JP3671401B2 - Measuring instrument and prototype drawing method - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  The present invention relates to a measuring instrument for measuring dimensions of various parts of a body for drawing a pattern used for making clothes and a method for manufacturing the pattern.
[0002]
[Prior art]
  In the conventional drawing of clothes, it was drawn only with the measured value of the measure.Above the waistlineThe mainstream is to develop drawings based on the upper body's body prototype.Hip lineEven the ones up to the bottom lineOr the hip line is a straight line parallel to the floorThere are many things that are not.
[0003]
  In addition, the drafting of the sleeve has no prototype and is often drawn on a blank sheet for each design.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
  In conventional major measurement, net line, shoulder line, shoulder dart, chest dart required for drawing₂Narrow darts on the back waist, sleeve-to-body relationship, armsFallingThere are parts that cannot be measuredSuchThere was a lack of data to express the in drawing.
[0005]
  In addition, when drawing from the original model, only the upper body does not know the state of the waistline, and setting the guidelines and dart amount each time is troublesome.
[0006]
  There is also a waistoriginalEven if it is a type, there is something that the skirt line of the front body does not become a straight line parallel to the floor,BasicDespite being able to handle chest darts in the upper body with the design,HorizontalThere was a situation where the fabric side could not be seen through the hem line.
[0007]
  In addition, when drawing from a prototype to clothing, the chest darts and shoulder darts must be dispersed and escaped away from the body, and the thickness and overlap of the cloth must be added to the seams and front edge.
[0008]
  Also, armFallingSince each person is different, each person's prototype is necessary as a guide, and the relationship between the sleeve and the body is unclear.
[0009]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
  In order to solve the above problems, the present inventionOf clothesIt is necessary for drafting, and measures the round part of the body that could not be measured by the measure with a flexible plastic (polypropylene) measuring instrument attached to the body to compensate for the lack of data.
[0010]
  In addition, the prototype of the present invention is applied to the body from the upper body to the hip line (HL).moderatelyHL is set to a straight line parallel to the floor,Draw a horizontal bust line (BL) on the floorBreast size and postureAnd body shapeBy back, aside, in frontmeasurementSince it is set and drawn with the measurement value with the measuring instrument and measure with the line as a reference, it is easy to draw around the waist, and the length of the clothes can be put out in parallel with the HL as the reference, so the eyes of the horizontal land on the skirt I can pass.AlsoChest dart shoulder dart also adjusts the amount of dispersion by design and clothes,Can move as needed. It is easy to unfold the cloth thickness and overlap, as long as they are added appropriately at the front center, back center, side lines, shoulder lines, etc.
[0011]
  In the present invention, the relationship between the body and arms with a measuring instrumentAnd how to lower armsYou can draw a tight prototype of each person's sleeve, and use it as a guide for developing each design.It is easy to draw.
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
  A method and an embodiment of the present invention for producing a garment prototype and a garment template based on the prototype.In women's clothingThis will be described in detail below. I measure it finely, but when I get used to it, I made something that was made by sheeting in advance.wearAlthough it can be corrected and completed, here, in order to explain the basics, a method of measuring and drawing with a measuring instrument and a measure is taken.
[0013]
…measurementPreparation of…
  With each measuring instrument of the present invention, measure and weightKiMajor (marker),Flexible curve ruler (50cm),Prepare a point sticker (or disappearing chaco pencil). Before measurement, a belt made of sheeting 2.5 cm wide is wound around a human body (or a person) wearing a bra and a girdle at a position where the waist (W) is easy to fit. Point seals are attached at the positions indicated by the circles in FIGS. 1A and 1B of the following points (may be marked with a chaco pencil). While standing up with a marker in a standing posture with both feet in place, the nipple point (BP), front center (FC) at the same height (BL) as BP, side, side line, back, back center (BC) Tonobu rear impact point, BC of the same height (HL), on the side line, directly below BP and FC, rear center neck point (BNP), front center neck point (FNP), side neck point (SNP) , Shoulder point (SP), waistline (waist belt top) BC, side line, FC, front saddle point, back saddle point, side point (1 cm below the base of the arm on the side) The saddle point as seen from the front side(Branch point between front and rear arms and torso)The center point of the arm width, the center point of the elbow width, and the center point of the wrist width.
[0014]
... for body confirmationmeasurement…
  In the pattern making method of the present embodiment, first, in order to confirm the body shape, the measurement points a to d shown in FIG.With measure with weightMeasure with ▲ 1 ▼▲ 2 ▼Measure the dimension value from HL to BL in (3) with a flexible curve plastic ruler (may be a major) along the body. At that time, measure in a posture standing naturally with both feet. The waistline (WL) is the upper belt.
  A Nipple point height: The height to BP is the height of the bust line (BL).
  (B) Height of the rear part of the buttock ... The height to the rear part of the buttock is the height of the hip line (HL).
  C. Shoulder length ... Length from floor to SNP through BP
  D Rear shoulder length: The length from the floor through the buttocks rear projection to the SNP through the upper shoulder back projection
  (1) A curve ruler (may be a major) is attached to the body from the BL just below the upper shoulder point of the upper shoulder to the HL, and the waist is measured slightly apart (floating). Also check the numbers from BL to WL.
  (2) A curve ruler (may be a measure) is attached to the body at the vertical point from BL to HL, and the waist part is slightly separated (floating). Also check the numbers from BL to WL. (The upper body leans back slightly toward the side points along the body)
  (3) A curve ruler (may be a major) is attached to the body from the front BP to the vertical point of HL, and it is measured a little apart (floating) between the bottom of the bust and the waist. Check the numbers from BL to WL.
  The numerical values of (1), (2), and (3) vary from mm units to 1 cm depending on the body shape. An example is shown in FIG. If it is a straight silhouette (or flare, etc.) clothing that does not fit the body, ▲ 1 ▼▲ 2 ▼③ is the same value for any body type. This number is also the number of (a) minus (minus) b. In addition, the body shape can be known from the difference between U and D, and the difference between U and D is also the difference between the front and back of the side neck point from BL, and the body shape such as the size and posture of the breast can be known.
[0015]
…breastDartsFrequencymeasurement…
  The size of the human breast varies so that the brassiere has A cup to F cup. It is necessary to express the size of the chest on the chest dart on the drawing, but the frequency of the chest dartMeasuring instrumentFigure 3 shows how to makehow to useIs shown in FIG.
  How to make a chest dart frequency meter (Fig. 3) ... Prepare two thin and transparent plastic (polypropylene) plates with the dimensions shown in Fig. 3 on side A and side B, and draw BL lines. By inserting several lines perpendicular to the BL at 5 mm intervals in the FC part of the A surface and entering the dimensions from the BP, the dimensions between the nipples can also be known. Insert a line vertically on BP. BP on the B sideDraw a reference line perpendicular to BLInsert a frequency scale and use the BP point as the axis.A side B sideFasten with clasp so that it rotates again.
  breastDartsHow to measure frequency (Fig. 4) ... ChestDartsThe frequency meter BP point is applied to the BP of the human body (human stand), and the BL line on the A surface is applied to the BL of the human body (human stand). Put the FC line parallel to the human body (human stand) FC. When the surface A is pressed and fixed by hand and the BL line on the surface B is matched with the BL of the human body (person), the overlapping portion of the line a is the breast frequency. (1 to 2 degrees as a margin when drawing the prototypeDecrement)
[0016]
... neck, shoulder line, shoulder dartmeasurement…
  There is a difference in the width of the neck of the human body. Also, the inclination of shoulder lines and the amount of shoulder darts are different for each person. Figure 5 shows how to make a measuring instrument.How to measureIs shown in FIG.
  Neck, shoulderLine, shoulder dartsHow to make a measuring instrument (Fig. 5) ... Thin, transparent plastic plate with a standard size line as shown in the figureBodyOne side behindBodyPut them on the two sides, cut the outside to the size shown in the figure, and fasten it with the clasp so that it moves (rotates) with the SNP point and shoulder dart stop point overlapped.
measurementHow to (Fig. 6) ... as shownMeasuring instrument SNPIs fixed to the body SNP, and the FC is aligned with the body FC in parallel. The front panel is fixed and BC is parallel to the body BC, and the shoulder darts are overlapped so as to naturally follow the shoulders, and the shoulder lines are overlapped.clipTo fasten the shoulder. Mark the neckline, FC, BC, shoulder line, and SP on the measuring instrument with a chaco pencil. Remove it and copy it on the tracing paper. (Use as is if drafting immediately after)
[0017]
... back waistWhatNarrow dartsQuantity measurement…
  Although the back is obese and large, the waist on the skeleton is usually narrower than the scapula and hips. Narrow darts on the waist usually have more darts on the side than darts near the center of the back.
  Back waist narrowed dartMeasuring instrumentHow to make (Fig. 7) ... Thin 3 transparent plastic plates that are transparent and transparent, put a standard size line (from 3cm above WL) and scale as shown in the figure. Fasten with a clasp so that it moves (rotates) with the stop points on top of each other.
measurementHow to do (Figure 8) ...InstrumentationAlign the back saddle point with the body, align BC and BL parallel to the body's BL and BC, and attach the darts near the back to the body so as to overlap, so that the side lines do not protrude beyond the vertical line from the side points. Align the side BL in parallel (may be slightly inclined), float the back saddle point a little (clear), pile up the darts on the side and fasten it with a gem clip, Mark the lines, BL, and BC, and note the amount of overlap for each dart. (Many darts on the side of the skeleton)
[0018]
... Body and sleeve relationship and armsmeasurement…
  How to put the arm on the shoulder,How to lower arms(Swing of sleeves) and arm condition are each person. When measuring with this measuring instrument, the armholes under the sleeves of the body and the sleeves of the sleeves (in relation to the side lines of the body), Sodeyama Line,shoulder(SP)You can see the relationship. You can also see the sleeve crests and armrests, the saddle width of the body, and the saddle width of the sleeves.
  Relationship between body and sleeves and armMeasuring instrumentHow to make (Fig. 9) ... Put standard size lines as shown in the figure on four thin, transparent and flexible plastic plates, and cut the outside as shown in the figure.WhenThe next saddle point and side point move in layers(Rotate)So that it holds with a clasp. At the rear saddle point, a measure with a length of 25 cm, which is 68 cm long and 5 mm wide with the right end of the sodama line, 15 cm above and 53 cm below can be moved sideways.
measurementHow to do (Figure 10) ...Lower your arm naturally,Align the side points with the body, align the side lines front and back, fasten the waist with a gem clip, fit with the shoulder and fasten the shoulder tip and SNP side with the gem clip. Stretch a 25cm measure from the back saddle point to wrap your arm around the front saddle point.HanFasten with tape. Move the right edge of the 65cm measure to the center of the arm width, extend the 53cm to the center of the elbow, make a sleeve mountain line, and extend it straight to the wrist. See the sleeve length and elbow length.Top15cmmajorExtend the length to the Sodeyama Line to see the difference between the length and the body SP. Check again that the side points are aligned with the side points of the body, mark the side line,With the BL sectionArm width slightly above the elbow with a chaco pencilBodyMark on the panel. Remove the body from the body and copy the front and back saddle points, armpit lower armholes, armpits, and arm widths at the elbows on the tracing paper. Draw a sleeve width line that passes through the side point at right angles to the line, and the sleeve width of the saddle point is marked on both sides from the center point (C point on the Sodeyama line) (usually the back is more than about 1 cm ahead) ). SP(shoulder)Also mark the position of as a guide. Record the sleeve length, elbow length, and elbow length.
[0019]
... for body fitting prototype and sleeve tight prototype drawingmeasurementExplanation of the location ...
  In the pattern making method of the present embodiment, the dimension values of measuring points O to E shown in FIGS. 11A, 11B, and 11C are measured with a measure for use in body pattern and sleeve tight pattern drawing. The waistline (WL) is the upper belt.
  (BL surrounding) ... Horizontal circumference passing through BP.
Oh, the back half of the body from the side line of the BL enclosure is 1 cm (clear). … The scapula protrusion will be added later as a dart when drawing.
Front side half body plus 1cm (clear) from the side line of mosquito BL.
  (Back width)… The length from the right rear saddle point to the left rear saddle point.
G Half width plus 1 cm (clearance with the arm in front).
  (Chest width)… The length from the right front saddle point to the left front saddle point.
K Chest width half plus 0.5cm (clear).
K Shoulder width… From SNP to SP.
E Half the length of the back shoulder point (SP) interval.
SA BC BL to BNP (Including scapula protrusion)
The length from the rear SNP to the BL directly below.
S Length from rear saddle point to SP.
  (Nipple spacing): Distance between left and right nipple points (clearance 0.3 cm).
C Half of the nipple interval.
So FC BL to FNP (including breast protrusion).
The length of BP to SNP.
H BP to SP length.
Tsu The length of the SP from the forehead.
Te Aside point from side line BL (1 cm below the base of the arm).
  (Waist circumference)… The circumference where the belt is set.
Half of the length from the front right side to the left side of the waist circumference plus 1 cm (clearance).
Na Half of the length from the right side to the left side after the waist circumference plus 1 cm or more (clear).
  (HL circumference) ... Horizontal circumference passing through the buttocks rear protrusion (including abdominal swelling)
D Half of the previous dimension plus 1 cm (clearance) including the bulge of the abdomen from the right side point to the left side point of HL.
Half of the rear dimension from the right side to the left side of Nu HL plus 1 cm (clearance).
  (MHL circumference): Horizontal circumference passing through the front abdominal point.
Half of the front dimension of nem hip (MH) + 0.5cm or more (clear).
No MH rear dimension plus 0.5cm or more (clear).
C 腋 Point width: The width from the back saddle point to the front saddle point (measured with the object side), plus 1 cm (clearance).
上 Upper arm circumference ... Length around the base of the arm plus 2.5 cm or more (clear).
F Elbow circumference: The length around the elbow plus 2 cm or more (the space required to bend the elbow is about 2 cm later when drawing).
F Wrist circumference: Length around wrist plus 1 cm or more (clear).
E Hand circumference: Length around the hand at the base of the thumb plus 1 cm or more (length that allows the hand to pass through the cuffs).
[0020]
... How to make a body fit prototype ...
  Hereinafter, in 1 to 13, a procedure for creating a body fit prototype will be described. Using the numerical values of (1) to (3), (a) to (c) and the data of the measuring instrument, a standard body with a breast degree of 16 degrees is used as shown in FIG. (Dimensions of HL to BL are shown in Fig. 2 using standard body breast frequency of 16 °)
1 Draw a line at the center of the back (BC) vertically on the left end, and take a line that is half the length of the HL enclosure (or BL enclosure if the BL enclosure is large) plus 5 cm in a horizontal line, and vertically connect the FC line vertically. Pull and mark the back of the HL enclosure and the front.
2 First, draw a line from the center of the back of the BL to the lower part of the scapula with a dimension of (1) from the HL, mark the side part from the HL with the dimension of (2), and from the BP to the FC (3) from the HL Take the BL. (In the standard body without habit, BL is parallel to HL and straight from BC to FC) WL positionTheMark from the measured value.
3 On the BL, mark the size of the rear BL from the BC with a dart portion (approx. 2.5 cm) and mark the size of the front BL from the FC. Mark the front and rear side points (1 cm below the base of the arm).
4 Mark the back saddle point from the back width key and the measuring instrument (with a height of about 6 cm from BL as a guide) and draw a line under the back sleeve.
5 HL on the back body waist dart line is less than the amount of measuring instrumentThanPull 2-3 cm above. Take the dart from the side as shown in the figure, directly below the saddle point 1 cm inside (dart centerline). W part is any dartTo follow the waistDraw a line 2cm below.
6 Keep the back side line at the waist so that it does not enter more than 1.5cm below the side point.To beDraw a line with a rounded waist on the dimensions of the ML box towards the HL mark.
7 Mark the BP center and draw a line with the waist dart from the bottom 1.5cm as shown. (Chest size and waist narrowingThe amount varies depending on the condition) Side darts may not be needed by people.
8 Adjust the amount of dart so that it is the size of the front waist girth so that the front body side line does not enter more than 2.5cm below the side point at the waist, and the dimension of the ML girth toward the HL mark Draw a line with rounded waist.
9 Mark the size of the back center above the BL, mark the BNP, mark the size of the chin at the height of the SNP, mark the shoulder darts between the shoulder tips by adding about 1 cm, looking at the measuring instrument, Take the size of the strap from the back saddle point, mark the height of the SP, match the tracing paper line copied from the neck shoulder measuring instrument, take the neck width, neck line, shoulder line, shoulder dart line Check the shoulder width and draw a line, and draw a armhole line from the SP toward the saddle point. Make a mark with the sleeve 7cm from the SP.
10 Extend the back side line and check the saddle point width. Set the front side line to 1cm higher than the back saddle point so that the front side line is extended and the saddle point width is aligned with the front and back. Draw an underline.
11 Chest was measured by drawing a line from the prone point to BPDartsDraw a line of the same length with the frequency minus 2 degrees (clear) as a chest dart, and the front chest widthTheFrom the FC and adjust the dart position.
12 Take the dimension of the front center so that it is above BL, mark FNP, and mark the height of SNP from BP,TsuTake the dimensions of the front saddle point, mark the height of the SP, mark the BP to SP dimension h, and match the line taken from the neck shoulder measuring instrument, take the neck width, the neck line, the shoulder line Draw a sleeve line from the SP of the shoulder width and mark the joint with the sleeve at a position 6 cm from the SP.
13 As shown in the figure, to escape the auxiliary lines of the chest darts and shoulder darts as dart movement and clearanceIn the neck and shoulder sleevesPull and finish.
[0021]
... Drawing of the back body prototype of the antibody ...
  The prototype of the anti-body is HL from the back BLDimensionsIs about 2mm to 5mm long,NormalBL goes down to the side line. An example of the prototype is shown in FIG. In the example of the opposite body in FIG. 2, the rear BL to HL is 0.5 cm longer than the standard. There will also be more darts on the side.
[0022]
... Drawing a prototype around the front of a person with big breasts ...
  When the chest is large, HL is about 1 mm to 1 cm longer than the previous BP, so that the side BL is lowered from the BP toward the side line BL. Decreases chest darts by several minutes. An example of the prototype is shown in FIG. Since the numerical value of BL to HL of the breast frequency of 21 degrees in FIG. 2 is 0.5 cm longer than the standard, BL falls from BP toward the side line BL. Chest frequency is the remainder of 1.5 degrees for the lowering and 2 degrees of clearance minus the frequency of the chest darts. Here, 17.5 degrees is obtained by subtracting 3.5 degrees from 21 degrees. Since the chest is large, it is 2 cm longer at the front BL body, plus 1 cm at the chest width, BP-SNP plus 0.5 cm, BP-SP plus 0.5 cm longer than the standard. The amount of darts under BP also increases.
[0023]
... How to make a sleeve tight prototype ...
  Hereinafter, in 1-13, the procedure which produces a sleeve tight original pattern is demonstrated. Using the above-mentioned numerical values of ha to ho and the data of the measuring instrument, the drawing is performed as shown in FIG.
1 The sleeve width of the saddle line (or the front height) parallel to the sleeve width line, sleeve width line, saddle point lower armhole line, sleeve width line of the measurement data transferred to the tracing paper (the dimension from point C is the back Copy the arm width (slightly above the elbow), side lines and side points on the drawing sheet, and draw the sleeve length elbow length parallel to the sleeve width line and perpendicular to the sleeve mountain line. Also mark SP as a guide.
2. Draw an elbow line from the elbow position of the Sodega Line to the cuff, and draw a cuff line at a right angle to the line.
3 Mark the sleeve width of the collar point with a space of 1 cm or more in front and 1.5 mm or more in the back so that the arm can be put out in front. Pull the guideline only to the point where the quarter length of the elbow around the sleeve is on both sides from the Sodeyama line, and the cuff is on the quarter side of the armhole on the both sides from the elbow line. Connect to the outside of the elbow line 1cm, and connect to the quarter point of the cuff, showing the side guideline of the sleeve.
4 Body from sleeve saddle point set to 3 for sleeve width lineLinear dimension from the armhole point to the side pointAfter drawing a straight line of the same size as the underline of the armhole. Check how much the set sleeve width is around the upper arm (1.5 cm front, 2 cm behind).
5 Draw a straight line from the front / rear saddle point of the sleeve to the sleeve mountain point, 2cmBefore and afterInflate and draw Sodeyama curve. As shown in the figure, put an obsolete part and mark it with the body (the SP may be shifted depending on the obsolete part).
6 Look at the space under the front sleeve underline 4 and allow a space of 1.5 cm or more around the upper arm as shown in the figure.SetFrom the front sleeve width pointPreviouselbowwidthDraw a curve line along the arm at the point (same dimension on the front elbow line)PreviouscuffwidthDraw a straight line toward the point (same dimension from the elbow line), and draw the front cuff line as shown.
7 With the rear sleeve underline around the upper arm as shown in the figure, allow a space of 1.5 cm or more behind (to put the arm forward)SetFrom the back sleeve width pointbehindelbowwidthDraw a straight line at the point (same size on the back elbow line ... the space for bending the 2cm elbow is behind) and extend it straight to the cuffs.
8 Back cuff line from sleeve underlineHoMark and draw a quarter of the size of the line with the remainder as elbow darts.
[0024]
… Fit prototype correction…
  In order to make a more accurate prototype that fits the body, fitting correction of the prototype is indispensable. It implements in the procedure of 1-9.
1 Seek with vertical and horizontal lines of eyes is prepared with a steam iron.
2 Put out the original HL in parallel and make it knee-length, open it in front, open it back, and sew it with a presser foot. Sodeyama should be sewn. (Normally right sleeve only)
3 Wrap a 2.5cm wide black waist belt around your waist
4 Put on the human body (or platform) and pin the back center.
5 Check the BL and HL positions with a marker. If they do not match, adjust with the shoulder line. Look at the floor up again with the marker and mark it with a chaco pencil.
6 The prototype is fitted to the body, but it should not be too small.
7 WL mark the top of the black waist belt attached below.
8 The sleeves are fastened with pins at the front and rear saddle points, and the sleeve mountain lines are aligned and adjusted while adjusting the SP.
9 Check that the armpit and sleeves are aligned with the armpit and armpit line
[0025]
... Fit prototype finish ...
  Copy the corrected prototype onto the drafting paper, the auxiliary lines, BL, WL, HL size, chestDartsIt is easy to use it for drawing development of clothes if the frequency etc. is put.
[0026]
... Drawing development example to blouse ...
  FIG. 17 shows the distributed movement of the dart of the fit type blouse as shown in FIG. 16, FIG. 18 shows the completed drawing, and FIG. 19 shows the drawing of the sleeve. Here, drawing is performed using the prototype of FIG. 12 having a breast frequency of 16 °. The cloth is cotton broad.
1 As shown in the figure, spread the chest darts and shoulder darts in an appropriate amount and move the chest darts on it.
2 Using the line 1 as a guideline, add a clearance of 0.5 cm behind and 0.5 cm front to the side line, and raise the skirt line parallel to HL.
3 As for the sleeve, a tight sleeve of the arm vertically lowered as shown in FIG. 19A is drawn as shown in FIG. 19B.Side points and side lines are closer to the front.In the measurement, SP coincides with the Sodeyama line. The clear sleeve width is 1.2cm front and 1.8cm rear.As a result, the sleeve width is also increased.
[0027]
... Drawing example of upper garment ...
  FIG. 21 shows the distribution of the darts for the upper panel changeover as shown in FIG. 20, and FIG. 22 shows the completed drawing. Here, the standard prototype of FIG. 12 is used for the back body, and the prototype of FIG. 14 having a breast degree of 21 degrees is used for the front body. Drawing of two sleeves is shown in FIG. The cloth (developed using the sleeve tight pattern in FIG. 15) is a medium thickness, and the thickness of the shoulder pad is 0.5 cm.
Figure 121As the garment leaves the body likeFor neckline, shoulders and sleevesDartsFromDisperse and tear.
2As shown in FIG.Lower the side points 1.5 cm both front and back, and at the side points, give 1.3 cm front and 1.8 cm clearance and cloth thickness, chest width 0.3 cm, back width 0.8 cm, and shoulder to the appropriate Draw a line (check that the saddle point width is not too wide. The upper garment is nude size + 2 cm). Draw side lines on the waist and hips with the original lines. The thickness of the fabric is 0.3cm at the center of the back, the front center is added 0.5cm, the shoulder line is 0.3cm at the neck point, and the thickness of the pad is 0.5cm at the tip of the shoulder, adding 0.8cm. Make it high. Draw a switching line using the line 1 and the waist dart line as a guide.
3As shown in FIG.Take a picture of the sleeve tight prototype sleeve sleeve line, sleeve width line, elbow line, elbow line, cuff line (sleeve length) body side line, SP and guidelines.
4 As for the sleeve width line, the side point of the body has dropped 1.5 cm, so deduct 0.5 cm for raising the arm and lower it by 1 cm. The intersection of the line and the side line is the side point, and the side point and the side line are aligned with the side point side line on the upper body.ofCopy the lower armhole from the saddle point of the body (after confirming that the position of the side line has not changed from the original).
5 Mark the sleeve width at the saddle point with a margin of 1.3 cm before and 2.3 cm behind, and mark it at a half position from the saddle point. The elbow line is 0.5cm in front of the original guideline (1cm to the bottom of the sleeve) and 0.7cm behind (1.4cm to the bottom of the sleeve). As a clear line (cuffs are 2 cm wide), connect each point and use it as a guideline for two sleeves. Draw a curve along the front and back to follow the arm above the elbow.
6 Sodeyama is 0.8cm higher than the shoulder pad and cloth thickness. As for SP, the armhole of the front body becomes long by the tear of the chest dart, so it shifts back a little.
[0028]
【effect】
  As described above, the measuring instrument of the present invention can measure a portion that is necessary for drafting and could not be measured conventionally, so that a fitting prototype suitable for each person can be made.
[0029]
  The prototype drawing method and the development method of the present invention fit moderately,Easy to wearYou can produce a pattern of clothes with a beautiful silhouette.
[0030]
  In addition, when the chest darts are processed with the upper body, clothes with tight silhouettes can see through the side of the skirt line, so it can be finished with plain cloth as well as checks.
[0031]
  In addition, the fit prototype and sleeve tight prototype of the present invention are used for drafting blouse, vest, dress, jacket, coat, etc. as a prototype corresponding to each person's body shape of custom clothing and as a prototype of ready-made clothing I can do it.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 Point positions and measurement points for body type confirmation. (A) is the body. (B) is an arm.
[Figure 2] Figures from BL to HL of fit silhouette by body type.
[Figure 3] ChestDartsfrequencyMeasuring instrumentDrawings of
[Figure 4] ChestDartsfrequencyMeasuring instrumentHow to use.
FIG. 5 is a drawing of a neck, shoulder line, and shoulder dart measuring instrument.
FIG. 6 shows how to use a neck, shoulder line, and shoulder dart measuring instrument.
FIG. 7 is a drawing of a back waist dart measuring instrument.
[FIG. 8] How to use the back waist dart measuring instrument.
[Figure 9] Relationship between body and sleeves and armsofDrawing of the measuring instrument.
[Figure 10] Relationship between body and sleeves and armsofHow to use the instrument.
[FIG. 11] Measurement points for body fitting prototype and sleeve tight prototype drawing. (A) is the back body. (B) is the front body. (C) is a sleeve.
FIG. 12 shows a drawing order and a completed drawing of the body fit prototype.
FIG. 13 is a completed drawing of an anti-body back body fitting prototype.
[Figure 14] ChestDartsThe completed figure of the front body fit prototype of 21 degrees.
FIG. 15 is a drawing order and completed drawing of a sleeve tight prototype.
FIG. 16 Blouse design image.
FIG. 17 is a development of a blouse body prototype.
FIG. 18: Drawing of the blouse body completed.
FIG. 19: Drawing of a blouse tight sleeve with arms lowered vertically. (A) A state of the Sodeyama line when the arm is vertically lowered. (B) Drawing of a tight sleeve.
FIG. 20 is a design picture of the upper garment.
FIG. 21 is an exploded view of the upper body of the upper garment.
FIG. 22: Drawing of the upper body of the upper garment.
FIG. 23: Drawing of two sleeves of upper garment.

Claims (4)

Prepare two thin and flexible plastic plates with specified dimensions, draw a bust line (BL), draw several front center lines perpendicular to BL on the first surface, and bust point (BP ), A line drawn perpendicularly to BL, a reference line drawn perpendicularly to BL on the BP on the second surface, and a degree scale was added, and the two pieces were overlapped with BP and rotated so as to rotate. Frequency measuring instrument. Prepare three thin, transparent, flexible plastic plates with specified dimensions, with several front centerlines on the first side, necklines, shoulder lines, and armhole lines, and back center on the second side Draw several lines and neck lines, shoulder lines, shoulder dart lines, draw shoulder dart lines, shoulder lines, and armhole lines on the 3rd surface, and rotate by overlapping the side neck point (SNP) and shoulder dart stop point Neckline, shoulder line, shoulder dart amount measuring instrument characterized by fastening . Prepare three thin and flexible plastic plates with the specified dimensions, draw BL, several back center lines and dart lines on the first side, dart lines on the second side, Dart line, several side lines and armhole lines are drawn on the surface, two dart points are overlapped, and the amount of darts is reduced to the waist of the back body, which is fastened to rotate. vessel. Four thin, transparent and flexible plastic plates with the specified dimensions are prepared, with the shoulder and armhole lines of the front body on the first side, the side lines and armhole lines of the front body on the second surface, Pull the shoulder and armhole lines of the back body on the third side, the side lines and armhole lines of the back body on the fourth surface, and fasten the front saddle point, the back saddle point, and the side points so that they rotate. Body and sleeve relationship and arm measuring instrument , characterized by attaching a measure to the saddle point .

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