CN104585943A - Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting - Google Patents
Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting Download PDFInfo
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- CN104585943A CN104585943A CN201410766173.4A CN201410766173A CN104585943A CN 104585943 A CN104585943 A CN 104585943A CN 201410766173 A CN201410766173 A CN 201410766173A CN 104585943 A CN104585943 A CN 104585943A
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- waist
- chest
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- closing
- waistline
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses an original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting. The original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting comprises the steps that clothing specifications such as a chest, a waistline, a chest width, a waist line height are determined according to human body measurement data, it is determined that the code of a waisting amount line is BW', the code of a dart value coefficient line is BW' and the code of chest-waist difference is BW, and clothing equivalent transfer waisting is achieved through the chest-waist difference, the dart value coefficient line and the waisting amount line. The problems that in the prior art, different specifications use one waisting amount and one chest and waist modeling, and comfort is poor are solved, and the original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting is capable of providing different waisting amounts and different types of chest and waist modeling according to different specifications of the clothing and being comfortable.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing cutting manufacture method, especially relate to the former figure tailoring method of a kind of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist.
Background technology
The waist moulding that clothes fill is closing waist amount, and whether closing waist amount adapts to the specification requirement of clothes fashion type, to human comfort, all very important to dress designing cutting manufacture.Prior art determines same closing waist amount by rule of thumb, is not suitable for garment size change.Most is representational is Japanese New Culture prototype, finds out to be less than numerical computations that clothing specification is greater than human body surface and to draw and cut out without the dress model cardboard of style name, then contrasts prototype cardboard and estimate closing waist amount by rule of thumb.These technology make the trial-manufacturing process of clothes take larger manpower and materials and time, are not suitable with the style type change demand of market-oriented clothes, greatly limit the development of clothing industry.Publication date is on March 12nd, 2014, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN 103622194A discloses and a kind ofly automatically determines the former figure tailoring method of the YVW of clothes armhole depth, according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion determination armhole girth, shoulder breadth, chest measurement, clothing is long, collar, waist saves the former number of clothes at high position, the upper of garment piece armhole is determined according to the former number of armhole girth by armhole girth rate, lower segmentation datum line length, automatically armhole points outside height is determined by the basic directrix of segmentation, the armhole degree of depth, instruct the upper of front and back armhole, the metamorphosis of lower perimeter line.The relative points of this technology does not describe the closely-related waist moulding with armhole periphery, and it is to the blank of closing waist technology as seen, makes the shape-designing of dress waist fuzzy.The armhole method of cutting out of above-mentioned technology deposits the indefinite problem of closing waist relation of armhole and waist moulding, the waist variation in moulding that clothes fill is subject to many limitations, there is larger uncertainty in the clothes of its cutting, cannot meet the cutting requirement of the waist variation in moulding of garment piece in the waist comfort level of human body.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is: solve prior art for problems such as not a kind of closing waist amount of jack per line type, the moulding of a kind of chest waist, comfort level differences, provide a kind of and can provide different closing waist amount, the moulding of different chest waist and the former figure tailoring method of the good clothes equivalent transfer closing waist of comfortableness according to different garment gauge type.
The present invention is the technical scheme solving the problems of the technologies described above employing, and a kind of former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, comprises the following steps:
A. save the former number of high clothes according to anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, chest breadth, across back and waist, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, and chest waist difference BW=B-W, determines that closing waist amount line code name is BW ", to economize coefficient of discharge line code name be BW '.Prior art is economized use a kind of fixed amount, the moulding of a kind of chest waist by rule of thumb for the closing waist of not jack per line type, chest, and its clothes chest waist comfort level is had a greatly reduced quality, and the present invention sets chest waist difference to be closing waist amount radix, can change according to clothing specification type and become.
B. BW '=BW*0.1 is determined, after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, chest protruding point BP is determined at 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, put thus to waistline vertically draw chest waist economize baseline, and determine cusp in chest waist province at chest waist 1/3 section, province baseline top place, chest waist province baseline is extended one times downwards and determines that chest waist saves cusp, province's coefficient of discharge line that the intersection point economizing baseline and waistline with chest waist is middle strokes and dots length is BW ', BW ' is economized coefficient of discharge line two ends to economize upper and lower cusp with chest waist and be connected, draw that chest waist economizes right line, chest waist economizes left line; The distance that this kind of chest waist economizes dart line and upper province point is generally upper and lower at 10cm, and by its dart than boil down to 10:0.1BW, the clothes that can need for different building shape provide corresponding chest and economize closing waist amount.
C. above 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE across back section, determine that back of the body waist economizes cusp, back of the body waist is economized upper cusp and is saved high * 0.05 with the distance=waist of BL BUST LINE across back section, by back of the body waist economize upper cusp draw vertical line downwards, economize equal altitudes according to chest waist, etc. dart determine to carry on the back waist save cusp, draw that back of the body waist economizes right line, back of the body waist economizes left line (waist namely below waistline economizes right line, carry on the back waist economize left line economizes right line with the chest waist below waistline respectively, chest waist economizes left line length and form consistent); Here economize with reference to chest waist and determine that back of the body waist economizes coefficient, the clothes that can need for different building shape provide the corresponding back of the body and economize closing waist amount.
D. determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 4)/2; be mid point with latasuture baseline and waistline intersection point, draw length for BW " closing waist amount line, the two ends of connection closing waist amount line and the two ends up and down of latasuture baseline, draw front side suture, rear side suture, by front and back side seam line together with garment piece outline line, put the garment piece that seam cutting is economized by closing waist amount, chest waist, back of the body waist province combines the clothes fashion realizing the common moulding of waist chest and back.In clothes, have 4 BW ', from BW, deduct BW ' * 4, will remain closing waist amount/2, just chest waist difference exhausted, ensure that designed waistline equals the former number of clothes waistline specification, achieving poor for chest waist equivalent transfer is the target of closing waist amount.
As preferably, in steps d, determine BW "=BW/4; drawing length from the intersection point of latasuture baseline and waistline along waistline to both sides is BW " closing waist amount line, up draw side seam line front cut pieces to latasuture baseline upper end from the end of closing waist amount line, draw lower side seam line down to front cut pieces base end points, by identical method with reference to side seam line, lower side seam line on abjugal suture line drawing rear garment piece, the upper and lower sides suture of foundation front and back garment piece, together with undressed garment piece outline line, puts the garment piece that seam cuts out the clothes fashion of closing waist moulding.Clothes are actual is divided into 4 closing waist positions designs, by BW/4, ensure that designed waistline equals the former number of clothes waistline specification, the target that to achieve the transfer of chest waist difference equivalent be closing waist amount.
As preferably, in steps d, determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 2)/2, cutting can be designed and only economize with closing waist amount, chest waist the garment piece realizing the clothes fashion of chest waist moulding.Like this, just chest waist difference all divided, ensure that designed waistline equals the former number of clothes waistline specification, achieving poor for chest waist equivalent transfer is the target of closing waist amount.
The present invention sets chest waist difference for closing waist amount, can carry out equivalent transfer closing waist design according to different garment style type, can obtain the different closing waist moulding of different garment style.Described vertical line, refers to garment piece above-below direction or 90 degree of right angle setting-outs based on certain line.In addition, the present invention only creates former several tailoring technique of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, and the picture of other position key element is cut out new technology and or carried out another item application for a patent for invention, and the present invention does not relate to, do not describe the core content of another item invention.Key element code name in the present invention is the difference with other method of cutting out, and cardboard can be drawn and be cut into clothes profiled sheeting by the technology of the present invention, model is used for the clothing cutting plate that batch production cut out by picture, also directly can be drawn by cloth and be cut into single-piece tailored costume garment piece.So the present invention does not draw paper cutting board in addition to compared estimate, does not additionally produce waste paper garbage, just can realize picture according to the former number design of clothes and cut out object, be a kind of garment cutting method of simple and practical environmental protection and energy saving.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: solve prior art for problems such as not a kind of closing waist amount of jack per line type, the moulding of a kind of chest waist, comfort level differences.Achieve and a kind ofly can provide different closing waist amount, the moulding of different chest waist and the former figure tailoring method of the good clothes equivalent transfer closing waist of comfortableness according to different garment gauge type.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is the schematic diagram of the former figure tailoring method embodiment 1 of clothes equivalent of the present invention transfer closing waist;
Accompanying drawing 2 is schematic diagrames of the former figure tailoring method embodiment 2 of clothes equivalent of the present invention transfer closing waist.
In figure: 1. BL BUST LINE chest breadth section, 2. waistline, 3. chest waist economizes upper cusp, and 4. chest waist saves cusp, 5. chest waist economizes right line, 6. chest waist economizes left line, 7. BL BUST LINE across back section, 8. carries on the back waist and economizes upper cusp, 9. carry on the back waist and save cusp, 10. carry on the back waist and economize right line, 11. back of the body waists economize left line, 12. latasuture baselines, suture on front side of in the of 13., suture on rear side of in the of 14., side seam line on 15. front cut pieces, side seam line under 16. front cut pieces, side seam line on 17. rear garment pieces, side seam line under 18. rear garment pieces, BW '. chest Yao Sheng economizes coefficient of discharge line, BW ". closing waist amount line.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, a kind of former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. save the former number of high clothes according to anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, chest breadth, across back and waist, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, and chest waist difference BW=B-W, determines that closing waist amount line code name is BW ", to economize coefficient of discharge line code name be BW '.
B. BW '=BW*0.1 is determined, after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, chest protruding point BP is determined at 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section 1, put to waistline 2 vertically picture chest waist province baseline thus, and determine cusp 3 in chest waist province at chest waist 1/3 section, province baseline top place, chest waist province baseline is extended one times downwards and determines that chest waist saves cusp 4, province's coefficient of discharge line that the intersection point economizing baseline and waistline with chest waist is middle strokes and dots length is BW ', BW ' is economized coefficient of discharge line two ends to economize upper and lower cusp with chest waist and be connected, draw that chest waist economizes right line 5, chest waist economizes left line 6.
C. above 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE across back section 7, determine that back of the body waist economizes cusp 8, back of the body waist is economized upper cusp and is saved high * 0.05 with the distance=waist of BL BUST LINE across back section, by back of the body waist economize upper cusp draw vertical line downwards, economize equal altitudes according to chest waist, etc. dart determine to carry on the back waist save cusp 9, draw the waist that back of the body waist economizes right line 10, back of the body waist economizes below left line 11(and waistline economize right line, carry on the back waist economize left line economizes right line with the chest waist below waistline respectively, chest waist economizes left line length and form consistent).
D. determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 4)/2; be mid point with latasuture baseline 12 and waistline intersection point, draw length for BW " closing waist amount line, the two ends of connection closing waist amount line and the two ends up and down of latasuture baseline, draw front side suture 13, rear side suture 14, together with front and back side seam line and undressed garment piece the outline line fine line of garment piece outline (namely in figure), put that seam cutting is economized by closing waist amount, chest waist, back of the body waist economizes the garment piece of combining the clothes fashion realizing the common moulding of waist chest and back.
Embodiment 2
In embodiment 2 as shown in Figure 2, a kind of former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, except the step a of embodiment 1, b, outside c, its difference is in steps d, determine BW "=BW/4, drawing length from the intersection point of latasuture baseline and waistline along waistline to both sides is BW " closing waist amount line, up side seam line 15 front cut pieces is drawn to latasuture baseline upper end from the end of closing waist amount line, lower side seam line 16 is drawn down to front cut pieces base end points, by identical method with reference to side seam line 17 on abjugal suture line drawing rear garment piece, lower side seam line 18, according to front and back garment pieces upper and lower sides suture and undressed garment piece the outline line fine line of garment piece outline (namely in figure) together with, put the garment piece that seam cuts out the clothes fashion of closing waist moulding.
Embodiment 3
In embodiment 3, a former figure tailoring method for clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, except the step a of embodiment 1, b, c, its difference is in steps d, determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 2)/2, cutting can be designed and only economize with closing waist amount, chest waist the garment piece realizing the clothes fashion of chest waist moulding.
The technology of the present invention no matter the former number of the clothing specification such as chest measurement, waistline to be how many all applicable, and do not want another paper cutting board to compared estimate, additionally do not produce waste paper garbage, there is the easy feature such as accurately of determination that is easy to operate, waist moulding, solve prior art for problems such as not a kind of closing waist amount of jack per line type, the moulding of a kind of chest waist, comfort level differences, achieve and a kind ofly can provide different closing waist amount, the moulding of different chest waist and the former figure tailoring method of the good clothes equivalent transfer closing waist of comfortableness according to different garment gauge type.
Claims (3)
1. a former figure tailoring method for clothes equivalent transfer closing waist, is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. save the former number of high clothes according to anthropometric data determination chest measurement, waistline, chest breadth, across back and waist, if chest measurement length is B, waistline length is W, and chest waist difference BW=B-W, determines that closing waist amount line code name is BW ", to economize coefficient of discharge line code name be BW ';
B. BW '=BW*0.1 is determined, after finishing garment piece outline line by clothing specification, chest protruding point BP is determined at 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE chest breadth section (1), put to waistline (2) vertically picture chest waist province baseline thus, and determine cusp (3) in chest waist province at chest waist 1/3 section, province baseline top place, chest waist province baseline is extended one times downwards and determines that chest waist saves cusp (4), province's coefficient of discharge line that the intersection point economizing baseline and waistline with chest waist is middle strokes and dots length is BW ', BW ' is economized coefficient of discharge line two ends to economize upper and lower cusp with chest waist and be connected, draw chest waist and economize right line (5), chest waist economizes left line (6),
C. above 1/2 place of BL BUST LINE across back section (7), determine that back of the body waist economizes upper cusp (8), back of the body waist is economized upper cusp and is saved high * 0.05 with the distance=waist of BL BUST LINE across back section, by back of the body waist economize upper cusp draw vertical line downwards, economize equal altitudes according to chest waist, etc. dart determine that back of the body waist is saved cusp (9), drawn back of the body waist and economize right line (10), carry on the back waist and economize left line (11);
D. determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 4)/2; be mid point with latasuture baseline (12) and waistline intersection point, draw length for BW " closing waist amount line, the two ends of connection closing waist amount line and the two ends up and down of latasuture baseline, draw front side suture (13), rear side suture (14), by front and back side seam line together with garment piece outline line, put the garment piece that seam cutting is economized by closing waist amount, chest waist, back of the body waist province combines the clothes fashion realizing the common moulding of waist chest and back.
2. the former figure tailoring method of a kind of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist according to claim 1, it is characterized in that in steps d, determine BW "=BW/4, drawing length from the intersection point of latasuture baseline and waistline along waistline to both sides is BW " closing waist amount line, up side seam line (15) front cut pieces is drawn to latasuture baseline upper end from the end of closing waist amount line, lower side seam line (16) is drawn down to front cut pieces base end points, by identical method with reference to side seam line (17) on abjugal suture line drawing rear garment piece, lower side seam line (18), the upper and lower sides suture of foundation front and back garment piece is together with undressed garment piece outline line, put the garment piece that seam cuts out the clothes fashion of closing waist moulding.
3. the former figure tailoring method of a kind of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist according to claim 1, it is characterized in that in steps d, determine BW "=(BW-BW ' * 2)/2, cutting can be designed and only economize with closing waist amount, chest waist the garment piece realizing the clothes fashion of chest waist moulding.
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| CN201410766173.4A CN104585943B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2014-12-12 | The former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist |
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| CN201410766173.4A CN104585943B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2014-12-12 | The former figure tailoring method of clothes equivalent transfer closing waist |
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| CN104585943B CN104585943B (en) | 2015-11-25 |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107581690A (en) * | 2017-11-06 | 2018-01-16 | 桐乡市大唐皮草有限公司 | Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method |
| CN110250633A (en) * | 2019-07-16 | 2019-09-20 | 西京学院 | A kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method |
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| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| CN1421169A (en) * | 2001-11-27 | 2003-06-04 | 葛俊康 | Girth size distributing method for coat cutting normally separated into six cut pieces |
| JP2004232103A (en) * | 2003-01-28 | 2004-08-19 | Yamakatsu Senko Kk | Method for making pattern for dress |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
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2014
- 2014-12-12 CN CN201410766173.4A patent/CN104585943B/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| CN1421169A (en) * | 2001-11-27 | 2003-06-04 | 葛俊康 | Girth size distributing method for coat cutting normally separated into six cut pieces |
| JP2004232103A (en) * | 2003-01-28 | 2004-08-19 | Yamakatsu Senko Kk | Method for making pattern for dress |
| CN102488343A (en) * | 2011-12-31 | 2012-06-13 | 东华大学 | Fit raglan sleeve model design and manufacturing method |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107581690A (en) * | 2017-11-06 | 2018-01-16 | 桐乡市大唐皮草有限公司 | Rimless Western-style clothes plate-making method |
| CN110250633A (en) * | 2019-07-16 | 2019-09-20 | 西京学院 | A kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method |
| CN110250633B (en) * | 2019-07-16 | 2021-02-23 | 西京学院 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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| CN104585943B (en) | 2015-11-25 |
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Effective date of registration: 20191212 Address after: 425000 Chuangye Road, Daoxian Industrial Park, Yongzhou City, Hunan Province Patentee after: Daoxian County zhandeng Industry Co., Ltd Address before: Yiwu city A District, Hu Zhailan Fan Town Yiwu city Zhejiang province 322009 Jinhua City Hu division clothing design studio Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |
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