CN103704915A - Trousers sample plate tailoring method - Google Patents
Trousers sample plate tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN103704915A CN103704915A CN201310713138.1A CN201310713138A CN103704915A CN 103704915 A CN103704915 A CN 103704915A CN 201310713138 A CN201310713138 A CN 201310713138A CN 103704915 A CN103704915 A CN 103704915A
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 210000000689 upper leg Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 235000012469 Cleome gynandra Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 206010020880 Hypertrophy Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 240000007918 Tacca chantrieri Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002789 length control Methods 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses a trousers sample plate tailoring method. The outseam, the waistline, the hipline and the leg opening width of a human body are measured, the waistband depth is determined, and the control points of the lengths and the widths of the outseam, the upper crotch length, the hipline height, the medium crotch length, the hipline width, the waistline width, the small crotch width and the leg opening width are determined; the control points of all portions are connected through straight lines and curves, a front piece is arranged on the upper surface of a fabric, a back piece is tailored on the basis of the front piece, and the upper horizontal line, the lower horizontal line, the side sewing line, the upper crotch line and the medium crotch line of the front piece are applied to the back piece mechanically; the back crotch large point and the back crotch oblique line are connected through a smooth curve, the large crotch wide point and the medium crotch large point are connected through a smooth curve, the connecting line serves as a lower crotch arc of the back piece, the medium crotch large point and the leg opening large point are connected through a straight line, the side seam of the front side piece serves as the side sewing line, the tailoring curve of the front piece of the trousers basic type is determined, and therefore the final trousers sample plate is obtained. The trousers sample plate tailoring method has the advantages that the side seam where the hipline line is located cannot bulge, unnecessary cloth does not occur below the hipline of the back trousers piece, the tailoring method is easy to operate, and the tailoring efficiency of trousers can be effectively improved.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to tailoring technical field, relate to a kind of trousers version method of cutting out.
Background technology
The fundamental mode version of fitted pants is patterns of the various trousers money of cutting, and fitted pants fundamental mode version need be by trousers length, the length that performs, middle-grade length, hip circumference, waistline, middle-gradely enclose, the wide equidimension of pin mouth forms.In fitted pants cutting, the size of hip circumference is fit, the lines of latasuture are fit, and the smooth of crotch seam be the important indicator of weighing a trousers version, and the factor that affects this important indicator is often because crotch seam position and the latasuture position of fitted pants rear panel are not handled well.General trousers rear panel method of cutting out has two kinds now: a kind of method is that 2/1 place based on the loose line of rear hip circumference and rear seam line determines seat oblique line, by warping on seat oblique line, a little fixed rear waistline is wide, according to waistline size, draw the external latasuture at crotch place in rear panel again, then according to mean allocation both sides centered by seam line after rear foot mouth size, rear middle-grade size, draw external latasuture and inseam; Another kind method is to determine seat oblique line based on getting certain angle angle on rear hipline, generally by the angle of 15: 3, draws seat oblique line.By warping on seat oblique line, a little fixed rear waistline is wide, then draws the external latasuture at crotch place in rear panel according to waistline size, then according to rear foot mouth size, rear middle-grade size mean allocation both sides centered by seam line, draws external latasuture and inseam.Above two kinds of methods are all to release disjugal suture with seat line, this method is seen theoretically and is seemed quite reasonable, but in actual clothing making process, there are following several situations: 1, inconsistent by latasuture radian before and after present trousers version method for platemaking drawing, easily cause latasuture place, hipline place to play bag phenomenon, need to enter repeated multiple times modification; 2, perform and when making inclined to one side panty girdle type, easily occur cat's whisker with the middle-grade method defining; Under rear trouser plate hip circumference, easily there is many cloth phenomenon in the trousers type of 3, making by present trousers version type.Therefore, according to the relation of rear hip circumference and rear seam line, or the angle of getting rear hipline is determined seat seam, the front and back latasuture radian of very difficult assurance trousers version unanimously, crotch seam is smooth, buttocks is fit, and complicated operation, is not easy to beginner and grasps, and inconvenience is grasped and industrialization promotion flexibly.
Summary of the invention
Object of the present invention is providing a kind of trousers version method of cutting out, has solved existing trousers version method of cutting out and has easily caused latasuture place, hipline place to play bag, easily occurs many cloth and the inefficient problem of cutting under rear trouser plate hip circumference.
The technical solution adopted in the present invention is to carry out according to following steps:
The first, trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, the pin mouth of measurement human body are wide, determine that waistband is loose;
The second, determine trousers length, upper crotch is long, hip circumference is high, middle-grade length, hip circumference is wide, waistline is wide, little crotch is wide, pin mouth is wide length and the control point of width;
Three, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter;
Four, anter is placed on cloth, cutting rear panel on the basis of anter, applies mechanically anter upper horizontal line, lower horizontal line, latasuture line, the line that performs, middle-grade line;
Five, the little gallery gate-width point of getting anter connects into an oblique line with the wide point of front waistline, and this line is seat oblique line, and shelves oblique line 2cm location low back center line after extending, and is connected to low back mouth line with the wide point of anter latasuture waist;
Six, the crotch that falls after is got the low 1cm of front upper crotch line, after extending shelves oblique line with after fall that crotch makes it to intersect be a bit after grade basic point that falls, point-rendering rear cross crotch thus, the wide H/10-2.5cm of back cross rail;
Seven, in front trousers, on crotch seam basis, place the interior crotch seam that 3cm is rear trouser plate, with smooth curve, connect seat a little louder to rear shelves oblique line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of large crotch and middle crotch is rear panel in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, latasuture line is continued to use coxopleure latasuture, determines the trimmed curve of trousers fundamental mode anter;
Eight, according to above trimmed curve, carry out cutting, obtain final trousers version.
Technical characterstic of the present invention is also: in second step, upper crotch length can be measured waistline (W) line to the vertical range of hip circumference (H) by seating and standing posture, also can directly by H/4 hip circumference, calculate the length that performs, get and perform long 1/3 for the high line of stern, the high 1/2 raising 4-6cm to pin mouth of stern is middle-grade a little bigger, the wide H/4-1cm that gets of front hip circumference, the wide H/20-1cm that gets of front crotch, by the wide W/4+2cm of waistline before the latasuture amount of lighting, central point before fixed, get front crotch wide with front hip circumference wide 1/2 for seam line, seam line is by pin mouth width dimensions (FW-1.5cm) mean allocation, the width of front lower gear is got (FW-1.5cm+1cm), seam line both sides before mean allocation.In the 3rd step, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, the cutting wires method of determining trousers fundamental mode anter is front center line for connect front central point and hip circumference with straight line a little louder, with smoother curve, connecting latasuture waistline, a little bigger extremely middle crotch is a little bigger with the high point of hip circumference, with smooth curve, connect the wide point of little crotch and front center line is front crotch camber line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of little crotch and middle crotch is in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows can not cause latasuture place, hipline place to rise to occur under bag, rear trouser plate hip circumference many cloth phenomenon and method of cutting out simple to operate, can effectively improve the cutting efficiency of fitted pants.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is front trousers cutting schematic diagram in fitted pants fundamental mode version of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is rear trouser plate cutting schematic diagram in fitted pants fundamental mode version of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
Specific implementation method of the present invention is:
The first, trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, thigh circumference, the pin mouth of measurement human body are wide, determine that waistband is loose;
The second, determine trousers length, upper crotch is long, hip circumference is high, middle-grade length, hip circumference is wide, waistline is wide, little crotch is wide, the wide equal length of pin mouth with the control point of width.Determine that trousers fundamental mode trousers length need deduct the loose of waistband, because central plane is independent cutting, the length that performs can be measured waistline (W) line to the vertical range of hip circumference (H) by seating and standing posture, also can be directly by H/4 hip circumference calculate perform long, get to perform and long 1/3 for the high line of stern, stern are high, improve in right amount (being generally 4-6cm) for middle-grade a little bigger to 1/2 of pin mouth, the wide H/4-1cm that gets of front hip circumference, the wide H/20-1cm that gets of front crotch; By the wide W/4+2cm of waistline before the latasuture amount of lighting, central point before fixed, get front crotch wide with front hip circumference wide 1/2 be seam line, seam line is by pin mouth width dimensions (FW-1.5cm) mean allocation, the width of front lower gear is got (FW-1.5cm+1cm), seam line both sides before mean allocation.
Three, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter.Before connecting with straight line, central point and hip circumference are front center line a little louder, with smoother curve, connecting latasuture waistline, a little bigger extremely middle crotch is a little bigger with the high point of hip circumference, with smooth curve, connect the wide point of little crotch and front center line is front crotch camber line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of little crotch and middle crotch is in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter;
Four, anter is placed on cloth, cutting rear panel on the basis of anter, applies mechanically anter upper horizontal line, lower horizontal line, latasuture line, the line that performs, middle-grade line;
Five, the little gallery gate-width point of getting anter connects into an oblique line with the wide point of front waistline, and this line is seat oblique line, and shelves oblique line 2cm location low back center line after extending, and is connected to low back mouth line with the wide point of anter latasuture waist;
Six, the crotch that falls after is got the low 1cm of front upper crotch line, after extending shelves oblique line with after fall that crotch makes it to intersect be a bit after grade basic point that falls, point-rendering rear cross crotch thus, the wide H/10-2.5cm of back cross rail;
Seven, in front trousers, on crotch seam basis, place the interior crotch seam that 3cm is rear trouser plate, with smooth curve, connect seat a little louder to rear shelves oblique line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of large crotch and middle crotch is rear panel in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, latasuture line is continued to use coxopleure latasuture, determines the trimmed curve of trousers fundamental mode anter;
Eight, according to above trimmed curve, carry out cutting, obtain final trousers version.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows the external latasuture of continuing to use anter, can guarantee the smooth of latasuture, docile, utilizing the oblique line that the thigh of anter is connected a little louder with waistline is a little louder seat oblique line, can guarantee the fitness of hip circumference, utilize the crosspiece of anter place a little louder H/10-2.5cm for seat wide, can guarantee the smooth of crotch, along front interior crotch suture, placing 3cm is rear home record seam, can guarantee lines curvature always, improve the visual sense of beauty of finished product trouser legs, solve the latasuture that existing method of cutting out causes some special type not docile, the problems such as crotch is not fit, and the method uses drawing formula few, easy and simple to handle, the degree of accuracy is high, be applicable to the cutting of the various trousers type of men and women, also be apparel construction teaching, clothing plate making training improves a kind of basis version type and basic theory.
Enumerating specific embodiment below describes:
Embodiment 1:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, the pin mouth of certain medium-sized male body wide as shown in table 1: table 1
| Position | Trousers length | Hip circumference | Waistline | Pin mouth is wide | Waistband is loose |
| Size | 100 | 100 | 76 | 22 | 3 |
The second, determine trousers length, upper crotch is long, hip circumference is high, middle-grade length, hip circumference is wide, waistline is wide, little crotch is wide, pin mouth is wide.Length with the control point of width.First determine anter, as shown in Figure 1, though the present invention emphasizes that the relation of rear panel and anter is very tight into rear panel method of cutting out.
One, first according to trousers length, determine lower horizontal line 1 line, upper horizontal line 2 lines, according to table 1 trousers length-waistband loose=97cm, be trousers length control point;
Two, the amount 25cm that gets H/4 determines basis high 3 lines that perform, and can do 1cm increase and decrease according to individual dressing habit, is the long control point of upper crotch;
Three, getting high line 4 lines of stern that distance 3 line 8cm places works are parallel to 3 lines is the high control point of hip circumference.
Four, get that on the bisecting point 39cm of 1 line and 4 lines, to lift 5 lines that 4cm makes to be parallel to lower horizontal line be that middle crotch line is the high control point of middle crotch;
Five, it is the wide control point of hip circumference that the amount that measures 4/H-1cm=24cm on high line 4 lines of stern is made the wide amount line 6 of front hip circumference, requires line 6 parallel with selvedge.The amount object that front hip circumference is got 4/H-1cm is in order to be with 1cm residual quantity with rump, its object one be after meeting the thickness two of hip circumference be meet latasuture partially before, meet general aesthetical standard;
Six, measuring H/20-1cm=4 on online 3 is that the wide line 7 of front little crotch is the wide control point of front little crotch;
Seven, get front little crotch wide+front hip circumference is wide=seam line 8 lines that 28cm bisecting point is anter are front seam line control point;
Eight, by pin mouth wide-1.5cm=20.5cm divides equally in seam line both sides, it is the wide control point of forward foot in a step mouth that online 1 place measures the wide line 9 of forward foot in a step mouth;
Nine, using the wide amount+1cm=21.5 of forward foot in a step mouth as the wide amount of in-leg, divide equally in seam line both sides, it is the wide control point of front in-leg that online 5 places measure the wide line 10 of front in-leg;
Ten, measure on online 2 W/4+2.5cm provincial highway=21.5cm determine before wide line 11 lines of waistline be the wide control point of front waistline, by three parts of waist stern residual quantity (24-21.5=2.5) average marks, front center line is skimmed 1/3 surplus, abjugal suture and is skimmed 2/3 surplus.Basis province 12 is arranged on inclined to one side latasuture place, the long 10cm of provincial highway;
Three, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter.
11, with smoother curve 13 lines, connect waist mouth to performing to middle crotch, in connecting with straight line, crotch to pin mouth is abjugal suture cutting control line, at the place's of performing latasuture, need skim into 1cm, and this is because the widest point of human body latasuture is the high point of stern;
12, with smoother curve 14 lines, connect waist mouth to hip circumference to front little crotch, the wherein recessed front little crotch angular bisector 3cmWei Qian center cutting control line of small crotch curve;
13, with smoother curve 15 lines, connect little crotch to middle crotch, in connecting with straight line, crotch to pin mouth is front interior crotch seam cutting control line, need skim into 1cm performing to crotch seam in middle-grade place;
Four, anter is placed on cloth, cutting rear panel on the basis of anter, applies mechanically anter upper horizontal line, lower horizontal line, latasuture line, the line that performs, middle-grade line;
14, continue to use line 1, line 2, line 3, line 4, the line 5 of anter;
Five, as shown in Figure 2, the little gallery gate-width point of getting anter connects into an oblique line with the wide point of front waistline, and this line is seat oblique line, and shelves oblique line 2cm location low back center line after extending, and is connected to low back mouth line with the wide point of anter latasuture waist;
15, get the little gallery gate-width point A of anter, get wide some B of waistline of anter, it is seat oblique line control point that connection A point B point becomes oblique line 16 lines;
Six, the crotch that falls after is got the low 1cm of front upper crotch line, after extending shelves oblique line with after fall that crotch makes it to intersect be a bit after grade basic point that falls, point-rendering rear cross crotch thus, the wide H/10-2.5cm of back cross rail; 16, in oblique line one end, extending crotch line 17 lines that fall after A point 1cm is is rear large crotch control point, and the amount that upwards measures H/10-2cm=8 perpendicular to seams of a trouser leg direction to be from here decided to be rear large crotch loose, the other end extends B point 2cm place, and to be decided to be low back a little bigger, wherein 2cm is parameter, need adjust in conjunction with individual dressing feature, narrow close-fitting vest can reduce 1-2cm again, otherwise loose hypertrophy can increase 1-2cm;
Seven, in front trousers, on crotch seam basis, place the interior crotch seam that 3cm is rear trouser plate, with smooth curve, connect seat a little louder to rear shelves oblique line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of large crotch and middle crotch is rear panel in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, latasuture line is continued to use coxopleure latasuture, determines the trimmed curve of trousers fundamental mode anter;
17, on forward foot in a step mouth broad base, adding 3cm is wide 18 lines of rear foot mouth, is the wide control point of rear foot mouth, is added on separately interior latasuture place, and wherein 3cm is the wide residual quantity of front and back pin mouth;
18, on the wide basis of front lower gear, add 3cm, for wide 19 lines of rear in-leg, be the wide control point of rear in-leg, be added on separately interior crotch seam place, wherein 3cm is the wide residual quantity of front and back in-leg;
19, with smoother curve 20, connect after large crotch to middle crotch, in connecting with straight line, crotch is to pin mouth, at rear large crotch shelves, to crotch seam in middle-grade place, need skim into 1.5cm is rear interior crotch seam cutting control line;
20, with the wide point of the rear large crotch of smoother curve 21, arrive hip circumference to wide low back point, wherein the recessed rear large crotch angular bisector 2.3cm of large crotch curve is seat seam cutting control line;
21, line 22 is that low back is the large control point of low back a little louder, according to W/4+2.5cm provincial highway amount=19cm, calculates;
22, continue to use front outside suture 13 for suture 23 lines outside rear panel be disjugal suture cutting control line;
Eight, according to above trimmed curve, carry out cutting, obtain final trousers version.
Embodiment 2:
The utilization of rear trouser plate method of cutting out in the cutting of slacks dress in a kind of fitted pants fundamental mode version.Comprise the following steps successively:
The first, measure trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, the pin mouth of certain medium-sized female body wide as shown in table 2:
Table 2
| Position | Trousers length | Hip circumference | Waistline | Pin mouth is wide | Waistband is loose |
| Size | 100 | 96 | 68 | 20 | 3 |
Second and third, the concrete implementation step of four, five, six, seven steps:
Concrete implementation step is with embodiment 1, just the trousers length in embodiment 2, hip circumference, waistline, pin mouth are enclosed, etc. data substitution embodiment 1 calculate.
Eight, according to above-mentioned cutting wires, carry out cutting, place seam deal, can make.
Claims (3)
1. a trousers version method of cutting out, is characterized in that carrying out according to following steps:
Trousers length, waistline, hip circumference, the pin mouth of the first step, measurement human body are wide, determine that waistband is loose;
Second step, determine trousers length, upper crotch is long, hip circumference is high, middle-grade length, hip circumference is wide, waistline is wide, little crotch is wide, pin mouth is wide length and the control point of width;
The 3rd step, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter;
The 4th step, anter is placed on cloth, cutting rear panel on the basis of anter, applies mechanically anter upper horizontal line, lower horizontal line, latasuture line, the line that performs, middle-grade line;
The 5th step, the little gallery gate-width point of getting anter and the wide point of front waistline connect into an oblique line, and this line is seat oblique line, and shelves oblique line 2cm location low back center line after extending, and are connected to low back mouth line with the wide point of anter latasuture waist;
The 6th step, after the crotch that falls get the low 1cm of front upper crotch line, after extending shelves oblique line with after fall that crotch makes it to intersect be a bit after grade basic point that falls, point-rendering rear cross crotch thus, the wide H/10-2.5cm of back cross rail;
The 7th step, in front trousers, on crotch seam basis, place the interior crotch seam that 3cm is rear trouser plate, with smooth curve, connect seat a little louder to rear shelves oblique line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of large crotch and middle crotch is rear panel in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, latasuture line is continued to use coxopleure latasuture, determines the trimmed curve of trousers fundamental mode anter;
The 8th step, according to above trimmed curve, carry out cutting, obtain final trousers version.
2. according to a kind of trousers version method of cutting out described in claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described second step, upper crotch length can be measured waistline to the vertical range of hip circumference by seating and standing posture, also can directly by H/4 hip circumference, calculate the length that performs, get and perform long 1/3 for the high line of stern, the high 1/2 raising 4-6cm to pin mouth of stern is middle-grade a little bigger, the wide H/4-1cm that gets of front hip circumference, the wide H/20-1cm that gets of front crotch, by the wide W/4+2cm of waistline before the latasuture amount of lighting, central point before fixed, get front crotch wide with front hip circumference wide 1/2 for seam line, seam line is by pin mouth width dimensions FW-1.5cm mean allocation, the width of front lower gear is got FW-1.5cm+1cm, seam line both sides before mean allocation.
3. according to a kind of trousers version method of cutting out described in claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described the 3rd step, with straight line, be connected each control point, position with curve, the cutting wires method of determining trousers fundamental mode anter is front center line for connect front central point and hip circumference with straight line a little louder, with smoother curve, connecting latasuture waistline, a little bigger extremely middle crotch is a little bigger with the high point of hip circumference, with smooth curve, connect the wide point of little crotch and front center line is front crotch camber line, with smooth curve, connecting the wide point of little crotch and middle crotch is in-leg camber line a little louder, middle-gradely with straight line, connect a little louder to pin mouth a little louder, determine the cutting wires of trousers fundamental mode anter.
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| CN201310713138.1A CN103704915B (en) | 2013-12-23 | 2013-12-23 | A kind of trousers version method of cutting out |
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| CN105901793A (en) * | 2016-05-05 | 2016-08-31 | 浙江理工大学 | Method for making vocational pants matched with high-heeled shoes |
| CN106473291A (en) * | 2016-11-15 | 2017-03-08 | 江西服装学院 | The manufacture method of male trousers and male trousers |
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| CN111918576A (en) * | 2018-04-06 | 2020-11-10 | 旭化成株式会社 | Trousers |
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| CN113367415A (en) * | 2021-06-17 | 2021-09-10 | 徐先坤 | Female trousers prototype tailoring method |
| CN114009867A (en) * | 2021-12-02 | 2022-02-08 | 江苏虎豹集团有限公司 | Method for manufacturing fit type western style trousers trouser legs |
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