CN115067600A - Three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's dresses - Google Patents
Three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's dresses Download PDFInfo
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- CN115067600A CN115067600A CN202210858776.1A CN202210858776A CN115067600A CN 115067600 A CN115067600 A CN 115067600A CN 202210858776 A CN202210858776 A CN 202210858776A CN 115067600 A CN115067600 A CN 115067600A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/04—Making patterns by modelling on the human body
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Abstract
The invention discloses a three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's dresses, which comprises the following steps: 1) putting a body on a tight-fitting leather garment, winding the body with fiber paper, and drying the fiber paper; 2) marking the base points on the fiber paper: neck and shoulder points a, shoulder end points b, neck pit points c, axillary points d, nipple points e, side waist points g, front waist midpoints f, abdomen salient points s, perineum midpoints h, thigh external points r, external foot ankle points k, internal foot ankle points j, back cervical vertebra points l, back scapula salient points m1, back width salient points m, back waist midpoints n, back hip salient points p, back elbow points q and wrist internal midpoints o; 3) connecting the basic points so as to draw a garment piece structure on the fiber paper, cutting off a sample piece along a drawing line, cutting out the province path of each part, and spreading to obtain sample pieces A, B, C, D, E respectively; 4) and cutting the model of the sample A, B, C, D, E according to the model number to obtain the final clothing sample. The invention can realize personalized and refined sample plate making.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of clothes, and particularly relates to a three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's clothes.
Background
In the traditional three-dimensional template manufacturing, the grey cloth is generally adopted to be cut on a mannequin, and the three-dimensional cutting on a human body is rarely adopted. The traditional three-dimensional cutting has the defects that the human body cannot be accurately matched with the mannequin, and the cut clothes have larger errors with all parts of the actual human body, in particular to the three-dimensional cutting of close-fitting clothes. The traditional three-dimensional cutting adopts an averaged mannequin, and cannot design and manufacture personalized body type clothes, which is just the defect of the traditional three-dimensional cutting that a prototype sample plate is difficult to control in a neck socket, a shoulder seam, an armhole, a chest, a waist, a hip, a crotch, legs and the like (namely, the prototype sample plate is difficult to control in the cutting process of scissors). In addition, the traditional plane cutting can not show the beauty of the female body finely, the structure of the clothes is not delicate enough, a plurality of calculation methods are needed, and the clothes making efficiency is not high.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's clothes, which can realize personalized and refined template making, is easy to cut and makes the clothes more fit.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's dresses comprises the following steps:
1) firstly, putting a body on a tight-fitting leather garment, then winding the body with fiber paper coated with paste, and then drying the fiber paper;
2) sequentially marking the following basic points on a human body wrapped with fiber paper: neck-shoulder point a, shoulder end point b, neck-pit point c, axillary point d, nipple point e, side-waist point g, front waist midpoint f, abdomen salient point s, perineum midpoint h, thigh outer point r, outer foot ankle point k, inner foot ankle point j, back cervical vertebra point l, back scapula salient point m1, back width salient point m, back waist midpoint n, back hip salient point p, back elbow point q and wrist inner midpoint o;
3) connecting the basic points so as to draw a garment piece structure on the fiber paper, cutting off a sample piece along a drawing line, cutting out the province path of each part, and spreading to obtain sample pieces A, B, C, D, E respectively;
4) and cutting according to the size of the human body on the basis of the model of the sample A, B, C, D, E to obtain a final clothing sample, wherein the type represents the chest circumference of the human body, and the size represents the height of the human body.
Further, the cutting process of the sample A is as follows: connecting a neck shoulder point a and a neck pit point c around the front neck of a human body by using an arc line to form a neckline radian, connecting the neck shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b by using a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line, connecting a shoulder end point b and an underarm point d around the root of the arm of the human body in the front chest direction by using the arc line to form a front sleeve vault radian, connecting the underarm point d and a side waist point g by using a straight line to form a side rib line of a sample piece, forming a front waist line of the sample piece by using a straight line front waist midpoint f and a side waist point g, connecting the front waist midpoint f and the neck pit point c by using a straight line to form a front center line of the sample piece, and taking a lower vertical line through a nipple point e to be crossed with the front waist line to form a front upper waist lane line; and the horizontal line is made to the left through a nipple point e and is intersected with the side rib line to form a front axillary dart line, the distance between the intersection point of the front axillary dart line and the side rib line and the axillary point d is 0.03125 multiplied, the shearing contour point of the sample A is formed by a, b, d, g, f and c, and the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional manner along the contour line of each part and the front axillary dart line and the front upper waist dart line are cut and tiled to form the sample A.
Further, the cutting process of the sample B is as follows: connecting a front waist midpoint f and a side waist point g by a straight line to form a front trouser piece waist circumferential line, connecting the side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by an arc line to form a front trouser piece side seam line, connecting the front waist midpoint f and a perineum midpoint h by the straight line to form a front trouser piece crotch line, making a straight line upward through an abdomen salient point s to be crossed on the front trouser piece waist circumferential line, and enabling the intersection point of the front waist circumferential line and the front upper waist lane line to coincide with the intersection point of the front waist circumferential line and the front upper waist lane line to form a front trouser piece lower waist lane line; the cutting contour points of the sample B are formed by f, g, r, k, j and h, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of all parts, waist lane lines are cut off, and the sample B is formed after the fiber paper is laid flatly.
Further, the cutting process of the sample C is as follows: connecting a neck and shoulder point a and a back cervical vertebra point l around the back neck of the human body by using an arc line to form a back neckline radian, connecting the neck and shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b by using a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line of the sample wafer, connecting a shoulder end point b and an armpit point d around the root part of the arm of the human body in the backward chest direction by using an arc line to form a back armhole radian, and connecting an armpit point d and a side waist point g by using a straight line to form a side rib line of the sample wafer; connecting the back waist midpoint n and the side waist point g by a straight line to form a back waist line; the back waist midpoint n and the back cervical vertebra point l are connected by a straight line to form a back central line of the sample wafer, a back wide salient point m is used as a down vertical line to be crossed on a back waistline to form a back upper waist dart line, a back scapula salient point m1 is used as a vertical line to a shoulder oblique line to form a back shoulder dart line, the shearing contour point of the sample wafer C is formed by a, b, d, g, n and l, and the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional manner along the contour line of each part and the back shoulder dart line and the back upper waist dart line are cut and tiled to form the sample wafer C.
Further, the cutting process of the sample D is as follows: connecting a back waist midpoint n and a side waist point g by a straight line to form a back trouser piece waist circumferential line, connecting the side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by an arc line to form a back trouser piece model side stitch line, connecting the back waist midpoint n and a perineum midpoint h by a straight line to form a back trouser piece model crotch line, making a straight line upward through a back hip salient point p to be crossed on the back trouser piece waist circumferential line, and enabling the intersection point of the back waist midpoint n and the intersection point of the back upper waist line to coincide with the intersection point of the back waist circumferential line to form a back trouser piece lower waist lane line; the cutting contour points of the sample D are composed of n, g, r, k, j and h, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of all parts, waist lane lines are cut off, and the sample D is formed after the fiber paper is laid flat;
further, the cutting process of the sample wafer E is as follows: the armpit points d and the shoulder end points b are connected by radian lines around the root part of the human body arm to form arm model sleeve hill arc lines, the armpit points d, the posterior elbow points q and the wrist inner midpoint o are sequentially connected by radian lines around the center of the inner side of the human body arm to form arm model sleeve inner side suture lines, a straight line is made from the posterior elbow points q to the sleeve inner side suture lines to form posterior sleeve elbow province lines, the degree of the included angle between the posterior sleeve elbow points q and the human body sleeve elbow line is 0.1875, and the sleeve elbow province line is positioned on one side close to the wrist of the human body; and the sheared contour points of the sample E consist of b, d, q and o, the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional way along the contour lines of all parts, the elbow trace of the sleeve is cut off, and the sample E is formed after the sample E is tiled.
Further, the amount-setting cutting process of the sample A for manufacturing the blouse comprises the following steps: the front center of the sample A is horizontally placed to the left to form a vertical line reaching the door and is lengthened below the lower edge, the placing width is 0.0125 multiplied by number, and the lengthening amount is 0.2 multiplied by number; taking a dead point reaching a portal vertical line to the right as a first horizontal line, widening an oxter point d to the right for chest circumference widening amount, wherein the chest circumference widening amount is 0.0125 multiplied, taking a point d at a position 2 cm to the right as a front piece basic side suture to enable the point d to intersect with the first horizontal line to form a front piece lower hem right angle, descending 1.0 cm downwards from the starting point of the front piece basic side suture to serve as a shirt armhole deepening amount, the deepening amount is 0.00625 multiplied, connecting a 1.0 cm point and a shoulder end point b in a manner of drawing an armhole radian to form a modified shirt armhole structure of the shirt, setting the shoulder and the neck pit structure of the shirt to be the same as those of the peeling sample A, setting the waist of the shirt at a side seam to be retracted inwards, setting the retracting amount to be 0.009375 multiplied, the warping amount to be 0.009375 multiplied, setting a lower hem 0.009375 multiplied line segment as a lower arc shape, and setting the lower side suture as an outer bending line; setting two side lines of an oxter province path to extend to the position where the upper side sewing lines intersect, setting the oxter province tip distance nipple point e to be 0.01875 multiplied, setting the upper waist province tip distance nipple point e to be 0.01875 multiplied, setting the lower waist province and the upper waist province of the female shirt to be symmetrical up and down relative to the waist line, and finishing the front garment piece of the female shirt;
the amount-releasing cutting process of the sample C for manufacturing the female shirt comprises the following steps: lengthening the lower edge of the rear center of the sample C, wherein the lengthening amount is 0.2 multiplied, taking the dead point of a lengthened line segment to the right as a second horizontal line, widening the underarm point d to the right for widening the chest circumference, the widening amount is 0.0125 multiplied, taking the basic side suture of the front piece) to intersect with the second horizontal line to form a right angle of the lower hem of the rear cut piece, descending 1.0 cm downwards on the basic side suture of the front piece to form the armhole deepening amount of the shirt, the deepening amount is 0.00625 multiplied by 160, connecting the 1.0 cm point and the shoulder end point b in a manner of drawing the radian of the armhole to form a modified armhole structure of the female shirt, the shoulder and the collarband structure of the female shirt are the same as those of the peeled sample C, and setting the female shirt to be retracted inwards at the waist part of the side seam, and the retraction amount is 0.009375 multiplied; the lower hem is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the lower hem is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the bottom hem line segment is set to be in a lower arc shape, the lower side suture line is an outer curved line, the scapula convex point m1 is 0.009375 multiplied after the distance between the tip of the back shoulder province and the tip of the back shoulder province is set, the back width convex point m is 0.0125 multiplied after the distance between the tip of the upper waist province and the tip of the upper waist province of the female shirt is set, the lower waist province and the upper waist province of the female shirt are vertically symmetrical about a waist line, and thus the rear cut piece of the female shirt is finished;
the volume-releasing cutting process of the sample piece E for manufacturing the female shirt comprises the following steps: widening 0.00375 times to the left and the right by the underarm point d of the sample E respectively; the left side of the cuff is widened by 0.0125X, the right side of the cuff is widened by 0.00375X, the bottom edge of the cuff is lengthened by 0.00625X, the distance q point of the elbow and elbow province tip is 0.009375X, and thus the sleeve piece of the blouse is finished;
further, the volume-saving cutting process of the sample B for manufacturing the jeans comprises the following steps: the outer side of the waist of the peeled sample B is measured by 0.003125 multiplied by number, the right side of the crotch line is measured by 0.009375 multiplied by number, the right side of the trouser opening is measured by 0.01875 multiplied by number, the lower side of the trouser opening is measured by 0.009375 multiplied by 160 number, the loose quantity of the waist tip-saving distance s point is 0.0125 multiplied by number, the crotch line, the waist line and the inner line are set to be corresponding to the same model, and the front trouser piece of the jeans is finished up to this point;
the volume-releasing cutting process of the sample piece D for manufacturing the jeans comprises the following steps: the waist circumference outside relaxation measurement of the sample D is 0.003125X, and the right side of the crotch line is 0.009375X; the relaxation on the left side of the crosspiece line is measured by 0.00625 multiplied by number; the relaxation measurement on the right of the trouser opening is 0.01875 multiplied by number, the relaxation measurement on the left of the trouser opening is 0.00625 multiplied by number, the length measurement on the lower side of the trouser opening is 0.009375 multiplied by number, the relaxation measurement on the point p of the waist dart point is 0.0125 multiplied by number, the corresponding correspondence of a back crotch line and a waist surrounding line is set to be the same as that of the model, and thus, the back piece of the female jeans is completed.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following technical effects:
the invention changes the traditional three-dimensional cutting method, does not need to adopt a data drawing method to manufacture the sample, utilizes the fiber paper wrapping method to be beneficial to showing the fine characteristics of the human body, cuts the fiber paper sample plate more conveniently, carries out the fine sample plate manufacture on the clothes, improves the personalized design of the clothes, calculates the quantitative data according to the model of the human body on the fiber paper sample plate, cuts the clothes in quantitative, can continuously design and manufacture the clothes with different shapes, and simplifies the drawing.
By the fiber paper sample plate, a mannequin formed by fiber paper can be continuously recovered, and the mannequin conforming to the individual characteristics is manufactured, is convenient for subsequent three-dimensional cutting, and is suitable for personalized custom-made clothes; meanwhile, a mannequin model with a posture can be constructed by utilizing the fiber paper template and is used for displaying the clothing effect in a number-changing manner. Moreover, the fiber paper mannequin introduced animation system can also produce three-dimensional animated characters.
Drawings
FIG. 1: the invention is a personalized human body diagram;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram: a schematic view of the tights of the present invention being worn;
FIG. 3: the schematic diagram of the fiber paper of the invention wrapping the human body is 1;
FIG. 4: the schematic diagram of the fiber paper of the invention wrapping the human body is shown in figure 2;
FIG. 5: the schematic diagram 3 of the fiber paper of the invention wrapping the human body;
FIG. 6: the human body points of the invention are drawn schematically in figure 1;
FIG. 7: the human body points of the invention are drawn schematically in figure 2;
FIG. 8: the drawing of the three-dimensional template is shown in a schematic diagram 1;
FIG. 9: the drawing of the three-dimensional template is shown in a schematic diagram 2;
FIG. 10: the drawing of the three-dimensional template is shown in a schematic diagram 3;
FIG. 11: the front piece structure of the female shirt of the invention is schematic;
FIG. 12: the structure of the back piece of the female shirt is shown schematically;
FIG. 13: the structure of the shirt sleeve of the invention is shown schematically;
FIG. 14: the structure of the front piece of the jeans is schematically shown;
FIG. 15: the structure of the back piece of the jeans is schematic;
FIG. 16: the structure of the collar of the female shirt is shown schematically;
FIG. 17: the effect of the female shirt and the jeans are schematically shown.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be explained in further detail with reference to examples.
The present embodiment is cut according to the size 160/84 of human body, wherein the size represents the chest circumference of human body, the number represents the height of human body, and the measuring units are centimeters.
As shown in figures 1-5, a method for three-dimensionally cutting an upper and a lower women's clothes comprises the steps of firstly wearing a personal tight-fitting leather garment (required to show the body shape characteristics of a woman), then standing naturally, then wrapping the body with fiber paper, and requiring that the shoulder, the chest circumference, the neck, the waist, the hip, the arms and the lower limbs of the body are sequentially wrapped, wherein the wrapping thickness of the fiber paper is uniform, the fiber paper is generally wrapped by 3-4 layers and cannot be wrinkled, and then drying the body with a blower.
As shown in fig. 6 to 7, the basic points are marked on the human body wrapped with the fiber paper in sequence: a neck-shoulder point a (i.e., the central portion of the front-back thickness of the neck), a shoulder point b (i.e., the reverse center of the shoulder thickness), a neck-socket point c (i.e., the neck-socket of the human body), an underarm point d (i.e., the center of the underarm thickness of the human body and shifted down 2.0 cm, calculated as 0.0125 × 160), a nipple point e (i.e., the breast high point of the human body), a side waist point g (i.e., the center of the side waist thickness of the human body), a front waist midpoint f (i.e., the center of the front waist of the human body, which is horizontal to the side waist point g), a belly convex point s (i.e., the belly high point on one side of the human body), a perineum midpoint h (i.e., the central point of the front-back thickness inside the thigh root), a thigh outer foot ankle point k (i.e., the central point of the front-back thickness outside the thigh root), an inner foot ankle point j (i.e., the front-back thickness inside the inner foot root), Posterior cervical spine point l (i.e., seventh vertebral point), posterior scapula bump m1 (i.e., human dorsal scapula bump), back width bump m (i.e., 1/2 central point of human back width), posterior waist midpoint n (i.e., center of human back waist, laterally at the same horizontal plane as lateral waist point g), posterior hip bump p (i.e., human posterior hip bump), posterior elbow point q (i.e., human posterior elbow joint point), and intra-wrist midpoint o (i.e., human wrist joint internal midpoint), which are used to draw basic sample pieces.
As shown in fig. 6-10, drawing an arc line of the front neckline and connecting a neck and shoulder point a and a neck and shoulder point c around the front neck of a human body by the arc line to form a curvature of the neckline radian of the sample; connecting a neck shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b at the center of the thickness of the shoulder of the human body by a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line of the sample wafer; connecting a shoulder end point b and an underarm point d around the root of the arm of the human body in the anterior chest direction by using an arc line to form a front sleeve cavity radian with curvature; the armpit point d and the side waist point g are connected by a straight line at the center of the thickness of the rib part of the human body to form a side rib line (namely, a side waist line) of the sample sheet; connecting a front waist midpoint f and a side waist point g at the transverse thin part of the waist of the human body by a straight line to form a front waist contour of the sample; connecting a front waist midpoint f and a neck pit point c at the longitudinal waist thin part of the front central part of the human body by a straight line to form a front central line of the sample wafer; making a down-vertical line through a nipple point e and crossing the waist line to form a front upper waist dart line; the anterior axillary dart line is formed by making a straight line passing through the nipple point e to the left and intersecting with the lateral rib line (i.e., the lateral waist line), and the intersection point of the anterior axillary dart line and the lateral rib line is 5.0 cm away from the axillary point d (the calculation method is 0.03125 × 160). The cutting contour points of the sample A are formed by a, b, d, g, f and c, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of the respective parts, the sample A is torn off, the front underarm lane line and the front upper waist lane line are cut off and unfolded into a plane, the sample A is obtained, and the cutting contour points can be used for cutting other women dresses, for example: basic models of feminine undergarments, shirts, suits, coats, and coats.
Connecting a neck shoulder point a and a back cervical vertebra point l by using an arc line around the back neck of the human body to form a sample piece back neckline radian with curvature; connecting a neck shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b at the center of the thickness of the shoulder of the human body by a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line of the sample wafer; connecting a shoulder end point b and an armpit point d around the root part of the arm of the human body towards the back chest direction by using an arc line to form a back armhole radian with curvature; the armpit point d and the side waist point g are connected by a straight line at the center of the thickness of the rib part of the human body to form a side rib line (namely, a side waist line) of the sample sheet; connecting a back waist midpoint n and a side waist point g at the transverse thin part of the waist of the human body by a straight line to form a back waist line of the sample wafer; connecting a back waist midpoint n and a back cervical vertebra point l at a longitudinal waist thin part of a back central part of a human body by using a straight line to form a back central line of the sample wafer; a lower perpendicular line is crossed on the rear waistline line by the rear wide salient point m to form a rear upper waist dart line; a perpendicular line is drawn from the rear scapula convex point m1 to the oblique line of the shoulder to form a rear shoulder dart line; the cutting contour points of the sample C are formed by a, b, d, g, n and l, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of the respective positions, the sample C is torn off, the back shoulder dart line and the back upper waist dart line are cut off and unfolded to form a plane, the sample C is obtained, and the cutting contour points can be used for cutting other women dresses, for example: basic models of feminine undergarments, shirts, suits, coats, and coats.
Connecting the front waist midpoint f and the side waist midpoint g by straight lines around the thin part of the front waist circumference of the human body to form a front trouser model waist circumference line; connecting a side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by arc lines around side seams (namely, waist side, hip side, leg side and ankle side) of the human body to form a front trouser model side seam; connecting the front waist midpoint f and the perineum midpoint h by a straight line around the center of the front abdomen of the human body to form a front piece model crotch line; the abdomen salient points s are crossed on the waist line in a straight line upwards, and the intersection point is superposed with the intersection point of the front waist line and the front upper waist lane line to form a lower waist lane line of the front pants piece; the cut contour points of the sample B are formed by f, g, r, k, j and h, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of the respective parts, the sample B is torn off, the lower waist lane line is cut off, and the sample B is unfolded into a plane to obtain the sample B, and the sample B can be used for cutting other women's undergarments, for example: basic models for feminine undergarments, jeans, western style pants, pantyhose, sport pants, and horse pants.
Connecting the back waist midpoint n and the side waist point g by straight lines around the thin part of the back waist of the human body to form a back trouser model waist line; connecting a side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by arc lines around side seams (namely, waist side, hip side, leg side and ankle side) of the human body to form a side seam of the rear trouser piece model; connecting a back waist midpoint n and a perineum midpoint h by straight lines around the center of the back waist of the human body to form a back trouser model crotch line; the back hip salient points p are crossed on the waist line in a straight line upwards, and the intersection points of the back hip salient points p coincide with the intersection points of the back upper waist line and the back waist line to form a back trouser piece lower waist line; the cutting contour points of the sample D are composed of n, g, r, k, j and h, and the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional way along the contour lines of the respective parts; tearing the sample D and cutting off the lower waist dart line to unfold into a plane to obtain the sample D, which can be used for cutting other women lower garments, for example: basic models for feminine undergarments, jeans, western style pants, pantyhose, sport pants, and horse pants.
Connecting an armpit point d and a shoulder end point b by using a radian line (namely, an S-shaped arc line) around the root part of the arm of the human body to form an arm model armpit arc line; connecting an underarm point d, a back elbow point q and an inner wrist midpoint o by using a radian line around the inner side center of the arm of the human body to form an inner side suture line of the arm model sleeve; making a straight line from a posterior elbow point q to the suture line on the inner side of the sleeve to form a posterior elbow-sparing line, wherein the degree of an included angle between the posterior elbow-sparing line and the elbow-sparing line of the human body sleeve is 30 degrees in the anticlockwise direction, the elbow-sparing line is positioned on one side close to the wrist of the human body, and the calculation method is 0.1875 x 160; the cutting contour points of the sample E are composed of b, d, q and o, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of the respective parts, the sample E is torn off, the elbow line of the sleeve is cut open, and the sample E is unfolded into a plane, so that the sample E is obtained, and the sample E can be used for cutting sleeves of other women dresses, for example: female underlinen sleeves, shirt sleeves, western-style sleeves, outer sleeves, and coat sleeves.
In one aspect, the process of fit cutting for making a blouse of the dailies A, C, E is as follows:
as shown in FIG. 6 and FIG. 11, the peeled sample A is a basic model, the front center of the peeled sample A is widened leftwards by 2.0 cm (calculation method; 0.0125X 160), a door vertical line is made, the lower garment length is lengthened to 32 cm at the lower edge, and the calculation method is 0.2X 160; the dead point of a 32 cm line segment is used as a first horizontal line to the right, the armpit point d of the peeled sample A is widened to the right by 2.0 cm, and the calculation method is 0.0125 multiplied by 160 and is used for the chest circumference widening amount; a downward perpendicular line (namely, a stitch line on the basic side of the front piece) is made at the position 2 cm to the right of the point d, so that the downward perpendicular line is intersected with a first horizontal line to form a lower hem right angle of the front piece; setting the starting point of the basic side seam line of the front piece widened by 2.0 cm to descend downwards by 1.0 cm as the armhole deepening amount of the shirt, wherein the calculation method is 0.00625 multiplied by 160, and connecting a 1.0 cm point and a shoulder end point b by adopting a mode of drawing the radian of the armhole to form a modified armhole structure of the female shirt; the shoulder and the neck nest structures of the female shirt are the same as those of the peeling sample A; setting the waist of the shirt at the side seam to be retracted by 1.5 cm inwards by a calculation method of 0.009375X 160; warping by 1.5 cm, and the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160; the lower hem is 1.5 cm, and the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160; setting a bottom edge warping line segment as a lower arc model, and setting a lower side suture line as an outer bend line; setting two side lines of the axillary province path to extend to the position where the upper side suture lines intersect, wherein the distance between the axillary province center and the nipple point e is 3.0 cm, and the calculation method is 0.01875 multiplied by 160; the distance e between the upper waist province and the tip of the upper waist province of the female shirt and the nipple point is set to be 3.0 cm, the calculation method is 0.01875 multiplied by 160, the lower waist province and the upper waist province of the female shirt are vertically symmetrical, and the front garment piece structure of the female shirt is completed.
As shown in fig. 6 and 12, the lower clothes length is lengthened to 32 cm below the rear center of the peeled sample C, and the calculation method is carried out; 0.2 multiplied by 160, a second horizontal line is made rightwards by the dead point of a 32 cm line segment, an armpit point d is widened rightwards by 2.0 cm for the chest circumference widening amount, the calculation method is 0.0125 multiplied by 160, and a lower vertical line (namely, the basic side suture line of the front piece) is made to intersect with the second horizontal line to form a lower hem right angle of the rear garment piece; setting the basic side seam of the front piece widened by 2.0 cm to descend by 1.0 cm downwards as the armhole deepening amount of the shirt, and calculating a method; 0.00625 × 160, connecting a 1.0 cm point and a shoulder end point b by adopting a mode of drawing armhole radian to form a modified armhole structure of the female shirt, wherein the shoulder and neck pit structures of the female shirt are the same as those of the peeling sample C; setting the waist of the shirt at the side seam to be retracted by 1.5 cm inwards by a calculation method of 0.009375X 160; the warping is 1.5 cm, the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the lower hem is 1.5 cm, the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the bottom edge warping line segment is set to be in a lower arc shape, the lower side suture line is an outer bend line, the shoulder blade convex point m1 is 1.5 cm after the distance between the upper shoulder point and the lower shoulder point is set, the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the distance between the upper waist point and the lower waist point of the blouse is set to be 2.0 cm, the calculation method is 0.0125 multiplied by 160, the lower waist point and the upper waist point of the blouse are vertically symmetrical, and the structure of the shirt back cut piece of the blouse is completed.
As shown in fig. 7 and 13, the armpit points d of the peeled sample E are widened by 0.6 cm to the left and right, respectively, in a manner of 0.00375 × 160; widening the left side of the cuff to 2.0 cm, calculating by 0.0125 × 160, widening the right side of the cuff to 0.6 cm, calculating by 0.00375 × 160, lengthening the bottom edge of the cuff by 1.0 cm, calculating by 0.00625 × 160, shortening the distance q point between the elbow and the elbow, calculating by 0.009375 × 160, and thus completing the sleeve structure.
As shown in fig. 16, the collar of the shirt is finished by a conventional plane drawing method, and drawing points are set: the collar upper central point t, the collar lower central point u, the collar lower warping point t1, the collar upper point x, the collar lower point y, the collar length point x1, the collar lower warping point z and the collar lower tangent point w 1. The collar length line segment uy is tx front collar nest arc length + rear collar nest arc length (data is obtained through actual measurement, the collar width line segment tu is xy 10 cm, the calculation method is 0.0625 × 160, the collar raising line segment ut1 is zy 1.0 cm, the calculation method is 0.00625 × 160, the collar line segment xx1 is 2.0 cm, the calculation method is 0.0125 × 160, the tangent point w1 is located at the right third of the line segment uy, the s-arc connection points u, w1 and z form a collar bottom arc, and the collar contour is composed of points t, x1, z, w1 and t1 and is used for manufacturing a collar.
On the other hand, the volume tailoring process for making jeans for women based on dailies B, D is as follows:
as shown in fig. 6, 7 and 14, a peeling sample sheet B is set as a basic model, 0.5 cm is placed on the outer side of the waist of the peeling sample sheet B as the loose measure, the calculation method is 0.003125 × 160, 1.5 cm is placed on the right side of the crotch line as the loose measure, the calculation method is No. 0.009375 × 160, 3.0 cm is placed on the right side of the trouser crotch as the loose measure, the calculation method is No. 0.01875 × 160, 1.5 cm is placed on the lower side of the trouser crotch as the long measure, the calculation method is No. 0.009375 × 160, the s point of the waist-saving tip distance is 2.0 cm as the loose measure, and the calculation method is No. 0.0125 × 160; and setting the corresponding of the crotch line, the waist line and the inner side line to be the same as the model, thereby completing the front piece structure of the jeans for women.
As shown in fig. 6, 7 and 15, the loose measurement of 0.5 cm was set on the outer side of the waist circumference of the peeled sample sheet D, and the calculation method was 0.003125 × 160; placing 1.5 cm at the right side of the transverse crotch line, and the calculation method is 0.009375 multiplied by 160; the looseness is measured by placing 1.0 cm on the left side of the crosspiece line, and the calculation method is 0.00625 multiplied by 160; 3.0 cm is placed on the right side of the trouser leg opening, the calculation method is 0.01875 × 160, the loose measurement is 1.0 cm on the left side, the calculation method is 0.00625 × 160, the length measurement is 1.5 cm placed on the lower side of the trouser leg opening, the loose measurement is 0.009375 × 160, the point p of the waist tip saving distance is 2.0 cm, and the calculation method is 0.0125 × 160; and setting the corresponding of the back crotch line and the waist line to be the same as the model, so as to complete the structure of the back piece of the jeans for women.
As shown in fig. 17, the human body fitting effect of the front panel of the shirt, the rear panel of the shirt, the sleeve panel and the neck panel of the shirt, and the shirt and the jeans made by sewing the front panel of the jeans and the rear panel of the jeans according to the cutting method of the present embodiment is shown as a schematic view.
Claims (8)
1. A three-dimensional cutting method for upper and lower women's dresses is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) firstly, putting a body on a tight-fitting leather garment, then winding the body with fiber paper coated with paste, and then drying the fiber paper;
2) sequentially marking the following basic points on a human body wrapped with fiber paper: neck and shoulder points a, shoulder end points b, neck pit points c, axillary points d, nipple points e, side waist points g, front waist midpoints f, abdomen salient points s, perineum midpoints h, thigh external points r, external foot ankle points k, internal foot ankle points j, back cervical vertebra points l, back scapula salient points m1, back width salient points m, back waist midpoints n, back hip salient points p, back elbow points q and wrist internal midpoints o;
3) connecting the basic points so as to draw a garment piece structure on the fiber paper, cutting off a sample piece along a drawing line, cutting out the province path of each part, and spreading to obtain sample pieces A, B, C, D, E respectively;
4) and cutting according to the size of the human body on the basis of the model of the sample A, B, C, D, E to obtain a final clothing sample, wherein the type represents the chest circumference of the human body, and the size represents the height of the human body.
2. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 1, wherein the cutting process of the sample A is as follows: connecting a neck shoulder point a and a neck pit point c around the front neck of a human body by using an arc line to form a neckline radian, connecting the neck shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b by using a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line, connecting a shoulder end point b and an underarm point d around the root of the arm of the human body in the front chest direction by using the arc line to form a front sleeve vault radian, connecting the underarm point d and a side waist point g by using a straight line to form a side rib line of a sample piece, forming a front waist line of the sample piece by using a straight line front waist midpoint f and a side waist point g, connecting the front waist midpoint f and the neck pit point c by using a straight line to form a front center line of the sample piece, and taking a lower vertical line through a nipple point e to be crossed with the front waist line to form a front upper waist lane line; and the horizontal line is made to the left through a nipple point e and is intersected with the side rib line to form a front axillary dart line, the distance between the intersection point of the front axillary dart line and the side rib line and the axillary point d is 0.03125 multiplied, the shearing contour point of the sample A is formed by a, b, d, g, f and c, and the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional manner along the contour line of each part and the front axillary dart line and the front upper waist dart line are cut and tiled to form the sample A.
3. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 2, wherein the cutting process of the sample B is as follows: connecting a front waist midpoint f and a side waist point g by a straight line to form a front trouser piece waist circumferential line, connecting the side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by an arc line to form a front trouser piece side seam line, connecting the front waist midpoint f and a perineum midpoint h by the straight line to form a front trouser piece crotch line, making a straight line upward through an abdomen salient point s to be crossed on the front trouser piece waist circumferential line, and enabling the intersection point of the front waist circumferential line and the front upper waist lane line to coincide with the intersection point of the front waist circumferential line and the front upper waist lane line to form a front trouser piece lower waist lane line; the cutting contour points of the sample B are formed by f, g, r, k, j and h, fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional mode along the contour lines of all parts, waist lane lines are cut off, and the sample B is formed after the fiber paper is laid flatly.
4. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 3, wherein the cutting process of the sample C is as follows: connecting a neck and shoulder point a and a back cervical vertebra point l around the back neck of the human body by using an arc line to form a back neckline radian, connecting the neck and shoulder point a and a shoulder end point b by using a straight line to form a shoulder oblique line of the sample wafer, connecting a shoulder end point b and an armpit point d around the root part of the arm of the human body in the backward chest direction by using an arc line to form a back armhole radian, and connecting an armpit point d and a side waist point g by using a straight line to form a side rib line of the sample wafer; connecting the back waist midpoint n and the side waist point g by a straight line to form a back waist line; the back waist midpoint n and the back cervical vertebra point l are connected by a straight line to form a back central line of the sample wafer, a back wide salient point m is used as a down vertical line to be crossed on a back waistline to form a back upper waist dart line, a back scapula salient point m1 is used as a vertical line to a shoulder oblique line to form a back shoulder dart line, the shearing contour point of the sample wafer C is formed by a, b, d, g, n and l, and the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional manner along the contour line of each part and the back shoulder dart line and the back upper waist dart line are cut and tiled to form the sample wafer C.
5. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 4, wherein the cutting process of the dailies D is as follows: connecting a back waist midpoint n and a side waist point g by a straight line to form a back trouser piece waist circumferential line, connecting the side waist point g, a thigh outer point r and an outer ankle point k by an arc line to form a back trouser piece model side stitch line, connecting the back waist midpoint n and a perineum midpoint h by a straight line to form a back trouser piece model crotch line, making a straight line upward through a back hip salient point p to be crossed on the back trouser piece waist circumferential line, and enabling the intersection point of the back waist midpoint n and the intersection point of the back upper waist line to coincide with the intersection point of the back waist circumferential line to form a back trouser piece lower waist lane line; and the shearing contour points of the sample D consist of n, g, r, k, j and h, the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional way along the contour lines of all parts, the waist-saving lines are cut, and the sample D is formed after being tiled.
6. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 5, wherein the cutting process of the sample E is as follows: the armpit points d and the shoulder end points b are connected by radian lines around the root part of the human body arm to form arm model sleeve hill arc lines, the armpit points d, the posterior elbow points q and the wrist inner midpoint o are sequentially connected by radian lines around the center of the inner side of the human body arm to form arm model sleeve inner side suture lines, a straight line is made from the posterior elbow points q to the sleeve inner side suture lines to form posterior sleeve elbow province lines, the degree of the included angle between the posterior sleeve elbow points q and the human body sleeve elbow line is 0.1875, and the sleeve elbow province line is positioned on one side close to the wrist of the human body; and the shearing contour points of the sample E are formed by b, d, q and o, the fiber paper is cut in a three-dimensional manner along the contour lines of all parts, the elbow-and-elbow-shaped trace lines of the sleeve are cut, and the sample E is formed after being tiled.
7. The method for three-dimensional cutting of upper and lower women's dresses according to claim 6, wherein the amount-setting cutting process of the sample A for making the women's shirts comprises the following steps: the front center of the sample A is horizontally placed to the left to form a vertical line reaching the door and is lengthened below the lower edge, the placing width is 0.0125 multiplied by number, and the lengthening amount is 0.2 multiplied by number; taking a dead point reaching a portal vertical line to the right as a first horizontal line, widening an oxter point d to the right for chest circumference widening amount, wherein the chest circumference widening amount is 0.0125 multiplied, taking a point d at a position 2 cm to the right as a front piece basic side suture to enable the point d to intersect with the first horizontal line to form a front piece lower hem right angle, descending 1.0 cm downwards from the starting point of the front piece basic side suture to serve as a shirt armhole deepening amount, the deepening amount is 0.00625 multiplied, connecting a 1.0 cm point and a shoulder end point b in a manner of drawing an armhole radian to form a modified shirt armhole structure of the shirt, setting the shoulder and the neck pit structure of the shirt to be the same as those of the peeling sample A, setting the waist of the shirt at a side seam to be retracted inwards, setting the retracting amount to be 0.009375 multiplied, the warping amount to be 0.009375 multiplied, setting a lower hem 0.009375 multiplied line segment as a lower arc shape, and setting the lower side suture as an outer bending line; setting two side lines of an oxter province path to extend to the position where the upper side sewing lines intersect, setting the oxter province tip distance nipple point e to be 0.01875 multiplied, setting the upper waist province tip distance nipple point e to be 0.01875 multiplied, setting the lower waist province and the upper waist province of the female shirt to be symmetrical up and down relative to the waist line, and finishing the front garment piece of the female shirt;
the volume-releasing cutting process of the sample C for manufacturing the female shirt comprises the following steps: lengthening the lower edge of the rear center of the sample C, wherein the lengthening amount is 0.2 multiplied, taking the dead point of a lengthened line segment to the right as a second horizontal line, widening the underarm point d to the right for widening the chest circumference, the widening amount is 0.0125 multiplied, taking the basic side suture of the front piece) to intersect with the second horizontal line to form a right angle of the lower hem of the rear cut piece, descending 1.0 cm downwards on the basic side suture of the front piece to form the armhole deepening amount of the shirt, the deepening amount is 0.00625 multiplied by 160, connecting the 1.0 cm point and the shoulder end point b in a manner of drawing the radian of the armhole to form a modified armhole structure of the female shirt, the shoulder and the collarband structure of the female shirt are the same as those of the peeled sample C, and setting the female shirt to be retracted inwards at the waist part of the side seam, and the retraction amount is 0.009375 multiplied; the lower hem is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the lower hem is 0.009375 multiplied by 160, the bottom hem line segment is set to be in a lower arc shape, the lower side suture line is an outer curved line, the scapula convex point m1 is 0.009375 multiplied after the distance between the tip of the back shoulder province and the tip of the back shoulder province is set, the back width convex point m is 0.0125 multiplied after the distance between the tip of the upper waist province and the tip of the upper waist province of the female shirt is set, the lower waist province and the upper waist province of the female shirt are vertically symmetrical about a waist line, and thus the rear cut piece of the female shirt is finished;
the volume-releasing cutting process of the sample piece E for manufacturing the female shirt comprises the following steps: widening 0.00375 times to the left and the right by the underarm point d of the sample E respectively; the left side of the cuff is widened by 0.0125X, the right side of the cuff is widened by 0.00375X, the bottom edge of the cuff is lengthened by 0.00625X, and the distance q point of the elbow and elbow province tip is 0.009375X, thus completing the sleeve piece of the blouse.
8. The stereoscopic cutting method of women's dresses in the above, according to claim 6, wherein the allowance cutting process of the sample B for making jeans is: the outer side of the waist of the peeled sample B is measured by 0.003125 multiplied by number, the right side of the crotch line is measured by 0.009375 multiplied by number, the right side of the trouser opening is measured by 0.01875 multiplied by number, the lower side of the trouser opening is measured by 0.009375 multiplied by 160 number, the loose quantity of the tip-saving distance s point of the trouser waist is measured by 0.0125 multiplied by number, the crotch line, the waist line and the inner line are set to be corresponding to the same model, and the front trouser structure of the jeans is completed;
the sample D is used for manufacturing the jeans and the volume cutting process is as follows: the waist circumference outside relaxation measurement of the sample D is 0.003125X, and the right side of the crotch line is 0.009375X; the left relaxation of the crosspiece line is measured by 0.00625 multiplied by number; the relaxation of the right side of the trouser opening is measured to be 0.01875 multiplied by number, the relaxation of the left side of the trouser opening is measured to be 0.00625 multiplied by number, the length of the lower side of the trouser opening is measured to be 0.009375 multiplied by number, the looseness of the point p of the waist dart is measured to be 0.0125 multiplied by number, a back crotch line and a waist surrounding line are set to be the same with the model correspondingly, and thus, the back piece of the female jeans is completed.
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| CN117179408A (en) * | 2023-09-13 | 2023-12-08 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Method for shaping human body |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN117179408A (en) * | 2023-09-13 | 2023-12-08 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Method for shaping human body |
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Application publication date: 20220920 |