CN110250633A - A kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method - Google Patents
A kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN110250633A CN110250633A CN201910641989.7A CN201910641989A CN110250633A CN 110250633 A CN110250633 A CN 110250633A CN 201910641989 A CN201910641989 A CN 201910641989A CN 110250633 A CN110250633 A CN 110250633A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method, including chest piece method of cutting out, chest cup tailoring method, chest piece and garment piece return and pull out ironing production method, cover lining method.The chest piece, which is cut, to be carried out on the garment piece ridden in after cutting, and chest piece is tailored using hair interlining, for padding chest.The chest cup is tailored into brassiere form and seizes conjunction at the hole of chest piece chest, is used for moulding female chest.The chest piece and garment piece are intended to return by hand to pull out ironing the shape handles, for meeting clothes shape needs.The cover lining is that chest piece (/ include chest cup) that will make is laminating to garment piece reverse side and integral with garment piece shape with connection suture fixation.It is characteristic of the invention that manual cover lining legal system is taken to make high-grade women's dress, chest piece is taken, chest cup, connection, split head is drawn and returns and pull out the techniques such as ironing to handle hair interlining, effective solution women's dress appearance and modeling, and it is finally reached the purpose of the stable women's dress beautiful curve.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to clothes manufacturing technology fields, and in particular to a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method.
Background technique
For a long time, clothes mass production mostly uses adhesive lining to make women's dress liner, increases from yield, for
The garment production of hair woolen material still uses adhesion technique to make, and is unfavorable for a mao needs for woolen material clothes quality.With regard to lining cloth production
It says, can not show a candle to the modeling requirement of black wood charcoal liner lining from the point of view of the stability and moulding of adhesive lining dress lining cloth.Adhesion technique production
Liner is easy the bad phenomenons such as blistering, corrugation, degumming in the process of wearing.Simultaneously as adhesive lining is also held in the production process
Strike-through, bonding parameter is easily caused to be difficult to determine, binding appts are with high costs, sewing thickness is excessive, that ironing is influenced by viscose is unsuitable
Phenomena such as splitting seam.Hereby, the invention discloses a kind of high-grade hair woolen material women's dress chest pieces to tailor process technology scheme.It is preferable to solve
The above problems, and take the integration of chest cup and chest piece to tailor the need for greatly meeting female chest feature in scheme
It wants.
Summary of the invention
For the above technical problems, the present invention tailors technique, the party using a kind of high-grade hair woolen material women's dress chest piece
Flexible, method is simple, lining cloth cutting is high-efficient, ironing skill is various, appropriate subjects physical characteristic with cutting for method.
The present invention is tailored using the integration of chest cup and chest piece substantially increases lining cloth cutting efficiency, takes to return and pulls out pressing techniques
The goodness of fit for adjusting clothes, lining cloth and human body, meets women physical characteristic and clothes plastic arts aesthetic feeling.
In order to reach above-mentioned technical effect, the present invention is realized especially by following technical scheme:
A kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method, comprising the following steps:
1) chest piece cutting be to ride on front cut pieces to carry out, setting by shoulder neck point a, the point b that attaches collar, split head point d, fold point g,
Attacking Midfielder's point p, long point h is served as a contrast, lining side point r, side waist point q, dickie point n, serves as a contrast and sticks up point m, shoulder breadth point c, backsight point e and the wide point f of rear shoulder piece
Line constitutes chest piece profile；
2) breastheight point k is set on chest piece, and breastheight point k is to be set based on garment piece breastheight point, and cut out by the center of circle of breastheight point k
Chest hole processed；And tailor chest cup using chest hole as standard, chest cup be amplify according to the chest hole pattern periphery after cutting 1.5 centimetres cut and
At；
3) setting chest piece provincial highway, provincial highway on the radian line segment that point m and side waist point q are constituted are stuck up in lining be in radian line segment
Centre, and small-sized provincial highway is tailored on chest cup；
4) by chest cup small-sized provincial highway and chest piece provincial highway using joint strip technique sew, sewed chest cup and be installed to chest piece chest
At hole, flush joint is taken to reinforce stitching production；
5) the straight waist provincial highway of date core shaped is set at garment piece waistline, cloth sewing is saved using pad；
6) chest piece and garment piece are returned after pulling out ironing, connection is set on the periphery of chest piece, the position that connection is restrained has, refutes
Head, left front, bottom edge and latasuture；
7) will be fixed after chest piece and garment piece matching, seam is drawn roughly using manual suture needle, hanging is pasted on connection, and ironing is viscous
Close, after take the fixed connection periphery of HERRINGBONE STITCH, for being fitted into chest piece；
8) split head is drawn, split head is rolled out to form moulding of turning up (/ wooden stick auxiliary can be taken to complete to turn up moulding), takes craft
Needle suture.
Further, attach collar point b, split head point d, fold point g, Attacking Midfielder's point p, lining grows the sideline that is constituted point h and compares garment piece
Left front sideline is narrow into 1.0 centimetres, for cutting chest piece left front edge；Serving as a contrast side point r and serving as a contrast the width that long point h is constituted is 14 centimetres,
For cutting chest piece bottom width, and it is shorter than bottom edge into 4.0 centimetres；The width that side waist point q and Attacking Midfielder point p is constituted is 15 centimetres,
For cutting chest piece waist width.
Further, chest point n is 3.0 centimetres apart from garment piece bust a little louder, and it is 3.0 centimetres that lining, which sticks up point m apart from dickie point n,
For oxter dart to be arranged；Backsight point e is 10 centimetres apart from shoulder breadth point c, for the lining production of rear body shoulder；Afterwards the wide point f of shoulder piece away from
It is 4.5 centimetres from shoulder neck point a, for the lining production of rear body shoulder；The rear body shoulder lining is arranged with chest piece shoulder disjunctor.
Further, the calculation method of chest pore radius are as follows: bust/10 ÷ 2.
Further, chest piece returns that pull out be that moulding heat treatment is carried out by the way of hand-ironed, under rib, shoulder, shirtfront
At left front using flatiron return inward into/promote by the way of heat and wet treatment, be allowed to the full form of chest cup and highlight.
Further, garment piece returns that pull out be that moulding heat treatment is carried out by the way of hand-ironed, return under rib into/promote,
Waist unplugs, side seam is returned and promoted into/promote, anterior part of chest return into/.
The invention has the benefit that
The present invention advocates a kind of high-grade hair woolen material women's dress chest piece and tailors technique, belongs to personalized high-grade clothing custom technology side
Case.From the point of view of personalized customization market trend, this technology can preferably solve the three-dimensional contouring of women's dress chest piece, can solve not androgynous
The dress requirement of type, can greatly meet the wide degree of women clothing chest, meanwhile, the cost of production is also cheaper.From clothes
Arty angle can promote women's dress quality, have more a few minutes aesthetic feeling.From the point of view of cutting scheme, chest piece is taken to rely on the quick of garment piece
Open up upright stone tablet cutting, rear shoulder piece again disjunctor to chest piece on the shoulders on, and in the chest particular design chest hole of chest piece, by the brassiere shape of chest cup
State is mounted on the formative nature of significant increase women clothing chest on chest hole.This programme uses the consistent chest piece of connection and clothing again
Piece, slight connection not only solve the matching degree of chest piece, and solve the goodness of fit of garment piece.Ironing is pulled out finally, using to return again
Artisan craftsmanship handles chest piece and garment piece moulding, and feature is that flexible, personalized high, lining cloth size is tailored and adjusted, refutes according to figure
Head draws seam preferably to express split head to turn up gesture using eight word needles.Hair woolen material can convey clothes using artisan craftsmanship sewing well
Artistic environment, and have the characteristic of aptamer.The present invention has many characteristics, such as that easily operated, cutting, ironing processing, cost of manufacture are low.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is chest piece structural schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 2 is chest piece of the invention, chest cup, provincial highway cutting process schematic representation；
Fig. 3 is chest cup manufacture craft schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 4 is that chest piece of the invention seizes province, installation chest cup process schematic representation；
Fig. 5 is chest piece blocking process schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 6 is chest piece suture connection process schematic representation of the invention；
Fig. 7 is garment piece provincial highway structural schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 8 is that garment piece of the invention returns and pulls out ironing technology schematic diagram；
Fig. 9 is chest piece and garment piece contraposition schematic diagram of the invention；
Figure 10 is cover lining process schematic representation of the invention；
Figure 11 is that connection of the invention scrapes sizing process schematic diagram；
Figure 12 is the fixed chest piece process schematic representation of cutting needle of the invention；
Figure 13 is volume split head process schematic representation of the invention；
Figure 14 is drawing split head process schematic representation of the invention；
Figure 15 is shoulder piece process schematic representation after fixation of the invention；
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the specific example of the present invention, technical solution of the present invention is clearly and completely described, it is clear that
Described example is only a part of example of the present invention, rather than whole examples.Based on the example in the present invention, this field
Those of ordinary skill's every other example obtained without making creative work belongs to what the present invention protected
Range.
The present invention provides a kind of high-grade hair woolen material women's dress chest pieces to tailor technique, and this method, which has, cuts flexible, method letter
Easily, lining cloth cutting is high-efficient, ironing skill is clear, appropriate subjects physical characteristic.Chest cup and chest piece are used in technical solution
Integration tailor substantially increase lining cloth cut efficiency, take return pull out pressing techniques adjustment clothes, lining cloth and human body the goodness of fit,
Meet women physical characteristic.Specific cut requires；The chest of chest piece cuts chest cup lining, and by rear shoulder piece disjunctor to chest piece on the shoulders
On.Chest cup lining cloth is equipped with provincial highway, seizes and closes metathorax cup lining protuberance.Chest cup lining is formed with chest piece chest hole to be matched, and is saved and is sutured together with rib
Highlight entire chest piece chest.Using to return to pull out pressing techniques and be heat-treated chest piece and garment piece again makes chest and waist have obvious bumps
Type, chest piece and garment piece rest the head on tool cover lining using chest.Chest piece periphery is equipped with connection, and connection is with garment piece chimeric to stablize chest piece.Mainly
The following steps are included:
Step 1；Chest piece method of cutting out；Step 2: chest cup tailoring method；Step 3: chest piece and garment piece, which are returned, pulls out ironing production
Method；Step 4: cover lining method.The chest piece, which is cut, to be carried out on the garment piece ridden in after cutting, and chest piece is cut out using hair interlining
System, for padding chest.The chest cup is tailored into brassiere form and seizes conjunction at the hole of chest piece chest, is used for moulding female chest
Portion.The chest piece and garment piece are intended to return by hand to pull out ironing the shape handles, for meeting human body needs.The cover lining is will to make
The chest piece (including chest cup) performed is laminating to garment piece reverse side and integral with garment piece shape with connection suture fixation.Spy of the invention
Point is that manual cover lining legal system is taken to make high-grade women's dress, takes chest piece, chest cup, connection, draws split head and return and pull out the techniques such as ironing to locate
Hair interlining, the effective solution plumpness of women's dress style of bust are managed, and is finally reached the purpose of stable clothes shape.
It as shown in figures 1-4, is that chest piece, chest cup tailor process.Concrete scheme is；Setting chest piece cutting is to ride in preceding clothing
Piece is to carry out.By shoulder neck point a, the point b that attaches collar, split head point d, fold point g, Attacking Midfielder's point p, serve as a contrast long point h, lining side point r, side waist point q, lining
Chest point n, lining stick up point m, shoulder breadth point c, backsight point e and the wide point f line of rear shoulder piece and constitute chest piece profile.Chest piece is to compare garment piece in cutting
Split head, left front edge are 1.0 centimetres narrow.Setting chest piece cuts a chest hole at breastheight point k, and the size in chest hole is according to female chest
Portion's size is calculated.Bust sizes of the present invention are set as " 100 " centimetre, are 5.0 centimetres by calculating chest pore radius.And with chest
Hole is that standard tailors chest cup, and chest cup is to amplify 1.5 centimetres according to the chest hole pattern periphery after cutting to cut, for blending chest
Solid seam is given at the chest hole of lining, chest cup uses hair interlining, and chest cup is equipped with a small-sized provincial highway, and the production of chest cup is by this small-sized province
Road suture, is sewed using joint strip technique, and seam mark form is triangle needle tracking.Chest piece has a provincial highway in rib, setting chest piece save away from for
12 centimetres, province is 2.5 centimetres wide, and saving point apart from breastheight point k is 3.0 centimetres, for cutting provincial highway.Chest piece provincial highway is using joint strip work
Skill sewing, seam mark form are triangle needle tracking.The chest cup that sewed is installed at chest piece chest hole, and flush joint is taken to reinforce stitching system
Make.
As shown in Figure 5, Figure 6, be chest piece return pull out and chest piece suture connection technique.Chest piece, which is returned, to be pulled out, and chest piece returns that pull out be using hand
The mode of work ironing carries out the moulding heat treatment of black charcoal lining cloth.The position of processing has, and uses under rib, at shoulder, shirtfront left front
Flatiron returns the mode heat and wet treatment into (/ propulsion) inward, is allowed to the full form of chest cup and highlights.It plates below the waist of chest piece directly i.e.
It can.Connection is sutured under the rib of chest piece, at bottom pendulum, left front and split head, 1.0 centimetres of connection width, camlet lining is taken, with oblique silk
Production.Camlet is sewn on chest piece with flat stitch on one side, takes manual three angle seam marks to be fixed on garment piece on one side, for steady
Determine chest piece and restrains chest piece.Connection suture requires to tighten gimmick under rib, and split head is slightly tightened, and the sense of fullness of chest piece is enhanced.
It as shown in Figure 7, Figure 8, is that garment piece seizes province's technique and garment piece returns and pulls out ironing technology.The garment piece returns to pull out first to be sewed before
Provincial highway sets garment piece provincial highway and saves as Zhi Yao, and 23 centimetres of length, 2.0 centimetres of width, provincial highway moulding is date core shaped, and provincial highway is in clothing
At piece waistline.Sewing provincial highway takes pad to save cloth production, and pad saves cloth and takes leftover bits and pieces material.It is scalded together with seam is split after provincial highway suture
It opens, for reinforcing the effect of provincial highway and parting ironing.For strengthening garment piece chest protuberance, waist is collapsed, and it is bent to mould clothes women
Line beauty.Garment piece returns to pull out returns the degree pulled out identical with chest piece, returns such as Fig. 9 garment piece and pulls out, and garment piece returns that pull out be by the way of hand-ironed
Carry out the moulding heat treatment of hair cloth.The position of processing has, return under rib unpluged into (/ promote), waist, side seam return into (/ push away
Into), anterior part of chest returns into (/ promote).Using on one side returning the mode of operation heat and wet treatment into (/ while unplug), being allowed to garment piece by hand
The modeling formation that the full shape of chest, waist collapse.
It is cover lining technique as shown in Figure 10~15.Cover lining is that chest piece and garment piece are fixed together, using boiling hot tool (/ chest
Pillow) carry out cover lining.Chest piece is set under, upper, the chest of chest piece and garment piece must align identical garment piece.Chest piece is preliminary with garment piece
Seam is drawn roughly using manual suture needle, 2.0 centimetres of stitching, cotton thick line makes.Manual suture carries out drawing seam according to the profile of chest piece,
It is taken on the shoulders with waist and refunds skill of handling needles drawing seam, fix chest piece and garment piece again.After cover lining fixes, the hanging on connection
Paste, and ironing bonds, after take the fixed connection periphery of HERRINGBONE STITCH, for being fitted into chest piece.Split head suture takes " eight word needles " to draw
The production of split head technique sets a wooden stick for split head to form moulding of turning up to rolling out.Manual needle is taken to suture, garment piece front not thread cast-off
Mark is advisable.Shoulder lining takes cutting needle to fix afterwards, and 1.0 centimetres of needle gage, 0.8 centimetre of stitching width.
While there has been shown and described that example of the invention, for the ordinary skill in the art, Ke Yili
Solution can carry out a variety of variations, modification, replacement without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention and be become to these examples
Type, the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended.
Claims (6)
1. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method, which comprises the following steps:
1) chest piece cutting is to ride on front cut pieces to carry out, and setting is by shoulder neck point a, the point b that attaches collar, split head point d, fold point g, Attacking Midfielder
Point p, long point h is served as a contrast, lining side point r, side waist point q, dickie point n, serves as a contrast and sticks up point m, shoulder breadth point c, backsight point e and the wide point f line of rear shoulder piece
Constitute chest piece profile；
2) breastheight point k is set on chest piece, and breastheight point k is to be set based on garment piece breastheight point, and tailor chest using breastheight point k as the center of circle
Hole；And chest cup is tailored by standard of chest hole, chest cup is to amplify 1.5 centimetres according to the chest hole pattern periphery after cutting to cut；
3) setting chest piece provincial highway on the radian line segment that point m and side waist point q are constituted is stuck up in lining, and tailors small-sized province on chest cup
Road；
4) by chest cup small-sized provincial highway and chest piece provincial highway using joint strip technique sew, sewed chest cup and be installed to chest piece chest hole
Place takes flush joint to reinforce stitching production；
5) the straight waist provincial highway of date core shaped is set at garment piece waistline, cloth sewing is saved using pad；
6) chest piece and garment piece are returned after pulling out ironing, connection is set on the periphery of chest piece, the position that connection is restrained has, split head, door
The flap, bottom edge and latasuture；
7) will be fixed after chest piece and garment piece matching, seam is drawn roughly using manual suture needle, hanging is pasted on connection, and ironing bonds,
After take the fixed connection periphery of HERRINGBONE STITCH, for being fitted into chest piece；
8) split head is drawn, split head is rolled out to form moulding of turning up, manual needle is taken to suture.
2. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the point b that attaches collar, split head point
D, it is narrower than garment piece left front sideline into 1.0 centimetres to turn down the sideline that the long point h of point g, Attacking Midfielder's point p, lining is constituted, for cutting chest piece
Left front edge；Serving as a contrast side point r and serving as a contrast the width that long point h is constituted is 14 centimetres, for cutting chest piece bottom width, and it is shorter than bottom edge into
4.0 centimetre；The width that side waist point q and Attacking Midfielder point p is constituted is 15 centimetres, for cutting chest piece waist width.
3. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that dickie point n is apart from clothing
Piece bust is 3.0 centimetres a little louder, and it is 3.0 centimetres that lining, which sticks up point m apart from dickie point n, for oxter dart to be arranged；Backsight point e distance
Shoulder breadth point c is 10 centimetres, for the lining production of rear body shoulder；The wide point f of shoulder piece is 4.5 centimetres apart from shoulder neck point a afterwards, is used for rear body shoulder
Portion's lining production；The rear body shoulder lining is arranged with chest piece shoulder disjunctor.
4. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the calculating of chest pore radius
Method are as follows: bust/10 ÷ 2.
5. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that chest piece return pull out be use
The mode of hand-ironed carries out moulding heat treatment, under rib, at shoulder, shirtfront left front using flatiron return inward into/promote side
Formula heat and wet treatment is allowed to the full form of chest cup and highlights.
6. a kind of mao of woolen material women's dress chest piece tailoring method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that garment piece return pull out be use
The mode of hand-ironed carries out moulding heat treatment, return under rib into/promote, waist unplugs, side seam return into/promote, anterior part of chest returns
Into/promote.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201910641989.7A CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201910641989.7A CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN110250633A true CN110250633A (en) | 2019-09-20 |
| CN110250633B CN110250633B (en) | 2021-02-23 |
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| CN201910641989.7A Active CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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| DE1930604A1 (en) * | 1969-06-16 | 1970-12-23 | Rathgeber Fa Karl | Press mould for bathing costume breast cups |
| CN202095548U (en) * | 2011-06-30 | 2012-01-04 | 黄新铧 | Disposable breast milk overflow prevention pad |
| CN104585943A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-05-06 | 胡亨有 | Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting |
| CN104605564A (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2015-05-13 | 吴国英 | Chest lining sewing method for suit or overcoat |
| CN106136352A (en) * | 2015-04-23 | 2016-11-23 | 叶正瑜 | A kind of unnotched breast pad of water accepting layer and production method thereof |
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2019
- 2019-07-16 CN CN201910641989.7A patent/CN110250633B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE1930604A1 (en) * | 1969-06-16 | 1970-12-23 | Rathgeber Fa Karl | Press mould for bathing costume breast cups |
| CN202095548U (en) * | 2011-06-30 | 2012-01-04 | 黄新铧 | Disposable breast milk overflow prevention pad |
| CN104585943A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-05-06 | 胡亨有 | Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting |
| CN104605564A (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2015-05-13 | 吴国英 | Chest lining sewing method for suit or overcoat |
| CN106136352A (en) * | 2015-04-23 | 2016-11-23 | 叶正瑜 | A kind of unnotched breast pad of water accepting layer and production method thereof |
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| Title |
|---|
| 上海纺织高等专科学校: "《服装结构和工艺设计（第二版）》", 31 August 1998, 中国纺织出版社 * |
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| 房世鹏: "《衣领袖结构设计与制板》", 31 January 2015, 中国纺织出版社 * |
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Effective date of registration: 20220811 Address after: 314500 in Maoshan City Industrial Park, Puyuan Town, Tongxiang City, Jiaxing City, Zhejiang Province Patentee after: Baifu Garment Technology (Zhejiang) Co., Ltd. Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University |