CN110250633B - Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method - Google Patents
Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method Download PDFInfo
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- CN110250633B CN110250633B CN201910641989.7A CN201910641989A CN110250633B CN 110250633 B CN110250633 B CN 110250633B CN 201910641989 A CN201910641989 A CN 201910641989A CN 110250633 B CN110250633 B CN 110250633B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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Abstract
The invention discloses a woolen cloth female suit chest interlining cutting method, which comprises a chest interlining cutting method, a chest cup cutting method, a chest interlining and garment piece filing ironing manufacturing method and a lining covering method. The chest piece is cut on the cut garment piece, and the chest piece is cut by adopting a black carbon lining and used for lining the chest. The breast cup is tailored into a bra shape and is stitched at the hole of the breast lining for shaping the female breast. And the chest linings and the garment pieces are subjected to manual drawing, ironing and molding treatment and are used for meeting the requirement of the appearance of the garment. The lining is formed by combining the manufactured chest lining (/ including the chest cup) on the back surface of the garment piece and sewing and fixing the chest lining with a guy strap to form a whole with the garment piece. The invention is characterized in that the high-grade suit-dress is made by adopting a manual lining method, and the black carbon lining is processed by adopting the processes of chest lining, breast cups, traction belts, lapel pulling, drawing and ironing and the like, thereby effectively solving the appearance modeling of the suit-dress and finally achieving the purpose of stabilizing the beauty of the suit-dress.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing, and particularly relates to a woolen cloth female garment chest piece cutting method.
Background
For a long time, the female garment linings are mostly manufactured by adopting the adhesive linings in the mass production of garments, the yield is improved, and the garment production of woolen fabrics still adopts the adhesive process, which is not beneficial to the requirement of the quality of woolen fabrics garments. In terms of lining cloth manufacturing, the stability and the shape of the lining cloth of the adhesive lining clothes are far less than the shape requirement of the black carbon lining cloth. The lining produced by the bonding process is easy to have the undesirable phenomena of foaming, wrinkling, degumming and the like in the wearing process. Meanwhile, the adhesive liner is easy to cause the phenomena of adhesive leakage, difficult determination of adhesive parameters, high cost of adhesive equipment, overlarge sewing thickness, difficulty in slit splitting due to the influence of the adhesive during ironing and the like in the manufacturing process. The invention discloses a technical scheme for cutting a woman's chest piece made of high-grade woolen cloth. The problems are well solved, and the requirement of female breast characteristics is greatly met by adopting the integrated tailoring of the breast cup and the breast lining in the scheme.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the technical problems, the invention adopts the process for cutting the chest interlining of the high-grade woolen cloth female garment, and the method has the characteristics of flexible cutting, simple method, high cutting efficiency of the interlining, various ironing skills and suitability for individual body shapes.
The invention adopts the integration cutting of the breast cup and the breast lining to greatly improve the cutting efficiency of the lining cloth, adopts the pressing and ironing technology to adjust the fit degree of the clothing, the lining cloth and the human body, and meets the requirements of the female body shape characteristics and the artistic aesthetic feeling of the clothing modeling.
In order to achieve the technical effects, the invention is specifically realized by the following technical scheme:
a woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method comprises the following steps:
1) the chest interlining cutting is carried out on the basis of a front garment piece, and a chest interlining contour is formed by connecting a shoulder neck point a, a collar stitching point b, a lapel point d, a folding point g, a front waist point p, a interlining length point h, a lining side point r, a side waist point q, a chest interlining point n, a lining warp point m, a shoulder width point c, a back interlining point e and a back shoulder interlining width point f;
2) arranging a chest height point k on the chest lining, wherein the chest height point k is set based on the chest height points of the garment pieces, and cutting a chest hole by taking the chest height point k as the center of a circle; cutting a chest cup by taking the chest hole as a standard, wherein the chest cup is cut by enlarging the periphery of the cut chest hole by 1.5 cm according to the pattern of the cut chest hole;
3) setting a chest interlining dart on a radian line segment formed by an interlining warping point m and a side waist point q, wherein the dart is positioned in the middle of the radian line segment, and cutting a small dart on a chest cup;
4) sewing the small dart on the breast cup and the breast lining dart by adopting a strip sticking process, mounting the sewn breast cup at a breast lining chest hole, and manufacturing by adopting a flat seam reinforcing stitch;
5) arranging a date-pit-shaped straight waist dart at the waistline of the garment piece, and sewing by using cushion dart cloth strips;
6) after the chest interlining and the garment piece are drawn and ironed, a traction belt is arranged on the periphery of the chest interlining, and the parts which are dragged by the traction belt are provided with lappets, hemlines and side seams;
7) matching and fixing the chest interlining and the garment piece, roughly pulling and sewing by adopting a manual sewing needle, hanging paste on a traction band, ironing and bonding, and fixing the periphery of the traction band by adopting a triangular needle method for embedding the chest interlining;
8) and (3) pulling the lapel, rolling out the lapel to form an eversion model (/ the eversion model can be completed by adopting a wood bar for assistance), and sewing by adopting a manual needle.
Furthermore, side lines formed by the collar stitching point b, the lapel point d, the folding point g, the front waist point p and the lining length point h are all 1.0 cm narrower than side lines of the front fly of the garment piece and are used for cutting the edge of the front fly of the chest lining; the width formed by the lining side point r and the lining length point h is 14 cm, is used for cutting the width of the bottom of the chest interlining, and is 4.0 cm shorter than the bottom edge; the width formed by the side waist point q and the front waist point p is 15 cm, and is used for cutting the width of the waist of the chest piece.
Furthermore, the distance between the chest point n and the chest circumference big point of the garment piece is 3.0 cm, the distance between the lining upwarping point m and the lining chest point n is 3.0 cm, and the lining upwarping point m and the lining chest point n are used for setting the armpit province; the distance between the back lining point e and the shoulder width point c is 10 cm, and the back lining point e is used for manufacturing a back shoulder lining; the distance between the back shoulder lining width point f and the shoulder neck point a is 4.5 cm, and the back shoulder lining width point f is used for manufacturing a back shoulder lining; the back shoulder lining and the chest lining are connected with each other.
Further, the chest hole radius calculation method comprises the following steps: bust/10 ÷ 2.
Furthermore, the shaping heat treatment is carried out on the chest lining by adopting a manual ironing mode, and the heat moisture treatment is carried out on the positions under the ribs, the shoulders and the front chest fly by adopting an iron inward returning/pushing mode, so that the plump shape of the chest cup is obvious.
Furthermore, the garment piece is subjected to modeling heat treatment by adopting a manual ironing mode, and is returned/pushed under the rib, the waist is pulled out, the swing seam is returned/pushed, and the chest is returned/pushed.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention discloses a process for cutting a chest piece of high-grade woolen cloth women's dress, belonging to the technical scheme of personalized high-grade clothing customization. From the view of personalized customized market trend, the technology can better solve the three-dimensional shape of the female bra, can meet the wearing requirements of different body types, can greatly meet the width of the female bra, and has lower production cost. The quality of the women's dress can be improved from the perspective of clothing art, and the beauty is increased. According to the cutting scheme, the rapid tombstone cutting of the chest interlining depending on the garment piece is adopted, the back shoulder interlining is connected to the shoulder of the chest interlining, a chest hole is specially designed in the chest of the chest interlining, and the modeling performance of the chest of the female garment is greatly improved by means of the bra shape of the chest cup arranged on the chest hole. The scheme adopts a traction belt technology to stabilize the chest interlining and the garment pieces, and the small traction belt not only solves the matching degree of the chest interlining, but also solves the matching degree of the garment pieces. Finally, the shaping of the chest lining and the garment piece is processed by adopting a combined ironing manual process, and the method has the characteristics of flexibility, high individuation, tailoring and adjusting of the size of the lining cloth according to the body type, and better expression of the lapel eversion trend by adopting splayed stitch sewing for lapel. The woolen cloth material adopts manual sewing technology, can well convey the artistic atmosphere of clothes, and has the characteristic of an aptamer. The invention has the characteristics of easy operation, cutting, ironing treatment, low manufacturing cost and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the chest piece construction of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the chest piece, chest cup and dart cutting process of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a manufacturing process of the breast cup of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the process of stitching and installing a breast cup of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the present invention of a breast lining ironing process;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the chest piece suture drawstring process of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a dart of a garment of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a schematic drawing of a garment piece ironing process of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the present invention showing the alignment of the chest piece and garment pieces;
FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the lining process of the present invention;
FIG. 11 is a schematic view of a belt doctoring process of the present invention;
FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the present invention showing the process of fastening a chest piece with a triangular needle;
figure 13 is a schematic view of the lapel process of the present invention;
fig. 14 is a schematic view of the lapel process of the present invention;
FIG. 15 is a schematic view of the process of securing the back shoulder pad of the present invention;
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific examples of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described examples are only a part of examples of the present invention, but not all examples. All other examples, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art without making any creative effort based on the examples in the present invention, belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
The invention provides a process for cutting a chest piece of high-grade woolen cloth female clothes, which has the characteristics of flexible cutting, simple method, high cutting efficiency of lining cloth, clear ironing skill and suitability for individual body shapes. In the technical scheme, the integrated cutting of the breast cup and the breast lining is adopted, so that the cutting efficiency of the lining cloth is greatly improved, the matching degree of the garment, the lining cloth and the human body is adjusted by adopting a pressing and ironing technology, and the female body shape characteristics are met. Specific cutting requirements; the chest cup lining is cut on the chest of the chest lining, and the back shoulder lining is connected with the shoulder of the chest lining. The bra lining cloth is provided with a dart, and the bra lining is raised after stitching. The chest cup lining is matched with the chest lining chest hole, and the whole chest lining chest is highlighted by the costal suture. And then the chest lining and the garment piece are subjected to heat treatment by adopting a drawing ironing technology to enable the chest and the waist to have obvious concave-convex shapes, and the chest lining and the garment piece are lined by adopting a chest pillow tool. The periphery of the chest lining is provided with a traction band which is embedded with the cut pieces to stabilize the chest lining. The method mainly comprises the following steps:
step one; a chest piece cutting method; step two: a breast cup tailoring method; step three: a method for ironing and manufacturing a chest lining and a garment piece; step four: and (4) a lining covering method. The chest piece is cut on the cut garment piece, and the chest piece is cut by adopting a black carbon lining and used for lining the chest. The breast cup is tailored into a bra shape and is stitched at the hole of the breast lining for shaping the female breast. The chest piece and the garment pieces are subjected to manual pressing, ironing and modeling treatment and are used for meeting the requirements of a human body. The lining is formed by covering the manufactured chest lining (including a chest cup) on the back surface of the garment piece and sewing and fixing the chest lining and the garment piece into a whole by using a traction band. The invention is characterized in that the high-grade women's dress is manufactured by adopting a manual lining covering method, and the black carbon lining is processed by adopting the processes of chest lining, chest cups, traction belts, lapel drawing, drawing and ironing and the like, thereby effectively solving the fullness of the chest shape of the women's dress and finally achieving the purpose of stabilizing the appearance of the dress.
As shown in FIGS. 1 to 4, the process of cutting the chest piece and the chest cup is described. The specific scheme is as follows; the set chest piece cutting is carried out by depending on the front garment piece. The chest interlining contour is formed by connecting a shoulder neck point a, a collar stitching point b, a lapel point d, a folding point g, a front waist point p, a interlining length point h, a lining side point r, a side waist point q, a lining chest point n, a lining upwarp point m, a shoulder width point c, a back interlining point e and a back shoulder interlining width point f. The cut chest lining is 1.0 cm narrower than the lapel of the cut piece and the edge of the front fly. And setting a chest hole of the chest piece at a chest height point k, and calculating the size of the chest hole according to the size of the female chest. The chest size of the invention is set to be 100 cm, and the radius of the chest hole is calculated to be 5.0 cm. And cutting the chest cup by taking the chest hole as a standard, wherein the chest cup is cut by enlarging the periphery of the cut chest hole by 1.5 cm according to the shape of the cut chest hole and used for fixing seams at the chest hole mixed with the chest lining, the chest cup adopts the black carbon lining and is provided with a small dart, the chest cup is manufactured by sewing the small dart, and the dart is sewn by adopting a tape sticking process, and the sewing form is a triangular stitch. The chest interlining is provided with a dart below the rib, the dart of the chest interlining is set to be 12 cm, the dart is set to be 2.5 cm, and the dart is set to be 3.0 cm away from the chest height point k, so that the dart is used for cutting the dart. The chest interlining dart is sewn by adopting a strip attaching process, and the sewing form is a triangular stitch. The sewn breast cup is arranged at the breast hole of the breast lining and is made by adopting a flat sewing reinforcing stitch.
As shown in fig. 5 and 6, the technique of the chest piece withdrawing and sewing and traction is adopted. The step of the chest interlining is to perform modeling heat treatment on the black carbon interlining by adopting a manual ironing mode. The treated part is subjected to heat-moisture treatment by adopting a mode that an iron is returned inwards (/ pushed) at the positions below the ribs, the shoulders and the front chest fly, so that the plump shape of the breast cup is obvious. The lower part of the waist part of the chest piece is ironed straight. The traction belt is sewed under the rib, the bottom hem, the front fly and the lapel of the chest lining, the width of the traction belt is 1.0 cm, and the traction belt is made of feather yarn lining and inclined yarns. The feather yarns are sewn on the chest piece by flat stitches and are fixed on the garment piece by manual triangular stitches for stabilizing the chest piece and restraining the chest piece. The traction suture requires a tightening method under the rib, and the lapel is slightly tightened, so that the fullness of the chest lining is enhanced.
As shown in figures 7 and 8, the process is a process for stitching and ironing the garment pieces. The dart is sewn before the garment pieces are pulled out, the dart is set to be straight waist dart, the length is 23 cm, the width is 2.0 cm, the dart is shaped into a date core, and the dart is positioned at the waistline of the garment pieces. The sewing dart adopts cloth strip for making, and the cloth strip for making adopts leftover material. And the split seam is ironed after the dart is sewn, so that the dart and split seam ironing function is realized. The garment is used for strengthening bust bulging and waist collapse of the garment pieces and shaping female curves of the garment. The degree of the garment piece return drawing is the same as that of the chest lining return drawing, and the garment piece return drawing is the modeling heat treatment of the woolen cloth by adopting a manual ironing mode as shown in figure 9. The treated parts include the infracostal approach (/ push), the lumbar region pull-out, the suture approach (/ push), and the prothorax approach (/ push). The hot-wet treatment is carried out in an operation mode of manually returning while pulling out, so that the chest of the garment piece is full and the waist is collapsed.
As shown in FIGS. 10-15, a lining process is performed. The lining is to fix the chest lining and the garment piece together and to adopt a ironing tool (/ chest pillow) to carry out lining. The chest piece is arranged at the lower part, the garment piece is arranged at the upper part, and the chest pieces of the chest piece and the garment piece are aligned and matched. The chest lining and the garment piece are roughly pulled and sewn by a manual sewing needle, the stitches are 2.0 cm, and the cotton thick lines are manufactured. The manual sewing is carried out according to the contour of the chest piece, the reverse needle drawing sewing is adopted on the shoulder and the waist, and the chest piece and the garment piece are fixed again. After the lining is fixed, the traction band is coated with paste, ironed and bonded, and then the periphery of the traction band is fixed by adopting a triangular needle method for embedding the chest lining. The lapel sewing is made by adopting a 'splayed needle' lapel pulling process, and a wood rod is set to roll out the lapel to form an eversion model. The front of the garment piece is preferably free from missing stitches by adopting manual needle sewing. The back shoulder lining is fixed by a triangular needle, the needle pitch is 1.0 cm, and the stitch width is 0.8 cm.
Although examples of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these examples without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims (3)
1. A woolen cloth female chest interlining cutting method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) the chest interlining cutting is carried out on the basis of a front garment piece, and a chest interlining contour is formed by connecting a shoulder neck point a, a collar stitching point b, a lapel point d, a folding point g, a front waist point p, a interlining length point h, a lining side point r, a side waist point q, a chest interlining point n, a lining warp point m, a shoulder width point c, a back interlining point e and a back shoulder interlining width point f;
2) arranging a chest height point k on the chest lining, wherein the chest height point k is set based on the chest height points of the garment pieces, and cutting a chest hole by taking the chest height point k as the center of a circle; cutting a chest cup by taking the chest hole as a standard, wherein the chest cup is cut by enlarging the periphery of the cut chest hole by 1.5 cm according to the pattern of the cut chest hole;
3) setting a chest interlining dart on a radian line segment formed by an interlining warping point m and a side waist point q, and cutting a small dart on a chest cup;
4) sewing the small dart on the breast cup and the breast lining dart by adopting a strip sticking process, mounting the sewn breast cup at a breast lining chest hole, and manufacturing by adopting a flat seam reinforcing stitch;
5) arranging a date-pit-shaped straight waist dart at the waistline of the garment piece, and sewing by using cushion dart cloth strips;
6) after the chest interlining and the garment piece are drawn and ironed, a traction belt is arranged on the periphery of the chest interlining, and the parts which are dragged by the traction belt are provided with lappets, hemlines and side seams;
7) matching and fixing the chest interlining and the garment piece, roughly pulling and sewing by adopting a manual sewing needle, hanging paste on a traction band, ironing and bonding, and fixing the periphery of the traction band by adopting a triangular needle method for embedding the chest interlining;
8) pulling the lapel, rolling out the lapel to form an everting model, and adopting a manual needle to suture;
wherein, side lines formed by the collar stitching point b, the lapel point d, the folding point g, the front waist point p and the lining length point h are all narrower than the side lines of the front fly of the garment piece by 1.0 cm and are used for cutting the edge of the front fly of the chest lining; the width formed by the lining side point r and the lining length point h is 14 cm, is used for cutting the width of the bottom of the chest interlining, and is 4.0 cm shorter than the bottom edge; the width formed by the side waist point q and the front waist point p is 15 cm, and is used for cutting the width of the waist of the chest piece;
the distance between the breast lining point n and the breast circumference big point of the garment piece is 3.0 cm, the distance between the breast lining point m and the breast lining point n is 3.0 cm, and the breast lining point n is used for setting the armpit province; the distance between the back lining point e and the shoulder width point c is 10 cm, and the back lining point e is used for manufacturing a back shoulder lining; the distance between the back shoulder lining width point f and the shoulder neck point a is 4.5 cm, and the back shoulder lining width point f is used for manufacturing a back shoulder lining; the back shoulder lining and the chest lining are connected with each other;
the chest hole radius calculation method comprises the following steps: bust/10 ÷ 2.
2. The method for cutting woolen cloth female clothes chest interlining according to claim 1, wherein the step of drawing the chest interlining is a shaping heat treatment by a manual ironing method, and the heat-moisture treatment is performed under the rib, on the shoulder and on the front chest fly by a inward returning/pushing method of an iron, so that the chest cup is plump and prominent.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein the cut pieces are shaped by hand ironing, and the cut pieces are pushed in/pushed under the rib, pulled out at the waist, pushed in/pushed in by sewing, and pushed in/pushed in at the chest part.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201910641989.7A CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201910641989.7A CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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| CN110250633A CN110250633A (en) | 2019-09-20 |
| CN110250633B true CN110250633B (en) | 2021-02-23 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201910641989.7A Active CN110250633B (en) | 2019-07-16 | 2019-07-16 | Woolen cloth female chest interlining tailoring method |
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE1930604A1 (en) * | 1969-06-16 | 1970-12-23 | Rathgeber Fa Karl | Press mould for bathing costume breast cups |
| CN202095548U (en) * | 2011-06-30 | 2012-01-04 | 黄新铧 | Disposable breast milk overflow prevention pad |
| CN104585943A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-05-06 | 胡亨有 | Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting |
| CN104605564A (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2015-05-13 | 吴国英 | Chest lining sewing method for suit or overcoat |
| CN106136352A (en) * | 2015-04-23 | 2016-11-23 | 叶正瑜 | A kind of unnotched breast pad of water accepting layer and production method thereof |
-
2019
- 2019-07-16 CN CN201910641989.7A patent/CN110250633B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE1930604A1 (en) * | 1969-06-16 | 1970-12-23 | Rathgeber Fa Karl | Press mould for bathing costume breast cups |
| CN202095548U (en) * | 2011-06-30 | 2012-01-04 | 黄新铧 | Disposable breast milk overflow prevention pad |
| CN104585943A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-05-06 | 胡亨有 | Original number clipping method for clothing equivalent transfer waisting |
| CN104605564A (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2015-05-13 | 吴国英 | Chest lining sewing method for suit or overcoat |
| CN106136352A (en) * | 2015-04-23 | 2016-11-23 | 叶正瑜 | A kind of unnotched breast pad of water accepting layer and production method thereof |
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| CN110250633A (en) | 2019-09-20 |
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Effective date of registration: 20220811 Address after: 314500 in Maoshan City Industrial Park, Puyuan Town, Tongxiang City, Jiaxing City, Zhejiang Province Patentee after: Baifu Garment Technology (Zhejiang) Co., Ltd. Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University |
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