on the right side of the chest circumference is 0.076 multiplied; drawing a front waistline point d3 on the line segment f2d2, wherein the front waistline line segment d2d3 is 0.061 × type; drawing a front side swing point e on a line segment e1d2, wherein a warping line segment ee1 of the bottom edge of the front garment piece is 0.047 multiplied; drawing a vertical bisector d4d5 of the rectangle f2e4e1d2 on the line segment d2e, wherein the point d4 is on the line segment d2e, the point d4 is a front hip side point, the point d5 is a front hip maximum point, and the line segment d4d5 is 0.025 x; connecting points c2, d1, d3, d5 and e by arcs respectively to form a front garment piece side seam structure;

preceding garment piece is refuted drawing on head, circle pendulum and base, contains:

drawing an extension line segment of the line segment f1d to a front lapel point f, wherein the point f is close to a point f1, and a front lapel curvature line segment f1f is 0.5 cm; drawing a front lower flap dead point f3, a front first flap circular pendulum side point f4 and a front third flap circular pendulum side point e5 on a line segment f2e4, wherein a lower pocket high line segment f2f3 is 0.093 x, points f4 and e5 are one third of a line segment f3e4, and the point f4 is close to the point f 3; drawing perpendicular line segments f4j2 and e5j1 of a line segment f2e4 into a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point j1 is a front-lower-hem first left curvature point, a point j2 is a front-lower-hem second left curvature point, a line segment f4j2 is a lower-hem first high-position curvature line segment, a line segment e5j1 is a lower-hem second high-position curvature line segment, the line segment f4j2 is 0.013 x type, and the line segment e5j1 is 0.036 x type; drawing a front circular swing dead point e2 and a front circular swing point e3 on a line segment e4e1, wherein the point e3 is the midpoint of the line segment e4e2, and a circular swing incoming line segment e4e2 is 0.113 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment e3j of a line segment e4e1 into a rectangle f2e4e1d2, wherein a point j is a front downward swing circle high point, a line segment e3j is a bottom circle swing high line segment, and a line segment e3j is 0.027 x; connecting points b, f2, f3, j2, j1, j, e2 and e by arcs respectively to form a structure of a lapel, a circular pendulum and a bottom edge;

drawing the pockets on the front cut pieces, wherein the drawing comprises the following steps:

drawing an anterior upper pocket left oblique point l3 and an anterior upper pocket right midpoint l2 on the line f1g4, wherein the upper pocket edge distance line f1l3 is 0.115 × type, and the upper pocket mouth large line l2l3 is 0.122 × type; drawing a vertical segment l4l3 of the line f1g4 toward the line f2d2, wherein the point l4 is the left wide point of the front upper pocket, and the upper pocket width line segment l4l3 is 0.025 × type; drawing a line segment ll1, wherein point l is the right point of the upper front pocket, point l1 is the right wide point of the upper front pocket, the length of the line segment ll1 is equal to the length of the line segment l4l3, and the line segment ll1 passes through the point l2 and is bisected by the point l 2; straight line connecting points l4 and l1 and points l3 and l, a line segment l4l1 is a lower end line segment of the upper pocket, a line segment l3l is an upper end line segment of the upper pocket, and the outline structure of the upper pocket is formed by a structure enclosed by points l3, l4, l1 and l;

the drawing of the dart of the front cut comprises the following steps:

a line segment 1i parallel to the line segment f2e4 is drawn from the center of the line segment l4l1 at the lower end of the upper pocket toward the line segment f2d2, the point 1 is at the midpoint of the line segment l4l1, the point i is the point where the upper point of the prothorax is omitted, and the length of the line segment 1i is 5.0 cm; extending segment 1i to point i3 and intersecting segment f2d2 at point 2, ii3 being 0.244 × type; drawing an anterior chest left-saving point i1 and an anterior chest right-saving point i2 on a line segment f2d2, wherein the length of a line segment 2i1 is 0.5cm equal to the length of a line segment 2i2, and straight line connecting points i, i1, i3 and i2 form an anterior straight waist-saving way structure;

drawing the lower pocket of the front cut piece, comprising the following steps:

drawing a parallel line segment i4h3 of the line segment f2d2 by passing through a point i3, wherein the point i4 is a left position point of the lower pocket, the point h3 is a right wide point of the lower pocket, a large line segment i4h3 of the lower pocket is 0.172 x, and the length of a line segment i3i4 is 2.0 cm; drawing a vertical line segment h3h2 of the line segment i4h3 towards the line segment f2d2, wherein a point h2 is a lower pocket right warping point, and a lower pocket right warping line segment h3h2 is 0.5 cm; a straight line connecting point h2i4 is used for forming a lower pocket upper flat line; drawing a parallel line segment of a line segment h3h2 from a point i4 to the bottom edge of the front garment piece as a lower pocket width line segment, wherein the lower pocket width line segment is 5.5cm, drawing a parallel line segment of a line segment h2i4 from the bottom end point of the lower pocket width line segment as a lower pocket flat line, the length of the lower pocket flat line is equal to the length of an upper flat line of the lower pocket, the extension line segment h3h2 is intersected with the end point of the lower pocket flat line, and two corners of the lower end of the lower pocket are in a fillet structure;

the drawing of the front cut piece armhole dart comprises the following steps:

drawing an anterior lumbar dart sharp point h4 on a lower pocket upper flat line h2i4, wherein a line segment h2h4 is 2.0cm, forming an armhole dart center line by using straight connecting points g4 and h4 and intersecting a line segment f2d3 at a point 3, drawing an anterior lumbar dart left point h1 and an anterior lumbar right point h on a line segment f2d3, wherein the length of the line segment 3h1 is 0.5cm, and the length of the line segment 3h is 1.5 cm; taking the width of the armhole base as the width of the upper end of the armhole dart, and forming an armhole dart structure by using straight line connecting points g4, h1, h4, h and g 3;

the drawing of the structure in the back comprises the following steps:

drawing a rectangle p1rsm, extending a line segment ms from a point s to a rear lower garment length point v, wherein the point p1 is a rear chest width point, the point r is a rear left waist side point, the point s is a rear right waist side point, the point m is a rear upper garment length point, a rear garment width line segment mp1 is 0.25 multiplied, a rear garment length line segment mv is 0.47 multiplied, and a waist section line segment ms is 0.276 multiplied;

a rear right waist closing point s1 is drawn on the line segment rs, a line segment vv1 which is on the same side as the line segment ss1 and is parallel to the line segment ss1 is drawn from the point v, the point v1 is a rear lower swing closing point, a back middle waist section closing line segment ss1 is 0.028 multiplied, and the length of the line segment vv1 is 0.042 multiplied; drawing a back middle point o on the line segment ms, wherein the back middle salient point mo is 0.161 multiplied by type; connecting points m, o, s1 and v1 by arcs to form a middle-back structure;

drawing the back collar pit structure, comprising:

drawing a rear first collar point m1, a rear second collar point m2 and a rear third collar point m3 on a line segment mp1, wherein a rear transverse collar line segment mm3 is 0.094 x, points m1 and m2 are trisection points of a line segment mm3, and point m2 is close to point m 3; drawing a back collar depth point n on the line segment ms, wherein a back straight collar line segment mn is 0.025 multiplied by type; from the points m1 and m2, respectively, a segment of a perpendicular line of the line segment mm3 is drawn to a rear first collar curvature point n1 and a rear second collar curvature point n2, wherein a rear first collar curvature line segment m1n1 is 0.024 × type, and a rear second collar curvature line segment m2n2 is 0.023 × type; connecting the points m3, n2, n1 and n by arcs respectively to form a back neck pit structure;

the drawing of the shoulder structure comprises the following steps:

drawing a back shoulder width point p2 on a line segment p1r, wherein the shoulder fall degree line segment p1p2 is 0.066 × type; drawing a middle point p of the line segment p1m3 and drawing a vertical line segment pp3, wherein the point p is a back shoulder middle point, the point p3 is a back shoulder lower point, and the shoulder center line pp3 is 0.037 x; the shoulder structure is formed by connecting points p2, p3 and m3 through arcs;

the drawing of the rear armhole structure comprises the following steps:

drawing a first point q of the back armhole depth on the line segment p1r, wherein the back armhole depth line segment p2q is 0.166 multiplied type; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment p1r from the point q to a second point q1 with the depth of the rear armhole from the line segment ms, wherein the line segment qq1 is 0.6cm, and a rear armhole structure is formed by connecting points p2 and q1 by straight lines;

the drawing of the side seam structure of the back garment piece comprises the following steps:

drawing an extension line segment of the line segment p1r from the point r to a back clothes swinging point u, wherein the line segment ru is 0.191 multiplied by the number; drawing a midpoint t of the line ru, wherein the point t is a posterior hip side point, drawing a perpendicular line segment from the point t to the line sv to a posterior hip convergence point t1, and drawing an outer curvature line segment tt1 which is 0.018 × type; a rear left waist contraction point r1 is drawn on the line segment rs, and the length of the outer waist section contraction line segment rr1 is equal to the length of the line segment vv 1; and arc connecting points q, r1, t1 and u form a rear garment piece side seam structure.

2. The method of making a men's western style suit body according to claim 1, wherein the making of the front panel further comprises: drawing the buckling points of the front garment piece;

the drawing of the front cut piece buckling point comprises the following steps: a front lower snap position j3 and a front upper snap position j4 are drawn, the point j4 is on the line segment f2d2, the point j3 is in the rectangle f2e4e1d2, the line segment j3j4 is parallel to the line segment f2e4, and the line segment j3j4 is 0.11 × type.

3. The method of making a men's western style suit body according to claim 1, wherein the front and rear panels are sewn on the basis of the fur patterns.

4. The method for manufacturing the men's western style clothes with European style, according to claim 3, wherein the hems of the front and back panels are folded by 4.0cm, the lower part of the back middle structure of the back panel is provided with a back slit structure, the slit width is 4.0cm, and the other parts of the front and back panels are sewed by 1.0 cm.