CN113057391A

CN113057391A - Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing

Info

Publication number: CN113057391A
Application number: CN202110346577.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈敏
Original assignee: Liming Vocational University
Current assignee: Liming Vocational University
Priority date: 2021-03-31
Filing date: 2021-03-31
Publication date: 2021-07-02
Anticipated expiration: 2041-03-31
Also published as: CN113057391B

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing, which comprises the following steps: step a, manufacturing a front garment piece template and a rear garment piece template, and manufacturing a front sleeve template and a rear sleeve template according to the front garment piece template and the rear garment piece template; b, flatly placing the front garment piece template, the rear garment piece template, the front sleeve template and the rear sleeve template together, performing corresponding placing amount according to the style size, manufacturing a front garment piece with a front sleeve piece and a rear garment piece with a rear sleeve piece, cutting an oblique front cut on the front garment piece, dividing the front garment piece into a front left garment piece and a front right garment piece, and manufacturing an inner front according to the oblique front cut; manufacturing a decorative strip; and c, sewing the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the inner front and the decorative strip into a garment body, and sewing corresponding buttons. The invention can make the clothes of Huoding woman fit more, and in addition, can increase the seam position on increasing the right front small garment piece, avoid sewing the clothes that the back fly brings not fit.

Description

Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing

Technical Field

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing.

Background

The 'Huo Ding Gong Huo Ding Po' is one of foot-coating entertainment projects, is one of Quanzhou folk celebration, welcome competition, "step on street" and "make up man" parades, is popular with people in the quan city and countryside at the late stage when the dance is not later than the middle stage in the clear, and has a history of nearly three hundred years to date.

The performance personnel of this folk dance mainly distributes in the rural area of two street office in the south of the river of carp urban area of quan city, pontoon bridge, and the practitioner is complicated scattered, and their performance activity has amateur also has the occupational nature, mainly serves the meeting of myth in rural area, wedding and funeral festival activity, and this is the main source of their income. In recent years, governments make a lot of work of excavation, rescue, inheritance and propagation, activities are well developed, but problems that old artists quit from a platform, young generations are reluctant to take over work, backbone talents are seriously lacked, occupational income faces to be cut off and the like, which are difficult to solve and need to be solved are still existed, and the problems are about to disappear.

The front piece of the jacket of Huoding Po is the most distinctive garment for dancing, originates from a loose large-front female jacket in Qing dynasty, and is a cross-shaped plane structure inherent in thousands of years in China. Except for dance wearing, the traditional garment is not worn by people at ordinary times, the cutting method of the ancient Huo Dingpo jacket is almost still the traditional Chinese folk lappet jacket cutting, the cut garment is wide and long, the armpit folds are many, the wearing habit of modern people is really not met, along with the development of society, due to the popularization and the shortage of the traditional national cutting method of the traditional Huo Dingpo jacket cutting, few people can use the traditional Huo Dingpo jacket, the folk traditional method is more suitable for the individual professor with a master and a father, the popularization is not facilitated, and the ancient cutting method is delayed for the further development of the Huo Dingpo jacket.

Referring to fig. 12 to 13, the hudingpo jacket manufactured by the conventional cutting method includes a jacket body, which is a body-connected (front and rear body-connected) sleeve-connected (body-sleeve-connected) jacket body, and the jacket body is an integral structure of a front garment piece 500 and a rear garment piece 600, and has no front and rear broken seams, and the main structure of the jacket is designed by using full-width cloth, so that the integrity of the cloth width is maintained as much as possible. During manufacturing, the front garment piece 500 is divided into a front left large garment piece 501 and a front right small garment piece 502 by the inclined front garment piece which is cut from the center of the front collar to the right underarm, a certain seam part is reserved on two sides of the style line of the front left large garment piece when sewing, the style line of the front left large garment piece 501 is spliced with the decorative edge 800, the seam part is sewn by 0.5cm, the front right small garment piece 502 is spliced with the back garment piece 700, and the seam is sewn by 0.5 cm.

Accordingly, the present inventors have made extensive studies to solve the above problems and have made the present invention.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothes which are more fit and comfortable to wear.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothes comprises the following steps:

step a, manufacturing a front garment piece template and a rear garment piece template, and manufacturing a front sleeve template and a rear sleeve template according to the front garment piece template and the rear garment piece template;

b, flatly placing the front garment piece template, the rear garment piece template, the front sleeve template and the rear sleeve template together, performing corresponding placing amount according to the style size, manufacturing a front garment piece with a front sleeve piece and a rear garment piece with a rear sleeve piece, cutting an oblique front cut on the front garment piece, dividing the front garment piece into a front left garment piece and a front right garment piece, and manufacturing an inner front according to the oblique front cut; manufacturing a decorative strip;

and c, sewing the front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the inner front and the decorative strip into a garment body, and sewing corresponding buttons.

In the scheme, the front garment piece template comprises a front neckline, a front shoulder line, a front sleeve arc line, a front central line, a front side seam line and a front bottom edge, wherein the direction of the front central line is longitudinal, the direction which is vertical to the longitudinal direction and in the front garment piece template is transverse, the front neckline is intersected with the front shoulder line, the intersection point is set as a front shoulder neck point, two ends of the front sleeve arc line are respectively intersected with the front shoulder line and the front side seam line, the intersection point of the front sleeve arc line and the front shoulder line is set as a front shoulder point, two ends of the front central line are respectively intersected with the front neckline and the front bottom edge, the front center line intersection point is set as a front central point, two ends of the front bottom edge are respectively intersected with the front side seam line and the front center line, a front chest surrounding line, a front hip surrounding line and a front fish tail line which are parallel to the front bottom edge are arranged on the front garment piece template, an upper flat line is 25cm downward of the front chest surrounding line, the lower 42.5cm of the upper flat line is a front waistline, the distance from the front crotch waistline to the front waistline is 10cm, the distance from the front hip waistline to the front waistline is 20cm, the distance from the front thigh waistline to the front waistline is 30cm, the distance from the front fishtail line to the front waistline is 40cm, the length of the front chest waistline is 23.5cm, the length of the front waistline is 20.5cm, the point 12cm below the intersection point of the front waistline and the front center line is set as a point A, and the length of the front fishtail line is 20.5 cm.

In the above scheme, the rear garment piece template comprises a rear neckline, a rear shoulder line, a rear arm hole arc line, a rear center line, a rear side seam line and a rear bottom edge, the rear neckline intersects with the rear shoulder line, the intersection point is a rear shoulder neck point, two ends of the rear arm hole arc line intersect with the rear shoulder line and the rear side seam line respectively, the intersection point of the rear arm hole arc line and the rear shoulder line is a rear shoulder point, two ends of the rear center line intersect with the rear neckline and the rear bottom edge respectively, the intersection point of the rear center line and the rear neckline is a rear center point, two ends of the rear bottom edge intersect with the rear side seam line and the rear center line respectively, a rear chest surrounding line, a rear waist surrounding line, a rear hip surrounding line, a rear thigh surrounding line and a rear fishtail line which are parallel to the rear bottom edge are arranged on the rear garment piece template, the vertical distance from the rear neck point to the rear chest surrounding line is 23.5cm, the vertical distance from the rear shoulder neck point to the rear waist surrounding line is 41cm, and the distance from the rear hip surrounding line to the rear waist surrounding line is 10cm, the distance from the back hip line to the back waist line is 20cm, the distance from the back thigh line to the back waist line is 30cm, the distance from the back fishtail line to the back waist line is 40cm, the length of the back chest line is 22cm, the length of the back waist line is 19.8cm, when the front bottom edge and the back bottom edge are aligned and typeset, the intersection point of the back hip line and the back center line is set as B, AB is connected, and 9.5cm is measured from A along AB and is the distance between the hips.

In the scheme, a front waist line is arranged on the front garment piece template, the shrinkage of the front waist line on the front waist line is 3cm, a rear waist line is arranged on the rear garment piece template, and the shrinkage of the rear waist line on the rear waist line is 4.4 cm.

In the scheme, the length of a front sleeve arc is set as front AH, the length of a back sleeve arc is set as back AH, the front sleeve template and the back sleeve template are manufactured by firstly drawing a line EF with the length of 53cm, drawing a line EG from an E point to ensure that the length of the line EG is equal to the front AH, the included angle between the line EG and the line EF is 45 degrees, drawing a line GD, the line GD is perpendicular to the line EF, drawing a line ED to ensure that the length of the line ED is equal to the back AH, copying the front sleeve arc, superposing one end of the bottom of the front sleeve arc with a G point, quartering the line EG, making an upward extending vertical line XM at a first bisection point, setting the length of the vertical line to be 2cm, setting the midpoint of the line EG to be an R point 0.5cm downward along the line EG, drawing a smooth arc according to G, the bottom of the front sleeve arc and R, M, E points, copying the back sleeve arc, and superposing one end of the bottom of the back sleeve arc with a D point, the method comprises the steps of quartering a line section EG, drawing a vertical line YN extending upwards at a first bisection point, wherein the length of the vertical line is 2cm, the middle point of the line section ED is downwards 2cm along the line section ED to be a point S, drawing a smooth arc line according to D and the bottom of a rear armhole arc line and S, N, E, drawing a straight line l perpendicular to a line section EF, passing a point F, drawing a vertical line of the straight line l through the point D and intersecting the straight line l at a point U, drawing a vertical line of the straight line l through the point G and intersecting the straight line l at a point V, cutting a rear sleeve template according to a point E, N, S, D, U, F, and cutting a front sleeve template according to a point E, F, V, G, R, M.

In the scheme, in the step b, the two front garment piece templates, the two rear garment piece templates, the two front sleeve templates and the two rear sleeve templates are flatly placed together, the E point of the front sleeve template corresponds to the front shoulder point of the front garment piece template, the E point of the rear sleeve template corresponds to the rear shoulder line of the rear garment piece template, and a gap is formed between the front sleeve template and the rear sleeve template.

After the technical scheme of the invention is adopted, the cutting method of the cross plane of the traditional Huding-woman clothes is changed, the front garment piece template, the rear garment piece template, the front sleeve template and the rear sleeve template are designed, and the front garment piece with the front sleeve piece and the rear garment piece with the rear sleeve piece are manufactured, so that the redundant wrinkle quantity between the front sleeve piece and the rear sleeve piece can be eliminated when the garment pieces are typeset, the excessive wrinkles generated under the armpits of the clothes are avoided, the Huding-woman clothes are more fit, in addition, the seam positions can be increased on the small right front garment piece, and the clothes fit caused by sewing the inner garment piece is avoided.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a basic frame diagram of a front panel template and a rear panel template in the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a design view of a front panel template and a rear panel template of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a first design process of front and rear sleeve panels according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing a second design process of front and rear sleeve panels according to the present invention.

Fig. 5 is a schematic structural view of a front garment panel template of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic view showing the structure of the front cut piece after transferring the dart of the template to the armhole.

Fig. 7 is a schematic structural view of a rear garment panel template of the present invention.

FIG. 8 is a schematic structural diagram of the correction of the anterior armhole arc and the posterior armhole arc according to the present invention.

Fig. 9 is a schematic structural view of a front sleeve template according to the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a schematic structural view of the back sleeve template of the present invention.

FIG. 11 is a diagram illustrating a layout structure according to the present invention.

Fig. 12 is a schematic structural view of a jacket of a Huodianpo garment in the prior art.

Fig. 13 is a schematic view of the prior art of the unfolding structure of the jacket of the hungpo garment.

FIG. 14 is a schematic view of the chest dart method of the present invention.

In the figure:

front collar line 101 of front cut piece template 100

Anterior shoulder line 102 anterior shoulder neck point 103

Front center point 104 front shoulder point 105

Anterior centerline 107 of anterior cuff arc 106

Front chest line 108 and front waist line 109

Front hip line 110 and front hip line 111

Front thigh welt 112 and front fishtail 113

Chest convex point 114 anterior chest circumference big point 115

Front waist line 116 upper side stitching 117

Lower side stitch 118 anterior side stitch 119

Back neckline 201 of back cut piece template 200

Posterior shoulder line 202 posterior shoulder-neck point 203

Back center point 204 back shoulder point 205

Posterior arm hole arc 206 posterior centerline 207

Back chest line 208 and back waist line 209

Back crotch contour 210 back hip contour 211

Rear thigh circumferential line 212 and rear fishtail line 213

Posterior bust point 214 posterior lumbar line 215

Rear upper side stitch 216 rear side stitch 217

Front sleeve template 300 and back sleeve template 400

Front panel 500, front left panel 501

Front right small garment piece 502 oblique front opening seam 503

Back cut piece 600 under 700

Decorative trim 800 void volume 900

Detailed Description

In order to further explain the technical solution of the present invention, the following detailed description is made with reference to the embodiments.

Referring to fig. 1 to 12, a method for manufacturing a Huoding dress comprises the following steps:

step a, manufacturing a front garment piece template 100 and a rear garment piece template 200, and manufacturing a front sleeve template 300 and a rear sleeve template 400 according to the front garment piece template 100 and the rear garment piece template 200;

b, flatly placing the front garment piece template 100, the rear garment piece template 200, the front sleeve template 300 and the rear sleeve template 400 together, carrying out corresponding placing amount according to the style size (namely expanding towards the periphery on the basis of the templates and being a common technology in garment design), manufacturing a front garment piece 500 with a front sleeve piece and a rear garment piece 600 with a rear sleeve piece, cutting an oblique front cut 503 on the front garment piece 500, dividing the front garment piece 500 into a front left large garment piece 501 and a front right small garment piece 502, and manufacturing an inner front 700 according to the oblique front cut 503; manufacturing a decorative strip 800;

and c, sewing the front garment piece 500, the rear garment piece 600, the inner garment piece 700 and the decorative strips 800 into a garment body, reserving two 18.5cm splits between the front garment piece 500 and the rear garment piece 600 in the garment body, and sewing corresponding disc buckles (not shown in the figure), wherein the number of the disc buckles is generally 5, and the disc buckles are distributed at the lap joint of the front left large garment piece 501 and the front right small garment piece 502 and the lap joint of the front left large garment piece 501 and the rear garment piece 600.

In the above scheme, the front garment piece template 100 includes a front neckline 101, a front shoulder line 102, a front sleeve arc line 106, a front center line 107, a front side seam line 119 and a front bottom edge, the direction of the front center line 107 is longitudinal, the direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction is transverse in the front garment piece template 100, the front neckline 101 intersects the front shoulder line 102, the intersection point is set as a front shoulder neck point 103, two ends of the front sleeve arc line 106 intersect the front shoulder line 102 and the front side seam line 119 respectively, the intersection point of the front sleeve arc line 106 and the front shoulder line 102 is set as a front shoulder point 105, two ends of the front center line 107 intersect the front neckline 101 and the front bottom edge respectively, the intersection point of the front center line 107 is set as a front center point 104, two ends of the front bottom edge intersect the front side seam line 119 and the front center line 107 respectively, and a front chest line 108, a front waist line 109, a front crotch line 110, a front hip line 111 and a front hip line 111 which are parallel to the front bottom edge are arranged on the front garment piece template 100, A front thigh surrounding line 112 and a front fishtail line 113, wherein the front fishtail line 113 is overlapped with the front bottom edge, an upper flat line is formed by passing through the front shoulder neck point 103, the upper flat line is 25cm below to form a front chest surrounding line 108, the upper flat line is 42.5cm below to form a front waist surrounding line 109, the distance from the front crotch surrounding line 110 to the front waist surrounding line 109 is 10cm, the distance from the front hip surrounding line 111 to the front waist surrounding line 109 is 20cm, the distance from the front thigh surrounding line 112 to the front waist surrounding line 109 is 30cm, the distance from the front fishtail line 113 to the front waist surrounding line 109 is 40cm, the length of the front chest surrounding line 108 is 23.5cm, the length of the front waist surrounding line 109 is 20.5cm, the point 12cm below the intersection point of the front waist surrounding line 109 and the front center line 107 is set as a point, and the length of the front fishtail line 113 is 20.5 cm. In the present invention, the outer contour of the front panel template 100 is defined by a front neckline 101, a front shoulder line 102, a front arm hole arc 106, a front center line 107 side, a front side seam line 119, and a front bottom side.

In the above scheme, the rear garment piece template 200 includes a rear neckline 201, a rear shoulder line 202, a rear arm hole arc line 206, a rear center line 207, a rear side seam line 217 and a rear bottom edge, the rear neckline 201 intersects the rear shoulder line 202, the intersection point is set as a rear shoulder neck point 203, two ends of the rear arm hole arc line 206 intersect the rear shoulder line 202 and the rear side seam line 217, the intersection point of the rear arm hole arc line 206 and the rear shoulder line 202 is set as a rear shoulder point 205, two ends of the rear center line 207 intersect the rear neckline 201 and the rear bottom edge, the intersection point of the rear center line 207 and the rear neckline 201 is set as a rear center point 204, two ends of the rear bottom edge intersect the rear side seam line 217 and the rear center line 207, a rear chest line 208, a rear waist line 209, a rear crotch line 210, a rear hip line 211, a rear thigh line 212 and a rear fish tail line 213 which are parallel to the rear bottom edge are provided on the rear garment piece template 200, the distance from the back shoulder neck point 203 to the back chest circumferential line 208 is 23.5cm, the distance from the back shoulder neck point 203 to the back waist circumferential line 209 is 41cm, the distance from the back crotch circumferential line 210 to the back waist circumferential line 209 is 10cm, the distance from the back hip circumferential line 211 to the back waist circumferential line 209 is 20cm, the distance from the back thigh circumferential line 212 to the back waist circumferential line 209 is 30cm, the distance from the back fishtail line 213 to the back waist circumferential line 209 is 40cm, the length of the back chest circumferential line 208 is 22cm, the length of the back waist circumferential line 209 is 19.8cm, when the front bottom edge and the back bottom edge are aligned and laid out, the intersection point of the back hip circumferential line 211 and the back center line 207 is set to be B, AB is connected, and 9.5cm is measured from A along AB as the crotch distance. The intersection of the anterior inferior suture 118 (described below) with line segment AB is C. The outer contour of the rear garment panel template 200 is defined by a rear neckline 201, a rear shoulder line 202, a rear arm hole arc 206, a rear center line 207, a rear side seam line 217 and a rear bottom edge.

In the above scheme, the front garment template 100 is provided with a front waist line 116, the amount of contraction of the front waist line 116 on the front waist line 109 is 3cm, the rear garment template 200 is provided with a rear waist line 215, the amount of contraction of the rear waist line 215 on the rear waist line 209 is 4.4cm, and both the front waist line 116 and the rear waist line 215 are quadrilateral.

In the above scheme, the length of the front arm hole arc 106 is set as front AH, the length of the back arm hole arc 206 is set as back AH, the front arm template 300 and the back arm template 400 are manufactured by drawing a line segment EF with a length of 53cm, drawing a line segment EG from the point E so that the length of the line segment EG is equal to the front AH, the included angle between the line segment EG and the line segment EF is 45 °, drawing a line segment GD perpendicular to the line segment EF, drawing a line segment ED so that the length of the line segment ED is equal to the back AH, copying the front arm hole arc 106, coinciding one end of the bottom of the front arm hole arc 106 with the point G, quartering the line segment EG, making an upward extending perpendicular XM at the first bisecting point, the length of the perpendicular is 2cm, setting the midpoint of the line segment EG downward 0.5cm along the line segment EG as the point R, drawing a smooth arc according to the points G, the bottom of the front arm hole arc 106, R, M, E, copying the back arm hole arc 206, and coinciding one end of the bottom of the back arm hole arc 206 with the point D, the method comprises the steps of quartering a line section EG, drawing a vertical line YN extending upwards at a first bisection point, wherein the length of the vertical line is 2cm, the middle point of the line section ED is determined as an S point along the line section ED by 2cm downwards, drawing a smooth arc line according to D and the bottom of a rear armhole arc line 206 and S, N, E, drawing a straight line l perpendicular to a line section EF, passing through F points, drawing a vertical line of the straight line l through the D point and intersecting the straight line l at U points, drawing a vertical line of the straight line l through G points and intersecting the straight line l at V points, cutting a rear sleeve template 200 according to E, N, S, D, U, F points, and cutting a front sleeve template 100 according to E, F, V, G, R, M points.

In the scheme, in the step b, the two front garment piece templates 100, the two rear garment piece templates 200, the two front sleeve templates 300 and the two rear sleeve templates 400 are flatly placed together, the E point of the front sleeve template 300 corresponds to the front shoulder point 105 of the front garment piece template 100, the E point of the rear sleeve template 400 corresponds to the rear shoulder line of the rear garment piece template 200, and the gap amount 900 is formed between the front sleeve template 300 and the rear sleeve template 400.

Specifically, the invention is designed by taking 160/84A as a specification, and the basic parameters are as follows:

front shoulder width: 34cm, back shoulder width: 36 cm; chest height: 25cm, the vertical distance from the front shoulder neck point 103 of the human body to the chest convex point 114 is measured downwards;

chest distance: the distance between the two chest salient points 114 is the chest distance, which is about 16-17 cm, and 17cm is taken; front waist section: 42.5cm, the distance from the shoulder and neck points of the human body to the front waistline 109 through the chest salient points 114; chest circumference: the net chest circumference is 84cm +4 (relaxation amount) ═ 88 cm; front chest width: 30cm, the narrowest distance from the left armhole to the right armhole; waist circumference: the length of the groove is 66cm,

the main parts of the invention are as follows:

1) design of collar: the collar of the human body is totally fitted, the loosening amount of the collar is generally 2cm, the collar is slightly comfortable and is more than 3cm, if the collar is not enough after the treatment, the collar is still deep after the treatment, the front collar is downwards opened, and the more the collar is opened, the more the collar is comfortable. The front collar is wide: 6cm, front collar depth: 7cm (6.5 cm-7 cm of human body, 7 cm).

2) Designing a shoulder slope line: the total shoulder inclination is 40 degrees, the front shoulder inclination is 22 degrees, and the front shoulder inclination is 18 degrees.

The width of the front shoulder of the cut piece is equal to the width of the front shoulder/2 is equal to 34cm/2 is equal to 17 cm; the panel front shoulder width is the lateral distance between the front center point 104 and the front shoulder point 105.

The back shoulder width of the cut piece is equal to the back shoulder width/2 +1 (scapular province) is equal to 19 cm; the panel back shoulder width is the lateral distance between the back center point 204 and the back shoulder point 205.

3) Designing a waist line: the upper flat line (a line passing through the shoulder point and extending transversely) is 42.5cm downward and is the waist line of the garment piece.

4) Designing a chest line: the upper horizontal line is 25cm below the chest line.

5) Crotch contour design: the crotch line is 10cm below the waist line.

6) Thigh contour design: the thigh part is arranged 30cm below the waist part.

7) Designing a fishtail line: the horizontal line with the waist line down 40cm is the fishtail line. The fishtail line is arranged according to the golden section proportion. When a flat shoe is worn at a distance from the waist of a human body to the ground, the distance is approximately 100cm, and 40cm is taken. The practical value is 39cm, and the modern people wear the shoes for more than 1cm, usually about 2-3 cm, so 40cm is taken. (the golden section is defined as dividing the whole into two, with the ratio of the larger portion to the whole portion being equal to the ratio of the smaller portion to the larger portion, which is approximately 0.618. this ratio is generally recognized as the most aesthetically pleasing ratio and is therefore referred to as the golden section.) the clothing on the market has either a high or low fish tail, but the reference points are designed in accordance with the golden section.

8) Anterior superior suture 117 design: the chest circumference of the female is larger than that of the female due to the breast hump. The chest circumference of the front garment piece template is larger than that of the rear garment piece template by adding the front part and subtracting the front-back difference of 1.5cm from the rear part. The chest circumference of the front cut piece template is large (net chest circumference 84cm +4cm relaxation amount)/4 +1.5cm (difference between front and back) is 23.5cm, and the vertical line from the front chest circumference large point 115 to the waist circumference line is the front upper side suture line 117.

9) Anterior inferior suture 118 design: due to the presence of the rear hip bulge, the rear hip circumference is larger than the front hip circumference, the front hip circumference is large (net hip circumference 90cm +4cm lofting amount)/4-1 cm (difference between front and back) is 22.5cm, the rear hip circumference is large (net hip circumference 90cm +4cm lofting amount)/4 +1cm (difference between front and back) is 24.5cm, and the vertical line from the front and back hip circumference boundary point to the waist circumference is the front lower side sewing line 118. Because the normal human body has the back hip convexity larger than the front chest convexity, the side seam line above the waistline and the side seam line below the waistline are not on the same straight line for the close fit clothes with the placing amount of only 4 cm.

10) Design of the back side stitch 216: because the waist is saved in the middle of the back and the tip is 6-8 cm on the back chest line 208, the chest loss of the back garment piece template 200 still needs to be increased by 1.5cm, and the amount saved by the waist is saved on the back chest line 208 is compensated. Namely, the chest circumference is large (net chest circumference 84cm +4cm relaxation amount)/4-1.5 cm (difference between front and back) +1.5cm (loss amount): 22 cm.

As shown in FIG. 2, a posterior superior side stitch 216 is formed by joining the posterior great thorax line 214 with point C, point A being a point 12cm below the intersection of the anterior centerline 107 and the lumbar line, and point B being the intersection of the posterior hip line 211 and the posterior centerline 207.

11) And (3) reserving chest dart: a point BP (i.e., a chest apex 114) was defined as 8.5cm (a chest distance/2 of 8.5cm) from the anterior center toward the lateral suture along the chest line. Most Asia body types, the distance from the chest circumference line to the underarm point is 3cm, the BP point is connected with the underarm point, and the BP point is connected with the underarm point by 3cm, so that the design of reserving chest dart amount is completed.

Position of the chest width point: between 1/2 points and 1/3 points (measured from the underarm point upward) from the anterior shoulder point to the perpendicular distance from the underarm point.

Referring to fig. 14, for tight-fitting or semi-tight-fitting clothing, the chest dart line is drawn, and in the specific operation, a piece of a paper is taken, so that the short side of the a4 paper coincides with the side seam line above the chest line, the long side coincides with the chest line, the a4 paper is rotated by taking the BP point as the center, the short side of the a4 paper intersects with the front shoulder point, and the angular point position of the a4 paper (namely, the intersection point of the long side and the short side of the a4 paper) is connected with the BP point, so that the chest dart line drawing is completed.

12) Crotch distance design: the crotch distance of a person is slightly larger than the breast distance, the crotch distance is 17cm/2+ 0.5-1 cm, 9-9.5 cm, and the crotch distance is 9.5cm measured from A along AB.

13) Designing the cut parts:

because the front of a normal female body is provided with a lower abdomen, the back waist collapses inwards, and the front waist circumference is larger than the back waist circumference. Therefore, the front panel template 100 is made to have a waist circumference larger than the rear panel template 200 by subtracting the difference of 1cm from the front to the rear. The front cut template 100 is 16.5cm +1cm (front-back difference) 16.5cm +1cm 17.5cm, and the back is 16.5cm-1cm (front-back difference) 16.5 cm-15.5 cm. The difference between the chest and waist of the front piece-the waist of the front piece-23.5 cm-17.5 cm-6 cm, and the difference is distributed in the front, middle and waist provinces and the side seams which are respectively contracted by 3 cm. The difference between the chest and the waist of the back piece is 22.1cm larger than the template of the back piece, the waist of the back piece is 15.5cm and 6.6cm, the waist of the front piece and the middle piece is 4.4cm in the left waist, and the waist of the front piece and the waist of the middle piece are 2.2cm in the side seam.

The waist midline of the front piece is designed as follows: the point of BP point which is vertically 2.5cm down is connected with the crotch distance point and is extended by 4cm to be the waist midline of the front part.

The waist center line design of the back piece: the point of the posterior greater/2 of the chest circumference, which is 1cm away from the posterior midline, is connected with the point of the posterior greater/2 of the hip circumference, which is 1cm away from the posterior midline, the point 7cm (6-7 cm) above the chest circumference line is the upper tip-saving point, and the point from the upper center line to the intersection point of the line AB is the lower tip-saving point.

14) Designing a lower hem: the fishtail line is put down, the front side seam and the rear side seam are respectively folded by 2cm, and the rear piece is folded by 1cm in the rear middle. The big front fish tail-2 cm-22.5 cm-2 cm-20.5 cm, the big back fish tail-2 cm-1 cm-21.5 cm. The front piece is slightly smaller, the front piece is smooth, the back piece is correspondingly larger, the hip is obviously convex, and the cheongsam wearing effect that the front chest is convex and the back hip is tilted is achieved.

Referring to fig. 5 and 6, the present invention also transfers the dart to the armhole dart, which is a conventional technique for garment design.

Design of the front sleeve template 300 and the back sleeve template 400:

referring to fig. 8, the front panel template 100 and the rear panel template 200 are put together under the armpit, the armpit descends by 2cm, the front and rear armhole arcs are redrawn, and the front armhole arc 106 (i.e., the front AH) arc length is measured to be 20.7cm, and the rear armhole arc 206 (i.e., the rear AH) arc length is measured to be 20.3 cm.

Referring to fig. 3 to 4, the sleeve is as long as about 53cm of the wrist, and the anterior AH is drawn: the front piece controls the angle firstly and then controls the length to obtain the sleeve height of 14.35 cm. The specific drawing method comprises the following steps: the middle line of the sleeve is drawn at first by 53cm, the included angle between the front AH20.3cm and the middle line of the sleeve is drawn by 45 degrees from the high point of the sleeve hill, and the included angle between the front AH and the front sleeve fertilizer is 45 degrees. The sleeves are cut along the sleeve center line to form a front sleeve template 300 and a back sleeve template 400 for designing the sleeves in the front. When the front garment piece and the rear garment piece are manufactured, the collar line is trimmed and the front shoulder line and the rear shoulder line are as long as each other.

During typesetting, as shown in fig. 11, the two front garment piece templates 100, the two rear garment piece templates 200, the two front sleeve templates 300 and the two rear sleeve templates 400 are placed together, the E point of the front sleeve template 300 corresponds to the front shoulder point 105 of the front garment piece template 100, the E point of the rear sleeve template 400 corresponds to the rear shoulder line of the rear garment piece template 200, and a gap 900 is formed between the front sleeve template 300 and the rear sleeve template 400 and can be adjusted correspondingly according to needs. The required sleeve length is drawn from the front shoulder point 105 and the back shoulder point 205 according to the style modeling, and the sleeve width, the sleeve bottom line, the side seam line and the hypocycloid are determined. The traditional folk 'ten' shaped plane cutting method leads out the length of the sleeve from the shoulder and neck point, leads out the length of the sleeve from the front shoulder point 105 and the back shoulder point 205, which is equivalent to removing the gap 9 between the shoulder and neck point and the shoulder point, and the gap causes the clothes to be transferred to the armpit after being worn on the human body, so that the armpit generates a plurality of folds to influence the beauty. The template is used for designing the jacket, the gap between the sleeve bottom line and the side seam line is clear at a glance, and the design is convenient, intuitive and accurate.

The product form of the present invention is not limited to the embodiments, and any suitable changes or modifications of the similar ideas by anyone should be considered as not departing from the patent scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothes is characterized by comprising the following steps:

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the front panel comprises a front neckline, a front shoulder line, a front arm arch, a front center line, a front side seam line and a front base line, wherein the front center line is oriented in a longitudinal direction, the front armhole arch is perpendicular to the longitudinal direction, the front armhole arch is oriented in a transverse direction in the front panel, the front neckline intersects the front shoulder line, the intersection point is a front shoulder neck point, two ends of the front arm arch intersect the front shoulder line and the front side seam line, the intersection point of the front arm arch line and the front shoulder line is a front shoulder point, two ends of the front center line intersect the front neckline and the front base line, the intersection point of the front center line is a front center point, two ends of the front base line intersect the front side seam line and the front center line, the front chest line, the front waist line, the front hip line, the front thigh line and the front fish tail line are parallel to the front base line, an upper flat line is made at the point of passing through the front shoulder and neck, a chest surrounding line is 25cm below the upper flat line, a front waist surrounding line is 42.5cm below the upper flat line, the distance from the front crotch surrounding line to the front waist surrounding line is 10cm, the distance from the front hip surrounding line to the front waist surrounding line is 20cm, the distance from the front thigh surrounding line to the front waist surrounding line is 30cm, the distance from the front fishtail line to the front waist surrounding line is 40cm, the length of the chest surrounding line is 23.5cm, the length of the front waist surrounding line is 20.5cm, a point 12cm below the intersection point of the front waist surrounding line and the front center line is set as a point A, and the length of the front fishtail line is 20.5 cm.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the rear panel comprises a rear neckline, a rear shoulder line, a rear armhole arc line, a rear center line, a rear side seam line, and a rear base, the rear neckline intersects the rear shoulder line at a rear shoulder-neck point, both ends of the rear armhole arc line intersect the rear shoulder line and the rear side seam line, respectively, the intersection point of the rear armhole arc line and the rear shoulder line is a rear shoulder point, both ends of the rear center line intersect the rear neckline and the rear base, respectively, the intersection point of the rear center line and the rear neckline is a rear center point, both ends of the rear base intersect the rear side seam line and the rear center line, respectively, a rear chest contour line, a rear waist contour line, a rear crotch contour line, a rear thigh contour line, and a rear tail line parallel to the rear base are provided on the rear panel, and a vertical distance from the rear shoulder-neck point to the rear chest contour line is 23.5cm, the vertical distance from the back shoulder-neck point to the back waist line is 41cm, the distance from the back crotch line to the back waist line is 10cm, the distance from the back hip line to the back waist line is 20cm, the distance from the back thigh line to the back waist line is 30cm, the distance from the back fishtail line to the back waist line is 40cm, the length of the back chest line is 22cm, the length of the back waist line is 19.8cm, when the front bottom edge and the back bottom edge are aligned and typeset, the intersection point of the back hip line and the back center line is set as B, AB is connected, and 9.5cm is measured from A along AB and is the crotch distance.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein a front waist line is provided on the front panel template, the shrinkage of the front waist line on the front waist line is 3cm, a rear waist line is provided on the rear panel template, and the shrinkage of the rear waist line on the rear waist line is 4.4 cm.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein the front sleeve arch line is front AH and the back sleeve arch line is back AH, the front sleeve template and the back sleeve template are made by drawing a first section EF and a second section ED of 53cm, drawing a first section EG from E to make the first section EG equal to the front AH in length, making an included angle between the first section EG and the second section EF 45 degrees, drawing a second section GD, making the second section GD perpendicular to the first section EF, drawing a second section ED so that the second section ED is equal to the back AH in length, copying the first section EG and making one end of the bottom of the front sleeve arch line coincide with the G point, quartering the second section EG, making an upward extending perpendicular XM at the first bisection point, the second section ED being 2cm in length, setting the midpoint of the second section EG to be the R point 0.5cm along the second section EG, and drawing an arc line smoothly according to G, R, M, E points on the bottom of the front sleeve arch line, copying a rear armhole arc line, enabling one end of the bottom of the rear armhole arc line to coincide with a point D, quartering a line segment EG, making an upward extending vertical line YN at a first bisecting point, enabling the length of the vertical line to be 2cm, enabling the midpoint of the line segment ED to be an S point along the downward 2cm of the line segment ED, drawing a smooth arc line according to the point D, the bottom of the rear armhole arc line and a point S, N, E, making a straight line l perpendicular to the line segment EF and passing through a point F, making a vertical line of the straight line l through the point D and intersecting the straight line l with the straight line l at the point U, making a vertical line of the straight line l through the point G and intersecting the straight line l at the point V, cutting out a rear sleeve template according to a point E, N, S, D, U, F, and cutting out a.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein in step b, the two front garment piece templates, the two rear garment piece templates, the two front sleeve templates and the two rear sleeve templates are placed together in a flat manner, and the E point of the front sleeve template corresponds to the front shoulder point of the front garment piece template, the E point of the rear sleeve template corresponds to the rear shoulder line of the rear garment piece template, and a gap is formed between the front sleeve template and the rear sleeve template.