CN113331517B - Method for dress drawing of female with eccentric lapel - Google Patents

Method for dress drawing of female with eccentric lapel Download PDF

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Publication number
CN113331517B
CN113331517B CN202110637631.4A CN202110637631A CN113331517B CN 113331517 B CN113331517 B CN 113331517B CN 202110637631 A CN202110637631 A CN 202110637631A CN 113331517 B CN113331517 B CN 113331517B
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line segment
point
type
line
points
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CN113331517A (en
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陈文强
陈海生
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Xijing University
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Xijing University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/18Cloth collars

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for drawing female dress with a deviated lapel, which comprises the steps of drawing front and back clothes pieces, sleeve piece structures, armpit pieces and side lower pieces. The front and rear garment pieces are of a connected structure, the collar shape of the front garment piece belongs to an asymmetric shape, the left collar structure is turned to the heel through the outer end of the left upper arm, and the right collar structure belongs to a normal collar shape of the suit. The sleeve piece structure comprises a large sleeve and a small sleeve, the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by adopting a merging method, and the drawing of the armpit piece and the side lower piece is also carried out by adopting a merging method. The front and back clothing pieces, sleeve piece structure, armpit piece and side lower piece of the partial lapel women's dress are all cut on the net sample plate. The female dress drawing with the deviated lapel is completed by adopting the method of connecting the collar, connecting the body and combining the body, the drawing step is simplified, and a new garment style is molded by adopting the asymmetric lapel style design.

Description

Method for dress drawing of female with eccentric lapel
Technical Field
The invention relates to a female dress drawing method, in particular to a female dress drawing method with an eccentric lapel.
Background
In the traditional lapel female dress drawing, most lapel drawings with symmetrical left and right clothes pieces are adopted, and the clothes length, chest circumference, sleeve length, front width, back width, shoulder width, waist section, waistline and hip circumference size including the collar circumference size are required to be used as drawing bases. The traditional drawing method needs too many specification parts, often causes mismatching of data and comfort level of human bodies and clothes, has various drawing steps and various calculation formulas, requires more fixed value data for detailed structures, and can cause that the structures of parts of women's clothes with different sizes, such as collar width, spider angle, pocket, front fly, slit and the like, are the same, and the method violates the scientific rule that the size of the clothes is large, large and small. The traditional collar drawing and the traditional collar drawing have the phenomenon of inconsistent length in the subsequent sewing procedure, because the convention calculation of the collar length of the front and rear garment pieces and the collar length is not well processed. Also, the drawing of the armholes and the garment pieces is a bad problem that the armholes and the eating amount of the armholes are not uniform, and great difficulty is brought to the subsequent sewing process.
In addition, in the front and rear garment piece drawing, the traditional front and rear garment pieces are made by a split drawing method, and the drawing causes repeated drawing of basic drawing lines, so that repeated labor is increased. The traditional lapel drawing is symmetrical, and the innovation of the garment modeling is not strong.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for drawing female with an offset lapel, which is completed by adopting a connecting collar, connecting body and combining method, simplifies drawing steps, and models new clothing style by adopting an asymmetric lapel style design.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a method for drawing female dress with a deviated head, which comprises the steps of drawing front and back clothes pieces, sleeve piece structures, armpit pieces and side lower pieces according to the size of the clothes, wherein the size represents the height of a human body, and the size represents the chest circumference of the human body.
Drawing of the front and rear panels comprises: drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein a point a is a rear collar upper point, a point b is a rear garment long point, a point c is a front garment long point, a point d is a front garment piece high point, a line segment ab=a line segment dc=0.6×number, and a line segment ad=a line segment bc=0.56×type; drawing a cut point e of the garment piece on the line segment ad, wherein the line segment ae=0.28×type, drawing a perpendicular line segment ee6 of the line segment ad from the point e into the rectangle abcd, wherein the line segment ee6 is a waist side line, the point e6 is a crotch point, and the waist side line ee 6=0.815×type; drawing a back transverse point b6, a back waist point b4 and a back vent point b3 on a line segment ab, wherein the line segment ab6 is a back transverse falling line segment, the line segment ab4 is a height line of waistline of the front and back garment pieces, the line segment b4b3 is a back garment piece vent height, the line segment ab6 = 0.147 x type, the line segment ab4 = 0.237 x number, and the line segment b4b3 = 0.22 x type; a parallel line segment of a line segment bc is drawn from a point b4 and is intersected with a line segment dc at a front middle buckling point c7, the line segment b4c7 is a waistline line segment, a rear garment piece waist receiving amount line segment b4b5 is drawn on the line segment b4c7, the point b5 is a rear waist receiving point, and the line segment b4b5=0.011×type; connecting points b6, b5 and b3 respectively by straight line segments to form a back center structure; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment ab from the points b3 and b to the outside of the rectangle abcd to a rear vent wide point b2 and a rear vent lower point b1 respectively, connecting the points b2 and b1 by straight lines, wherein the line segment b3b2=the line segment bb1=0.035×type for drawing the width of the rear vent; drawing a back neck point a2 on a line segment ad, drawing a back neck heel point a5 on a line segment ab, drawing perpendicular line segments of the line segments ab and ad from the point a5 and the point a2 respectively, and crossing the perpendicular line segments to a back neck lower point a3, wherein a back transverse opening line segment aa2 = line segment a5a3 = 0.086 x type, a back neck deep line segment aa5 = line segment a2a3 = 0.027 x type, and the back transverse opening line segment and the back neck deep line segment form a rectangle; drawing a third point a1 close to a point a5 on a line segment a5a3, wherein the point a1 is a rear collar tangent point; drawing an angular bisection line segment a3a4 of the angle a2a3a5, wherein the point a4 is a rear collar oblique point, the line segment a3a4=0.016×type, and connecting points a5, a1, a4 and a2 respectively by using arcs to form a rear collar radian structure; drawing a shoulder drop point e1 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment ee1 is a shoulder drop line, and the line segment ee1 = 0.052 x type; the passing point e1 is a parallel line ji of the line ad, the line e1j and the line e1i are the outer ends of the shoulders of the front and rear clothes pieces respectively, the point i is a front shoulder width point, the point j is a rear shoulder width point, the line e1j=0.047×type and the line e1i=0.053×type; drawing an armhole deep point e2 on a line segment ee6, wherein the armhole deep line segment ee2 = 0.19 x type; the passing point e2 is taken as a parallel line segment j1i1 of the line segment ad, the line segment j1i1 is a horizontal line of the depth of the armhole, the point i1 is a deep point of the front armhole, the point j1 is a deep point of the rear armhole, the line segment e2j1=0.079×type, and the line segment e2i1=0.09×type; connecting the jj1 and ii1 points by straight line segments to form a front armhole auxiliary lateral line; drawing points j6 and i6 on the line segments jj1 and ii1, wherein the point j6 is a rear armhole perpendicular point, the point i6 is a front armhole perpendicular point, vertical line segments j6j5 and i6i5 of the line segments jj1 and ii1 are respectively drawn towards the line segments ab and dc, the point j5 is a rear armhole curved point, the point i5 is a front armhole curved point, and the line segment j6j 5=i6i5=0.006×type; connecting points j, j5, j1, i5 and i1 respectively by using arcs to form a front armhole upper structure and a rear armhole upper structure; drawing an armpit deep point e3 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment ee3 is an armpit deep line segment, and the line segment ee 3=0.279×type; the passing point e3 is taken as a parallel line segment j2i2 of the line segment ad, the point i2 is a deep point at the front armpit, the point j2 is a deep point at the rear armpit, the line segment e3j2=0.107×type, and the line segment e3i2=0.114×type; line segment ee6 and line segment b4c7 intersect at waist point e4, line segment e4j3=0.13×type; drawing a front waist point i3 and a rear waist point j3 on a line segment b4c7, wherein the line segment e4i3=0.124×type; the arc lines are respectively connected with j1, j2 and j3 to form a back cut line, and the arc lines are respectively connected with i1, i2 and i3 to form a front cut line; drawing a hip point e5 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment e4e5 is the depth of the hip circumference, and the line segment e4e5=0.22×type; the passing point e5 is taken as a parallel line segment j4i4 of the line segment ad, the point i4 is the front hip point, the point j4 is the rear hip point, the line segment e5j4=0.117×type, and the line segment e5i4=0.124×type; connecting the j3, j4, e6, i4 and i3 points respectively by using straight line segments to form a side lower piece foot digging structure; drawing a front upper buckling point c6 and a front lower buckling point c8 on a line segment dc7 and a line segment c7c respectively, wherein the line segment c7c8=the line segment c7c6=0.095 x type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment dc to the outside of the rectangle abcd from points c6, c7 and c8 respectively to a front upper buckling outer point c5, a front middle buckling outer point c4 and a front lower buckling outer point c3, wherein the line segment c6c5=the line segment c7c4=the line segment c8c3=the 0.018 x type, and connecting points c5, c4 and c3 respectively by using the straight line segments to form a front garment piece front fly structure; drawing an angular bisection line segment cc1 of +.c8cb, wherein the point c1 is a front clothing pendulum dot, and the line segment cc1 = 0.21 x type; drawing a rear garment swinging point c2 on a line segment bc, wherein the line segment bc2=0.19×type, and connecting points c3, c1 and c2 respectively by using an arc line segment to form a front garment piece circular lower corner structure; drawing a front neck point d1 on a line segment ad, wherein a front transverse opening line segment dd1=0.083×type, and connecting points a2 and j and points d1 and i respectively by using straight line segments to form a front and rear garment piece shoulder structure; drawing an angle ad1f1 outside a rectangle abcd, wherein a point f1 is a lower middle point of a right rear collar, the value of the angle ad1f 1=0.7×type, and an angle side line segment d1f1=0.095×type, and the angle side line segment d1f 1=0.095×type is used for drawing the collar length; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment d1f1 to an upper point f in a right rear collar by the passing point f1, wherein the line segment f1f is the rear center width of the front right garment piece connecting collar, the line segment f1f and the line segment d1d are positioned on the same side of the line segment d1f1, and the line segment f1f=0.074×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment f1f to a right collar corner point f2 through the point f, wherein the line segment ff2 and the d1f1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f1f, and the line segment ff2 = 0.184 x type is used for drawing a collar outer edge structure of a front right garment piece connecting collar; drawing a line segment f2f3 through a point f2, wherein the point f3 is a right lapel point, the value of the angle ff2f3 is=1.321 multiplied by the type, and the line segment f2f3 is=0.035 multiplied by the type; drawing a line segment f3f4 through a point f3, wherein the point f4 is a right lapel point, the angle f2f3f4=0.9×type, the line segment f3f4= 0.0416 ×type, and connecting points f4 and c5 of the straight line segment form a lapel foundation line segment; a central vertical line segment f5f6 of a line segment f4c5 is made on a line segment f4c5 in a direction far away from the line segment dc, a point f5 is positioned on the line segment f4c5, the point f5 is a right drop point, the point f6 is a right drop point, f5f6=0.006×type, and the points f4, f6 and c5 are respectively connected by arcs to form a collar external port structure; connecting point i1 and point a with a straight line segment and extending to a lower middle point g1 in the left rear collar, wherein line segment i1g1=0.452×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment g1g of a line segment i1g1 through a point g1, wherein the line segments g1g and ab are positioned on two sides of the line segment i1g1, the point g is the upper middle point of the left rear collar, and the length of the line segment g1 g=the length of the line segment ff 1; drawing a value of < c6c5g4, wherein the value of < c6c5g 4=0.71×type, the point g4 is a left lapel point, and the line segment c5g4=0.275×type; drawing a middle vertical line segment g6g5 of a line segment c5g4, wherein a point g6 is positioned on the line segment c5g4, the point g6 is a left drop point, the point g5 is a left drop side point, the line segment g6g5=0.008×type, and the arc line segments are respectively connected with the points g4, g5 and c5 to form a left garment piece drop structure; drawing a value of < c5g4g3, a value of < c5g4g3 = 1.3 x type, wherein a line segment g4g3 and a line segment g6g5 are positioned on two sides of the line segment c5g4, a point g3 is a left port point, and the length of the line segment g4g3 = the length of the line segment f3f 4; drawing a value of < g4g3g2, a value of < g4g3g2 = 0.9 x type, wherein line segments g3g2 and c5g4 are positioned on two sides of a line segment g4g3, a point g2 is a left collar corner point, the length of the line segment g3g2 = the length of a line segment f3f2, and a left garment piece lapel structure is formed by connecting points g2 and g of straight line segments; the contour of the front and rear right half body panels is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, f6, f4, f3, f2, f1, d1, i5, i1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j1, j5, j, a2, a4, a 1; the contour of the front and rear left body panels is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2, g1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j 1.
Drawing of the sleeve sheet structure comprises: drawing a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein a point h6 is an upper sleeve left point, a point n is a lower sleeve left point, a point m2 is a lower sleeve right point, a point h2 is an upper sleeve right point, a line segment h6n=a line segment h2m2=0.375×number, a line segment h6h2=a line segment nm 2=0.418×type; drawing a small sleeve upper point h5, a large sleeve upper point h4, a large sleeve left side point h3, a large sleeve middle point h and a large sleeve right side point h1 on a line segment h6h2, wherein a large sleeve transverse line segment h6h5=0.088×type, a line segment h6h4=0.162×type, a line segment h2h=0.148×type, a line segment h2h1=0.095×type and a line segment h2h3=0.203×type; drawing an eighth arc point l4 of the small sleeve on the line segment h6n, wherein the vertical line segment h6 l4=0.129×type of the large sleeve; the passing points h5, h4, h3 and h1 respectively draw a perpendicular line segment h6h2 to a small sleeve seventh arc point l3, a large sleeve sixth arc point l2, a large sleeve fifth arc point l1 and a large sleeve fourth arc point l into a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein the line segment h5l3=0.136×type, h4l2=0.082×type, h3l1=0.017×type and h1l=0.018×type; drawing a first large sleeve point k2, a second large sleeve point k3, a third large sleeve point k4 and a fourth large sleeve point k5 on a line segment h2m2, wherein line segments h2k2=0.053×type, h2k3=0.091×type, h2k4=0.137×type and h2k5=0.16×type are arranged on the inner side of the large sleeve; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h2m2 to a third large sleeve arc point k, a second large sleeve arc point k1 and a first large sleeve arc point k6 in a rectangle h6nm2h2 through points k2, k3 and k4, wherein the line segment k2k=0.062 x type, the line segment k3k1=0.042 x type and the line segment k4k6=0.027 x type are transversely arranged at the inner side of the large sleeve; connecting points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k, k6 and k5 respectively by using arc sections to form a big-small sleeve structure; drawing a large sleeve elbow point m and a large sleeve opening point m1 on a line segment h2m2, wherein the line segment h2m=0.428×type at the inner side of the large sleeve body and the line segment m2m1=0.017×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h2m2 to a large sleeve elbow receiving point m6 from the passing point m to a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein the line segment mm6 = line segment m2m1; the arc segments are used for respectively connecting the points k5, m6 and m1 to form a large sleeve elbow inner bending structure; drawing a small sleeve elbow point n4 and a small sleeve opening point n2 on a line segment h6n, wherein the line segment h6n4=0.357×type and the line segment nn2=0.059×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h6n to the outside of the rectangle h6nm2h2 from the passing points n4 and n2 to a small sleeve elbow outer point n3 and a small sleeve external point n1, wherein the line segment n4n3=0.022×type and the line segment n2n1=0.107×type; connecting points l4, n3 and n1 respectively by using an arc section to form a small sleeve elbow inner bending structure; drawing a small sleeve left locus m4 on a line segment nm2, drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment nm2 into a rectangle h6nm2h2 through the line segment nm4 = 0.03 x type, and drawing a small sleeve left locus m5, m4m5 = 0.013 x type; extending a line segment n3n4 from a point n4 to a small sleeve elbow outer point n6, the line segment n4n6=0.142×type; connecting points l2, n6 and m5 respectively by using an arc section to form a small sleeve elbow bending structure; drawing a large cuff left point m3 on a line segment nm2, wherein the large cuff line segment m2m3=0.178×type; extending a line segment n3n6 from a point n6 to a large sleeve elbow outer point n5, the line segment n6n5=0.029×type; connecting points l2, n5 and m3 respectively by using an arc section to form a large sleeve elbow bending structure; the outline of the right sleeve sheet is composed of points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3; the left sleeve patch has a contour composed of points l4, l3, l2, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3.
Drawing of the underarm sheet comprising: drawing a line segment r5o4 and a vertical line segment oo3 thereof, wherein a point o3 is positioned on the line segment r5o4, a point r5 is a back waist base point, a point o4 is a front waist point, a point o is a front and back side midpoint, a point o3 is a front and back waist point, a line segment r5o4=0.176×type, a line segment r5o3=0.082×type, and a line segment oo3=0.188×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment r5o4 to a rear waist point r4 through the point r5, wherein the line segment r5r4 and the line segment oo3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment r5o4, and the line segment r5r4=0.012×type; drawing a lumbar support point o2 and a front and rear belly point o1 on a line segment oo3, wherein the line segment o3o2=0.016×type and the line segment oo1=0.056×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment r3o5 of the line segment oo3 through the point o1, wherein the point r3 and the point r4 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the point r3 is a rear belly point, the point o5 is a front belly point, the line segment o1r3=0.095×type, and the line segment o1o5=0.121×type; drawing line segments or2 and oy, wherein a point r2 is a rear-side sharp point, a point y is a front-side sharp point, the line segment or2 and the line segment o1r3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the line segment oy and the line segment o1o5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the value of +_o3or 2=1.67×type, the line segment or 2=0.113×type, the value of +_o3oy=1.59×type, and the line segment oy=0.1×type; drawing middle vertical line segments rr1 and pp1 of the line segments or2 and oy, wherein points r and p are respectively positioned at the middle points of the line segments or2 and oy, the point r is a rear armhole hanging point, the point r1 is a rear armhole curved point, the point p is a front armhole hanging point, the point p1 is a front armhole curved point, the line segment rr1=0.022×type, and the line segment pp1=0.03×type; the arc lines are used for respectively connecting the points r2, r1, o, p1 and y to form an armhole bottom structure of the armpit sheet; connecting points r2, r3 and r4 respectively by using arcs to form a dividing structure of the rear garment piece; connecting points y, o5 and o4 respectively by using arcs to form a front garment piece dividing structure; connecting points r4, o2 and o4 respectively by using an arc to form a bottom arc structure of the armpit sheet; the profile of the underarm sheet is made up of points r2, r3, r4, o2, o4, o5, y, p1, o, r 1.
Drawing of the side lower sheet, comprising: drawing a line segment q1q3 and a vertical line segment uq2 thereof, wherein a point u is positioned on the line segment q1q3, a point q1 is a rear crotch and hip point, a point q3 is a front crotch and hip point, a point q2 is a crotch point, a point u is a hip and hip point, the line segment uq2=0.142×type, the line segment uq1=0.117×type, and the line segment uq3=0.123×type; drawing line segments qq1 and q4q3, wherein the point q is a rear crotch upper point, the point q4 is a front crotch upper point, the line segments qq1 and q4q3 and the line segment uq2 are positioned on two sides of the line segment q1q3, the value of = -qqq1u is 1.035 x type, the value of = -q4q3u is 1.035 x type, and the line segment qq1 = line segment q4q3 = 0.22 x type; straight line connecting points q and q4, drawing a rear waistline point s and a front waistline point s1 on a line segment qq4, wherein a line segment qs=0.082×type, and a line segment q4s1=0.096×type; respectively connecting points s, u and s1, u by straight lines, respectively drawing a middle vertical line segment wz and vx of line segments su and s1u, wherein the points w and v are positioned at the middle points of the line segments su and s1u, the point w is a rear crotch vertical point, the point z is a rear crotch curved point, the point v is a front crotch vertical point, the point x is a front crotch curved point, and the line segment wz=vx=0.007×type; the arc line is used for connecting the points s, z and u and the points s1, x and u to form a front side structure and a rear side structure of the side lower sheet; the contour of the side lower panel is composed of points q, q1, q2, q3, q4, s1, x, u, z, s.
Preferably, a straight pocket is erected on the side lower sheet, a pocket upper point t1 is drawn on a line segment qq4, and a pocket position line segment q4t1=0.071×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment qq4 to a pocket lower point t through a point t1, wherein the pocket edge distance line segment t1 t=2.0 cm, and prolonging the line segment t1t to a pocket large point t2, wherein the pocket long line segment tt2=0.178×type; the one-bar pocket is a rectangle drawn according to the pocket long line section tt 2.
Preferably, the straight strip pocket is drawn into a rectangle with the width of 1.0cm according to the pocket long line section tt 2.
Preferably, the cutting of the wool sample plates of the front and rear garment pieces, the sleeve piece structure, the armpit piece and the side lower pieces is completed by putting the sewing head and folding edges on the basis of the net sample plate.
Preferably, the hem is 3.5cm at the bottom edge of the garment piece and the bottom edge of the cuff, and the seam head is 1.0cm at the rest parts of the front and back garment pieces, the sleeve piece structure, the armpit piece and the side lower piece.
The female fitting drawing method of the offset lapel has the following advantages:
compared with the traditional collar drawing method, the drawing of the lapel belongs to a new cutting method, the front and rear garment pieces of the invention are of a connected structure, the collar shape of the front garment piece belongs to an asymmetric structure, the left collar structure is transferred to the heel through the outer end bag of the left upper arm, the right collar structure belongs to a normal western-style garment lapel shape, the large and small sleeves adopt a merging method for drawing, the drawing of the armpit piece and the side lower piece also adopts a merging method, the cutting of the front and rear garment pieces, the large and small sleeve pieces, the armpit piece and the side lower piece of the partial lapel garment is finished on a net template, and the partial lapel garment drawing is finished by adopting the connecting, connecting and merging methods.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view of the front left panel structure of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the front right panel structure of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a schematic view of the front right panel structure of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a schematic view of the structure of a big and small sleeve sheet according to the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a schematic view of the structure of the underarm panel of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is a schematic view of the structure of the side lower sheet of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is a schematic view of the net template for the left and right panels of the present invention.
Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the net patterns of the left and right sleeve panels, the underarm panels and the side underarm panels of the present invention.
Fig. 9 is a schematic view of the left and right panel blank of the present invention.
Fig. 10 is a schematic view of the blank of the left and right sleeve panels, the underarm panels and the side underarm panels of the present invention.
Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the appearance of the garment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The following description of the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clear and complete, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
Example 1
A method for drawing dress form of women with partial lapel head includes such steps as drawing front and back clothes pieces, sleeve pieces, armpit pieces and side bottom pieces. The front and rear garment pieces are of a connected structure, the collar shape of the front garment piece belongs to an asymmetric shape, the left collar structure is turned to the heel through the outer end of the left upper arm, and the right collar structure belongs to a normal collar shape of the suit. The sleeve piece structure comprises a large sleeve and a small sleeve, the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by adopting a merging method, and the drawing of the armpit piece and the side lower piece is also carried out by adopting a merging method. The front and back clothing pieces, sleeve piece structure, armpit piece and side lower piece of the partial lapel women's dress are all cut on the net sample plate. The female clothes size (the size is the height of a human body and the chest circumference of the human body) is 160/84A, and the female clothes size is specifically as follows:
(1) Drawing of front and rear pieces
As shown in fig. 1 to 3, the front and rear panels are completed on the basis of a rectangle abcd, a point a is a rear collar upper point, a point b is a rear garment long point, a point c is a front garment long point, a point d is a front panel high point, a rectangle height ab=dc=0.6x=0.6x 160 cm=96 cm, and a rectangle width ad=bc=0.56 x type=0.56 x 84 cm= 47.04cm. The cut point e is drawn on the line segment ad for drawing the cut waist line ee6, the line segment ae=0.28×type=0.28×84 cm=23.52 cm. A perpendicular line segment ee6 of the line segment ad is drawn from the point e into the rectangle abcd, the line segment ee6 is a waist side line, the point e6 is a crotch point, and the waist side line ee 6=0.815×type=0.815×84 cm= 68.46cm.
The back transverse point b6, the back waist point b4 and the back vent point b3 are drawn on a line segment ab, the point b6 is used for drawing the starting point of a back structural line, the line segment ab6 is a back transverse falling line segment, the line segment ab4 is the height line of waistline of the front and back garment pieces, the line segment b4b3 is the back garment piece vent height, the line segment ab 6=0.147×type=0.147×84 cm= 12.348cm, the line segment ab 4=0.237×number=0.237×160 cm=37.92 cm, and the line segment b4b 3=0.22×type=0.22×84 cm=18.48 cm. A parallel line segment of the line segment bc is drawn from the point b4 and intersected with the line segment dc at the front middle fastening point c7, the line segment b4c7 is a waistline line segment, the rear panel waist-receiving line segment b4b5 is drawn on the line segment b4c7, the point b5 is a rear waist-receiving point, and the line segment b4b5=0.011×type=0.011×84 cm=0.924 cm. The straight line segments are respectively connected with the points b6, b5 and b3 to form the back center structure.
The perpendicular line segment of the line segment ab is drawn from the points b3 and b to the rear vent wide point b2 and the rear vent lower point b1, respectively, the straight line connecting points b2 and b1, the line segment b3b2=the line segment bb1=0.035×type=0.035×84 cm=2.94 cm, and the line segment b3b2=0.035×84cm is used for drawing the width of the rear vent.
Drawing a back neck point a2 on a line segment ad, drawing a back neck heel point a5 on a line segment ab, drawing perpendicular line segments of the line segments ab and ad from the point a5 and the point a2 respectively, and intersecting the perpendicular line segment to a back neck lower point a3, wherein a back transverse opening line segment aa2 = line segment a5a3 = 0.086 x type = 0.086 x 84cm = 7.224cm, a back neck deep line segment aa5 = line segment a2a3 = 0.027 x type = 0.027 x 84cm = 2.268cm, and the back transverse opening line segment and the back neck deep line segment form a rectangle. A third point a1 near the point a5 is drawn on the line segment a5a3, and the point a1 is a rear neck tangent point for drawing a tangent point of the rear neck radian. Drawing an angular bisection line segment a3a4 of the +.a2a3a5, wherein the point a4 is a rear collar oblique point, the line segment a3a4=0.016×84 cm=1.344 cm, and connecting points a5, a1, a4 and a2 respectively by using arcs to form a rear collar radian structure.
The shoulder drop point e1 is drawn on a line segment ee6, the line segment ee1 being a shoulder drop line, the line segment ee1 = 0.052 x-type = 0.052 x 84cm = 4.368cm. The passing point e1 is a parallel line ji of the line ad, the line e1j and the line e1i are the outer ends of the shoulders of the front and rear clothes pieces respectively, the point i is a front shoulder width point, the point j is a rear shoulder width point, the line e1j=0.047xtype=0.047x84 cm= 3.948cm, the line e1i=0.053 xtype=0.053 x 84 cm= 4.452cm.
The armhole depth point e2 is drawn on line segment ee6, armhole depth line segment ee2 = 0.19 x-type = 0.19 x 84cm = 15.96cm. The passing point e2 is taken as a parallel line segment j1i1 of the line segment ad, the line segment j1i1 is a horizontal line of a deep hole, the point i1 is a deep point of a front armhole, the point j1 is a deep point of a rear armhole, the line segment e2j1=0.079×84 cm= 6.636cm, the line segment e2i1=0.09×84 cm=7.56 cm. The straight line segments are used for connecting the point jj1 and the point ii1 respectively to form the auxiliary lateral line of the front armhole and the rear armhole. Drawing points j6 and i6 on the line segments jj1 and ii1, wherein the point j6 is a rear armhole perpendicular point, the point i6 is a front armhole perpendicular point, and vertical line segments j6j5 and i6i5 of the line segments jj1 and ii1 are respectively drawn towards the line segments ab and dc, the point j5 is a rear armhole curved point, the point i5 is a front armhole curved point, and the line segment j6j 5=i6i5=0.006×type=0.006×84 cm=0.504 cm. The upper structure of the front armhole and the rear armhole are respectively formed by connecting points j, j5, j1, i5 and i1 through arcs.
An underarm deep point e3 is drawn on a line segment ee6, the line segment ee3 being an underarm deep line segment, the line segment ee3 = 0.279 x-type = 0.279 x 84cm = 23.436cm. The passing point e3 is taken as a parallel line segment j2i2 of the line segment ad, the point i2 is a deep point of the front armpit, the point j2 is a deep point of the rear armpit, and the line segment e3j2=0.107×type=0.107×84 cm= 8.988cm. Line segment e3i2=0.114×type=0.114×84 cm= 9.576cm. Line segment ee6 and line segment b4c7 intersect at waist point e4, line segment e4j 3=0.13×type=0.13×84 cm=10.92 cm. The front waist point i3 and the rear waist point j3 are drawn on the line segment b4c7, the line segment e4i3=0.124×type=0.124×84 cm= 10.416cm. The arc lines are respectively connected with the points j1, j2 and j3 to form a back panel back parting line, and the arc lines are respectively connected with the points i1, i2 and i3 to form a front panel back parting line.
The hip point e5 is drawn on a line segment ee6, a line segment e4e5 being the hip-lower depth, a line segment e4e5=0.22×type=0.22×84 cm=18.48 cm. The passing point e5 is taken as a parallel line segment j4i4 of the line segment ad, the point i4 is the front hip point, the point j4 is the back hip point, the line segment e5j4=0.117×type=0.117×84 cm= 9.828cm, and the line segment e5i4=0.124×type=0.124×84 cm= 10.416cm. And j3, j4, e6, i4 and i3 are respectively connected by straight line segments to form the foot digging structure of the side lower piece.
A front upper buckling point c6 and a front lower buckling point c8 are respectively drawn on the line segments dc7 and c7c, and the line segment c7c8=c7c6=0.095×type=0.095×84 cm=7.98 cm. And drawing vertical line segments of the line segment dc to the outside of the rectangle abcd from points c6, c7 and c8 respectively to a front upper buckling outer point c5, a front middle buckling outer point c4 and a front lower buckling outer point c3, wherein the line segment c6c5=c7c4=c8c3=0.018×type=0.018×84 cm=1.512 cm, and connecting the line segments respectively to the points c5, c4 and c3 to form the front garment piece front fly structure.
Drawing an angular bisection line segment cc1 of +.c8cb, wherein the point c1 is a front pendulum dot, and the line segment cc1 = 0.21 x type = 0.21 x 84cm = 17.64cm. Drawing a rear garment swinging point c2 on a line segment bc, wherein the line segment bc2=0.19×type=0.19×84 cm=15.96 cm, and connecting points c3, c1 and c2 respectively by arc segments to form a front garment piece circular lower corner structure.
The front neck point d1 is drawn on the line segment ad, and the straight line segments for front transverse opening line segment dd1=0.083×type=0.083×84 cm= 6.972cm are respectively connected with points a2 and j and points d1 and i to form the front and rear garment piece shoulder structure.
And drawing +.ad1f1 outside the rectangle abcd, wherein the point f1 is the lower middle point of the right rear collar, the +.ad1f1=0.7xtype=0.7x84 degrees=58.8 degrees, and the angular border segment d1f1=0.095xtype=0.095 x 84 cm=7.98 cm for drawing the collar length. The perpendicular line segment of the line segment d1f1 is drawn to the upper middle point f of the right rear collar by the passing point f1, the line segment f1f is the rear center width of the front right garment piece connecting collar, the line segment f1f and the line segment d1d are positioned on the same side of the line segment d1f1, and the line segment f1f=0.074×type=0.074×84 cm= 6.216cm. The perpendicular line segment of the line segment f1f is drawn to the right collar corner point f2 by the passing point f, the line segment ff2 and the d1f1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f1f, and the line segment ff2 = 0.184 x 84cm = 15.456cm is used for drawing the collar outside structure of the front right garment piece connecting collar. Line segment f2f3 is drawn through point f2, point f3 is the right lapel point, and f2f3=1.321×type=1.321×84= 110.964 degrees, line segment f2f3=0.035×type=0.035×84 cm=2.94 cm. The line segment f3f4 is drawn through the point f3, the point f4 is a right lapel point, the angle f2f3f4=0.9×type=0.9×84=75.6 degrees, the line segment f3f4= 0.0416 ×type= 0.0416 ×84 cm= 3.4944cm, and the lapel foundation line segment is formed by the straight line segment connection points f4 and c 5. A central vertical line segment f5f6 of the line segment f4c5 is made on the line segment f4c5 in a direction far away from the line segment dc, the point f5 is positioned on the line segment f4c5, the point f5 is a right drop point, the point f6 is a right drop side point, f5f6=0.006×type=0.006×84 cm=0.504 cm, and the arc lines are respectively connected with the points f4, f6 and c5 to form the lapel external port structure. The line segment i1g1=0.452×type=0.452×84 cm= 37.968cm connecting point i1 and point a with a straight line segment and extending to the lower middle-left collar point g 1. The perpendicular line g1g of the line segment i1g1 is drawn through the point g1, the line segments g1g and ab are located on two sides of the line segment i1g1, the point g is the upper middle point of the left rear collar, and the length of the line segment g1 g=the length of the line segment ff 1. Drawing +.c6c5g4=0.71×type=0.71×84= 59.64 degrees, point g4 is left lapel point, line segment c5g4=0.275×type=0.275×84 cm=23.1 cm. And drawing a middle vertical line g6g5 of the line segment c5g4, wherein a point g6 is positioned on the line segment c5g4, the point g6 is a left drop point, the point g5 is a left drop side point, the line segment g6g5=0.008×84 cm=0.672 cm, and the arc line segments are used for respectively connecting the points g4, g5 and c5 to form a left garment piece drop port structure. Drawing +.c5g4g3=1.3×type=1.3×84=109.2 degrees, line segment g4g3 and line segment g6g5 being on both sides of line segment c5g4, point g3 being the left lapel point, length of line segment g4g 3=length of line segment f3f 4. Drawing +.g4g3g2=0.9xtype=0.9x84=75.6 degrees, wherein line segments g3g2 and c5g4 are positioned on two sides of line segment g4g3, point g2 is a left collar corner point, length of line segment g3g 2=length of line segment f3f2, and straight line segment connecting points g2 and g form a left garment piece outer port structure.
The contour of the front and rear right body panels is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, f6, f4, f3, f2, f1, d1, i5, i1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j1, j5, j, a2, a4, a 1. The contour of the front and rear left body panels is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2, g1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j 1.
(2) Drawing of sleeve structure
As shown in fig. 4, the drawing of the large and small sleeve sheets adopts a merging method, a rectangle h6nm2h2 is drawn, a point h6 is an upper sleeve left point, a point n is a lower sleeve left point, a point m2 is an lower sleeve right point, a point h2 is an upper sleeve right point, a long side h6n=h2m2=0.375×no=0.375×160 cm=60 cm, a short side h6h2=nm 2=0.418×type=0.418×84 cm= 35.112cm.
The small sleeve upper point h5, the large sleeve upper point h4, the large sleeve left point h3, the large sleeve middle point h, and the large sleeve right point h1 are drawn on a line segment h6h2, a large sleeve course line segment h6h5=0.088×type=0.088×84 cm=7.392 cm, a line segment h6h4=0.162×type=0.162×84 cm= 13.608cm, a line segment h2h=0.148×type=0.148×84 cm= 12.432cm, a line segment h2h1=0.095×type=0.095×84 cm=7.98 cm, and a line segment h2h3=0.203×type=0.203×84 cm= 17.052cm. A small sleeve eighth arc point l4 is drawn on line segment h6n, a large sleeve vertical line segment h6l4=0.129×0.129×84 cm=10.836 cm. The passing points h5, h4, h3 and h1 draw a perpendicular line segment h6h2 to a small sleeve seventh arc point l3, a large sleeve sixth arc point l2, a large sleeve fifth arc point l1 and a large sleeve fourth arc point l respectively into a rectangle h6nm2h2, the line segment h5l3=0.136×84 cm=11.424 cm, h4l2=0.082×0.082×84 cm=6.888 cm, h3l1=0.017×0.017×84 cm=1.428 cm, h1l=0.018×0.018×84 cm=1.512 cm.
Drawing a first large sleeve point k2, a second large sleeve point k3, a third large sleeve point k4 and a fourth large sleeve point k5 on a line segment h2m2, wherein the line segment h2k2=0.053×type=0.053×84 cm=4.452 cm, h2k3=0.091×type=0.091×84 cm=7.644 cm, h2k4=0.137×type=0.137×84 cm=11.508cm, h2k5=0.16×type=0.16×84 cm=13.44 cm. The passing points k2, k3 and k4 draw a perpendicular line segment h2m2 to a third large sleeve arc point k, a second large sleeve arc point k1 and a first large sleeve arc point k6 in the rectangle h6nm2h2 respectively, the line segment k2k=0.062×type=0.062×84 cm=5.208 cm is horizontally arranged on the inner side of the large sleeve, the line segment k3k1=0.042×type=0.042×84 cm= 3.528cm, and the line segment k4k6=0.027×type=0.027×84 cm= 2.268cm.
The arc sections are used for respectively connecting the points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k, k6 and k5 to form the big-small sleeve structure.
The large sleeve elbow point m and the large sleeve opening point m1 are drawn on the line segment h2m2, the large sleeve inner side line segment h2m=0.428×type=0.428×84 cm= 35.952cm, and the line segment m2m1=0.017×type=0.017×84 cm=1.428 cm. And drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment h2m2 into the rectangle h6nm2h2 to the large sleeve elbow receiving point m6 by the passing point m, wherein the line segment mm6 = line segment m2m1. And the arc sections are used for respectively connecting the points k5, m6 and m1 to form a large sleeve elbow inner bending structure.
The small sleeve elbow point n4 and the small sleeve mouth point n2 are drawn on a line segment h6n, the line segment h6n4=0.357×type=0.357×84 cm= 29.988cm, the line segment nn2=0.059×type=0.059×84 cm= 4.956cm. The passing points n4 and n2 draw the perpendicular line segment of the line segment h6n to the outside of the rectangle h6nm2h2 to the small sleeve elbow outside point n3 and the small sleeve outside point n1, the line segment n4n3=0.022×type=0.022×84 cm=1.848 cm, and the line segment n2n1=0.107×type=0.107×84 cm= 8.988cm. The arc sections are used for respectively connecting the points l4, n3 and n1 to form the elbow inner bending structure of the small sleeve.
A sleeve left locus m4 is drawn on the line segment nm2, the line segment nm4 = 0.03×type = 0.03×84cm = 2.52cm, and a perpendicular line segment of the line segment nm2 is drawn into the rectangle h6nm2h2 through the point m4 to the sleeve left upper locus m5, m4m5 = 0.013×type = 0.013× 84cm = 1.092cm. Extending from point n4, line segment n3n4, to the short sleeve elbow outer point n6, line segment n4n6=0.142×type=0.142×84 cm= 11.928cm. The arc sections are used for respectively connecting the points l2, n6 and m5 to form the elbow bending structure of the small sleeve.
The large cuff left point m3 is drawn on the line segment nm2, and the large cuff line segment m2m3=0.178×type=0.178×84 cm= 14.952cm. Extending a line segment n3n6 from the point n6 to a large sleeve elbow outer point n5, the line segment n6n5=0.029×type=0.029×84 cm= 2.436cm. The arc sections are used for respectively connecting the points l2, n5 and m3 to form the elbow outer bending structure of the large sleeve.
The contour of the right sleeve panel is composed of points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3. The left sleeve patch has a contour composed of points l4, l3, l2, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3.
(3) Drawing of underarm pieces
As shown in fig. 5, the drawing of the underarm piece adopts a one-piece method, the line segment r5o4 and the vertical line segment oo3 thereof are drawn, the point o3 is on the line segment r5o4, the point r5 is a back waist base point, the point o4 is a front waist point, the point o is a front and back side middle point, the point o3 is a front and back waist point, the line segment r5o4=0.176×type=0.176×84 cm= 14.784cm, the line segment r5o3=0.082×type=0.082×84 cm= 6.888cm, and the line segment oo3=0.188×84 cm=15.792 cm. The perpendicular line segment of the line segment r5o4 is drawn to the rear waist point r4 by the passing point r5, the line segment r5r4 and the line segment oo3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment r5o4, and the line segment r5r4=0.012×type=0.012×84 cm=1.008 cm. The lumbar point o2 and the front and rear abdominal point o1 are drawn on a line segment oo3, the line segment o3o2=0.016×type=0.016×84 cm=1.344 cm, the line segment oo1=0.056×type=0.056×84 cm=4.704 cm. The perpendicular line segment r3o5 of the line segment oo3 is drawn through the point o1, the point r3 and the point r4 are located on the same side of the line segment oo3, the point r3 is a rear belly point, the point o5 is a front belly point, the line segment o1r3=0.095xtype=0.095x84 cm=7.98 cm, and the line segment o1o5=0.121 xtype=0.121×84 cm= 10.164cm. Drawing line segments or2 and oy, wherein a point r2 is a rear-side point, a point y is a front-side point, the line segment or2 and the line segment o1r3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the line segment oy and the line segment o1o5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the angle o3or 2=1.67×type=1.67×84= 140.28 degrees, the line segment or 2=0.113×type=0.113×84 cm= 9.492cm, the angle o3oy=1.59×type=1.59×84=133.56 degrees, and the line segment oy=0.1×type=0.1×84 cm=8.4 cm. Drawing midpoints rr1 and pp1 of the line segments or2 and oy, wherein points r and p are respectively positioned at the midpoints of the line segments or2 and oy, the point r is a rear armhole hanging point, the point r1 is a rear armhole curved point, the point p is a front armhole hanging point, the point p1 is a front armhole curved point, the line segment rr1=0.022×84 cm=1.848 cm, and the line segment pp1=0.03× 84 cm=2.52 cm. The armhole bottom structure of the armhole sheet is formed by connecting points r2, r1, o, p1 and y respectively through arcs. And connecting points r2, r3 and r4 respectively by using arcs to form a split structure of the rear garment piece. And connecting points y, o5 and o4 respectively by using arcs to form a front panel splitting structure. And the bottom arc structure of the armpit sheet is formed by connecting points r4, o2 and o4 respectively by using arcs.
The profile of the underarm sheet is made up of points r2, r3, r4, o2, o4, o5, y, p1, o, r 1.
(4) Drawing of side lower sheet
As shown in fig. 6, the drawing of the side lower panel adopts a one-piece method, the line segment q1q3 and the vertical line segment uq2 thereof are drawn, the point u is on the line segment q1q3, the point q1 is the rear hip point, the point q3 is the front hip point, the point q2 is the crotch point, the point u is the hip point, the line segment uq2=0.142×type=0.142×84 cm= 11.928cm, the line segment uq1=0.117×type=0.117×84 cm= 9.828cm, the line segment uq3=0.123×type=0.123×84 cm= 10.332cm. Line segments qq1 and q4q3 are drawn, point q is a rear crotch point, point q4 is a front crotch point, line segments qq1 and q4q3 are on both sides of line segment q1q3 with line segment uq2, and = qq1u= q4q3u= 1.035 x type = 1.035 x 84 = 86.94 degrees, line segment qq1 = q4q3 = 0.22 x type = 0.22 x 84cm = 18.48cm.
Straight lines connect q and q4, and the rear waistline s and the front waistline s1 are drawn on the line segment qq4, the line segment qs=0.082×type=0.082×84 cm= 6.888cm, and the line segment q4s1=0.096×type=0.096×84 cm= 8.064cm. The straight lines are used for respectively connecting the points s, u and s1, u, and the middle vertical line segments wz and vx of the line segments su and s1u are respectively drawn, the points w and v are positioned at the middle points of the line segments su and s1u, the point w is a rear crotch vertical point, the point z is a rear crotch curved point, the point v is a front crotch vertical point, the point x is a front crotch curved point, and the line segments wz=vx=0.007×type=0.007×84 cm=0.588 cm. The arc segments are used for respectively connecting the points s, z and u and the points s1, x and u to form the front side edge structure and the rear side edge structure of the side lower sheet.
The contour of the side lower panel is composed of points q, q1, q2, q3, q4, s1, x, u, z, s.
(5) Side lower piece pocket drawing
A straight pocket is erected on the side lower sheet, a pocket upper point t1 is drawn on a line segment qq4, and a pocket position line segment q4t1=0.071×type=0.071×84 cm= 5.964cm. The perpendicular line segment of the line segment qq4 is drawn from the passing point t1 to the pocket lower point t, the pocket edge distance line segment t1t=2.0 cm, the line segment t1t is prolonged to the pocket large point t2, and the pocket length line segment tt2=0.178×type=0.178×84 cm= 14.952cm. A rectangular pocket is drawn according to a pocket long line section tt2, and the width of the rectangular pocket is 1.0 cm.
The net template of the left and right garment pieces of the present invention is shown in fig. 7, the net template of the left and right sleeve pieces, the armpit pieces and the side lower pieces of the present invention is shown in fig. 8, the rough template cutting is shown in fig. 9 to 10, the rough template cutting of the front and rear garment pieces, the large and small sleeve pieces, the armpit pieces and the side lower pieces is completed by putting the sewing head and the hem on the basis of the net template, the hem is set to be 3.5cm at the bottom edge of the garment piece and the bottom edge of the cuff, and the sewing head is set to be 1.0cm at the rest of the front and rear garment pieces, the large and small sleeve pieces, the armpit pieces and the side lower pieces, as shown in fig. 11, and the appearance of the garment of the present invention is shown in fig. 11.
While the present invention has been described in detail through the foregoing description of the preferred embodiment, it should be understood that the foregoing description is not to be considered as limiting the invention. Many modifications and substitutions of the present invention will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art upon reading the foregoing. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be limited only by the attached claims.

Claims (5)

1. The method is characterized by comprising the steps of drawing front and back clothes pieces, sleeve piece structures, armpit pieces and side lower pieces, drawing according to the size of clothes, wherein the size represents the height of a human body, and the size represents the chest circumference of the human body;
drawing of the front and rear panels comprises:
drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein a point a is a rear collar upper point, a point b is a rear garment long point, a point c is a front garment long point, a point d is a front garment piece high point, a line segment ab=a line segment dc=0.6×number, and a line segment ad=a line segment bc=0.56×type; drawing a cut point e of the garment piece on the line segment ad, wherein the line segment ae=0.28×type, drawing a perpendicular line segment ee6 of the line segment ad from the point e into the rectangle abcd, wherein the line segment ee6 is a waist side line, the point e6 is a crotch point, and the waist side line ee 6=0.815×type; drawing a back transverse point b6, a back waist point b4 and a back vent point b3 on a line segment ab, wherein the line segment ab6 is a back transverse falling line segment, the line segment ab4 is a height line of waistline of the front and back garment pieces, the line segment b4b3 is a back garment piece vent height, the line segment ab6 = 0.147 x type, the line segment ab4 = 0.237 x number, and the line segment b4b3 = 0.22 x type; a parallel line segment of a line segment bc is drawn from a point b4 and is intersected with a line segment dc at a front middle buckling point c7, the line segment b4c7 is a waistline line segment, a rear garment piece waist receiving amount line segment b4b5 is drawn on the line segment b4c7, the point b5 is a rear waist receiving point, and the line segment b4b5=0.011×type; connecting points b6, b5 and b3 respectively by straight line segments to form a back center structure;
Drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment ab from the points b3 and b to the outside of the rectangle abcd to a rear vent wide point b2 and a rear vent lower point b1 respectively, connecting the points b2 and b1 by straight lines, wherein the line segment b3b2=the line segment bb1=0.035×type for drawing the width of the rear vent;
drawing a back neck point a2 on a line segment ad, drawing a back neck heel point a5 on a line segment ab, drawing perpendicular line segments of the line segments ab and ad from the point a5 and the point a2 respectively, and crossing the perpendicular line segments to a back neck lower point a3, wherein a back transverse opening line segment aa2 = line segment a5a3 = 0.086 x type, a back neck deep line segment aa5 = line segment a2a3 = 0.027 x type, and the back transverse opening line segment and the back neck deep line segment form a rectangle; drawing a third point a1 close to a point a5 on a line segment a5a3, wherein the point a1 is a rear collar tangent point; drawing an angular bisection line segment a3a4 of the angle a2a3a5, wherein the point a4 is a rear collar oblique point, the line segment a3a4=0.016×type, and connecting points a5, a1, a4 and a2 respectively by using arcs to form a rear collar radian structure;
drawing a shoulder drop point e1 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment ee1 is a shoulder drop line, and the line segment ee1 = 0.052 x type; parallel line ji of line ad through point e1, line e1j and line e1i are the outer ends of shoulders of front and back panels respectively, point i is front shoulder width point, point j is back shoulder width point, line e1j=0.047×type, line segment
e1i=0.053×type;
Drawing an armhole deep point e2 on a line segment ee6, wherein the armhole deep line segment ee2 = 0.19 x type; the passing point e2 is taken as a parallel line segment j1i1 of the line segment ad, the line segment j1i1 is a horizontal line of the depth of the armhole, the point i1 is a deep point of the front armhole, the point j1 is a deep point of the rear armhole, the line segment e2j1=0.079×type, and the line segment e2i1=0.09×type; connecting points j and j1 and points i and i1 respectively by using straight line segments to form a front armhole auxiliary lateral line and a rear armhole auxiliary lateral line respectively; drawing points j6 and i6 on the line segments jj1 and ii1, wherein the point j6 is a rear armhole perpendicular point, the point i6 is a front armhole perpendicular point, vertical line segments j6j5 and i6i5 of the line segments jj1 and ii1 are respectively drawn towards the line segments ab and dc, the point j5 is a rear armhole curved point, the point i5 is a front armhole curved point, and the line segment j6j 5=i6i5=0.006×type; connecting points j, j5, j1, i5 and i1 respectively by using arcs to form a front armhole upper structure and a rear armhole upper structure;
drawing an armpit deep point e3 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment ee3 is an armpit deep line segment, and the line segment ee 3=0.279×type; the passing point e3 is taken as a parallel line segment j2i2 of the line segment ad, the point i2 is a deep point at the front armpit, the point j2 is a deep point at the rear armpit, the line segment e3j2=0.107×type, and the line segment e3i2=0.114×type; line segment ee6 and line segment b4c7 intersect at waist point e4, line segment e4j3=0.13×type; drawing a front waist point i3 and a rear waist point j3 on a line segment b4c7, wherein the line segment e4i3=0.124×type; the arc lines are respectively connected with j1, j2 and j3 to form a back cut line, and the arc lines are respectively connected with i1, i2 and i3 to form a front cut line;
Drawing a hip point e5 on a line segment ee6, wherein the line segment e4e5 is the depth of the hip circumference, and the line segment e4e5=0.22×type; the passing point e5 is taken as a parallel line segment j4i4 of the line segment ad, the point i4 is the front hip point, the point j4 is the rear hip point, the line segment e5j4=0.117×type, and the line segment e5i4=0.124×type; connecting the j3, j4, e6, i4 and i3 points respectively by using straight line segments to form a side lower piece foot digging structure;
drawing a front upper buckling point c6 and a front lower buckling point c8 on a line segment dc7 and a line segment c7c respectively, wherein the line segment c7c8=the line segment c7c6=0.095 x type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment dc to the outside of the rectangle abcd from points c6, c7 and c8 respectively to a front upper buckling outer point c5, a front middle buckling outer point c4 and a front lower buckling outer point c3, wherein the line segment c6c5=the line segment c7c4=the line segment c8c3=the 0.018 x type, and connecting points c5, c4 and c3 respectively by using the straight line segments to form a front garment piece front fly structure;
drawing an angular bisection line segment cc1 of +.c8cb, wherein the point c1 is a front clothing pendulum dot, and the line segment cc1 = 0.21 x type; drawing a rear garment swinging point c2 on a line segment bc, wherein the line segment bc2=0.19×type, and connecting points c3, c1 and c2 respectively by using an arc line segment to form a front garment piece circular lower corner structure;
drawing a front neck point d1 on a line segment ad, wherein a front transverse opening line segment dd1=0.083×type, and connecting points a2 and j and points d1 and i respectively by using straight line segments to form a front and rear garment piece shoulder structure;
Drawing an angle ad1f1 outside a rectangle abcd, wherein a point f1 is a lower middle point of a right rear collar, the value of the angle ad1f 1=0.7×type, and an angle side line segment d1f1=0.095×type, and the angle side line segment d1f 1=0.095×type is used for drawing the collar length; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment d1f1 to an upper point f in a right rear collar by the passing point f1, wherein the line segment f1f is the rear center width of the front right garment piece connecting collar, the line segment f1f and the line segment d1d are positioned on the same side of the line segment d1f1, and the line segment f1f=0.074×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment f1f to a right collar corner point f2 through the point f, wherein the line segment ff2 and the d1f1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f1f, and the line segment ff2 = 0.184 x type is used for drawing a collar outer edge structure of a front right garment piece connecting collar; drawing a line segment f2f3 through a point f2, wherein the point f3 is a right lapel point, the value of the angle ff2f3 is=1.321 multiplied by the type, and the line segment f2f3 is=0.035 multiplied by the type; drawing a line segment f3f4 through a point f3, wherein the point f4 is a right lapel point, the angle f2f3f4=0.9×type, the line segment f3f4= 0.0416 ×type, and connecting points f4 and c5 of the straight line segment form a lapel foundation line segment; a central vertical line segment f5f6 of a line segment f4c5 is made on a line segment f4c5 in a direction far away from the line segment dc, a point f5 is positioned on the line segment f4c5, the point f5 is a right drop point, the point f6 is a right drop point, f5f6=0.006×type, and the points f4, f6 and c5 are respectively connected by arcs to form a collar external port structure; connecting point i1 and point a with a straight line segment and extending to a lower middle point g1 in the left rear collar, wherein line segment i1g1=0.452×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment g1g of a line segment i1g1 through a point g1, wherein the line segments g1g and ab are positioned on two sides of the line segment i1g1, the point g is the upper middle point of the left rear collar, and the length of the line segment g1 g=the length of the line segment ff 1; drawing a value of < c6c5g4, wherein the value of < c6c5g 4=0.71×type, the point g4 is a left lapel point, and the line segment c5g4=0.275×type; drawing a middle vertical line segment g6g5 of a line segment c5g4, wherein a point g6 is positioned on the line segment c5g4, the point g6 is a left drop point, the point g5 is a left drop side point, the line segment g6g5=0.008×type, and the arc line segments are respectively connected with the points g4, g5 and c5 to form a left garment piece drop structure; drawing a value of < c5g4g3, a value of < c5g4g3 = 1.3 x type, wherein a line segment g4g3 and a line segment g6g5 are positioned on two sides of the line segment c5g4, a point g3 is a left port point, and the length of the line segment g4g3 = the length of the line segment f3f 4; drawing a value of < g4g3g2, a value of < g4g3g2 = 0.9 x type, wherein line segments g3g2 and c5g4 are positioned on two sides of a line segment g4g3, a point g2 is a left collar corner point, the length of the line segment g3g2 = the length of a line segment f3f2, and a left garment piece lapel structure is formed by connecting points g2 and g of straight line segments;
The contour of the front and rear right half body panels is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, f6, f4, f3, f2, f1, d1, i5, i1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j1, j5, j, a2, a4, a 1; the contour of the front half body and the back half body is composed of points a5, b6, b5, b3, b2, b1, b, c2, c1, c3, c4, c5, g4, g3, g2, g1, i2, i3, i4, e6, j4, j3, j2, j 1;
drawing of the sleeve sheet structure comprises:
drawing a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein a point h6 is an upper sleeve left point, a point n is a lower sleeve left point, a point m2 is a lower sleeve right point, a point h2 is an upper sleeve right point, a line segment h6n=a line segment h2m2=0.375×number, a line segment h6h2=a line segment nm 2=0.418×type;
drawing a small sleeve upper point h5, a large sleeve upper point h4, a large sleeve left side point h3, a large sleeve middle point h and a large sleeve right side point h1 on a line segment h6h2, wherein a large sleeve transverse line segment h6h5=0.088×type, a line segment h6h4=0.162×type, a line segment h2h=0.148×type, a line segment h2h1=0.095×type and a line segment h2h3=0.203×type; drawing an eighth arc point l4 of the small sleeve on the line segment h6n, wherein the vertical line segment h6 l4=0.129×type of the large sleeve; the passing points h5, h4, h3 and h1 respectively draw a perpendicular line segment h6h2 to a small sleeve seventh arc point l3, a large sleeve sixth arc point l2, a large sleeve fifth arc point l1 and a large sleeve fourth arc point l into a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein the line segment h5l3=0.136×type, h4l2=0.082×type, h3l1=0.017×type and h1l=0.018×type;
Drawing a first large sleeve point k2, a second large sleeve point k3, a third large sleeve point k4 and a fourth large sleeve point k5 on a line segment h2m2, wherein line segments h2k2=0.053×type, h2k3=0.091×type, h2k4=0.137×type and h2k5=0.16×type are arranged on the inner side of the large sleeve; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h2m2 to a third large sleeve arc point k, a second large sleeve arc point k1 and a first large sleeve arc point k6 in a rectangle h6nm2h2 through points k2, k3 and k4, wherein the line segment k2k=0.062 x type, the line segment k3k1=0.042 x type and the line segment k4k6=0.027 x type are transversely arranged at the inner side of the large sleeve;
connecting points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k, k6 and k5 respectively by using arc sections to form a big-small sleeve structure;
drawing a large sleeve elbow point m and a large sleeve opening point m1 on a line segment h2m2, wherein the line segment h2m=0.428×type at the inner side of the large sleeve body and the line segment m2m1=0.017×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h2m2 to a large sleeve elbow receiving point m6 from the passing point m to a rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein the line segment mm6 = line segment m2m1; the arc segments are used for respectively connecting the points k5, m6 and m1 to form a large sleeve elbow inner bending structure;
drawing a small sleeve elbow point n4 and a small sleeve opening point n2 on a line segment h6n, wherein the line segment h6n4=0.357×type and the line segment nn2=0.059×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment h6n to a point n3 and a small cuff outer point n1 from the passing points n4 and n2 to the outside of the rectangle h6nm2h2, wherein the line segment n4n3=0.022×type and the line segment n2n1=0.107×type; connecting points l4, n3 and n1 respectively by using an arc section to form a small sleeve elbow inner bending structure;
Drawing a small sleeve left locus m4 on a line segment nm2, drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment nm2 into a rectangle h6nm2h2 through the line segment nm4 = 0.03 x type, and drawing a small sleeve left locus m5, m4m5 = 0.013 x type; extending a line segment n3n4 from a point n4 to a small sleeve elbow outer point n6, the line segment n4n6=0.142×type; connecting points l2, n6 and m5 respectively by using an arc section to form a small sleeve elbow bending structure;
drawing a large cuff left point m3 on a line segment nm2, wherein the large cuff line segment m2m3=0.178×type; extending a line segment n3n6 from a point n6 to a large sleeve elbow outer point n5, the line segment n6n5=0.029×type; connecting points l2, n5 and m3 respectively by using an arc section to form a large sleeve elbow bending structure;
the outline of the right sleeve sheet is composed of points l4, l3, l2, l1, h, l, k, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3; the outline of the left sleeve sheet is composed of points l4, l3, l2, k1, k6, k5, m6, m1, m3, n5, l2, n6, m5, n1, n 3;
drawing of the underarm sheet comprising:
drawing a line segment r5o4 and a vertical line segment oo3 thereof, wherein a point o3 is positioned on the line segment r5o4, a point r5 is a back waist base point, a point o4 is a front waist point, a point o is a front and back side midpoint, a point o3 is a front and back waist point, a line segment r5o4=0.176×type, a line segment r5o3=0.082×type, and a line segment oo3=0.188×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment r5o4 to a rear waist point r4 through the point r5, wherein the line segment r5r4 and the line segment oo3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment r5o4, and the line segment r5r4=0.012×type; drawing a lumbar support point o2 and a front and rear belly point o1 on a line segment oo3, wherein the line segment o3o2=0.016×type and the line segment oo1=0.056×type; drawing a perpendicular line segment r3o5 of the line segment oo3 through the point o1, wherein the point r3 and the point r4 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the point r3 is a rear belly point, the point o5 is a front belly point, the line segment o1r3=0.095×type, and the line segment o1o5=0.121×type; drawing line segments or2 and oy, wherein a point r2 is a rear-side sharp point, a point y is a front-side sharp point, the line segment or2 and the line segment o1r3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the line segment oy and the line segment o1o5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment oo3, the value of +_o3or 2=1.67×type, the line segment or 2=0.113×type, the value of +_o3oy=1.59×type, and the line segment oy=0.1×type; drawing middle vertical line segments rr1 and pp1 of the line segments or2 and oy, wherein points r and p are respectively positioned at the middle points of the line segments or2 and oy, the point r is a rear armhole hanging point, the point r1 is a rear armhole curved point, the point p is a front armhole hanging point, the point p1 is a front armhole curved point, the line segment rr1=0.022×type, and the line segment pp1=0.03×type; the arc lines are used for respectively connecting the points r2, r1, o, p1 and y to form an armhole bottom structure of the armpit sheet; connecting points r2, r3 and r4 respectively by using arcs to form a dividing structure of the rear garment piece; connecting points y, o5 and o4 respectively by using arcs to form a front garment piece dividing structure; connecting points r4, o2 and o4 respectively by using an arc to form a bottom arc structure of the armpit sheet;
The contour of the underarm sheet is composed of points r2, r3, r4, o2, o4, o5, y, p1, o, r 1;
drawing of the side lower sheet, comprising:
drawing a line segment q1q3 and a vertical line segment uq2 thereof, wherein a point u is positioned on the line segment q1q3, a point q1 is a rear crotch and hip point, a point q3 is a front crotch and hip point, a point q2 is a crotch point, a point u is a hip and hip point, the line segment uq2=0.142×type, the line segment uq1=0.117×type, and the line segment uq3=0.123×type; drawing line segments qq1 and q4q3, wherein the point q is a rear crotch upper point, the point q4 is a front crotch upper point, the line segments qq1 and q4q3 and the line segment uq2 are positioned on two sides of the line segment q1q3, the value of = -qqq1u is 1.035 x type, the value of = -q4q3u is 1.035 x type, and the line segment qq1 = line segment q4q3 = 0.22 x type;
straight line connecting points q and q4, drawing a rear waistline point s and a front waistline point s1 on a line segment qq4, wherein a line segment qs=0.082×type, and a line segment q4s1=0.096×type; respectively connecting points s, u and s1, u by straight lines, respectively drawing a middle vertical line segment wz and vx of line segments su and s1u, wherein the points w and v are positioned at the middle points of the line segments su and s1u, the point w is a rear crotch vertical point, the point z is a rear crotch curved point, the point v is a front crotch vertical point, the point x is a front crotch curved point, and the line segment wz=vx=0.007×type; the arc line is used for connecting the points s, z and u and the points s1, x and u to form a front side structure and a rear side structure of the side lower sheet;
the contour of the side lower panel is composed of points q, q1, q2, q3, q4, s1, x, u, z, s.
2. A female fitting drawing method for the partial lapel as set forth in claim 1, wherein a character strip pocket is erected on the side lower sheet, a pocket upper point t1 is drawn on a line segment qq4, and a pocket position line segment q4t1=0.071 x type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment qq4 to a pocket lower point t through a point t1, wherein the pocket edge distance line segment t1 t=2.0 cm, and prolonging the line segment t1t to a pocket large point t2, wherein the pocket long line segment tt2=0.178×type; the one-bar pocket is a rectangle drawn according to the pocket long line section tt 2.
3. The method for manufacturing a female on the deviated head according to claim 2, wherein the straight pocket is drawn into a rectangle with a width of 1.0cm according to a pocket long line tt 2.
4. A method for manufacturing a female wearing chart with offset lapel as set forth in claim 1, wherein the cutting of the blank plates of the front and rear garment pieces, sleeve piece structure, armpit piece and side lower piece are all completed by sewing and hemming on the basis of a net template.
5. A method for making a female wearing figure with a lapel head as set forth in claim 4, wherein the hem is placed 3.5cm at the bottom edge of the garment piece and the bottom edge of the cuff, and the seam head is placed 1.0cm at the rest of the front and rear garment pieces, the sleeve piece structure, the underarm piece and the side lower piece.
CN202110637631.4A 2021-06-08 2021-06-08 Method for dress drawing of female with eccentric lapel Active CN113331517B (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110013059A (en) * 2019-04-15 2019-07-16 西京学院 A kind of collapsible clinking method of cutting out of children's western clothes body piece
CN111802714A (en) * 2020-07-20 2020-10-23 西京学院 Method for cutting men's suit universal exhibition lining
CN112641155A (en) * 2020-12-28 2021-04-13 西京学院 Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes
CN112914183A (en) * 2021-04-13 2021-06-08 西京学院 Method for making European style suit body piece of man's suit

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110013059A (en) * 2019-04-15 2019-07-16 西京学院 A kind of collapsible clinking method of cutting out of children's western clothes body piece
CN111802714A (en) * 2020-07-20 2020-10-23 西京学院 Method for cutting men's suit universal exhibition lining
CN112641155A (en) * 2020-12-28 2021-04-13 西京学院 Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes
CN112914183A (en) * 2021-04-13 2021-06-08 西京学院 Method for making European style suit body piece of man's suit

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